This was so helpful. I have a leak in the drain pipe going to my house and this basically showed me Everything to do . I have a bad back and want to use my pressure washer to loosen the dirt and shop Vac to suck it up. Problem is the pipe to the house leaks A LOT. Lost 5k gallons in 16 hours. Is it ok to connect my Pressure Washer directly to the meter?
I'm old school and would have stuck with type k soft copper. No soldering as you mentioned. It is connected by flaring with brass nipples and adapters. It's stronger and will last almost forever. Also on the riser/pipe from the ground to house, sleeve the pipe with another pipe to protect the exposed pipe from physical damage.
I’m young and inexperienced, but can you explain why k soft copper is a better alternative? I know it’s stronger, and arguably more durable, but isn’t copper more vulberable to ruptures under freezing temperatures?
Another good tool similar to the nozzle blaster you created. Use a piece of schedule 80 or 40 and cut it at an angle, which you can use for deep root irrigation. You'll be able to penetrate under the rootball underground it works great for new plants and trees🤓
I saw on another video that once finished you should leave the trench open overnight to make sure no leaks appear… 🤷♀️🤷♀️🤷♀️ extra step? Or worth it?
Thanks! No I did not. That may be a good thing to have in some applications. I decided against it because I am using anti-siphon valves. Still not a bad idea though as another prevention measure.
I personally wouldn't use PVC as a pipe for domestic water use, I believe that polyethylene is produced using far more inert chemistry, my concern being chemicals leaching into my drinking water. I'm currently installing a 300' water main and using what the professionals use (when they aren't using soft copper coil), "SIDR-7 polyethylene roll pipe" (some use SDR-7, which is a little smaller per trade size). There are different sizes of SIDR-7, I'm using 1". Another great benifit of SIDR-7 pipe is it comes in continuous rolls, so my entire 300 ft length, will have no joints, except where it connects to the meter and inside my house. The compression fittings can be a little hard to get for homeowners (as they might have to source them from a pro supplier), most people use barbed bronze fittings and ss hose clamps, which are cheap enough to buy. However, I'm using the compression connectors because they do not reduce in diameter. The pressure drop charts I've seen show that SIDR-7 pipe can carry about 2x the volume of water as the the same trade size copper, SCH 80 PVC can carry less than copper. 1" SCH80 PVC carries a volume somewhere between SIDR-7 1/2" and 3/4". While the SIDR-7 pipe is much cheaper than copper or SCH80 PVC, the compression fittings for SIDR-7 pipe are like $60 for straight fittings and $150 for tees. In my case, I only need one straight fitting because the utility company will attach their end with their fitting and I'll attach my end to a ball valve, then convert to PEX-A inside the house. From inside the house, I'm using 1" to feed several outside spigots for our various greenhouses and animal pens. So, the approximately double volume of water will come in handy because the home's water pressure won't drop as much when a garden hose (or 2) are being used outside. The truth is, the best way to maintain water pressure, is to maximize water flow, by using the largest pipe that is practical for the application. (Don't oversize hot water because it wastes more hot water). It still would have been less than $300 to use 1" SIDR-7 and compression fittings for his project. I'm certainly not saying he messed up, I think he did a fine job for a homeowner. But, anyone that has worked professionally installing water mains, is going to choose copper coil, SIDR-7, or SDR-7 roll-pipe to feed their house or business.
would you kindly provide some of the links for the roll and fittings? I need to do something similar 300'+ with 3 T fittings. Some plumbing company came out yesterday and quote me $36,198 for the job using black Polyethylene and when I asked about the connection he said they heat it up and it bonds.
@simple man Tell more about the project first. Is this tying directly into the municipal water tap? That's why I had to use the exact pipe that I used. As far as I know, all municipalities have particular specs for what pipe to use, and they're very strict about it.
Thanks for posting in so much detail about what you used and your reasoning. I appreciate having exactly this kind of info to consider when planning projects.
Amazing how code is so different in the country. I’m in Pittsburgh, PA. We bury our lines 42” deep. There would have been 6” of sand above and below the pipe, which would have been soft k copper or PE. Generally the water service comes in through the basement wall or slab.
