Hey there! Using your video, I managed to replace the flyback in my own beloved Apple Studio Display! I just wanted to say thank you so much for making this video. Without your advice and tips, I don’t think I could’ve done it. That being said, I have a couple things to add onto the information in the video, in case someone else wants to do this repair: The plastic piece on the back of the PCB, since you said you couldn’t figure out how to remove it without breaking it, I just decided to leave that piece assembled and desolder around it. I managed to get all the pins (including the capacitor you have to remove) without melting the plastic… too much. Lol. When desoldering the flyback, even when you get all the pins it’s in there pretty tight and won’t budge at first. After I was sure all of the solder was out of the holes, I used a flathead screwdriver and a little bit of brute force to pry it up. The capacitor you have to remove is C537, I don’t think that was mentioned in the video. I also had a hard time clipping it because it’s between 2 other capacitors of the same size. I just desoldered it, fortunately it was MUCH easier than desoldering the flyback. I used desoldering wick for all of it btw. For the wires that come out of the new flyback and go into the neck board, the two thicker wires detach from the board using a button mechanism. You push the little tab on the side of the hole and it unclamps the wire, and you can pull it right out. And, as long as you strip the wire on the new flyback to the same length, you can do the same thing going in, no splicing or desoldering required. For the focus wire I did have to splice that because it uses some kind of connector that I couldn’t figure out how to disassemble, but since that wire sends fewer than 1000V I just wrapped it in like 20 layers of electrical tape to be safe. When you’re adjusting the focus, I think one knob controls the overall focus and the other controls the difference between the horizontal and vertical focus. So I found that when displaying a test pattern and trying to adjust it, it’s easiest to adjust the difference to get the vertical and horizontal lines to even amounts of blurriness, then adjust the focus to bring both of them to where you want. For anyone else who wants to attempt this repair, good luck! It’s very time consuming and definitely helps to have someone there to help you, but it’s possible! I’ve got it up and running and it looks great. I’ve got pictures and more details here: www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/s/LN4kvROdbj
Desoldering is easier if you first use a bit of flux, and leaded solder to “wet” the joints with a soldering iron before attacking it with your hakko desoldering gun
Im amazed by visiting your channel, you are very genius in ai making and knowledge about ai, I have a huge request for you , please share your knowledge by making videos on how you do this and teaching others on TH-cam!
Perhapse as an aside, there exists self fusing tape that is used as an overlap for high voltage wires. It doesnt really seem to have an adhesive, but when wrapped over itself it becomes a single piece over the course of a few hours. It can be expensive, but I buy it because I use so little of it. One example is Scotch 70 which has 34kV/mm dielectric strength. Note that you strech it as you wrap, so each layer is thinner but there will be more wraps for a given length of tape. It can get you out of a bind.
I did not know there was such a thing as self-fusing tape! TIL! If the Scotch 70 is 0.3mm thick, then I calculate you'd want to wrap it at least 3 layers thick, probably more to factor in stretching. Or maybe use it on top of heat-shrink tubing.
I got one of these CRTs like a year ago with flyback issues, and picked up a replacement flyback around then as well. Never got around to installing it, but this video came up on my feed recently so once I figure out where I put the flyback I think I have a new project. I also saw someone on the 68kmla found a 5v power source on one of the boards used that to power a fan which they attached to the RF shield, so that might not be a bad idea to do to help keep the monitor cooler and make it last longer with the new flyback(assuming the original failure of the flyback is heat related)
you know 2 years ago when you made a valorant how long do you think it would take me to make one if i have no experience making bots I really want to make one i realy need to know
yo! I’m having a strange issue with my 1998 iMac G3. It works without any problems initially, but when it’s left on for a long time, a weird bug occurs that’s difficult to pinpoint. After being on for an extended period, my iMac G3 simply goes into a black screen mode if there’s any change in video resolution. Additionally, when I turn it off and try to turn it back on, the power LED stays green, never turning off, and the machine doesn’t power back on. The same happens during a reboot; instead of the LED turning yellow and then green, it doesn’t return from the reboot. Even with the startup chime playing, the screen remains black. The only solution is to unplug it and plug it back in. After being unplugged for a while, it returns to normal, but the bug reappears if it’s left on for several hours, typically two or more. I’m not sure if this is an issue with the mainboard, power supply, or analog board. I’ve already recapped 100% of the capacitors, and while the bug used to be permanent, it’s now intermittent. At first, I thought the recap had solved the problem since I only used the iMac for a short time, but when I use it for longer periods, the bug always comes back. It only stabilizes if it’s unplugged for at least 10 hours. Any attempt to turn it back on after the bug appears is futile. Do you recommend checking any specific chip or shutdown signal? Thanks for the help. Oh, I forgot to mention, only the electrolytic capacitors were replaced during the recap.
