very good info and not stuck listening or watching a bunch of useless stuff or music. thank you the video and time to respect to your skills and clear teaching.
Those smart boxes are invaluable. My kitchen was recently redone, and they saved a lot of work fixing the contractors mistakes. Also, when installing new outlets, I measure how much spacer is needed and use a kit that has several different spacers made from a black plastic tubing. Yeah it takes a couple of minutes but the result is outstanding. The outlets fit perfectly flat with the wall and are rock solid.
I literally just bought a Southwire box yesterday that I was going to install today (just now saw this video) - thank you for the note about upgrading the screws. I'll get that done.
A lot easier than repairing the drywall overcut! An oversize cover fixes that. Who overcuts like that? A new box was the only fix because the old one was properly secured. Good thing there was a stud there. Without a stud, the back latching kind with wings may have worked because the wings are on the sides, and the height could be centered in the vertical overcut, except that the drywall cracked at the bottom, but stud mounting there is more secure. Great note about the Torx 25 screws! Way to go, Scott. Thanks
Thank you very much. I have this 6 bedroom house with a lot of "loose" electrical outlets, installed by a professional electrician hired by the construction company. These were things I neglected to check before the house was signed over to me. A lesson learned, but then again this is probably my last house. Now that I am retired, I can work on fixing these dismal outlets installed by a professional electrician.
The #1 fix worked like a charm, but I had to put an extra large outlet cover on it to cover where they cut the opening in the tile too big. Looks a little odd but much nicer than regular size outlet cover with a hole showing through the tile.
I want to know how he knew I would need this as this problem just happened about 10 minutes ago and he posted this video about an hour ago. Damn mind reader!
I was thinking "loose" as in not gripping the plug tightly so that wall warts fall out. The solution for that is to replace the outlet, and since you know it's one that gets enough use to wear out, use a higher grade so that it lasts much longer.
95% of the fixes I have done in my house, I could used Option 1 to fix the outlet. I have been upgrading all of our residential outlets to the commercial outlets. I do add 20 amp outlets for any circuits that are 20 amp breakers and wiring. The rest are 15 amp commercial outlets.
The recommendation to replace the screws in a smart box is absolutely right. The smart box itself is an amazing, excellent product. So why do they ship it with screws that are basically bound to fail in the intended scenario? It would be easier to tell friends to use those smart boxes if they came with decent screws.
Yeah, I wish they would upgrade. The ceiling-mount Smart boxes come with 3 stainless steel screws with a nut driver head. 🤷♂️ assuming it is just a cost save for the company.
Thanks Scott. I just put in a couple of those same Southwire boxes two weeks ago. I actually pre-drilled the holes as I was concerned about stripping the screw heads. Will use your method next time with the torx screws.
I live in a manufactured home c. 2006 and I have a GFCI in my kitchen where the old work box ripped through the drywall, causing it to not be secured anymore. Luckily, as the mobile home is a newer one, I was able to find a nearby stud and screw a smart box into it and remount the GFCI. Patching the drywall, then reinstalling the wall plate, I now have a GFCi that is secured in place way better.
Great fix! It appears that the outlet was on an exterior wall, it would be advisable to patch the large gaps around the device box to minimize drafts. I always enjoy your videos.
If you are making this fix using spacers, keep in mind that NEC 314.20 says that the box cant be recessed more than 1/4" back from noncombustable surfaces and must be flush on combustable ones. Otherwise you need to use an approved extension ring (Arlington makes ones for plastic boxes). Also, keep in mind that for multiwire circuits (two pole breaker feeding two separate ckts, sharing a neutral) common in older homes, you cant depend on that receptacle to ensure continuity of that neutral. If it is broken, you can send 180+ volts to a 120v ckt and 50v to the other. Violation of 300.13(B) in that case. So just be aware and careful.
thank you for this info. why do yo say that "you can't depend on that receptacle to ensure continuity?" What does that have to do with it being recesssed? also does what you said about spacers apply to the Flush-Fit plates (e.g. Raco or Southwire brand)?
Good point on keeping the box about 1/8" outside of the drywall BEFORE you torque the screws down. They definitely suck it in a bit, and you and I both know that from experience (obviously). lol. It sucks, as you can't easily resituate it, as the screw holes are already made and they'd be too close to your new screw holes.