Yeah definitely. I think it mostly has to do with weather/temps. Freeze levels vary regionally which would have an affect on line depth. Thanks for watchin 😎
This video is so underrated. My only critique is... Hydro excavating under the walkway is a great idea unless YOU DONT HAVE WATER!! 😂😂 Oh well, I'll just dig.
This was one of the best videos I've seen on how to lay in a main line. Gave me all the info I needed to feel confident I could tackle this myself. Also, wow! The method you used to get a hole under the sidewalk! I had no idea and was dreading the thought of digging under manually. Thanks!
Wow thanks for the kind words!!.. I SOOOO glad I could help by sharing a bit of knowledge. I wish u well in your project! Please feel free to hit me up with any questions as you go along. Thanks for watching!! - Dom
Probably because you have or the company thought you had Service Line Warranties of America (SLWA) coverage. They will cover up to that EXACT amount if repairs or replacement is needed on your supply and/or sewer septic lines.
You think that's expensive..3 different companies wanted 3 different prices starting with $1,600 to $2,900😮😭😭😭 I'm almost 73 & my husband is 75 I saw your Video and I'm going to try this project on my own..the digging is going to be the hardest part..wish me luck🤞.
I have an inquiry; I’m trying to run water to two rooms that will service a washer and two sinks. I’m tapping off a 1/2 pvc that feeds a hose in the backyard. I wanted to tap from the main but they claim that tapping off will cause the house to lose pressure, not sure if that’s true or not. Will connecting from it(1/2 pipe in backyard) to a 3/4 pipe make it more pressurized or allow or allow it to have better water flow or is it already restricted since it’s from a 1/2 pipe or should I just keep it all 1/2”? It will only run about 25’ to the rooms. How much pressure do I need to have two sinks and a washer machine in an efficiency?
thx for this vid. just closed on my first house 2 months ago, a 70 year old rambler, and the plumbing problems began almost right away. your tutorial saved the day for me.
the blue glue you're using is the wet/dry which is good if the area isnt 100% clean. if its visible though, they make a clear primer and a grey glue to keep it looking clean
This is 100% bunk! Always use COPPER K pipe with sweat connections on both ends and use BALL valves! By all means, use PVC or CPVC if you like to constantly dig up / repair your underground piping.
Always been a "just do it" type of guy. The only thing that truly makes something impossible is to believe that it is, right? I realized how lucky I was sometimes. There was a hose bibb / spigot in line with a galvanized main like you put in. The tee was 50 years old galvanized pipe trying to fix the leaking spigot. Tried unscrewing the spigot - it unscrewed underground. That was one of the worst experiences - dirt falling in the female trying to make it a non-leaking join. Got home depot to hate me then running in at 8:58 while assuring my parents "no, you're not going to have to pay $10 grand"... (crap...) finally got it but later was thinking "oh man... had that tee cracked?" Anyway, certainly agree with you about galvanized :)
I am the Plumber/Fitter Man. Hear me. The dielectric coupling is a union. By its nature, they are expected to leak. By code, you need an access panel. You can't just bury them! You want an easy fix? Installing 6" of brass (like in a threaded nipple) to break the electrolysis, will work.
If you have the time and the inclination, could you explain a bit more about this? I’m sure you know your stuff, but I don’t understand your terminology and which parts of the video you’re reacting to…
Wow! A LOT of VERY impressive helpful hints I wish I had known about for all the years I have had to do similar projects. But know now moving forward for up coming biggest project I've had to face. Finding the main and digging WAY down to it in rocky sandy soil about 6' deep!
