Pete, you are a lifesaver! My 16 year old son wants to rebuild a 440 and I have never tore an engine down. Your videos are giving me the confidence to give it a go. Thank you for making these videos!
I miss doing this, that was the good days, now days its just small engines for me. But at least it's still an engine. I build some pretty snappy small air cooled engines for go-karts & mini-bikes.
A tip on installing the rings on Pistons To make installation go “smoother” place your ring kit in the oven and set at WARM…150 to 160 degrees is all that is needed. Pull out one bank at a time and install They go on like butter DO NOT check a ring gap with a warm ring, this should be done as a separate process before installation Ring gap should always be checked with a cold ring and block
@@PetesGarage I’m not sure about ring manufactures position on warming ring sets before installation but since the products will “experience” a constant “working temperature” HUNDREDS of degrees higher when the engine is in service I’m not sure there is reason for concern here. My Dad and his hotrod buddies did this trick in the 50’s and 60’s and he taught me to do it. All your trying to do, is after you have done all your final ring inspection, gap filing etc. Is make the rings go on the pistons “smoother” so they are less likely to be bent or broken during installation without damaging the piston This also makes them a bit easier to “clock” when not cold.
Pete I’ve watched quite a few of your videos and I believe this is the first time I’ve seen you clock the oil scraper rings. Correct me if I’m wrong. I’m sure you did but it just caught my attention this time around. Thanks for sharing as always. You and stay safe and well Artie 🇺🇸😊
Also double check the rod bolt torque spec. 40 ft/lbs sounds like the torque spec for the stock 3/8" bolts. I think the Eagle rods have the 7/16" cap screws that take 60+ ft/lbs of torque?
I owe you a beer Jim! I looked at the wrong spec. The card had both bolts but separated. The torque is 63 ft. lbs. Send me an email with your address and I'll send you a t-shirt. thank you
Hi Pete, great videos. I'm always looking for new sources of advice when rebuilding, and just found your channel. I have few questions. First, from the beginning of this video series, and someone else has previously asked this, how much block cleaning & prep do you do on a used factory block like this prior to sending it out to the shop? I always chase and clean every hole, open up the oil passages and run pipe bushes through them. I will cut ends off the pipe brushes to chuck them in a drill and clean passages almost like using a hone. I also use a small die grinder with rotary file bits to clean up any excess iron flashing on the block and smooth all the drain passages to aid in oil return. At 9:07 in this video it looks like there's a bit of flashing in the center lifter valley. This is just for regular street engines, my thought is better oil return and drainage will reduce oil sludge and build-up when the motor cools down after use. Finally, something I haven't tried, but have thought about as I've seen painted internal cases at work (power plant). Have you ever considered painting the inside of the engine for improved oil drainage? Tom
Great comment Tom. I don't do too much cleanup, unless there is some major flashing or the customer is paying for a show engine. The machine shop removes all of the plugs and bakes out all of the oil so it's spotless. Saves me a lot of time and aggravation.
just a note here so nobody gets confused, on most of the production engines the bearing with the hole goes on the rod, because that's how you oil the piston pin
Very nice video, well done clear explanations. My only question is the method you use to increase the ring gap if you need to. I have tried a hand file and a hand held grinder but I can never get the ring gap to be of constant gap, it always seems to be crooked looking (Uneven gap). One time this bothered me so much I bought another set of rings to practice on. Also a grinding wheel can get the ring red hot at the end, doesn't this change the rings hardness for the worse? Luckily the majority of the repairs I did (on my own engines) were ok as they came out of the box. I still have a lot to learn and your videos I can follow quite well and learn a lot from your experience.
Thank you Joe. If you need to open up the gap, you can get a cheap ring file like this one www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-906795?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=CjwKCAiA0IXQBRA2EiwAMODil6kJ-UZqjt6-H2Y8HyhTtfa4OdRtIa7N1md5Gi2PhKiSrVlx1JBVdxoCcBQQAvD_BwE
Pete, really enjoyed this segment of the build. I have a rookie question. Is there a gap that needs to be set between the rod caps on each crank journal, prior to doing the final torque on the bolts?
