I can tell you that vice is a Parkinsons Model F Perfect No 8. An excellent item, the design of which eventually became the Record vice. Probably dates to around 1920.
Dom, what did you learn from this, A LOT. A vice of that quality today would cost you a fortune, and you’ve reclaimed one from the scrap heap well done 👍
Dominic you need to wrap the vice or any object in soft steel wire which can be retained by a piece of wood across the top of the tank. You were correct in cleaning the sacrificial steel electrodes. The electrolyte should still. The vice should have taken about a week to clean in the tank. Keep cleaning the sacrificial electrodes every 24 hours. Electrolysis would have freed the vice without the need for brute force. The vice also needed to have been sat on wood or plastic blocks in the tank, so the current can flow from all surfaces. If the object is too big, then turn the object over in the tank half way through the process, to ensure it gets cleaned evenly.
@@gostabergman5062 I simmer them in caustic soda and then a pressure washer BEFORE going to electrolysis ... Shifts all the grease and paint, so electrolysis can work properly
I have a deep appreciation, for anyone who truly restores an item. Being it vices, anvils, air guns or actual mistreated firearms. Youre truly saving history from destruction. Yard ornaments, use a dumped over wheelbarrow, with flowers spilled out.
I swear that's my old vice... I sold it to someone years ago and forgot all about it. Good to see it restored! Good job Dom. Try Evaporust next time. It's not cheap but it gets into every nook and cranny.
I've used exactly your setup for rust removal during many, many restoration projects. Electrolysis is a win-win-win solution for a restorer. It has saved me hours of time, not to mention the cost, of wire brushing, grinding, heating with torches, and banging away with hammers. I haven't had to buy any expensive rust-removal chemicals (or dispose of them when they wear out). I haven't had to use vinegar, salt, or muriatic acid, and have avoided both the cost and the disposal of those corrosive "cleaners." My very first restoration with electyrolysis was exactly the same as yours: a rusted, seized up vise. To carry current to all the parts, I wrapped it tightly in about two meters of bare, #14 copper wire that contacted all parts as much as possible. I sanded to bare metal whenever possible, to enhance the connections, then wired it up to a small DC power supply at 12V and 2 amps. It sat in its bath for a week. Every day I'd skim the brown, foamy crud off the surface. Then I'd turn off the current and reach into the completely non-toxic electrolytic bath to lightly brush the black scum off the anvil and the rust off the sacrificial steel, without any disassembly of the setup or removing the vise. Doing this cleaning took about two minutes a day, and in a week I never had to change the solution or add washing soda; all I had to do was top up the water a few times. The entire process, from setup, through daily quick-cleaning, and to the very end took me less than two hours and cost me USD$5 for washing soda and about USD$3 for electricity. I finally ended the process when all bubbling and scum-formation finally ceased. I removed the vise and cleaned it in warm, soapy water then turned the handle. It was freed up! There was plenty more to be done, but electrolysis was a tremendous labor saver. The hardest part of the process was maintaining my patience. In the end, it was, as I said, a win-win-win solution to rust removal during a restoration. I hope you do more of these.
Nice work. A big old vice like that will literally last for centuries if it's looked after. It's a damned shame when this stuff is left to rust. I like your approach of blacking it up with oil and using it for its intended purpose. The whole flawless painted finish approach is ridiculous on a piece of engineering equipment.
I love your enthusiasm and energy, Dom. And I get overexcited and put things together in the wrong order too, so you are not alone. Thanks for sharing, and for your honesty 🌞
Love it when a project takes a bit of a turn, you always end up learning so much going places you never thought you were gonna go. Looks great and saved from the scrap heap. Well done!
That's phenomenal. I have an old vice in the garage that belonged to my grandfather. He's been dead for 35 years and the vice is really rusty but it still operates. Your video has given me the encouragement to clean it up and give it a bit of well deserved TLC after what must be 80 years of use.
Sorry but I had to stop and comment because I have this exact vice and I have just finished restoring it to it’s former glory… really good strong vice and a bit of British engineering for another 30+ years. I painted it a nice green and then painted the makers mark in white touch up. Really happy with it 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
That is now a thing of beauty, very well done, wonderful watching the process, and how lovely the vice is now. I am sure that a new one would be wildly more expensive than the ?£100 you have spent on parts. Also you have a piece of history to treasure. Awesome.
Anode...cathode....schmathode !. Call them 'lecky bits' and all us non-worthy subscribers will know what you mean !. Loved this video and never apologise for your mistakes as its your down to earth honesty and enthusiasm for your craft that makes watching this channel so enjoyable Dom.
You look just like the guy on the BBC show, "The Repair Shop." I use electrolysis all of the time on my car restoration. Great tool for eliminating rust.
Dom, I was planning to do exactly this to four vises. You kept me from spending a lot of money, time and effort. Dissasemble, degrease, electrolysis, wash, polisher, chemical protection, reassemble! Thank you, now I know how to do it correctly.
Great video Dom. Electrolysis is fascinating…probably a bit much for the old vice. I think that with connecting the dodgy bits to the wires it could have worked. Not a failure either bud, look at the cracking vice you now have bolted to your workbench! I look forward to the next video. Thank you
Just love the way you are honest enough to leave the assembly mistake in the final cut, it immediately earned the thumbs up with me in recognition that i would probably made the sane mistake first time around. Really enjoy coming along for the ride and learning with you.
Great video Dom, and thank you. It’s good to see these great pieces of engineering being returned to service. It’s not until you have used a good quality vice do you really appreciate it. Your video clearly shows the Achilles heel of the electrolysis technique is the electrolyte needs to wet the surfaces. Works well though!
