Absolute masterclass, at the age of 57 I have finally learnt how to do it properly 😁Thank you so much for posting these videos they are truly inspirational.
Thought I was a genius when I was building peanut planes 45 yrs ago and glued sandpaper to stringer/spar stock as a tool. Your building frame takes the prize man. No more broken parts trying to hold the assembly while sanding. Truly great, thanks
Well I'm 76 now, and have been building all sorts of flying models since I was about 10 years old. I've NEVER seen that fuselage building method before, but built a number on the half-shell/keel method - NOT easy! This method looks great, more accurate, and somewhat easier. Only recently slowed down/almost stopped due to health, but keep hankering to go back to my small rubber/glider FF indoor and outdoor roots. Maybe. But any Q's I had after watching your 1st Class vid have been answered already, so "just" a big thank you for this one in particular (as well as the rest I've seen so far). Seasons Greetings. (One small point re the vid, if I may? Sometimes the lightly-coloured explanatory text doesn't show up so well against the lighter.coloured video pictures - for me anyway. Could we have a darker colour for the text please - or even better IMO, forget the music and speak the text). Thanks
DESDE GUADALAJARA MÉXICO, RECIBE MI MÁS SINCERA FELICITACIÓN POR EL INCREÍBLE MANEJO Y CONOCIMIENTO DE HACER MODELOS IMPECABLES Y TE COMENTO QUE ESTOY SIGUIENDO TUS PASOS DE ARMADO . . . . SUPER!. MIL GRACIAS.
Again perfect timing with this episode Tom, I was about to start building a Roland D-VIb which has an... oval fuselage!! 🙃Great stuff! On a side note; I glue a small stick to the side (or both) of the notching tool so that also it's depth is determined precisely.. Thank you for the videos!
That's a good idea. Maybe I should do that on one side, then leave it off on the other, since I sometimes go deeper than the 1/16"...since the formers don't always line up perfectly. Thx again.
A master craftsman sharing his knowledge. Thanks a lot. The notching tool is ingenious. I wondered how your notch cuts were so perfect. Looking forward to your next how to video. Wish you a happy Christmas and new year.
Fabulous! There are some similarities between this and boatbuilding, (I work at a boatyard).. The stringer showing the positions of the notches is like the 'spiling batten', and the gentle curve it defines is equivalent to the 'fair line', which gives us the shape of the plankwork, and the sheer (curve of the gunwale strake, or top plank. Interesting! 👍
Brand new to this have built 6 planes all crashed and burned learning with each build and your videos are priceless in the educating dept. To keep trying till they fly is motivation as are your videos.
Never quite understood this process until your demonstration:) I am so much of a visual learner so I really appreciate your effort in making this tutorial! Do you have a preferred means of removing the plan-paper outlines from the balsa? I use glue stick to adhere per your influence, but if I don't remove the plan paper very quickly it adheres very strongly (as you know). I will also throw out an idea for a future video in hope that you may want consider it, if not already.........a compilation of the small hand instruments/tools that you have adapted/or use in the craft. Thank you so much for adding to our knowledge! Sincerely, Barry
..yet another excellent video of how to' s in this business. Frankly I had been using wooden wine boxes (those boxes that come with sliding covers) to lay the post stics on., but your legged frames are certainly much better and handy. Fully notching the front and rear formers only and notching the rest of the formers later was a great idea. Many thanks/regards from Istanbul, Turkey Mr. Hallman.
Super informative as always. Just for poops anf giggles, I would love to watch you build a Guillows model, just to see how you would go about making it a flyable aircraft.
Hmmmm...that's an interesting suggestion. I'd probably start by using my own wood, then simplify as needed. In some cases, only the outline would be useful...but if ur saying use their wood and stick with their specific structure...that indeed would be a challenge. Let me think about this. Have a few kits in mind that I could consider? Be kind...haha. I'd be curious to see how some of my friends would handle the same.
Haha...yes, it appears I push the gas pedal pretty hard. Sometimes, watching a guy sand is like watching glue dry, so...it cries out to be speeded up in the editing room.
