I wouldn't waste my money on the smd. It probably only costs $20 each to have them made in china and he wants $500 for one. I'm glad bass head garage came out with a cheap accurate one.
Grumpy Leprechaun has bills & baby 👶 momma 💰 🤑 💸 B.H.G. is in Russia or near Russia, they want to make a lil money 💰 & be happy 😊 SMD... well I think 🤔 he is a lil specialer 🎉
SMD is a cry baby. I used to respect him but he gets so mad when you ask him a question regarding his products instead of being professional he just goes on to insult you 😂
Yep! I had that exact same situation with him when I asked a question about a product..A legit respectful question? Told me do u know who I am like if he was the audio god of all audio or something..Was like WTF is this guy's problem
Electrical engineer here. I think what's happening is the SMD is reading power as peak-to-peak while the BHG is measuring RMS. Whenever making a power measurement of a sine wave, the common way multimeters do it is to find the peak voltage and multiply it by 0.707. so, for 100 volts, that's 70.7 volts. They do the same with the amps, so 100 amps is 70.7 amps. 100 volts times 100 amps is 10,000 watts (peak) and 70.7 volts times 70.7 amps is 5,000 watts (RMS). This is why amps typically rate their peak power at twice their RMS power. Regardless of what the SMD is supposed to do, this is what it's doing. Add in the power factor and bam, over twice the measurement of the BHG.
I saw the bass head garage product on Parker's video and decided to get it because like you said it $89!!!! Not $400or$500 the SMD is which I can't justify spending that much money when bass head garage one is pretty close. I just got mine in the mail yesterday Jul 18 2024 which is the updated version and $89 is affordable for me which I'm going to check it out tomorrow to see what my amplifier is pushing. This is the first time for me ever seeing a video of yours and I subscribed to your channel because you're doing legit Comparison side by side so there's no chance of messing with the numbers. Thank you for doing this video because I want to know if the bass head accurate and by how much. Thank you again and I can't wait to see the next video that's coming out, plus I've got passed videos to watch to get caught up. Thanks
I just saw my amp so I clicked on the video and it was a surprise to recognize the subs and paws kid. I'm loving the content and the conversation. Keep it up.subscriber #91
My AMM-1 ties out to my readings with an OScope also keep in mind that your amplifiers will 100% show more output at and above clipping... Add an O Scope to your set up and you will see
I wonder if the outcome on each meter would be different if the SMD shared power with the amplifiers (instead of using the 9 volt battery) and if the BHG had its own 12 volt power supply? Or maybe the SMD somehow measured wattage through higher distortion instead of going up to 1%?
@BassUp- I just subscribed to your channel, coming over from Subs&Paws ch. You did a great job 🎉talking about the different modes. If there is ever a doubt about an amplifiers Power Output, using the Big Amperage Clamp meter, around the Power Inputs, won't lie. Power in= Power out! Example: If 200 Amp's were pulled x 14 volts x 70% amp eff. (for my example)= 1,960 watts But for quick/ball park power #s, you can just add a zero to the amerage being pulled, to get an idea.
What i got from calc: Bhg VA=1847VA,PF=0.94 W = 1847
VA × 0.94 = 1735.18W W=1847VA×0.94=1735.18W SMD : VA=1801VA,PF=1.00 W = 1801
VA × 1.00 = 1801W W=1801VA×1.00=1801W Voltmeter and clamp : V=14.02V,I=159.7A W = V × I W=V×IW = 14.02
V × 159.7
A = 2239.594W W=14.02V×159.7A=2239.594W Your second test there SMD shows 3679W, Your voltmeter and clamp shows 14.11v and 157A = 2215.27W, but it can be wrong aswell. Would be fun if someone had a clampmeter that is calibrated and test and see if its match up or be near some of the watt meters.
Most people just use dummy loads, so the PF is 1 or very close to it. Otherwise, you need a scope with a current probe. Chris's workbench has a great video on performing the calculations.
I was looking at the AMM-1 user manual and they actually list it's induction loop at 100 amps. Its max power reading is 15,000 watts. That is equal to the early model BHG meters. It also has a 100A loop and 15,000 watt rating. The newer version has the bigger 150A loop and a 20,000 watt rating. So I see absolutely no reason to try and upgrade the induction loop on your meter. 100A is more than big enough. Also, I don't know if you can just swap it out. There my be a calibration in the meter for the particular loop size it came with.
Someone did say that there may be calibration if there is a new one. This one should be more than enough, just doesn’t seem to catch dynamic bursts. Thank you for your comment!
