Experiment convert 110v to 220v from two outlets
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- Warning, This is only an experiment for viewing purposes only! By watching this You agree that "Joshua Burton" is not held responsible for your actions.
This is my successful experiment to make an adapter to convert two 120v outlets to 220v!
With that said I used two 12ga. heavy duty extension cords and triple checked my connections and wiring.
Thank you. Everyone else tends to over complicate things. A 220v circuit is literally just 2 110v hots. So when you combine 2 110v hot outlets your going to get a 220v outlet. Awesome video!
Nice work Joshua. I little overkill on the 10gauge wire and 50A receptacle, but functional. This will work just fine using 15A 110v circuits as long as you don't try to draw more than 15A. It is good practice to directly ground the box (even though it is grounded through the plug bracket.)
Ok... I've watched this and have been reading the comments because I was curious if it would be worthwhile documenting my implementation of such a 'conversion'. I have to laugh at the lack of knowledge many commenters have. This definitely works when the 2 15A/120V circuits are taken from opposing 'Hot' wires of a single phase 240V source (such as standard North American residential power.) It really isn't 'converting' anything, it is simply providing a connection to the original 240V source providing power to the 120V circuits. Think of it as putting the 2 halves of the 240V back together (because that is exactly what it is!) There is no "NOT true" 240V AC here.
The Electrical Code does in fact cover some things not 'hard wired' into your electrical system and it could be argued that this adapter violates 400-8(1) of the NEC because it is used "As a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure", but this is a weak argument and doesn't fall within the intended scope of that clause. I have yet to see anything in the code beyond that clause that limits what you can and cannot plug into the fixed wiring of the structure.
The risk is that, as some have mentioned, when you overload the system one of the breakers will trip leaving one side of your plug hot. A small safety issue but only if you go into the wiring without unplugging the device. And, often functionally equivalent to switching off the piece of 240v equipment. Simple solution is mitigate this is to tie the breakers.
So Joshua, again, kudos on your experiment! You have motivated me to document my implementation.
First I am not an electrician but I do like the experiment you did. I am in need of a device like this so I think it was great what you did here. I know it’s not something that’s done all the time but it does work. So great job in proving that it does work.
I just want to applaud your effort. Scientific breakthroughs started from experiments like these.
scientific break though !!!!! lmao ... it was already done over 100 years ago ,
The ranting "commenters" really get tiresome. It's so easy to scream in caps "You'll kill someone." "You'll start a fire." Take it for what the man said it was - an experiment - and just click over and watch something else. Ranting to make yourself look like an expert seems to always do the opposite.
ahh!! Thank You!!!!!!
agreed
It gets old when I see hear a person BITCHING about CAPS! Get over your tiresome always bitching about a person USEING CAPS!!!!! GROW UP! Its part of the keyboard function. CAPS-PHOBIA? You are the ranting police or the caps police? What gets old is I read the things on TH-cam so I can learn something but I always run into some person or chronic bitcher who has a PHOBIA! They have medication for that.
ARRRGGGG!!! ALLL CAPPPSSSS!!! IM AN EXPERT! YAY KIDDOS!
You're a man after my own heart lol the idea popped into my brain after seeing a 220 air compressor I want, and you did exactly what I was going to do! Good job man! Subscribed
Good idea. Most of the houses in my country are 110v (Nicaragua) I wanted to know how to run a 220v mini split with my house being 110v. I still have no clue, but what you showed is by far more information than the one I found through a google search. Thanks!
Just because you have a light on your tester does not mean you had 240 I recently had a hot wire that test hot and even 120 but when I connected a porch light to it I dropped to 20 volts showing a neutral short so I believe in using a muti meter to determine correct voltage and keep in mind a neutral short on any of your cords or boxes they are plugged in to or plugs down the line could cause you problems or even harm this is not even a good experiment
I live in US have had joint the 110v circuit into 220v for my mini split air conditioner. It is the same as this video, but I did it in the circuit breaker.
If your neighbor is has free electricity (or stolen), then you could connect a very long second extension cord to a regulator or surge protector then to his wall outlet. When that is done, connect your primary extension cord to your extra regulator or surge protector and plug both extension cords to this adapter so that you can power up a 220v welder, good luck. Of course you will have to flip the two regulator or surge protector switches back on when they automatically turn off.
Materials: adapter (like this), two surge protectors (or regulators or use 1 regulator and one surge protector) and two extension cords (2x 110v extension cords=220v)
Thank you for your instructional video. After Hurricane past over Puerto Rico the island is suffering a massive blackout. I replicated your experiment successfully to use a small inverter generator and give elctricity to all my house. of course in safety way with a transfer switch only for essential equipment like refrigerator, TV and lights.
Hey!
This worked perfectly, I used this to power an electric dryer in my loft. so far no upsets. Thank you for the video!!
