We had this done on one of our properties once cured can you grind down that grey paste or samd down flush with concrete to paint the concrete for smooth finish, we want a cleaner look on exterior as to not draw away potential buyers, can you use a chisel to get rid of the excess paste or sand down?
How come you lift the paint on the crack for this demonstration. I thought it was supposed to be removed in order for the epoxy dam to adhere. How do you keep the epoxy from oozing out on the outside of the wall?
Based on my research, expoxy is super strong, but should only be used if the crack is dry. Polyurethane is used if water is present in the crack, or you can put a 70 pint dehumidifier, set at 45%RH, and run it for 3 or 4 days, to see if you can dry out the space. But, in general, expoxy for dry cracks, poly foam adhesive for wet cracks.
FWIW, I called this company today, and they recommended their HydroStop product for my vertical wall hairline cracks, and a sump pump due to floor crack intrusiin/seepage. As a novice, I appreciated their honesty. And, I've spent 3 hours reading up on sump pumps, and he's right.
@@joeprager9961 I just completed 2 7ft cracks in my basement wall. I used the HydroStop-300 which worked fine. One crack was very thin all the way up. Had plenty of the sealant. The other crack had spots with 1/8". I completed but I wish I had a little more sealant. I bought one kit from Applied Technologies with free shipping. The second I had to get from Amazon for free shipping.
the video says very clearly at the end that they can be removed and the surface patch can be ground away after the injection cures. tap the ports with a hammer and they should just pop right out.
no, tuck-pointing fixes cracks in brick, block and stone walls. this is for concrete only. in order to use this on a brick or block wall you would need about 10 times as much as normal because bricks and blocks have cavities in them where this stuff will just pool and go to waste. an $8 bag of mortar is quite a bit better than several of these kits at $150+ each.
Will this product and procedure be the same and with same effectiveness for filling/sealing foundation cracks on concrete slab? Is this sealer waterproof or is that another video?
If you are doing a slab such as a basement floor, or a slab that has sand or gravel under it, this repair will not work because the epoxy will leak out of the crack and into the underlying substrate.
When you (they) speak of repairing cracks at Temperatures of 40 degrees or above. Do you mean indoor temp or outdoor temp ? I am hoping to receive a response in a timely manner,
Yes it does, this product or similar product was shown on the DIY Channel TV Show ( Holmes helps Holmes ) during The Christmas-New Year Holiday of 2018.
NO. DO NOT USE THIS ON A CINDERBLOCK OR BRICK WALL. tuck-pointing is how you fix cracks and leaks in brick/block construction, this product is made specifically for concrete. cinderblock and brick both have cavities that will eat up about 50 times as much of this product as should be required to do the job. yes the manufacturer says it will work on brick and block, and it will in theory but an $8 bag of mortar is way better than several $150 10 foot kits. by the way, i am a mason with over 25 years experience, not your average do it yourselfer that thinks they know everything after a single 2 hour weekend project.
From other vids, poly is just foam so it does the job but doesn't add strength. Epoxy on the other hand is stronger than the concrete and can be coupled with carbon strips leaving it stronger than before.
If you don't make large enough hole to epoxy liquid to go in, then it will not work. It cost me $4000 to hire contractor to fix the crack from outside, because I did not create the hole at all, when I tried with Crack Repair Kit, the liquid did not go in or did not go enough.
@@micheal74rich Thanks for the reply. I've now realized that I need to decide b/w poly or epoxy. I wonder if what you needed was poly since it's meant for non structural cracks, aka small cracks. Personally, I think you could have bought a long drill bit and still tried the epoxy fix. I'm assuming you never made it to the 2nd hole?
Well I'm ordering the 530$ kit I have a small crack on my foundation wall amd the rest I'll use it at customers homes to make up this purchase I'm making Following this video instructions looks pretty simple
Love this solution. No drilling into the foundation required!
We had this done on one of our properties once cured can you grind down that grey paste or samd down flush with concrete to paint the concrete for smooth finish, we want a cleaner look on exterior as to not draw away potential buyers, can you use a chisel to get rid of the excess paste or sand down?
How come you lift the paint on the crack for this demonstration. I thought it was supposed to be removed in order for the epoxy dam to adhere. How do you keep the epoxy from oozing out on the outside of the wall?
Hey brother how long did it take you to do that repair.
Thank you, nice Content my friend.
What if the cement inside the crack is damp? Use Epoxy or Polyurethane?
Based on my research, expoxy is super strong, but should only be used if the crack is dry. Polyurethane is used if water is present in the crack, or you can put a 70 pint dehumidifier, set at 45%RH, and run it for 3 or 4 days, to see if you can dry out the space.
But, in general, expoxy for dry cracks, poly foam adhesive for wet cracks.
@@joeprager9961 thank you
FWIW, I called this company today, and they recommended their HydroStop product for my vertical wall hairline cracks, and a sump pump due to floor crack intrusiin/seepage. As a novice, I appreciated their honesty.
And, I've spent 3 hours reading up on sump pumps, and he's right.
@@joeprager9961 I just completed 2 7ft cracks in my basement wall. I used the HydroStop-300 which worked fine. One crack was very thin all the way up. Had plenty of the sealant. The other crack had spots with 1/8". I completed but I wish I had a little more sealant. I bought one kit from Applied Technologies with free shipping. The second I had to get from Amazon for free shipping.