There is a guy on my local marketplace with one of these, the problem is that it doesn't work. I'm researching it's defects to see if it's worth the gamble
had two graphite 17” ones back in the day one developed the problem and was then later stolen. i replaced it with Sony Vaio trinitron crt. the other developed the issue too and i sold it as is with the G4 to a friends girlfriend when i got an iMac G4. later heard that a few months later it died in spectacular fashion.
Personally I've been looking for someone to repair mine for about half a year now, CRT repair in Norway seems to just be completely dead, and while my monitor has been turned off and unplugged since May, I'm still iffy on doing the repair myself
The 21” version was a different design and manufacturer, and didn’t have this particular issue. Might want to check that you’re not having a different problem.
@@riveducha Its hard to get good information. Yes the 21 inch was a Trinitron as opposed to a Diamondtron, and maybe the flyback is better, but I am still getting flyback issues. Rarely the screen goes black for a sec, and then the picture expands back to full screen with a snap/click noise, from my inexperience I believe its the flyback arcing. I heard that the flyback only arcs when the refresh rate is set high, and I think that's what i'm seeing too, but I need to do more testing. The same company made a replacement flyback for the 21 inch too (I believe it's HR 46323) but they told me its not available to order... : ( Not sure what to do.
Hi River, my girlfriend got me the 21" version of this monitor with the G3 PC, keyboard and mouse and its amazing the good state its still today. The problem I'm having is that the screen makes like a strange flickering brightnes up and down for some minutes and stops some seconds and does it again. Its strange and I'm not sure what can be. I played with it a lot but its horrible seeing this strange behaviour with the brithgnes moving up and down so fast constantly. Do you have any idea? Thanks and great video mate :)
Just wanted to drop a comment to thank you for this video. Really helped me get mine repaired. BTW I was able to get that plastic bracket out with no breakage… until the very end when I put everything back together and cross threaded one of the screws that holds the stand on. I was pissed I got 99% done with nothing gone wrong up to that point. Those flybacks are extremely hard to come by now. The part mentioned in your video has not been available for quite some time now. I found a guy selling them as part number Y265382A. The transaction was a little sketchy as he didn’t take PayPal or credit card, only bitcoin or you could mail a check. I decided to take the chance and pay bitcoin. I did get the part and it was the correct one.
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [2/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qJbQs_nhjD4/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey there! Using your video, I managed to replace the flyback in my own beloved Apple Studio Display! I just wanted to say thank you so much for making this video. Without your advice and tips, I don’t think I could’ve done it.
That being said, I have a couple things to add onto the information in the video, in case someone else wants to do this repair:
The plastic piece on the back of the PCB, since you said you couldn’t figure out how to remove it without breaking it, I just decided to leave that piece assembled and desolder around it. I managed to get all the pins (including the capacitor you have to remove) without melting the plastic… too much. Lol.
When desoldering the flyback, even when you get all the pins it’s in there pretty tight and won’t budge at first. After I was sure all of the solder was out of the holes, I used a flathead screwdriver and a little bit of brute force to pry it up.