Thanks for the suggestions to upgrade the SmartBox. Hadn't considered that option. Makes sense to have the flexibility/option upgrading to a T25 Woodscrew. Nobody wants a stripped screw now or in 5, 10, or 30 years...
Well I’m not 100% sure yet but I have a feeling I’ll have to replace the electrical box rather than use spacers because the entire plug in is nearly hanging out of the wall. I have an old plug in in my garage which makes sense that it’s getting loose but when I had my basement remodeled, plug ins and lights were of course added into the bedroom and basically from day one it’s been loose but now I’m concerned it’s hazardous so I’ll have to get on it asap so thank you so much for sharing how to because I didn’t realize the danger necessarily and I wasn’t sure why it was loose. I think my contractor was in a hurry, not the only issues I’ve had with his work but a positive is I’m learning how to handle it myself.
Thank you for the informative video. How would you fix a loose outlet box in a concrete block wall where a part of the concrete wall adjacent to the side of the box has broken and the opening is too big for the box to remain stable?
Very informative video, I got a question, instead of there being give with the outlet being pushed back. What if the outlet is snug but there’s give left to right but again it’s tight up against the wall?
I had paneling over top of my Sheetrock and when I got rid of paneling , my outlets stick out to far and I can’t get my outlets to go in anymore than they are and I have a gap between the cover plate and wall. I’m stuck. Do they make a thick cover plate that is cut out on the inside so cover plates go tight against the wall? Or what is another way to fix gap
my house is full of loose outlets. the electricians just didnt tighten the outlets against the mud ring on some of them. Fixed around 6 of them that were just like that. I'm just glad it's not the box, because we have metal electrical boxes with conduit.
Thanks for the video! What causes all my outlets to come lose is that it’s becoming so difficult to plug and remove appliances. What’s a good way to make this smoother? Can I use WD40?
I suggest testing BOTH plugs in the outlet before getting to work. Most of the time it won't matter. Sometimes one plug is fed by a different line from the panel than the other plug. If wired properly, both breakers should be twinned at the panel for safety (so if one trips, they both trip). But why trust someone else for your safety? You can take obsessiveness next level by then taking your tester to an outlet with power to serve as a reassuring positive control.
You need a channel for “Everyday rental repairs”. Stuff that only people living in the rentals would do with a lazy/slow to move landlord or rental company.
Can you have a video how to fix the child protection outlet without changing. I have hard time plugging any thing ie toaster plus we don't have any small children. We love ur videos.Thanks
I really think that you should have stressed or at least mentioned that you cut the power to that outlet before you showed pulling the outlet off the wiring and removing the box. You never know who is watching these things. I STAND CORRECTED!
I recently bought a house and many outlet boxes are loose. I found that some are not near a stud at all. Would it be ok to use the box with expansion clips and secure them to the drywall? Or would the box still be loose?
Do you have any idea how to fix the issue of an old work 1-gang electrical outlet box with the two wings that clamp the box to the drywall (Home Depot sku# 141206) in which the wings have broken through the drywall, leaving no way to keep the box secure? The nearest stud is 6" away. I haven't been able to find any solution other than the obvious to remove and replace a section of the drywall in that area which would be a problem because there are cabinets before reaching the stud on the other side of the box. I was hoping there would be a thin plate or set of plates you could buy that you could reinforce the drywall area, or a reverse pattern box with the wings in the opposite corners of the normal boxes. I can't be the only one this has happened to. Thanks in advance for any response, and thanks for your videos.
Now that you've fixed an inside outlet, how about an outside outlet. I have an outside one that's loose. The brick is rough-faced so things aren't flush. There is also the problem of keeping weather tight. Thanks, great video.
If the box if loose as a goose and the drywall is all rotted out, i just put the box back into stuf and drywall over where needed. Works and looks brand new when done.
Can I add another option? Since the box is recessed so far, instead of replacing it, just get a box extension and instead of using the premade spacers, get a length of plastic tubing just big enough to have the #6 mounting screw go through the center. Cut it so it sticks out about 1/8" further than the drywall. Put that behind the box extension and screw it in flush. It will hold it out perfectly, is cheaper than the store bought spacers, and it has just the right amount of "squish" to be the perfect size every single time.
