@@diegoolivera6468 before nitrolux, i use VP, i want to use VP again. With nitrolux i broke my engine bearing twice, forgot to add after run oil after racing 😪
Nice Brian, Congrats! That's a great buggy with lots of room to bash, or race. Really happy to hear you've got a transmitter in your hands again, and thanks for sharing. If you need any help, let me know. -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Thank you , I appreciate it! Really enjoy your video series.. had a Kyosho MP 7.5 Kanai edition 2, beast buggy back in the day. The losi eight rtr is nice but like your Kyosho, needs lots of upgrades. Thanks again
@@CaliCoastRCFPV I wish I still had my Kanai 2.. get it going man, have some fun. I've been out of this for over 10 years, watched this video series and inspired me to get into it again. Good luck!
Awesome! You took my servo suggestion! If this wasn’t an Amain/ProTek build, I’d tell ya to put KST servos in. I use them in all my racecars. Check em out, they’re very good!!! I don’t remember if I’ve suggested this yet, but you really should switch ALL of the screws with lightweight titanium screws and switch all the metal shims/washers with aluminum ones, and aluminum nylock nuts as well. Shorten up the wiring too. Extra wire is unnecessary weight, messy, and more likely to cause an issue. A carbon fiber radio tray, carbon fiber shock towers, etc... lightweight titanium turnbuckles/camber links, titanium shock standoffs, lexan wing, lighter weight and better flowing body... all of these things added up shave a lot of weight, resulting in more time between fuel stops, and better overall performance. An engine upgrade will certainly give that mp9rs a boost! It’ll be time to replace all the bearings soon, so upgrade those all at once, not individually. I rebuild all my dirt cars after almost every race. Hope this helps and I’ll see y’all at the track! -E
The carbon and titanium bits would drop a lot of weight but can be quite pricey. I like the wire shortening idea, that can be done on the cheap and it does help. -Brett
Love all the videos on this channel but this mini series is my favourite. great for us newer guys in the hobby making the transition from just bashing to also racing. would love to see some other builds in the future? maybe some 10th scale crawlers, buggies, onroad whatever it is love the tips and tricks on how other people set their cars up and where you can save money setting up the car and where you should invest the money great stuff!
Hey Brett, Change the shock pistons to KYOIF347-138 for front and rear. The shock oil should be around 45-ish front and 32.5-ish rear. Also with those servos, I would also run KYOIFW450, it makes the steering more consistent and won't flex compared to the stock plastic one.
This series of videos has lit my nitro cravings and landed me back into RC land. My friends and I have dusted off and tuned up two of the backyard tracks. The MP9 TKI4 arrived from aMain and has not disappointed. Cool little project. Dont mind taking the long route as far as upgrades. Had a slight problem with the ride height tabs on the chassis...they flexed as the set screw was wound in.(Difficult to get the + pos. rake cured) Super Bummed. I'll try to develop a cure, if not the HARD chassis will be on its way. Thanks again for your time covering this vehicle and all the other videos you and your team have done.
"Had a slight problem with the ride height tabs on the chassis...they flexed as the set screw was wound in." Those are your droop screws and are used to help control the amount of weight shift during acceleration and deceleration for cornering, not for ride height. Maxing those out for ride height would screw up the vehicle's ability to handle correctly. Ride height is set from the shock collar (or shock spacers if not using a threaded body shock).
no problem Brett! we all make mistakes, would have been exciting to see whether it really does free up power with the replacement back plate. Ive been waiting for this video too long, dont stop this series!!!!!!!!!!!
True, would it be enough extra power to notice a difference? I'm thinking I'd rather invest in a new engine over any other parts for this engine. Maybe shelf this engine with the pull-start, keep it as a basher engine when the mood strikes right. -Brett
when the backplate is installed you will get 1000-3000 more rpms out of that engine due to removing the weight of that one way bearing off of the crankshaft.
It is true that those high end servos outlast the chassis my Futaba high voltage servo has outlasted 3 chassis so far it’s in its 4th now and still works great
I like the servos you chose, The specs are similar to my JX hv bls7132. They have 454 oz-in and 0.7 sec transit, they were 65 each. Also black aluminum case. Great video bro!
Don’t know if your up to suggestions but my friend had that rtr and I took off the pull start removed the original backplate filled the hole in the backplate wit rtv black permeatex and it ran like a champ works amazing takes 20 minutes.