I disagree that sweating is more complicated than PVC cement even for a DIY'er, but why the claim that copper has less friction? I do not think that is true
im gonna try your method of shooting water through the soil. I already thought about it but i didnt think the pressure was good enough. The desert soil wear i live is very tuff to dig. I already borrowed my friends concrete saw and i was about to rent a jack hammer til i saw this. ya this is worth a shot. Ive already dug over foot under the concrete and a little over a foot to go so i think this might do it. If it does then dang budy u just saved me 4 hours of heck and also some money. Only thing is i was kinda wanting to put insulation over the pipe. Anyway great video great advice. i noticed that all your joints were actually done properly. I was watching each of the joints and you got it. The one thing people need to watch out for is to never connect male a solid meaning metal, brass, copper etc to a pvc female fitting. You did not do that. If you do the female pvc fitting will crack. Im an hvac guy 16+ years not a plumber but i know a bit about plumbing too. This guy seems to know quite a lot of neat super helpful tricks. Believe me i watched carefully and i didnt see any mistakes at all. such a good video. never seen a video with 0 dislikes EVER.
oh god. i just used ur trick and i got the pipe through this way. that said it took me like an hour to do it. the dirt i have here is mostly all rocks and super hard to get through. I had to keep jabbing at it and going to the meter and pulling the rocks and dirt out by hand You saved my A$$$$$$$$$$!!!!! I friggin love you right now!!!
Ahhhhhhh awesome!!!! So happy to have passed along some helpful info. I learned that little trick a while back and it really got me through some tricky spots on irrigation projects. Thanks for the wonderful comments. You rok!!!
You should mention that changing your main to pvc can in many cases cut out the electrical grounding system in your house and you may need to call and electrician afterwards to fix that
Your electrical box grounds to either grounding rods or water pipes so if you switch to pvc pipes electricity won't be able to go to ground if you don't have the rods
Great video, it was suuuper helpful, and lots of good tips! We're trying to do some repairs that seemed quite simple but we knew nothing about plumbing. So we got a guy out here to give us a quote and were told it would be $1,300, and more if they needed to break concrete to get underneath... Nope! After a lot of youtube videos I'm feeling more confident about fixing stuff ourselves and saving $1,000+ thanks!
Fantastic! Yes… You can totally do this. Breaking it down step-by-step, it’s actually fairly simple… Just requires a little elbow grease LOL. Best of luck to you on your project… I’m sure you will annihilate it 💪
Where are you located ?, in some parts of the United States specially where it freezes water lines has to be installed fairly deep. In other states the main requires copper be used which is expensive. But yeah $9,600 makes you wonder what’s going on.
I’m here in CA so we do t have to consider freezing, but yes in many parts of the US that has to be taken into account. For these kinds of projects, it’s about 80-90% labor charges that drives the cost up. So if folks are able to do their own, it’s worth it! So long as it’s done properly 😎
I did it! I replaced my water main line. I had a lot of small rocks while tunneling, but the tunneling thingy was strong enough to push them out of the way.
Also plastic pipes have less friction loss than copper. This is one of the main reasons for using PVC everywhere now. as well as chlorinated water keeps the molecular structure strong.
Definitely the best how to video for main water line install. I’m about to tackle this job this weekend. This will help me a lot and thanks for doing a good job on explaining everything!
Thank you for posting. I'm not replacing a line but I'm having a water meter put in for a future cabin in a mountain community and if plumbers in the suburbs are expensive, imagine at nearly 8000. This makes me feel more empowered to deal with things myself.
Thanks! I would say to add a few inches of rich loamy topsoil and till it in as best as you can. It may not perform quite as well in the heavily rooted area however.
The main difference is that CPVC can withstand higher temps. It also has a higher resistance to highly chlorinated water. So it’s fine to use and helpful in some cases, but generally not necessary.
The VERY best place to get all sorts of irrigation and landscape supplies is Ewing Irrigation. They have everything you would need to complete a project like this. The staff are incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. They cater to both contractors and homeowners. Definitely a major step up from the big box stores… And have much more professional commercial grade materials. I recommend going to their website to see if they have a store close to your location. Thanks for watching!
