F100 Crown Vic Swap II
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มิ.ย. 2020
- To see Part 1 Video: • F100 Crown Vic Front E...
Part 2 of the 1969 F100 Crown Vic front end swap. I go through all the final details of the swap, like installing power brakes, plumbing the brake lines to the crown vic disc brakes, connecting the steering column to the crown vic power steering rack, and mounting the sway bar
Power brake booster:
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....
Pirate Jack Brake booster bracket:
piratejack.net/ft5772bpr-1957...
Borgeson (313449) 3/4 36 spline to 3/4 DD adapter:
www.summitracing.com/parts/br...
JEGS U-Joint 3/4 in. DD x 3/4 in. DD:
www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60701...
24" universal DD steering shaft:
amzn.to/37S1zc2
Ford Mustang Triangle X 3/4" DD Universal Joint (CV rack to DD shaft):
www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang...
3/8 - 24 Flare nuts for 3/16 hard brake line:
amzn.to/2Bp8Y6k
3/8 -24 flare union for connecting 3/16 hard brake lines:
amzn.to/2YkOd4L
3/16 PVF universal brake line 54":
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I've finally accepted that a project like this is way beyond my skills, tools, patience, knowledge, ambition, money, and desire.
You are customizing like a true pro, you have a great eye for detail and making it work. Happy to see you back in action!
Glad to see you're back and healthy with all that's going on in the world. Hope everything is going good with you and family.
Dang man I was wondering what happened to this build. Glad you're back on this project.
Thank you for showing all the troubles you had and not making it look easy... I hope you and your family are well! Glad to have you back.
Nice to see you back
Good instructions. This will help lots of guys out Thanks for sharing.👍👍
Glad to see you back
Nice to see ya back bud
Sweet. Been waiting for this one!!!
I’m in the Uk and just bought a 72 step side the same color as yours , finding your channel has given me a great start for ideas once it lands in the UK. Loving the way you describe everything you do .
Keep it up 👍🏻
nice! glad to hear these videos are helping you guys out, even if it just gives you some motivation! Thank for the comments!
Welcome back
It's been a long time. Keep up the good work on your '69 F100.
Prayers answered glad to see you're okay that was kind of word with that covid-19 going on God bless
The brake junction you show is a balance switch. If you lose either circuit the pressure imbalance moves the pin inside to the lower pressure side. The pins has a cutdown center and when it moves to either side the switch contacts and warning light circuit has ground for its bulb. I have had to center the pin many times once repairs were complete. You depress pedal firmly and crack a line on the side that was ok and the opposite pressure drop let’s pin slide back. Sometimes you have to do one side and then the other until you get it centered and light off. Removing it cures the problem but the brake warning valve police won’t like it.
It is also there to keep you from getting killed when a line fails. Never remove these parts.
Great video!
Always awesome to see Summit like and comment on my videos!! Thanks!
Glad to see this moving forward again !!!!
haha me too! Thanks!
330_Garage your content is great, I like what you’re doing... I’ve got an f100 staked out... hoping to CV & 8.8 swap it... what’s up with your rear wheel backspacing issue? Have you figured out which wheel & BS?
@@scottharvey3054 rear wheel back spacing is just temporarily resolved with some cheap Ebay 2 inch spacers for those CV wheels. I think some aftermarket wheels will resolve the need for such a huge spacer. I'll be sure to do a video as I work through that
330_Garage thanks for the reply !
That's a nice job !!! 😃😃😃 GREAT VIDEO. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
This is what I like to see!
Welcome back.
Very helpful videos thanks
I used the same exact frame slot to mount the brake line on my f100/vic IFS swap!
Did you have problems turning lock to lock? My 65 looks like I need perches to move the rubber lines out towards the wheel a little
@@crash67532 so, the 65 is different than the bumpside, but on my 67, i go lock to lock with no problem.
Good job, no fear!
That fab work on the break system is jank guaranteed to ether cause you problems or end up rapping that nice truck around pine tree
do you have the lottery numbers for this week too while we're gazing into the crystal ball? ... weird not a single problem yet
Good work so far! I'm at a similar stage. You really need an actual proportioning valve for disc/ disc brakes
Correct! I added one in the rear. I have another video I am working on posting, where I put a 4 link in the truck, and installed one when I did all that.
Good Job✅
If you went with a 3rd ujoint you would have to put in a support bearing. Had to do this a few times building hot rods. Also, you really want to do the steering linkage when you have the motor in its final resting place with the headers bolted on.
Thanks for explaining what the steering wheel is for, lol. I had pretty much given up on you and this project. Hope ya post more often in the future.
Thanks! i'm trying to get back to it, and keep a schedule going! Its awesome to hear the support from everyone!
