⭐ More Videos That Can Help: Top 5 Furnace Problems and How to Fix Them: th-cam.com/video/T4IWtKy--Vk/w-d-xo.html Furnace Parts and Functions Explained: th-cam.com/video/gN-UIr6824w/w-d-xo.html Top 5 A/C Problems and How to Fix Them: th-cam.com/video/GOXgdnRB840/w-d-xo.html A/C Parts and Functions Explained: th-cam.com/video/pJ8KeJFKDMM/w-d-xo.html Thermostat Not Turning on Heat: th-cam.com/video/054cRskeh5k/w-d-xo.html Blank Thermostat Screen: th-cam.com/video/vi3OJuGfaac/w-d-xo.html Furnace Error Codes Explained: th-cam.com/video/J8Zegm4TClM/w-d-xo.html Furnace Sequence of Operation (important to know): th-cam.com/video/AQD_MedIklI/w-d-xo.html 🛒 If anyone is wondering, the meter I was using in the video is a UEI: amzn.to/2MbSHC2
After watching your video I got on to Amazon and bought a $24 multimeter to run through the troubleshooting with you on my furnace's control board. Everything checked out up to the fuse. Pulled the fuse off of the control board and found that it had blown. Took a trip to Home Depot and spent $4 on a 2-pack of 3AMP fuses, plugged it into the control board and voila... the furnace works again! I'm not gonna count the cost of the multimeter since I've always wanted one (this just caused me to buy one early), but this was a $2 fix! This saved me tons of money! Thanks for the great advice.... YOU ROCK!!!
Excellent video. My Payne Carrier 395AAW036055A furnace stop heating. Strangely enough, it was turning on when called for by th eThermostat but the gas was not being ignited. I though the control board would sense no ignition and shut down, but it wasn't behaving that way. I removed/cleaned & (carefully) replace the ignitor electrode to no avail. Upon replacing the 990-195 ignitor module & 871A electrode, the furnace failed to turn on at all. I was wondering if there was a way to test the 871A ignitor electrode? or 990--195 ignitor module which appear to be an integrated part. I am guessing that I could resistance test theg T1 & T2 terminals of the module as one would test a 2 prong glow plug. Schematic states T2 is a ground (not a transformer as one might think). If not, then I will just have to test the power to the control board per your video. appreciate the info, TIA. HNY BTW
Glad you got your problem "fixed". However, something caused your fuse to fail. The fuse is there to protect the circuit from drawing too many amps/too much power. You may yet still have your original problem...
@@GerminatorTom I totally agree, something caused the fuse to blow and I have absolutely no idea what. My furnace is 13 years old and was installed when my house was built. I've never had a problem with my furnace and never opened up the control board cover panel till now, but when I did, there was dust (not a very thick layer) all over the board. I cleaned it all up before installing the new fuse and my furnace has been running perfectly every day since replacing the fuse. I've had some blackout over the years and I'm not sure if a power surge when the power came back on would cause it to blow. Could it? If or when the original problem presents itself again I'll take a closer look for a cause.
That is fantastic! It always feels good to fix it yourself. ...Just use caution with the bargain priced multimeters. The can cause injury if they fail on you when testing high voltage equipment. :)
Thank you for this video. Saved my day as a DIYer. Went through the steps like you suggested and located my issue easily. My AC was not turning on at all and the blower motor was not running in fan mode either. Thermostat checked out fine. On the board the led lights were off. Following the power from the breakers, the door switch seemed to not connect when pressed. Disconnected the terminal wires and re-plugged. Additionally took off the line and neutral wires from the board tested and re-plugged them. The unit started working. I guess if the led is not turning on, the board is not getting power and this helps to isolate the trouble shooting steps to the connectors before the power connections arrive at the board. Thanks again!
Was your issue intermittent? I’m having something similar. My board shuts off after 30+ minutes. I plan on testing it with my multimeter tomorrow but if I wait about an hr I’ll go back and push the safety switch in and the board will get power and turn on my blower.
Thanks for making this video. You just saved my ass for Canadian Thanksgiving Dinner! I'm an electrician by trade but I haven't worked on furnaces before. It's not really what I'm used to. But, with your video's help, I narrowed down my problem to a bad Control Board. I flipped the thing over and noticed that I have a melted solder on one of the relay pins. I re-soldered that, put everything back together and the blower fan now runs! Thanks to your very informative video, we now have heat! Our local repair truck would have charged me hundreds if not a thousand dollars because of holiday fee. Thats if I could even get one of them to come out today. Cheers, Joe
You're welcome, that's awesome! Happy to hear that you were able to fix the furnace yourself! Thank you for leaving a comment and explaining how it went for you. Stay warm!
I just replaced my thermostat with a nest and had to reconnect the C wire to the nest and the control board in my furnace to power it. When I checked my thermostat it said it had no power. You’re the ONLY video that mentions the door switch, turns out I didn’t put the panel back on properly so the switch wasn’t triggered to send power to the furnace. Thank you so much for the incredible detail in your video, something so simple had been overlooked in every video but yours.
Best technician on TH-cam. Had an issue installing a new thermostat and hrv control. Ton of wires everywhere and that 5A fuse had blown. Would not have caught its location buried in wires, if the voltage was not checked on the transducer wires. Thanks for saving me $$$. The least I could do was write this post and show my graditude.
Last week our furnace started acting up. It would start up initially then shut off a few moments later. I watched a few of your excellent furnace videos and educated myself on the basics then found this great video and was able to determine our control board was bad. It was only putting out 8 or 9 volts to the thermostat instead of 24 volts. I found a new control board at a local appliance shop and was able to install a new board the next day and now we have heat again. I couldn't have done it without the guidance of your excellent videos. These are definitely the best videos on appliance repair that I have found. Thanks Jay and keep up the fantastic work!!!
Thanks a ton for this video, and Furnace Troubleshooting - Top 10 Furnace Problems! As someone new to the northern states i had never worked on a furnace, and ours went out this morning. Your clear and easy to follow directions led me to the 24v DC transformer. I called around and picked one up for $22 locally, and installed it, and it's back up and running! you saved my a ton today by not having to call a repair man. Thanks again for your time you invested in making these videos! Great work!
So I just went through this whole testing procedure and I have power through all of this stuff. The board light is red and not flashing. The AC works fine the heat was short cycling for about a day and now it's not running at all. I really wish I knew more about this or was in a better situation to be able to pay someone to fix this. Unfortunately I am not if anybody has any other tips or tricks to possibly try I would greatly greatly appreciate you. I know it doesn't pay to help out some random guy on TH-cam but you really will have my undying gratitude.
Right after watching this vid, i watched his other vid, top 10 most common problems, and found the issue fairly quick. Thanks for the vids! Saved me hundreds
Just want to compliment you on a wonderful how to video. Obviously you're limited by time and cannot mention every possible problem. I thought you was perfectly clear, easy-to-understand, and professional. Some people are just unhappy and watch these videos so they can pick on the owners. Recently I thought my control board was bad and didn't know that TH-cam existed so I went down and paid incredible amount of money to buy one only to find out that it was not the control board. Thank you.
*Watched this vid and fixed the control board on my furnace which had no red light on and was dead. Turned out to be the transformer getting power in but not out. Thanks a bunch, You are the MAN!* 👍👍
@@johnking4799 *If you replace a furnace transformer and it blows again that means you have a short somewhere on the low voltage side. Mine blew the transformer 3 times before I found a break in one of the wires.*
@@johnking4799Mine is doing the same thing. Now that I got the constant blown transformer issue resolved and the furnace and blower will run forever I can't get 24 volts to the outside until to turn it on. For the time being to keep from having to burn up when it's hot outside I just jammed the contactor closed on the outside unit and use the breaker to turn that unit on and off to cool my house down until I figure out why it's not getting 24v. At least it works manually.
I checked everything in succession including the igniter, the high temperature limit switch, the pressure switch, the inducer motor, and the limit switch on the blower motor on the xr80 trane. Every checked good. The board was 13 months old. I bought another from the same place on Amazon. I put it in and so far its working. Knock on wood.
Thank you!! After getting my flame sensor cleaned off I thought my problem was solved, then I couldn’t get any power to the control board and I couldn’t figure out why. Luckily in the first part of your video you pointed out the door switch!! Pushed that switch and she’s got power. Thanks again!