Why didn't you mount the transponder in the place made for it on the radio tray area, then mount the switch next to it? It all fits if done right. Can't wait till you bend a front shock tower (and you will), and see what you replace them both (front and rear) with. Keep up the great videos!
Great servos! If the series was a budget upgrade I would also recommend savox 1270s not quite as fast. I've found personally that a fast servo is not always the best choice in a throttle. Because it can react a lil faster that the intake.
when you install that backplate you will gain 1000-3000 rpms due to losing the weight of the one way bearing in the pullstart . now the crank can spin faster due to less weight on it
This older video discuss setting up servo endpoints which might help: th-cam.com/video/900b22pVKRE/w-d-xo.html Not seeing anything other than that. I can recommend, that you turn your transmitter trim dials back to center point, as well with any other servo adjustments made in the transmitter. Then when installing servos, ensure the spline is centered before you secure servo horn. Then when you turn the system on, adjust servo trims in the transmitter. Setting up the endpoints is really important to ensure the servo does not prematurely burn out. -Brett
Hi. I want to change the servos for high voltage servos. But I have the transmitter and receiver that comes with the rtr kit. The receiver I think is 4.8 to 6v. Is there another receiver compatible with that transmitter that supports more than 6v or will I have to change both? Thank you.
No, I don't believe they have any other receivers that can run on high voltage. Although, if you are not using a LiPo, any other receiver battery will provide a lower voltage which would be ok for your receiver. But if you do want that 8.4V LiPo High Voltage, I think you'll need a more compatible transmitter and receiver system. Here are some great systems that would work: Sanwa MT-S: www.amainhobbies.com/sanwa-airtronics-mts-fh4-fh3-4channel-2.4ghz-telemetry-radio-system-snw101a31973a/p500043 Futaba 4PM: www.amainhobbies.com/futaba-4pm-4channel-2.4ghz-tfhss-radio-system-w-r304sb-receiver-fut01004388-3/p897293 Spektrum DX5 Rugged: www.amainhobbies.com/spektrum-rc-dx5-rugged-5channel-dsmr-surface-radio-w-sr515-receiver-spm5200/p868683 Spektrum DX5C: www.amainhobbies.com/spektrum-rc-dx5c-5channel-dsmr-surface-radio-w-sr6100at-receiver-spm5120/p1049208 If you have any other questions, let me know. -Brett
So to clarify, I just bought the MP9 Tki4, and want to upgrade to the protek 130t? And the lipo used in your build. Do I have to upgrade my stock transmitter and receiver? Thanks want to clarify before I order.
Hi guys, I have a question. I'm building a nitro buggy 1/8 scale (losi 8ight 2.0). Does the throttle servo need to be as tough and have the same torque as the steering servo? Also, do all servos work with a non Lipo battery on the car? TIA
Yes with that throttle servo because when you hold the breaks on, the servo is working overtime to hold it's position against the mechanical breaks. Plus inside a nitro car is a hot environment so the servo gets hot anyways, and holding breaks adds to it. We also recommend aluminum case servos in nitro vehicles to help transfer that heat away. -Brett
For non LiPo use, or 6V operation, pretty much every standard sized r/c surface servo can accept 6V. It's only for LiPo use that you need "High Voltage," or HV Servos. -Brett
Wish we had better information for you, but our system only shows the buggy being on backorder from Kyosho. I'd recommend checking back in a few weeks, or hitting the notification option on the product page (under the red Backorder button). With this, the system will email you when we restock more buggies. -Brett
Yeah, these go on the back of the chassis. Once they wear out, you just replace it with a new one. ---> www.amainhobbies.com/de-racing-xd-extreme-duty-rear-skid-plates-3-kyosho-mp9-der-210-k/p172286 -Brett
When you remove the pull start assembly something needs to take it's place to seal that spot on the engine. Since the backplate is the same size/shape as the pull start assembly, you replace one with the other. It's like taking out a window and boarding it up. -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies the nut size is 3mm, so I am looking for a 3mm hand nut driver. It’s the same 3mm found on all the kyoshos like the ones in the front upper shock nuts.