TO ANYONE who wants to try this, I only recommend that you have atleast moderate knowledge of electrical experience. This does work though. I had to use a 220 dryer in my home and only had 110, I found two separate outlets than ran off separate 15 amp breakers, I also made it so both breakers tripped if one did, this is a must. I took heavy duty extension cords cut them up, made it to plug into each outlet and basically made a Y cord.. I did not have a 220 female so I just cut the end off of the 220 dryer and wired it straight to the Y cord I made and the dryer works just fine! And to all the people talking about it's not up to code, the code was put in effect for people like you that don't know anything. To keep idiots from killing innocent people. Just be smart be safe, think twice before you do and your good to go. And forget about all these whiny bitches on here!!!
James Nemeth Exactly!
I did the same thing with a clothes dryer and it's been doing fine for years. The only difference is I used a roll of Romex house wire instead of extension cords. Same difference though. Was cheaper to make my own cords at the time.
Friggin rights boys friggin rights
I did this exact thing that you did , but I used the 6-20 220v receptacle that matched my 1978 craftsman compressor. It's 3 hp motor 30 gallon compressor and it runs fine . I used two 20amp 110v receptacles on different sides of my breaker box to hook to.
I used this method to power my ole lady's antique vibrator...jeezus phuC...it kicked it a notch with the extra ground wires! DAMN!
Would this work with two 120v generator to get 240v from the two separated small 120v
generators 🤔🤔
This is a common workaround when a 220v plug is not available. Carpenters with 220v table saws have done it for years.
Every dwelling has a minimum of two hots and a neutral coming in off the pole. 2 insulated conductors and a bare aluminum - check it out. (Rarely you see three hots - that's another discussion) The ground is created by the ground stake outside of the breaker panel.The ground and neutral are tied together inside the breaker panel. 110v outlets have a hot (black), a neutral (white), and a ground. Half of your 110v outlets use hot #1 and the other half use hot #2. All the neutrals connect together at the breaker panel. Your 220v outlets (like a dryer) have hot #1, hot #2, a neutral, and a ground (usually).
The reason you got no voltage indication when you tested across two of the same hots is because there was no voltage difference between them - the same as sticking both probes in the same hole.
Some portable carpet cleaners that run on 220v actually have two 110v extensions cords wired into them, and a light on the front that comes on once you plug the cords into 110v outlets that utilize opposing hots (to yield 220v).
The only real danger involved in this workaround is that if you plug in one cord with the power switch of the 220v device turned on, the hot blade of the other plug will indeed be hot and will shock you if you touch both blades on that plug at the same time. It would be the same as cutting the receptacle off one end of an extension cord and installing a plug instead so you have a plug on each end of the cord. Plug one end into a wall outlet and touch both blades on the other end and it'll shock the fire out of you.
It IS an unorthodox workaround. You won't start a fire. If you overload the circuit you'll just trip a breaker or two. But it can be an easy shock hazard if you don't pay attention.
Im keeping fully in mind this is not up to code and other repercussions if used. I would like to know is it wise if i did one like this to run a 220v clothes dryer and plug the other two ends in my standard wall plug? I live in a apt with no dedicated 220v haha..... Suggestions? And do advertised power converters work good for this?
Should work fine. The trick is to find two 110 outlets on opposite hot wires. You won't find a converter with enough amperage to run a dryer off a single 110 circuit.
+Justin Breithaupt ok gotcha will keep that in mind for sure
+Randy Blü Well unfortunately it will not work because the dryer requires 30A most household outlets are 15 or 20A. Unfortunately you do not double the Amps this way you are still limited to what the outlets provides and is wired for.
Check them when running. They only pull about 18 amps.
Great experiment. I've been sitting here scratching my head trying to figure something out to use a RV 1:10 to 2 20 volt. But after I plugged into 110 side I didn't get the 220 that I was thinking on the other side. So I was trying to think of other ways and I said what why don't I Google it. Thanks again for making this video really helped out
So basically you have to find two 110V outlets that are 180 degrees out of phase so the gap between the two is 220V, since that's all voltage really is right, potential? Or did I get that mixed up?
Decades ago I did this in an apartment electrical lab I had in California. What CAN happen is an overload will trip one breaker and not the other breaker and thus one still have live power on one side after the breaker trips. It really is not anything sanctioned, or anything to code thus poor in an uncontrolled area. It is more of a hack that might backfire if you do something dumb.
From a liability standpoint your rear end can be sued off if somebody gets shocked or looses fingers in saw. From a code issue you are not suppose to have a 240 volt receptacle fed by two breakers not say ganged together with a "common trip" .
Thus what I did in my old lab was swap the positions of 2 circuit wires in the breaker box so the 2 circuits used were next to another, then I added a double pole breaker so a short or fault would turn off BOTH circuits I used on the 240 volt lab receptacle I once used from two 120 volt sockets.
