I've done a lot of mains & lighting circuits recently, pulling the CPC copper to split the insulation does work but gets old fast (imagine doing that twice for each downlight in a room!). Well worth investing a small amount in a ratcheting cable stripper, does the job instantly with a perfect finish.
Getting a level across a room with no laser Get a piece of clear tube and half fill with water coloured with dye (food colour, ink) and add a single drop of washing up liquid to overcome surface tension. Needs two people. Stretch pipe across room or round a corner. Then use the marked datum and measure up to where you want tile level etc. Works across several rooms if the is pipe long enough.
Brill vid. Several tips I didn’t know. BTW I used a clear plastic tube with coulered water to level floor joists. Just attach the tube at a convenient place. Mark the level you need to work to and then take the other end to each point in the room that needs a level mark. Takes two to do.
Doesn't really take two (just attach the tube first, then fill it while holding both ends next to each other), and yeah, it's a really good system that lets you quickly mark the same level in different rooms, which a laser can't.
Can't decide what emotion to feel when you showed us the "masking tape mitre" tip. Anger at myself for not thinking of it, sadness at all the times I could have used it, happiness that I'll be able to use it from now on, worry that'll I'll forget to use it! 🙂
@@ReheatedDonut Leave the paint on the glass. I think Stuart was a bit overgenerous with his gap, I'd do 2-3mm. You'd normally only do this if you're repainting windows that have been painted a few times over the years and the cutting in is a bit ropey and this covers all that up. No reason why you can't go right to the edge on new frames and use tape to save you cutting in.
The reversing of the spirit level as you mark a level around a room is a very neat trick and uses the same idea as setting up an engineers optical level (of unknown level accuracy) in the exact middle between origin and destination points to conceal out any error. Thank you for this, it's probably quicker than setting up a laser level - certainly a lot cheaper than buying one for an isolated task.
I'm always amazed and grateful for all those tips. One can immediately tell you are a professional. There are probably hundreds more up your sleeve and they become not so much hacks but the usual way of doing things. Carefully observing how you work one learns all the time. Really pure greatness. For the cable "peeling" I usually just score the insulation all around and then bind the cable and the plastic opens up. This is also useful for making or repairing appliance cables.
Yes i like the 3/8 nylon tube with coloured water in it establishing your level point an then with one person on the first point then a second person can go round the room withe the other end of the tube marking the levels.
To run a level line around a room I use a water level tube. A length of clear tube about 1 cm wide, filled with water (no bubbles). One end fixed to one point on a wall..the other end moved to positions around the room and mark the water height because the water at both ends must be on the same level…You can use this same method to level a large patio or shed base. It is literally 1mm accurate.
With stripping the T&E you can do a very light score around the outer sheath then when you do your tip you can pull hard on the left over insulation and get a very clean end. That plum bob trick is f****ing genius!
Nice one Stewart! Just started adding a few extra sockets in my workshop today, so I’ll be using your cable stripping tip (rather than my usual nibbling in from the end with wire cutters). I also found that the position of the terminals in my sockets meant i needed different length cables feeding in and feeding out. So I drew a little story board with actual cable lengths marked on a scrap of wood, and used it to lay the cables on, so I could cut them all to consistent lengths. Maybe another useful tip for someone.
Some good ideas there. Something I always do for myself or family if I am putting flat pack together is to put the tools that come with it in a plastic bag and tape it out of sight with the furniture instead of adding to my own tools. They are then available if needed instead of having to hunt for the required allen key (usually)
I really appreciated the paper on pipe to make an accurate marker, I have made so many poor cuts. The tape measure tip I will certainly be using now my eyes are failing I need to look very carefully at my marking. Great videos thank you 🤓
Interesting set of tips. Re IKEA hex tool. I keep them from previous units as they can be useful on normal jobs as easier than normal L shaped hex spanner. Also leaves you free to cut one as you suggest and still have one to finish off the job or do the bolt in the corner
Have you tried liquid masking? It paints on and forms a seal on the glass while providing a lasting first coat on the wood. You then paint and trim back with a razor blade. Works well.