Servos are not usually labeled as Throttle or Steering servos, BUT, it is best to use a torque servo for the throttle/braking and speed servo for steering. The holding power required for nitro brakes can be very intensive and is best served by a servo with plenty of torque. For steering you need torque too, but speed for fast reactions and responsiveness is very important for racing. Most high voltage servos are so fast and powerful these days, you can use most of them for either location. I'd recommend an all aluminum case servo for throttle to help dissipate the heat; not as important for steering but it's also good. -Brett
From going out and running it mainly. After our last race, we did two qualifiers and a main, plus let people drive the car, and at the end of the night, the battery voltage was 4.0V. I keep a cell checker handy to test the remaining voltage. From these tests, I know the battery will run several hours of use. -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies which version did I buy? I thought they all are the same? The caps looks aluminum but the rest looks plastic. Will I need to change them before racing on a higher level? If so which shocks should I buy? Thanks!
@@AMain_Hobbies also since it's a different version does that mean it will preform differently? That model almost cost me $600 lol I've been following your converting videos for this model and am ready to start the process but want to make sure I didn't get ripped off, man I really hope not! Lol I got it off Amazon which a hobby shop was selling it and it priced same everywhere else I searched.
Hey Brett loving this series. Great build. Nothing you don’t need and everything to make it run better. Here’s a question for you. I picked up a used Kyosho Inferno Neo 3.0 and it has the KE21SP engine in it. I can’t get it started. I checked glow plug, fuel, air, linkage and carb opening. What is the stock needle settings for this engines carb? I can’t find those specs anywhere. I have the manual but all Kyosho states is the needles are set up from factory for easy break in. I don’t know those settings though. Engine seems to have good pop to it good compression. Mabey my fuel is too old I don’t know. (It’s about a year old never opened 30% nitro). I’d like to get it back to the break in carb settings though
Man, that's tough to get that info. I searched around as well, without luck. The manual for our buggy said the same thing about the carb settings, nothing specific, only that it was preset. When you remove the glow plug, it burns red in your igniter? If the fuel was stored in a dry, cool place, it should be ok. On our engine, the top end needle is about 1.7 turns open, when I closed it all the way to find out. Your carb settings are probably different though. Maybe try closing the needle and count each half turn until it stops at it's closed position. Then open the needle up, counting each half turn, to return it. And maybe open it another full turn from there. It would run quite richer after that. Maybe do the same with the low speed needle too. -Brett
AMain Hobbies Hey Brett thanks for the reply and thanks for searching for the info and checking your own needle settings. I found something saying the hsn should be 3.5 turns so I’ll try around there. I checked the glow plug pulled out and it glows hot! I decided to set it up for my starter box so I pulled the engine and lined everything up with the flywheel. I changed the fuel tubing to new also. The engine is free and has compression so I’ll give it another try tomorrow. If I can’t get it tomorrow with the starter box I’ll assume it’s carb settings too far off or the fuel. I’m actually going to try my old HPI Hellfire ss tomorrow to on the same fuel it has a track star .28. See if the nitro fuel will run that truck. I’ll let you know what I find out hopefully you see this message and check back
I run low voltage servos and a life pack in both my nitro cars. Knock on wood I have yet to have a servo burn out or even strip, and swapping cars with team mates they don't notice a difference in my car and I don't notice the high voltage servos in their car.
I’m excited for part 6! I imagine thicker shock towers and 17.5 caster blocks are in that buggy’s future. Lastly does Amain carry the hardware that was used for the servos? Thanks!
Since the servos were an expensive investment, the front tower and caster blocks are going to sit on the back burner, maybe until they break. They currently work fine you know, so maybe just use them until they break, then upgrade to the kit version tower and CNC caster blocks. -Brett
Great Serie! Keep working. Suggestions make one serie about conversion nitro 1/8 buggy to Electric. And one serie about chassis setup for better results om race.
Do you really need a servo that is so good on the throttle and brake as the steering? Surely a cheaper servo would be ok on throttle/ brake as it does get half the abuse.
If the track requires a lot of braking, a 45min main can put a lot of stress on the T/B servo. Having seen a myself a runaway due to that servo burning out while the car was full throttle, i'd always advise on a quality servo as a safety measure.
Like IgnoramusMare said, the high quality Throttle servo is for the braking. Opening the engine carburetor to accelerate is nearly effortless on the servo, but applying brakes takes a lot of power to push against the force of the brakes, and often you hold the servo in that position while holding the brakes down. So it's really strenuous on the servo motor and generates a lot of heat. A aluminum case servo will help dissipate the heat, but having lots of torque is also recommended. -Brett
Good question. Yes, upgrading to the thicker race version front shock tower is a great upgrade, as suggested by CJ in Part 4; but... we're not going to upgrade it until the current one breaks or bends, just to put upgrade money in other areas, like the servos. -Brett
I love watching you do these. You were having WAY too much fun with the steering servo, walking the car across the table. I had to pause the video for a few seconds, I was laughing so hard.🤣😂 Oh, and I gave you and AMain a shout out in my latest video, something I do not do for companies. Check it out at the end of this video: th-cam.com/video/fzr-4njOJ_8/w-d-xo.html You just keep on being you and make me smile.😊😍
Hey Tidus. I think our team has something planned for FB, but John Ash from the USA won the SSD Trail King. Sorry you didn't win man, but thanks for signing up. -Brett
Cool series for the beginner 1/8 guys to help them upgrade as their skills progress.