Hi Tom, Thanks for showing all the steps in building a fuselage with this method, definitely a master class. Could you in the future possibly show taking a 3 view drawing and coming up with a model plan from it? If you have to make changes to it for a better flying model. Thanks again, Michael
I have to slap my forehead for being so slow. I use a similar frame but I never thought to install those little legs on the frame such that you can lay it down without crunching the delicate fuselage. This is model grad school stuff---great video.
Same here, but at least I had the one pair on it when I built it in '94 for the Loose Racer. I had the same slap to the forehead, 20 years later however, when I built the Hodek with the larger frame. With those large, thin formers, I realized quickly that it quickly was bound to get damaged, until I added the top set. Then it was a breeze. Sometimes we're too close to see the obvious.
Thank you Tom for putting these great videos together.I have just received a couple of books on rubber powered models by Don Ross.Could you do a video on balsa selection thank you.Merry Xmas to you and your family stay safe.
Great and timely (for me) video. I just got the Henry Struck designed Dayton-Wright Racer kit by Jetco. The plans show the fuselage to be built in an upper and lower half but I think this method will be much better. Wish me luck!!
Hi Tom, found out your system for round fuselages very interesting. I have my own system that I shared long ago in Model Builderl I would love to see you write up your method for your concealed DT. Thanks, Fernando Ramos
Thx, Fernando. Been too long a time! Send me ur email sometime. The one I had hasn't gone thru in recent years. Same for Gene Smith. Cheers. Hope all is well.
I have seen diagrams of this method, but hesitated to try it. My main reservation is getting the posts out of the fuselage. I was thinking to use tiny spots of cellulose glue, softening the glue with acetone for removal. Other ideas were slots or pin clamps. After seeing this, I am encouraged to give it a try. Whatever problems come up, I will deal with. One improvement would be to glue hard strips 1/16" back from the sanding edge of the notchers to control the depth of the cut.
Still watching your videos, absolutely amazing!!! Especially I am proud, that you even made Czech Aircraft, Hodek is Czechoslovak Aircraft. I am from Brno, Czechia, thank you so much!!🇨🇿 If you will do next Let L200 Morava, it is cute and nice aircraft, aerodynamical masterpiece of engineering of my country! But your aircrafts are amazing, If I can ask, how many have you got them? Big greetings from CZ, from big fan of flying and your airplanes. Ps: I have also my models on my youtube channel... my last aircraft was biplane.😄👍👍
Thx, Jarda. I've really enjoyed building and flying the Hodek. She's given me lots of joy...along with a few scary moments, after landing deep in the corn a few years back. Hard to say but I might have 50+ models by now? Perhaps 6-8 have gone OOS?
I look forward to each one of your videos. You have rekindled a passion for a hobby that has lain dormant for too long! Out of curiosity is there a problem with warping using the form core frame? If so how do you keep it straight?
Thx, Gary. I forgot to mention, with the foam core frame as large as the Hodek's, I doubled up on the sheets, which created a rigid form. Perhaps it's noticeable. I liked that, for a frame that large, it was still rather light, which made handling much easier, than had it been made of hardwood. I find that I'm constantly moving the frame about, so being lighter, and especially having the four legs, top and bottom, I can place the frame down safely, any number of ways.
I've been enjoying your series of videos! I am a once, and soon to be again, Flying Aces Club member. I cut my teeth the Mike Midkiff, Bob Isaacks, Charlie Hill and Mike Isermann. What tool are you using to deliver your CA to the formers? Thanks again!
People have mentioned their age so, so will I. I'm 78 and just like Andy my health has limited what i can do. I've designed some unique stuff in the past and I've been wrestling with how I want to build the fuse for a Ta-183, a small one for ducted fan, about 9 inches in length. I can now redraw my frames to better accommodate this method. This video was a very relaxing and enjoyable 16+ minutes and I've saved it to my bookmarks. I have one question. When you attached the frames to the vertical posts you used what appeared to be white glue. When you cut them free they seemed to detach quite easily. did you modify the adhesive with talc? Thanks again for a great video. I'm also a big fan of the Hodek.