@@bassup-audio I’m in contact with bass head garage because they have great bass knobs but I’ll have to check the watt meter out because this is very interesting stuff
If anyone thinks they're buying a tool that's worth 450$ let em. It's a calculator designed to do exactly what its doing IMO. O-scope, and a calculator cant lie and neither does REW. Also agrees with the exact apparent power modeled for the enclosure on that power level to the subs. Doing it the hard way shows that the BHG is both more consistently correct and way more in line with the costs involved in such a tool. Edit: I'm only concerned with the numbers to know I'm playing within my equipment's limits, dynamic numbers are not rly important.
I think they just wanted to upgrade it. I also have an early unit with the 100A induction loop. It's rated to measure up to 15,000 watts. The newer units have a 150A induction loop and are rated up to 20,000 watts. So it's a nice little bump up in power reading.
Seen a video by 956bassaddict testing a big boss 3k amd AMD meter said it was putting out over 8422 then 8424 or something them 9420 watta a .5ohm smh Face kicker had the same amp do a more truthful 4500 at .5 a few months ago with the big dyno.
16:00 When the AMM-1 is showing 3600 watts you can see the amp draw and voltage going into the amplifier. 156A x 14 volts is 2184 watts going into the amp. So its impossible that you have more power coming out than is going in. 3600 is way off. 1700 is exactly what you would expect with an amp efficiency of around 83% and a power factor of 0.94 It's really strange. The AMM-1 read accurately in it's VA and Power Factor mode, but read twice as high in it's (I think) Real Time Power mode. Thats bizarre behavior.
If you get a 2ch oscilloscope you can have V and A at the terminals. The SMD reading 4k with the clamp reading 155A is definitely not right, jnless that amp is 200% efficient, in that case I'll take 2 😂
My guy the SMD unit DOES NOT like brazilian amps. It never has. Full bridge amps send a constant signal through the speakers and the rcas. Use a Korean amp you will get the same reading probably
Steve Meade just proved the AMM-1 is more accurate. He ran it side by side with his 3000 dollar AD-1 dyno. Y’all are testing these wrong to begin with by using music. You should be using a tone generator.The AMM-1 also has many more options for testing. I guarantee I’ll trust a real engineer like D’Amore engineer over a Chinese made product any day of the week. The AMM-1 is absolutely not wrong! You have to make sure you are using the meter correctly, I’ve been in car Audio for over 30 years and I’ll continue to trust my AMM-1 Learn how to actually use it, Steve Meade has many videos about its proper use and just proved you guys are using it absolutely wrong and that the AMM-1 shows real time power on a B2 Audio amp.
@@bassup-audio Go to Steve Meade channel and watch his video that he just did on it showing the tests run side by side. He’s running g multiple meters on it and running his tone generator on it as well.
@P-J-W-777 exactly! Say it for all the people who wanna run their mouth about the AMM-1. Who am I gonna trust, Steve who’s well established in the bass head game and makes quality products or some newbie who just started a TH-cam channel?!
@@jRomero713 👍🏻 You know it! The true car audio shops, amp manufacturers and a few other TH-camrs that have and trust the AMM-1 and AD-1 know the truth and what they trust and Audio guys like us that have been in the game for a long time know as well. Guarantee if they were to break out an actual Fluke Multimeter and Clamp along with an Oscilloscope they’d see which was right. Wait they’d have to use all of them properly first. Even with my 30 years of Car Audio experience I still refer to guys like Steve Meade (Champion Competitor) and other old school bass heads for lots of stuff. As well as the Electronic Engineers such as D’Amore Engineering who have their designed and built their own line of very high quality Amplifiers.
I have to agree with you. When I first started testing amps my numbers were all screwy until I started using to correct SMD test tones. Also the ad-1/amm-1 is what almost every amplifier company uses to test their amps.
What glazes in my head is that if the meter cant read half bridge Amps right, how many of the subs and paws videos that were made using half bridge amps to test subs are either correct or incorrect. Lets justify this
I think it's safe to say until this controversy came up Everyone thought the the device was on point and it has nothing to do with subspawz and they don't have to justify anything you need to be asking the manufacturer to justify it
Exactly what are you measuring? Peak or rms? And check that signal out cause on full bridge amps a lil clip jumps watts like that again emf audio shows n tells to teach this also smfh
I told ya that smd is fked up lmao n u seriously doubted me lmao. Get a damn term lab if there ends up still unknown results and dude power factor smfh power factor is for shit like led power supplies and describes their effacy being how much is produced after conversion compared to what is drawn like from the fkn wall lmao emf audio explains the smd krap pretty simply and correctly
I wouldn't waste my money on the smd. It probably only costs $20 each to have them made in china and he wants $500 for one. I'm glad bass head garage came out with a cheap accurate one.