I hope this series never end, nice servos ! don't forget to add some after run oil for your engine
does your engine need it? I just burn out the rest of the fuel and had never rust. Even after one year no rust
@@diegoolivera6468 yes my engine need it, it's depends on what brand of fuel you are running. for me I'm running Nitrolux 25%
@@cococockatoo9896 Im currently running PSR Racing fuel its from germany i think it's incredibly good . 25%
@@diegoolivera6468 before nitrolux, i use VP, i want to use VP again. With nitrolux i broke my engine bearing twice, forgot to add after run oil after racing 😪
@@cococockatoo9896 Are these Fuels low on Oil ? PsR fuel has 12% oil
Great video.. u inspired me to get back into this hobby after a 10 year hiatus. Thanks.... Bought Losi eight rtr
Nice Brian, Congrats! That's a great buggy with lots of room to bash, or race. Really happy to hear you've got a transmitter in your hands again, and thanks for sharing. If you need any help, let me know.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Thank you , I appreciate it! Really enjoy your video series.. had a Kyosho MP 7.5 Kanai edition 2, beast buggy back in the day. The losi eight rtr is nice but like your Kyosho, needs lots of upgrades. Thanks again
@@brianwright2008 I still have my Kanai 2. im thinking i need to get it going again!
@@CaliCoastRCFPV I wish I still had my Kanai 2.. get it going man, have some fun. I've been out of this for over 10 years, watched this video series and inspired me to get into it again. Good luck!
Protek servos are awesome ,I've been abusing the 130ss' for over 2 years in 3 different buggies and still performing perfectly
I believe it. They take a beating.
-Brett
This is an awesome set of videos! I just ordered this rtr kyosho and i cant wait to set it up to rip a track! Thanks guys!
That's great! Let us know if you need any help.
-Brett
It's funny tou said balloons, because that's what I used to use on my shocks. Small balloons. Cheap and easy to get a huge baggie of em!
Awesome! You took my servo suggestion! If this wasn’t an Amain/ProTek build, I’d tell ya to put KST servos in. I use them in all my racecars. Check em out, they’re very good!!! I don’t remember if I’ve suggested this yet, but you really should switch ALL of the screws with lightweight titanium screws and switch all the metal shims/washers with aluminum ones, and aluminum nylock nuts as well. Shorten up the wiring too. Extra wire is unnecessary weight, messy, and more likely to cause an issue. A carbon fiber radio tray, carbon fiber shock towers, etc... lightweight titanium turnbuckles/camber links, titanium shock standoffs, lexan wing, lighter weight and better flowing body... all of these things added up shave a lot of weight, resulting in more time between fuel stops, and better overall performance. An engine upgrade will certainly give that mp9rs a boost! It’ll be time to replace all the bearings soon, so upgrade those all at once, not individually. I rebuild all my dirt cars after almost every race. Hope this helps and I’ll see y’all at the track!
-E
The carbon and titanium bits would drop a lot of weight but can be quite pricey. I like the wire shortening idea, that can be done on the cheap and it does help.
-Brett
Love all the videos on this channel but this mini series is my favourite. great for us newer guys in the hobby making the transition from just bashing to also racing. would love to see some other builds in the future? maybe some 10th scale crawlers, buggies, onroad whatever it is love the tips and tricks on how other people set their cars up and where you can save money setting up the car and where you should invest the money great stuff!
Removing the pull starter from my RTR was the best thing I ever did, it makes getting the body on so much easier lol
Brett, your the best! I love your videos! Fun and informative.
Futaba for life lol, good job on the race
Hey Brett,
Change the shock pistons to KYOIF347-138 for front and rear. The shock oil should be around 45-ish front and 32.5-ish rear. Also with those servos, I would also run KYOIFW450, it makes the steering more consistent and won't flex compared to the stock plastic one.