So interesting. I have that very same vice, which I inherited from my late father. I am not sure how old it is, but I have known it for almost 60 years myself. Mine has seen a lot of service over the years. It is still in pretty good condition. It is an amazingly strong and useful vice, and, in an odd way, feels like an old friend.
Hey Dom - I helped a neighbour with a garage clear out and won myself two 6/12 volt car battery chargers! Electrolysis here we come! Thinking a trip to the market for rusty tools then see what we can do with them .... maybe a piece of art even!
Nice done. Much better then the restoring films on TH-cam which make everything shine. And a important tip:Never use kitchensalt NaCl because it gives chloride-gas which will poison you.
Appreciate that tip on the salt thank you for that! It’s nice to restore something and be able to use it after without worrying about chipping the paint, functional is so much more important to me…
2 videos ago, I also restored a rusty vise, but a tiny one! I used a DIY cream (beeswax + linseed oil + turpentine) to protect it from rusting, that seems to be working fine as well, but only time will tell! :) I really like the look of those guys, without paint. Your video was very interesting to watch, thank you!
Where items have discreet parts eg dynamic jaw, fixed jaw, handle, screw etc. It is always best to place wire connections to each part to ensure they all get 'equal attention'. I usually precede this by simmering the vice in hot caustic [Lye] solution for half an hour or so to remove grease oil and paint. Then I hit it with the pressure washer and only then move on to electrolysis .... sounds like a real faff to do, but it pays dividends and saves time later.
I have just cleaned up the inside of my brothers rusty fuel tank for his motorbike using this process, insulated annode through the filler cap. Worked a treat.
Dom, I’m not sure if anybody else has mentioned this in the comments but this method only works on ‘line of sight’, so if the vice was always stood on its mounts the underneath would never have the rust removed effectively. I’ve used it to free up stuff for years but you’ve gotta let the anodes and a diodes ‘see’ each other. Great vids btw.
Awesome restoration there, love the result and thanks for the tip about coating the raw finish as I have recently restored my late dad's Record No 4 vice which I remember using as a child some 35+ years ago so will be giving that stuff a go 😁👍
....... and is poorly cast in china - best to restore quality old kit every time if you are going to do more than hobby work. Irwin i a sort of 'halfway house'. A vice of the quality of this old Parky will be 750 quid and upwards
A great watch Dom! Was interested to see how it would turn out. I used to work in a small electroplating company a few years back, and have a understanding of the process!
Really great rescue! I bought sodium carbonate for laundry purposes. It's often sold as, "Washing Soda". I relate the -ve terminal as cathode and the +ve as anode. That ring completion as suggested by your brother is good because it reduces the accumulated contact resistance of all the daisy-chained crock-clip connections (and that of the wire) as seen by the last anode in the chain, so the furthest is now the one at the opposing end of the tank which now sees half the resistance it saw before (because there are twice the number of current paths to it). This is similar to cathodic protection of boat hulls.
I did a slightly smaller vice same way I did strip vice into bits. I used water and washing soda (the best stuff) as electrolyte set up the anodes with some metal plates in the electrolyte. If you use other steels gases given off can be poisonous. Plain iron steel is what you want hydrogen gas is given off make sure area is vented. I had 2 amps on charger when operating. Worked it for for 6 to 8 hours, cleaned up the setup safe to put down drain agitated with wire brush to loosen off crap, most came off easily. Cleaned up the anodes Back in tank again fresh water and washing soda and go again, did the same again. Three cleanings and spotless. I had to wire brush but was easy. Experts say use distilled water and you will not get black coating, which you have to wire brush off. They say also say out of mix into clean water and clean under water. Done Hammerited blue new jaws and in operation.
Great film as ever, I for one appreciate the 'mistakes' as this is what usually happens to me and at least you take the time to explain and how to rectify them. One question Dom, how do you dispose of the "sludge" from the tank? Is it acceptable to dispose of via household drain? Many thanks in anticipation.
Thank you for the comment and the kind words! The liquid is fine to go down the drains, if there’s any large chunks of rust or bits you might want to scoop them out and bin them!
Well done Dom (and your bro'). Glad you got it done by using multiple methods, brute force & informed knowledge. Turned out beautifully and for what it cost, will be a really useful tool for many years to come. I hope that you enjoy it every time you put it to good use.
Really glad you did this video! My vice has been waiting to be restored and the extra tips you gave will be really helpful, thanks! 😀👍🏻 *buys more crocodile clips
Hydrogen tends to rise very quickly and is much safer (for want of a better term) to be around than compared to petrol fumes - but still better to be safe than sorry. I like the humour and testing. You have another subscriber. Have a safe and nice day all. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Brilliant video Dom- much better than watching paint dry - The electrolysis helped heaps in getting the vice almost ready to fall apart, with a bit of elbow grease and a big hammer and your brother's help 👌😊 Vice now sorted and ready for action again - looking forward to next week's video 😊
Love it, love it, love it. Great job on the vice and great video. Brought back memories of touring the Record factory in Sheffield in about 1981 and seeing their Disamatic casting line in action.
I used this method today to clean a metal coolant pipe of my BMW E30. The results amazed me!!!! I how to do it here, thanks. I'm now derusting a big pulley off some old machine. Next the old railway sign frame. Love it!!!
Wonderful restoration. I have tons of tools that I have restored over the years. Mostly small steel hand tools. I have also found that a nice paint job on an old tool looks out of place on a piece of history such as an old tool. I have a fetish for hammers. Thanks to you I can enter the next chapter in my quest for restoring tools that the next generation can enjoy. Many many thanks.