My heater is 15 years old and suddenly wouldn't start this fall. Had 3 blinking lights on my board. Tested the pressure switch (from your video) and it was good. Bought a new board and 10 minutes later I have heat. Thanks for the videos. All of them!
This guy is a legend. You can tell this guy is if not nicest people to demonstrate and save people big bucks. We have a 20 year old furnace never had issue until we recently had basement walls put up and sanded. I did change the filter before any issues but all the sudden few days later furnace won’t ignite. I have Bryant Plus 80. I checked I have power going into furnace then I checked power coming into ignitor disconnected the ignitor and I don’t see any power going into it. Also my transformer is bit different but don’t see any power going into transformer. Looking like bad board or fuse. My filter was very bad dirty after 2 days of sanding I changed the filter the 4th day just my common sense but got unlucky.
My issue was the door switch had gone bad. My thermostat said it no longer detected power coming from the furnace so I popped open the blower unit door. A service worker had taped over the door safety switch before I owned the home, so it was hidden at the corner of the chassis. I didn't see it and assumed my furnace was so old I didn't have one. I followed the power cables with a voltage finder from the junction box to the control board, leading to uncovering the hidden door switch. The voltage reader didn't detect current on the load wire coming off the switch. After replacing the switch everything works like new! Thank you for posting this video and saving me a service call!
THIS IS SPOT ON. AFTER SEEING THIS, SAID TO MYSELF, 'ITS THE BOARD.' TECH CAME OUT, TOLD HIM THE SYMPTOMS AND HE SAID IT WAS THE BOARD TOO [IT WAS BURNT]. DID NOT WANT TO DEAL WITH THE INSTALL HASSEL AND PART RUN AROUND, BUT PAID A HEAVY SWAP OUT PRICE OF $878. -EX NAVY ELECTRICIAN PO2.
Too bad, I am having issue with mine also, after the batteries when bad on the thermostat, I changed and AC furnace not working at all, a tech came and gave me a quote of 12 hundred, trying to get a second opinion and save few hundreds. thank you.
I'm a furnace tech now thanks.... I mean... from watching your vids, not in real life lol. Fantastic videos. Made lots of furnace repairs because of you. Latest issue, hsi was cracked. Replaced. Still no ignition had no power from control board. Replaced. Done.
I'm near the end of my career in this industry this was a nice video. You did a very nice job explaining some basic electrical norms. How power flows into, and out of some hvac equipment.
@@WordofAdviceTV do you have a video on thermostat wiring that has 5 wires and you only have a 4 wire thermostat on hand for running the furnace heat side ? I have a mobile home Miller furnace with outside Central Air and I'm about to change the thermostat but it has a 5 wire on the wall and I sent for a new one but honey well sent a 4 wire thermostat instead ? The coding is straight forward but I only want to use it for heating , and then I will check the board since it's blinking 4 times ( which according to the company comes back as a bad board ) and by the way I bought the last board since it's obsolete now but I need to get the heat up and running , , the whole story is this ( tries to ignite , Igniter glows and then when the gas valve calls for operation its cuts right off ) also contactor on the AC unit has been changed out so not sure if that caused any issues with the thermostat inside the house or not ) possibly wired incorrect ? Just wanted to double check my thoughts on the board or Wall thermostat ? ) Gas valve opens up when I applied 24 volts externally so I assume that the board is bad ? Thank you for any assistance you may be able to give me on the thermostat issues and the AC unit
@@WordofAdviceTV Hi there. I have a unique problem with my upstairs furnace, located in the attic. The furnace will run like the day it was installed until the air temperature in the attic gets below a certain point. Somewhere around 40 degrees. Then the inducer motor fails to start properly. It will start for a second or two then stops. I was told by a tech that it could be a board issue but he was not sure. He found no problems with any other components. The tech had said to call them out again first thing on a cold morning, which according to local weather, we will be having several cold mornings next week.
A big shout out to the incognito mobile camera person, they're doing a great job! Most videos like this use stationary cameras and it's hard to see what's going on.
Geat video! I did these tests and everything checked out fine. I'm getting 4 flashing lights which indicates a limit switch fault. Both limit switches checked out fine so I thought there might be a problem with the controller. When calling for heat, fan blows but no heat.
This video saved me big bucks. Of course on one of the coldest nights of this winter my furnace gives out. The unit in the video was completely different. I followed the steps and found a 3A fuse burnt. Replaced the fuse and furnace fired right up.
I am having a similar issue with my upstairs furnace. It will run fine until the temperature in the attic gets below a certain point. Somewhere between 35-40 degrees. Then the inducer motor fails to start properly. it will try and run then stop. I have been told it might be a board issue.
Great Video. I have electronics background but not HVAC but like to fix things myself, so this is helpful. I once repaired a bad board that would malfunction only when it got very cold. The heater would quit working when needed it most. Blow hair dryer on the board to warm it up and it started working. Since I knew electrolytic capacitors can cause this with age, I just replaced everyone of them on the board (there were several) and that fixed the problem. You have to obviously have experience with those and soldering but a tip for the extreme DIYer.... (I also repaired my garage door sensors this way that quit working in the cold)
Im a novice electronics guys. Have the assortment of caps, diodes and resistors. Getting ready to do the same. Figure I can't break what is already broke. lol
I just showed this video in our service meeting at our company and there was some concern about suggesting putting a screw in the door switch. I have heard of taping the door switch for testing purposes but never have I heard of putting in a screw. Please make your viewers aware there may be potential to ruin a good door switch by putting a screw in the switch causing an unneeded repair.
Thank you I have done many searches to try to find out if my control board is bad I am getting power in but nothing on the board is receiving power and I thought my board was bad but I could not find the answer on the internet until I came across your video. Thank you for
I'd like to thank you for all your videos and the complete explanation of what, why, and where something is located, how it works/operates, etc. Your vids have saved me time & time again!
Your videos are Awesome! Great detail!! What messed me up was I only have 4 wires to my thermostat. And it was another video the showed me, with 4 wires, and A/C, the blue goes in the yellow slot......Some comment or notes to your videos about that may help some folks.. Again I learned so much from your videos, and I really appreciate them! Thanks!!
This video was very insightful and helpful for a person that doesn't understand the sequence of commands. And are beginners in this field, or just want to learn how to fix your own AC unit 👍
I have the same furnace as you do in the video. My single stage thermostat went bad 2 weeks ago, the internal temp was reading 10 degrees high, so I replaced it with a first generation nest. It worked well for 2 weeks but now my furnace kicks off after 1st stage heating (10) min. At the 10 minute mark the fan ramps up and then the burners shut off. Fan runs high for 30sec then ramps down igniter lights burners light then I hear click and furnace shuts down. I receive 3 red blinks, I think this is a pressure switch error. I then shut off furnace shut off thermostat and furnace will work in first stage again. I have my heat set to 64 or 65 sothat the furnace warms the house but doesn't reach second stage. This has been working to atleast keep the house and wife n kids from freezing. I replaced the flame sensor and pressure switches. Still same error. My local furnace shop gave me a dual pressure switch replacement, low 0.17 and high 0.50. This tripped at second stage and then did not allow me to reboot to use at first stage so I put the old switches back on. I tested the board as you just instructed and did not find any issues. Do u have any ideas? Please help.
Have you fixed the issue? My furnace same as the one in video is having the same burner issue of shutting off after 10 mins now but the light of my board turned to continuous or solid afterward. I also replaced the sensor also without luck fixed it yet. Plan to get an used one from eBay given new one very expensive.
It was the control board. Purchased a new old one on eBay for 359 and badaboom it worked. I tried a professional and they said they wouldn't fix my furnace would only replace it. It's going strong!
I would suggest that you check the electric panel to see if you have a tripped breaker first , sometimes they trip due to surge or just getting turned off and not back on but to double check the electric panel turn the breaker off and back on since it is hard to tell if it's tripped or not , ( looks like it is on but it's tripped in the halfway point ) good luck and let us know how it goes
Don't know if you have this or not, but, a gr8 vid would be the routine maintenance of furnaces, both pre-season and during season, to help prevent problems down the road, much like your "Top 10" vids. What are the common things a homeowner can do to keep their unit running at peak, and then, tie that into WHY that is important (what goes wrong if you don't do that maintenance, tied directly to your previous vids and link that maintenance directly to the various problems you've addressed over the years). Thank you for your time, and all that you do.