It was nice to see you again glad to have you back,nice job on the brake lines, one thing on the steering column it may be on the way for you headers maybe. Thanks for the video
I used the swivel adapted right at the tail of the steering wheel shaft and used the coupler between the original crown vic extending lower shaft and DD to steering wheel
The brake booster IS for your truck. It just didn't come with the clevis to attach to your pedal. The only difference between a power and non power brake truck is the location that the clevis attached to the pedal so that your pedal ratio is sufficient to allow the leverage needed to depress non-power brakes. If you didn't measure from the pivot to the pedal to ensure that you have a correct pedal ratio, you may be leaving lots of braking performance on the table.. Also, the front bale of the master is the rear brakes, rear bale is the front brakes..
That rubber boot coming out the back of the brake booster should go into the firewall hole.
It’s coming along.
Yellow zinc is the plating on the brake booster. Silver color is called clear zinc
Question for you, how low does the crown vic crossmember hang? Past the frame?
That booster bracket looks like the old body Bronco bracket that had the M/C mounted at an angle.
I'd think that I would add a slip joint to the steering shaft so it would be safer if it's ever involved in a crash. Just cut the DD shaft down and insert in into a DD tube attached to the steering box. You could leave maybe a 6 in. gap in the tube.
MP Brakes has the Power master cylinder setup and it's a bolt in NO rigging whatsoever
Have a link to that...
I notice you didnt put in a slip joint in the steering shaft, fyi a friend of mine did the same thing and the cab/chassis flex caused his “jam nut/set screw” joint at the column to walk loose and come off going down the road and had also messed up the end of the column. Luckily damage was minimal but we made a slip joint shaft for it and have seen as much as 3/4 to 1” of movement in it since. Enjoy the vids
Interesting. I see a lot of guys building steering columns with no slip joint in old hot rods and stuff.. . but not many guys talk about the problems they may be having after a few thousand miles. That seems like a valid point, I will keep in mind. Thanks!
@@330_garage3 its a company on the F100 FB groups that sells the kit with both u joints, DD sleeve & DD shaft with anti rattle spring and is very well priced. Plus in the event of a severe front impact the frame can move up to 6” before shoving the shaft into your face....that was more my concern since all OEM including the CV has “collapsable” shafts. Good luck on the build i enjoy watching
What about the headers position to the steering connection to crown Victoria connection?
Hey man, what did you do for the rear brake light sensor on the proportioning valve?
question for you . will that brake setup work with my cv front and stock drums in the back ?
Question. I'm building my 64 at the moment. I'm about to install CV front end. I pulled out my old steering column, I'm interested in which one you are running? Thanks
What steering wheel adaptor are you using for the NRG HUB
What kind of power steering pump did you use and did you have complications.
i think a full frame swap gets you the best bang for your buck(power steering, power disc brakes, A/C, etc) but i like the idea of keeping the i beam under the f100. does anyone know how a front end swap alone compares regarding handling to a full frame swap? thanks
I have a question. what motor mount can i use for a 300 inline
Long time no see
How does your brakes works? Am having problems with my not stopping. I even put a one inch mastercylinder
Awsome build, where did you get ur dash completed/purchased at?
Amazing videos man! Thanks so much. Do you know if the crown Vic can handle big block Fords ? 460 the mounts. And how are you setting up steering?
Yes, probably better than a small block. After putting a small block in mine, the springs are super stiff, and need some more weight on them. I'm probably going to have to get coil overs to get it to not ride like a wagon.
For mounts I would check out OutcastAutoWorks. He makes really nice stuff that will allow that 460 to sit right in place. Heres a link:
www.outcastautoworks.com/collections/ford-f-series-crown-vic-swap-motor-mounts/products/pre-order-f100-crown-vic-swap-big-block-429-460-polyurethane-motor-mounts
I'm running an LS, so I plan to just merge the power steering lines together from my GM pump to the crown vic rack.
How to fix brake pedal go to low?
What year model crown victoria front end
Awesome! Not many people on TH-cam have done or shown how to diy crown Vic coilovers. I’m thinking about doing what you do and was interested in knowing what coilovers you used. Btw what spring rate did you use?
What motor mounts did you use?
Hey man, good work. I was wondering what carb you are running. I know it’s a Holley but is tbere a certain number on it. Also would love to know exactly what you used kit for the fuel lines comming out the carb.
I used a Holley Street Avenger 670. I have used those in the past and I really like them. For the duel feed fuel line, I used one from summit racing that was really nice. www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220106bn-b
You got the part number of mustang joint
I don’t have a plasma.. would a grinder, air hammer and sawzaw work good to get the old subframe out of the truck?