Only one improvement would be to either fix the oversized hole (as you can see the edge of the hole at the top edge of the cover) or center the box in the hole to cover the edges better (this would make the receptacle slightly higher than adjacent ones)
what about when the outlet connections are too tight where forcing plugs in and out causes the whole box to work loose (as in your example) - have found most of the outlets in our house are working loose because of this
There are many solutions ; the simplest being to scrub the plug-pins with the darkest pencil you have (2B , B , HB ) The graphite of the pencil is a good lube & conductive to boot. You might have to repeat occasionally
Or you can buy a box leveler and hook it around the outlet screws and then tighten them up. Problem fixed in one minute. 20 of them from walmart for $8.
My apartment has metal studs with metal outlet boxes. Most of them are sunken and the dry wall was cut too big for the mickey ears to tug on that. I think the spacers idea might work for me. Thanks.
hi, you seem to like wago connectors. i dont like them for the fact the contact on the wire are knife edges. not many amps can be transmitted thru that thin contact, unlike a flat screwed contact. ps im not an electrician.
Just wanted to point out that the Smart Boxes are marked on the back for the size of cable allowed in each clamp. On the 1-gang box, this is 14 on the screw side and 12 on the far side. Each clamp can only support 1 cable, unlike a traditional cable clamp. This means that unfortunately one 12 awg cable has to go through the bottom and the other through the top. I was confused about this so I contacted Southwire about it, and that's what they confirmed for me. Why they don't have any instructions or literature of any kind on this anywhere on the website or in the packaging, who knows.
Does the second part of this video show you calling the drywall person to yell at them? My OCD wouldn't allow me to have one oversized outlet cover in the room. Plus those oversized outlet covers really look like ass and scream, "Hey! Someone made a mistake over here!"
and city to city in some instances. For instance in Illinois NEC is not applied uniformly across the state but instead by each municipality. In my area you can perform work on your own home.
I dont know if "backwiring" is an industry standard term but its horrible to call it so similar to backstabbing. Its just asking for confusion. I mean, you even have to explain it because of the similar naming.
This is a great fix, but I wonder ... Is it against code to simply cut the nails like you did, but instead of removing the whole box just drill 2 holes in the side of the box and move the box where you want it and just use the same type of screws through the original box and secure it that way.. then you don't have to go through the trouble of removing the wires and all that? It's really the same thing, but there might be a code preventing you from doing that... not sure.
For anybody wondering about my question, here's the answer. Sparky Channel did a video on this... Apparently it's not legal. Since the smart box is approved to be that way, it's fine, but to modify an existing gang box is not fine.. : th-cam.com/video/ZiXj0_AQbKs/w-d-xo.html
I don't see anyone mentioning outlets include four spacers, the ears with break lines (in a prior video you broken them off and then produced to use a purchased version of the same, LOL).
How about an option 3 , 4 and 5 on and on … you could have curved it or create a wall or adding volume .. so many quick things yet yiu made 5 mns job to 45 mns
Hope you reported the person and company,who left the electric outlet box loose,which effects the wiring behind the panel.Very dangerous.Also.this person could do the same to others.The company may not be competent.Or perhaps one or more persons in the company are the problem. Or if whoever did this, was not associated with a company,still report him.He (or they if more than one person) also need to be told of the danger it presents.
spray foam,popsicle stix,duct tape,super glue will be used here. i rent and the last owner never fixed anything!! i got extension cords powering the front rooms from the bedrooms😂
Presumably the original installation was done by a "professional" electrician. Shameful. On the replacement, I would think that drilling a pilot hole for the screws would make it easier and less likely to strip the heads of the screws.
@@highvoltage1979 Neither did I. Lighten up a little or a lot. I am conservative and I am entitled to freedom of speech. I would say I was joking but now I will say I am serious. Grow up
Maybe you can help. I have several Leviton T5635-W outlets that I installed about a year or so ago. The one I use the most during the day to charge my devices doesn't have a loose connection to the wall, but anything I plug into it is very loose. I have spare outlets I can replace it with. I just didn't know if you, or anyone else on here, could suggest I try first.
You are a legit channel, thanks for your work. Keep it up!!!
Absolutely, I used the near exact same items myself
very good info and not stuck listening or watching a bunch of useless stuff or music. thank you the video and time to respect to your skills and clear teaching.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Those smart boxes are invaluable. My kitchen was recently redone, and they saved a lot of work fixing the contractors mistakes. Also, when installing new outlets, I measure how much spacer is needed and use a kit that has several different spacers made from a black plastic tubing. Yeah it takes a couple of minutes but the result is outstanding. The outlets fit perfectly flat with the wall and are rock solid.