Hey Jay, thanks for the great videos! I was having trouble with my furnace, everything was sequencing on correctly but the flames were not coming on. I replaced the control board and it worked great...for about two weeks. For some reason, the igniter is not coming on. I’m within the warrantee so I reached out to the supplier and they gave me a new board but the igniter is not coming on. Is it possible that I damaged the igniter when replacing the board? Is there something else I should be looking at? Thanks again!
Dude, you saved me a service call!!! I was trying to replace the stat, but may have crossed some wires...had black wire going to the b/o terminal. I have a 1 stage forced heat, and 1 stage a/c Armstrong unit). Either way, I was able to run fan only, and heat, but when I switched to ac everything went dead. Reset my breaker, replaced the old stat, all with no avail. Watching this video, I was able to identify the transformer, line in, and the fuse from the transformer to the board (mine was located on the board itself) Sure enough the fuse was blown. I did not have a 3 amp replacement, but I put a 40 amp in there just to get me thru the night. (As it is only 30 degrees outside, so heat is a must)!!! Thank you for the thorough and step by step instructions. They were much needed in my case. I will get that 3 amp fuse in there first thing in the morning.
Glad you got your heat back! But I would be careful about putting in a 40 amp fuse instead of a 3 amp fuse. 3 amp fuses are there to interrupt the circuit if there is a short somewhere. If you actually have a short in the system, the 40 amp fuse will not trip. Which could melt wires or in the worst case start a fire. So I would definitely keep an eye on the furnace/ac and the wiring. If you smell any electrical or burnt smells, turn it off right away until you can find the short.
@@WordofAdviceTV Thank you! yes, I caused the fuse burn because of the mis-wiring of the replacement thermostat. I will get out there later today to get the proper fuse rating, the 40 amp was an emergency move due to the snow and dropping temps overnight I found your video 2a in the morning and was able to get the heat going for my family!
Thank you very much for your informative instruction videos. It is a very selfless thing for you to teach us the tricks of your trade. I highly respect this individual and I have learned quite a few tricks from him. I highly recommend checking out his other videos.
This is my first time tuning a into your channel and by far I. Enjoy, I trust everything, you say a bunch of help. Because unfortunately, here in Texas, there's a lot of guys that are just plain old crooks. I don't want to fix anything you want. Just replace so I would like to. Dad's thing is myself, so thanks to you i'm gonna stay tuned. Thanks, keep it up
Thank you, I have power going into my board but nothing coming out on the Y and C. I checked your other videos and it’s definitely my control board. I ordered a new board off eBay for $95. I have electronics experience so it should be a piece of cake reconnecting the harness and wiring
Great vids. Ac compressor not kicking on Capacitor good Circuit board good Magnetic switch good Compressor good The fan works outside but compressor won’t kick on there is a slight buzz every once in a while as I manually hold the magnetic switch down but that’s it I have checked all the above using your videos. Great job you naturally explain things very well Anything else I can check or do before I call repairman
So with the contactor plunger pushed in, the condenser fan motor starts but the compressor only hums like it tries to start? That sounds like a dead capacitor. But if you checked it and it's good.. And the unit is getting 240v, then that may mean that the compressor is seized up. You can try putting in a hard start kit and that may get it to go. I have a video on how to install one if you need it.
Thanks for the GREAT videos. My furnace (Lennox G40UH-60C-110-03 with 32M8801 control board) stopped today,. The Inducer motor doesn't even start. Used your troubleshooting in a previous video, I tested the connection to the thermostat. YWRGC screws on the control board, Tested W-C 26V, R-C 27V = no issue with thermostat Inducer motor not receiving voltage at connectors near motor, nor at/from board. No visible inducer motor capacitor to check. Inducer bearings rotate freely, no indications of damage, noise, smells, friction, Rust, etc. Flame sensor cleaned, and the filter is fairly new. AC works There are lights on the the board (#1 off, #2 slow flashing), so there's power on the board. It looks to me like the control board, unless there's a signal from the pressure switch sending bad data? Any tips on replacing the control board? Thanks again for the GREAT troubleshooting videos.
You did a really good job with the troubleshooting! Also with typing out what you did. Thank you for all the details! If you have 26v between R-C, the control board should be sending 120v to the inducer motor. So I would agree with you, the board is very likely to be bad. About the pressure switch.. There is one possibility that rarely happens. Once in a while the pressure switch will get stuck in the closed position. Many furnaces will sense that the pressure switch is closed without the inducer motor running and will either not start or just the inducer or blower motor will run. To check it, just unplug the wires from the pressure switch and check for continuity or resistance between the two terminals. It should be O/L. If there is continuity though, then that means your pressure switch is stuck closed. You can try blowing/sucking into the little hose to try to free it up. Do this carefully (not too much pressure) since the switches need very little pressure to open and close. Otherwise you can rupture the diaphragm As for replacing the control board, it is usually very easy. Label all the wires or take a picture of them. Or if you can, you can take the old board off with all the wires on it, put in the new board and just transfer one wire at a time. If the new board will be slightly different then the old board, it will usually come with instructions on where the wires should go. Hope that helps!
@@WordofAdviceTV Well, looks like it may not have been the board. I replaced the board, still nothing. When I unplugged even 1 of the pressure switch contacts, the inducer motor starts for a while, the glow plug glows, no burner ignition, glow plug turns off, then the inducer motor stops and alternating red/green lights flash on the board. No heating cycle. Resistance between the connectors shows 1.1
Once I turned on the gas.... I still have to disconnect one lead from the pressure switch in order for it to start. And it will shut off after running for several minutes. To restart, I need to turn the switch off for the furnace, turn it on, then disconnect the pressure switch, and it starts for a while.
@@deanharder9083 Perhaps your pressure switch is stuck in the closed position. By taking the wire off you are tricking the board into thinking that it is open. That's what it sounds like to me anyway.. A little hard to say without being there. I would replace the pressure switch/s. Although it seems like you may have more then one problem going on there. So what code does the board blink after it runs for several minutes?
Hey Jay, I'm sorry to bother you but I have been watching most of your videos on furnace problems. First my problem is my furnace kicks in then when it is time for the blower to kick in it doesn’t. I have checked my 120 AC volts going to and out of my circuit board and it looks good. I am not able to get 24 DC volts anywhere. I have also connected main power from my door switch to my motor and the motor and does not want to turn on. Sorry I failed to tell you that there was a burning smell in the house before this happened. I have noticed on my furnace which is about 4 years old. My furnace is a Napoleon furnace by the way. It is also a two-stage high efficiency unit. If you can help me in anyway I would really appreciate it. I want to thank you so much for all your videos you have made they have saved me so much money already. You are a great teacher and for sure very knowledgeable on many subjects. Thanks again for your expertise.
Sorry to hear about your situation my friend and I unfortunately have to break the bad news to you. If you have 120v going to the blower motor but it does not turn on, then the motor is bad. I would replace the blower motor and the capacitor for it.
This video helped me a lot was not getting power to my thermostat found no power coming from transformer on furnace board cleaned the connections and started right up.
Great videao, esy to follow and understand what you are doing. Appreciate for producing all different videos on Furnace diagnosis and repairing . God Bless you and your family.
Hey Jay, I'm sorry to bother you but I have been watching most of your videos on furnace problems. I have a problem with my furnace when The burners Finish and when it is time for the blower to kick in it doesn’t. I have checked my 120 AC volts going to and out of my circuit board and it looks good. I am not able to get 24 DC volts anywhere. I have also connected main power from my door switch to my motor and the motor and does not want to turn on. One important thing I haven’t mentioned is before, I have noticed a burning smell in the house before all of this started. My furnace is a Napoleon furnace by the way. It is also a two-stage high efficiency unit. If you can help me in anyway I would really appreciate it. I want to thank you so much for all your videos you have made they have saved me so much money already. You are a great teacher and for sure very knowledgeable on many subjects. Thanks again for your expertise.