I had a vise about the same size as yours, given to me from a friend that's so cheap he squeaks. He never would have given it to me had he thought it salvageable. It resembled a huge chunk of rust. One day I decided to drop it into my tank and give it a go. I ran two chargers, each feeding the plates on half the tank, and I kept swapping out the plates as they'd get too bad. Let them dry, hit them with an abrasive disk, down to bare metal, and then use them again. Anyway, it took about three weeks in the tank. When I pulled it out, everything was cleaned, even in between the parts. I'm surprised that it worked within the slide since I'd have thought it would have worked like a Faraday cage... preventing the electrolysis process from working.
Hey Dom it is so nice seeing you do this and showing your mistakes , well they are not mistakes your learning Top bloke that vice would cost an arm and a leg and worth so much now its usable well done great stuff..older tools are worth there weight in gold.
Yep, I used the method to clean off parts of a lathe I restored and watched your first video for a tutorial. All I had was a pair of new style chargers. Of course they have a circuit detecting circuit else they will not turn on. What I then did was trick it out by using a battery in circuit with the whole set up. This worked until the charger shut off when the battery reached full charge. I achieved 2 hours and that was enough and after I was finished I remembered I had a 3 amp 12 volt power supply that would have been the cat's meow.
Hi Dom Well that is a nice vice & all things worked but in different way. Well done Dom shows what can be done to rebuild rather than throwing away. Take care.
Again, Dominic another brilliant video ! I have been experimenting with my setup since your 1st video on the subject, and have now a fairly respectable and efficient system. I fitted a brewing cask tap to the side of the new tank (upped the size from 2.5 L to 25 L) and can now drain it direct into a bucket without baling. An old plastic coated metal freezer basket holds the job and with rope loops each end means you can lift it out, job and all, without getting rust water over your arms. The water where I live is hard, so tried soft water from the rain water butt - the current increased by around 50% - so would recommend it if you have this problem. To get the correct amount of washing soda, I set the tank up to work with a random piece of iron as cathode and measured the voltage between the job and the anodes. I found that an addition of 100 grams of soda in 500mL warm water, added to the tank decreased the load voltage, indicating higher conduction. Jotted down the figures, found the optimum to be 300 - 350 grams of soda to 25 L soft water. Adding more past this did not increase the current enough to justify it. Next, the croc clip method is too unreliable and inefficient - I found much of the current being lost from them, rather than the job, as evidenced by the bubbles created around them. I made up some wire connections instead by fashioning half inch diameter loops in the end and soldering them. the other end of the (bare) wire goes through that small loop and the big loop goes right around the job, instead of passing current at the one connection point as with the croc clip. Working on an old joiner's vice, I found that 3 wires attached this way cut the job time down to a couple of hours and with a better result - the un-looped part of the wire having the insulation left intact to save losing current to the soda solution. Also, wires can be threaded (ones without the small loop) to reach hidden areas - I found this worked well with a table vice that would not succumb to the regular treatment - after treatment, used a releasing oil with graphite in it: 'Lauto' brand - sadly no longer made - and left it overnight. Following day, got a mil of movement ! Just worked it loose in a few minutes after that with very little effort. I had already outgrown my little 12V 4 Amp battery charger found on the local tip and made up my own from workshop junk - it gives out 18V at around 11 to 12 Amps - as I did not have spare change for an upgrade. Can give construction details to anyone interested. No doubt I am still learning, and would appreciate tips from anyone with more experience in this rewarding and fascinating hobby.
What about the metal staps that are like cable ties ? Don't know if these are mild steel or stainless. Could you put these around whatever the item is then tighten them up with th croc clip attached to the tail that is stickin gout of the solution ?
@@adrianlynch9435 Yes, anything you've got to hand that wraps around the job, rather than just contacting in one place is a great help to the removal process - more area for the current to work from.
@@tiggywinkle1000 I thought about those as you can tighten them up but not enough to snap off the tail as that way you have lots of surface contactwiththe item that is trying to be de-rusted.
I have that almost-identical vise (a Parkinson No.8a, originally painted red). I made a stand for mine out of 70-year-old oak recovered from a farm gate. Well worth the restoration, it's a beast, and your great-great-grandchildren will revere your memory!!
Great stuff! I've done a bunch of research into electrolysis for rust removal, and tried out a few methods myself, so I think I can clear some stuff up. - Washing soda keeps the water alkaline, which prevents further etching. - The chlorides in salt will speed up corrosion even in electrolysis. They can also potentially release chlorine gas. - Bicarbonate works too, just not quite as well. - Stainless steel can work as the anode BUT some of the chromium in the stainless will turn into chromium trioxide (CrO3), which is very carcinogenic. The quantities are probably low enough for small parts, but it's better to be safe. - Carbon electrodes work quite well, and the water doesn't get all rusty. You can keep using the same electrodes and water many times over that way. - As Paul G already commented, it's better to use a lower current to get into nooks and crannies. The easiest way to control it is lowering voltage. I found that 5V works pretty well. I think most people use 12V battery chargers just because they're easier to find.
Just inherited my Dad's old Record No.24 vice which is equally rusty on the surface but fortunately not seized up. Thinking of using your electrolysis approach but breaking the vice down into it's constituent parts first to attack the rust on all surfaces. Like the idea of using the Owatrol oil instead of Roundell Blue as well.
I did an old Record carpenters vice that was seized and had been left out for 10- 15 years. Using washing powder and water and a “starter charger”, changing the charger terminal over to different parts got the whole thing turning and all the springs worked perfectly.
Lovely vice. I inherited a vice the same size from my grandfather (and two others) for which I am always thankful. Fishoilene (fish oil) is another good alternative for sealing an iron surface. Takes awhile to dry but it will and does a great job.