I literally just bought a Southwire box yesterday that I was going to install today (just now saw this video) - thank you for the note about upgrading the screws. I'll get that done.
A lot easier than repairing the drywall overcut! An oversize cover fixes that. Who overcuts like that? A new box was the only fix because the old one was properly secured. Good thing there was a stud there. Without a stud, the back latching kind with wings may have worked because the wings are on the sides, and the height could be centered in the vertical overcut, except that the drywall cracked at the bottom, but stud mounting there is more secure. Great note about the Torx 25 screws! Way to go, Scott. Thanks
if its metal stud its sol
Thank you very much. I have this 6 bedroom house with a lot of "loose" electrical outlets, installed by a professional electrician hired by the construction company. These were things I neglected to check before the house was signed over to me. A lesson learned, but then again this is probably my last house. Now that I am retired, I can work on fixing these dismal outlets installed by a professional electrician.
Educate those that installed them;as well as report them;
Good job on NOT putting insulation in the hole behind the electrical box on that OUTSIDE WALL, Scott.
THANKS 🤗 SCOTT, I WOULD GO WITH #2 and your advice on the screws 👍💚💚💚
Thanks for the feedback!
The #1 fix worked like a charm, but I had to put an extra large outlet cover on it to cover where they cut the opening in the tile too big. Looks a little odd but much nicer than regular size outlet cover with a hole showing through the tile.
I have that same problem in my house. I'm not happy that I have to change all of the wall plates, but there we are.
I had to redo like 80% of my outlets since whoever cut them in smoked crack before still way easier /cheaper than fixing Sheetrock
@@BobBob-il2ku fixing drywall is incredibly easy.
I want to know how he knew I would need this as this problem just happened about 10 minutes ago and he posted this video about an hour ago. Damn mind reader!
Your videos do a great job of explaining stuff. Makes these home repairs not look so intimidating.
Excellent video - thank you.
Option 2 is more like it. Great demonstration. Thank you for sharing
I was thinking "loose" as in not gripping the plug tightly so that wall warts fall out. The solution for that is to replace the outlet, and since you know it's one that gets enough use to wear out, use a higher grade so that it lasts much longer.
Same thinking here! I needed a video about this very thing
95% of the fixes I have done in my house, I could used Option 1 to fix the outlet. I have been upgrading all of our residential outlets to the commercial outlets. I do add 20 amp outlets for any circuits that are 20 amp breakers and wiring. The rest are 15 amp commercial outlets.
The recommendation to replace the screws in a smart box is absolutely right. The smart box itself is an amazing, excellent product. So why do they ship it with screws that are basically bound to fail in the intended scenario? It would be easier to tell friends to use those smart boxes if they came with decent screws.
Yeah, I wish they would upgrade. The ceiling-mount Smart boxes come with 3 stainless steel screws with a nut driver head. 🤷♂️ assuming it is just a cost save for the company.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Great point. I have used the ceiling-mounted boxes, and found those screws worked great.
Thanks Scott. I just put in a couple of those same Southwire boxes two weeks ago. I actually pre-drilled the holes as I was concerned about stripping the screw heads. Will use your method next time with the torx screws.
I live in a manufactured home c. 2006 and I have a GFCI in my kitchen where the old work box ripped through the drywall, causing it to not be secured anymore. Luckily, as the mobile home is a newer one, I was able to find a nearby stud and screw a smart box into it and remount the GFCI. Patching the drywall, then reinstalling the wall plate, I now have a GFCi that is secured in place way better.
Great fix! It appears that the outlet was on an exterior wall, it would be advisable to patch the large gaps around the device box to minimize drafts.
I always enjoy your videos.
Yeah, you use the little outlet seals which usually can help reduce gaps without a lot of extra work amzn.to/451yPdp .
Option 2. I did 4 boxes a year ago. Those boxes are great.