Hi Pete! Love your videos :) I have a 351w in a 68 Fastback mustang. It puts out over 450 hp and is supercharged. The problem is that i dont think its tought through when they built it. Cause i dont think it runs right, and when i got the parts list of the prev owner, it didn't seem right. Im on the verge of wanting to just rebuild the whole thing, leaving only the block left, if its crack free and i good shape. I have a few alternatives i want to do: stay with the 351 cid, but build it for a supercharger. OR Bore and stroke it out, to either 408 or 427 cid, but leave the supercharger out of it. What do you think of these 3 alternatives? Thanks!
So I thought that std size is the stock bore size, and oversized is the .020, .030, etc. Or am I missing what you were saying there? Also is it always the case with the rod bearings having the hole for the bottom? Seems like my Nissan was the opposite, but I could be wrong?
Some bearings fit several applications. That's why there is a hole in one half. On a Nissan the bearing with the hole might go into the rod instead of the cap. There is usually a matching hole in the rod also for pin or piston oiling.
For a 440 the stock pistons off the shelf come in those over-sizes. Bearings vary quite a bit. Sometimes they are orientation specific, sometime location specific. Just make sure they're in right. If you're taking an engine apart, take pictures so you can remember how they go back in.
Another excellent instalment. With regards to the piston ring gapping, if it came with .010 clearance and you needed to open it up abit, is there a side that you favour (bigger or smaller) or would you just split it down the middle? Obviously application dependant, but for this engine say.
The old factory type rear main seals if I remember correctly were once made out of some type of felt material or something and you would dip them in mineral spirits or other light oil. You would put the seals in the grooves and install the cap quickley as then the seals would swell up after you installed the rear main cap. It would be a very tight seal.
just a bit of trivia, notice the holes in the rod bearings? they allow oil to get in between the rod and the bearing, why? because only on start up does your rod actually ride on the bearing, otherwise it's riding on a very thin bead of oil, which is why oil changes are so important. Since my old man passed away 10 years ago i haven't touched any of our mopars (we have quite a few that we were working on from a 36 Plymouth coupe to a dodge 330 polara race car). It's moments like this that make want to go back to it but after i start i just don't have the heart.
@@PetesGarage i don't think i was very clear. The rod journal rides on a thin "sheet" of oil on the crank. both rod bearings with oil between them and the crank which acts like a "pillow" for the rod to around and this is what amazes me, such engineering is just wonderful (guess cause i'm into machinist stuff). It's kinda like why those old blocks were always cast iron (or better said, one of the advantages of using cast iron). That cast Iron acts like a sponge and helps keep oil at the piston from the cylinder wall. Like i was trying to point out, it's amazing engineering. (I'm not even talking about the amazing things found in the racing world either). Hope that made my statement clearer. :)
I didnt scroll through all the comments so maybe this was answered. Noobie question...if those are new rod assemblies, why are they marked with the cylinder number? Thank you!
Pete, I am pretty sure the 2nd ring is bevel side down not up. I use the same Total Seal rings. If you read the instructions it actually says if there is no dot install bevel side down.. left side of the orange instructions - conventional rings. 7.31 into your video. And number 6 piston doesn't look correct at 17.21 it appears you have an inlet and exhaust together ? Usually the valve recess is ex-in-in-ex-ex-in-in-ex.. Did this myself not long ago and realized after I buttoned up the sump.... ;-)
BINGO! Not only are you correct, I Love my Strat! You were the only person to catch that piston ring. I actually fixed both of those items after I made the video. TH-cam use to allow me to add annotations so I uploaded the video and wanted to add a correction right on the video at that point. Well, they changed the options and I can no longer add an annotation. The only way to correct that is to upload a new video. I'm trying to do something about it. Email your address and I'll send you a t-shirt.
Strato caster bevel is like an hour glass / bevel up top ring / bevel down bottom ring unless you have 3 ring tall deck Chevy truck piston then you have 3rd comp ring
Great stuff as always. Thanks. What happened at 13:12? To an untrained eye like mine it looks like this would scratch the inner cylinder wall quite good.
You have a great eye. That ring compressor is on there really tight. When the piston drops in the compressor closes pretty quick. It is not harder than the block so it will not scratch.
Great vids. Sub'd. I will use these when rebuilding the 440 for my '70 Satellite. I have a few questions. What did you use for lube on the pistons when you started assembling them into the block? Just WD40? What brand of assembly lube were you using on the bearings? Thank you. Great job on explanations.
Thank you Mark, and welcome. I use WD40 to help get the pistons through the ring compressor, but I lube the cylinders with the same motor oil I'm running in the engine. I use JD Blood lube but any PTFE assembly lube is good.