They are actually made by hand
@@Cwilltheking Ok sorry, made by hand in china. Is that better
Grumpy Leprechaun has bills & baby 👶 momma 💰 🤑 💸 B.H.G. is in Russia or near Russia, they want to make a lil money 💰 & be happy 😊 SMD... well I think 🤔 he is a lil specialer 🎉
@@fusion82 Lmao :)
They aren’t made in China. They are hand made by D’Amore Engineering.
SMD is a cry baby. I used to respect him but he gets so mad when you ask him a question regarding his products instead of being professional he just goes on to insult you 😂
Yep! I had that exact same situation with him when I asked a question about a product..A legit respectful question? Told me do u know who I am like if he was the audio god of all audio or something..Was like WTF is this guy's problem
He's a cocky little toad.
@@JohnWalsh2019 yep!
He does... Some said I use Anker batteries.. Steve replied.. don't use generic stuff. Lol Anker is HUGE. They make batteries for name brands.
Electrical engineer here. I think what's happening is the SMD is reading power as peak-to-peak while the BHG is measuring RMS.
Whenever making a power measurement of a sine wave, the common way multimeters do it is to find the peak voltage and multiply it by 0.707. so, for 100 volts, that's 70.7 volts. They do the same with the amps, so 100 amps is 70.7 amps. 100 volts times 100 amps is 10,000 watts (peak) and 70.7 volts times 70.7 amps is 5,000 watts (RMS). This is why amps typically rate their peak power at twice their RMS power. Regardless of what the SMD is supposed to do, this is what it's doing. Add in the power factor and bam, over twice the measurement of the BHG.
I saw the bass head garage product on Parker's video and decided to get it because like you said it $89!!!! Not $400or$500 the SMD is which I can't justify spending that much money when bass head garage one is pretty close. I just got mine in the mail yesterday Jul 18 2024 which is the updated version and $89 is affordable for me which I'm going to check it out tomorrow to see what my amplifier is pushing. This is the first time for me ever seeing a video of yours and I subscribed to your channel because you're doing legit Comparison side by side so there's no chance of messing with the numbers. Thank you for doing this video because I want to know if the bass head accurate and by how much. Thank you again and I can't wait to see the next video that's coming out, plus I've got passed videos to watch to get caught up. Thanks
I just saw my amp so I clicked on the video and it was a surprise to recognize the subs and paws kid. I'm loving the content and the conversation. Keep it up.subscriber #91
You earned my subscription. Keep posting man. I like the video its fair
Thank you for the sub!! Means a lot!!
@@bassup-audio Me too. IF anyone looks up the definition of "meter" it's simply a "metric".. a scale.
Heavy vs. Less Heavy
It would be wild if they made an affordable spl meter that was accurate
The nerve Steve Meade has charging a ridiculous price for his products tells me I’ll never buy anything of his.
Hes a punk
My AMM-1 ties out to my readings with an OScope also keep in mind that your amplifiers will 100% show more output at and above clipping... Add an O Scope to your set up and you will see
Much more time spent at peak voltage while clipping
Does your o-scope show 200% efficiency too? 😂
Now we need someone with the big AD-1 to compare all 3 together.
I would love to see this!
It is coming soon. Amp Dynos channel has all the tools to test. I sent my BHG to him for this same purpose.
Steve Meade just did a real time test against the AD-1 utilizing a B2 Audio amp. The AD-1cis used and trusted by many Amp manufacturers.
Great video kid. Keep up the good work
Thanks for the comment, stay tuned for more uploads
People are shitty..why make a 100$ profit when ya can make 350$ profit😂
U know bro was passing hood math class for sure 💯
Have you reached out to the guys at D'Amore Engineering?
I have not, thinking about doing this
@@bassup-audio you should talk to steve...
I wonder if the outcome on each meter would be different if the SMD shared power with the amplifiers (instead of using the 9 volt battery) and if the BHG had its own 12 volt power supply? Or maybe the SMD somehow measured wattage through higher distortion instead of going up to 1%?
Caleb got his own show 👍😎 Love the tech talk. Don't tell John 🤫 lol
Haha! Thank you for the comment Joe
@BassUp- I just subscribed to your channel, coming over from Subs&Paws ch. You did a great job 🎉talking about the different modes. If there is ever a doubt about an amplifiers Power Output, using the Big Amperage Clamp meter, around the Power Inputs, won't lie. Power in= Power out! Example: If 200 Amp's were pulled x 14 volts x 70% amp eff. (for my example)= 1,960 watts But for quick/ball park power #s, you can just add a zero to the amerage being pulled, to get an idea.
