Thanks for this video. The tang that sits against the caliper bracket was throwing me off and I installed the pads with the tang inside the caliper and it was scraping the rotor and your video was the only one that clearly showed how it’s supposed to be installed lol. Thanks so much
I’ve got a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek and want to check the pads. I was told you can lift the vehicle to place jack stands at the jack points by placing a lift under the rear differential.
Cristian Alexander This is an acceptable way of lifting the rear of this vehicle. I have done so myself. Lift from the rear diff and place the jack stands on the sides of the car at the factory jack points.
Pretty good video but I hope you cleaned the rotor and got all of the brake grease off of it before putting the pads on or the brakes more than likely will not work, Just a thought..
It can. It can also stop brake squeaking. However rotors have a minimum thickness they can be turned down to. So if you’re rotors are already worn down too much, having them turned might not be beneficial in the long run. You would need to have that checked out by your local machinist. I personally don’t like turning rotors for two reasons. 1. It takes material away from the rotor thus making it more prone to warping later on and shortening its already short life since it has been on the car through an entire first set of pads and now asking it to go through another full set of pads. Big thing here is removing material making it weaker and more warp prone. 2. Cost, here it cost $25-30 to turn a rotor. Often new rotors are only $20-25 more. So I go with new rotors. Now of course that highly depends on what car I’m buying rotors for.
Simple and easy to follow. Are you supposed to use the old back plates from the pads and swap them onto the new ones? Or should you only use whatever comes with the new pads? Seems illogical to put old hardware on new pads?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair that's the one thing I did not do. Brakes and rotors feel good. Just don't seem tight tight on the pedal like I imagined. The bleeder was never cracked open. I confirmed all pads and rotors on in correct orientation. Even ensured the clips had brake grease applied to them along with the ears of the pads like you did. Torque to slide bolts and caliper brackets applied per specs. Even took out the slide pins, cleaned them and applied new silicone. All this.... And I s feel as if the pedal is not hard enough as should be. After 500 miles on new slotted rotors and Hawk pads and still feels the same. They do seem to grab when the brakes are hot or warm. Not so much when cold or first cold start and reversing. Guess I should have went STOCK
GR8GUY54 well you can always bleed the brakes again to see if that will help pedal feel. If you got a brake pad that is for strictly racing then they will not work very well when they are cold. They need heat to get them to work like they should. If the pedal has the same feel as it did before you did the brakes then you are fine and there is no need to trash can those parts you just bought. Bleed the brakes and see how they feel. Even if they get marginally better that’s completely fine. Brake pedal feel is improved in a variety of ways.
I've always been on the fence with applying lube to the metal slides. It's going to attract a lot of dirt and brake dust. Plus, they don't do it from the factory.
Nick Kranzo they are ALL lubricated from the factory. They are sliding calipers, the greased pins help them work as they should. They are contained within rubber boots on purpose to keep the dirt out.
Erica Yang It is used to compress the caliper piston back into the caliper. If you try and slide the caliper back onto the new pads you will notice it will not slide onto the pads because the piston is still pushed out. This is the reason for squeezing the piston back into the caliper. After you have removed the caliper as show in the video. You take the old pad and place it into the caliper against the piston. Then take the tool and slide the black plate up against the INSIDE of the caliper. This will allow you to screw the little silver circle into the old pad thus pressing the piston back into the caliper. It is far more complicated trying to explain it. I show you in the video how to set it up if you would like to give it a watch. I don’t show me turning the little black handle as that is boring but you should be able to figure that out! Let me know if this has helped you.