When I moved out I removed the 240 volts double pole breaker and changed it back to the stock config so the landlord would not get me or my deposit too.
I don't have an available 240v outlet in my house and just bought a vintage tablesaw which is wired for 240v. I was itching to use it but HOW??? I saw your video! I liked it! I did it! Gonna keep on doing it! 👍👍
thankyou so much. trying to figure out how to power a 220v washer and dryer stackable. have been researching for days and you are the only one to do this. definitely trying.
Put in proper wiring and forget this crap.
Unless, of course, you actually Want to burn your home to the ground.
essentially this is all that you breaker box is doing isnt it? instead of running separate 110's it links 2 110s together at the box. Only difference would be that its limited to 20 amps (or 15?) right?
i believe if you have them from separate circuits and different 110 legs then it will give you whatever you have it rated on the breaker per 110 leg
Great video. I'm curious, is it possible to go the other way? Can you build a converter for a dryer plug to split into two 120v receptacles? Would you just build this in reverse, or does that create problems?
Absolutely they are readily available, but be careful that is a lot of power! www.amazon.com/Standard-Receptacle-110V-125V-Splitter-FX125V1475/dp/B084P5QG1X
I've done this as well. However, as Karl Miller states below, I did not have use of an electrical box and had to make due with electrical tape, a couple of sticks (to separate the wiring better) and a bit of prayer that none of my employees would tug the cords or try to unplug my mess. My power sources were two generators. Either way, it got me through a day of remote work where we needed a few welds (upright rebar braces) made on a construction job. Thanks for making this clear enough for those who are not quite sure.... In fact, I am here because I had to double check the connections myself.
This is awesome! I was thinking it might be fun to do some MIG welding in my apartment to make some furniture installations and it occurred to me that a pair of 110 outlets could be coupled to make the 220 supply- glad to see this confirmed, thanks for posting! I supposed the next step is to figure out what the draw on the arc welder is going to be vis a vis my breakers.
Lincoln and killer make 110vac mig welders.
Thank you a lot. I bought a dishwasher with a 220 v from italy but I only have 110 v. with your method I was able to get it to work and I didn't have to expend almost $100 buying a Volt converter step up. But it only worked because I have a brother living next to my house. I did use the negative (black ) a cable from his 110 and a 110 from my house connected to an outlet.
I’m trying to do the same in my house would it be safe for a dryer I have to different receptacles also.
you can check if 220v exists between circuits with a multimeter. the converter you have built will have either 120 or 220 if plugged into different outlets. no harm can come from plugging it into any outlet. The caveat here is that the circuits you are using are either 15 or 20 amp max and you cant use most large equipment on them.
Im pretty competent w DC wiring, AC not as much but would you not need to wire to each of the two different 110v legs of the AC input? Not just 2different circuits?
the neutrals you got rid of and it still worked but you broke the electrical circuit ?
Thank you very much! Exactly what I need to finish my electric chair... :D
@UnsanctionedFabrication -
1.did you say that you were using 110 volts from different breakers?
im trying to make one of these to use on one side of the house without using fro different breakers
2. ^would that work or would it trip my breaker?
ok, so here's the question... if you do this with two 110v 15a circuits, do you end up with 220v 15 amps or 30 amps?
Hello Joshua,
While I applaud your inventive idea, I feel compelled to caution you and anyone else who is thinking of repeating your experiment. You say that the two 120V outlets need to be from separate breaker boxes. This not exactly correct. Actually they need to be from different transformer winding outputs. The center-tapped transformer secondary that feeds the building with 220V split phase has two outputs. One output of this winding is called a service. The 220V output is fed to your breaker box and divided up into separate 120V, 20A services. Some of the 120 V services are connected to one transformer output and some are on the other output. You basically hit the lotto when you found the two outlets that are on different outputs and add up to 220V. You couldn't read 220V the first time you tried because both hot lines were at same voltage.I don't know if connecting this to a load would cause a problem or not, but why risk it? It seems to me it would be a lot less stressful to use an existing 220 VAC output or pay an electrician a few bucks to install a new one.
+Chuck Sampson To be completely clear on this what you get out of this assuming you are on different phases is essentially the same as the 220V lines that you have for things like your Dryer. You still have dangerous voltages that can easily kill you or start a fire or other problems, but as long as you have the box wired properly and closed off you get something very similar to a normal 220V line.
Additional information if you ignore the warnings and do this you should make sure that both breakers are the same. It should not matter the size of the breakers as long as they are the same. It is possible that GFI, GFCI, or lightning arrest breakers would give you problems with this but I do not know the specifics.
I still cannot make it more clear that you should not be doing this if you don't know what you are doing.
***** you would have to have some way of syncing the output of the generator with a specific offset for that to have a chance at working and the generator would have to at least equal the current of the circuit breaker. There may be other considerations that I am not thinking of, but the point is that it is safer and more likely to work if both ends are connected to the same system.