What i got from calc: Bhg VA=1847VA,PF=0.94
W
=
1847
VA
×
0.94
=
1735.18W
W=1847VA×0.94=1735.18W
SMD : VA=1801VA,PF=1.00
W
=
1801
VA
×
1.00
=
1801W
W=1801VA×1.00=1801W
Voltmeter and clamp : V=14.02V,I=159.7A
W
=
V
×
I
W=V×IW
=
14.02
V
×
159.7
A
=
2239.594W
W=14.02V×159.7A=2239.594W
Your second test there SMD shows 3679W, Your voltmeter and clamp shows 14.11v and 157A = 2215.27W, but it can be wrong aswell.
Would be fun if someone had a clampmeter that is calibrated and test and see if its match up or be near some of the watt meters.
If they're both reading correct why spend four times the amount
Valid point
Most people just use dummy loads, so the PF is 1 or very close to it. Otherwise, you need a scope with a current probe. Chris's workbench has a great video on performing the calculations.
I was looking at the AMM-1 user manual and they actually list it's induction loop at 100 amps. Its max power reading is 15,000 watts.
That is equal to the early model BHG meters. It also has a 100A loop and 15,000 watt rating.
The newer version has the bigger 150A loop and a 20,000 watt rating.
So I see absolutely no reason to try and upgrade the induction loop on your meter. 100A is more than big enough.
Also, I don't know if you can just swap it out. There my be a calibration in the meter for the particular loop size it came with.
Someone did say that there may be calibration if there is a new one. This one should be more than enough, just doesn’t seem to catch dynamic bursts. Thank you for your comment!
Ay bro great stuff I’ve been watchin yall for a while
Appreciate you bro!
@@bassup-audio I’m in contact with bass head garage because they have great bass knobs but I’ll have to check the watt meter out because this is very interesting stuff
Hell yeah, ask em some questions bro
@@bassup-audio how you liking your timpano subs I’ve got some some tpt 2500s
Dude these 3500 are ridiculous, hit my new score 148.1 db and started floating stuff, they SLAM
If anyone thinks they're buying a tool that's worth 450$ let em. It's a calculator designed to do exactly what its doing IMO. O-scope, and a calculator cant lie and neither does REW. Also agrees with the exact apparent power modeled for the enclosure on that power level to the subs. Doing it the hard way shows that the BHG is both more consistently correct and way more in line with the costs involved in such a tool.
Edit: I'm only concerned with the numbers to know I'm playing within my equipment's limits, dynamic numbers are not rly important.
Somewhere I seen that the bare AMM1, with all its components but without casing and probes costs no more than $20 per unit.. haha
I got the first badge of Bass Head Garage Meter and for some reason they updated the little clamp it came with .
I think they just wanted to upgrade it. I also have an early unit with the 100A induction loop. It's rated to measure up to 15,000 watts.
The newer units have a 150A induction loop and are rated up to 20,000 watts.
So it's a nice little bump up in power reading.
Correct, thank you for your comment!
They may have also wanted it capable of measuring higher power levels than the AMM-1 (rated for 15,000w). To one up it! Lol
Im pretty sure it was discussex already. The smd does not like Brazilian full bridge amps. Hence your findings are all over the place
Without further ado
Not bad little bruh. I think they're correct too.
Heck yeah 👏🏻
Great video
Thanks! Stay tuned for more upcoming videos!
Seen a video by 956bassaddict testing a big boss 3k amd AMD meter said it was putting out over 8422 then 8424 or something them 9420 watta a
.5ohm smh Face kicker had the same amp do a more truthful 4500 at .5 a few months ago with the big dyno.
It is able to do this as Dynamic Power
16:00 When the AMM-1 is showing 3600 watts you can see the amp draw and voltage going into the amplifier. 156A x 14 volts is 2184 watts going into the amp. So its impossible that you have more power coming out than is going in. 3600 is way off.
1700 is exactly what you would expect with an amp efficiency of around 83% and a power factor of 0.94
It's really strange. The AMM-1 read accurately in it's VA and Power Factor mode, but read twice as high in it's (I think) Real Time Power mode. Thats bizarre behavior.
Maybe all testing with the AMM-1 should be done in VA Power Factor mode?
Right. That’s what I’m saying because then you just take your VA and multiply that by Power Factor and that’s your watts
@@bassup-audioI was saying to use this mode because it doesn't do that giant, nonsensical jump in power. It was behaving nicely.
very odd indeed
SMD IS 🦮💩, it always underates amplifiers 35%!!