Thx, Roy. I used Titebond wood glue, but if white glue holds, that'd be a good idea, since the water would soften the glue for removal of the frame. Other glues could do the same I'm sure.
@maxliart which construction method do you consider to be lighter - the method in the video? Or box and former? Thanks for another great video, and I wish you and you’re family a very Merry Christmas.
It's hard to say, unless u build one of both...though I would think the method above would be a bit lighter. But I have found that the box and former will play out better with rubber thrashing about inside. Definitely stronger. Rubber will eventually knock out some of those full formers above....like a boxer punching another, who's not wearing a mouth guard...spitting out a few bits of teeth...
@@maxfliart Thanks for the reply! It’s funny that you mention the box and former being stronger with the rubber thrashing around inside, as this is the method I’m going to employ in my next rubber twin. It’s also easier to incorporate the box type into the wing, or at least it will in the next project I’m looking to build after the Mosquito. Good analogy with the boxers and mouth guards too! Lol
@@markmayfield Thx. I demo'd this method, since it's one that I've liked, but hadn't seen used that much, so I thought the troops would enjoy it, and perhaps consider it as an option. On the plus side, it's always perfectly straight, with no banana tendencies. Like the Hodek and this glider, it's probably best for a fuselage that won't have rubber inside. Unless of course, u bump up the balsa density, then ur probably fine. Some make the formers with cross grained 1/32" sheets, which makes them especially tough, though a tad heavier.
@@maxfliart When I built the Mosquito fuselage I used some 1/8 plywood sheet and marked the former locations in the same way you did in your video. I then used a wood saw that gave me a slot for the 1/16 formers to locate into and secured the ply with some 2”x1” timber to keep the ply from flexing. It worked really well and allowed me to obtain a straight fuselage. I was that pleased with it, I used the same method to build the nacelles. Yes I’ve seen the cross grain 1/32 laminated sheet idea used over here in the UK, but as you say, there is a weight penalty. Maybe I’ll have to experiment to see just what the actual weight difference is between the 2 methods for the formers.
I have wanted to build that model ever since the first glance at Lubomir's plan. It's so elegant and looks like a natural for a rubber-powered twin. The plan was to build it at walnut scale for indoor flight. Like many plans, that's as far as it progressed Edit: The Hodek I meant
It's a 5" clear dowel with a pin embedded on the end, but they can easily be made with wooden dowels. I bought them many years ago, but the source no longer makes them. They come in very handy.
@@pdbrown170b In the film, I used the Titebond on the formers when attaching them to the jig posts. The stringers were all glued with the CA, although I'm sure if the Titebond was thinned a bit, it'd work just as well. I find that a small puddle of CA stays wet as I go down the line, where often the Titebond starts to set up if I don't move quick enough. But really, any thin glue would work.
Aside from the obvious, one thing you've done here that just slaps me in the face is the dry fit of the stinger and THEN notch. I can't tell you how many times I was disappointed with my pre-notched former fitment. Then I'd extend the notch and try to fill in the gap.
It's merely a pin on the end of a 5" clear rod. I dip the point into a small puddle / drop of CA (on masking tape) and float it onto the stringer & former. U can easily make one with an 1/8" dowel & a pin.
@@maxfliart The clear rod is cool. I glued a pin between two pop cycle sticks. Yours is better. LOL. I am looking forward to your next installment on this series.
Thx for the comment. I'm sure u could use either, but for me, wood glue would release easier once I finish and need to remove the structure from the jig. CA gets further into the wood, while Titebond is more on the surface. I wanted something that was just barely holding on, since I knew that removing the fus from the jig was a delicate process.
Absolute masterclass, at the age of 57 I have finally learnt how to do it properly 😁Thank you so much for posting these videos they are truly inspirational.
Thought I was a genius when I was building peanut planes 45 yrs ago and glued sandpaper to stringer/spar stock as a tool. Your building frame takes the prize man. No more broken parts trying to hold the assembly while sanding. Truly great, thanks
Personally, nothing could be more clear instruction than these videos. No need for narration, the music is a soothing background.