Nice job Dom. Years ago I worked in a gearbox factory (in the offices) and if the guys had something like that they would drop it into a tank of old automatic transmission fluid for a couple of weeks. That seemed to free up anything! The most difficult part of the operation was to try and forget it and not keep getting it out to fiddle with it. They also had a tank of lanolin which they steeped large metal objects in. That seemed to find its way into all the little crevasses and prevent rust forming.
Great video! Love a good demo of electrochemistry. Your intuitive grasp on electric fields is pretty good. If you want to know more I recomend looking into how old vaccume tubes work (triodes in particular). IMO understanding the interaction of fields will help explain how crevices and details are affected in electrolysis. PSA: Please don't use salt (NaCl) the electrolysis process can produce chlorine gas. The good electrolytes are sodium bicarbonate, Vinegar, lye (sodium hydroxide), potassium hydroxide, phosphoric acid (found in Coca-Cola), or sulfuric acid (found in some drain cleaners).
I actually made an electrolysis tub last night and it’s running in my workshop now, but I know it hasn’t worked because after watching you I can see I didn’t connect the wires up right!! I’m going out there now to do it right. Still got a rusty hammer!!!
Another great video. Makes me wonder how many rusty car parts I might be able to clean up this way. I've got some brake calipers that might just go for a dip.
Dom, Superb video. I like your very honest approach. It does show you can clean heavy rust off large pieces of cast iron and steel to good effect. I think Owatrol owes you - I've just bought some for all my old and new tools. I also have a few very old French axe heads I want to salvage. I'm inspired !
Well worth the cost and effort to restore - a new one would cost a few bob and probably not last anywhere near as long. Nice bit of history :) PS: anyone else been in the shed looking for old rusty stuff to have a go at cleaning it up?
great video , i have very old plumbers stilsons 24 inch , looked fit fr the skip very rusty and ceased, electrolysis tank has made them look like new , wooow
The electrolysis may have been a fail as far as totally removing the rust is concerned but it was a powerful tool in the restoration. Interesting video
I'm loving all your videos. I'd love to see you take electrolysis to the next level and do some electroplating. I'm particularly interested in how to brass plate mild steel.
I love the vise. I personally would have ground, sanded and polished the parts of the dynamic and static jaws that come into contact sliding across each other to smooth out the action. I love the finish you put on it though. Great job and thank you for teaching me something about electrolysis.
It's worth the money for a great old vice. You cant buy a vice half that good now a days. I went through the same thing with my old Wilton 6 inch jaw vice. And it is like a best friend in my shop now..
Hi Dom I found an ancient leg vice which is in a similar condition to your vice and I've been contemplating how to attack it. I thought that electrolysis would be the way to begin but did not know how to do it. So thanks for your videos. Now where can I get a giant plastic tub .......... Cheers Dom. Great videos.
You may have spent a bit of money but your vice is still better quality than many on the market.
I can tell you that vice is a Parkinsons Model F Perfect No 8. An excellent item, the design of which eventually became the Record vice. Probably dates to around 1920.
I grew up using my fathers one and absolutely loved the quick release lever on it , the only one ive ever seen.
I have the same vice in the workshop I have been 'getting round to' for about 6 months ...... I will get there one day ;
Dom, what did you learn from this, A LOT. A vice of that quality today would cost you a fortune, and you’ve reclaimed one from the scrap heap well done 👍
Dominic you need to wrap the vice or any object in soft steel wire which can be retained by a piece of wood across the top of the tank. You were correct in cleaning the sacrificial steel electrodes. The electrolyte should still. The vice should have taken about a week to clean in the tank. Keep cleaning the sacrificial electrodes every 24 hours. Electrolysis would have freed the vice without the need for brute force. The vice also needed to have been sat on wood or plastic blocks in the tank, so the current can flow from all surfaces. If the object is too big, then turn the object over in the tank half way through the process, to ensure it gets cleaned evenly.
Should one perhaps use a degreasing bath as well since fat in some form may get inside the mechanism?
@@gostabergman5062
I simmer them in caustic soda and then a pressure washer BEFORE going to electrolysis ... Shifts all the grease and paint, so electrolysis can work properly
I have a deep appreciation, for anyone who truly restores an item. Being it vices, anvils, air guns or actual mistreated firearms. Youre truly saving history from destruction. Yard ornaments, use a dumped over wheelbarrow, with flowers spilled out.
I swear that's my old vice... I sold it to someone years ago and forgot all about it. Good to see it restored! Good job Dom.
Try Evaporust next time. It's not cheap but it gets into every nook and cranny.
If that's the only vice you have trouble with in your life Dom, you are a lucky man my friend 👍🇬🇧...
I've used exactly your setup for rust removal during many, many restoration projects. Electrolysis is a win-win-win solution for a restorer. It has saved me hours of time, not to mention the cost, of wire brushing, grinding, heating with torches, and banging away with hammers. I haven't had to buy any expensive rust-removal chemicals (or dispose of them when they wear out). I haven't had to use vinegar, salt, or muriatic acid, and have avoided both the cost and the disposal of those corrosive "cleaners." My very first restoration with electyrolysis was exactly the same as yours: a rusted, seized up vise. To carry current to all the parts, I wrapped it tightly in about two meters of bare, #14 copper wire that contacted all parts as much as possible. I sanded to bare metal whenever possible, to enhance the connections, then wired it up to a small DC power supply at 12V and 2 amps. It sat in its bath for a week. Every day I'd skim the brown, foamy crud off the surface. Then I'd turn off the current and reach into the completely non-toxic electrolytic bath to lightly brush the black scum off the anvil and the rust off the sacrificial steel, without any disassembly of the setup or removing the vise. Doing this cleaning took about two minutes a day, and in a week I never had to change the solution or add washing soda; all I had to do was top up the water a few times. The entire process, from setup, through daily quick-cleaning, and to the very end took me less than two hours and cost me USD$5 for washing soda and about USD$3 for electricity. I finally ended the process when all bubbling and scum-formation finally ceased. I removed the vise and cleaned it in warm, soapy water then turned the handle. It was freed up! There was plenty more to be done, but electrolysis was a tremendous labor saver. The hardest part of the process was maintaining my patience. In the end, it was, as I said, a win-win-win solution to rust removal during a restoration. I hope you do more of these.