This series of videos has lit my nitro cravings and landed me back into RC land. My friends and I have dusted off and tuned up two of the backyard tracks.
The MP9 TKI4 arrived from aMain and has not disappointed. Cool little project. Dont mind taking the long route as far as upgrades. Had a slight problem with the ride height tabs on the chassis...they flexed as the set screw was wound in.(Difficult to get the + pos. rake cured) Super Bummed. I'll try to develop a cure, if not the HARD chassis will be on its way.
Thanks again for your time covering this vehicle and all the other videos you and your team have done.
"Had a slight problem with the ride height tabs on the chassis...they flexed as the set screw was wound in."
Those are your droop screws and are used to help control the amount of weight shift during acceleration and deceleration for cornering, not for ride height. Maxing those out for ride height would screw up the vehicle's ability to handle correctly. Ride height is set from the shock collar (or shock spacers if not using a threaded body shock).
Mine to I’m
Here looking for new engine for my buggy just going to get the ke21sp just dno what flywheel and clutch shoes to use and bell ?
Now switch the Spektrum out to a Sanwa 😄.
Great Vid
HA!
i agree. Spektrum is glitchy
Sanwa is bulletproof
Futaba.
@@keithrx3c isnt as good as sanwa
no problem Brett! we all make mistakes, would have been exciting to see whether it really does free up power with the replacement back plate.
Ive been waiting for this video too long, dont stop this series!!!!!!!!!!!
True, would it be enough extra power to notice a difference? I'm thinking I'd rather invest in a new engine over any other parts for this engine. Maybe shelf this engine with the pull-start, keep it as a basher engine when the mood strikes right.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Brett, now that sounds like an upgrade path!!!!
love the content, KEEP NITRO ALIVE!
DYNE 1506 back-plate fits this engine perfectly. Love your vids Dude, Thank you!
when the backplate is installed you will get 1000-3000 more rpms out of that engine due to removing the weight of that one way bearing off of the crankshaft.
It is true that those high end servos outlast the chassis my Futaba high voltage servo has outlasted 3 chassis so far it’s in its 4th now and still works great
Wow, that's great. It pays to buy good electronics.
-Brett
AMain Hobbies yes it definitely does
A good upgrade would be to get the TKI3 wc front arms. They have a webbed design like the TKI4 which adds durability. The part number is IF493
Good tip Ben! Thanks.
-Brett
I like the servos you chose, The specs are similar to my JX hv bls7132. They have 454 oz-in and 0.7 sec transit, they were 65 each. Also black aluminum case. Great video bro!
Great servo choice, I have the 170sbl's I love them!!! never a problem
The backplate for the KE21SP to remove the pull start is Kyosho part# 74031-14
Man that's the quickest servo I've seen xD
I just wish it's under $80.
Don’t know if your up to suggestions but my friend had that rtr and I took off the pull start removed the original backplate filled the hole in the backplate wit rtv black permeatex and it ran like a champ works amazing takes 20 minutes.
need to get a bolt kit together im going to buy one this week hate Philips screws
Can't wait to see what's upgraded next in part 6
Love that servo-walk!!!😂😂😂
I expect a least a heat win with those fancy new servos!
Why didn't you mount the transponder in the place made for it on the radio tray area, then mount the switch next to it? It all fits if done right. Can't wait till you bend a front shock tower (and you will), and see what you replace them both (front and rear) with. Keep up the great videos!
Epic ! I really want one of these buggies
The pull starter on the KE motors doesn't have a one way bearing on the pull start and doesn't drain any power from the motor by having it on there
Great. That's good news. The engine still seems pretty peppy with the pull-start installed.
-Brett
Great video as usual!!! Lookong forward to episode 6
Great servos! If the series was a budget upgrade I would also recommend savox 1270s not quite as fast. I've found personally that a fast servo is not always the best choice in a throttle. Because it can react a lil faster that the intake.
More nitro series please and bring back this intro music.
Great Series!
Thanks Much!
when you install that backplate you will gain 1000-3000 rpms due to losing the weight of the one way bearing in the pullstart . now the crank can spin faster due to less weight on it
Hi, do you have a tutorial on how to set up the transmitter when installing servos? Cheers and good series!
This older video discuss setting up servo endpoints which might help: th-cam.com/video/900b22pVKRE/w-d-xo.html
Not seeing anything other than that. I can recommend, that you turn your transmitter trim dials back to center point, as well with any other servo adjustments made in the transmitter. Then when installing servos, ensure the spline is centered before you secure servo horn. Then when you turn the system on, adjust servo trims in the transmitter. Setting up the endpoints is really important to ensure the servo does not prematurely burn out.