Chuck Sampson I believe that you are correct. or two separate sources.
and perhaps a variable drive.
Be aware that your first mistake is that you must use two separate 120v circuits on separate legs from the panel. Secondly you need to connect the green wires and anchor them to the metal box. That is your metallic ground. Your two white wires connect to the common on the outlet. That is your common circuit ground. Finally each black wire at 120v are connected to the plug hot terminals. If you use two separate 120v circuits and they are both pulling from the same leg on the panel you still have 120v.
i just blew all the breakers at my grandmas house, thank you.
Lol
thank you for this video. It is going to help me to change a 220 outlet into two 110 outlets. I had watched a bunch of other videos to try to find out how and your video shows me the reverse. Because of you I will be able to help my neighbor fix his garage outlets. Thanks.
Hi there. Thanks for posting. I also am not an electrician and don't claim to know anything. However, I have several concepts to share that may help you:
Concept 1: Different vs common poles: A 220V single phase breaker panel has inputs of 2 poles @ 110V each. Those 110V inputs to the panel are 180 degrees out of phase. Most (all?) panels are like this: neighboring breakers are fed from opposite poles. If you measure the voltage between any 2 breakers on the opposite side of a panel you will likely get 0 volts difference (what you did at @1:19). If you measure voltage between neighboring breakers on the same side you will get 220V (what you did at @2:20).
Concept 2: Safety: What you have done will offer 220V out of your 220V female outlet if you have both 110V plugs inserted into separate 110V wall outlet on different poles (not just different breakers). However, it is going to be very dangerous in the following scenario: 1) you plug in a 220V appliance into your 220V outlet and turn that appliance ON... and ... 2) you plug in only 1 of the 110V plugs into a wall outlet ... and ... 3) you put your hands between the hot line of the unplugged 110V plug and any of the following: the ground or neutral connection in the exposed 110V plug or any other grounded surface. If you do this, your body will be the easiest path to ground and you will get a 220V shock.
Concept 3: 2 breakers protecting a 220V circuit: @4:54 you mentioned having a 15 amp breaker (on one pole) and a 20 amp (on the other pole). The 15 amp breaker will always trip before the 20amp breaker. Though bad practice/not standard, you could in theory run different amperage breakers on the same 220 V circuit. I very much suspect it would violate code. Breakers must be selected so that it protects the wiring and in that scenario the higher of the 2 breakers should still be rated lower than the capacity of the wiring.
Concept 4: Breaker size: most 220V appliances are high wattage requiring large breakers 30 amps and up. All 110 V breakers are at most 20 amps I think. Only if you had say a tablesaw with a 1HP 220V motor would the breakers for a 110V circuit be heavy enough.
Concept 5: Breakers on a 220V circuit are supposed to be ganged together so that if 1 trips, it takes out the other breaker. When you buy a double pole breaker with only one on/off lever, the internals gang the 2 internal breakers together. If you take 2 single breakers for a 220V circuit, you could put them side by side in the panel. Then put a finishing nail in the hole in the leaver in one and pass that nail through the hole of the other breaker. That way, you are ganging them together. I don't know if that would meet code.
"I also am not an electrician and don't claim to know anything."
For someone who doesn't know anything, you sure have a lot to say.
@@zapa1pnt point taken. I was basically starting with a disclaimer... I guess I do know a couple things.
will this work for power stations like anker, bluetti, jackery etc. Can I get 220 from it's socket this way?
This is exactly how your stove and dryer is wired at the panel. He just did at the plugs in the wall instead. Dad was an electrician and taught me how when I was 10, it hasn't changed in 48 years except maybe in the size of the wire. And it won't change because it only works like this. All these folks that are not electricians should just shut up and move on. This will work for any machinery that uses 240 volts and less than 30 amps.
Sorry to burst your bubble Steve, but maybe sons of electricians should curb their enthusiasm as well. Try and pull 30A/240V (7200W) out of 2 - 15A/120V (1800W ea) circuits and you'll be flipping breakers all day long... of course that is what they are supposed to do and why there is little risk with this 'experiment'.
Steve Currier hey Steve can I do this to supply power to my hot tub while adding a gfci to the mix?
@@lakeman2604 hey man, I have a tablesaw that needs 8.6 amps and 230v... Would this work okay for that?
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I am curious what you ran using this 220v rig? A 240v rated welder perhaps? I'd like to know how it worked out. Did the supply wires got hot? Did the circuit breaker trip?
+Larry Hutcherson Sr ,
It didn't work at all, I was running an inverter welder trying to get 220v but I ended up finishing on 110v with a 20amp outlet. One line was 15amp and the other 20amp, neither got warm, and the 15amp breaker tripped so much I gave up.
I'm not a professional electrician but i have work with a few in the past. I have some basic training and work on some residential wiring and checked off by electricians. That being said what you have done can work to give out the 110/120 v to 220/240 v as such.