Thx. Appreciated.
Well I'm 76 now, and have been building all sorts of flying models since I was about 10 years old. I've NEVER seen that fuselage building method before, but built a number on the half-shell/keel method - NOT easy! This method looks great, more accurate, and somewhat easier. Only recently slowed down/almost stopped due to health, but keep hankering to go back to my small rubber/glider FF indoor and outdoor roots. Maybe. But any Q's I had after watching your 1st Class vid have been answered already, so "just" a big thank you for this one in particular (as well as the rest I've seen so far). Seasons Greetings. (One small point re the vid, if I may? Sometimes the lightly-coloured explanatory text doesn't show up so well against the lighter.coloured video pictures - for me anyway. Could we have a darker colour for the text please - or even better IMO, forget the music and speak the text). Thanks
DESDE GUADALAJARA MÉXICO, RECIBE MI MÁS SINCERA FELICITACIÓN POR EL INCREÍBLE MANEJO Y CONOCIMIENTO DE HACER MODELOS IMPECABLES Y TE COMENTO QUE ESTOY SIGUIENDO TUS PASOS DE ARMADO . . . . SUPER!. MIL GRACIAS.
Gracias. Me alegro que disfrutes las películas. Buena suerte y disfruta construyendo tus modelos.
I am a retired "tech Instructor" and your videos are the BEST training videos I've seen. ALL of your videos are excellent. Thank you!
Ive not built a free-flight model in nearly 35 years but after seeing these I ordered a kit. My favorite work surface is drywall. Pins stick good.
That's a great idea. Have fun with the build!
This is a great lesson, you made it look so easy, I can't wait to give it a try.
Tom, your post is very helpful. Thank you.
That was fantastic thanks for sharing.
I am very glad I watched your video, I learned alot. I plan to watch your other ones too. Thank you.
That is a great way to build, thanks for the video, I will use your method, been building for 57 yrs.
Big thanks to sharing your knowledge for free!
Great lesson, very nice choice of relaxing music theme 👍🏻
Writing from across the pond, France…
Always a pleasure to watch a Master Craftsman at work. 👍🏻
The notching tool is just one of your meany ideas to make it easier, thank you.
This is very efficient way to to build. I had never known it until you showed me.
Thank you Tom.👍🙂
A nice birthday gift. Thank you, sir!
Thx, cheers!
I always wanted to know how master builders created these masterpieces. Thank you. Amazing. Please keep going. Teach the world this art.
Many many thanks for the video lesson!
What a great way to do it!
Again perfect timing with this episode Tom, I was about to start building a Roland D-VIb which has an... oval fuselage!! 🙃Great stuff! On a side note; I glue a small stick to the side (or both) of the notching tool so that also it's depth is determined precisely.. Thank you for the videos!
That's a good idea. Maybe I should do that on one side, then leave it off on the other, since I sometimes go deeper than the 1/16"...since the formers don't always line up perfectly. Thx again.
There is a beauty in the balsa framework.
But there's never been enough of that beauty to stop me from covering and flying the plane. ;D
… I am truly speechless … this video is breathtaking in it’s beauty and production, a masterwork for all apprentices to emulate and learn.
These how to videos are pure gold! Thank you!
Thank you for a great video. I picked up several new ideas! Happy new year from Sweden ☀️
Few things are as pleasing to the eye as Form and Function. You have rendered that design concept as an art form!
A master craftsman sharing his knowledge. Thanks a lot. The notching tool is ingenious. I wondered how your notch cuts were so perfect. Looking forward to your next how to video. Wish you a happy Christmas and new year.
I second Andy :-)) I will use this in my giant scale airplanes. Thanks
Fabulous! There are some similarities between this and boatbuilding, (I work at a boatyard).. The stringer showing the positions of the notches is like the 'spiling batten', and the gentle curve it defines is equivalent to the 'fair line', which gives us the shape of the plankwork, and the sheer (curve of the gunwale strake, or top plank. Interesting! 👍
Brand new to this have built 6 planes all crashed and burned learning with each build and your videos are priceless in the educating dept. To keep trying till they fly is motivation as are your videos.