Since when is the bore tapered? I've been boring cylinders for decades and I have never bored them tapered, the piston has a taper, maybe you misspoke? I will normally put the rod in a vise on a wood soft jaw T jig to keep the piston from moving on the pin when putting on rings for ease of assembly
Hey I feel special! Lol. Me and my pops are about to rebuild a 72 440 longblock he scored for almost nothing. Looks great but haven't had it magnafluxed, yet. We're planning on putting it into our 66 sport fury, or (forgive the blasphemy) my 78 lil red. I watched all of these vids so I had a better grasp of the 440. We have a couple of big jobs coming up so I hope we can knock this thing out soon. Them h beam rods and kb pistons though. 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 I was watching this at the bar, never caught the crank specs? Trying to talk the old man into a stroker. Thanks for the reply in advance, and we'll post some shit when we get it going. Love the info!
Hi Pete, I watched the install of piston 1 and 2 a couple times and wanted to confirm the orientation of the rods to each other. Piston 1's chamfer goes towards the counterweight, leaving the flat side over the middle of the journal. I assume that means piston 2 is reversed 180 degrees so that it's chamfer is against the other counterweight and it's flat side us next to piston 1's flat side. Then re-pete..haha. is that correct?
I am not certain I am following the planning phase. You bought .040 over pistons but the you needed to bore the block at least .038 to get rid of the lip. If you chose your piston before knowing the block needed to be bored that much, could you be risking having undersized pistons? I may be misunderstanding what you're saying but it sounded like you purchased the pistons prior to having any machining or measurement done on the cylinder. Just wondering how more about that particular step, whether you measured first or knew you were going with the .040 pistons to begin with.
A@ 8:40 that's not an oil hole/ that hole is for use in aluminum rod with pins / yes you have to put bearing in to match radius on crank journal on after market cranks
Hey! How are you? I'm rebuilding a 5.7 hemi I bring the pistons and rods to a old man to put it together I went to pick up and 4 pistons moved freely like the one you holding showing the size of pistons and the other 4 are little tight its ok like that or what I need to do? Thanks!
Do you ever rotate the rear main seal so the joints are not at 3 and 9 o'clock level with the block? I'm assembling my 225 /six right now and I am really wanting to get it right so no more leaks.
Pete, you missed one of the most important things about building a SB or Big Block Mopar. The #4 cam bearing has to be indexted to match the 3 holes that allows for oil to go to the heads and the rocker arm shaft in order to oil the rocker arm and push rods. Failure to do this will not allow oil to one head and very little to the other. I have seen this a couple of time where the machcine shop did not do this and the engine had to be tore down and the cam bearing indexted to the correct orientation. Very important to put a light in the #4 crank journal and down the oil passage on top of the block between the #3 and #4 cylinder holes. If you do not see the light, the bearing is not installed correctly and should be replaced.
Could you please tell us what exact KB pistons they are, and how you came to pick these for the build? Anything you can explain about quench properties in the BB Mopars, and why the compression ratio was held beloe10-1/2 to 1? Thanks! gret videos, and super clean shop!
I am so sorry Sir, Please when you are ready get another dog a true gift from heaven. If you like small dog, Australian cattle dog a good watch dog and full energy. I could see you with a Rhodesian Ridgeback to watch the garage. Please check the rescues.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 85 | คู่เอก "ยอดเหล็กเพชร vs ผึ้งหลวง"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qq_19bnnxEo/mqdefault.jpg)
Pete, you are a lifesaver! My 16 year old son wants to rebuild a 440 and I have never tore an engine down. Your videos are giving me the confidence to give it a go. Thank you for making these videos!
You're welcome, you can do it
Awesome.
Pete you are the real deal, thanks for the education.
Thank you so much my friend
I watched your videos for my latest Chrysler build. Saved me from making some real bad mistakes. Thanks for everything bro.
No problem 👍
Your professional manner is appreciated. Keep up the great videos.
Thank you Paul
I miss doing this, that was the good days, now days its just small engines for me. But at least it's still an engine. I build some pretty snappy small air cooled engines for go-karts & mini-bikes.
Now that is really cool. Once an engine guy always an engine guy
Now that is really cool. Once an engine guy always an engine guy
Going to have to remember to rewatch all of these 440 videos when I crack open my 440 for some work.
Invincible Extremes Muscle Cars Garage Yup, Same here.
