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@@joemiller6278 In this series truck it definitely feels too far away . Yes you can move the pedal pad over to help out. I’m actually thinking of buying another pad and welding them together, since winter is almost here . Thanks for checking out the video . 👍🏽

@@charlierobinson392 I’ll have to look for you tomorrow. I know that the brown is the power for the lights to come on when you pull the switch . I don’t know off the top of my head which green operates the right and left turn signals. I want to say that the green and yellow operate the driver side and the dark green operates the passenger side . I do know that the light green operates the reverse lamps.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Your videos are in great detail. I appreciate it!

@@RMac-h3d Sorry I missed this question. If you’re going to be running a one wire alternator , then all you need to do is cut out the wires that used to be for the voltage regulator. They no longer have a purpose if you’re changing over to an internally regulated alternator. Once again sorry I didn’t respond sooner.

@@charlierobinson392 You’re welcome and thank you for watching them. I’m glad to hear that I was able to help out. 👍🏽

I was wanting to ask if all the fuses in fuse box should be hot? The only one that ain't hot is my headlights until I turn them on and then it's hot. I think I've got something shorted out because I have some lights working. My hazards lights work but not blinkers and I've replaced the flashers.

@ Yes all the fuses should be hot . In most cases you may need to check out the ground. Make sure that all your grounding points are clean and that the wires are in good condition. One other note is to be sure that the terminals where you snap the fuse in is clean . Sometimes rust or corrosion can occur. Just take a piece of sandpaper and clean it up if that’s the case.

Update, This worked well however I advise just doing light sanding and then putting on some conductive grease to prevent further rusting, however I did find replacement fuse contacts on a British website.

@@WendysAnime I just use a piece of sand paper to remove the rust . Once you pop the contacts out it’s easy to clean them up . To keep the corrosion away, you can use dielectric grease on them.

@@WendysAnime Sorry it took me so long to reply. I’m glad you knew what to do . Thanks for checking out the videos. 👍🏽

@@franciscotrillo8269 Thanks for checking out the video . I’m glad that the rattle can worked for you . All it takes is time and patience.

I hear you . Thanks 👍🏽

@@PatinaCode 😎☕

@@atomicorang Thank you. It was a lot of work , but definitely worth it. Thanks again and thanks for watching the video. 👍🏽

@@alphadog5270 Thank you and you’re welcome. Happy to hear this helped you. 👍🏽

@@PatinaCode If a dog runs in front of a car,it gets Tired...if it runs behind the same vehicle...it gets Exhausted.! Have a Dandy day.

@@larryjohnston52 You’re welcome and thank you. I’m happy to hear that the videos are a help to you . 👍🏽

@@atomicorang Thank you . I appreciate that .👍🏽

You are welcome. Glad the videos were helpful to you. 👍🏽

That’s going to look neat . 👍🏽

Thank you. Happy to hear that was able to help.

Thank you for the compliment. I’m glad that the videos are going to be helpful to you . I’m also glad that you paid attention to the fact that there is more than one video , that breaks down the whole series of wires for this series of trucks. Thanks again and great luck on your upcoming restoration.

Glad that I was able to help. Thanks for reaching out . I hope your project goes smoothly. Thanks again , and thanks for checking out the videos. 👍🏽

These videos are helping me with a 72 Monte Carlo with NO dashlights.

You’re welcome and thank you. Glad I was able to help. 👍🏽

I added about 1/4 of the tank full with antifreeze .

Sorry it took me a bit to respond. I’ve been away for work. So , the breather bolts which are in the head is what the the tubes are connected to . The way that I had ran the lines to the catch can was backwards. The line that I had running to the filtered side of the catch can should have been the line going into the non filtered side of the can. The way that I explained the setup is correct, except for the way the I ran the lines into the can. Hope that helps , and again sorry for leaving you hanging.

Sorry it took me a while to respond. I’ve been away for work . No I don’t have a video for a manual transmission, but all the wires are the same. The only difference is the neutral safety switch. The wires are the same , the switch is just different.

Thank you and you’re welcome. I appreciate you letting me know . I’m glad the videos were a help to you. 👍🏽

Thanks for watching.

If you watch all of the videos that I have up about this vehicles wiring , I explain where each wire goes. You also could get the wiring schematic book on the 1967 - 1972 c10 . They’re not expensive at all .

I’m just a little confused. Because I have a 67 plug that has the dummy lights, but I purchased a rebuilt instrument cluster with all the mechanical gauges and volt meters and tachometer. But on that new printed circuit, the top half of the plug is totally separate from the printed circuit on the bottom half of the plug so it looks like I’m supposed to have a hot wire For the top half of the plug and another hot wire for the bottom half of the plug.

For instance- my double grey wires are on #12.. would that still be gage light/ heater light?and there’s a double green on #5? Ugh. Thanks!

Glad the video was helpful to you. Sorry to hear that someone made a mess of your wires. You’re going to have to try and trace each one to see what it’s hooked up to . If you’re brave enough you can cut them out and start fresh, using what I’ve shown it these videos as a guide. Either way I hope you get things figured out , and thanks fir watching the videos. 👍🏽

I used a wire wheel brush attached to an angle grinder to get all of the old paint and rust off of the metal. Then started sanding with 60 grit all the way up to 3000 grit by hand . I done each panel individually off of the truck. I couldn’t use a block because the body has some dents and dings in it . By using my hand my fingers we’re following every contour, so that the sand lines would be consistent with the imperfections of the sheet metal. I also followed the same sanding lines as the previous grit.

@@PatinaCodeMeans only the visible outer sheell is bare but inside might be some rust protection right? And how is the outer shell against weather conditions? I am living in a sunny area, less rain and if I dont take the car out usually

@@khancross The protection is great. It’s been on the truck for a bit over 2 years , I’ve had no problems. Now with that said , the truck isn’t out on the road every day either. I’ve had to touch up a few spots and those spots were due to a cat spraying on the truck.

@@PatinaCode And behind the body? Protection as usual with epoxy or so?

@@khancross The small section where I knew that I wouldn’t be able to reach , which is the section where the front of the bed is , I painted, but the rest is all bare metal.