Great video. Repair Shop got pulled from all streaming services in the US, so I came to You Tube. Glad I found you!
Nice work. A big old vice like that will literally last for centuries if it's looked after. It's a damned shame when this stuff is left to rust. I like your approach of blacking it up with oil and using it for its intended purpose. The whole flawless painted finish approach is ridiculous on a piece of engineering equipment.
I love your enthusiasm and energy, Dom. And I get overexcited and put things together in the wrong order too, so you are not alone. Thanks for sharing, and for your honesty 🌞
Love it when a project takes a bit of a turn, you always end up learning so much going places you never thought you were gonna go.
Looks great and saved from the scrap heap. Well done!
That's phenomenal. I have an old vice in the garage that belonged to my grandfather. He's been dead for 35 years and the vice is really rusty but it still operates. Your video has given me the encouragement to clean it up and give it a bit of well deserved TLC after what must be 80 years of use.
It’s an absolute joy to see the vice in full working order now Dom, congratulations 👍🙂
Sorry but I had to stop and comment because I have this exact vice and I have just finished restoring it to it’s former glory… really good strong vice and a bit of British engineering for another 30+ years. I painted it a nice green and then painted the makers mark in white touch up. Really happy with it 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I restored my dad's Paramo No5 vice and bought new jaws made by a guy who sells on ebay. Love the bare metal look on yours.
That is now a thing of beauty, very well done, wonderful watching the process, and how lovely the vice is now. I am sure that a new one would be wildly more expensive than the ?£100 you have spent on parts. Also you have a piece of history to treasure. Awesome.
Anode...cathode....schmathode !. Call them 'lecky bits' and all us non-worthy subscribers will know what you mean !. Loved this video and never apologise for your mistakes as its your down to earth honesty and enthusiasm for your craft that makes watching this channel so enjoyable Dom.
You look just like the guy on the BBC show, "The Repair Shop." I use electrolysis all of the time on my car restoration. Great tool for eliminating rust.
Dom, I was planning to do exactly this to four vises. You kept me from spending a lot of money, time and effort. Dissasemble, degrease, electrolysis, wash, polisher, chemical protection, reassemble!
Thank you, now I know how to do it correctly.
Great video Dom. Electrolysis is fascinating…probably a bit much for the old vice. I think that with connecting the dodgy bits to the wires it could have worked. Not a failure either bud, look at the cracking vice you now have bolted to your workbench!
I look forward to the next video. Thank you
Just love the way you are honest enough to leave the assembly mistake in the final cut, it immediately earned the thumbs up with me in recognition that i would probably made the sane mistake first time around. Really enjoy coming along for the ride and learning with you.
Great video Dom, and thank you. It’s good to see these great pieces of engineering being returned to service. It’s not until you have used a good quality vice do you really appreciate it. Your video clearly shows the Achilles heel of the electrolysis technique is the electrolyte needs to wet the surfaces. Works well though!
So interesting. I have that very same vice, which I inherited from my late father. I am not sure how old it is, but I have known it for almost 60 years myself. Mine has seen a lot of service over the years. It is still in pretty good condition. It is an amazingly strong and useful vice, and, in an odd way, feels like an old friend.
Hey Dom - I helped a neighbour with a garage clear out and won myself two 6/12 volt car battery chargers! Electrolysis here we come! Thinking a trip to the market for rusty tools then see what we can do with them .... maybe a piece of art even!
Nice done. Much better then the restoring films on TH-cam which make everything shine. And a important tip:Never use kitchensalt NaCl because it gives chloride-gas which will poison you.
Appreciate that tip on the salt thank you for that!
It’s nice to restore something and be able to use it after without worrying about chipping the paint, functional is so much more important to me…
2 videos ago, I also restored a rusty vise, but a tiny one! I used a DIY cream (beeswax + linseed oil + turpentine) to protect it from rusting, that seems to be working fine as well, but only time will tell! :) I really like the look of those guys, without paint. Your video was very interesting to watch, thank you!
Think you`ll find you have an aircraft engineers vice there. Nice to see honesty and cockups for a change that we all experience .
Where items have discreet parts eg dynamic jaw, fixed jaw, handle, screw etc. It is always best to place wire connections to each part to ensure they all get 'equal attention'.
I usually precede this by simmering the vice in hot caustic [Lye] solution for half an hour or so to remove grease oil and paint. Then I hit it with the pressure washer and only then move on to electrolysis .... sounds like a real faff to do, but it pays dividends and saves time later.
Love You showing how to bring back the vice back to life Dom. My entire tool kit is from Ebay and car boot sales. George.
A lot of mine are from bootsales too!
I have just cleaned up the inside of my brothers rusty fuel tank for his motorbike using this process, insulated annode through the filler cap. Worked a treat.
That’s clever brilliant!
Dom, I’m not sure if anybody else has mentioned this in the comments but this method only works on ‘line of sight’, so if the vice was always stood on its mounts the underneath would never have the rust removed effectively. I’ve used it to free up stuff for years but you’ve gotta let the anodes and a diodes ‘see’ each other. Great vids btw.
OK. 3days electrolysis work and £100. Result , one super heavyweight vice. Job well done.👍👍👍
Awesome restoration there, love the result and thanks for the tip about coating the raw finish as I have recently restored my late dad's Record No 4 vice which I remember using as a child some 35+ years ago so will be giving that stuff a go 😁👍
It’s brilliant stuff you won’t regret it!