Thank you so much for doing these videos. They are fantastic. I learn so much with each one.
You are building a fantastic resource library! So many great tips and tricks here, thanks!
Fantastic work, Tom. Thanks. Abrazo desde Argentina.🇦🇷.Fernando Zariz.
Fantastic!
I've never seen that method before and I've learnt a lot.
Happy Christmas Tom.
Noel
Great to hear, Noel...Ha...old dog, new tricks! Cheers, friend.
Thanks! I never would have figured it out on my own.
Great vide and technique
Thanks for the knowledge!
What an excellent video. I really learned a lot watching you work. Thanks for sharing your expertise with us. Have a very happy Christmas. Terry
Enjoy watching a real master building
Never quite understood this process until your demonstration:) I am so much of a visual learner so I really appreciate your effort in making this tutorial! Do you have a preferred means of removing the plan-paper outlines from the balsa? I use glue stick to adhere per your influence, but if I don't remove the plan paper very quickly it adheres very strongly (as you know). I will also throw out an idea for a future video in hope that you may want consider it, if not already.........a compilation of the small hand instruments/tools that you have adapted/or use in the craft. Thank you so much for adding to our knowledge! Sincerely, Barry
Thx for the feedback, Barry. Just float some alcohol on the paper. After it soaks thru, it should reactivate the glue, releasing the bond paper.
Thx for the feedback, Barry. Just float some alcohol on the paper. After it soaks thru, it should reactivate the glue, releasing the bond paper.
yes yes yes --- what ARE those tools, how did the sanding blocks get built, which knives, the notching tool is brilliant....
Thank you for this series. I'm learning a lot!
This particular video reminds me of building a skin on frame kayak but in miniature.
Great work, and excellent tutorial. Thanks :)
..yet another excellent video of how to' s in this business. Frankly I had been using wooden wine boxes (those boxes that come with sliding covers) to lay the post stics on., but your legged frames are certainly much better and handy. Fully notching the front and rear formers only and notching the rest of the formers later was a great idea. Many thanks/regards from Istanbul, Turkey Mr. Hallman.
Bravo Tom and thank you! Merry Christmas and Good Health in 2022!
Super informative as always. Just for poops anf giggles, I would love to watch you build a Guillows model, just to see how you would go about making it a flyable aircraft.
Hmmmm...that's an interesting suggestion. I'd probably start by using my own wood, then simplify as needed. In some cases, only the outline would be useful...but if ur saying use their wood and stick with their specific structure...that indeed would be a challenge. Let me think about this. Have a few kits in mind that I could consider? Be kind...haha. I'd be curious to see how some of my friends would handle the same.
@@maxfliart Do it, do it. do it! I double darn dare ya!😁
@@glennreach6930 Maybe one of their WW2 ships. Time to ponder.
Bravo!!! Well Done!!! Thank you!!!
That’s a great tutorial on that technique. Your scalp sanding is so fast!😀
Haha...yes, it appears I push the gas pedal pretty hard. Sometimes, watching a guy sand is like watching glue dry, so...it cries out to be speeded up in the editing room.
Hi Tom, Thanks for showing all the steps in building a fuselage with this method, definitely a master class. Could you in the future possibly show taking a 3 view drawing and coming up with a model plan from it? If you have to make changes to it for a better flying model. Thanks again, Michael
FANTASTICOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have to slap my forehead for being so slow. I use a similar frame but I never thought to install those little legs on the frame such that you can lay it down without crunching the delicate fuselage. This is model grad school stuff---great video.
Same here, but at least I had the one pair on it when I built it in '94 for the Loose Racer. I had the same slap to the forehead, 20 years later however, when I built the Hodek with the larger frame. With those large, thin formers, I realized quickly that it quickly was bound to get damaged, until I added the top set. Then it was a breeze. Sometimes we're too close to see the obvious.
Thank you Tom for putting these great videos together.I have just received a couple of books on rubber powered models by Don Ross.Could you do a video on balsa selection thank you.Merry Xmas to you and your family stay safe.