I plan to build a 451 when done with my current sb project.
TheProchargedmopar nice! I love the 400 blocks.
You are a well educated man and my inspiration to know as much about different engines!
Thank you my friend
Thanks guy, your vids are becoming a family thing here. please more roadster vids
Family is the most important. I'll get back to the Roadster when I finish this one. Follow my Facebook page for Roadster updates
A tip on installing the rings on Pistons
To make installation go “smoother” place your ring kit in the oven and set at WARM…150 to 160 degrees is all that is needed.
Pull out one bank at a time and install
They go on like butter
DO NOT check a ring gap with a warm ring, this should be done as a separate process before installation
Ring gap should always be checked with a cold ring and block
Interesting, does the manufacturer recommend this?
@@PetesGarage I’m not sure about ring manufactures position on warming ring sets before installation but since the products will “experience” a constant “working temperature” HUNDREDS of degrees higher when the engine is in service I’m not sure there is reason for concern here.
My Dad and his hotrod buddies did this trick in the 50’s and 60’s and he taught me to do it.
All your trying to do, is after you have done all your final ring inspection, gap filing etc.
Is make the rings go on the pistons “smoother” so they are less likely to be bent or broken during installation without damaging the piston
This also makes them a bit easier to “clock” when not cold.
Beautiful block and piston thanks pete for the morning coffee.
Great way to start the day
Awesome work Pete, I am sure this engine will run for ever, lucky owner
It runs awesome!
Awesome videos. I am in the planning phase of building my 440 now. Thanks for taking the time to make these.
Have fun!
Excellent presentation as always Pete. 👍
Thanks my friend
Pete I’ve watched quite a few of your videos and I believe this is the first time I’ve seen you clock the oil scraper rings. Correct me if I’m wrong. I’m sure you did but it just caught my attention this time around. Thanks for sharing as always. You and stay safe and well Artie 🇺🇸😊
Good eye, but I do it on every engine
Pete good video on putting in the pistons from what you said about the ring manufacturer I'll be using them.
I've never had a problem with them
Also double check the rod bolt torque spec. 40 ft/lbs sounds like the torque spec for the stock 3/8" bolts. I think the Eagle rods have the 7/16" cap screws that take 60+ ft/lbs of torque?
I owe you a beer Jim! I looked at the wrong spec. The card had both bolts but separated. The torque is 63 ft. lbs. Send me an email with your address and I'll send you a t-shirt. thank you
Wow what a catch
instant subscribe after just a couple minutes of first vid in series...awesome job
Thank you my friend
Wishing you all lots of love and happiness for the holidays and beyond Pete.I love your videos I am a grateful towel
Thank you Curtis, same to you my friend
Hi Pete, great videos. I'm always looking for new sources of advice when rebuilding, and just found your channel. I have few questions.
First, from the beginning of this video series, and someone else has previously asked this, how much block cleaning & prep do you do on a used factory block like this prior to sending it out to the shop? I always chase and clean every hole, open up the oil passages and run pipe bushes through them. I will cut ends off the pipe brushes to chuck them in a drill and clean passages almost like using a hone. I also use a small die grinder with rotary file bits to clean up any excess iron flashing on the block and smooth all the drain passages to aid in oil return. At 9:07 in this video it looks like there's a bit of flashing in the center lifter valley. This is just for regular street engines, my thought is better oil return and drainage will reduce oil sludge and build-up when the motor cools down after use.
Finally, something I haven't tried, but have thought about as I've seen painted internal cases at work (power plant). Have you ever considered painting the inside of the engine for improved oil drainage?
Tom
Great comment Tom. I don't do too much cleanup, unless there is some major flashing or the customer is paying for a show engine. The machine shop removes all of the plugs and bakes out all of the oil so it's spotless. Saves me a lot of time and aggravation.
Keep up the good work!
just a note here so nobody gets confused, on most of the production engines the bearing with the hole goes on the rod, because that's how you oil the piston pin
That is true. You have to check. The rods I'm using do not have that hole, but matter for location.
This was a question I was going to ask.
I’m building a smallblock 360 and will have to look at my eagle rods as it has full floaters.
Very nice video, well done clear explanations. My only question is the method you use to increase the ring gap if you need to. I have tried a hand file and a hand held grinder but I can never get the ring gap to be of constant gap, it always seems to be crooked looking (Uneven gap). One time this bothered me so much I bought another set of rings to practice on. Also a grinding wheel can get the ring red hot at the end, doesn't this change the rings hardness for the worse? Luckily the majority of the repairs I did (on my own engines) were ok as they came out of the box. I still have a lot to learn and your videos I can follow quite well and learn a lot from your experience.