@@DominicChineas And it wasn't a bloody outrage, either !!!!
Cheers. 😉
Dom, science teacher here, remember PANIC (Positive Anode, Negative is Cathode)
Also don't use salt - you'll make chlorine gas which is no fun.
Nice one - I'll use that 👍
That’s brilliant thank you!
Some people use owatrol oil on vintage farm machinery including old grey ferguson tractors.
@@linseyyoung1772 The Chlorine Gas?
I did a quick check and an equivalent vice, Irwin T25 was around 460 quid so I think it was well worth the effort. Great video Dom.👍
....... and is poorly cast in china - best to restore quality old kit every time if you are going to do more than hobby work. Irwin i a sort of 'halfway house'. A vice of the quality of this old Parky will be 750 quid and upwards
A great watch Dom!
Was interested to see how it would turn out.
I used to work in a small electroplating company a few years back, and have a understanding of the process!
Really great rescue! I bought sodium carbonate for laundry purposes. It's often sold as, "Washing Soda". I relate the -ve terminal as cathode and the +ve as anode. That ring completion as suggested by your brother is good because it reduces the accumulated contact resistance of all the daisy-chained crock-clip connections (and that of the wire) as seen by the last anode in the chain, so the furthest is now the one at the opposing end of the tank which now sees half the resistance it saw before (because there are twice the number of current paths to it). This is similar to cathodic protection of boat hulls.
I did a slightly smaller vice same way I did strip vice into bits. I used water and washing soda (the best stuff) as electrolyte set up the anodes with some metal plates in the electrolyte. If you use other steels gases given off can be poisonous. Plain iron steel is what you want hydrogen gas is given off make sure area is vented. I had 2 amps on charger when operating. Worked it for for 6 to 8 hours, cleaned up the setup safe to put down drain agitated with wire brush to loosen off crap, most came off easily. Cleaned up the anodes Back in tank again fresh water and washing soda and go again, did the same again. Three cleanings and spotless. I had to wire brush but was easy. Experts say use distilled water and you will not get black coating, which you have to wire brush off. They say also say out of mix into clean water and clean under water. Done Hammerited blue new jaws and in operation.
Great film as ever, I for one appreciate the 'mistakes' as this is what usually happens to me and at least you take the time to explain and how to rectify them. One question Dom, how do you dispose of the "sludge" from the tank? Is it acceptable to dispose of via household drain? Many thanks in anticipation.
Thank you for the comment and the kind words!
The liquid is fine to go down the drains, if there’s any large chunks of rust or bits you might want to scoop them out and bin them!
Well done Dom (and your bro'). Glad you got it done by using multiple methods, brute force & informed knowledge. Turned out beautifully and for what it cost, will be a really useful tool for many years to come. I hope that you enjoy it every time you put it to good use.
Great to find a vid about this with someone explaining the ins and outs of the process while they restore something. Thanks.
Really glad you did this video! My vice has been waiting to be restored and the extra tips you gave will be really helpful, thanks! 😀👍🏻 *buys more crocodile clips
Brilliant job Dom. Great to see a wonderful piece of British engineering, rescued.👍🏻👏🏻
Thank you very much, glad you enjoyed it
Citric acid works a treat as well with a touch of dish wash liquid to break surface tension.
thanks for the advice, ill give it a go one day!
Hydrogen tends to rise very quickly and is much safer (for want of a better term) to be around than compared to petrol fumes - but still better to be safe than sorry. I like the humour and testing. You have another subscriber. Have a safe and nice day all. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Brilliant video Dom- much better than watching paint dry - The electrolysis helped heaps in getting the vice almost ready to fall apart, with a bit of elbow grease and a big hammer and your brother's help 👌😊 Vice now sorted and ready for action again - looking forward to next week's video 😊
Love it, love it, love it. Great job on the vice and great video. Brought back memories of touring the Record factory in Sheffield in about 1981 and seeing their Disamatic casting line in action.
Thank you for not hitting it with a wire brush! Beautiful Restoration and perfect for the shop. Well done.
Thanks 👍
Terrific. I am amazed that such a rusty vice could be brought back to life.
Your knowledge on all this stuff never fails to impress, great job dom
Just bought a new (bigger) vice which is great but something inside me wishes I had rescued an old one!
Love the black finish
Hey there’s always time! Next time you see one in a bootsale or somewhere, grab it!
I used this method today to clean a metal coolant pipe of my BMW E30. The results amazed me!!!! I how to do it here, thanks. I'm now derusting a big pulley off some old machine. Next the old railway sign frame. Love it!!!
Wonderful restoration. I have tons of tools that I have restored over the years. Mostly small steel hand tools. I have also found that a nice paint job on an old tool looks out of place on a piece of history such as an old tool. I have a fetish for hammers. Thanks to you I can enter the next chapter in my quest for restoring tools that the next generation can enjoy.
Many many thanks.
I had a vise about the same size as yours, given to me from a friend that's so cheap he squeaks. He never would have given it to me had he thought it salvageable.
It resembled a huge chunk of rust.
One day I decided to drop it into my tank and give it a go.
I ran two chargers, each feeding the plates on half the tank, and I kept swapping out the plates as they'd get too bad. Let them dry, hit them with an abrasive disk, down to bare metal, and then use them again.
Anyway, it took about three weeks in the tank. When I pulled it out, everything was cleaned, even in between the parts. I'm surprised that it worked within the slide since I'd have thought it would have worked like a Faraday cage... preventing the electrolysis process from working.
