Is it enough to just grind away the rust? Cause i did some stick-welding on really rusty old metal, the stuff that's sat outside for 20+ years. I did grind it clean before the welds, but i still couldnt get a proper nice puddle or bead, almost all came out horrible and inconsistent. I'm typically a pretty good stick-welder, but for that project i couldnt get anything done right.. Thinking maybe the metal underneath the rust is still so heavily affected that it doesnt matter if you grind it clean or not? I did work with very cheap welder and the cheapest electrodes money can buy, so it may also have affected.
Sheet metal is very thin so you can manipulate the weld pool very easily to push out all of the impurities. With a good quality stick, and thick steel, you would be able to do the same thing.
I have the same problem, I suggest you avoid cast iron , if you're going to deal with heavy rust use 6010 or 6011 electrodes, because I couldn't find any of the two I was forced to buy cheap E6013 ones which weld like crap and are no-dig electrodes! My advice is clean the metal thoroughly with a thick grinding wheel and really get in there!😂
So let’s say I’ve done some welding & the back side wasn’t done all the way thru . What kind of rust dissolver should I use to treat it and finish welding it completely ??
@@ChristianHernandez-vm2fk if you can grind the rust off, I would recommend you do so and then use phosphoric acid(sometimes called prep & etch) to neutralize the remaining rust followed by some sort of rust encapsulator. Once rust sets in, theres almost no way to 100% get rid of it so you just gotta do what you can
@@NightWrencher yeah I figured it would be a pain to get rid of it . Luckily it’s not too thick in the area I’m welding so hopefully it comes off . I appreciate your response !
@@ChristianHernandez-vm2fk no problem 👍 for clarification, grind, weld, acid, scrub, rinse with water, air dry or apply heat to dry and finally rust encapsulator over everything.
I'm making a video on that but basically you turn down the wire speed and turn down the heat as low as you can and zap the metal for a split second. You cant weld beads on thin metal like 20ga or 22ga, youll burn right through it so your best bet is to run tacks all the way around. Check out my welding holes videos and its basically the same thing
@@NightWrencher Yeah I watched it before I asked here, that's how I had been doing it but wanted to make sure, thanks for taking the time to make these for all of us
Theres a whole flux core welding playlist here on the channel full of videos like this so check it out!
Does it create a puddle if you are welding upside down?
Is it enough to just grind away the rust? Cause i did some stick-welding on really rusty old metal, the stuff that's sat outside for 20+ years. I did grind it clean before the welds, but i still couldnt get a proper nice puddle or bead, almost all came out horrible and inconsistent. I'm typically a pretty good stick-welder, but for that project i couldnt get anything done right.. Thinking maybe the metal underneath the rust is still so heavily affected that it doesnt matter if you grind it clean or not? I did work with very cheap welder and the cheapest electrodes money can buy, so it may also have affected.
Sheet metal is very thin so you can manipulate the weld pool very easily to push out all of the impurities. With a good quality stick, and thick steel, you would be able to do the same thing.
I have the same problem, I suggest you avoid cast iron , if you're going to deal with heavy rust use 6010 or 6011 electrodes, because I couldn't find any of the two I was forced to buy cheap E6013 ones which weld like crap and are no-dig electrodes!
My advice is clean the metal thoroughly with a thick grinding wheel and really get in there!😂
So let’s say I’ve done some welding & the back side wasn’t done all the way thru . What kind of rust dissolver should I use to treat it and finish welding it completely ??
@@ChristianHernandez-vm2fk if you can grind the rust off, I would recommend you do so and then use phosphoric acid(sometimes called prep & etch) to neutralize the remaining rust followed by some sort of rust encapsulator. Once rust sets in, theres almost no way to 100% get rid of it so you just gotta do what you can
@@NightWrencher yeah I figured it would be a pain to get rid of it . Luckily it’s not too thick in the area I’m welding so hopefully it comes off . I appreciate your response !
@@ChristianHernandez-vm2fk no problem 👍 for clarification, grind, weld, acid, scrub, rinse with water, air dry or apply heat to dry and finally rust encapsulator over everything.
Du bist der Hammer! Fantastisch!!!!
Thank you! I hope it helps!
@@NightWrencher it helps very much, keep going!
Does the Rusty ground also cause non continuous arc issue ?
Yes sir it does!
@@NightWrencher thank you sir 😊
Put a guard on your grinder
That would be a good Idea 😂
@@NightWrencher why the funny face?
Because I was laughing...?
You could go blind
What about welding thin metal?
I'm making a video on that but basically you turn down the wire speed and turn down the heat as low as you can and zap the metal for a split second. You cant weld beads on thin metal like 20ga or 22ga, youll burn right through it so your best bet is to run tacks all the way around. Check out my welding holes videos and its basically the same thing
@@NightWrencher Yeah I watched it before I asked here, that's how I had been doing it but wanted to make sure, thanks for taking the time to make these for all of us
Ty
An I need those gloves, the ones I have are big and irritating.
Harbor freights got everything you need 😂
@@NightWrencher I'll get them soon. How's the building coming along?
Slow because Ive been working waay too much. Havnt done anything hence the lack of videos
Plasma cut areas aren't clean, they're contaminated with dross and oxides, they just happen to be less dirty than the rest of what's being welded