BEST DIY Leveling Feet
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 เม.ย. 2019
- For another tool cabinet, I needed some leveling feet. In the past, I made similar versions of these leveling feet, but this time I had another upgrade. So this time they got a dedicated video.
Video of building the new cabinet: • Making a Cabinet for t...
Video of the other leveling feet versions:
• Awesome DIY Leveling F...
• Building the Lathe Sta...
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Enjoy the video! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![making a leveling foot for table legs [woodworking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lzuz2nm4Pac/mqdefault.jpg)
![making a leveling foot for table legs [woodworking]](/img/tr.png)
What do you think about the logo I put int the corner of the video thumbnail? MHW stands for two things: "My Homemade World" and "Marius Hornberger Workshop"
Is nice, but maybe could be improved with some more detail and embellishment?
What does it say? MHW? Hard to tell. Looks kind of like a ROHS certification...
From a designer perspective, I like it in concept. It gets the ideas across, suggests the tool use as well as the message conveyed by the check mark of getting things done. That said, it does have a bit of a clip art feel to it. Seems a little slapdash. which I don't think necessarily reflects your work ethic or attention to detail. It's a very good first pass, but I do think it could use a little work.
Smaller check mark and bigger letters.
Oh. When I show it on my mobile screen I can see it’s also a sawblade.
All done without a metal milling lathe , and having to weld anything like on some channels where they have tons of heavy equipment. I just found my solution for leveling legs. Good job dude.
don't stop doing vids.lol i love watching them and always learn something new. thumbs up Marius
Greetings from Houston! Subscribed immediately after finding your channel. The first time I watched one of your videos I paused every time there was a wide shot showing your shop. What a nice setup! You have a remarkable shop in a tight space. I'm about to have a new shop built that will be smaller than any I have had in many years so efficiency is going to be very important. Your shop is an inspiration and your videos are very nicely done.
Very useful idea!
Fantastic! Thank you for this video! Simple and straight to the point
Thank you for sharing, nice job !
You are absolute genius my friend..Best wishes..
Nice, always look forward to your projects.
You were not kidding with a BIG FILE. Wow!
Nice how-to to this already-shown-in-other-project feet.
Sauber. Danke
Excellent design.. Will have to try it
Marius, these are great, I can't wait to finish my shop so I can make leveling feet like this.
Always intelligent designs mixed with common sense. Great video.
Smart leveling feed solution you made 👍🏻
Thanks I finished building your solid version with succes !!
great Concept Marius very well done
Ah, Marius, always excellent stuff :) I always come to your channel when I need a smart solution to something.
Great work, great idea. Bravo.
I'm on your side when it comes to adjustable machine feet. They are WAY easier to adjust when they are locked. If the equipment is heavy, just use a lever whilst adjusting, like a crowbar or something. Nice video as usual, keep up the good work man. Thumbs up.
Another top video Marius,you are spoiling us!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Every video that watch, always have me amazing of how brilliant you are! :-D Learn more thanks to you!! Engineering brilliance!!
Great job , one suggestion tho , you could take bicycle inner tube ( cut it to shape ) glue it to bottom of the feet for vibration dampening and better traction .
Marius -For your solid version - if you find "Flexible Cutting Board" on Amazon, cut out a disk the same size as the bottom of your disk feet, then glue it on, that should allow the foot to spin much easier on the floor as you adjust it, without necessarily moving the machine (if you have any amount of weight already on it.). We used these all the time for the bottom of any leg of furniture.
I do like those! Thanks.
Marius you are the perfect guy for this! It’s the time old problem of never having enough clamps . What about something like a truss that spans 5 feet and needs only 3 clamps . I’m picturing something like a bridge with a subtle arch that when clamped in the middle it distributes the pressure more evenly. And yes I know use a 2x4 it works fine , but it still takes a lot of clamps
Nice video. Good instructions and images. Cheers! : )
I need to buy all those tools before I can get start making one.😂
Thanks! In the process of building a new, larger shop. These will definitely come in handy, as my slab was poured by the cheapest Ed bidder and is not level.....🤨
You could put felt, cloth or some kind of easy-to-slide material under the foot to keep it in place when adjusting it.
If you remember, the purpose of the adjustment is usually to level the cabinet, not raise it. If you just want to level it, you just lift the cabinet so it rests on the other three feet, then adjust until snug. It shouldn't move the cabinet to snug the foot.
If you are raising it, such as for an out-feed table, you should pre adjust them to be close to the height you want, then snug them up.
When I am making height adjustments like that, I just put a stick under the cabinet for leverage and gently lift the cabinet long enough to make the adjustment and set it back down again.
I do like the added lock nut you put on to keep the foot from vibrating loose. That was good thinking.
love your videos and the outtakes at the end...
video idea failed projects and how to avoid that.