Thank you Joe. If you need to open up the gap, you can get a cheap ring file like this one www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-906795?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=CjwKCAiA0IXQBRA2EiwAMODil6kJ-UZqjt6-H2Y8HyhTtfa4OdRtIa7N1md5Gi2PhKiSrVlx1JBVdxoCcBQQAvD_BwE
Pete, really enjoyed this segment of the build. I have a rookie question. Is there a gap that needs to be set between the rod caps on each crank journal, prior to doing the final torque on the bolts?
Excellent question. Yes, I should have covered that. I'll make it up in a future video
Pete's Garage thanks for answering my question. Your channel is top notch. Great videos
Hi Pete!
Love your videos :)
I have a 351w in a 68 Fastback mustang. It puts out over 450 hp and is supercharged.
The problem is that i dont think its tought through when they built it. Cause i dont think it runs right, and when i got the parts list of the prev owner, it didn't seem right.
Im on the verge of wanting to just rebuild the whole thing, leaving only the block left, if its crack free and i good shape.
I have a few alternatives i want to do:
stay with the 351 cid, but build it for a supercharger.
OR
Bore and stroke it out, to either 408 or 427 cid, but leave the supercharger out of it.
What do you think of these 3 alternatives?
Thanks!
For a 351 you don't need the supercharge unless you just like the look. Bore and stroke to 408 and you can still get the 450hp
So I thought that std size is the stock bore size, and oversized is the .020, .030, etc. Or am I missing what you were saying there? Also is it always the case with the rod bearings having the hole for the bottom? Seems like my Nissan was the opposite, but I could be wrong?
Some bearings fit several applications. That's why there is a hole in one half. On a Nissan the bearing with the hole might go into the rod instead of the cap. There is usually a matching hole in the rod also for pin or piston oiling.
Shaun Griffin he should have said off the shelf.
For a 440 the stock pistons off the shelf come in those over-sizes. Bearings vary quite a bit. Sometimes they are orientation specific, sometime location specific. Just make sure they're in right. If you're taking an engine apart, take pictures so you can remember how they go back in.
Another excellent instalment. With regards to the piston ring gapping, if it came with .010 clearance and you needed to open it up abit, is there a side that you favour (bigger or smaller) or would you just split it down the middle? Obviously application dependant, but for this engine say.
I tend to favor the smaller side. less gap the better. Thanks John
The old factory type rear main seals if I remember correctly were once made out of some type of felt material or something and you would dip them in mineral spirits or other light oil. You would put the seals in the grooves and install the cap quickley as then the seals would swell up after you installed the rear main cap. It would be a very tight seal.
Yup, those worked well.
I believe it was hemp rope. Someone correct me, but I heard that ages ago.
just a bit of trivia, notice the holes in the rod bearings? they allow oil to get in between the rod and the bearing, why? because only on start up does your rod actually ride on the bearing, otherwise it's riding on a very thin bead of oil, which is why oil changes are so important. Since my old man passed away 10 years ago i haven't touched any of our mopars (we have quite a few that we were working on from a 36 Plymouth coupe to a dodge 330 polara race car). It's moments like this that make want to go back to it but after i start i just don't have the heart.
Interesting. If the rod rides on the bearing, how does it go over the lock notch?
@@PetesGarage i don't think i was very clear. The rod journal rides on a thin "sheet" of oil on the crank. both rod bearings with oil between them and the crank which acts like a "pillow" for the rod to around and this is what amazes me, such engineering is just wonderful (guess cause i'm into machinist stuff). It's kinda like why those old blocks were always cast iron (or better said, one of the advantages of using cast iron). That cast Iron acts like a sponge and helps keep oil at the piston from the cylinder wall. Like i was trying to point out, it's amazing engineering. (I'm not even talking about the amazing things found in the racing world either). Hope that made my statement clearer. :)
Those rods are stout. Pete, nice work as always. I'm using the KB162 for my 383 what is your experience with these in a B deck? Thank you
Those are pretty good, should work out well.
fantastic!
I had never seen a rear main seal like that. I see all kinds of oddities by watching a variety of engines being rebuilt.
