So just finished this job. Instead of going through the above mess I just put the car on a jack and used a shop jack to lower the entire K frame on one side exposing the entire alternator (including the 3rd bolt) and not requiring a shop lift. This method only requires removal of strut, disconnect link and brake lines plus. Tensioner requires a pretty firm tug with a cheater bar for at least 30" to loosen serpentine belt, release and belt self tensions. I removed front and back engine cover, accessory belt cover (hidden torx), strut bar, and set aside power steering and expansion reservoir to create some space before dropping the whole thing down. 3 hour job.
Doing this now , thanks for the video. Just wanted to add that there is a plastic cap over the 13mm power wire nut . I might disconnect the power steering lines instead of bend them out , will see Was swearing plenty on this job lol
Just did this on an S80 so a little different and even less room. Dumb job. I just disconnected ball joint and held knee assembly out of the way with a tie strap, took off fender liner for access. Access is too tight to get alternator out with the heat duct on it, at least from what i could tell. I took that off and put it back on once alternator is in the car. Did I mention this is a dumb job? Thanks again for the video, had mine in and out in 4 hrs. Don't go by book time.
In my case I found that the xc90 doesn't like any alternator other than the Bosch. I put in an ac Delco first tryna be cheap and it didn't work so I spent around 650 for Bosch and it worked perfect
@@mechanicdave4899 I used to be that way until I was diagnosed with a nasty neurological disorder. I always loved a mechanical challenge lol, I broke away from Ford and Jeep and bought a 2007 XC90 v8 8 months ago for 6500 bucks mainly because my son is so young and I wanted something safer. So far I have replaced upper and lower intake manifold gaskets and valve cover gaskets because of a massive oil leak... It was leaving an oily river everytime I drove it and I had to top it off everyday until I got the job done. New semi metallic brake pads and slotted drilled rotors, new coilovers, new ball joints, new lower control arms with polyurethane bushings, sway bar end links, passenger side motor mount, top end motor mount, and also bought solid aluminum strut tower brace mounts as well. Just have to do the front and rear hydraulic motor mounts and take care of the sway bar bushings all which require the subframe being lowered but I had held off on that because I don't want to deal with subframe bolts and bushings at the moment lol! This vehicle is such a pain to work on when compared to others... I will admit as dumb as they designed it, it really is a great vehicle! Once I get all the other stuff taken care of I will finally tackle the stupid valve body issue.
Pretty poor design to be honest and dangerous too. Just happened to me while I was driving and various systems starting shutting down one after another until eventually the car locked me out and went dead. I'm not sure what the cause is on the premature failure of the altenator but it looks like a pain in the ass that I'm going to have to tackle unfortunately.
Check the windshield washer T on the passenger's side. It's common for them to leak, and the washer fluid floods right down to the alternator. Another problem is the valve cover gasket leaking oil on them.
So just finished this job. Instead of going through the above mess I just put the car on a jack and used a shop jack to lower the entire K frame on one side exposing the entire alternator (including the 3rd bolt) and not requiring a shop lift. This method only requires removal of strut, disconnect link and brake lines plus. Tensioner requires a pretty firm tug with a cheater bar for at least 30" to loosen serpentine belt, release and belt self tensions. I removed front and back engine cover, accessory belt cover (hidden torx), strut bar, and set aside power steering and expansion reservoir to create some space before dropping the whole thing down. 3 hour job.
Doing this now , thanks for the video. Just wanted to add that there is a plastic cap over the 13mm power wire nut .
I might disconnect the power steering lines instead of bend them out , will see
Was swearing plenty on this job lol
Dave thanks for your video it was very helpful
Reg's Auto Shoppe glad I could help bud!
Just did this on an S80 so a little different and even less room. Dumb job. I just disconnected ball joint and held knee assembly out of the way with a tie strap, took off fender liner for access. Access is too tight to get alternator out with the heat duct on it, at least from what i could tell. I took that off and put it back on once alternator is in the car. Did I mention this is a dumb job?
Thanks again for the video, had mine in and out in 4 hrs. Don't go by book time.
Starting on it now. Thank You!
You got this man!!
WOW, I can forget me doing that job!
Why do they make it so hard?
In my case I found that the xc90 doesn't like any alternator other than the Bosch. I put in an ac Delco first tryna be cheap and it didn't work so I spent around 650 for Bosch and it worked perfect
I always go Oem for the harder jobs.
How much can the price of this work in this car be worth?
any vid on 2006 xc70 awd 2.5L
Dang, what a pain in the butt job!
Clint Griffin it sucked man. I only make videos of jobs that embrace the suck lol
@@mechanicdave4899 I used to be that way until I was diagnosed with a nasty neurological disorder. I always loved a mechanical challenge lol, I broke away from Ford and Jeep and bought a 2007 XC90 v8 8 months ago for 6500 bucks mainly because my son is so young and I wanted something safer. So far I have replaced upper and lower intake manifold gaskets and valve cover gaskets because of a massive oil leak... It was leaving an oily river everytime I drove it and I had to top it off everyday until I got the job done. New semi metallic brake pads and slotted drilled rotors, new coilovers, new ball joints, new lower control arms with polyurethane bushings, sway bar end links, passenger side motor mount, top end motor mount, and also bought solid aluminum strut tower brace mounts as well. Just have to do the front and rear hydraulic motor mounts and take care of the sway bar bushings all which require the subframe being lowered but I had held off on that because I don't want to deal with subframe bolts and bushings at the moment lol! This vehicle is such a pain to work on when compared to others... I will admit as dumb as they designed it, it really is a great vehicle! Once I get all the other stuff taken care of I will finally tackle the stupid valve body issue.
Is that a v8 thankyou?
@@Khang-wz2vl yes sir! V8
this look hard because he did it wrong dont use this video for your V8 XC90 altenator replacement reference
Yeah I found a much better method. We learn as time goes on ;)
What was the much better method !!
@@isaiahgomez7786 following
Pretty poor design to be honest and dangerous too. Just happened to me while I was driving and various systems starting shutting down one after another until eventually the car locked me out and went dead. I'm not sure what the cause is on the premature failure of the altenator but it looks like a pain in the ass that I'm going to have to tackle unfortunately.
Check the windshield washer T on the passenger's side. It's common for them to leak, and the washer fluid floods right down to the alternator. Another problem is the valve cover gasket leaking oil on them.
It's a poor design but not dangerous. All ICE cars have alternators and all alternators will die at some point.
Ohhhh no