The problem is in the amp draw of what you want to supply. If the outlets you are using is a max of 20 amp feed from either of the outlets then the most you will be able to supply is a 20 amps maximum. So what that means basically if the appliance you are attempting to run had say a 40 amp draw most likely one or both breakers would trip and shut down every time you flipped the switch on.
A better and maybe safer thing is to buy a heavy duty cord made for use with 220/240 v with the type of plug needed for the appliance you are using. then if you have an exciting outlet that is 220/240 v at say 30/40/50 amps provided just check the breaker box if labeled to see what the amp is to see if it will match your appliance being ran on it.
If it checks out then you can buy a 220/240 v outlet adapter or if you plan to use that outlet for a long time just change the male end of the cord to fit the outlet and all should work safer and at the correct amps needed........ Thx 4 the vid
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I made one of these... although I added relays and a 220v indicator lamp for safety and to indicate power. Without the relays the 2nd plug end will be live if you have equipment plugged into the box.
can it be 16 gauge wire? given that they are 15 amps a peace on the seperate lines. it equals the thirty amps.. i read stuff online and didnt see this video before i bought the cord and now im halfway through building it and figured id do a bit more research bore the final test
You just answered a hairbrained idea. I live in an rv. In my shed is a washer and dryer. I converted dryer to 110 which ofcourse makes the thing take twice as long to dry clothes.
Im going to home depot tomorrow and im going to assemble this box to run my dryer. Although i fix appliances by profession im not an electrician
I have a 120v ellectric water heater but it is mostly cold water. Will this work for a 240v 30amp 6 kw needed electric water heater? Will this be hotter and more steady water?
Hello,
why are 110V neutrals not necessary ? You still need a return path, correct?
and, for the 220V out let....where is the neutral ?
you comments are appreciated
Only thing I can tell you brother is that I'm not an electrician and I can certainly use the advice on this experiment, good luck and don't burn anything down!
I found a "Quick220 Systems" on the internet for roughly $280, which pretty much doing the same thing with your $50 box. I guess rules and regulations goes into that box to spike up the cost of making them. Thank you for this post!
SO to be successful in repeating this you need the 220v tester to make sure you have found 2 110v outlets that are not on the same "leg" (household panel has 2 hot legs with a ground in the center). I would need to make sure i was using a outlet supplied by a 20a breaker on the left leg and another outlet supplied by 20a breaker on the right leg. This would provide me with both transformer supply outputs and ground. If I'm not correct please tell me where and why I'm wrong. I'm asking as a person that is curious abd wants to learn. I'M NOT A ELECTRICIAN AND DO NOT CLAIM TO BE. thanks in advance for your answers.
Are the two 110 watts cables connected to two different outlets ?Right!
I'd think wire nutting the neutrals together would be a good idea?.
this is useful for making 220v stuff work. like power tools. that thing you made for 40 bucks could sell for 60. it seems safe since it didnt create a circuit unless completed. the outlet design is the reason. thank you bro!
Awesome video and like he said it is just an experiment, if you people need 220V outlet, simply hire me or any other electrician install a double pole 20 amp breaker( depending on your appliance) and it will be much safer.
Why is the Green Ground wire connected instead of the two White Neutral wires ?
You're going to want to add a ground screw with, maybe as much as, a foot of ground wire to that box.
1) Screw a grounding screw to the box, wrap the midpoint of that ground wire around that screw and tighten the screw down.
2) Tie your two green ground wires from your two cables to one of the ground wires, that you just attached to the box, with a wire nut.
3) Attach the remaining ground wire, that you just attached to the box, to the ground on your 220 outlet.
Your box is now properly grounded so that you can't be electrocuted should a short occur inside the box.
Good advice to ground that, yeh.
If I identify 2 separate lines and connect each cable, do you guys think I can connect my 50 amps power distro for my dj? Most of the venues do not allow mess with the breaker box and maybe can be an option.
One something like that, isn't it best to run a 15amp break on it???
My question is the 220Box "outlet" you are using does not resemble any 220 outlet I have seen ?
3:45 those two wires of the male plug that you touched, would've been hot if there was a load (an appliance) was connected to the black 220V outlet.
Be very careful with that!!!
Persian5word your stupid, no they wont 220 is not single phase it is double phase without a neutral wire
Your stupid lol Persia is correct. When you plug a load in you will get zapped not 220 but 110. Still hurts go try it hey
I have a question, When my 160 amp dc inverter welding machine is connected using this method, is it charging each wire with 110v right? and not each with 220v. I'm sorry I'm not an electrician and I'm a little afraif of this.
What you are saying is correct you need 2 separate circuits with them being on different Lines for example circuit 1 is on line 1 and circuit 2 is on line 2. The easiest way to get 240v from 2 120v outlets is from the kitchen split receptacles 240 is available in between the hot's on the duplex
Why did you not ground the metal box? Just curious
Innovative and thanks for the idea. I am going to experiment in joining 110v from the solar panel and 110v from the house to run a 220v air conditioner.