Yeah....engines vary quite a bit
I didnt scroll through all the comments so maybe this was answered. Noobie question...if those are new rod assemblies, why are they marked with the cylinder number? Thank you!
They are all build and fitted to a cylinder. They are marked so they go right back in the spot they were fitted for.
Pete, I am pretty sure the 2nd ring is bevel side down not up. I use the same Total Seal rings. If you read the instructions it actually says if there is no dot install bevel side down.. left side of the orange instructions - conventional rings. 7.31 into your video. And number 6 piston doesn't look correct at 17.21 it appears you have an inlet and exhaust together ? Usually the valve recess is ex-in-in-ex-ex-in-in-ex.. Did this myself not long ago and realized after I buttoned up the sump.... ;-)
BINGO! Not only are you correct, I Love my Strat! You were the only person to catch that piston ring. I actually fixed both of those items after I made the video. TH-cam use to allow me to add annotations so I uploaded the video and wanted to add a correction right on the video at that point. Well, they changed the options and I can no longer add an annotation. The only way to correct that is to upload a new video. I'm trying to do something about it. Email your address and I'll send you a t-shirt.
Strato caster bevel is like an hour glass / bevel up top ring / bevel down bottom ring unless you have 3 ring tall deck Chevy truck piston then you have 3rd comp ring
Great stuff as always. Thanks.
What happened at 13:12? To an untrained eye like mine it looks like this would scratch the inner cylinder wall quite good.
You have a great eye. That ring compressor is on there really tight. When the piston drops in the compressor closes pretty quick. It is not harder than the block so it will not scratch.
Great vids. Sub'd. I will use these when rebuilding the 440 for my '70 Satellite. I have a few questions. What did you use for lube on the pistons when you started assembling them into the block? Just WD40? What brand of assembly lube were you using on the bearings? Thank you. Great job on explanations.
Thank you Mark, and welcome. I use WD40 to help get the pistons through the ring compressor, but I lube the cylinders with the same motor oil I'm running in the engine. I use JD Blood lube but any PTFE assembly lube is good.
Since when is the bore tapered? I've been boring cylinders for decades and I have never bored them tapered, the piston
has a taper, maybe you misspoke? I will normally put the rod in a vise on a wood soft jaw T jig to keep the piston from
moving on the pin when putting on rings for ease of assembly
Depending on who does the machining and how they do it, the top of the bore can have a slight taper. I've measured up to .001" within 1" from the top.
@@PetesGarage It can have a slight taper but not by design - only if it's not bored/honed properly.
so in difference what would be cheaper to build your engine from part to part or just buy a crate engine?
It depends what you are trying to do. If you want to keep the same engine with the car you rebuild it.
Very important to make sure your rods clean..... Very.
Always
Hey I feel special! Lol. Me and my pops are about to rebuild a 72 440 longblock he scored for almost nothing. Looks great but haven't had it magnafluxed, yet. We're planning on putting it into our 66 sport fury, or (forgive the blasphemy) my 78 lil red. I watched all of these vids so I had a better grasp of the 440. We have a couple of big jobs coming up so I hope we can knock this thing out soon.
Them h beam rods and kb pistons though. 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
I was watching this at the bar, never caught the crank specs? Trying to talk the old man into a stroker.
Thanks for the reply in advance, and we'll post some shit when we get it going. Love the info!
It's an Eagle
444041506760
4.15" stroker
And lubed well lol
Hi Pete, I watched the install of piston 1 and 2 a couple times and wanted to confirm the orientation of the rods to each other. Piston 1's chamfer goes towards the counterweight, leaving the flat side over the middle of the journal. I assume that means piston 2 is reversed 180 degrees so that it's chamfer is against the other counterweight and it's flat side us next to piston 1's flat side. Then re-pete..haha. is that correct?
That is correct
I am not certain I am following the planning phase. You bought .040 over pistons but the you needed to bore the block at least .038 to get rid of the lip. If you chose your piston before knowing the block needed to be bored that much, could you be risking having undersized pistons? I may be misunderstanding what you're saying but it sounded like you purchased the pistons prior to having any machining or measurement done on the cylinder. Just wondering how more about that particular step, whether you measured first or knew you were going with the .040 pistons to begin with.
Sorry about the confusion. I measured first. I knew it would clean up and hone to .040" over.