Great and timely (for me) video. I just got the Henry Struck designed Dayton-Wright Racer kit by Jetco. The plans show the fuselage to be built in an upper and lower half but I think this method will be much better. Wish me luck!!
Hi Tom, found out your system for round fuselages very interesting. I have my own system that I shared long ago in Model Builderl I would love to see you write up your method for your concealed DT. Thanks, Fernando Ramos
Thx, Fernando. Been too long a time! Send me ur email sometime. The one I had hasn't gone thru in recent years. Same for Gene Smith. Cheers. Hope all is well.
I have seen diagrams of this method, but hesitated to try it. My main reservation is getting the posts out of the fuselage. I was thinking to use tiny spots of cellulose glue, softening the glue with acetone for removal. Other ideas were slots or pin clamps. After seeing this, I am encouraged to give it a try. Whatever problems come up, I will deal with.
One improvement would be to glue hard strips 1/16" back from the sanding edge of the notchers to control the depth of the cut.
Thx, good ideas.
Still watching your videos, absolutely amazing!!!
Especially I am proud, that you even made Czech Aircraft, Hodek is Czechoslovak Aircraft.
I am from Brno, Czechia, thank you so much!!🇨🇿
If you will do next Let L200 Morava, it is cute and nice aircraft, aerodynamical masterpiece of engineering of my country!
But your aircrafts are amazing, If I can ask, how many have you got them?
Big greetings from CZ, from big fan of flying and your airplanes.
Ps: I have also my models on my youtube channel... my last aircraft was biplane.😄👍👍
Thx, Jarda. I've really enjoyed building and flying the Hodek. She's given me lots of joy...along with a few scary moments, after landing deep in the corn a few years back. Hard to say but I might have 50+ models by now? Perhaps 6-8 have gone OOS?
I look forward to each one of your videos. You have rekindled a passion for a hobby that has lain dormant for too long! Out of curiosity is there a problem with warping using the form core frame? If so how do you keep it straight?
Thx, Gary. I forgot to mention, with the foam core frame as large as the Hodek's, I doubled up on the sheets,
which created a rigid form. Perhaps it's noticeable. I liked that, for a frame that large, it was still rather light, which made handling much easier, than had it been made of hardwood. I find that I'm constantly moving the frame about, so being lighter, and especially having the four legs, top and bottom, I can place the frame down safely, any number of ways.
I've been enjoying your series of videos! I am a once, and soon to be again, Flying Aces Club member. I cut my teeth the Mike Midkiff, Bob Isaacks, Charlie Hill and Mike Isermann. What tool are you using to deliver your CA to the formers?
Thanks again!
Thankyou
As usual, another beautiful lesson from the Master. Thank you Tom!
Nice ! where do you buy quality balsa ? Thanks
and the first plane i see is a pulqui, greattings from argentina!!
Yes for sure...one of my favorite flyers...and one of my favorite fuselage shapes!
People have mentioned their age so, so will I. I'm 78 and just like Andy my health has limited what i can do. I've designed some unique stuff in the past and I've been wrestling with how I want to build the fuse for a Ta-183, a small one for ducted fan, about 9 inches in length. I can now redraw my frames to better accommodate this method. This video was a very relaxing and enjoyable 16+ minutes and I've saved it to my bookmarks. I have one question. When you attached the frames to the vertical posts you used what appeared to be white glue. When you cut them free they seemed to detach quite easily. did you modify the adhesive with talc? Thanks again for a great video. I'm also a big fan of the Hodek.
Thx, Roy. I used Titebond wood glue, but if white glue holds, that'd be a good idea, since the water would soften the glue for removal of the frame. Other glues could do the same I'm sure.
@maxliart which construction method do you consider to be lighter - the method in the video? Or box and former?
Thanks for another great video, and I wish you and you’re family a very Merry Christmas.
It's hard to say, unless u build one of both...though I would think the method above would be a bit lighter. But I have found that the box and former will play out better with rubber thrashing about inside. Definitely stronger. Rubber will eventually knock out some of those full formers above....like a boxer punching another, who's not wearing a mouth guard...spitting out a few bits of teeth...