Great idea.
Great video. Thanks
You could trow between one of those spring steel washers that create tension, so it wont rattle away, or just use O rings. Little angular adjustability that comes from feet moving might be beneficial for uneven floors like ones on poorly leveled, unsanded concrete workshop/garage floors. Though most useful would be have feet like this in convention etc work bench or tool table that needs to be moved quite often, for that its pretty essential that feet does not move and rub against for instance concrete, breaking the lacker seal and letting moisture getting in and so on.
There are so many different ways to make leveling feet that they are all good and all bad, by that I mean they all have there good points and they all have there bad points. So there for I have no idea who's are better than who's.
Thanks for sharing and God bless
Well done
beautiful
Great job!
Nice work
Amazing mate.
Excellent!
Those guys are stronger then my feets :-)
Nice Job!!
Nice way of fabricating the leveling feet. One thing they are missing is angular play. I know of industrial versions which have a ball connecting the threaded rod to the bottom plate hence compensating angular missalingment. But if these feet work for you I would like to say extremly well done.
Thank you!
I like the hockey puck concept. Garage/workshop floors might get wet on occasion.
suggestion, since you have a lathe, you could turn a steep taper on the nut that would be resting on the plate and also countersink the plate that way the slop wouldn't matter as it would be self-centering, maybe thats worth a try
I watched your video and had GREAT IDEA....I went on line and bought two pairs....lol...
You weren’t joking when you said a ‘big’ file
I was just about to add the comment "You weren't joking when you said 'with a big file'" when I saw your comment :)
What until you see the file the NSA has on you.
That definitely is a big file, larger than any I have.
I 'see' what you did there
@@theRealRindberg thats what she said !!!
I picked up some Footmaster levelling castors recently, the levelling feet in them have /loads/ of play when unloaded (and I was worried they were faulty or something), however when the foot is loaded, it goes totally rigid. There appears to be some kind of flange that gets pressed against the casting of the err, castor, which keeps it perpendicular. Any lateral force of it is counter acted by gravity. I would invite you to explore if the swivelling foot would work out. Maybe look at the Footmaster castors for an idea of how they might function, I'm no engineer
thanks for sharing the video. if i may add my 2c, i`d say i have been guilty of "putting windows to a tent" syndrome, your leveling feet are super ok and unless you`re leveling a machine tool or a surface plate i`d put them on anything. regarding the swivel feet that play is negligible and having some weight on the thing will sit it firmly, wood will move and vibrate enough to throw level out in service. a big tap wrench can be made quickly with two pieces of steel and two bolts and pig fat is an excellent lubricant for carbon steel, the dog will lick it after tho. :D regards. peter
First 2 thumbs up.
If a carriage bolt is used and the matting hole drilled with a drill bit for metal it would allow for angular compaction, similar to a ball and socket. A t-nut would be easier in the leg
Hi. What about rubber on the bottom of the feet for vibration dampening? Love your videos. Thanks for sharing.
In the wooden foot, put a small washer at the bottom of the hole (which needs to be deeper). On that washer put a ball bearing. In the bolt head drill a hole that's wide enough to accept one third of the ball bearing. The rest is identical.
Awesome
Thanks
Working with wood for some time i understood, that a welder is a "must have" tool for a woodworker ;)
I tried to make a table out of half a euro pallet and fence beams, where I connect the fence beams and the euro pallet with a threaded rod and screws embedded and glued into the wood. As you might've guessed, that did not work out very well. As soon as I started tightening any of the table legs it'd pull one or both screws out.
I will definitely steal this idea and make a better version of it!
Cool, please send me a picture when they're finished
@@MariusHornberger left the table project back home for the semester, but definitely will send a pic when it's finished in a few months time!
calling that file The Big File is an understatement !!!!
What you need is a bearing surface for the feet to rotate. Incorporate a thrust bearing to allow the threaded rod to rotate independent of the feet. You can either make a thrust bearing, buy them, or you can take castor wheels and remove the wheel portion, remove the mount that allows clearance for the wheels, and leave the flat plate so you can attach feet to it. The castors have a built in thrust bearing and you can tap one of the sides to accept the threaded rod.
That seems like a lot of effort for a one time usage
@@MariusHornberger you could say the same about your design. You could have just knocked a wedge under the corner to level it too but obviously you wanted a way more technical approach
Kid I envy your father, must be so proud of you !!! Cheers
Round the bolt heads on the lathe and size the hole in the wood for a close fit and they won't wobble.
You could really do with getting yourself a decent tap wrench. It makes cutting straight threads much easier. And a couple turns forward to one back is a good way of stopping the chips getting too big.
I always get a little bit excited when I see a new video from you Marius! Love your work!
steel plate - check, washer with holes - check, wooden plate - check, M12 screw - check, two 'nuts' - check :P
That is a big file!