The first 2 cords used by guy in video apparently were separate 120 volt circuits that got power from the same 120 V leg feeding service panel. This could explain why those circuits tested at 120 V, but did not test out at 240 V when combined. When guy in video got the 240 V he was he was looking for, he switched one of the cords for a different 120 V circuit that got power from the other 120 V leg feeding his service panel. I think I got this straight?
+cyclepunk1959, this is the guy from the video ! :-P It's true that I randomly checked outlets until I found the proper match, but the outlets were on opposite sides of our shop.
But it's possible that you might not find two hot lines from opposite legs, depending on how the building was wired.
Hi.. can i charge a electric car with charrger level 2 with this one?? Really a phev hybrid car...???
Looks basic and functional. How much do you sell it for?
is there a parts list and instructions on how to build this safely? also is there a way to have a light shine when the phasing is correct, or whenever everything is good for use
very nice. how come you do not wire the neutrals In circuit???
How do you know which one is positive and which one is negitive if you are using 2 hot lines
Could you wire them in series?
would this work for a 220v dryer?
No, the wires would burn up if the circuit breaker didn't trip first (from either being exact same phase or tripping because of the excess demand). It is better to hire an electrician to install a permanent 30A or 40A receptacle than to try and save money by doing this.
The cord he's using is 12AWG and only rated for 20A at 120V. A typical dryer uses 3000W. When we divide this up we get 3000W/240V=12.5A. The danger is how long that dryer will operate and not to mention that this cord was never intended to be used in such a way. Please do not use this for a dryer.
Would it hurt to connect the two neutral wires to the box for extra ground?
Why would someone in there right mind do something like that
Extra ground? Neutral is not ground
Someone correct me please, if I'm wrong. Taking 120v from 2 separate 120v outlets operating 180 degrees out of phase from each other does nothing to the household wires running to the outlets from the breaker box as the current doesn't increase until after the two are combined....right? The line running from the junction of theses two outlets to the load is the one that needs to be heavy enough to carry the voltage/amperage, yes? After combining we have 240v@30A, yeah? Ok, makes me think, the problem could be 240v on the equivalent of a 30a system? (home wiring) Or, do we have the potential for that load, but that potential isn't realized until we hook up a resistance?
its still 15 amps but it is 240v, think of it as the power comes from one 120v plug into the device and than leaves out the other 120v plug but since there on opposite phases its a 240v difference
all the amperage goes through each wire, it doubles voltage and wattage but not amperage
If you connect something to the 220V plug, and only connect one of the 110V plugs. Then you can get shocked by touching the unplugged male 110V plug.
yes, the fact he was afraid to touch the second plug *when nothing was plugged into the socket* tells me he has no clue what is he doing or how does it work.
he knew, but just not confident. he did the check with his equipment and even stated it. one can know what they are doing and still not be confident. one can also not know what they are doing and be over confident, and that is when accidents happen.
That would only happen if he had a live 220v male end plug
Only if you wire it up wrong. Make sure the 120v extensions are hooked up the exact same way.
Per Mejdal Rasmussen Extreme danger it will not handle high amperage loads without catching fire🔥🔥🔥⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️🔥🔥🔥🔥
I didn't see this answered in any of the questions. But can this adapter be hooked up between two identical generators to provided a 220v circuit?
Odds are it can't, but I wouldn't chance burning out two generators if your wrong!
So, I'm wondering if I could use 2 Honda inverter generators and this type setup to get 240v output. (for instance 2 honda EU2000i generators). Honda has a parallel cable for them, but it just provides additional wattage at the 120v. I want to output the combined wattage to a 240v receptacle.
With this mode i can turn on a electric dryer?
So if I have 220 VAC at my outlet and I connect them as show in your videos will I get 440 VAC??
There is a device called a quick 220, looks very similar to this. Any electricians care to weigh in on the quick 220 box? I'm specifically wondering how many amps one of these parallel setups can deliver?
They changed it already from 240 to 120v for the new hot water heater. I don't understand how it works though. The circuit breakers are only a bridge from the black hot side wire to the red wire on the other side that carries the power to the device/load, correct ? Then here is what I don't understand. The original setup had a black wire on one side, out on the other side is a red wire. Inbetween, the circuit breaker had two 20 amp, left and right. From what I understand, the black wire carried the power in, and the red wire carried the power out - but it was providing 240v to the original water heater, which needed 240v. Now the the new water heater, it needs 120v. All they did was take out the red wire out of the circuit breaker, and jumped it to a screw on top of the breaker box. These are my questions: how did the original wire manage to give 240v ? If it did. how is the new setup giving 120v ? And since now the black wire is the only side connected to the circuit breaker, how does the power get to the water heater, since the other side of the circuit breaker has no wire, and therefore no wire going to the water heater ?