Erica Yang ya can also use a c-ya clamp & a piece of wood against the caliper piston to open it up enough to allow for the extra thickness of the new Break pads. He did not mention bleeding the breaks in his video , but there are probably several other videos that explain that extra step in the process of changing your front break pads.
eugene gutierrez not necessary. At least not the way I’ve done it here. If you did open a brake line and allowed air into the system then you will need to bleed the brakes.
nitroman58 V you know what this is a good question. If I recall there is a center jack pad/point under the front of the car. I jack up it up from there then place the jack stands at the stock jacking points on the side of the car.
nitroman58 V Ok here is a pdf link that will show you where the proper location to jack up the car is. You can just use the jack to hold the car up as I did. Of course the proper/safer way would be to jack the car up and then support it on a jack stand but that sometimes is hard to do with certain cars. I hope this helps. Page 9-5 through 9-7 will work. view.joomag.com/subaru-xv-crosstrek-manuals-2017-crosstrek-owners-manual/0437156001476992594?page=457
hankgs If you choose to replace the fluid, that’s your call. When you take your cars into any mechanic shop or dealership they DO NOT replace or bleed the brake fluid. There is no need to bleed the brake fluid since the brake lines were no t opened.
![Shareปลาวาฬ ส่งท้าย SS1 พาเปียโน ขึ้น Ferrari ก่อนไปขาย แลก Nissan l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KAknGkTNIvg/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for this video. The tang that sits against the caliper bracket was throwing me off and I installed the pads with the tang inside the caliper and it was scraping the rotor and your video was the only one that clearly showed how it’s supposed to be installed lol. Thanks so much
Excellent!!!!! Thanks for your time!!!! Going to fix my brakes tomorrow with your tips. Again, thank you.
I’ve got a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek and want to check the pads. I was told you can lift the vehicle to place jack stands at the jack points by placing a lift under the rear differential.
Cristian Alexander This is an acceptable way of lifting the rear of this vehicle. I have done so myself. Lift from the rear diff and place the jack stands on the sides of the car at the factory jack points.
Thank you
Pretty good video but I hope you cleaned the rotor and got all of the brake grease off of it before putting the pads on or the brakes more than likely will not work, Just a thought..
This is way easier than changing brake pads on Electric emergency brakes.
I’ve heard it’s better to use no grease than too much grease. Use sparingly!
When should you turn the rotors? I've heard it helps with brake life if you refinished them.
It can. It can also stop brake squeaking. However rotors have a minimum thickness they can be turned down to. So if you’re rotors are already worn down too much, having them turned might not be beneficial in the long run. You would need to have that checked out by your local machinist.
I personally don’t like turning rotors for two reasons.
1. It takes material away from the rotor thus making it more prone to warping later on and shortening its already short life since it has been on the car through an entire first set of pads and now asking it to go through another full set of pads. Big thing here is removing material making it weaker and more warp prone.
2. Cost, here it cost $25-30 to turn a rotor. Often new rotors are only $20-25 more. So I go with new rotors. Now of course that highly depends on what car I’m buying rotors for.
Simple and easy to follow.
Are you supposed to use the old back plates from the pads and swap them onto the new ones? Or should you only use whatever comes with the new pads? Seems illogical to put old hardware on new pads?
GR8GUY54 honestly if the new pads don’t come with backing plates, go ahead and transfer them to the new pads. It won’t harm anything.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair that's the one thing I did not do. Brakes and rotors feel good. Just don't seem tight tight on the pedal like I imagined. The bleeder was never cracked open. I confirmed all pads and rotors on in correct orientation. Even ensured the clips had brake grease applied to them along with the ears of the pads like you did. Torque to slide bolts and caliper brackets applied per specs. Even took out the slide pins, cleaned them and applied new silicone. All this....
And I s feel as if the pedal is not hard enough as should be.
After 500 miles on new slotted rotors and Hawk pads and still feels the same. They do seem to grab when the brakes are hot or warm. Not so much when cold or first cold start and reversing. Guess I should have went STOCK
GR8GUY54 well you can always bleed the brakes again to see if that will help pedal feel. If you got a brake pad that is for strictly racing then they will not work very well when they are cold. They need heat to get them to work like they should. If the pedal has the same feel as it did before you did the brakes then you are fine and there is no need to trash can those parts you just bought. Bleed the brakes and see how they feel. Even if they get marginally better that’s completely fine. Brake pedal feel is improved in a variety of ways.
