He'll to the YEAH!! Thanks youre the man! Best life hack ever! Everyone needs to know this simple way to change your brake pads up front. Women included!
Your my hero....been riding metal to metal for way to long all because I couldn't find my c clamp I know I have somewhere probably hiding with all my 10mm sockets lol omw to rip off a tire thank you
Thanks buddy that’s going to make things a lot easier for sure, I’m a total novice, so any advice like this will definitely help me, I’m now a fan of yours and definitely clicking on at button 👍🏴🍻
Old trick, but clean that bracket and replace the clips. Also replace the rotor and use Anti-Seize on your brake calipers. Take pins out as well and add new grease. You're welcome. Do it right the first time and pads will last longer.
If you do have the turn-in kind, try using large needle nose pliers before buying the special tool sold for the job. The needle nose worked, and it was easy.
A lot of people are afraid to do brakes with the car on but if you are safe you can do this. Turn car on and you can move the calipers by hand one by one with the use of hydraulic power of the vehicle. Not all but most vehicles can do this. If pins are corroded or you have issues then I would replace any hardware that binds your calipers or brake system.
Never ever follow this unsafe advice. Period. Working engine vibrations might cause whatever you used to jack up the car, to slip, causing catastrophic damage to your hands or legs. The dumbest piece of YT DIY car mechanic advice out there!
Been trying this trick on my Jeep Grand Cherokee 2000, no go. I have tried all sorts of lengths of screwdrivers. I even attempted the unsafe option of turning on the car and doing it and still no go. I've gotten a little tiny bit of movement but it won't go beyond about 1/3 of an inch. I put three jack stands on both sides before I turned on the car but that didn't do anything but give me a bunch of carbon monoxide.
I couldn't get my calipers back on my 97 Astro with the pin guide sleeves in place & said to hell with it & put the caliper back on without them.. Everything seems solid.. Do I really need to use them?
Yep thats what I thought. My brake pads are sticking. Cant compress the caliper with a screw driver even if I open the bleeder while doing it. Ive bleed the master cylinder, all the lines twice, even used my Scanner to bleed the ABS module. The front brake pads still stick. The first thing I did before anything was remove and rebuild the caliper. The inside looked fine, the piston is as shiny as it was the day I got the car. But it must be something with the caliper. I can compress it with a large C clamp and alot of force.
Great Tip, but I sure hope you're not installing new pads without putting high temp grease along the pad slides and between the pad and piston and also cleaning and regressing the slide pins.
some calipers need to be wound in to compress, and its also important to clean the piston so that no contaminants make it back into the body of the caliper. just something to keep in mind, might be better to get the tool so that the piston is compressed without damaging it. love the tip anyways
I did all 4 of my brakes. And after compressing all the pistons, my brake fluid just about overflowed from it's compartment under the hood and I can see a few large air bubbles in the fluid. I removed the cap after doing the first caliper because I was told to do that but now I'm worried I may have messed something up. Do I need to bleed my brakes?
I’m not positive but I think you were supposed to loosen the bleeder screws on the caliper to allow some fluid to be released when you compress the pistons.
no it doesn't as you lever the caliper main body against the back of outside brake pad on one side first, and then after that use the tip on the back of the inside brake pad.
This is brilliant. But, be sure you don't do this with calipers that screw back in, or you will have a very bad day. Many cars have fronts that compress and rears that turn. I remember a Taurus I had that had them on the front. No TH-cam then, I was stumped.
One thing that helps is attaching a vinyl tube to the brake bleeder and crack the bleeder. This is ideal considering you don’t want to send fluid back up to the master cylinder/diaphragm.
You push the piston. There's room between the piston and rotor if you remove the brake pads, cause there should be a bracket covering the hole that you put the screwdriver in. i just removed the bracket and pads first.
Ok, so that’s for floating calipers and brake disks you don’t care about cracking…but how about real brakes? How would you compress, say, a 6-piston AP, Wilwood, or Brembo caliper which doesn’t need to be removed to pull the pads through the unit?
It’s still possible (lever the tip away from rotor into the old pad). Those systems are more difficult but I usually compress one side, replace the pad then work the other
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii a Renault Megane 3 ;) hahaha 2012 trust me Ive tryed and Allmost shit my pants to Press it back until someone told me They scree back 😂😂🤷🏻♂️
Just used it today after struggling for an hour.
It's quick as well.
Thank you.
He'll to the YEAH!! Thanks youre the man! Best life hack ever! Everyone needs to know this simple way to change your brake pads up front. Women included!
Literally just saved me money and time so I don’t have to go to the auto parts store I will after but thank you
Wow!!!!! It actually worked! You're amazing! Thank you.
It worked for me. Greetings from Belize.
This trick helped me replace my front rotors today. Cheers🍻
Your my hero....been riding metal to metal for way to long all because I couldn't find my c clamp I know I have somewhere probably hiding with all my 10mm sockets lol omw to rip off a tire thank you
Thanks buddy that’s going to make things a lot easier for sure, I’m a total novice, so any advice like this will definitely help me, I’m now a fan of yours and definitely clicking on at button 👍🏴🍻
Thanks!!
Old trick, but clean that bracket and replace the clips. Also replace the rotor and use Anti-Seize on your brake calipers. Take pins out as well and add new grease. You're welcome. Do it right the first time and pads will last longer.
I love simple easy stuff like this, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I will be sure to like and subscribe for more!
Thanks for the sub!
Life saver I was struggling so bad and this made the whole job 10x easier and faster
If you do have the turn-in kind, try using large needle nose pliers before buying the special tool sold for the job. The needle nose worked, and it was easy.