+Don Erickson All they did was take out the red wire out of the circuit breaker, and jumped it to a screw on top of the breaker box. These are my questions: how did the original wire manage to give 240v ? If it did. how is the new setup giving 120v ? And since now the black wire is the only side connected to the circuit breaker, how ..?
Answer:
Easy.
The power supply company - (whose lines go past your property) run a 3phase three (or four wire if they also supply your house with a neutral cable) overhead/underground service line, from which they can supply individual houses with either one, two or all three phase LINES = two of which were "run" to your electric boiler unit, when a 240 v element was fitted.
When they replaced that with a 11v element, hey simply removed one "leg" of phase (at the switchboard, by putting that red wire into a spare unused terminal for isolation), and "used" the other cable's phase (red) as the feeder wire, using the houses earth system as the earthed/neutral return.
Or - your element/boiler already HAD a neutral cable run to it, (say for a light or other power circuit nearby (that they tapped onto at the boiler) - thus they wouldn't need to install new cabling, as it was already there.
That meant one breaker could be omitted, (and not a jumper - but an isolation terminal used, to keep the second phase cable at the breaker insulated/isolated).
Simple 1ph/ 2ph & 3ph wiring.
+Quix Kiwi The part I don't understand is that before, the black wire went into the 20 amp circuit breaker on the left side. The red wire went into the 20 amp circuit breaker on the right side. So if they both gave 110v, then 220v was going to the old hot water heater. But how does the power get to the water heater if both of these lines are giving power going into the circuit breaker ? There doesn't seem to be an outlet wire going to the hot water heater.
Why did the second power cord work but the first one didn't ?
Do you think it would work plugged into a dc inverter
Thank for the help Mr👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
this was very useful, tnx for the diagram, i had brainfarts and burned out a couple of fuses before re-watching the vid and doing it the right way.
Nothing about what he did is the "right way". It's a cheap, dangerous rigging
it is very clever of you. have you had anything plugged in.
Tom Lee I did but the two outlets were not the same amperage so the weaker breaker kept popping on me because my machine was pulling too much power.
Will this work safely for my welder it runs off 240 but I only have 110 outlets at home so I've had it for like 6 months now and haven't been able to use it????
Most likely not, u only have 15A of current I’d assume ur welder is 30-40A so it won’t work
So...this setup would work fine from two separate (same model/same amperage) AC generators (e.g. Honda 2200's)...and wired into a 4 wire outlet (thereby not having to tie the neutrals together)?
Retro Electro I probably wouldn’t try it I have an older EU 2000 with low hours on it I bought about five or so years back for $1000 Honda generators are not cheap if you want 220 volts without having to wire heavy wiring or pay someone to do it get a 5000 or 6000 W generator or bigger if you can afford it and have an experienced electrician wire up a twist lock plug for you in the twist lock socket that puts out 230/240 volts and at the end of it put a receptacle that your welder or whatever into,,,this gentleman‘s method will give 220 but you won’t have the amperage there,,,you might be able to do some light welding mabe,,,,if you had a heavy duty welder on that you couldn’t turn the heat all the way up it would result in a fire 🔥⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️🔥🔥🔥⚡️⚡️🔥
NO! The two generators would have to be synchronized.
@@walterk1221 yes...I understand what you say .....now. Luckily I didn't learn the hard way.
Cool project. I never got the hang of north american 220V. In south america we had single phase 220 as the regular household electricity.
You mentioned about installing a breaker. Would you recomend a 30 amp?
No, because the wire to the outlets couldn't handle it. 30 amp shouldn't be drawing more than 15 amp on each hot leg.
how do you know he's not running 8 or 10 ga wire for this circut bitch?
All right I get the whole phase thing but I have a generator that has four 110s can I somehow do that with my generator or should I just put my generator to the curb right now because I'm going to f*** it up
I am going to try this in my shop to get 220 for my welder. Thanks for the video.
hello
i bought Panasonic KX-TG7872S with power supply 120v and i want to use it in europe
what product i need to make it 240v?
+TOM A You should need a step down converter for your 120v phone to plug into 240v euro outlet, check this out: amzn.com/B000W9DJ1Q .
This is just a guess, it all depends how much power you may need for the size of converter.
Thanks for watching!
thanks
...so the big question is, have you used it??
How can I know if the 110V are separate lines??
What a useful video! Thank you so much.
The box didn't ground ?
Available power supply is 220V but I have a TV from canada 110V, so how can i convert the TV power supply from 220V.
LOL...
I was just talking to my boss about this, he said you got to have a double pole breaker, I told him no, as long as you are connected to the 2 different legs on the panel, you have 220v even with single breakers...
Thanks for the vid.