Great video, thank you. After you uncovered your Union with the valve, you showed a scene where the pipes were as clean as can be at the 4:42 mark. Any tips on how to get the pipes that clean to work on? I have dug down and have uncovered the pipes, but they are encrusted in mud. Wire brush maybe? I was thinking maybe even a hose, then shop vac the water back out. Thank you again. Troy Miller, Kansas City, MO
Hey Troy, I replied to your email, but also wanted to reply here as well. I recommend using a pressure nozzle on a standard hose. If that’s not strong enough, you can go to a pressure washing machine with a fan nozzle. Just keep it on the lower pressure settings. Good luck!
hi bud , your show , ?? everyone works different, we don't use ball valve , we use ball valve, some plumber pvc or copper, 3/ 4 , some plumber use ball valve, not gate valve, !!
This was so helpful. I have a leak in the drain pipe going to my house and this basically showed me Everything to do . I have a bad back and want to use my pressure washer to loosen the dirt and shop Vac to suck it up. Problem is the pipe to the house leaks A LOT. Lost 5k gallons in 16 hours. Is it ok to connect my Pressure Washer directly to the meter?
Wow I wish my soil was like that to dig. Our valley is FULL of rocks. Nice info.
Hahaa yeah I got lucky on this one lol
me too brother every time i put the shovel in the ground i hit one
I'm old school and would have stuck with type k soft copper. No soldering as you mentioned. It is connected by flaring with brass nipples and adapters. It's stronger and will last almost forever. Also on the riser/pipe from the ground to house, sleeve the pipe with another pipe to protect the exposed pipe from physical damage.
I’m young and inexperienced, but can you explain why k soft copper is a better alternative? I know it’s stronger, and arguably more durable, but isn’t copper more vulberable to ruptures under freezing temperatures?
Yeah, please tell us Mike. Old school knowledge is the best.
Another good tool similar to the nozzle blaster you created. Use a piece of schedule 80 or 40 and cut it at an angle, which you can use for deep root irrigation. You'll be able to penetrate under the rootball underground it works great for new plants and trees🤓
The water tunneling device is awesome for going under the drive/walkway!
Most definitely! And great for water gun fights 😎😎
Man, this is one awesomely informative video!
Many thanks!! 🙏🏼
Great video feel more confident to do my own water line
Fantastic!!
GREAT JOB THANKS FOR EDUCATING ME....AWSOME
I saw on another video that once finished you should leave the trench open overnight to make sure no leaks appear… 🤷♀️🤷♀️🤷♀️ extra step? Or worth it?
Yes! That’s a good step to ensure no leaks 😎
I had this repair done professionally and it had cost me around $1800. Not an easy job for sure.
Yes for sure. It does take some elbow grease!! 💪
$1800 is dirt cheap nowaday
Use map gas torch to break those seized up joints. Heat moves everything, dead or alive
Sorry if I missed it but did you put a check or backflow valve on mainline because you have irrigation and hosebib outlets? Nice video!!
Thanks! No I did not. That may be a good thing to have in some applications. I decided against it because I am using anti-siphon valves. Still not a bad idea though as another prevention measure.
Can you come do this at my house? I'm terrified at the thought of having our water line fixed
Thanks!
Thanks David!!!
I have a small leak some where in my house but can’t find it maybe it’s the pipe going to the main shut off.
The frost line is obviously not an issue where you live. Alas, it is in Detroit
Yup. Southern California 😎
How is the super tunnel water blaster going to get through chunks of limestone and concrete over pour and roots from mature trees?
Unfortunately it won’t. You would need something with a little more power.
Not worried about freezing where you live in assuming
Correct. But Ruschia can take down to 20 deg. f.
What do you do with old piping under ground when putting a new one
I like to remove it if it’s possible.
Next time go to your local home depot and rent a trencher. Save ur back for only 150 bucks for the day
Zurn pex is the way to go . Copper is so outdated
I don't like the chemicals in plastics
I personally wouldn't use PVC as a pipe for domestic water use, I believe that polyethylene is produced using far more inert chemistry, my concern being chemicals leaching into my drinking water.
I'm currently installing a 300' water main and using what the professionals use (when they aren't using soft copper coil), "SIDR-7 polyethylene roll pipe" (some use SDR-7, which is a little smaller per trade size). There are different sizes of SIDR-7, I'm using 1". Another great benifit of SIDR-7 pipe is it comes in continuous rolls, so my entire 300 ft length, will have no joints, except where it connects to the meter and inside my house.