Maybe a clear pipe, internal diameter of 10 -12mm and fill mostly with water, as it finds its own level, mark on wall and measure up or down to suit equally on all walls. To stop water spilling and making a mess, place fingers over ends. Can be done solo, but best with two (with two pencils/pens to make the marks)
Loved those tips but I can’t believe you paint on the glass! Prepping for a repaint in the future is made considerably more difficult and the painted glass always looks naff! I always mask to the frame. So much neater in my view.
@@adeh503Because it is easier to scrape paint off glass(with an inexpensive scraper) than it is to line up the masking tape perfectly all the way around,
My Dad, an old school chippy, told me it was to help seal / waterproof over the wooden beading and putty holding the glass in, obviously something that's not needed with a rubber weatherseal
My brother in law (an electrician) taught me a similar way to expose the wires in twin and earth without the need for a Stanley knife. Just catch the insulation with the edge of the pliers and twist. Then you can get at the earth and pull it without the need for two tools.
Really useful tips Stuart. Thank you so much. The State Education dept should make a compulsory GCSE course of your DIY skills. That will be most useful to all those 16yr olds who do not wish to go onto further education but into real life work!
Agreed. I'll never forget - I was about 17 and my Dad was redoing the dining room. He wanted to put in a dado rail, but the section of wall had (1) a door way, and (2) a corner of outcropping wall within it. To get the same level throughout Dad grabbed some of the airline tube I used for my fish tanks, and filled it with water then used the water level both ends to get across the gap and around the outcrop. It was like some sort of magic at the time 😂.
Was taught to use a water level as an electrical apprentice back in the 70’s. We were installing trunking for lighting that formed part of a false ceiling array in an office block. We just used hose pipe with a clear piece at each end with the level marked on. Obviously if you can’t see both ends you will sometimes need two people but it’s (almost) foolproof.
Great masking tape trick, but why would you want to paint a few millimeters on the glass, would you not mask right into the corner to prevent any paint going on the glass?
I think you might more likely to actually want to overlap your paint onto the glass on the outside of a window so it creates a nice seal so water doesn't run down the window and into the joint between the glass and the frame - which can cause a wooden window to rot over time.
That is actually how you are supposed to do it . I , like you , don't actually do this going back to the days before uPVC etc. but each to their own ay .
I always use that method with the T&E. I have heard that you aren’t supposed to do it because it stretches and weakens the earth but I’ve never had an issue.
The force exerted on the wire isn't nearly sufficient to damage it. Perfectly fine way to strip the insulation if lacking a suitable tool (or space to get the tool in).
10:02 - I thought you were going to suggest using a clear hose / flexible plastic tube (filled with water up to your mark), which you can use to mark the same level even on different rooms (which a laser wouldn't be able to do).
Whist i get why you are saying that , have you ever tried to snap the earth by pulling it ? You have no chance , trust me i used to think that you could damage the earth doing this but i tested it and trying to break it i could not do it.
Brilliant Stuart, great practical tips as always, I particularly like the plumb bob tips - excellent solution and not widely known I'm sure, however your advice on how to drill a "nice square hole" would gain a lot of attention as a thumbnail as who doesn't want to know haw to drill a square hole ! 😉
Mate love your videos but us normal blokes don't have unlimited bank accounts and we don't have all the tools you have ,but you give us a good idea love you videos mate keep them coming
Imagine. Most of the tips and tricks that you presented are irrespective of the imperial versus metric. That means that I can use them on this side of the pond. Thank you
The old way of making sure an auger bit was level was to put your wedding ring on it and check gravity did not make it slide. I wouldn't recommend it for a power drill with steel rubbing against gold at high speed, though.