What if the crack shows on both sides of the foundation wall
Do you completely seal one side and use ports on the other side?
That is correct. You will need extra Poxy Paste for that.
@@aaronkuertz6012 where can I purchase these products
@@aaronkuertz6012 I actually seen the link on this video I will be calling tomorrow
Can the excess epoxy be sanded to make a better smooth finish?
he says it can in the video.
Looks like you can buy a peel off version for $20 more.
@@LuisLarreaJr”Peel Off” version?
@@sophiacromwell8017 I've since forgotten what I was talking about.
So much for removing the paint!!
Thanks Dude! We owe you a beer!!
We should start this epoxy injection from bottom to top or from top to bottom...?
Bottom to top. Allowing the bottom of the crack to fill first and work your way up.
it amazes me how many people cant even follow a simple 5 minute video these days.
Did you watch the entire video?
@@Smokey420Greenleaf Yeah, I'm going to watch 60 seconds of the video and then ask all the questions answered in the video. :-)
Sometimes people just want to “double check” what they saw vs what they WANT to do… no need to be so harsh!! ;)
is it recommended to keep the epoxy and ports on the wall after the repair? I would like to paint the wall after this is done.
Also wondering best way to remove the ports
@@jake024d applied Tech says you can cut or chisel them off. I would use a cutting wheel and cut off as close to the wall possible.
the video says very clearly at the end that they can be removed and the surface patch can be ground away after the injection cures. tap the ports with a hammer and they should just pop right out.
Where do you get it?
What about inside corners?
They make special ports. You can buy them extra on their website. Rather inexpensive.
So you need to drill holes and fill both sides of the wall?
No.
Question is, what if the crack is in a corner?
The kit includes inside corner ports designed for that
Brick wall can use this technique?
no, tuck-pointing fixes cracks in brick, block and stone walls. this is for concrete only. in order to use this on a brick or block wall you would need about 10 times as much as normal because bricks and blocks have cavities in them where this stuff will just pool and go to waste. an $8 bag of mortar is quite a bit better than several of these kits at $150+ each.
Will this product and procedure be the same and with same effectiveness for filling/sealing foundation cracks on concrete slab? Is this sealer waterproof or is that another video?
If you are doing a slab such as a basement floor, or a slab that has sand or gravel under it, this repair will not work because the epoxy will leak out of the crack and into the underlying substrate.
When you (they) speak of repairing cracks at Temperatures of 40 degrees or above. Do you mean indoor temp or outdoor temp ? I am hoping to receive a response in a timely manner,
Outdoor
Took a year to respond, hopefully that was timely enough.@@jestevez
how far does one kit go? how long of a crack will it fill? floor to ceiling?
these kits generally come in increments of 10 feet, so far 60 feet is the biggest kit I've seen but i haven't been looking long.
would this work for a cinder block wall?
Yes it does, this product or similar product was shown on the DIY Channel TV Show ( Holmes helps Holmes ) during The Christmas-New Year Holiday of 2018.
NO. DO NOT USE THIS ON A CINDERBLOCK OR BRICK WALL. tuck-pointing is how you fix cracks and leaks in brick/block construction, this product is made specifically for concrete. cinderblock and brick both have cavities that will eat up about 50 times as much of this product as should be required to do the job. yes the manufacturer says it will work on brick and block, and it will in theory but an $8 bag of mortar is way better than several $150 10 foot kits. by the way, i am a mason with over 25 years experience, not your average do it yourselfer that thinks they know everything after a single 2 hour weekend project.
dear, since you are a real pro I need to ask you- would this product be good for my galvanized iron water pipe leak. @@Smokey420Greenleaf
what difference pu injection and epoxy injection
From other vids, poly is just foam so it does the job but doesn't add strength. Epoxy on the other hand is stronger than the concrete and can be coupled with carbon strips leaving it stronger than before.
where can i buy this kit ??
You can buy it here.
www.appliedtechnologies.com/home/30_epoxy_foundation_crack_repair_kit.html
You can also purchase from Amazon, like I did.
Lots of material for some small crack
If you don't make large enough hole to epoxy liquid to go in, then it will not work.
It cost me $4000 to hire contractor to fix the crack from outside, because I did not create the hole at all, when I tried with Crack Repair Kit, the liquid did not go in or did not go enough.
lol i always feel sick when i see people saying they spent that much money on such a small repair. i just tuck-pointed an entire basement for $1400
Should have watched other videos. You can pour water into the holes, top to bottom and if you see water, then it should do the job.
@@LuisLarreaJr I followed one of this video but the fellow in the video misguided me, which cost me 4k.
@@micheal74rich Thanks for the reply. I've now realized that I need to decide b/w poly or epoxy. I wonder if what you needed was poly since it's meant for non structural cracks, aka small cracks.
Personally, I think you could have bought a long drill bit and still tried the epoxy fix. I'm assuming you never made it to the 2nd hole?
Well I'm ordering the 530$ kit I have a small crack on my foundation wall amd the rest I'll use it at customers homes to make up this purchase I'm making
Following this video instructions looks pretty simple
did he know what and how epoxy works???
yes
did he know what and how epoxy works???
yes