Hey Dom it is so nice seeing you do this and showing your mistakes , well they are not mistakes your learning Top bloke that vice would cost an arm and a leg and worth so much now its usable well done great stuff..older tools are worth there weight in gold.
Found these vids today. Really helpful and vastly more entertaining than the silent types. Thanks.
I’m so glad you think so!! Thanks!
Great job and brought the vice back to a useful life again. Thanks.
Thank you for watching!
Love it, you did the same in The Repair Shop, I just caught up with that episode yesterday!!
Yep, I used the method to clean off parts of a lathe I restored and watched your first video for a tutorial.
All I had was a pair of new style chargers. Of course they have a circuit detecting circuit else they will not turn on. What I then did was trick it out by using a battery in circuit with the whole set up. This worked until the charger shut off when the battery reached full charge.
I achieved 2 hours and that was enough and after I was finished I remembered I had a 3 amp 12 volt power supply that would have been the cat's meow.
Hi Dom Well that is a nice vice & all things worked but in different way.
Well done Dom shows what can be done to rebuild rather than throwing away.
Take care.
Again, Dominic another brilliant video !
I have been experimenting with my setup since your 1st video on the subject, and have now a fairly respectable and efficient system.
I fitted a brewing cask tap to the side of the new tank (upped the size from 2.5 L to 25 L) and can now drain it direct into a bucket without baling. An old plastic coated metal freezer basket holds the job and with rope loops each end means you can lift it out, job and all, without getting rust water over your arms.
The water where I live is hard, so tried soft water from the rain water butt - the current increased by around 50% - so would recommend it if you have this problem.
To get the correct amount of washing soda, I set the tank up to work with a random piece of iron as cathode and measured the voltage between the job and the anodes. I found that an addition of 100 grams of soda in 500mL warm water, added to the tank decreased the load voltage, indicating higher conduction. Jotted down the figures, found the optimum to be 300 - 350 grams of soda to 25 L soft water. Adding more past this did not increase the current enough to justify it.
Next, the croc clip method is too unreliable and inefficient - I found much of the current being lost from them, rather than the job, as evidenced by the bubbles created around them. I made up some wire connections instead by fashioning half inch diameter loops in the end and soldering them. the other end of the (bare) wire goes through that small loop and the big loop goes right around the job, instead of passing current at the one connection point as with the croc clip. Working on an old joiner's vice, I found that 3 wires attached this way cut the job time down to a couple of hours and with a better result - the un-looped part of the wire having the insulation left intact to save losing current to the soda solution. Also, wires can be threaded (ones without the small loop) to reach hidden areas - I found this worked well with a table vice that would not succumb to the regular treatment - after treatment, used a releasing oil with graphite in it: 'Lauto' brand - sadly no longer made - and left it overnight. Following day, got a mil of movement ! Just worked it loose in a few minutes after that with very little effort.
I had already outgrown my little 12V 4 Amp battery charger found on the local tip and made up my own from workshop junk - it gives out 18V at around 11 to 12 Amps - as I did not have spare change for an upgrade. Can give construction details to anyone interested.
No doubt I am still learning, and would appreciate tips from anyone with more experience in this rewarding and fascinating hobby.
That’s really helpful info thank you!
What about the metal staps that are like cable ties ? Don't know if these are mild steel or stainless. Could you put these around whatever the item is then tighten them up with th croc clip attached to the tail that is stickin gout of the solution ?
@@adrianlynch9435 Yes, anything you've got to hand that wraps around the job, rather than just contacting in one place is a great help to the removal process - more area for the current to work from.
@@tiggywinkle1000 I thought about those as you can tighten them up but not enough to snap off the tail as that way you have lots of surface contactwiththe item that is trying to be de-rusted.
I have that almost-identical vise (a Parkinson No.8a, originally painted red). I made a stand for mine out of 70-year-old oak recovered from a farm gate. Well worth the restoration, it's a beast, and your great-great-grandchildren will revere your memory!!
Thanks so much!
I have the same one too! It's massive and still needs a clean up and paint! You can't beat a good old British vice 😁👍
@Steve200TDi Ah, but that's the point - you *can* beat the heck out of it and it bounces back every time 😂😂
@@myharris haha good point!
Great show - pragmatic, honest, perfect! Real TV at last! You rock!
Thanks Dom. I followed your instructions, it worked for me! With a 12volt 3amp computer power brick.
Thank you for letting me know I’m so glad to hear it worked for you!
A wee wire brushing before putting in the bath would save a few hours. 👍 Good thorough explanation, well done.
Great stuff! I've done a bunch of research into electrolysis for rust removal, and tried out a few methods myself, so I think I can clear some stuff up.
- Washing soda keeps the water alkaline, which prevents further etching.
- The chlorides in salt will speed up corrosion even in electrolysis. They can also potentially release chlorine gas.
- Bicarbonate works too, just not quite as well.
- Stainless steel can work as the anode BUT some of the chromium in the stainless will turn into chromium trioxide (CrO3), which is very carcinogenic. The quantities are probably low enough for small parts, but it's better to be safe.
- Carbon electrodes work quite well, and the water doesn't get all rusty. You can keep using the same electrodes and water many times over that way.
- As Paul G already commented, it's better to use a lower current to get into nooks and crannies. The easiest way to control it is lowering voltage. I found that 5V works pretty well. I think most people use 12V battery chargers just because they're easier to find.
It would be nice to find a bunch of old tools like that someone has sitting around. Looks like it would be a fun weekend project fixing em' up.
How great it is Dominic!
To see the result of your experience 😂🎉🎉
Thanks again!!!💪👍👌
Mistakes do happen when you try something 😂
Just inherited my Dad's old Record No.24 vice which is equally rusty on the surface but fortunately not seized up. Thinking of using your electrolysis approach but breaking the vice down into it's constituent parts first to attack the rust on all surfaces. Like the idea of using the Owatrol oil instead of Roundell Blue as well.
