Wow! I am a retired nurse with this same issue. I got someone to do the work. He didn't charge a lot. He explained things to me. Your drawing and video really helped a lot. Thanks
Incredibly insightful - I really appreciate the step by step diagram with annotations. As an architectural designer, these items are typically left to our engineers to define, so your walkthrough helped me piece together a lot of gaps in my knowledge. Thanks for the breakdown!
Thanks for the video. I don’t have a broken water line but my water company is offering me an insurance so I was looking into this video and I think I can do this myself. 💪💪💪
Just had to do this exact job on my house. Water company changed the meter and it messed up the old pipes on my side. Only difference is i had a cement slab about a foot wide and 4 inches deep to treverse. Plus, my landlord went with flex PVC. Not sure if It'll last. Ive been hearing negative reviews about it
you def saved more than $1k, my meter is closer than yours and they wanted to charge me $1k just to fix the leak and almost $2k to replace all the pipe...no sir.
GREAT instructional-video indeed, Brother Chris - well explained. Plus, I really liked seeing the VERY cute lil Kitty that jumped out at 8:55min! Did you allow cute lil Kitty to help you too!? 😺
Great. I have this leak on the pipe, been looking for it all over the house but none is visible. The way bill has recently rose to 575 from 100, I guess the leakage is on the pipe leading to the house.
could easily put a Spindown ISPRING wsp100 minimum at point of entry after your valve for access- Keeps the big grains of sand etc. ruining all things further inside. You can purge it every few months and be amazed. All filter after it will thank you.
At least you have a straight shot mine has prob 3 90 degree turns and goes under foundation into crawl space I have valve in house shut off now to see if it's something leaking in house plumbing or between house and outside meter.
The part where you burned yourself 😂😂😂😂 great job tho budy. I was thinking about buying a cabin built in 1930 the pipes are galvanized and I’m sure the line to the water main is gonna need to be replaced
there was a storm where i live but i think there’s a leak in the waterline but i think it’s on the city side. is there any way to tell without digging?
If you dont mind me asking, what state are you located? My meter is very similar to yours. I dont have a shut off besides the one at the meter and its "required" to call them to shut off. I bought a water key but is hard to shut off and Ilm affraid to apply pressure to turn it. I need to install my own shut off and might as well get rid of the galvanized water lines while Im at it. Just wondering if the depth of mine would be deeper living in a colder state. Im in Indiana and it can get quite cold here. It's like -5 right now in the am hours.
Next to the meter there should be a curb valve. They can get pretty sticky or hard to turn if they haven’t been used in a long time. I’m in NC. So it certainly could be different in Indiana. Mine is similar to Chris video
Not saying you didn’t do a good job, sometimes materials fail even if it’s brand new. In todays post Covid world it seems like quality standards have dropped. Also if you didn’t inspect the pipe it could have unseen damage I.e. pin hole, hair line/seam line cracks. Who knows maybe a contractor from Home Depot drilled a hole in section and returned the wrong piece when no longer needed it….Pressure testing it before backfilling to check for leaks would be a good idea.
when you know what you are doing you don’t “hope” or “cross your fingers” when you build or make a repair… you create problems when you worry about delusional possibilities.. just glue the damn pipe
why did that take 8 hours , did that include excavating and backfilling. Not sure why you used 2x45's when a 90 would save you a fitting. MDPE vs PVC. At the main there would be a taping band or tapping saddle, with a talbot ferrule or a ballvalve with the service line going to the meter. Was that a pulse reader on your meter.@@chriscraft2
90s are ok on supply lines. 2 45s is a good idea on drain pipes where there are solids trying to make that 90 degree turn. Just wanted to mention that, not trying to be argumentative
looks easy, do you need any permits to do it yourself at your home?
a permit is a reason for them to raise your taxes because you improved.., you be the judge
@chriscraft2 but legally, do you need a permit?
Wow! I am a retired nurse with this same issue. I got someone to do the work. He didn't charge a lot. He explained things to me. Your drawing and video really helped a lot. Thanks
Thank you for this video. I had never done this work before but I now see how easy it is. Thank you again!
I'm amazed at your ability to just sketch in 3-D
Me too
Nice job and you are a pretty good artist too! Thanks for sharing.
Slainte,
DC
Incredibly insightful - I really appreciate the step by step diagram with annotations. As an architectural designer, these items are typically left to our engineers to define, so your walkthrough helped me piece together a lot of gaps in my knowledge. Thanks for the breakdown!
Excellent job and pictures! You explained everything in detail! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Whenever you're replacing your main water line under ground with anything other than copper. You must add a copper ground line beside it. Good Video
Thanks for the video. I don’t have a broken water line but my water company is offering me an insurance so I was looking into this video and I think I can do this myself. 💪💪💪
Thanks for the video! Great job
I recently had to do the same but I ended up going with Pex B due to freak freezing times here in Texas.