Hope you removed that wad of grease off the rotor!
Robert Fugate Nope, left it there just for you 👍🏼
I was thinking the same thing, hope it was removed.
Hi, what's the torque amount you used on the 14mm bolts?
14mm bolt torque spec is 19.9 ft. Lbs.
I've always been on the fence with applying lube to the metal slides. It's going to attract a lot of dirt and brake dust. Plus, they don't do it from the factory.
Nick Kranzo they are ALL lubricated from the factory. They are sliding calipers, the greased pins help them work as they should. They are contained within rubber boots on purpose to keep the dirt out.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Sorry, I should've said clips. Those are what I was referring to.
I’ve heard it’s better to use no grease than too much grease. Use sparingly!
what is the caliper piston compressor used for? and how so?
Erica Yang It is used to compress the caliper piston back into the caliper. If you try and slide the caliper back onto the new pads you will notice it will not slide onto the pads because the piston is still pushed out. This is the reason for squeezing the piston back into the caliper.
After you have removed the caliper as show in the video. You take the old pad and place it into the caliper against the piston. Then take the tool and slide the black plate up against the INSIDE of the caliper. This will allow you to screw the little silver circle into the old pad thus pressing the piston back into the caliper. It is far more complicated trying to explain it. I show you in the video how to set it up if you would like to give it a watch. I don’t show me turning the little black handle as that is boring but you should be able to figure that out! Let me know if this has helped you.
Erica Yang ya can also use a c-ya clamp & a piece of wood against the caliper piston to open it up enough to allow for the extra thickness of the new Break pads. He did not mention bleeding the breaks in his video , but there are probably several other videos that explain that extra step in the process of changing your front break pads.
is the process the same for the rear brakes?
RL Tanner Yes the rear brakes are exactly the same!
Thank you!
Hi, instead of a multi purpose grease, do you this is better to use the copper-paste?
Andrea Rigano for the slide pins? No.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair no, instead of slathering grease over brake components that get hot. Weirdest thing ive seen in a long time.
What are you talking about? Lol why would anyone put grease directly on the pads or the rotors? Get outta here clown.
When do we bleed the brakes , is it necessary?
eugene gutierrez not necessary. At least not the way I’ve done it here. If you did open a brake line and allowed air into the system then you will need to bleed the brakes.
Would you mind showing me where to place the jack for the front brakes? Thanks.
nitroman58 V you know what this is a good question. If I recall there is a center jack pad/point under the front of the car. I jack up it up from there then place the jack stands at the stock jacking points on the side of the car.
I wish that helped, but it does not.
nitroman58 V Give me until tomorrow (halloween time) I will give you a more precise answer.
Thanks, its not a rush. I would appreciate it.
nitroman58 V Ok here is a pdf link that will show you where the proper location to jack up the car is. You can just use the jack to hold the car up as I did. Of course the proper/safer way would be to jack the car up and then support it on a jack stand but that sometimes is hard to do with certain cars. I hope this helps. Page 9-5 through 9-7 will work.
view.joomag.com/subaru-xv-crosstrek-manuals-2017-crosstrek-owners-manual/0437156001476992594?page=457
Shouldn't the brake fluid be changed as well ? (bleeding the brakes and replacing the fluid)
hankgs If you choose to replace the fluid, that’s your call. When you take your cars into any mechanic shop or dealership they DO NOT replace or bleed the brake fluid. There is no need to bleed the brake fluid since the brake lines were no t opened.
OK, thanks.
Here's a tip...Light is your friend when videoing...😆
Watch the entire video bro. It was dark for maybe 5-10 seconds.
William Tyndale also videoing isn’t a word 😂
too much grease, prob ruined the rotors.
Kamil D negative. Rotors are just fine.