Note: removing this sensor is pretty hard from small hole it has for it to go through so instead trying to fit it through I cut the wires. Did same for new part too, then soldered wires together properly covered with heat shrinks and then covered all of three wires with one bigger heat shrink. This approach worked and car has worked for years later normally.
@@rubyredta22 I don't understand this commenting really. Obviously its too late for me to reverse whats done. I don't see cutting and reconnecting those wires so bad thing unless you ruin it by cold solder joint causing poor signal or later breaking up. I see those connector plugs as a bigger possible issue than this.
On my Seat this sensor wire goes to belt side from small hole which allows sensor connector to come out. There is rubber seal protecting this fitting hole from dust getting at belt side, this rubber seal can be removed with some sort of hook from right side. You need to remove sensor by pulling it out at the belt's side. In my case I had timing belt in a way so I could not get it out. You may have same problem. I do not have VW tools to ease up timing belt and no guts to do so... so I cut old signal wire half, then I noticed that signal wire is normal copper wire, nothing special to have answer that can I use soldering iron to solder new one together if I cut that also. Getting that cut wire thru was so much faster and easier. After getting it thru I fitted heat shrinks on individual wires, soldered them well, put heat shrinks in place and then protected wire with plastic tubing which was on that new sensor as well as in old one. Have had no problem nor trouble codes after this so I count it as success. Time-wise this takes about from hour to two.
@@jazzyjeffrey2034 New sensor cost 160 euros in my local store. I remember using this video as reference; th-cam.com/video/r4GzRBmhMO0/w-d-xo.html Maybe this can help you. And yes your description of problem sounds very familiar.
@@norkator That is another engine, a single cam, sensor change is about 10 minutes on that one :) Maybe bit more due to cover removing etc. But this BKD is twin cam and in front of the hole where the sensor connector has to go through, there is a pulley and belt... so that is a bit nasty and taking you more time
By the way, car will work even without this sensor but at warm engine starting is harder, takes longer to spin engine.
Note: removing this sensor is pretty hard from small hole it has for it to go through so instead trying to fit it through I cut the wires. Did same for new part too, then soldered wires together properly covered with heat shrinks and then covered all of three wires with one bigger heat shrink. This approach worked and car has worked for years later normally.
You don't cut the wires. The plug end pulls through the hole just fine.
@@rubyredta22 you don't, I did. Easier for me and has been working perfectly fine so I lost nothing doing so and I saved my sanity.
@@norkator ? Not sure how cutting and rejoining wires is a good thing, when the plug fits through the grommet hole. I did it on the weekend.
@@rubyredta22 I don't understand this commenting really. Obviously its too late for me to reverse whats done. I don't see cutting and reconnecting those wires so bad thing unless you ruin it by cold solder joint causing poor signal or later breaking up. I see those connector plugs as a bigger possible issue than this.
@@norkator the comment is to let others know that cutting the sensor wires is completely unnecessary
what was the fault code you were getting?
Code: P3007 (Camshaft Position Sensor G40)
Was the replacing hard? I had to do it on my BKD Octavia. At least i know where should i look at, so thanks anyway.
On my Seat this sensor wire goes to belt side from small hole which allows sensor connector to come out. There is rubber seal protecting this fitting hole from dust getting at belt side, this rubber seal can be removed with some sort of hook from right side. You need to remove sensor by pulling it out at the belt's side.
In my case I had timing belt in a way so I could not get it out. You may have same problem. I do not have VW tools to ease up timing belt and no guts to do so... so I cut old signal wire half, then I noticed that signal wire is normal copper wire, nothing special to have answer that can I use soldering iron to solder new one together if I cut that also. Getting that cut wire thru was so much faster and easier. After getting it thru I fitted heat shrinks on individual wires, soldered them well, put heat shrinks in place and then protected wire with plastic tubing which was on that new sensor as well as in old one. Have had no problem nor trouble codes after this so I count it as success.
Time-wise this takes about from hour to two.
@@norkator Well thank you so much for this manual. Im gonna do this today, so wish me luck :)
@@jazzyjeffrey2034 New sensor cost 160 euros in my local store. I remember using this video as reference; th-cam.com/video/r4GzRBmhMO0/w-d-xo.html
Maybe this can help you. And yes your description of problem sounds very familiar.
@@norkator That is another engine, a single cam, sensor change is about 10 minutes on that one :) Maybe bit more due to cover removing etc. But this BKD is twin cam and in front of the hole where the sensor connector has to go through, there is a pulley and belt... so that is a bit nasty and taking you more time
Hey, how old is your cambelt and the idler? I dont know what is the right position the they run the first minutes after the engine is warm. THX
Cambelt 1,5 years old now. The rest -> I don't know, I am not specialist on this subject.
@@norkator ah okay cool thx. can you tell me how km you drive on it?
@@audisportbacktdi5575 +30tkm with new belt, car totally about 146tkm now.
@@norkator Thank you :)