My wife used to laugh at me when I called the plumb line a plumb bob, she said there was no such thing, I told her I made one when I was 14 in metal work at school, I'm 71 now,so a long time ago
Tip with the Allen key is a bad idea, just like the idea of using a cordless drill to run screws into flat pack furniture in order to assemble it, If you think about it for a split second, the reason they include a short Allen Key with flat pack items is so that you don't overtightened the screws and damage the furniture in the process, Most people that assemble flat pack furniture using a drill driver haven't a clue about torque settings on their drills which results in overtightened screws and damaged furniture, which is why your much better off using the tool supplied with the furniture.
@@pcampbell55 I think you might more likely to actually want to overlap your paint onto the glass on the outside of a window so it creates a nice seal so water doesn't run down the window and into the joint between the glass and the frame - which can cause a wooden window to rot over time.
That last tip using the clamp to draw a circle - You can also you your tape measure to perform the same task. Pull the length you want and lock it. Lie the tape measure on it's side, with the pin/screw located in the corner of the tape and body of the tape measure. Hook your pencil at the other end. Perfect circles every time! 👍 Thanks for the tips.
I've done a lot of mains & lighting circuits recently, pulling the CPC copper to split the insulation does work but gets old fast (imagine doing that twice for each downlight in a room!). Well worth investing a small amount in a ratcheting cable stripper, does the job instantly with a perfect finish.
Getting a level across a room with no laser Get a piece of clear tube and half fill with water coloured with dye (food colour, ink) and add a single drop of washing up liquid to overcome surface tension. Needs two people. Stretch pipe across room or round a corner. Then use the marked datum and measure up to where you want tile level etc. Works across several rooms if the is pipe long enough.
If doing the IKEA hex fixings with a drill, definitely use the torque limiting numbers, probably around number 4 to avoid breaking things.
Some great tips there. Now to find a way of remembering them when I actually need them!
Isn't that a fact! But adding this video to my 'Favourites' will help, just so long as I remember I did it! 😄
Brill vid. Several tips I didn’t know.
BTW I used a clear plastic tube with coulered water to level floor joists. Just attach the tube at a convenient place. Mark the level you need to work to and then take the other end to each point in the room that needs a level mark. Takes two to do.
Doesn't really take two (just attach the tube first, then fill it while holding both ends next to each other), and yeah, it's a really good system that lets you quickly mark the same level in different rooms, which a laser can't.
Can't decide what emotion to feel when you showed us the "masking tape mitre" tip. Anger at myself for not thinking of it, sadness at all the times I could have used it, happiness that I'll be able to use it from now on, worry that'll I'll forget to use it! 🙂
I don't get it, do you paint the glass and leave it on? Or clean up the glass afterwards?
@@ReheatedDonut Leave the paint on the glass. I think Stuart was a bit overgenerous with his gap, I'd do 2-3mm. You'd normally only do this if you're repainting windows that have been painted a few times over the years and the cutting in is a bit ropey and this covers all that up. No reason why you can't go right to the edge on new frames and use tape to save you cutting in.
Coffee and toast at the ready for Sunday with Proper DIY!
Made coffee and a poached egg on toast for a change 😊
Maybe it’s the Olympics effect……. I’ve gone all continental this morning.
Coffee & Croissant.
I think you need to get more lol
😐 Me staring at my boring bowl of cereal realising I've just used the last of the milk so can't have a cup of tea, feeling a little left out 😅
@@101projects2 😂
The reversing of the spirit level as you mark a level around a room is a very neat trick and uses the same idea as setting up an engineers optical level (of unknown level accuracy) in the exact middle between origin and destination points to conceal out any error.
Thank you for this, it's probably quicker than setting up a laser level - certainly a lot cheaper than buying one for an isolated task.
I'm always amazed and grateful for all those tips. One can immediately tell you are a professional. There are probably hundreds more up your sleeve and they become not so much hacks but the usual way of doing things. Carefully observing how you work one learns all the time. Really pure greatness.
For the cable "peeling" I usually just score the insulation all around and then bind the cable and the plastic opens up. This is also useful for making or repairing appliance cables.