The compression fittings can be a little hard to get for homeowners (as they might have to source them from a pro supplier), most people use barbed bronze fittings and ss hose clamps, which are cheap enough to buy. However, I'm using the compression connectors because they do not reduce in diameter. The pressure drop charts I've seen show that SIDR-7 pipe can carry about 2x the volume of water as the the same trade size copper, SCH 80 PVC can carry less than copper. 1" SCH80 PVC carries a volume somewhere between SIDR-7 1/2" and 3/4".
While the SIDR-7 pipe is much cheaper than copper or SCH80 PVC, the compression fittings for SIDR-7 pipe are like $60 for straight fittings and $150 for tees. In my case, I only need one straight fitting because the utility company will attach their end with their fitting and I'll attach my end to a ball valve, then convert to PEX-A inside the house.
From inside the house, I'm using 1" to feed several outside spigots for our various greenhouses and animal pens. So, the approximately double volume of water will come in handy because the home's water pressure won't drop as much when a garden hose (or 2) are being used outside. The truth is, the best way to maintain water pressure, is to maximize water flow, by using the largest pipe that is practical for the application. (Don't oversize hot water because it wastes more hot water).
It still would have been less than $300 to use 1" SIDR-7 and compression fittings for his project. I'm certainly not saying he messed up, I think he did a fine job for a homeowner. But, anyone that has worked professionally installing water mains, is going to choose copper coil, SIDR-7, or SDR-7 roll-pipe to feed their house or business.
would you kindly provide some of the links for the roll and fittings? I need to do something similar 300'+ with 3 T fittings. Some plumbing company came out yesterday and quote me $36,198 for the job using black Polyethylene and when I asked about the connection he said they heat it up and it bonds.
@simple man
Tell more about the project first. Is this tying directly into the municipal water tap?
That's why I had to use the exact pipe that I used. As far as I know, all municipalities have particular specs for what pipe to use, and they're very strict about it.
Thanks for posting in so much detail about what you used and your reasoning. I appreciate having exactly this kind of info to consider when planning projects.
I was just quoted 4800 for this!
Thanks for sharing, I'm going to do it myself. I have almost the exact same situation.
THANKS!!!!!!
Amazing how code is so different in the country. I’m in Pittsburgh, PA. We bury our lines 42” deep. There would have been 6” of sand above and below the pipe, which would have been soft k copper or PE. Generally the water service comes in through the basement wall or slab.
Yeah definitely. I think it mostly has to do with weather/temps. Freeze levels vary regionally which would have an affect on line depth. Thanks for watchin 😎
This video is so underrated. My only critique is... Hydro excavating under the walkway is a great idea unless YOU DONT HAVE WATER!! 😂😂 Oh well, I'll just dig.
I'd be careful about using pvc for a water main. Best to use copper! it's the most durable and reliable type to use for underground.
This was one of the best videos I've seen on how to lay in a main line. Gave me all the info I needed to feel confident I could tackle this myself. Also, wow! The method you used to get a hole under the sidewalk! I had no idea and was dreading the thought of digging under manually. Thanks!
Wow thanks for the kind words!!.. I SOOOO glad I could help by sharing a bit of knowledge. I wish u well in your project! Please feel free to hit me up with any questions as you go along. Thanks for watching!!
- Dom
@@BudgetPlants 990
I just had a bid to replace my old galvanized main line for $8500 😳This was such a helpful video. Thank you!
Awesome!! Glad to be of help :)
Wow that's expensive and very scary
Probably because you have or the company thought you had Service Line Warranties of America (SLWA) coverage. They will cover up to that EXACT amount if repairs or replacement is needed on your supply and/or sewer septic lines.
You think that's expensive..3 different companies wanted 3 different prices starting with $1,600 to $2,900😮😭😭😭 I'm almost 73 & my husband is 75 I saw your Video and I'm going to try this project on my own..the digging is going to be the hardest part..wish me luck🤞.