The capacitor you have to remove is C537, I don’t think that was mentioned in the video. I also had a hard time clipping it because it’s between 2 other capacitors of the same size. I just desoldered it, fortunately it was MUCH easier than desoldering the flyback. I used desoldering wick for all of it btw.
For the wires that come out of the new flyback and go into the neck board, the two thicker wires detach from the board using a button mechanism. You push the little tab on the side of the hole and it unclamps the wire, and you can pull it right out. And, as long as you strip the wire on the new flyback to the same length, you can do the same thing going in, no splicing or desoldering required. For the focus wire I did have to splice that because it uses some kind of connector that I couldn’t figure out how to disassemble, but since that wire sends fewer than 1000V I just wrapped it in like 20 layers of electrical tape to be safe.
When you’re adjusting the focus, I think one knob controls the overall focus and the other controls the difference between the horizontal and vertical focus. So I found that when displaying a test pattern and trying to adjust it, it’s easiest to adjust the difference to get the vertical and horizontal lines to even amounts of blurriness, then adjust the focus to bring both of them to where you want.
For anyone else who wants to attempt this repair, good luck! It’s very time consuming and definitely helps to have someone there to help you, but it’s possible! I’ve got it up and running and it looks great. I’ve got pictures and more details here: www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/s/LN4kvROdbj
I’m so happy this video helped you! Your setup looks amazing and I appreciate the extra info you shared!
@@riveduchamax resolution hertz ?
@@xani123123 800x600 at max 136hz , from gtx titan x " dvi-i to vga adapter "
Desoldering is easier if you first use a bit of flux, and leaded solder to “wet” the joints with a soldering iron before attacking it with your hakko desoldering gun
I think it would be cool if you revisited the Valorant bot and upgraded it!
Please do this
Im amazed by visiting your channel, you are very genius in ai making and knowledge about ai, I have a huge request for you , please share your knowledge by making videos on how you do this and teaching others on TH-cam!
Perhapse as an aside, there exists self fusing tape that is used as an overlap for high voltage wires. It doesnt really seem to have an adhesive, but when wrapped over itself it becomes a single piece over the course of a few hours. It can be expensive, but I buy it because I use so little of it. One example is Scotch 70 which has 34kV/mm dielectric strength. Note that you strech it as you wrap, so each layer is thinner but there will be more wraps for a given length of tape. It can get you out of a bind.
I did not know there was such a thing as self-fusing tape! TIL! If the Scotch 70 is 0.3mm thick, then I calculate you'd want to wrap it at least 3 layers thick, probably more to factor in stretching. Or maybe use it on top of heat-shrink tubing.
I got one of these CRTs like a year ago with flyback issues, and picked up a replacement flyback around then as well. Never got around to installing it, but this video came up on my feed recently so once I figure out where I put the flyback I think I have a new project.
I also saw someone on the 68kmla found a 5v power source on one of the boards used that to power a fan which they attached to the RF shield, so that might not be a bad idea to do to help keep the monitor cooler and make it last longer with the new flyback(assuming the original failure of the flyback is heat related)
you know 2 years ago when you made a valorant how long do you think it would take me to make one if i have no experience making bots I really want to make one i realy need to know
yo! I’m having a strange issue with my 1998 iMac G3. It works without any problems initially, but when it’s left on for a long time, a weird bug occurs that’s difficult to pinpoint. After being on for an extended period, my iMac G3 simply goes into a black screen mode if there’s any change in video resolution. Additionally, when I turn it off and try to turn it back on, the power LED stays green, never turning off, and the machine doesn’t power back on. The same happens during a reboot; instead of the LED turning yellow and then green, it doesn’t return from the reboot. Even with the startup chime playing, the screen remains black. The only solution is to unplug it and plug it back in. After being unplugged for a while, it returns to normal, but the bug reappears if it’s left on for several hours, typically two or more. I’m not sure if this is an issue with the mainboard, power supply, or analog board. I’ve already recapped 100% of the capacitors, and while the bug used to be permanent, it’s now intermittent. At first, I thought the recap had solved the problem since I only used the iMac for a short time, but when I use it for longer periods, the bug always comes back. It only stabilizes if it’s unplugged for at least 10 hours. Any attempt to turn it back on after the bug appears is futile. Do you recommend checking any specific chip or shutdown signal? Thanks for the help. Oh, I forgot to mention, only the electrolytic capacitors were replaced during the recap.