Yeah a couple of long bi-metal blades on a sawz-all would work. Its going to eat up a few blades and beat you up, but it would get the job done. You may ask around, you'd be surprised who's friend's dad, has a plasma they would be willing to bring over and cut up an old truck for you
What is the track width of the crown vic front end. That is face to face of the outside disc brake rotors? Anyone
what did you use for motor do you have a pattern i can use
Looking to buy 1962 F100 unibody and upgrade front suspension. This would a lot cheaper than bying a new IFS. I notice in video you said your frame was 68-69. My question is. Are the frames the same on 62 and a 68 F100?
maybe try the nickle copper line
Cant see or find part III
If this was originally a manual brake truck, and you're using the manual brake pedal assembly, the pedal ratio may be off. I know on my Chevy the brake pedal had 2 holes in it, one for manual brakes and one for power brakes. May not be a big issue, but once you get it running, if you have issues, might be worth looking into. Or does this pedal have 2 holes as well, and it is just hard to see in the video? You're doing a great job.
Pedal only has the 1 hole. Hopefully this brake booster works out and doesn't need some crazy adjustment in the future. I guess I won't really know until I am able to start the engine and put some vacuum on it
Link for all the kit please
So did the sway bar work out OK in that location? Im at the same part and have no idea where to mount it
Yes, bolts up and works out great. You can see in my later videos, the engine clears it, and its right at home there
What year crown Vic front end?
Why are you cheaping out on the brake lines...?
How did you end up finishing the rear axle swap?
I am going to do a 4 link swap in the rear, and use the same 8.8 rearend. The leaf spring setup doesn't seem to be very solid. Video to come on installing that 4 link!
CAUTION! If you order the Brake booster / Master from RockAuto it is a "Rebuild and Return Service" only! You must send your old unit in for rebuilding!
Should most of this be the same on a 65 f100? About to tackle the crown Vic swap on mine then after I get to this point I’ll be throwing a ls in it
Yes should be mostly the same! haha Yes join the LS swap club!
6:08, is that shaft going to hit the exhaust manifold...
12:05, cadmium plating...
I test fit the engine this weekend.. and the steering shaft had enough clearance! Clearance was my original concern, thats why i started with the u-joint in the middle of the shaft.
1:00, that's a PRINDLE...
PRNDL= PRINDLE
I'm a retired Ford Lincoln Mercury technician...
Park Reverse Intermittent Neutral Drive Low Extra
You are going to need to install a proportioning valve in the brake system.
Yes, I put one in the rear, mounted to the frame, so I can keep the system balanced
Do you happen to know what type of proportioning valve is needed?
@@domfattarusoracing on mine I ordered one for disc/drum brake system from Jegs
the axles that you adapted from which vehicle are
2003-2009 Crown Vic, grand marquis or Lincoln town car. OR the CV police interceptor 03-2011
Dude don't turn into a MacGyver when it comes to your
brakes get some new lines it'll be well worth the money
The brake booster bracket that you purchased should have come with an intermediate lever that mounts to the upper holes in the bracket itself. The correct booster would have an actuator shaft similar to one that you cut. The booster fastens to the center of the intermediate lever and the bracket that you cut would mount to the bottom of that lever and line up perfectly with the brake pedal. You should also reinstall the brake light switch that you removed. An adjustable proportioning valve is not only a good idea but is essential because of the modifications that you've made but you should reinstall the brake light switch.
Thanks for the knowledgeable comment! I struggled with the brake booster and the bracket. I originally bought a "complete bolt on kit" that was completely wrong, so I had to return it. There are so many manufactures that seem to make "direct factory replacements" that don't fit at all. Your comment it 100% correct though, and I wish I had found a OEM type replacement. The bracket that I bought from PirateJack did come with the intermediate lever, that I ended up removing to make this setup work.. sighhh
Been gone for like 2 months lol.
Doing this to my truck, what are/did you do to make the rear same height?
I installed a lowering kit, and did an axle flip in the rear. The rear sits much lower than the front now, even after the crown vic swap. I ordered a 4-link for the rear, I'm hoping that will give me a lot more adjustability in the rear ride height.
@@330_garage3 the rear sat lower, even with the engine and trans set in the truck?
You really should have made a new brake line for the crossmember.
Brake line is cheap, I just thought if the OEM front end had one on it, I might as well use it. its not too late... I could bend up another one....
I have a 95 I’m working on and I’ve heard of using crown Vic front ends but I can’t find anything on my year of f150, have you heard of these crown vics working on a 95 f150?
No, haven't seen anyone doing much to the later year models yet, besides the bolt on kits. Would be a cool idea to put a crown vic under one though.
What did ya do with old 5x5.5 wheels. :)
I sold them. But you can find a set off of a dodge van in a salvage yard, usually dirt cheap.
why not just buy the 3/4" spline to dd adapter joint? saves you a connection.
I had tried my original configuration, and was getting tired of dealing with returning parts and fighting with it. Ideally I would have just started with a 3/4" 36 spline to 3/4 DD, U-joint. Now you guys know a possible solution if you are trying to do this yourself though
I have no idea why you removed that brake junction block. What you replaced it with looks more like a gong show than using what was there. Should have left it and just added an adj. proportioning valve in the rear line.