Just had to do this exact job on my house. Water company changed the meter and it messed up the old pipes on my side. Only difference is i had a cement slab about a foot wide and 4 inches deep to treverse. Plus, my landlord went with flex PVC. Not sure if It'll last. Ive been hearing negative reviews about it
Thank you for detail introduction. your drawing is amazing
Which area do you live in? Some areas require minimum 36” dig to prevent the line from freezing.
you def saved more than $1k, my meter is closer than yours and they wanted to charge me $1k just to fix the leak and almost $2k to replace all the pipe...no sir.
GREAT instructional-video indeed, Brother Chris - well explained. Plus, I really liked seeing the VERY cute lil Kitty that jumped out at 8:55min! Did you allow cute lil Kitty to help you too!? 😺
Great. I have this leak on the pipe, been looking for it all over the house but none is visible. The way bill has recently rose to 575 from 100, I guess the leakage is on the pipe leading to the house.
My water bill is increasing but there isn’t a visible sign of water in the yard. How can I find the leak?
Awesome video, Chris! Thank You!!
where can you connect to the house? Would same line as hoes bib work? Run from meter to hose bib and connect it there?
could easily put a Spindown ISPRING wsp100 minimum at point of entry after your valve for access- Keeps the big grains of sand etc. ruining all things further inside. You can purge it every few months and be amazed. All filter after it will thank you.
Wondrous. Thank you for sharing. 💙💛
At least you have a straight shot mine has prob 3 90 degree turns and goes under foundation into crawl space I have valve in house shut off now to see if it's something leaking in house plumbing or between house and outside meter.
like the drawings.
Very helpful video mate. Nice work. Thanks.
Excellent video dude.......
The part where you burned yourself 😂😂😂😂 great job tho budy. I was thinking about buying a cabin built in 1930 the pipes are galvanized and I’m sure the line to the water main is gonna need to be replaced
there was a storm where i live but i think there’s a leak in the waterline but i think it’s on the city side. is there any way to tell without digging?
If it was on the citys side it doesnt show up on the meter.
If you dont mind me asking, what state are you located? My meter is very similar to yours. I dont have a shut off besides the one at the meter and its "required" to call them to shut off. I bought a water key but is hard to shut off and Ilm affraid to apply pressure to turn it. I need to install my own shut off and might as well get rid of the galvanized water lines while Im at it. Just wondering if the depth of mine would be deeper living in a colder state. Im in Indiana and it can get quite cold here. It's like -5 right now in the am hours.
I’m in Houston, tx.. you do things different where you are
Next to the meter there should be a curb valve. They can get pretty sticky or hard to turn if they haven’t been used in a long time. I’m in NC. So it certainly could be different in Indiana. Mine is similar to Chris video
Great job and explanations!!
awesome work
Do you not have to have a water pressure regulator from main line to house?
the pressure is maintained by the water plant not the homeowner. I’m in Houston, TX
You back fill everything before making sure the new line didn’t leak?
why would it have leaked? 🤔
Not saying you didn’t do a good job, sometimes materials fail even if it’s brand new. In todays post Covid world it seems like quality standards have dropped. Also if you didn’t inspect the pipe it could have unseen damage I.e. pin hole, hair line/seam line cracks. Who knows maybe a contractor from Home Depot drilled a hole in section and returned the wrong piece when no longer needed it….Pressure testing it before backfilling to check for leaks would be a good idea.
when you know what you are doing you don’t “hope” or “cross your fingers” when you build or make a repair… you create problems when you worry about delusional possibilities.. just glue the damn pipe
Mine is different the meter is in the basement but I am responsible on red that you draw, from corporation stop and on is theirs.
How long did it take for you to complete this project? Good job!
8 hours
why did that take 8 hours , did that include excavating and backfilling. Not sure why you used 2x45's when a 90 would save you a fitting. MDPE vs PVC. At the main there would be a taping band or tapping saddle, with a talbot ferrule or a ballvalve with the service line going to the meter. Was that a pulse reader on your meter.@@chriscraft2
Excellent! Thank you!
That's a mans work there. Thank you for the info.
Exactley what I needed to know. Thank you!
why dont you use pex?
90s are ok on supply lines. 2 45s is a good idea on drain pipes where there are solids trying to make that 90 degree turn. Just wanted to mention that, not trying to be argumentative
Excellent video. thanks.
Awesome. Thank you!
should run wire along the new pvc so that pipe can be detected from surface in future years
Hey guys, anyone know what the adapter you put onto the water nipple called pls?
Could you use PEX
Can you post a link to the pvc cement you used?
Omg!!! Thanks so much for the insight!!
No prv?
not in Houston, TX
Thank you
I would’ve test no leak before covering with dirt
❤ Dylan
No 90* ?
lot of boroughs won't allow you to tap into the main with drills and it's done by hand with a tap machine. not my favorite part of work
Nice job. But I like pex
As long as you call digsafe first, and stay away from the city meter side you should be OK.
😊
I knew a guy named Chris Craft in high school. Ironically, he died in a boating accident.
Great video, Chris. Thank you!
Awesome. Thank you!!