A lot of people are afraid to do brakes with the car on but if you are safe you can do this. Turn car on and you can move the calipers by hand one by one with the use of hydraulic power of the vehicle. Not all but most vehicles can do this. If pins are corroded or you have issues then I would replace any hardware that binds your calipers or brake system.
Dude thank you!! You saved me with this one🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Never ever follow this unsafe advice. Period.
Working engine vibrations might cause whatever you used to jack up the car, to slip, causing catastrophic damage to your hands or legs.
The dumbest piece of YT DIY car mechanic advice out there!
@@howado lower car on spare can't slip off the rim.
@@howadoyou’re fucking insufferable
Been trying this trick on my Jeep Grand Cherokee 2000, no go. I have tried all sorts of lengths of screwdrivers. I even attempted the unsafe option of turning on the car and doing it and still no go. I've gotten a little tiny bit of movement but it won't go beyond about 1/3 of an inch. I put three jack stands on both sides before I turned on the car but that didn't do anything but give me a bunch of carbon monoxide.
Same way we pushed calipers in on old Fords back in the 80's. Nobody had special tools, everyone had a big screwdriver, lol.
It’s new technology again! ;)
I couldn't get my calipers back on my 97 Astro with the pin guide sleeves in place & said to hell with it & put the caliper back on without them.. Everything seems solid.. Do I really need to use them?
Yep thats what I thought. My brake pads are sticking. Cant compress the caliper with a screw driver even if I open the bleeder while doing it. Ive bleed the master cylinder, all the lines twice, even used my Scanner to bleed the ABS module. The front brake pads still stick. The first thing I did before anything was remove and rebuild the caliper. The inside looked fine, the piston is as shiny as it was the day I got the car. But it must be something with the caliper. I can compress it with a large C clamp and alot of force.
Great Tip, but I sure hope you're not installing new pads without putting high temp grease along the pad slides and between the pad and piston and also cleaning and regressing the slide pins.
effective and straight to the point
Thanks man,I'm going to try that trick tomorrow
Unless you have the caliper off first.
some calipers need to be wound in to compress, and its also important to clean the piston so that no contaminants make it back into the body of the caliper. just something to keep in mind, might be better to get the tool so that the piston is compressed without damaging it. love the tip anyways
He covered that at the end of the video 👌🏻
I did all 4 of my brakes. And after compressing all the pistons, my brake fluid just about overflowed from it's compartment under the hood and I can see a few large air bubbles in the fluid. I removed the cap after doing the first caliper because I was told to do that but now I'm worried I may have messed something up. Do I need to bleed my brakes?
I’m not positive but I think you were supposed to loosen the bleeder screws on the caliper to allow some fluid to be released when you compress the pistons.
Doesn't this scratch the pad surface of rotors itself and/or the edges of the rotors?
no it doesn't as you lever the caliper main body against the back of outside brake pad on one side first, and then after that use the tip on the back of the inside brake pad.
This is brilliant. But, be sure you don't do this with calipers that screw back in, or you will have a very bad day. Many cars have fronts that compress and rears that turn. I remember a Taurus I had that had them on the front. No TH-cam then, I was stumped.
thank you this helped me a lot!! 💪
“And Bob’s ya uncle” hahahahahahaha
Thanks for the tips! Worked great for me! 😊
Great to hear!
I am struggling to push the piston back in. I used a piston compression tool but the piston resists. Any suggestion?
Sounds like the piston could be seized? If that's the case going to have to replace the whole caliper
Thank you sir.
I did this over 40 years on motorcycle.s ( watch the the brake reservoir for flood )
Do you need to open your brake reservoir cap first?
No the cap breathes
Great tip 👍
Are you telling me, that for all these years, we …?!
I’m done for today 😂
Great!!! Thanks a lot.
One thing that helps is attaching a vinyl tube to the brake bleeder and crack the bleeder. This is ideal considering you don’t want to send fluid back up to the master cylinder/diaphragm.
Unless fluid is very dirty or caliper very corroded, I usually just send it back yo the line
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii
Well how would you know if the fluid is dirty or not if you can’t see it….
You're probably gonna have to bleed the brake anyway so just watch the master so it doesn't overflow. might need a turkey baster.
@@MRSC760
I would say turkey bastet method first. Get all the crud and dirty fluid out first. Just a thought.
Smooth!🤙🏽
Do you push push the old break pad with the screwdriver against
You push the piston. There's room between the piston and rotor if you remove the brake pads, cause there should be a bracket covering the hole that you put the screwdriver in. i just removed the bracket and pads first.
What if guide pin is stuck?
Ok, so that’s for floating calipers and brake disks you don’t care about cracking…but how about real brakes?
How would you compress, say, a 6-piston AP, Wilwood, or Brembo caliper which doesn’t need to be removed to pull the pads through the unit?
It’s still possible (lever the tip away from rotor into the old pad). Those systems are more difficult but I usually compress one side, replace the pad then work the other
Genius!!!!
Lol. Bob’s your uncle, and Fanny’s your aunt!
Thanks!
I know he busted his ass sitting on that tool box like that lmao 🤣
He’ll nah tried it on a 2500 single piston that shit was not budging used a 3foot screw driver to nothing
Fooook I already got it off 😪
Don’t take advice from a guy that works on vehicles in fucking sandals
You cant do that on The rear kalibers!!!! That has to be srewed in 🤷🏻♂️
Do you have a ford or that one Honda? ;) jkjk
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii a Renault Megane 3 ;) hahaha 2012 trust me Ive tryed and Allmost shit my pants to Press it back until someone told me They scree back 😂😂🤷🏻♂️
Didn't know Hawaii had pine trees