-Brett
Thanks for the video, can I still run the 155t with my 6.6v LiFe battery?? Inferno neo 3.0
Are you going to get it ready for another race
Input! Johnny 5 is alive....
Hi. I want to change the servos for high voltage servos. But I have the transmitter and receiver that comes with the rtr kit. The receiver I think is 4.8 to 6v. Is there another receiver compatible with that transmitter that supports more than 6v or will I have to change both? Thank you.
No, I don't believe they have any other receivers that can run on high voltage. Although, if you are not using a LiPo, any other receiver battery will provide a lower voltage which would be ok for your receiver. But if you do want that 8.4V LiPo High Voltage, I think you'll need a more compatible transmitter and receiver system.
Here are some great systems that would work:
Sanwa MT-S: www.amainhobbies.com/sanwa-airtronics-mts-fh4-fh3-4channel-2.4ghz-telemetry-radio-system-snw101a31973a/p500043
Futaba 4PM: www.amainhobbies.com/futaba-4pm-4channel-2.4ghz-tfhss-radio-system-w-r304sb-receiver-fut01004388-3/p897293
Spektrum DX5 Rugged: www.amainhobbies.com/spektrum-rc-dx5-rugged-5channel-dsmr-surface-radio-w-sr515-receiver-spm5200/p868683
Spektrum DX5C: www.amainhobbies.com/spektrum-rc-dx5c-5channel-dsmr-surface-radio-w-sr6100at-receiver-spm5120/p1049208
If you have any other questions, let me know.
-Brett
So to clarify, I just bought the MP9 Tki4, and want to upgrade to the protek 130t? And the lipo used in your build. Do I have to upgrade my stock transmitter and receiver? Thanks want to clarify before I order.
You could use balloon tubes for shock boots :)
I hate those shock boots. Wondering if the accordion-style are any better. They should fit as well. (KYOIF346-08).
Top name brand using Philip screws? I know its rtr but still
Hey Brad, will I be able to use this servo on my Kyosho inferno neo st 3.0?
Yes, you bet. The 155T's will fit in just about any 1/8 buggy or truggy. Good servo choice.
-Brett
props to CJ
I have followed this series since part one, and I want to get an MP9 now. How much have you put into this project?
Good question. I'd have to make a list of all the items. That's a great idea for the next video.
-Brett
can you run these servos with a 2s lipo which fully charged is 8.4v?
Yes, they are High Voltage compatible.
-Brett
Hi guys, I have a question. I'm building a nitro buggy 1/8 scale (losi 8ight 2.0). Does the throttle servo need to be as tough and have the same torque as the steering servo? Also, do all servos work with a non Lipo battery on the car? TIA
Yes with that throttle servo because when you hold the breaks on, the servo is working overtime to hold it's position against the mechanical breaks. Plus inside a nitro car is a hot environment so the servo gets hot anyways, and holding breaks adds to it. We also recommend aluminum case servos in nitro vehicles to help transfer that heat away.
-Brett
For non LiPo use, or 6V operation, pretty much every standard sized r/c surface servo can accept 6V. It's only for LiPo use that you need "High Voltage," or HV Servos.
-Brett
sweet ! those servos are looking good..but i can't afford it..i use savox almost a 100 each
I started with an rb6.6 rtr and the chassis was of far lesser quality than the kit. Is the chassis on the mp9 rtr same as kit?
No, it's made specific for the RTR. It's probably slightly thinner than the kit chassis, but it's held up well during our use.
-Brett
When will this be back in stock, saw the whole series and I want one already. Lol.
Wish we had better information for you, but our system only shows the buggy being on backorder from Kyosho. I'd recommend checking back in a few weeks, or hitting the notification option on the product page (under the red Backorder button). With this, the system will email you when we restock more buggies.
-Brett
what did you guys do with the car after the series was over?
We have it here in our video room. We'll do something with it.
-Brett
Hey A main. I have this rtr and is there a chassis brace or guards that protect against that chassis scraping?
Yeah, these go on the back of the chassis. Once they wear out, you just replace it with a new one. ---> www.amainhobbies.com/de-racing-xd-extreme-duty-rear-skid-plates-3-kyosho-mp9-der-210-k/p172286
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Thanks Bret! Just ordered them and found a front skid plate as well. You guys rock!