Thanks Pete
You got it my friend
A@ 8:40 that's not an oil hole/ that hole is for use in aluminum rod with pins / yes you have to put bearing in to match radius on crank journal on after market cranks
Thank you very much for the comment
Check the piston valve reliefs! #5 looks wrong from the photo.
Looks like #5 & #6 pistons are swapped?
It's an optical illusion. The rods and pistons are assembled and numbered by the machine shop.
I there not a chance a little piece of debris could come off the hammer when you use it to hit the cap?
There's always a chance of anything. But that's why you pay attention and blow out the parts often.
I watched your cam degreeing vid and that engine had flat tops in it with valve reliefs.
Now you're putting in dished pistons????
Different heads, different HP requirements
@@PetesGarage So, on the other engine with the flat-tops with reliefs, did you use open chamber heads
and if so how did you come to a piston choice?
They were open chamber and the pistons were chose to get the compression ratio for pump gas
Pretty cool dude
Thanks my friend
Wow Pete I learned so much from this you have no idea. Thank you
That is awseome! I'm happ y to help
Hey!
How are you?
I'm rebuilding a 5.7 hemi
I bring the pistons and rods to a old man to put it together
I went to pick up and 4 pistons moved freely like the one you holding showing the size of pistons and the other 4 are little tight its ok like that or what I need to do?
Thanks!
They should all be the same, take them back
Do you ever rotate the rear main seal so the joints are not at 3 and 9 o'clock level with the block? I'm assembling my 225 /six right now and I am really wanting to get it right so no more leaks.
By the way, your TH-cam series has single-handedly helped me go from a rookie to a semi-rookie. :)
Rotating the seal is a good idea, I've done that with the old, rope style seals. It wouldn't hurt
Pete, you missed one of the most important things about building a SB or Big Block Mopar. The #4 cam bearing has to be indexted to match the 3 holes that allows for oil to go to the heads and the rocker arm shaft in order to oil the rocker arm and push rods. Failure to do this will not allow oil to one head and very little to the other. I have seen this a couple of time where the machcine shop did not do this and the engine had to be tore down and the cam bearing indexted to the correct orientation. Very important to put a light in the #4 crank journal and down the oil passage on top of the block between the #3 and #4 cylinder holes. If you do not see the light, the bearing is not installed correctly and should be replaced.
Absolutely correct. My machine shop takes care of that. In my later video about priming the oil pump I talk about that.
Harold
Bill, your comment did not post.
Thanks Pete, I hope that viewers read this very important step.
I like your a work
Thank you
Hey Pete what was the final compression ratio on this 440?
I believe it was 9.5:1 dynamic
Could you please tell us what exact KB pistons they are, and how you came to pick these for the build? Anything you can explain about quench properties in the BB Mopars, and why the compression ratio was held beloe10-1/2 to 1? Thanks! gret videos, and super clean shop!
KB Piston IC822030. I have used them before. I held down the compression ratio to run on pump gas. I'd have to make a video about quench properties.
Who's billet rear main seal cap is that, Pete??
I got that one a 440source
Thanks for the video, Where is Shelby the dog ?
She got sick and had to be put to sleep last summer, I miss her.
I am so sorry Sir, Please when you are ready get another dog a true gift from heaven. If you like small dog, Australian cattle dog a good watch dog and full energy. I could see you with a Rhodesian Ridgeback to watch the garage. Please check the rescues.
Again yes Eagle rods but no model # mentioned or Crank specks or manufacture mentioned
Thanks
The cylinder should not be taper however.
Some cylinders are tapered quite a bit.
good job
What your address on Facebook and do you video about rebuilt transmission
facebook.com/PetesGarageBuffalo/
I do not do transmissions
L2304 .030 0ver Pistons place Pistons in
I don't know about using extensions when doing torque on rod bolts .thats scary
You can use an extension if the tensile strength of the material is greater than the torsional force applied
@@PetesGarage was good videos series on the 440 build .enjoyed very much keep up the good content dude
Never had luck with those rear main seals. I moved to the old school graphite rope seals 😉
They are difficult
OMG, he lubed his cleaned rod. That seems so wrong.
The horror
Are you a south paw? That's a lefty guitar hanging on the wall back there. lol
I sure am
@@PetesGarage Great series on the 440. I want to build one for my 69 Roadrunner. The one in it is getting a bit dogged out.
Thanks Joseph, that's a fun project
TOYOTA CAMRY
very helpful calm voice explanation clear great thankyou
Thanks John