Many ways to troubleshoot control boards, continuity is something to practice to. Continuity. More technicians need to learn the sequence of operations, check limits and ohm wires before they condemn a board. Found a bad wire sending intermittent signals ohming out. I like watching ac service tech and gray furnace man. Also Jose from Lennox great 👍
I agree! There is a lot more to it. The furnace has A LOT of variables and different kind of problems, different ways of troubleshooting. It would be near impossible to try to cover it all in a series of videos. Lots of truth to the saying, "a technician never stops learning". Sure this video might have only covered a fraction of it but it's a fraction that many people don't know :) AC servicetech and Gray Furnaceman are great channels!
High there. I use to have my own business, and I still on the side do fix furnaces yet to. Mainly because I still like working watch the people call me so I feel obligated to help them fix there problem. so I just wanted to let you know your description how to troubleshoot to find out what the problem is, and so it can be fixed. You are right on as to trouble shot in finding the problem, by process alimination. Awesome job, I enjoyed watching video. You most definitely know what you're talkin about, do I give you praise I'm proud of you great job. God bless, and keep up the great work.
Hi, thanks awesome demo, it was informative and great way to educate people which is great! Janitrol furnace 5 burners with clean burner, clean sensor, and a good clean healthy ignitor,but it does not ignit! Not sure what to check next Thanks again for amazing experience you have been sharing I do get power to transformer and out about 26 volts
Good video man I do service and sometimes I'll look in so many wrong places before I conform it's a bad board it's not the most common thing but it happens
All your videos are very helpful. Replaced flame sensor. Furnace is working now but sometimes it stops with rapid red code. When I restarted it works again for a while but will stop working with rapid red again.
I started with vac switch code... checked switch and inducer motor and they were fine. Before i got a new board i removed old one completely and cleaned it with soft brush front and back and reinstalled. That fixed it!! All the dust blowing thru there over 25 yrs (yes 25 yrs) must have caused an intermittent short. Goodman unit. Tech woulda sold me a whole new furnace. Not this time, sukkas 😎 clean yer board!
This was my issue. Everything was fine but nothing was still cutting on, it was that black switch came loose at some point and it needed to be press down to get the board to work. Thanks so much!!!!
you are better than the best!!! Ive learned a lot watching your video and appreciate you being as thorough as you are. I think I can handle this one( Im a handywoman around my own home)..thanks a bunch
Word of Advice, you have been a life saver for many of my problems. I thank you for all your videos. Most of everyone's problems are different but you manage to touch on the rare situations like in my case. Thank you!
I am trying to troubleshoot HVAC issue - operated normally overnight, next morning no A/C. I believe I have eliminated thermostat and board root cause. With contactor coil wires removed, board reads 24-28 volts as expected when thermostat calls for cooling (blower, cooling to common). With contactor wires replaced, the voltages drop to 7-9 volts. No fuse blowing or circuits tripping. Your videos have been amazingly straightforward to follow. I was hoping you could point me in a direction for this voltage drop issue. Thank you very much!
ADDING: Removed the Homer XMC0-231-EBBC. It is sealed and looks good. However, resistance on coil is 0.5 ohms (zero-point-five). This might explain why the voltage from the step-down transformer falls from ~28 volts w/o contactor wired to
Hi, first of all thanks for your video. In my case furnace starts but stops often and the house is cold. We even put it to 90 and it stays 60 degrees in the house.
Such a good channel, I am a few months into my hvac program, and I feel like I’ve learned more from a few hours watching your videos then the teacher has taught to this point, don’t know if that’s a good or bad thing, but I’ll continue to watch your videos.
Excellent job!! You're concise and to the point and explain it well. I have watched a couple of your videos and have learned a lot more than I did. Be glad I'm not your neighbor.I'd try like heck not to bother you,but I KNOW me! Ciao
Hi J , Thank you for your videos , My furnace is carrier weather Maker 8000 ts has a little issue is my igniter has no voltage . So it can not turn on blamable The only thing I need my furnace work is using my lighter to light it up to keep warn in this winter time . However , I checked my control board has received 24 voltage but my igniter has no voltage . I checked a limited switch ( both legs have no voltage ) also . If you don't mind , please giving me an advise should I replace a limit switch only or I have to replace a new furnace control board ( too expense ) ?
Your video is very helpful. Helped me troubleshoot why my furnace had stopped driving 24v to the EcoBee thermostat. I found the problem in the wire that comes from the 24v end of the transformer to the molex connector, and ultimately drives the Rc line. When I press against the wire in the molex connector, the thing starts working again. Now I am wondering whether to replace that wire, or the molex connector.
I've watched a lot of your videos also like many others. I really enjoyed everyone of them. They're done really well and easy to follow. I really do appreciate your the way you're not like a lot like many others wanting a fee, but if i recognize you in a restaurant, I will pay your food bill. Every single thing I've seen you demonstrate was on point! But i have an old unit without fuses and want to know where i start with my issue on my AC unit... I've checked the Capacitor, Contactor, Fan Motor, condenser, basically everything on the outside and now i'm stumped........ I believe the problem has to be a wire connection. Where should i start??? Thanks in advance .
Hey Marice! Thank you, I'm glad you like my videos! Do you by chance have a meter you can read voltages with? That would make troubleshooting easier. Also, have you watched this video yet? th-cam.com/video/wzAA4dlp_70/w-d-xo.html that video should help you narrow down the problem
⭐ More Videos That Can Help:
Top 5 Furnace Problems and How to Fix Them:
th-cam.com/video/T4IWtKy--Vk/w-d-xo.html
Furnace Parts and Functions Explained:
th-cam.com/video/gN-UIr6824w/w-d-xo.html
Top 5 A/C Problems and How to Fix Them:
th-cam.com/video/GOXgdnRB840/w-d-xo.html
A/C Parts and Functions Explained:
th-cam.com/video/pJ8KeJFKDMM/w-d-xo.html
Thermostat Not Turning on Heat:
th-cam.com/video/054cRskeh5k/w-d-xo.html
Blank Thermostat Screen:
th-cam.com/video/vi3OJuGfaac/w-d-xo.html
Furnace Error Codes Explained:
th-cam.com/video/J8Zegm4TClM/w-d-xo.html
Furnace Sequence of Operation (important to know):
th-cam.com/video/AQD_MedIklI/w-d-xo.html
🛒 If anyone is wondering, the meter I was using in the video is a UEI:
amzn.to/2MbSHC2
After watching your video I got on to Amazon and bought a $24 multimeter to run through the troubleshooting with you on my furnace's control board. Everything checked out up to the fuse. Pulled the fuse off of the control board and found that it had blown. Took a trip to Home Depot and spent $4 on a 2-pack of 3AMP fuses, plugged it into the control board and voila... the furnace works again! I'm not gonna count the cost of the multimeter since I've always wanted one (this just caused me to buy one early), but this was a $2 fix! This saved me tons of money! Thanks for the great advice.... YOU ROCK!!!
Awesome! That's great to hear! I'm glad I was able to help and thank you for coming back to share how you fixed it. Stay warm ;)
Excellent video. My Payne Carrier 395AAW036055A furnace stop heating. Strangely enough, it was turning on when called for by th eThermostat but the gas was not being ignited. I though the control board would sense no ignition and shut down, but it wasn't behaving that way. I removed/cleaned & (carefully) replace the ignitor electrode to no avail. Upon replacing the 990-195 ignitor module & 871A electrode, the furnace failed to turn on at all. I was wondering if there was a way to test the 871A ignitor electrode? or 990--195 ignitor module which appear to be an integrated part. I am guessing that I could resistance test theg T1 & T2 terminals of the module as one would test a 2 prong glow plug. Schematic states T2 is a ground (not a transformer as one might think). If not, then I will just have to test the power to the control board per your video. appreciate the info, TIA. HNY BTW
Glad you got your problem "fixed". However, something caused your fuse to fail. The fuse is there to protect the circuit from drawing too many amps/too much power. You may yet still have your original problem...
@@GerminatorTom I totally agree, something caused the fuse to blow and I have absolutely no idea what. My furnace is 13 years old and was installed when my house was built. I've never had a problem with my furnace and never opened up the control board cover panel till now, but when I did, there was dust (not a very thick layer) all over the board. I cleaned it all up before installing the new fuse and my furnace has been running perfectly every day since replacing the fuse. I've had some blackout over the years and I'm not sure if a power surge when the power came back on would cause it to blow. Could it? If or when the original problem presents itself again I'll take a closer look for a cause.