Awesome!!! Give it a shot! Just maybe get some help with the digging part.. that’s always the worst 😎
I have an inquiry; I’m trying to run water to two rooms that will service a washer and two sinks. I’m tapping off a 1/2 pvc that feeds a hose in the backyard. I wanted to tap from the main but they claim that tapping off will cause the house to lose pressure, not sure if that’s true or not. Will connecting from it(1/2 pipe in backyard) to a 3/4 pipe make it more pressurized or allow or allow it to have better water flow or is it already restricted since it’s from a 1/2 pipe or should I just keep it all 1/2”? It will only run about 25’ to the rooms. How much pressure do I need to have two sinks and a washer machine in an efficiency?
thx for this vid. just closed on my first house 2 months ago, a 70 year old rambler, and the plumbing problems began almost right away. your tutorial saved the day for me.
Hey Gordon, wow that’s music to my ears.. so happy my vid was helpful!! And thanks so much for the wonderful comment. Congrats on the new home!
the blue glue you're using is the wet/dry which is good if the area isnt 100% clean. if its visible though, they make a clear primer and a grey glue to keep it looking clean
This is 100% bunk!
Always use COPPER K pipe with sweat connections on both ends and use BALL valves!
By all means, use PVC or CPVC if you like to constantly dig up / repair your underground piping.
THE white adapter to size up to 1” to attach from the main line is the weakest link….keep an eye on it…
Awesome video!
Would you have done the 1” upgrade if you went with copper? I have a similar job but a 50’ run from main to house.
Always been a "just do it" type of guy. The only thing that truly makes something impossible is to believe that it is, right? I realized how lucky I was sometimes. There was a hose bibb / spigot in line with a galvanized main like you put in. The tee was 50 years old galvanized pipe trying to fix the leaking spigot. Tried unscrewing the spigot - it unscrewed underground. That was one of the worst experiences - dirt falling in the female trying to make it a non-leaking join. Got home depot to hate me then running in at 8:58 while assuring my parents "no, you're not going to have to pay $10 grand"... (crap...) finally got it but later was thinking "oh man... had that tee cracked?" Anyway, certainly agree with you about galvanized :)
I am the Plumber/Fitter Man. Hear me. The dielectric coupling is a union. By its nature, they are expected to leak. By code, you need an access panel. You can't just bury them! You want an easy fix? Installing 6" of brass (like in a threaded nipple) to break the electrolysis, will work.
If you have the time and the inclination, could you explain a bit more about this? I’m sure you know your stuff, but I don’t understand your terminology and which parts of the video you’re reacting to…
This is all post meter. In our area the water main is all pre meter as the meter is inside the house..
Wow, looks like I’m doing this myself now…
Wow! A LOT of VERY impressive helpful hints I wish I had known about for all the years I have had to do similar projects. But know now moving forward for up coming biggest project I've had to face. Finding the main and digging WAY down to it in rocky sandy soil about 6' deep!
Bad glue joints are always the issue. And the mip sch 40....you put in sch 80.....
I disagree that sweating is more complicated than PVC cement even for a DIY'er, but why the claim that copper has less friction? I do not think that is true
Yea it's pretty easy to do lol
Also yea metal has more friction loss than the pvc does, he got it backwards.
But you used a schedule 40 adapter for your valve, so that's a weak link in your schedule 80 idea 😉
Man im jealous. Im in the north and this isnt something an individual can do since water mains are 6 feet deep to avoid the frost layer.
im gonna try your method of shooting water through the soil. I already thought about it but i didnt think the pressure was good enough. The desert soil wear i live is very tuff to dig. I already borrowed my friends concrete saw and i was about to rent a jack hammer til i saw this. ya this is worth a shot. Ive already dug over foot under the concrete and a little over a foot to go so i think this might do it. If it does then dang budy u just saved me 4 hours of heck and also some money. Only thing is i was kinda wanting to put insulation over the pipe. Anyway great video great advice. i noticed that all your joints were actually done properly. I was watching each of the joints and you got it. The one thing people need to watch out for is to never connect male a solid meaning metal, brass, copper etc to a pvc female fitting. You did not do that. If you do the female pvc fitting will crack. Im an hvac guy 16+ years not a plumber but i know a bit about plumbing too. This guy seems to know quite a lot of neat super helpful tricks. Believe me i watched carefully and i didnt see any mistakes at all. such a good video. never seen a video with 0 dislikes EVER.
oh god. i just used ur trick and i got the pipe through this way. that said it took me like an hour to do it. the dirt i have here is mostly all rocks and super hard to get through. I had to keep jabbing at it and going to the meter and pulling the rocks and dirt out by hand You saved my A$$$$$$$$$$!!!!! I friggin love you right now!!!