Yes i like the 3/8 nylon tube with coloured water in it establishing your level point an then with one person on the first point then a second person can go round the room withe the other end of the tube marking the levels.
There were some tips I knew, but also some I didn't! Thank you Stuart!
To run a level line around a room I use a water level tube. A length of clear tube about 1 cm wide, filled with water (no bubbles). One end fixed to one point on a wall..the other end moved to positions around the room and mark the water height because the water at both ends must be on the same level…You can use this same method to level a large patio or shed base. It is literally 1mm accurate.
Thank you.
With stripping the T&E you can do a very light score around the outer sheath then when you do your tip you can pull hard on the left over insulation and get a very clean end.
That plum bob trick is f****ing genius!
Nice one Stewart! Just started adding a few extra sockets in my workshop today, so I’ll be using your cable stripping tip (rather than my usual nibbling in from the end with wire cutters).
I also found that the position of the terminals in my sockets meant i needed different length cables feeding in and feeding out. So I drew a little story board with actual cable lengths marked on a scrap of wood, and used it to lay the cables on, so I could cut them all to consistent lengths. Maybe another useful tip for someone.
Great tips love the masking tape one like you say easy when you know how have a great week😊
The level on the back of the drill will only work if the work suface is also level.
Simply clever ways. Thank you.
Very useful and practical tips especially the plum bob trick, nice!
Some good ideas there. Something I always do for myself or family if I am putting flat pack together is to put the tools that come with it in a plastic bag and tape it out of sight with the furniture instead of adding to my own tools. They are then available if needed instead of having to hunt for the required allen key (usually)
The plumb-line tip alone is worth watching this video for - top tip indeed!
Just putting something like a scrap piece of plywood to block the wind is easier imho
Great tips!
The clamp one for circles, you can also use a tape measure with the blade lock on!
That tape trick ... oh thank you!
Love the clamp trick
Great tips 👍Especially the plumb line and the tape on the window 🪟
I really appreciated the paper on pipe to make an accurate marker, I have made so many poor cuts. The tape measure tip I will certainly be using now my eyes are failing I need to look very carefully at my marking. Great videos thank you 🤓
Interesting set of tips. Re IKEA hex tool. I keep them from previous units as they can be useful on normal jobs as easier than normal L shaped hex spanner. Also leaves you free to cut one as you suggest and still have one to finish off the job or do the bolt in the corner
Have you tried liquid masking? It paints on and forms a seal on the glass while providing a lasting first coat on the wood. You then paint and trim back with a razor blade. Works well.
Why do you want to paint on to the glass?
These are great handy easy tips. One of my favourite diy channels
Maybe a clear pipe, internal diameter of 10 -12mm and fill mostly with water, as it finds its own level, mark on wall and measure up or down to suit equally on all walls.
To stop water spilling and making a mess, place fingers over ends. Can be done solo, but best with two (with two pencils/pens to make the marks)
A lot of useful ideas I didnt know about. Thanks.
7:09 Love that idea for drilling.
Loved those tips but I can’t believe you paint on the glass! Prepping for a repaint in the future is made considerably more difficult and the painted glass always looks naff! I always mask to the frame. So much neater in my view.
Absolutely, why on earth would you paint the glass
@@adeh503Because it is easier to scrape paint off glass(with an inexpensive scraper) than it is to line up the masking tape perfectly all the way around,
@@fernanddubois1792but don’t you then risk damaging the black bead when scraping off the paint ?
My Dad, an old school chippy, told me it was to help seal / waterproof over the wooden beading and putty holding the glass in, obviously something that's not needed with a rubber weatherseal
7:10 it is amazing how you get a round drill bit to make a square hole 😜. Keep up the good work 👍
Clamp and pencil to mark a circle… excellent!
My brother in law (an electrician) taught me a similar way to expose the wires in twin and earth without the need for a Stanley knife. Just catch the insulation with the edge of the pliers and twist. Then you can get at the earth and pull it without the need for two tools.