That is fantastic! It always feels good to fix it yourself. ...Just use caution with the bargain priced multimeters. The can cause injury if they fail on you when testing high voltage equipment. :)
Thank you for this video. Saved my day as a DIYer. Went through the steps like you suggested and located my issue easily. My AC was not turning on at all and the blower motor was not running in fan mode either. Thermostat checked out fine. On the board the led lights were off. Following the power from the breakers, the door switch seemed to not connect when pressed. Disconnected the terminal wires and re-plugged. Additionally took off the line and neutral wires from the board tested and re-plugged them. The unit started working. I guess if the led is not turning on, the board is not getting power and this helps to isolate the trouble shooting steps to the connectors before the power connections arrive at the board. Thanks again!
Was your issue intermittent? I’m having something similar. My board shuts off after 30+ minutes. I plan on testing it with my multimeter tomorrow but if I wait about an hr I’ll go back and push the safety switch in and the board will get power and turn on my blower.
CONCISE, I am now on my way to the attic. Simple, fast CLEAR explanation. no BS.. Thanks.
Thanks for making this video. You just saved my ass for Canadian Thanksgiving Dinner! I'm an electrician by trade but I haven't worked on furnaces before. It's not really what I'm used to. But, with your video's help, I narrowed down my problem to a bad Control Board. I flipped the thing over and noticed that I have a melted solder on one of the relay pins. I re-soldered that, put everything back together and the blower fan now runs!
Thanks to your very informative video, we now have heat! Our local repair truck would have charged me hundreds if not a thousand dollars because of holiday fee. Thats if I could even get one of them to come out today.
Cheers,
Joe
You're welcome, that's awesome! Happy to hear that you were able to fix the furnace yourself! Thank you for leaving a comment and explaining how it went for you. Stay warm!
I just replaced my thermostat with a nest and had to reconnect the C wire to the nest and the control board in my furnace to power it. When I checked my thermostat it said it had no power. You’re the ONLY video that mentions the door switch, turns out I didn’t put the panel back on properly so the switch wasn’t triggered to send power to the furnace. Thank you so much for the incredible detail in your video, something so simple had been overlooked in every video but yours.
Best technician on TH-cam. Had an issue installing a new thermostat and hrv control. Ton of wires everywhere and that 5A fuse had blown. Would not have caught its location buried in wires, if the voltage was not checked on the transducer wires. Thanks for saving me $$$. The least I could do was write this post and show my graditude.
Every once in a while I'll come on and check out the " My furnace isn't lighting" video's, yours is one of the better ones. Thanks so much !
Thanks Jack! Glad you liked the video :)
Last week our furnace started acting up. It would start up initially then shut off a few moments later. I watched a few of your excellent furnace videos and educated myself on the basics then found this great video and was able to determine our control board was bad. It was only putting out 8 or 9 volts to the thermostat instead of 24 volts. I found a new control board at a local appliance shop and was able to install a new board the next day and now we have heat again. I couldn't have done it without the guidance of your excellent videos. These are definitely the best videos on appliance repair that I have found. Thanks Jay and keep up the fantastic work!!!
Awesome! Thank you for sharing your success story! Happy to hear that my videos were helpful :) Stay warm!
Thanks a ton for this video, and Furnace Troubleshooting - Top 10 Furnace Problems! As someone new to the northern states i had never worked on a furnace, and ours went out this morning. Your clear and easy to follow directions led me to the 24v DC transformer. I called around and picked one up for $22 locally, and installed it, and it's back up and running! you saved my a ton today by not having to call a repair man. Thanks again for your time you invested in making these videos! Great work!
You're very welcome Rob! Glad to hear you got it figured out and were able to fix it quick. Stay warm! ;)
So I just went through this whole testing procedure and I have power through all of this stuff. The board light is red and not flashing. The AC works fine the heat was short cycling for about a day and now it's not running at all. I really wish I knew more about this or was in a better situation to be able to pay someone to fix this. Unfortunately I am not if anybody has any other tips or tricks to possibly try I would greatly greatly appreciate you. I know it doesn't pay to help out some random guy on TH-cam but you really will have my undying gratitude.
Right after watching this vid, i watched his other vid, top 10 most common problems, and found the issue fairly quick. Thanks for the vids! Saved me hundreds
What was the problem don’t leave us hanging like that
Just want to compliment you on a wonderful how to video. Obviously you're limited by time and cannot mention every possible problem. I thought you was perfectly clear, easy-to-understand, and professional. Some people are just unhappy and watch these videos so they can pick on the owners.
Recently I thought my control board was bad and didn't know that TH-cam existed so I went down and paid incredible amount of money to buy one only to find out that it was not the control board. Thank you.
L
*Watched this vid and fixed the control board on my furnace which had no red light on and was dead. Turned out to be the transformer getting power in but not out. Thanks a bunch, You are the MAN!* 👍👍
MY BOARDS HAS NO LIGHT AND GOT ANOTHER BOARD NO LIGHT EITHER WONDERING IF ITS TRANSFORMER BUT HAS BEEN REPLACED ALREADY?
@@johnking4799 *If you replace a furnace transformer and it blows again that means you have a short somewhere on the low voltage side. Mine blew the transformer 3 times before I found a break in one of the wires.*
Big Texas I think it’s good blower works and heat works just not sending power to outside unit no flashing lite on board train unit
@@johnking4799Mine is doing the same thing. Now that I got the constant blown transformer issue resolved and the furnace and blower will run forever I can't get 24 volts to the outside until to turn it on. For the time being to keep from having to burn up when it's hot outside I just jammed the contactor closed on the outside unit and use the breaker to turn that unit on and off to cool my house down until I figure out why it's not getting 24v. At least it works manually.
Big Texas I thought about that contact too on outside unit just not sure why no lite on my control box
Very compact, efficient instruction. This man is a legend!
I checked everything in succession including the igniter, the high temperature limit switch, the pressure switch, the inducer motor, and the limit switch on the blower motor on the xr80 trane. Every checked good. The board was 13 months old. I bought another from the same place on Amazon. I put it in and so far its working. Knock on wood.
Thank you!! After getting my flame sensor cleaned off I thought my problem was solved, then I couldn’t get any power to the control board and I couldn’t figure out why. Luckily in the first part of your video you pointed out the door switch!! Pushed that switch and she’s got power. Thanks again!
My heater is 15 years old and suddenly wouldn't start this fall. Had 3 blinking lights on my board. Tested the pressure switch (from your video) and it was good. Bought a new board and 10 minutes later I have heat. Thanks for the videos. All of them!
You always explain things down the the tee with great explanation. Thanks for your time doing these. You Rock J.
This guy is a legend. You can tell this guy is if not nicest people to demonstrate and save people big bucks. We have a 20 year old furnace never had issue until we recently had basement walls put up and sanded. I did change the filter before any issues but all the sudden few days later furnace won’t ignite. I have Bryant Plus 80. I checked I have power going into furnace then I checked power coming into ignitor disconnected the ignitor and I don’t see any power going into it. Also my transformer is bit different but don’t see any power going into transformer. Looking like bad board or fuse. My filter was very bad dirty after 2 days of sanding I changed the filter the 4th day just my common sense but got unlucky.
I have the same furnace, same issue. Did the control board swap work?
Jay, thank you so much for investing your time teaching people. You are a great teacher.
You're welcome! Thank you for the nice comment!
My issue was the door switch had gone bad. My thermostat said it no longer detected power coming from the furnace so I popped open the blower unit door. A service worker had taped over the door safety switch before I owned the home, so it was hidden at the corner of the chassis. I didn't see it and assumed my furnace was so old I didn't have one. I followed the power cables with a voltage finder from the junction box to the control board, leading to uncovering the hidden door switch. The voltage reader didn't detect current on the load wire coming off the switch. After replacing the switch everything works like new! Thank you for posting this video and saving me a service call!