Ahhhhhhh awesome!!!! So happy to have passed along some helpful info. I learned that little trick a while back and it really got me through some tricky spots on irrigation projects. Thanks for the wonderful comments. You rok!!!
@@BudgetPlants I rock? No. U rock. I was able to repipe my main line cuz of you. THANK YOU SIRE.
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼💪💪💪
You should mention that changing your main to pvc can in many cases cut out the electrical grounding system in your house and you may need to call and electrician afterwards to fix that
That’s a very good point!
Can you explain why that happens?
Your electrical box grounds to either grounding rods or water pipes so if you switch to pvc pipes electricity won't be able to go to ground if you don't have the rods
Pound a freaking rod into the ground. If you can run that water line you can get a ground.
@@Ashroyer86exactly...
Great video, it was suuuper helpful, and lots of good tips! We're trying to do some repairs that seemed quite simple but we knew nothing about plumbing. So we got a guy out here to give us a quote and were told it would be $1,300, and more if they needed to break concrete to get underneath... Nope! After a lot of youtube videos I'm feeling more confident about fixing stuff ourselves and saving $1,000+ thanks!
Fantastic! Yes… You can totally do this. Breaking it down step-by-step, it’s actually fairly simple… Just requires a little elbow grease LOL. Best of luck to you on your project… I’m sure you will annihilate it 💪
U done with the repair
What kind of grass/ground cover is that? Does it need a lot of water or is it a good substitute for grass?
Hey! It’s called Ruschia nana.
Amazing PET FRIENDLY No-Mow Lawn Substitute - Ruschia 'Nana' (Dwarf Carpet of Stars)
th-cam.com/video/omT9k643oBw/w-d-xo.html
Incredible. I was quoted $9600 for the exact same job for 60' from meter to house.
Where are you located ?, in some parts of the United States specially where it freezes water lines has to be installed fairly deep. In other states the main requires copper be used which is expensive. But yeah $9,600 makes you wonder what’s going on.
I’m here in CA so we do t have to consider freezing, but yes in many parts of the US that has to be taken into account. For these kinds of projects, it’s about 80-90% labor charges that drives the cost up. So if folks are able to do their own, it’s worth it! So long as it’s done properly 😎
Did you rule out PEX?
Should’ve used 1” PEX
Awesome job! Love the sch 80 pipe!
Cheers!!! 🍻
You inspired me. I've already dug the trench. I just need to tunnel under the concrete slab.
SWEET!! Good luck on the project 💪😎
I did it! I replaced my water main line. I had a lot of small rocks while tunneling, but the tunneling thingy was strong enough to push them out of the way.
Woohoooooo NIIIIIICEEE!! You just saved yourself thousands 💰💰💰 Well done 👍🏼
Also plastic pipes have less friction loss than copper. This is one of the main reasons for using PVC everywhere now. as well as chlorinated water keeps the molecular structure strong.
Showing yourself wayyyy to much… it’s throwing me off . Clicking back and forth
Why pvc and not pex?
I’d guess it’s because pvc requires less tools and is less intimidating but I was just curious 😀
Why didn't you use pex?
Good entertaining video with helpful info.
Woa, so merticulous,
I want to see what you planted in your yard instead of grass
Amazing PET FRIENDLY No-Mow Lawn Substitute - Ruschia 'Nana' (Dwarf Carpet of Stars) th-cam.com/video/omT9k643oBw/w-d-xo.html
It’s Ruschia nana or “carpet of stars” as his low maintenance lawn. He has another video about it if you check his channel.