Where can I buy a brand new flyback transformer for an iMac g3 ?
Great video! Thanks for sharing! Can you share a link where you purchased the flyback? Thanks in advance
Should be in the description’s link. But last time I checked the US reseller was sold out :(
There is a guy on my local marketplace with one of these, the problem is that it doesn't work. I'm researching it's defects to see if it's worth the gamble
the EV of that monitor on marketplace is $0 or less lol
Can you please continue your teaching ai to play valorant series?
where is the valorant ai series bro that shit was good to watch
Hello, i would like to reproduce a part of your pragramm about valorant tracking. Where would it be possible to message you to talk about it ?
Where did you buy your flyback transformer?
what is that you using editing program?
Thanks!
Hey! Hope it helped you out! Would love to hear about how it went for you if you tried it!
had two graphite 17” ones back in the day one developed the problem and was then later stolen. i replaced it with Sony Vaio trinitron crt. the other developed the issue too and i sold it as is with the G4 to a friends girlfriend when i got an iMac G4. later heard that a few months later it died in spectacular fashion.
Hello! I just acquired a 21 inch version of this CRT and been wondering if there's a way to adjust its geometry without Mac?
There is a Linux way, look it up
Personally I've been looking for someone to repair mine for about half a year now, CRT repair in Norway seems to just be completely dead, and while my monitor has been turned off and unplugged since May, I'm still iffy on doing the repair myself
I have the 21in version, what is the name if the flyback transformer part i need to buy?
The 21” version was a different design and manufacturer, and didn’t have this particular issue. Might want to check that you’re not having a different problem.
@@riveducha Its hard to get good information. Yes the 21 inch was a Trinitron as opposed to a Diamondtron, and maybe the flyback is better, but I am still getting flyback issues.
Rarely the screen goes black for a sec, and then the picture expands back to full screen with a snap/click noise, from my inexperience I believe its the flyback arcing.
I heard that the flyback only arcs when the refresh rate is set high, and I think that's what i'm seeing too, but I need to do more testing.
The same company made a replacement flyback for the 21 inch too (I believe it's HR 46323) but they told me its not available to order... : (
Not sure what to do.
Hi River, my girlfriend got me the 21" version of this monitor with the G3 PC, keyboard and mouse and its amazing the good state its still today. The problem I'm having is that the screen makes like a strange flickering brightnes up and down for some minutes and stops some seconds and does it again. Its strange and I'm not sure what can be. I played with it a lot but its horrible seeing this strange behaviour with the brithgnes moving up and down so fast constantly.
Do you have any idea? Thanks and great video mate :)
worst monitor? 17 inch trinitron seems pretty good to me
Using carpet as a work mat for any electronic repair is an odd choice…..
I’d argue it’s the second worst monitor.. the AppleVision 1710 was so horribly unreliable.
Just wanted to drop a comment to thank you for this video. Really helped me get mine repaired. BTW I was able to get that plastic bracket out with no breakage… until the very end when I put everything back together and cross threaded one of the screws that holds the stand on. I was pissed I got 99% done with nothing gone wrong up to that point.
Those flybacks are extremely hard to come by now. The part mentioned in your video has not been available for quite some time now. I found a guy selling them as part number Y265382A. The transaction was a little sketchy as he didn’t take PayPal or credit card, only bitcoin or you could mail a check. I decided to take the chance and pay bitcoin. I did get the part and it was the correct one.