If you are making this fix using spacers, keep in mind that NEC 314.20 says that the box cant be recessed more than 1/4" back from noncombustable surfaces and must be flush on combustable ones. Otherwise you need to use an approved extension ring (Arlington makes ones for plastic boxes). Also, keep in mind that for multiwire circuits (two pole breaker feeding two separate ckts, sharing a neutral) common in older homes, you cant depend on that receptacle to ensure continuity of that neutral. If it is broken, you can send 180+ volts to a 120v ckt and 50v to the other. Violation of 300.13(B) in that case. So just be aware and careful.
thank you for this info. why do yo say that "you can't depend on that receptacle to ensure continuity?" What does that have to do with it being recesssed? also does what you said about spacers apply to the Flush-Fit plates (e.g. Raco or Southwire brand)?
Good point on keeping the box about 1/8" outside of the drywall BEFORE you torque the screws down. They definitely suck it in a bit, and you and I both know that from experience (obviously). lol. It sucks, as you can't easily resituate it, as the screw holes are already made and they'd be too close to your new screw holes.
Option 2 worked for me
I fixed this problem at my brothers newly built house by cutting a Bic pen to fit the space.
The electric wires may have been damaged;better have it checked out,by an electrician.
Thanks for the suggestions to upgrade the SmartBox. Hadn't considered that option. Makes sense to have the flexibility/option upgrading to a T25 Woodscrew. Nobody wants a stripped screw now or in 5, 10, or 30 years...
Amen to that!
Maybe at the 31 year mark😉
Often you can bend the ears of the receptacle to make contact with the box instead of using spacers. Faster and cheaper. Works most of the time.
Well I’m not 100% sure yet but I have a feeling I’ll have to replace the electrical box rather than use spacers because the entire plug in is nearly hanging out of the wall. I have an old plug in in my garage which makes sense that it’s getting loose but when I had my basement remodeled, plug ins and lights were of course added into the bedroom and basically from day one it’s been loose but now I’m concerned it’s hazardous so I’ll have to get on it asap so thank you so much for sharing how to because I didn’t realize the danger necessarily and I wasn’t sure why it was loose. I think my contractor was in a hurry, not the only issues I’ve had with his work but a positive is I’m learning how to handle it myself.
Why not put the new box in a little bit higher? So that the drywall gaps are even on top and bottom. Two small gaps instead of one large one.
i think its better for it to touch at least on one side because splitting the difference is going to have none of them touching
Great advice: upgrading the screws
Makes a big difference 💯
Thank you for the informative video. How would you fix a loose outlet box in a concrete block wall where a part of the concrete wall adjacent to the side of the box has broken and the opening is too big for the box to remain stable?
Great vid. Option 2 is better. But why didn’t u pigtail since you had all that disconnected? Thanks.
Very informative video,
I got a question, instead of there being give with the outlet being pushed back. What if the outlet is snug but there’s give left to right but again it’s tight up against the wall?
I had paneling over top of my Sheetrock and when I got rid of paneling , my outlets stick out to far and I can’t get my outlets to go in anymore than they are and I have a gap between the cover plate and wall. I’m stuck. Do they make a thick cover plate that is cut out on the inside so cover plates go tight against the wall? Or what is another way to fix gap
Thank you so much for great video 👍
I have used the spacers a number of times.
Option 1 did it for me.
Thanks for the feedback!
I like the option that eliminates Maxi Block and looks good.
my house is full of loose outlets. the electricians just didnt tighten the outlets against the mud ring on some of them. Fixed around 6 of them that were just like that. I'm just glad it's not the box, because we have metal electrical boxes with conduit.
Thanks for the video! What causes all my outlets to come lose is that it’s becoming so difficult to plug and remove appliances. What’s a good way to make this smoother? Can I use WD40?
Thanks. How dangerous is it to be left loose?
Imi want to upgrade some of my old outlets, which one do you recommend?
Thanks
Really great video man
Thanks!
I suggest testing BOTH plugs in the outlet before getting to work. Most of the time it won't matter. Sometimes one plug is fed by a different line from the panel than the other plug. If wired properly, both breakers should be twinned at the panel for safety (so if one trips, they both trip). But why trust someone else for your safety? You can take obsessiveness next level by then taking your tester to an outlet with power to serve as a reassuring positive control.
Good video. Another note If you're going to take the plug apart, you should pigtail the wires also. So you don't have future problems.
You need a channel for “Everyday rental repairs”. Stuff that only people living in the rentals would do with a lazy/slow to move landlord or rental company.
Great video!
Thanks!