There was a TH-camr I remember seeing who used hockey pucks instead of plywood for the foot. Seemed like a pretty neat idea, might be less prone to slipping on a smooth floor.
Definitely a good idea
Could you get a large washer with an M11 hole and drill it out to fit the bolt more snugly.
Good job. I think that file is called a ‘big bastard’.😉
I make a very similar item, but with carriage bolts so the feet are compliant with the floor.
Not bad!
Very nice photography. Thank you. Clear, concise and in focus close-ups. Now if you can just eliminate the sound echo's! :>)
Maybe one improvement: change the top nut (locking nut) to a wingnut. But only for something you move around often that needs more frequent adjusting. And in many cases you only need two of them to be adjustable. Put the adjustable ones on the front for easy access.
Make the feet hexagonal profile rather than round. A plumber's wrench would give you the mechanical advantage to adjust and maintain stability.
The proportions are good, just make it a bit larger on the thumb nail. And start each video with a full screen of the logo. Be proud of what you have done. Big green check mark is solid, like that.
Muito bom
MHW Logo looks Very mice, and I know where I am. Good Idea, nice project
They look nice, but they require more materials than many other options, as well as more work. I like the simplicity (and cost) of using only a drillbit, chisel, glue, and a nut and bolt.
What was the cost difference between your version and a commercial one? Great vid btw.
Remember to spray a little cutting oil at your drill bits when you're doing metal on metal bro. The smoke is the metal starting to burn and this just unnecessarily stresses the metals in both the bit and the workpiece. Great work and a nice project!
That was the cutting oil getting hot.
@@MariusHornberger I realise my apology. Keep up the good work
I feel like he included the free spinning version in the video, just so he could say "tighten these nuts against each other".
I use a tee nut and carriage bolt
I'm interested in the hold down at the drillpress for the washer. Could you elaborate on its parts. Thank you.
It was a screw, through another smaller washer into a scrap of wood
how can you make them with gimbals?
Maybe some rubber strips if you experience an unsatisfactory amount of vibration
I would love to know what that large file is, I would love to have one in my shop
It's a large file
hallo Marius
könnte es sein dass die Füße die Werkbank beim drehen bewegen will die Unterseite nicht perfekt plan und 90 grad zur schraube stehen. wenn dass so wehre könntest du sie einfach in die Drechsel einspannen und plan drehen. das habe ich gemacht und ich hatte keine Probleme. aber Davon abgesehen kann ich dir zustimmen es ist ein ein perfektes designe bei mir wackelt auch nichts und sie sind echt Billig
Have you ever tried using a rod coupling nut fully embedded in the leg in place of a hex nut. A rod coupling would provide much more support for the threaded rod, about 3 or more rod diameters vice 1 diameter for a standard size hex nut. You wouldn't need the washer or the tapped plate so less work, no drilling, no tap required, and fewer parts. Drill hole to the major diameter of the nut leaving the end just proud of the bottom of the leg by one or two mm and epoxy it in place. It will never move. Example nut: Low-Strength Steel Coupling Nut, Zinc-Plated, M12 x 1.75 mm Thread - McMaster item 93355A360
Haven't tought about that yet. But I like that idea!
Such a design can be helped by use of flanged nuts.
Would be great, to turn on the lathe decoration covers for nuts and then cut in falf and hollow it from inside with tablesaw. 😅
Just wondering about the taps, from the ones I have used previously, the first one cuts the treads, and the 2 others are for a blind hole, so you get the threads all the way down. This is not the case with yours? 🤔
My set is just for through holes in three steps (neccesary for M12). There probably are different sets available
What about loctite in stead of cross pins? Am I missing a specifc reason for this extra step except skookumness?
Edit:
Oh my Bad commented to early
it makes sense after watching some more minutes when he wanted to wrench on that nut@Jazz
Then you tighten DeezNutz together. Love your videos Marius!
Wouldn't one adjustable foot suffice for a four legged table? Love your videos.
If you only care about wobble, yes. But I think you need more to make things level.
Two videos at the same time?
That was a serious file. o_o
The play in the feet should not matter, since there will be infinite play between the feet and the floor anyway.
The stabillity comes from the weight of the table.
to adjust the fixed foot, just use a lever to lift the cabinet, adjust the foot, and let the cabinet down again. easy.
How's you power quick connect system holding up?
Great
If you file some more, use your arms not your whole upper body. Be aware of material combinations that may corrode each other when you use different metals contacting each other. If you cut with your angle grinder, some metals will loose their hardening heating them up. Interesting channel. Subbed.
Why do you need 4?
Next improvement to these. Use threaded rod and run it up to the top of the bench so that instead of having to get on the ground to turn a foot .... you can put a socket on and adjust foot height from standing position.