Hi Pete. Beautiful paint job from the master! I read the thread from your previous video regarding the torque specs being wrong that was picked up by a viewer. I always admire your honesty if you make a mistake as you are never afraid to admit it publicly unlike some others. Looking forward to the rest of the build. 😀👍
Hey I am 17, and I have seen almost every video of yours, I am glad that your making videos for a fun/educational purpose. They teach a lot, and are cool to watch, thank you.
I tend to wait until completely dry then use a small hobbist exacto knife (buy from a hobby / model store) to avoid chipping the paint. Will try your method next time I spray.
Hey Pete really enjoy your videos I did notice when you torqued the rods you had a extension don't know if that was the finial torque but I was taught that when torqueing a bolt to use only a socket
That could be true. It depends on the size of the fastener, the final torque, the diameter and material of the extension. But yes, always try to use just the socket.
I use robots all the time. I can tell you that robots are not good for painting applications. I can paint the whole engine before I could get the programming done.
Your videos are amazing, currently in my 20s and looking at going into the mechanical or electrical trade. Watching your videos really helped me understand engines a lot better. Great detail and No bs. That's a great colour for the bloke. Looks awesome :)
You can do both. I was a licensed mechanic at a GM dealer, at the time they had no one that could do electronics and electrical so I started to do it during my apprenticeship. I did everything from trailer wiring (yawn) to diagnosing chassis electrical, engine drivability, drivetrain electrical / electronic controlled systems like fuel, transmission using the coolest diag tools and getting sent to all kinds of new product training. These are lifelong skills you will have forever once learned, you should totally do it.
Thanks for the great videos Pete! I'm a new subscriber from New Zealand I have a 72 Dodge Charger with a warmed over 440 which I plan put a stroker in so your videos are awesome thanks again!
Question.. what if I could possibly paint my engine while it's still in the Engine Bay.. ĺd like to know if I can still paint and still have a good job come out of it..??.
@@PetesGarage Tanks for the quick reply Pete.. So, of course who and where do I get thid brush on paint from..??.. I tried Oreillys, and AutoZone and they don't stock any of these Paints with Brushes.. Can you advise me where to go for the Paint Products... Again it's your help and support for bringing my Dodge Van it's New Life...
Hi Pete, Is there a rattle can self etching and high heat primer in one? I can only seem to find one or the other. Will the self etch rattle can primer stand up to block temperatures?
Pete, I'm stumped. I live in California and these paints are not available here. In fact, I went to buy mineral spirits at home depot and they don't have it because it became illegal in the last 6 months since I bought it last. I have the block clean and masked off but now not sure what to use for primer.
I used the high temp primer and Mopar paint. Came out very nice, hope it lasts. Thanks for the input, keep up those videos. Wouldn't have had the confidence to do it without them.
Pete, I got my 440 back from the machine shop. Magnafluxed, bored, decked and line honed. What's the best way to get the residual magnaflux of the outside of the block? I'd like to get it off and give it a light coat of paint to keep it from rusting while I take my time to assemble it. Thanks!
do you spray the lacquer thinner on the engine or just use rags? Seems like it might take a while to get all the crevices and do a good job of stripping the old stuff.
I took every shop class there was. In auto shop I pulled the engine out of my car to work on the sub-frame. Other kids in my class had no idea and were amazed. I'd be shocked if you could pull a kid out of high school and have them change a tire.
Was wondering Pete if you can tell my why the newer engines of today last much more longer. In many cases over 200,000 miles compared to engines of old lasting if you were lucky 100,000
I can absolutely tell you why. An engine before say, 1999 was manufactured to tolerances in thousandths, usually .002" to ".005" clearance. Modern engines are manufactured with tolerances in microns, internal parts are made to a better level of consistent quality and the materials are superior. Some new engines use a 0 weight oil because clearances are so tight. Better materials, more precision, repeatable manufacturing, and testing standards produce a better product. Some old engines were actually designed to leak. New engines are closer to watches when the older ones were closer to pipe wrenches.