THIS IS SPOT ON. AFTER SEEING THIS, SAID TO MYSELF, 'ITS THE BOARD.' TECH CAME OUT, TOLD HIM THE SYMPTOMS AND HE SAID IT WAS THE BOARD TOO [IT WAS BURNT]. DID NOT WANT TO DEAL WITH THE INSTALL HASSEL AND PART RUN AROUND, BUT PAID A HEAVY SWAP OUT PRICE OF $878.
-EX NAVY ELECTRICIAN PO2.
Too bad, I am having issue with mine also, after the batteries when bad on the thermostat, I changed and AC furnace not working at all, a tech came and gave me a quote of 12 hundred, trying to get a second opinion and save few hundreds. thank you.
I'm a furnace tech now thanks.... I mean... from watching your vids, not in real life lol. Fantastic videos. Made lots of furnace repairs because of you. Latest issue, hsi was cracked. Replaced. Still no ignition had no power from control board. Replaced. Done.
I'm near the end of my career in this industry this was a nice video. You did a very nice job explaining some basic electrical norms. How power flows into, and out of some hvac equipment.
Thank you! It's an honor to hear that from a veteran in the field :)
@@WordofAdviceTV do you have a video on thermostat wiring that has 5 wires and you only have a 4 wire thermostat on hand for running the furnace heat side ? I have a mobile home Miller furnace with outside Central Air and I'm about to change the thermostat but it has a 5 wire on the wall and I sent for a new one but honey well sent a 4 wire thermostat instead ? The coding is straight forward but I only want to use it for heating , and then I will check the board since it's blinking 4 times ( which according to the company comes back as a bad board ) and by the way I bought the last board since it's obsolete now but I need to get the heat up and running , , the whole story is this ( tries to ignite , Igniter glows and then when the gas valve calls for operation its cuts right off ) also contactor on the AC unit has been changed out so not sure if that caused any issues with the thermostat inside the house or not ) possibly wired incorrect ? Just wanted to double check my thoughts on the board or Wall thermostat ? ) Gas valve opens up when I applied 24 volts externally so I assume that the board is bad ? Thank you for any assistance you may be able to give me on the thermostat issues and the AC unit
@@WordofAdviceTV Hi there. I have a unique problem with my upstairs furnace, located in the attic. The furnace will run like the day it was installed until the air temperature in the attic gets below a certain point. Somewhere around 40 degrees. Then the inducer motor fails to start properly. It will start for a second or two then stops. I was told by a tech that it could be a board issue but he was not sure. He found no problems with any other components. The tech had said to call them out again first thing on a cold morning, which according to local weather, we will be having several cold mornings next week.
@@Chris2745100 did the tech get you fixed up? Interested to know the fix
@@tannerharkey It was a bad board. Lasted 27 years. Furnace itself is fine.
You make messing with electricity a lot less scary. But i have no clue other than what i learn from awesome videos like this. Thumbs up.
Wow! You are not only highly competent, but also a good communicator! That's a highly valuable combination. Congrats!
Hy😂d
2d2ua t
A big shout out to the incognito mobile camera person, they're doing a great job! Most videos like this use stationary cameras and it's hard to see what's going on.
A word to people that may not have the same color wires, electricity doesn't know colors.
Good explain , I have 6yrs doing this for a company and still learning from other guys.
Geat video! I did these tests and everything checked out fine. I'm getting 4 flashing lights which indicates a limit switch fault. Both limit switches checked out fine so I thought there might be a problem with the controller. When calling for heat, fan blows but no heat.
Thank you! So grateful you posted this video. Fuse was blown and I will call an electrician to find out why.
You're welcome! Hope the repair won't be spendy!
This video saved me big bucks. Of course on one of the coldest nights of this winter my furnace gives out. The unit in the video was completely different. I followed the steps and found a 3A fuse burnt. Replaced the fuse and furnace fired right up.
I am having a similar issue with my upstairs furnace. It will run fine until the temperature in the attic gets below a certain point. Somewhere between 35-40 degrees. Then the inducer motor fails to start properly. it will try and run then stop. I have been told it might be a board issue.
@@Chris2745100 have you checked your air filter?
@@mesureshg you mean the one that you normally find in the celling? Just had it replaced in October; should still be good for another month.
@@Chris2745100 sounds like a run capacitor, but in three months I'm sure you have already figured out what the problem was ;)
@@joeb4117 Yes it was the board.
I fixed my furnace watching your guide. Thank you
I just started in the hvac field and your videos are very helpful, thank you!
Good luck man! It's a good field. Glad you find the videos helpful!
Great Video. I have electronics background but not HVAC but like to fix things myself, so this is helpful.
I once repaired a bad board that would malfunction only when it got very cold. The heater would quit working when needed it most. Blow hair dryer on the board to warm it up and it started working. Since I knew electrolytic capacitors can cause this with age, I just replaced everyone of them on the board (there were several) and that fixed the problem. You have to obviously have experience with those and soldering but a tip for the extreme DIYer.... (I also repaired my garage door sensors this way that quit working in the cold)
Im a novice electronics guys. Have the assortment of caps, diodes and resistors. Getting ready to do the same. Figure I can't break what is already broke. lol
I just showed this video in our service meeting at our company and there was some concern about suggesting putting a screw in the door switch. I have heard of taping the door switch for testing purposes but never have I heard of putting in a screw. Please make your viewers aware there may be potential to ruin a good door switch by putting a screw in the switch causing an unneeded repair.
Thank you I have done many searches to try to find out if my control board is bad I am getting power in but nothing on the board is receiving power and I thought my board was bad but I could not find the answer on the internet until I came across your video. Thank you for
Great thorough explanation to diagnose a bad board. You can apply that principle to other electronics as well. Thanks man!
If this guy keeps explaining things so well he will be the only one in HVAC service making money... good thing I install as well as service...
Lol, thanks Davlin
What an amazingly detailed video! Great Job!
Your easy to follow and understand to me. Your voice, tone , and speed is examplry. Keep up the videos. I'll watch them.
Thanks Daniel! Glad you found the videos helpful :)
Always, always good explanation man...thank you so much for doing this and help us to learn more in every single nice video
Very well narrated and described with possible fault areas and how to check it!
Great video, and to the point. Very well presented.
Blown a fuse during thermostat replacement. This helped me figure out how to deal with it. Thanks!
Yet another great video! Great job on explaining everything. You’re saving people like me a ton of cold hard cash.
That's what I like to hear! :) Glad I could help, thanks for watching and commenting!
@@WordofAdviceTV l
I'd like to thank you for all your videos and the complete explanation of what, why, and where something is located, how it works/operates, etc. Your vids have saved me time & time again!
Excellent and to the point.
Your videos are Awesome! Great detail!! What messed me up was I only have 4 wires to my thermostat. And it was another video the showed me, with 4 wires, and A/C, the blue goes in the yellow slot......Some comment or notes to your videos about that may help some folks.. Again I learned so much from your videos, and I really appreciate them! Thanks!!
Hi, I turned the furnace’s switch OFF then ON and didn’t see the thermostat’s display blinking. Does that mean the control board is bad? Thanks.
I have the same issue
@@alexquiton7279 CALL A PRO. Both of you.
This video was very insightful and helpful for a person that doesn't understand the sequence of commands. And are beginners in this field, or just want to learn how to fix your own AC unit 👍
I have the same furnace as you do in the video. My single stage thermostat went bad 2 weeks ago, the internal temp was reading 10 degrees high, so I replaced it with a first generation nest. It worked well for 2 weeks but now my furnace kicks off after 1st stage heating (10) min. At the 10 minute mark the fan ramps up and then the burners shut off. Fan runs high for 30sec then ramps down igniter lights burners light then I hear click and furnace shuts down. I receive 3 red blinks, I think this is a pressure switch error. I then shut off furnace shut off thermostat and furnace will work in first stage again. I have my heat set to 64 or 65 sothat the furnace warms the house but doesn't reach second stage. This has been working to atleast keep the house and wife n kids from freezing. I replaced the flame sensor and pressure switches. Still same error. My local furnace shop gave me a dual pressure switch replacement, low 0.17 and high 0.50. This tripped at second stage and then did not allow me to reboot to use at first stage so I put the old switches back on. I tested the board as you just instructed and did not find any issues. Do u have any ideas? Please help.
Have you fixed the issue?