Technically he’s actually not wrong, u need a double pole or tandem breaker so that you can be able to shut off both phases at one given time rather than looking for 2 separate breakers scattered around the panel
Sorry Nick,
But ,
Tandem breakers only hook up to one leg in the panel,
The only way you can get 220v is hooking up to both of the legs on the panel , try making your A/C work when you only have one leg as a feeder or 110v , thanks.
Francisco Vides ur not getting what I’m saying, the “code” way requires you to use double pole breaker. Obv using different 120 legs u can get 240 with 2 breakers but shouldn’t be done
Oh!
Sorry, yes you’re absolutely right!
In the hardwood floor industry we have been doing it for years, we normally hook up our sanders that run on 220V 30A to the electric dryer or electric stove outlets if possible, but sometimes they are gas and they only have 110v outlets so we hook into a breaker on the breaker box outside the home unless it is too far, it's raining or simply there is no breakers available and we use this same method, you go to Home Depot and buy a small A/C beaker box like the ones used on a Jacuzzis and hook everything just like this guy did BUT using a breaker and we use a volt meter on the same line to make sure we are getting the right voltage, in 20+ years a haven't seen or heard of any accidents of houses that got burned because of this, PLUS someone is already selling this things online for years...right or wrong?? not sure I'm not an electrician but take a look:
store.ussander.com/plugs-cords/power-cord/side
store.ussander.com/plugs-cords/power-cord/km01
store.ussander.com/machine-accessories/power-boosters-adapters/dsboxsm
do the extension cords have to be a certain gauge for this to work?
Sorry it could be a stupid question. Can we use this setup and plug in both on the same breaker outlets?? Another 120 outlet is too far in my case.
So if each were on a 20 Amp breaker would this combine for 40 amps or still only 20 total Amps?
+Sean Younk I have no Clue! If one of the engineers or electricians could please help answer this, it would be greatly appreciated.
+Sean YoI believe it will remain on 20Amp. U=U1+U2, but I=I1=I2 in this case
+Leonid Kostitsyn
I think so too. Thank you.
+UnsanctionedFabrication +Sean Younk
Actually - it would create a serious problem.
Because at worst - neither breaker would trip as the load would still be 20amps in series around the entire circuit, but having 20 amps flowing at double the voltage during a fault condition, is four times the appliances possible wattage rating, so probably neither breaker would trip if a fault occurred, until long after the operator was completely DEAD.!!!
At least (but still bad) - only ONE breaker would trip, leaving the other to "supply" full potential difference between the two phase lines (note both cable wires are considered phases in a two phase supply) at any & all "points" around the circuit, as if still fully powered.
At any "point" on the circuit, from either side of the "tripped breaker" you would still have a 110v to EARTH "fault supply voltage.. if you touched any wire (or faulty appliance).!!!
All that would occur, is that one breaker would trip and instantly have BOTH sides of the potential voltage showing across the breaker.
NO PART OF THE CICUIT COULD BE CONSIDERED OFF, even though the appliance doesn't now work.!!!
Excellent, but you should show a video doing the wire inside the box
This is just a simple combination of split phase AC electric. Anyone can do this in their house if they have split phase 110 or 120 (here in USA we have 120). An easy way to find out if you have 2 different phases is to run an extension cord from another room and check the voltage between the 2 hots after first checking each individual cord for 110 or 120V. If they are the same phase then the voltage between the 2 hots will be 0. If they are different phases (meaning 180 degrees out of phase but still phase locked), it will show up as 220 or 240V. This is VERY simple to do. Once you have the 240V isolated (meaning you have the correct feeds for it), you can do many things. They are guaranteed to be on different breakers so depending on what load you need, you can decide if you must combine 20A breakers or if 15A will be enough. Remember at 240V (vs. 120V), you only need half the amps for a given wattage (assuming same power factor for both). Assuming the wattage of what you need stays constant (for example a 120V 1500 watt heater vs. a 240V 1500 watt heater), the wire thickness needed for the 240V setup is less (smaller). This is partially why high energy electric things use higher voltage, otherwise the thickness requirement for the wires would be great. Golf carts for example draw thousands of watts but do so via 36V or 48V (usually) , thus only needing 6 AWG cables. Imagine if they use a 12V setup for a golf cart. Not only would you need several hundreds of amps, but the cables would have to be MUCH thicker like 2 AWG. A decent analogy is voltage is like the size of a baseball batter, amps is how hard he has to swing, and watts is how far the ball goes. So a large batter (let's say 24V) would only have to swing moderately (lets say 10A) to hit the ball 240 feet (240 watts analogy). Now let's take a smaller batter (equivalent to 12V in our analogy). That same batter has to swing twice as hard (20A) to hit the ball the same 240 feet (240 watts).
David James True. The power coming in the home is 240 vac split phase. Just depends on which side of the circuit breaker box it happens to be on.
i did the same thing man the exact say way u wired it works great for me and my crypto mining except i also grounded the box its self which i highly recommend u do as well