Still waiting on mine from pre-order from almost 2 months ago 🤷♂️
It does take a little bit
My question, is one doing RMS power and the other doing Max Power.
8:05 it’s volts x Amps x root2 (which is the rms in watts RMS)
If you get a 2ch oscilloscope you can have V and A at the terminals. The SMD reading 4k with the clamp reading 155A is definitely not right, jnless that amp is 200% efficient, in that case I'll take 2 😂
You can't just buy a bigger amp transformer and use it it has to be programmed for it.
Thank you for your comment, I wasn’t aware of this
you get what you pay for...the AMM-1 is a better meter, period!
My guy the SMD unit DOES NOT like brazilian amps. It never has. Full bridge amps send a constant signal through the speakers and the rcas. Use a Korean amp you will get the same reading probably
Seems true, my Korean amp reads a TON closer to each meter when played
Smd is close to the rating kicker gets with their test gear.
Use a electrical meter that can meter current (amperage) . Watch your voltage at same time. Absolute true wattage. Watts = voltage×current.
Buy a good multimeter for half the cost of anything SMD. All SMD IS OVERPRICED
10:35 Volts x Amps is not watts it is however VA (VoltAmps)
SM is the only one who thumb down this video. heheh
I have a amm-1 I’ll grab a BHG meter and compare 😂
That’s what I’ve been up to 😂
Steve Meade just proved the AMM-1 is more accurate. He ran it side by side with his 3000 dollar AD-1 dyno. Y’all are testing these wrong to begin with by using music. You should be using a tone generator.The AMM-1 also has many more options for testing. I guarantee I’ll trust a real engineer like D’Amore engineer over a Chinese made product any day of the week.
The AMM-1 is absolutely not wrong! You have to make sure you are using the meter correctly, I’ve been in car Audio for over 30 years and I’ll continue to trust my AMM-1
Learn how to actually use it, Steve Meade has many videos about its proper use and just proved you guys are using it absolutely wrong and that the AMM-1 shows real time power on a B2 Audio amp.
I just want to get an answer why the BHG seems to not read dynamic hurts like the AMM-1 does
@@bassup-audio Go to Steve Meade channel and watch his video that he just did on it showing the tests run side by side. He’s running g multiple meters on it and running his tone generator on it as well.
@P-J-W-777 exactly! Say it for all the people who wanna run their mouth about the AMM-1. Who am I gonna trust, Steve who’s well established in the bass head game and makes quality products or some newbie who just started a TH-cam channel?!
@@jRomero713 👍🏻 You know it! The true car audio shops, amp manufacturers and a few other TH-camrs that have and trust the AMM-1 and AD-1 know the truth and what they trust and Audio guys like us that have been in the game for a long time know as well. Guarantee if they were to break out an actual Fluke Multimeter and Clamp along with an Oscilloscope they’d see which was right. Wait they’d have to use all of them properly first. Even with my 30 years of Car Audio experience I still refer to guys like Steve Meade (Champion Competitor) and other old school bass heads for lots of stuff. As well as the Electronic Engineers such as D’Amore Engineering who have their designed and built their own line of very high quality Amplifiers.
I have to agree with you. When I first started testing amps my numbers were all screwy until I started using to correct SMD test tones. Also the ad-1/amm-1 is what almost every amplifier company uses to test their amps.
What glazes in my head is that if the meter cant read half bridge Amps right, how many of the subs and paws videos that were made using half bridge amps to test subs are either correct or incorrect. Lets justify this
I think it's safe to say until this controversy came up Everyone thought the the device was on point and it has nothing to do with subspawz and they don't have to justify anything you need to be asking the manufacturer to justify it
Bout time the people who have a grip on this car audio game are steadily ripping off people
damn the AMM-1 is way off!
Stetsom😂 does fake numbers.....
Shouldn't that shitty SMD bs need to be recalibrated every once in awhile to be accurate..
tell me something I dont know,sell me something I cant use
the SMD is 💩🦮💩, it always reads 30% - 40% to low!! it underates amplifiers!
Exactly what are you measuring? Peak or rms? And check that signal out cause on full bridge amps a lil clip jumps watts like that again emf audio shows n tells to teach this also smfh
I told ya that smd is fked up lmao n u seriously doubted me lmao. Get a damn term lab if there ends up still unknown results and dude power factor smfh power factor is for shit like led power supplies and describes their effacy being how much is produced after conversion compared to what is drawn like from the fkn wall lmao emf audio explains the smd krap pretty simply and correctly