My furnace same as the one in video is having the same burner issue of shutting off after 10 mins now but the light of my board turned to continuous or solid afterward. I also replaced the sensor also without luck fixed it yet. Plan to get an used one from eBay given new one very expensive.
Hire a professional
It was the control board. Purchased a new old one on eBay for 359 and badaboom it worked. I tried a professional and they said they wouldn't fix my furnace would only replace it. It's going strong!
Thank You Sir!!!! Replaced the fuse, but did not know about the "Door Switch" Thanks again, much appreciated!!
I have no power on my board, could this possibly be a relay?
I would suggest that you check the electric panel to see if you have a tripped breaker first , sometimes they trip due to surge or just getting turned off and not back on but to double check the electric panel turn the breaker off and back on since it is hard to tell if it's tripped or not , ( looks like it is on but it's tripped in the halfway point ) good luck and let us know how it goes
Furnace went on Christmas eve, your step by step instructions saved my holidays and my wallet!! Спасибо большое!!
Great job!
Don't know if you have this or not, but, a gr8 vid would be the routine maintenance of furnaces, both pre-season and during season, to help prevent problems down the road, much like your "Top 10" vids. What are the common things a homeowner can do to keep their unit running at peak, and then, tie that into WHY that is important (what goes wrong if you don't do that maintenance, tied directly to your previous vids and link that maintenance directly to the various problems you've addressed over the years). Thank you for your time, and all that you do.
Hey Jay, thanks for the great videos! I was having trouble with my furnace, everything was sequencing on correctly but the flames were not coming on. I replaced the control board and it worked great...for about two weeks. For some reason, the igniter is not coming on. I’m within the warrantee so I reached out to the supplier and they gave me a new board but the igniter is not coming on. Is it possible that I damaged the igniter when replacing the board? Is there something else I should be looking at? Thanks again!
Thank you for your time and I wish you and your family a safe day and good evening
Hmm, not quite as easy as advertised, for me anyway. Let me know when the house next to yours goes up for sale. My HVAC troubles will be over.
Dude, you saved me a service call!!! I was trying to replace the stat, but may have crossed some wires...had black wire going to the b/o terminal. I have a 1 stage forced heat, and 1 stage a/c Armstrong unit). Either way, I was able to run fan only, and heat, but when I switched to ac everything went dead. Reset my breaker, replaced the old stat, all with no avail. Watching this video, I was able to identify the transformer, line in, and the fuse from the transformer to the board (mine was located on the board itself)
Sure enough the fuse was blown. I did not have a 3 amp replacement, but I put a 40 amp in there just to get me thru the night. (As it is only 30 degrees outside, so heat is a must)!!! Thank you for the thorough and step by step instructions. They were much needed in my case. I will get that 3 amp fuse in there first thing in the morning.
Glad you got your heat back! But I would be careful about putting in a 40 amp fuse instead of a 3 amp fuse. 3 amp fuses are there to interrupt the circuit if there is a short somewhere. If you actually have a short in the system, the 40 amp fuse will not trip. Which could melt wires or in the worst case start a fire. So I would definitely keep an eye on the furnace/ac and the wiring. If you smell any electrical or burnt smells, turn it off right away until you can find the short.
@@WordofAdviceTV Thank you! yes, I caused the fuse burn because of the mis-wiring of the replacement thermostat. I will get out there later today to get the proper fuse rating, the 40 amp was an emergency move due to the snow and dropping temps overnight I found your video 2a in the morning and was able to get the heat going for my family!
@@DeShonClark Oh okay! You knew what caused the short. I missed that part. In that case, that was a good idea! :) Glad I was able to help, stay warm!
Thank you very much for your informative instruction videos. It is a very selfless thing for you to teach us the tricks of your trade. I highly respect this individual and I have learned quite a few tricks from him. I highly recommend checking out his other videos.
This is my first time tuning a into your channel and by far I. Enjoy, I trust everything, you say a bunch of help. Because unfortunately, here in Texas, there's a lot of guys that are just plain old crooks. I don't want to fix anything you want. Just replace so I would like to. Dad's thing is myself, so thanks to you i'm gonna stay tuned. Thanks, keep it up
Thank you, I have power going into my board but nothing coming out on the Y and C. I checked your other videos and it’s definitely my control board. I ordered a new board off eBay for $95. I have electronics experience so it should be a piece of cake reconnecting the harness and wiring
Great vids. Ac compressor not kicking on
Capacitor good
Circuit board good
Magnetic switch good
Compressor good
The fan works outside but compressor won’t kick on there is a slight buzz every once in a while as I manually hold the magnetic switch down but that’s it I have checked all the above using your videos. Great job you naturally explain things very well Anything else I can check or do before I call repairman
So with the contactor plunger pushed in, the condenser fan motor starts but the compressor only hums like it tries to start? That sounds like a dead capacitor. But if you checked it and it's good.. And the unit is getting 240v, then that may mean that the compressor is seized up. You can try putting in a hard start kit and that may get it to go. I have a video on how to install one if you need it.
Good job explaining the board in a unite old country sure needs this thanks
Thank You for making a detailed video and explaining each step very clearly
Thanks for the GREAT videos.
My furnace (Lennox G40UH-60C-110-03 with 32M8801 control board) stopped today,. The Inducer motor doesn't even start. Used your troubleshooting in a previous video, I tested the connection to the thermostat. YWRGC screws on the control board, Tested W-C 26V, R-C 27V = no issue with thermostat
Inducer motor not receiving voltage at connectors near motor, nor at/from board. No visible inducer motor capacitor to check.
Inducer bearings rotate freely, no indications of damage, noise, smells, friction, Rust, etc. Flame sensor cleaned, and the filter is fairly new.
AC works
There are lights on the the board (#1 off, #2 slow flashing), so there's power on the board.
It looks to me like the control board, unless there's a signal from the pressure switch sending bad data?
Any tips on replacing the control board?
Thanks again for the GREAT troubleshooting videos.
You did a really good job with the troubleshooting! Also with typing out what you did. Thank you for all the details! If you have 26v between R-C, the control board should be sending 120v to the inducer motor. So I would agree with you, the board is very likely to be bad.
About the pressure switch.. There is one possibility that rarely happens. Once in a while the pressure switch will get stuck in the closed position. Many furnaces will sense that the pressure switch is closed without the inducer motor running and will either not start or just the inducer or blower motor will run. To check it, just unplug the wires from the pressure switch and check for continuity or resistance between the two terminals. It should be O/L. If there is continuity though, then that means your pressure switch is stuck closed. You can try blowing/sucking into the little hose to try to free it up. Do this carefully (not too much pressure) since the switches need very little pressure to open and close. Otherwise you can rupture the diaphragm
As for replacing the control board, it is usually very easy. Label all the wires or take a picture of them. Or if you can, you can take the old board off with all the wires on it, put in the new board and just transfer one wire at a time. If the new board will be slightly different then the old board, it will usually come with instructions on where the wires should go. Hope that helps!
@@WordofAdviceTV Well, looks like it may not have been the board. I replaced the board, still nothing. When I unplugged even 1 of the pressure switch contacts, the inducer motor starts for a while, the glow plug glows, no burner ignition, glow plug turns off, then the inducer motor stops and alternating red/green lights flash on the board. No heating cycle. Resistance between the connectors shows 1.1
Once I turned on the gas.... I still have to disconnect one lead from the pressure switch in order for it to start. And it will shut off after running for several minutes. To restart, I need to turn the switch off for the furnace, turn it on, then disconnect the pressure switch, and it starts for a while.
@@deanharder9083 Perhaps your pressure switch is stuck in the closed position. By taking the wire off you are tricking the board into thinking that it is open. That's what it sounds like to me anyway.. A little hard to say without being there. I would replace the pressure switch/s. Although it seems like you may have more then one problem going on there. So what code does the board blink after it runs for several minutes?