I did an old Record carpenters vice that was seized and had been left out for 10- 15 years. Using washing powder and water and a “starter charger”, changing the charger terminal over to different parts got the whole thing turning and all the springs worked perfectly.
Lovely vice. I inherited a vice the same size from my grandfather (and two others) for which I am always thankful. Fishoilene (fish oil) is another good alternative for sealing an iron surface. Takes awhile to dry but it will and does a great job.
I like the alligator clip set up - I've been running plain copper wire and using screw on caps to join the anodes. The clips make more sense!
Nice job Dom. Years ago I worked in a gearbox factory (in the offices) and if the guys had something like that they would drop it into a tank of old automatic transmission fluid for a couple of weeks. That seemed to free up anything! The most difficult part of the operation was to try and forget it and not keep getting it out to fiddle with it. They also had a tank of lanolin which they steeped large metal objects in. That seemed to find its way into all the little crevasses and prevent rust forming.
Diesel works pretty well too. I have a dustbin full of scaffold fittings soaking right now
Brilliant vice restoration Dom .can't wait for the porsche restoration
Great video! Love a good demo of electrochemistry. Your intuitive grasp on electric fields is pretty good. If you want to know more I recomend looking into how old vaccume tubes work (triodes in particular). IMO understanding the interaction of fields will help explain how crevices and details are affected in electrolysis.
PSA: Please don't use salt (NaCl) the electrolysis process can produce chlorine gas. The good electrolytes are sodium bicarbonate, Vinegar, lye (sodium hydroxide), potassium hydroxide, phosphoric acid (found in Coca-Cola), or sulfuric acid (found in some drain cleaners).
Loved that! Did a similar vice restoration myself and know it's a labour of love! Great tip with the Owatrol oil. Shall give that a go next time.
I actually made an electrolysis tub last night and it’s running in my workshop now, but I know it hasn’t worked because after watching you I can see I didn’t connect the wires up right!! I’m going out there now to do it right. Still got a rusty hammer!!!
Great informative video. Nice to see some British heritage preserved. Now bring on the Coffee Rover ! Can’t wait to see this finished.
Another great video. Makes me wonder how many rusty car parts I might be able to clean up this way. I've got some brake calipers that might just go for a dip.
Dom, Superb video. I like your very honest approach. It does show you can clean heavy rust off large pieces of cast iron and steel to good effect. I think Owatrol owes you - I've just bought some for all my old and new tools. I also have a few very old French axe heads I want to salvage. I'm inspired !
Looks great! your enthusiasm fizzes more than electrolysis! Classic English vice & a modern synthetic Owatrol finish - an alkyd oil too 💥 beautiful.
Well worth the cost and effort to restore - a new one would cost a few bob and probably not last anywhere near as long. Nice bit of history :) PS: anyone else been in the shed looking for old rusty stuff to have a go at cleaning it up?
great video , i have very old plumbers stilsons 24 inch , looked fit fr the skip very rusty and ceased, electrolysis tank has made them look like new , wooow
The electrolysis may have been a fail as far as totally removing the rust is concerned but it was a powerful tool in the restoration. Interesting video
Electrolysis only fails when the electrical current cannot get to every part. He should have disassembled everything first.
Nice one Dom. You have shone all, real life experience in this restoration .Thank you.
This was all Real life!
Pauses …. ‘It doesn’t matter’ 😂 I could almost hear the crickets. Keep up the great videos 👍🏻
Haha! Thank you for watching
Brilliant, I love to see old things brought back to life. Watching you videos Dom is like having a good time with your mates.
It's a Parkinson's No.8 good piece of kit I have one and a few other vices 😜 good stuff 👍
I have one of those vises. The original colour of all if not most was a plum colour. Interesting video. Thanks
There were hints of a dark red looking paint, I think your right
I'm loving all your videos. I'd love to see you take electrolysis to the next level and do some electroplating. I'm particularly interested in how to brass plate mild steel.
Thanks Dom... love your vlogs- you remind me of my father-in-law. He was a kind and helpful man who enjoyed making broken things work again too!
Glad your enjoying watching
For my birthday, my daughter made a lovely pyrography plaque for my workshop door ' Grizzly's shed - where all things get fixed ........ eventually'
I love the vise. I personally would have ground, sanded and polished the parts of the dynamic and static jaws that come into contact sliding across each other to smooth out the action. I love the finish you put on it though. Great job and thank you for teaching me something about electrolysis.
It's worth the money for a great old vice. You cant buy a vice half that good now a days. I went through the same thing with my old Wilton 6 inch jaw vice. And it is like a best friend in my shop now..
They are out there, but will likely set you back well north of a grand
For small items I used to make them out of old Nokia phone chargers there great for cleaning up old coins and a like , keep up the vids love em😊
Great restoration Dom, keep um comin Mate & Stay Safe !!!.
Hi Dom I found an ancient leg vice which is in a similar condition to your vice and I've been contemplating how to attack it. I thought that electrolysis would be the way to begin but did not know how to do it. So thanks for your videos. Now where can I get a giant plastic tub .......... Cheers Dom. Great videos.
Japanning is another good "period correct" finish option for tools like this. It's actually quite simple and the results are incredible.
Thank you I’ll look into that
@@DominicChineas it would be cool to see you do a video on at-home zinc chromate plating for some of the hardware on Honest Jon's BMW motorcycle.
Nice one Dom, a fantastic lesson and I love learning, thank you, regards, Chris. 🍻👍👍👍
great video dom! love the honesty! great recommendation for the bare metal protection, added to shopping cart! 👍