13:55 you can also do this with the tape measure in locked position.
Always good to gather new info on a Sunday morning with breakfast .
Brilliant as always .
Cheers fella 👊👍❤
Brilliant stuff...I will certainly be using some of these
Helpful and entertaining as ever, thank you for these great tips Stuart.
Really useful tips Stuart. Thank you so much. The State Education dept should make a compulsory GCSE course of your DIY skills. That will be most useful to all those 16yr olds who do not wish to go onto further education but into real life work!
I would agree with you
Just brilliant!
We also used Piano Wire on a plumbob, or an Optical Plumb, oh happy days!!!
Firstly, Love your videos!!
Question… why paint onto the glass of the windows?
Great video Stuart !!!! thanks
Really solid stuff!
5:47 🤯 woo! Now that’s a tip!
I wondered why I had 2 spirit levels on my demon yellow brace. Cheers. Saved loads of stress.
very good video. not seen the trick with the twin and earth or the mitered masking tape corners before. Nice one!
That dampened plumb bob was very cool.
Alternative for marking a complex level without a laser is to use a water level. Simple and accurate.
Agreed. I'll never forget - I was about 17 and my Dad was redoing the dining room. He wanted to put in a dado rail, but the section of wall had (1) a door way, and (2) a corner of outcropping wall within it.
To get the same level throughout Dad grabbed some of the airline tube I used for my fish tanks, and filled it with water then used the water level both ends to get across the gap and around the outcrop. It was like some sort of magic at the time 😂.
Was taught to use a water level as an electrical apprentice back in the 70’s. We were installing trunking for lighting that formed part of a false ceiling array in an office block. We just used hose pipe with a clear piece at each end with the level marked on. Obviously if you can’t see both ends you will sometimes need two people but it’s (almost) foolproof.
Yes if you flood the bathroom up to the level you want the rail, the top of the water will be dead level all the way around.
Some handy tips there guvnor ~ Thanks!
The masking tape I will admit blew my mind 😮😊
I really like these tips. Thank you.
Great masking tape trick, but why would you want to paint a few millimeters on the glass, would you not mask right into the corner to prevent any paint going on the glass?
I think you might more likely to actually want to overlap your paint onto the glass on the outside of a window so it creates a nice seal so water doesn't run down the window and into the joint between the glass and the frame - which can cause a wooden window to rot over time.
That is actually how you are supposed to do it .
I , like you , don't actually do this going back to the days before uPVC etc. but each to their own ay .
@@murmansk69 ah, okay. Makes sense. Thanks
@@graemeadamson7272 thanks. Not heard of this until now
If you have a tape measure with a stop function, you don't even need the clamp. Hook the tape measure behind the screw/nail and the pencil on the tap.
I always use that method with the T&E. I have heard that you aren’t supposed to do it because it stretches and weakens the earth but I’ve never had an issue.
Same. Although, how would you know if there was an issue? House catches fire?
@@RhysMogg maybe earth fault but agree if the theory is true it may cause a fire
The force exerted on the wire isn't nearly sufficient to damage it. Perfectly fine way to strip the insulation if lacking a suitable tool (or space to get the tool in).
How do you mark the position of the plumb bob when it's in the liquid? (Tbh i don't know how to use it when it's not in the liquid...)
Old dog here - learnt something new - nicely done mate
Great tips, Stuart! 👍👍👍
Your wire cutting method is what I do for US wire.
10:02 - I thought you were going to suggest using a clear hose / flexible plastic tube (filled with water up to your mark), which you can use to mark the same level even on different rooms (which a laser wouldn't be able to do).
T&E. Pull the brown and the blue with the grey insulation in either hand.
It reduces the stress on the earth.
Whist i get why you are saying that , have you ever tried to snap the earth by pulling it ? You have no chance , trust me i used to think that you could damage the earth doing this but i tested it and trying to break it i could not do it.