Hi Pete. Beautiful paint job from the master! I read the thread from your previous video regarding the torque specs being wrong that was picked up by a viewer. I always admire your honesty if you make a mistake as you are never afraid to admit it publicly unlike some others. Looking forward to the rest of the build. 😀👍
Thanks my friend. There is no way I can learn, or encourage others to learn if I don't share the mistakes.
great information, I'm getting ready to build my 1966 Chrysler imperial 440 engine myself ,first time wish me luck. Thanks
You can do it!
Awesome video Pete. I just love how detailed and thorough you are!
Thank you so much my friend
Thanks for the great videos Pete especially building the 440 please continue the motor build videos thx
I'm working on it Anthony, thanks
That is an awesome orange for an engine, will look for your other paint videos. Thanks Pete.
It's a little different than the Chevy orange. I Like all the colors.
Man, I've learned so much from this series. Hats off!! Thank you!!
Awesome, thank you for watching
Video prior Pete no mention of pilot bushing for crankshaft for manual transmission. 👍
Thanks
Thanks for doing this series, Pete! Love it!BTW....nice under folder in the cabinet behind you during the intro! ;)
Thanks my friend... due to the high cost of ammo do not expect a warning shot
like your work....... that eastwood paint really looks great.....hello from canada....cheers
Thanks John
Great job on the paint. Looks terrific. Cant wait for the next vid. Wanna hear it run when it's finished.
Thanks my friend. It's moving along pretty quick. Should have it on the dyno soon.
Can you do a video showing more detail of mixing primer, resin, cure, harden, reducer, etc. Please
th-cam.com/video/2NDTPOnOcOc/w-d-xo.html
Hey I am 17, and I have seen almost every video of yours, I am glad that your making videos for a fun/educational purpose. They teach a lot, and are cool to watch, thank you.
Thanks Adam....I am just trying to help anyone who wants to learn
Excellent vid and great advice, esp on your tips about when to remove the masking tape. Thumbs up!
Thanks, it's always a question about when to remove it.
I tend to wait until completely dry then use a small hobbist exacto knife (buy from a hobby / model store) to avoid chipping the paint. Will try your method next time I spray.
Hey Pete really enjoy your videos I did notice when you torqued the rods you had a extension don't know if that was the finial torque but I was taught that when torqueing a bolt to use only a socket
That could be true. It depends on the size of the fastener, the final torque, the diameter and material of the extension. But yes, always try to use just the socket.
Almost as good as a robot maybe you will get one sometime.great video interesting thank you
I use robots all the time. I can tell you that robots are not good for painting applications. I can paint the whole engine before I could get the programming done.
Looks nice. I'll have to try that Eastwood paint on my engine.
I've always gotten very good results
Nice paint job .
Thanks for the video, Keep warm, spring coming soon.
I know.....gotta get stuff ready for the road.
The man is a genius.
I'm not sure about that, I just like to share information.
Great video Pete
Your videos are amazing, currently in my 20s and looking at going into the mechanical or electrical trade. Watching your videos really helped me understand engines a lot better. Great detail and No bs. That's a great colour for the bloke. Looks awesome :)
Thank you my friend. Good for you! Great choice. Work hard and you'll never regret it.
You can do both. I was a licensed mechanic at a GM dealer, at the time they had no one that could do electronics and electrical so I started to do it during my apprenticeship. I did everything from trailer wiring (yawn) to diagnosing chassis electrical, engine drivability, drivetrain electrical / electronic controlled systems like fuel, transmission using the coolest diag tools and getting sent to all kinds of new product training. These are lifelong skills you will have forever once learned, you should totally do it.
Thanks for the great videos Pete! I'm a new subscriber from New Zealand I have a 72 Dodge Charger with a warmed over 440 which I plan put a stroker in so your videos are awesome thanks again!
Thank Mike, a stroker adds a few complications, but don't let that stop you.
Hey Pete GREAT videos, have you ever done stroker kits for the GEN-3 HEMI 6.1 liter HEMI?? Thanks.
Thanks Robert, I have not
Sooooo the rattle cans will do just a good a job as the paint in the gun? I don’t have a gun but I want a hardy finish. That block looks amazing
I'm sorry to say a rattle can is not the same as a 2k paint out of a gun, but, you can buy the same 2k paint in a can from Eastwood.