@@IansRcFun Awh! I didn't see that; good find!
-Brett
Why would you put a backplate under the pull start?
When you remove the pull start assembly something needs to take it's place to seal that spot on the engine. Since the backplate is the same size/shape as the pull start assembly, you replace one with the other. It's like taking out a window and boarding it up.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies oh yeah I get that. It sounded like putting a plate under as in engine>plate>pull stater back on 😂
@@AMain_HobbiesWhy is there a backplate that goes underneath the pull start? The wrong one you mentioned? Is that piece already on there stock?
Holy shit that servo
Help I am trying to find a 3mm nut driver for my kyosho mp9 Tki4 Any ideas thanks
Is the nut size 3mm, or you want a 3mm hex size?
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies the nut size is 3mm, so I am looking for a 3mm hand nut driver. It’s the same 3mm found on all the kyoshos like the ones in the front upper shock nuts.
Strong servos!
Dont forget the knuckle bushing screws need loctite
Should put a new exhaust pipe on the engine. Should liven it up and not have to worry about the pipe popping off the header after a decent hit.
Are steering servos different to throttle ones? If so how?
Servos are not usually labeled as Throttle or Steering servos, BUT, it is best to use a torque servo for the throttle/braking and speed servo for steering. The holding power required for nitro brakes can be very intensive and is best served by a servo with plenty of torque. For steering you need torque too, but speed for fast reactions and responsiveness is very important for racing. Most high voltage servos are so fast and powerful these days, you can use most of them for either location. I'd recommend an all aluminum case servo for throttle to help dissipate the heat; not as important for steering but it's also good.
-Brett
How do u know how long the receiver battery will last, to avoid runaways, might be a video on its own.
From going out and running it mainly. After our last race, we did two qualifiers and a main, plus let people drive the car, and at the end of the night, the battery voltage was 4.0V. I keep a cell checker handy to test the remaining voltage. From these tests, I know the battery will run several hours of use.
-Brett
Put in a racing Engine
hey dude what shocks do you have on there? the one that came with mine doesnt have what you have on your car?
Those are the shocks included with the car. Maybe you have a different version of the MP9 Readyset, there have been a few.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies which version did I buy? I thought they all are the same? The caps looks aluminum but the rest looks plastic. Will I need to change them before racing on a higher level? If so which shocks should I buy? Thanks!
@@AMain_Hobbies also since it's a different version does that mean it will preform differently? That model almost cost me $600 lol I've been following your converting videos for this model and am ready to start the process but want to make sure I didn't get ripped off, man I really hope not! Lol I got it off Amazon which a hobby shop was selling it and it priced same everywhere else I searched.
@@rcbugzy7922 Do you know what model it is?
-Brett
The model should have been listed on the product page. Maybe go back and look at your order history to find out.
-Brett
So I’ve bought 170tbl and 170sbl from y’all and neither came with the aluminum servo horn
Show. Muito bom 👍🏻
Hey Brett loving this series. Great build. Nothing you don’t need and everything to make it run better. Here’s a question for you. I picked up a used Kyosho Inferno Neo 3.0 and it has the KE21SP engine in it. I can’t get it started. I checked glow plug, fuel, air, linkage and carb opening. What is the stock needle settings for this engines carb? I can’t find those specs anywhere. I have the manual but all Kyosho states is the needles are set up from factory for easy break in. I don’t know those settings though. Engine seems to have good pop to it good compression. Mabey my fuel is too old I don’t know. (It’s about a year old never opened 30% nitro). I’d like to get it back to the break in carb settings though
Man, that's tough to get that info. I searched around as well, without luck. The manual for our buggy said the same thing about the carb settings, nothing specific, only that it was preset. When you remove the glow plug, it burns red in your igniter? If the fuel was stored in a dry, cool place, it should be ok. On our engine, the top end needle is about 1.7 turns open, when I closed it all the way to find out. Your carb settings are probably different though. Maybe try closing the needle and count each half turn until it stops at it's closed position. Then open the needle up, counting each half turn, to return it. And maybe open it another full turn from there. It would run quite richer after that. Maybe do the same with the low speed needle too.