Great man!
Brilliant Stuart, great practical tips as always, I particularly like the plumb bob tips - excellent solution and not widely known I'm sure, however your advice on how to drill a "nice square hole" would gain a lot of attention as a thumbnail as who doesn't want to know haw to drill a square hole ! 😉
Better hack for furniture allen key, buy a set that has allen bits 👍🏽 Much more efficient and is not limited to 1 size bit, you’re welcome 😂
If you are using a tape regularly then try a Hultafors Talmeter.
Very useful - however the new T&E with insulated earth wire makes it not so easy!
Wow, very helpful 👌👌
Found my wife singing the ProperDIY intro song while washing up this morning 😂
And she and Stuart were being so careful to hide the affair!
Good stuff to know - thanks!
Nice tips
Fab tips Stuart!!
I thought I invented the plumb bob trick. I’m devastated! 😊
Love it!
Mate love your videos but us normal blokes don't have unlimited bank accounts and we don't have all the tools you have ,but you give us a good idea love you videos mate keep them coming
Stripping cable...don't deliberately cut through to the twin cable..or..just cut carefully.
The clamp was a clever idea! Some great tips there!
Brain overload,great tips. Bry
Imagine. Most of the tips and tricks that you presented are irrespective of the imperial versus metric. That means that I can use them on this side of the pond. Thank you
I love the cable stripping tip. Yes - that's a 'keeper'!
If you're tiling a whole bathroom the extra cost of a cheap laser level would be insignificant, and make the job a lot easier.
The old way of making sure an auger bit was level was to put your wedding ring on it and check gravity did not make it slide.
I wouldn't recommend it for a power drill with steel rubbing against gold at high speed, though.
Tip No1 … I was taught that on day 1 by my sparky teacher when I began my apprenticeship many many many years ago 😂
My wife used to laugh at me when I called the plumb line a plumb bob, she said there was no such thing, I told her I made one when I was 14 in metal work at school, I'm 71 now,so a long time ago
Cutting the pipe & clamp are clever 1’s
That measuring tape trick is so simple I can't believe I haven't thought of it before!!
Tip with the Allen key is a bad idea, just like the idea of using a cordless drill to run screws into flat pack furniture in order to assemble it,
If you think about it for a split second, the reason they include a short Allen Key with flat pack items is so that you don't overtightened the screws and damage the furniture in the process,
Most people that assemble flat pack furniture using a drill driver haven't a clue about torque settings on their drills which results in overtightened screws and damaged furniture, which is why your much better off using the tool supplied with the furniture.
for tip mentioned at 10 min mark, wouldnt a transparent hose tube filled with water be preferable?
Super
Some really good tips, but am i missing a trick here with the masking tape on the window, why would you want to paint the glass as well?.
I was wondering about that too.
@@pcampbell55 I think you might more likely to actually want to overlap your paint onto the glass on the outside of a window so it creates a nice seal so water doesn't run down the window and into the joint between the glass and the frame - which can cause a wooden window to rot over time.
@@murmansk69 That's a good idea. I just never heard of it before.
Why are you letting any of the paint get onto the window glass though...?
Side cutters will do the same as the knife. Fewer tools to do the same job.
That last tip using the clamp to draw a circle - You can also you your tape measure to perform the same task.
Pull the length you want and lock it. Lie the tape measure on it's side, with the pin/screw located in the corner of the tape and body of the tape measure. Hook your pencil at the other end. Perfect circles every time! 👍
Thanks for the tips.
I swear every Diy'er who lives in England has that Magnusson 4 piece level set from Screwfix
Tecnically bad practice as a spark to pull the cpc to open the cable.....but we all do it so there you go🤫
All are great but im sure the ppls have more often bits at home then metal saw
How many flatpacks have i made over the years .. i only so wish i knew this
Someone is up early getting the worm, well done.
Tip #1- other TH-camrs would want you to buy a £200 cable stripper via their affiliate link.