@@maxfliart Thanks for the reply! It’s funny that you mention the box and former being stronger with the rubber thrashing around inside, as this is the method I’m going to employ in my next rubber twin. It’s also easier to incorporate the box type into the wing, or at least it will in the next project I’m looking to build after the Mosquito.
Good analogy with the boxers and mouth guards too! Lol
@@markmayfield Thx. I demo'd this method, since it's one that I've liked, but hadn't seen used that much, so I thought the troops would enjoy it, and perhaps consider it as an option. On the plus side, it's always perfectly straight, with no banana tendencies. Like the Hodek and this glider, it's probably best for a fuselage that won't have rubber inside. Unless of course, u bump up the balsa density, then ur probably fine. Some make the formers with cross grained 1/32" sheets, which makes them especially tough, though a tad heavier.
@@maxfliart When I built the Mosquito fuselage I used some 1/8 plywood sheet and marked the former locations in the same way you did in your video. I then used a wood saw that gave me a slot for the 1/16 formers to locate into and secured the ply with some 2”x1” timber to keep the ply from flexing. It worked really well and allowed me to obtain a straight fuselage. I was that pleased with it, I used the same method to build the nacelles.
Yes I’ve seen the cross grain 1/32 laminated sheet idea used over here in the UK, but as you say, there is a weight penalty. Maybe I’ll have to experiment to see just what the actual weight difference is between the 2 methods for the formers.
I have wanted to build that model ever since the first glance at Lubomir's plan. It's so elegant and looks like a natural for a rubber-powered twin. The plan was to build it at walnut scale for indoor flight. Like many plans, that's as far as it progressed
Edit: The Hodek I meant
Marvelous video, than’ you. BTW, what sort of tool are you using to apply the CA?
It's a 5" clear dowel with a pin embedded on the end, but they can easily be made with wooden dowels. I bought them many years ago, but the source no longer makes them. They come in very handy.
So, to be clear, are you are using the point of the pin to apply a tiny bit of Titebond aliphatic glue to tack on the stringers?
@@pdbrown170b In the film, I used the Titebond on the formers when attaching them to the jig posts. The stringers were all glued with the CA, although I'm sure if the Titebond was thinned a bit, it'd work just as well. I find that a small puddle of CA stays wet as I go down the line, where often the Titebond starts to set up if I don't move quick enough. But really, any thin glue would work.
Aside from the obvious, one thing you've done here that just slaps me in the face is the dry fit of the stinger and THEN notch. I can't tell you how many times I was disappointed with my pre-notched former fitment. Then I'd extend the notch and try to fill in the gap.
Exactly. I'm sure we've all done the same. After a few times, it came down to...there has to be a better way. Good luck with ur future builds.
Just found your videos. What are you using to apply the glue? Just curious.
Typically I'll use a tool that has a pin on the end, or even a tooth pick.
what is that ca glue applicator?
It's merely a pin on the end of a 5" clear rod. I dip the point into a small puddle / drop of CA (on masking tape) and float it onto the stringer & former. U can easily make one with an 1/8" dowel & a pin.
@@maxfliart The clear rod is cool. I glued a pin between two pop cycle sticks. Yours is better. LOL. I am looking forward to your next installment on this series.
Why did you use wood glue to attach the formers to the jig instead of CA?
Thx for the comment. I'm sure u could use either, but for me, wood glue would release easier once I finish and need to remove the structure from the jig. CA gets further into the wood, while Titebond is more on the surface. I wanted something that was just barely holding on, since I knew that removing the fus from the jig was a delicate process.
i like the sound of the sandpaper much better than that computer noise
What is the tool used to apply glue?
It's a rod with a pin embedded. Comes in handy. They're no longer sold but can easily be made with a 1/8" dowel and pin.
What glue are you using
Mostly Titebond, and sometimes CA
正確な機体を作る為にジグから作るのか！
はい、この方法でより良いスケールの外観が得られると思います。