Can you have a video how to fix the child protection outlet without changing. I have hard time plugging any thing ie toaster plus we don't have any small children. We love ur videos.Thanks
Thanks!
I really think that you should have stressed or at least mentioned that you cut the power to that outlet before you showed pulling the outlet off the wiring and removing the box. You never know who is watching these things.
I STAND CORRECTED!
It says it in the beginning.
First thing he said with the outlet tester plugged in...
@@nilscoyne3137missed that!
@0:28
Man's said we did turn off the breaker (never know who is watching guess u ment yourself 🤣🤣
I'm having a hard time finding the screws that were mentioned in this video. 1.5 inch GRK star head screws?
I recently bought a house and many outlet boxes are loose. I found that some are not near a stud at all. Would it be ok to use the box with expansion clips and secure them to the drywall? Or would the box still be loose?
Do you have any idea how to fix the issue of an old work 1-gang electrical outlet box with the two wings that clamp the box to the drywall (Home Depot sku# 141206) in which the wings have broken through the drywall, leaving no way to keep the box secure? The nearest stud is 6" away. I haven't been able to find any solution other than the obvious to remove and replace a section of the drywall in that area which would be a problem because there are cabinets before reaching the stud on the other side of the box. I was hoping there would be a thin plate or set of plates you could buy that you could reinforce the drywall area, or a reverse pattern box with the wings in the opposite corners of the normal boxes. I can't be the only one this has happened to. Thanks in advance for any response, and thanks for your videos.
Now that you've fixed an inside outlet, how about an outside outlet. I have an outside one that's loose. The brick is rough-faced so things aren't flush. There is also the problem of keeping weather tight. Thanks, great video.
Those smart boxes should almost just be the new standard. Or retrofit boxes. Just seems to be a nicer fit and finish after the drywallery.
Good job and good vid ... Thx
If the box if loose as a goose and the drywall is all rotted out, i just put the box back into stuf and drywall over where needed. Works and looks brand new when done.
Can I add another option? Since the box is recessed so far, instead of replacing it, just get a box extension and instead of using the premade spacers, get a length of plastic tubing just big enough to have the #6 mounting screw go through the center. Cut it so it sticks out about 1/8" further than the drywall. Put that behind the box extension and screw it in flush. It will hold it out perfectly, is cheaper than the store bought spacers, and it has just the right amount of "squish" to be the perfect size every single time.
Heh, in a pinch, I used zip ties around outlet screws to act as spacers in the past. I didn't know about the spacers back then.
Thank you
Only one improvement would be to either fix the oversized hole (as you can see the edge of the hole at the top edge of the cover) or center the box in the hole to cover the edges better (this would make the receptacle slightly higher than adjacent ones)
what about when the outlet connections are too tight where forcing plugs in and out causes the whole box to work loose (as in your example) - have found most of the outlets in our house are working loose because of this
There are many solutions ; the simplest being to scrub the plug-pins with the darkest pencil you have (2B , B , HB )
The graphite of the pencil is a good lube & conductive to boot. You might have to repeat occasionally
Hi! Why don’t you use “J Hook” in this case?
Or you can buy a box leveler and hook it around the outlet screws and then tighten them up. Problem fixed in one minute. 20 of them from walmart for $8.
My apartment has metal studs with metal outlet boxes. Most of them are sunken and the dry wall was cut too big for the mickey ears to tug on that.
I think the spacers idea might work for me. Thanks.
Yeah, that would be my approach, best of luck on the project!
I had a tab on my plastic old work box break off and go down in the wall. Should I buy a new box?
No
@@highvoltage1979 ? Tell me more.
hi, you seem to like wago connectors. i dont like them for the fact the contact on the wire are knife edges. not many amps can be transmitted thru that thin contact, unlike a flat screwed contact. ps im not an electrician.
Just wanted to point out that the Smart Boxes are marked on the back for the size of cable allowed in each clamp. On the 1-gang box, this is 14 on the screw side and 12 on the far side. Each clamp can only support 1 cable, unlike a traditional cable clamp. This means that unfortunately one 12 awg cable has to go through the bottom and the other through the top. I was confused about this so I contacted Southwire about it, and that's what they confirmed for me. Why they don't have any instructions or literature of any kind on this anywhere on the website or in the packaging, who knows.
Option 2 for me.