-Brett
AMain Hobbies Hey Brett thanks for the reply and thanks for searching for the info and checking your own needle settings. I found something saying the hsn should be 3.5 turns so I’ll try around there. I checked the glow plug pulled out and it glows hot! I decided to set it up for my starter box so I pulled the engine and lined everything up with the flywheel. I changed the fuel tubing to new also. The engine is free and has compression so I’ll give it another try tomorrow. If I can’t get it tomorrow with the starter box I’ll assume it’s carb settings too far off or the fuel. I’m actually going to try my old HPI Hellfire ss tomorrow to on the same fuel it has a track star .28. See if the nitro fuel will run that truck. I’ll let you know what I find out hopefully you see this message and check back
I run low voltage servos and a life pack in both my nitro cars. Knock on wood I have yet to have a servo burn out or even strip, and swapping cars with team mates they don't notice a difference in my car and I don't notice the high voltage servos in their car.
I seen guys cut the fingers off of rubber gloves n make shock boots with them
Awe, that's clever.
-Brett
I’m excited for part 6! I imagine thicker shock towers and 17.5 caster blocks are in that buggy’s future. Lastly does Amain carry the hardware that was used for the servos? Thanks!
Since the servos were an expensive investment, the front tower and caster blocks are going to sit on the back burner, maybe until they break. They currently work fine you know, so maybe just use them until they break, then upgrade to the kit version tower and CNC caster blocks.
-Brett
Great Serie! Keep working. Suggestions make one serie about conversion nitro 1/8 buggy to Electric. And one serie about chassis setup for better results om race.
Do you really need a servo that is so good on the throttle and brake as the steering? Surely a cheaper servo would be ok on throttle/ brake as it does get half the abuse.
If the track requires a lot of braking, a 45min main can put a lot of stress on the T/B servo. Having seen a myself a runaway due to that servo burning out while the car was full throttle, i'd always advise on a quality servo as a safety measure.
Like IgnoramusMare said, the high quality Throttle servo is for the braking. Opening the engine carburetor to accelerate is nearly effortless on the servo, but applying brakes takes a lot of power to push against the force of the brakes, and often you hold the servo in that position while holding the brakes down. So it's really strenuous on the servo motor and generates a lot of heat. A aluminum case servo will help dissipate the heat, but having lots of torque is also recommended.
-Brett
@@Muserschmitt if you are on a budget of say $150 for 2 servos would you go for 2 $75 servos or say 1 for $100 and another one that's $50?
Are you going to upgrade the shock towers
Good question. Yes, upgrading to the thicker race version front shock tower is a great upgrade, as suggested by CJ in Part 4; but... we're not going to upgrade it until the current one breaks or bends, just to put upgrade money in other areas, like the servos.
-Brett
Ok nice
The next upgrade should be a backplate :)
If that was mine I would put on a chassis protector underneath so no dirt will get in the screws
cyper ; not worth it in outdoor it just gets ripped up first few laps
Not a bad idea, but chassis protectors don't hold up long on 1/8 buggies. I like your idea though.
-Brett
I run 1/10 on carpet and astro I did not know if that will help or not
Subscribed
Thanks Michael!
-Brett
Does Horizon own every rc car/truck/accessory??! I say that in jest, but so many rc brands are Horizon branded
I thought you deserved another👍from our other channel.
Thanks Grumpy!
-Brett
We aim to please.👌👍
Send me those stock servos @Amainhobbies would def need them for my mp9
I love watching you do these. You were having WAY too much fun with the steering servo, walking the car across the table. I had to pause the video for a few seconds, I was laughing so hard.🤣😂
Oh, and I gave you and AMain a shout out in my latest video, something I do not do for companies.
Check it out at the end of this video: th-cam.com/video/fzr-4njOJ_8/w-d-xo.html
You just keep on being you and make me smile.😊😍
Hey, that was cool. Thanks Grumpy! Appreciate that and I'm happy to share a smile and a laugh with you.
-Brett
Yo do have a way with doing those videos.👌😁😍👍👍
Im Johnny number 5 “short circuit”
Johnny 5 ALIVE!
-Brett
wish there's a track to play nitros :( space is premium here
Dude raise the ride hight. Maybe you won’t break the screws
When are you going to announce the winner to the CRAWLER KING🤴
Hey Tidus. I think our team has something planned for FB, but John Ash from the USA won the SSD Trail King. Sorry you didn't win man, but thanks for signing up.
-Brett
It's ok, I was just curious and was thinking some other people were to.
Hi
Lmfao 145 for some servos them shits better come with screws wtf
Giveaway?????? Plsssssss🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏 i'm just 12 i just want a rc carr.....
Adrianglee Madijanon do chores and get good cheap rc