Excellent video - very helpful - thank you
Thanks John!! 🙏🏼🙏🏼😎
You are so awesome. Nice job.
THANK U!!!🙏🏼🙏🏼
you have answered me properly,i hope for the better with the information picked. thanks
sch 40 should never be used for a main line!
Hence me using sch 80.
@@BudgetPlants awesome build
Thanks for the tips much appreciated, just saying.
Hydro trench with pressure washer
Definitely the best how to video for main water line install. I’m about to tackle this job this weekend. This will help me a lot and thanks for doing a good job on explaining everything!
Awesome!!.. glad to be of help. Good luck on the project!
Great video! Thanks
Thanks for watchin!! 🙏🏼🙏🏼😎
Thank you for posting. I'm not replacing a line but I'm having a water meter put in for a future cabin in a mountain community and if plumbers in the suburbs are expensive, imagine at nearly 8000. This makes me feel more empowered to deal with things myself.
Fantastic!! so glad this could be of some help. It’s definitely doable. Good luck with the project!
Use copper, not PVC or CPVC !
I really hope that duct tape didn’t touch his leg hairs or that would have been painful to remove. Cool video though.
Hahaa yeah I learned a lesson on that one lol
So nice when you don’t have to worry about freezing, Nice job
Thank you!! Yes, luckily that’s not an issue here.
Great vid
Really good job .
Thanks so much!!!!! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Does code now require it be 1 1/2 or is 1 inch still ok ?
It’s really just about what kind of volume you need. For a 3 bed 2 bath house is do at least 1”. Larger properties I’d definitely upsize.
Great video man .
Ahh thanks!!!! Much appreciated 🙏🏼
-Dom
What about freezing where you have the pipe above ground?
In my location I didn’t have to worry about that, however an insulating wrap for pipe above ground would be needed in some colder climates.
Great video! How do I get past my pine tree roots?!!? 😳
Thanks! I would say to add a few inches of rich loamy topsoil and till it in as best as you can. It may not perform quite as well in the heavily rooted area however.
Shut this site off
How much of this actually complies with the National Plumbing Codes???
Noob question but why was pvc used and not pex?
Pex is another good product. I work with pvc all the time so I am more familiar with it and it’s capabilities. Nothing wrong with either product.
@@BudgetPlants What about 3/4 CPVC schedule 40?
The main difference is that CPVC can withstand higher temps. It also has a higher resistance to highly chlorinated water. So it’s fine to use and helpful in some cases, but generally not necessary.
where did you buy the pvc and parts at?
The VERY best place to get all sorts of irrigation and landscape supplies is Ewing Irrigation. They have everything you would need to complete a project like this. The staff are incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. They cater to both contractors and homeowners. Definitely a major step up from the big box stores… And have much more professional commercial grade materials. I recommend going to their website to see if they have a store close to your location. Thanks for watching!
Not sure which of his three eyes to look at... 👁👁👁😝
Where did you buy all these supplies?
Company called Ewing irrigation all over the county maybe one near you
GREAT JOB, EXCELENT VIDEO.
Cheers!! 🍻 👍😎 Thanks for watchin!
gracias
Great video, thank you. After you uncovered your Union with the valve, you showed a scene where the pipes were as clean as can be at the 4:42 mark. Any tips on how to get the pipes that clean to work on? I have dug down and have uncovered the pipes, but they are encrusted in mud. Wire brush maybe? I was thinking maybe even a hose, then shop vac the water back out. Thank you again. Troy Miller, Kansas City, MO
Hey Troy, I replied to your email, but also wanted to reply here as well. I recommend using a pressure nozzle on a standard hose. If that’s not strong enough, you can go to a pressure washing machine with a fan nozzle. Just keep it on the lower pressure settings. Good luck!
Save ton of money and have all that plastic leach into your water even more than its already contaminated with who knows what!
hi bud , your show , ?? everyone works different, we don't use ball valve , we use ball valve, some plumber pvc or copper, 3/ 4 , some plumber use ball valve, not gate valve, !!
This dude made a simple job so so so complicated