Pete's Garage I couldn’t find the Hemi orange you used in the Aerospray can on the Eastwood site. Do you have idea where else I could purchase it?
That hemi orange is tough to find. You can't borrow or rent a small spray gun?
Looks great.
Great video nice finish
So far so good
Nice!!
Good info video Pete.
Question.. what if I could possibly paint my engine while it's still in the Engine Bay.. ĺd like to know if I can still paint and still have a good job come out of it..??.
Sure, it will just take more time
@@PetesGarage Tanks for the quick reply Pete.. So, of course who and where do I get thid brush on paint from..??.. I tried Oreillys, and AutoZone and they don't stock any of these Paints with Brushes.. Can you advise me where to go for the Paint Products... Again it's your help and support for bringing my Dodge Van it's New Life...
go to eastwood.com
Great work thanks
Thanks Ty
Hi Pete, Is there a rattle can self etching and high heat primer in one? I can only seem to find one or the other. Will the self etch rattle can primer stand up to block temperatures?
Primer is a 2 part paint so it will no be good in a rattle can. Try a hobby store
Pete, I'm stumped. I live in California and these paints are not available here. In fact, I went to buy mineral spirits at home depot and they don't have it because it became illegal in the last 6 months since I bought it last.
I have the block clean and masked off but now not sure what to use for primer.
Then you're stuck with whatever primer you can buy.. Rustoleum would be fine.
I used the high temp primer and Mopar paint. Came out very nice, hope it lasts. Thanks for the input, keep up those videos. Wouldn't have had the confidence to do it without them.
That will work fine, glad to help
Pete, I got my 440 back from the machine shop. Magnafluxed, bored, decked and line honed. What's the best way to get the residual magnaflux of the outside of the block? I'd like to get it off and give it a light coat of paint to keep it from rusting while I take my time to assemble it. Thanks!
Compressed air works best for me unless someone else has a better idea.
It's on there more than a powder, some suggest to mask off the cylinders and wash it off with dish detergent and water but I'm afraid of flash rust
Use mineral spirits
Great that makes sense, thanks!
do you spray the lacquer thinner on the engine or just use rags? Seems like it might take a while to get all the crevices and do a good job of stripping the old stuff.
It is a very slow process. I use brushes to get in the small places.
What gaskets do I need to install 1964 , 461 cast Heads onto a 1986 350 cubic inch Block.? Thanks in advance.
Call Fel Pro Tech support
I see many using PPG colour for painting. Is it only to use on the body off a mopar or engines too
You can use regular auto paint on an engine, just not on the heads, exhaust, or intake with a heat riser.
OK! so the Eastwood paint is what you recommend
I use it all the time
I wish high schools still did auto shop! When i went to high school back in the 80s we had auto shop and metal shop and wood shop .WHAT HAPPEND?
I took every shop class there was. In auto shop I pulled the engine out of my car to work on the sub-frame. Other kids in my class had no idea and were amazed. I'd be shocked if you could pull a kid out of high school and have them change a tire.
Like my dear ol departed grandfather told me...PUT THE PAINT WERE IT AIN'T
I love that!
Is the cast blast paint ok to leave on? I really like the color
Sure, it's fine to leave on.
thank man
Thanks dude
Was wondering Pete if you can tell my why the newer engines of today last much more longer. In many cases over 200,000 miles compared to engines of old lasting if you were lucky 100,000
I can absolutely tell you why. An engine before say, 1999 was manufactured to tolerances in thousandths, usually .002" to ".005" clearance. Modern engines are manufactured with tolerances in microns, internal parts are made to a better level of consistent quality and the materials are superior. Some new engines use a 0 weight oil because clearances are so tight. Better materials, more precision, repeatable manufacturing, and testing standards produce a better product. Some old engines were actually designed to leak. New engines are closer to watches when the older ones were closer to pipe wrenches.
❤️🔧🚗🏁🔥
👊
Where can I buy the Amercoat 385 primer?
Any commercial Sherwin Williams dealer. But it is expensive and only comes in gallons.
Looks like orange tooling gelcoat, lol!!!
It looks like it, but it tastes way different....lol