BTW, Rock Auto is about the last place to source correct parts identification pictures. That booster you have certainly is not correct for any 67-72 I've ever seen. Only direct-rod setup I've seen was used on some '77-'79 F100s. That part from pirate jack (I call a gimball assy) kinda acts like a secondary lever and changes the pedal ratio slightly. Correct booster should have had a short rod with eye on the backside, not long rod like what you have. Steering strip looks good, would have like to have seen Ford to DD joint as one, not two joints, but I get it when it comes to chasing parts. Other than that, looks good man, keep with it!
Drum/drum systems run at similar pressure front and rear, as do disc/disc systems. Disc brakes require more pressure (but less volume) than drum brakes, which is why a proportioning valve is necessary with disc/drum systems. You may or may not need a proportioning valve with your new brake system. Assuming the truck had a factory drum/drum system, that is most likely not a proportioning valve. I agree with Dano that you should have left the factory distribution block. It is a multifunction unit designed to detect a hydraulic failure, notify the driver through the warning lamp, and stop flow to the failed circuit. In regards to changing the pedal ratio, you may need to change to a different bore size master cylinder to get proper stopping power with a reasonable amount pedal pressure. If you have to change the master cylinder, look for one that has the same size reservoir for the front and rear, otherwise keep a close eye the fluid level. You will find the level will drop as the brake pads wear and you don't have a lot of reserve volume for the rear with a disc/drum master cylinder. When you're bleeding the brakes, be sure that the pedal can't go all the way to the floor when you open a bleeder (with no air in the other brake circuit). The front brake piston should be able to bottom out against the rear brake piston, or the rear brake piston should be able to bottom out in the cylinder bore (while the other piston is still holding pressure) before the pedal hits the floor. If it doesn't, there's no point in having a dual circuit master cylinder as a failure in either brake circuit will result in a complete loss of brakes. Also, in case you aren't aware, any decent auto parts store should have 25 foot rolls of steel tubing. I find it more convenient to make my own lines than dealing with the pre-made lengths. Some people like the nickel copper tubing because it's easier to work with, but it can work harden and fail sooner and doesn't have as good abrasion resistance. I find 3/16 steel lines to be easy enough to work with and most bends can be made by hand. If you replace the lines from the master cylinder to the frame, make sure to put a coil in the line. That coil is to reduce fatigue as the cab mounts and firewall flex and the master cylinder moves in relationship to the frame. Without those coils, your lines won't last long. They're easy to make by wrapping the line around a piece of pipe. Good luck with your project and thanks for sharing.
I agree about Rock Auto. Twice I've ordered from them, waited a week, and got the wrong parts. Returning them when you live 50 miles from town is a pain in the ass. Now I just drive to town and pay a little more for the RIGHT parts.
Where are you located? I noticed your kit is from Bandera Tx....real close to me!
I'm in McKinney TX. I ordered the kit off ebay, so it could have come from anywhere, but it sounds like you aren't far away.
Just going back thru CV Swap again for a 65 and a 57 f100. What did you do for tires and wheels, back spacing etc... ?
BTW,
We're in Canyon Lake TX
Thanks for the great videos and info
In San Antonio…
All your brake work makes me nervous, go to Summit Racing and get the flex brake lines with the adapters that screw into the hard pieces, I did my COMPLETE brake setup from the T junction to both front wheels and back to the junction at the rear, NO bending of ANY tubing, just screw the flex hoses with adapters to the hard junctions in a jiff
My f100 has a rag joint not a 36 spline end on the steering shaft.
You have to knock that rag joint off. The rag joint is pressed onto the 36 spline shaft. I had to use the air hammer to remove mine.
@@330_garage3
That good to know. Great work on the truck so far.
That ifs work on chevys trucks?
I'm not sure what the difference is in the frame rail width on a chevy.
Is it a crown Victoria or a police interceptor p71 crossmember
Its just from a crown-vic, I don't think the police interceptor has a different cross member, I think they just added an extra cooler added to the police interceptor
@@330_garage3 thks
Double D shaft.
It’s not a “Union”, it’s a coupling.
Shady, better tighten that brake system up is bit ,
yep, still needed to finish the rear brake lines at the time of this video.
Hey are u a member if FordF100World on Facebook?
No I haven't heard of it, I'll check it out
facebook.com/groups/1342327822501237/?ref=share
Hit me up once u join, I’m the founder/admin 👍🏼 -Craig B Heseman
Feel free to post your videos on our groups. We’ve got $70,000 members 👍🏼
sorry motor mounts
You're daddy isn't Rob Bacon is it
Sounds like a pain, just buy a c10 chevy and be done with it
Welcome back
what steering column are you using?