@@WordofAdviceTVReplacing the pressure switch fixed it. THANKS for your great video and responses!
thanks man saved me from replacing the entire blower when it was indeed the control board thanks a ton
Hey Jay, I'm sorry to bother you but I have been watching most of your videos on furnace problems. First my problem is my furnace kicks in then when it is time for the blower to kick in it doesn’t. I have checked my 120 AC volts going to and out of my circuit board and it looks good. I am not able to get 24 DC volts anywhere. I have also connected main power from my door switch to my motor and the motor and does not want to turn on. Sorry I failed to tell you that there was a burning smell in the house before this happened. I have noticed on my furnace which is about 4 years old. My furnace is a Napoleon furnace by the way. It is also a two-stage high efficiency unit. If you can help me in anyway I would really appreciate it. I want to thank you so much for all your videos you have made they have saved me so much money already. You are a great teacher and for sure very knowledgeable on many subjects. Thanks again for your expertise.
Sorry to hear about your situation my friend and I unfortunately have to break the bad news to you. If you have 120v going to the blower motor but it does not turn on, then the motor is bad. I would replace the blower motor and the capacitor for it.
This video helped me a lot was not getting power to my thermostat found no power coming from transformer on furnace board cleaned the connections and started right up.
Thank you for the videos. You all but fixed my furnace. Very grateful. Well done!
Great videao, esy to follow and understand what you are doing. Appreciate for producing all different videos on Furnace diagnosis and repairing . God Bless you and your family.
Hey Jay, I'm sorry to bother you but I have been watching most of your videos on furnace problems. I have a problem with my furnace when The burners Finish and when it is time for the blower to kick in it doesn’t. I have checked my 120 AC volts going to and out of my circuit board and it looks good. I am not able to get 24 DC volts anywhere. I have also connected main power from my door switch to my motor and the motor and does not want to turn on. One important thing I haven’t mentioned is before, I have noticed a burning smell in the house before all of this started. My furnace is a Napoleon furnace by the way. It is also a two-stage high efficiency unit. If you can help me in anyway I would really appreciate it. I want to thank you so much for all your videos you have made they have saved me so much money already. You are a great teacher and for sure very knowledgeable on many subjects. Thanks again for your expertise.
Many ways to troubleshoot control boards, continuity is something to practice to. Continuity. More technicians need to learn the sequence of operations, check limits and ohm wires before they condemn a board. Found a bad wire sending intermittent signals ohming out. I like watching ac service tech and gray furnace man. Also Jose from Lennox great 👍
I agree! There is a lot more to it. The furnace has A LOT of variables and different kind of problems, different ways of troubleshooting. It would be near impossible to try to cover it all in a series of videos. Lots of truth to the saying, "a technician never stops learning". Sure this video might have only covered a fraction of it but it's a fraction that many people don't know :)
AC servicetech and Gray Furnaceman are great channels!
High there. I use to have my own business, and I still on the side do fix furnaces yet to. Mainly because I still like working watch the people call me so I feel obligated to help them fix there problem.
so I just wanted to let you know your description how to troubleshoot to find out what the problem is, and so it can be fixed. You are right on as to trouble shot in finding the problem, by process alimination. Awesome job, I enjoyed watching video. You most definitely know what you're talkin about, do I give you praise I'm proud of you great job. God bless, and keep up the great work.
Hi, thanks awesome demo, it was informative and great way to educate people which is great!
Janitrol furnace 5 burners with clean burner, clean sensor, and a good clean healthy ignitor,but it does not ignit! Not sure what to check next
Thanks again for amazing experience you have been sharing
I do get power to transformer and out about 26 volts
Did you ever figure this out?
Good video man I do service and sometimes I'll look in so many wrong places before I conform it's a bad board it's not the most common thing but it happens
All your videos are very helpful. Replaced flame sensor. Furnace is working now but sometimes it stops with rapid red code. When I restarted it works again for a while but will stop working with rapid red again.
I started with vac switch code... checked switch and inducer motor and they were fine. Before i got a new board i removed old one completely and cleaned it with soft brush front and back and reinstalled. That fixed it!! All the dust blowing thru there over 25 yrs (yes 25 yrs) must have caused an intermittent short. Goodman unit. Tech woulda sold me a whole new furnace. Not this time, sukkas 😎 clean yer board!
This was my issue. Everything was fine but nothing was still cutting on, it was that black switch came loose at some point and it needed to be press down to get the board to work. Thanks so much!!!!
you are better than the best!!! Ive learned a lot watching your video and appreciate you being as thorough as you are. I think I can handle this one( Im a handywoman around my own home)..thanks a bunch
You're welcome! Glad to hear my videos are helping. Good luck!
Word of Advice, you have been a life saver for many of my problems. I thank you for all your videos. Most of everyone's problems are different but you manage to touch on the rare situations like in my case. Thank you!
the video was well produced, and the content was comprehensive.
thumbs up.
Thank you!
Learning the trade I think you have done very well explaining the basics on a control board thanks for your time.
Happy to hear that, thank you! It's a good trade. Good luck!
been a tech for a year and didnt know the board sent power to the transformer :p lol thank you so much great video
great content again! I learn more with you than at school.
I am trying to troubleshoot HVAC issue - operated normally overnight, next morning no A/C. I believe I have eliminated thermostat and board root cause. With contactor coil wires removed, board reads 24-28 volts as expected when thermostat calls for cooling (blower, cooling to common). With contactor wires replaced, the voltages drop to 7-9 volts. No fuse blowing or circuits tripping. Your videos have been amazingly straightforward to follow. I was hoping you could point me in a direction for this voltage drop issue. Thank you very much!
ADDING: Removed the Homer XMC0-231-EBBC. It is sealed and looks good. However, resistance on coil is 0.5 ohms (zero-point-five). This might explain why the voltage from the step-down transformer falls from ~28 volts w/o contactor wired to
Hi, first of all thanks for your video. In my case furnace starts but stops often and the house is cold. We even put it to 90 and it stays 60 degrees in the house.
Such a good channel, I am a few months into my hvac program, and I feel like I’ve learned more from a few hours watching your videos then the teacher has taught to this point, don’t know if that’s a good or bad thing, but I’ll continue to watch your videos.
Good idea; I'm a retired HVAC practitioner but watch videos and try to offer help when needed. 60 years in the trade!
Thank You for simple, easy to follow understanding of the info...
Subscribed because your videos are informative and short. Thank you for the info
I wanted to said thank you. You really help me out a lot with your videos. Easy to understand
Excellent job!! You're concise and to the point and explain it well. I have watched a couple of your videos and have learned a lot more than I did. Be glad I'm not your neighbor.I'd try like heck not to bother you,but I KNOW me! Ciao
This video is wonderful! Clear and precise directions. It helped me a ton!
Thanks for the content. Just fixed my AC myself
You helped saved me 💰thank you ! You are my hero and I subscribed !
Hi J , Thank you for your videos , My furnace is carrier weather Maker 8000 ts has a little issue is my igniter has no voltage . So it can not turn on blamable The only thing I need my furnace work is using my lighter to light it up to keep warn in this winter time . However , I checked my control board has received 24 voltage but my igniter has no voltage . I checked a limited switch ( both legs have no voltage ) also . If you don't mind , please giving me an advise should I replace a limit switch only or I have to replace a new furnace control board ( too expense ) ?
You saved me $400 bucks. Thank you so much for the video!!
Your video is very helpful. Helped me troubleshoot why my furnace had stopped driving 24v to the EcoBee thermostat. I found the problem in the wire that comes from the 24v end of the transformer to the molex connector, and ultimately drives the Rc line. When I press against the wire in the molex connector, the thing starts working again. Now I am wondering whether to replace that wire, or the molex connector.
I've watched a lot of your videos also like many others. I really enjoyed everyone of them. They're done really well and easy to follow. I really do appreciate your the way you're not like a lot like many others wanting a fee, but if i recognize you in a restaurant, I will pay your food bill. Every single thing I've seen you demonstrate was on point! But i have an old unit without fuses and want to know where i start with my issue on my AC unit... I've checked the Capacitor, Contactor, Fan Motor, condenser, basically everything on the outside and now i'm stumped........ I believe the problem has to be a wire connection. Where should i start??? Thanks in advance .
Hey Marice! Thank you, I'm glad you like my videos! Do you by chance have a meter you can read voltages with? That would make troubleshooting easier. Also, have you watched this video yet? th-cam.com/video/wzAA4dlp_70/w-d-xo.html that video should help you narrow down the problem
In my casé I have power in all those parts that you mention . But the board is not sending power to the induser motor.
Thanks for all your advices.