Does the second part of this video show you calling the drywall person to yell at them? My OCD wouldn't allow me to have one oversized outlet cover in the room. Plus those oversized outlet covers really look like ass and scream, "Hey! Someone made a mistake over here!"
How much of this DIY is legal instead of having it done by a licensed electrician? Does it vary from state to state?
and city to city in some instances. For instance in Illinois NEC is not applied uniformly across the state but instead by each municipality. In my area you can perform work on your own home.
I was tracking real nicely and thinking to myself “I could do this.” Then the video hit 3:18
If fix #1 doesn’t work for me, it ain’t happening.
I dont know if "backwiring" is an industry standard term but its horrible to call it so similar to backstabbing. Its just asking for confusion. I mean, you even have to explain it because of the similar naming.
This is a great fix, but I wonder ... Is it against code to simply cut the nails like you did, but instead of removing the whole box just drill 2 holes in the side of the box and move the box where you want it and just use the same type of screws through the original box and secure it that way.. then you don't have to go through the trouble of removing the wires and all that? It's really the same thing, but there might be a code preventing you from doing that... not sure.
For anybody wondering about my question, here's the answer. Sparky Channel did a video on this... Apparently it's not legal. Since the smart box is approved to be that way, it's fine, but to modify an existing gang box is not fine.. :
th-cam.com/video/ZiXj0_AQbKs/w-d-xo.html
Where do you get these "smart" boxes? A Google search just returns ordinary outlet boxes...
Here is an Amazon link but I also get them locally at Menards amzn.to/3TJELFo
I don't see anyone mentioning outlets include four spacers, the ears with break lines (in a prior video you broken them off and then produced to use a purchased version of the same, LOL).
Nice wera driver
How about an option 3 , 4 and 5 on and on … you could have curved it or create a wall or adding volume .. so many quick things yet yiu made 5 mns job to 45 mns
Hope you reported the person and company,who left the electric outlet box loose,which effects the wiring behind the panel.Very dangerous.Also.this person could do the same to others.The company may not be competent.Or perhaps one or more persons in the company are the problem.
Or if whoever did this, was not associated with a company,still report him.He (or they if more than one person) also need to be told
of the danger it presents.
just stuff some small pieces of paper in with it when u plug it in. tighter fit
Much easier is to use wedges around the box to fill the soace
wasn't that 2 separate circuits ?🤔
spray foam,popsicle stix,duct tape,super glue will be used here. i rent and the last owner never fixed anything!! i got extension cords powering the front rooms from the bedrooms😂
Waygo is German lever nuts. Waygu is Japanese Beef
Looks like a maxi block outlet cover. Maybe not a deal breaker, but a sign of poor construction.
The "go ahead and…"-count on that video is THROUGH THE ROOF!
😂 you have to take a shot every time I say it.
If all you need is a spacer, just make your own by cutting the body of a ball pen to the appropriate length.
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So jealous of all the world that doesn't have to use conduit by code.
Why do you use the spacers and not a nut? It seems like it would be a lot cheaper.
It's conductive, odds are it would be fine, buttttt it's not worth the Risk.
Where is your pigtail????
"These screws are kinda stripped out"... proceeds to reuse the screws.. Dude replace them.
Presumably the original installation was done by a "professional" electrician. Shameful.
On the replacement, I would think that drilling a pilot hole for the screws would make it easier and less likely to strip the heads of the screws.
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Hi, your video content is very expressive, I would like to sponsor a smart sprinkler controller for your lawn, are you interested?
Please go ahead and stop using the term, "go ahead"!
Can we stay away from Woke Disney and not use the term Wokey Mouse ears.
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I didn’t come here for politics
@@highvoltage1979 Neither did I. Lighten up a little or a lot. I am conservative and I am entitled to freedom of speech. I would say I was joking but now I will say I am serious. Grow up
I second the motion to drop the MM ears term
@@keith2498 I was joking to nerd
Maybe you can help. I have several Leviton T5635-W outlets that I installed about a year or so ago. The one I use the most during the day to charge my devices doesn't have a loose connection to the wall, but anything I plug into it is very loose.
I have spare outlets I can replace it with. I just didn't know if you, or anyone else on here, could suggest I try first.
What about a box that's floating......not attached to a stud. I know it's not code, but it happens......
I've got one of those in a kitchen with a backsplash.