Crikey, you’ve come on a long way since we worked on your nav lights in Almerimar!!!! I think it’s you that will be giving me advice from now on. Well done!
Really impressive work. One suggestion - remove the spacer nuts between the terminals and the bus-bars. Stainless has about 40x the resistivity of copper. At 500A (bow thruster) each of those nuts will get about 1.5W of heat.
Did you consider turning the onboard battery pairs 180 degrees to put the posts towards the outboard pair posts? This would allow the equal length cables from the posts to the busbars to not be coiled up between the inboard battery pairs (between the busbars). An accidental short would be…well, not fun. BTW, if you do this, you need to make sure the + and - posts are completely insulated from each other.
Did you mean for the old AGM pairs? The new Lithiums don’t need pairing as they’re already 24v so go direct to the busbars. I tried many combinations and this seemed the best fit for the size of battery box allowing for equal length cables.. plus I have spillover on the other side of the bulkhead for a few more next to the engine battery if needed in the future.. but first I need to upgrade the solar I think 🤔
@@MothershipMaintenance darn spellcheck. “Onboard” should be “inboard.” With the 8 batteries, in a 4x2 array, you have 2 “outboard” pairs and 2 “inboard” pairs. If the 2 inboard (towards the busbars) pairs of batteries had the lugs next to the lugs of the “outboard” pairs, you wouldn’t need to coil the cables (you said “rat’s nest”) from the inboard pairs as all of the lugs would be pretty close to the 700mm (cable length) distance from the busbars. Said another way, turn both “inboard” pairs of 24v batts 180 degrees and you won’t have the 8 cables coiled in the area where the busbars are. Or…leave an excellent installation alone 😁
@@MothershipMaintenance the APD seems simple so I’m guessing the WS500 config is the challenge. My AP500 (APS version of WS) config for AGM batts was pretty straightforward. I’m watching…attentively, as you integrate the Victron/battleborn system with just the APD for load dump protection. Is the theory for this protection that a load dump is a high severity/low likelihood risk so the APD is sacrificial until you put a spare APD in? Fantastic content on your channel. Thanks
Yes, not cheap but prices for lithium batteries are falling quite rapidly. I don't think Battleborn have increased prices in line with inflation so they're becoming much more affordable compared to lead/acid... and obviously far better value and more efficient than lead/acid too.
If you’re referring to the untinned copper, I replaced like for like as the previous cabling had been in the boat for nearly 25 years.. so figured it was good for another 25.
Crikey, you’ve come on a long way since we worked on your nav lights in Almerimar!!!! I think it’s you that will be giving me advice from now on. Well done!
Love the brake lights at the back of your head. ;-)
That’s a warning light for the family to stay away when it’s on!
Really impressive work. One suggestion - remove the spacer nuts between the terminals and the bus-bars. Stainless has about 40x the resistivity of copper. At 500A (bow thruster) each of those nuts will get about 1.5W of heat.
There’s a lug curse on sailing yachts, I know for sure. They are always almost right and almost enough.
That the almost curse?.. I think it goes for everything else on a boat!
Did you consider turning the onboard battery pairs 180 degrees to put the posts towards the outboard pair posts? This would allow the equal length cables from the posts to the busbars to not be coiled up between the inboard battery pairs (between the busbars). An accidental short would be…well, not fun.
BTW, if you do this, you need to make sure the + and - posts are completely insulated from each other.
Did you mean for the old AGM pairs? The new Lithiums don’t need pairing as they’re already 24v so go direct to the busbars. I tried many combinations and this seemed the best fit for the size of battery box allowing for equal length cables.. plus I have spillover on the other side of the bulkhead for a few more next to the engine battery if needed in the future.. but first I need to upgrade the solar I think 🤔
@@MothershipMaintenance darn spellcheck. “Onboard” should be “inboard.”
With the 8 batteries, in a 4x2 array, you have 2 “outboard” pairs and 2 “inboard” pairs.
If the 2 inboard (towards the busbars) pairs of batteries had the lugs next to the lugs of the “outboard” pairs, you wouldn’t need to coil the cables (you said “rat’s nest”) from the inboard pairs as all of the lugs would be pretty close to the 700mm (cable length) distance from the busbars.
Said another way, turn both “inboard” pairs of 24v batts 180 degrees and you won’t have the 8 cables coiled in the area where the busbars are.
Or…leave an excellent installation alone 😁
Nice video Woody. What did you use for alternator protection?
I’ve got the sterling APD and the WS500.. which I’m currently having lots of fun trying to instal. :/
@@MothershipMaintenance the APD seems simple so I’m guessing the WS500 config is the challenge. My AP500 (APS version of WS) config for AGM batts was pretty straightforward. I’m watching…attentively, as you integrate the Victron/battleborn system with just the APD for load dump protection. Is the theory for this protection that a load dump is a high severity/low likelihood risk so the APD is sacrificial until you put a spare APD in?
Fantastic content on your channel. Thanks
Thats what 10k in battle born batterys and extra bits looks like for the average joe . Wow
Yes, not cheap but prices for lithium batteries are falling quite rapidly. I don't think Battleborn have increased prices in line with inflation so they're becoming much more affordable compared to lead/acid... and obviously far better value and more efficient than lead/acid too.
Please tell us you did not use welding cable. They are NOT suitable for marine use
If you’re referring to the untinned copper, I replaced like for like as the previous cabling had been in the boat for nearly 25 years.. so figured it was good for another 25.
@@MothershipMaintenance Your insurance company will most likely disagree. And the sheathing is not suitable for a marine environment