I don't understand why at the moment "4:58" you make the turns to wind the rubber clockwise (seen by those who watch the video), the propeller will not turn in this direction?
Thanks for questioning this, as it's something that I should have clarified in the film. I'm using a 10:1 Dave Rees winder from the 1980-90s, which has a gearing that requires a reverse rotation of the crank, to what is typical for most other winders. It took some getting used to long ago, but it's a great winder. Thx again.
Thank you Tom this is exactly what our hobby needs, a lot of us are stuck in our ways because we don't get see many different ways of doing things. I really appreciate your willingness to share. Thanks again
Thx, Duane. My approach is only one of many, but I felt that if I merely share my experiences, learned from the shoulders of my heroes in F/F these past 30 years, then others could be equally inspired.
@@maxfliart Youve inspired me back into the hobbie/sport after leaving it behind some 50yrs hence.. BUT.. omg has the world changed since then, no hobbie shops anywhere any more.. i phased out if rubber power into the early single channel diy rc planes.. now.. where can we get a rubber stripper or the rolls of rubber sheets for our motors.. my old gear has loooong ago evaporated through moves & time.. im interested in manufacturing some of the tit bits like prop shaft bearing buttons etc in setting up die buttons for pressings.. even piano wire has been awkward to source here in NZ.. but i have soooo much more gear/tools & capacity than i had as a youngster waaay back then.. youve reignited a level of excitement i thought i had looong grown out of.. thank you so much 😍
Well this was fantastic. For those of us unseasoned and inexperienced builders and flyers floundering in our lack of knowledge this was so helpful. Please do more. I know it takes your time, but greatly appreciated.
At almost 65 years old, I'm a little late getting into this hobby but it's one of those things I have always wanted to do. Your videos are very informative and helpful. Thank you for your time and efforts. I really enjoy these and have learned a lot. Also, I plan to introduce my grandson to this wonderful activity soon. I want him to learn that there is a REAL world out there. Not just something on video.
Thx for the comments, Lawrence. Glad ur going to give it a shot, and share the experience with ur grandson. I'm doing the same with my 7 yr old granddaughter. She loves it.
As clarification, the benefit of a braided motor shows itself "after" the motor is installed, wound up, then flown and becomes fully unwound. That's when the motor's tension, created by the braids, will lead to a foreshortening of the motor, and suspend itself between the hook & rear peg. This is what allows the CG to remain the same during the power portion and throughout the transition into the glide. Winding forward with the braids is the key. Reverse winding is far less effective, on longer motors at least.
Thank you for the video and tips. I have a very basic question (related with my lack of english). What do you mean with "forward" and "reverse" winding?
@@pabloastica Thx for there question. "Forward" winding means that you wind the motor in the direction that would allow the prop to spin in the correct direction for powered flight. Reverse winding (for braiding) would be the opposite, or winding backwards. Regarding braids, I'm saying that it is best to create the braids by winding 'forward'.
To tell the "forward" direction we just need to watch the direction of the winder handle to braid the motor(clockwise from camera) and compare that to winder prior to flight(also clockwise from camera). Make perfect sense to see it done.
ENCORE!!! This is GREAT!!! So glad someone finally is doing a series on this! Been interested in doing this for awhile now but just didn't know exactly how to do it the right ways.
Thank you, Tom. I am one of those folks that learns better from seeing things than reading about how to do things. It's very kind of you to share your knowledge with us! Sincerely, Barry
You sir, are an incredible, model aircraft builder, flyer and film maker and teacher. Thank you for all you do in this regard. I have learned so much from you and I have thoroughly enjoyed your work.
Greetings.... I am beyond impressed with your modeling skill and your ability (and will) to share your knowledge, thank you. I am a retired Architect , retired hot rodder, retired amature civil aircraft pilot, retired sprint car crew chief and sprint car engine builder and retired father of five children and a widower of 50 years married life and a 101st.airborne infantantry vet.and current free flyte aircraft modeler (age 73) I yield the floor to you, well done!
Hey Henry, thx for reaching out. Impressive life path...uv hit a number of my favorite things. Pop used to take me to dirt track sprint races in Hatfield, PA back in the late 50s, early 60s. It was rather different back back then...seriously more dangerous than now...but it's still a risky sport of course. I hope you find the fulfillment that I've found through free-flight.
Thank you Tom, for reading my mind and starting this series, I have so many questions since I'm new to free flight and especially the flying/trimming part. Some are answered right here, and I am sure other questions will too in following episodes! Great Stuff!!
Thanks for taking the time to share your vast expanse of free flight modeling with everyone. The hobby could use more participation, especially young people, and your efforts have and will help them understand some of the intricacies of flying these wonderful models. Bravo Tom!
As a novice I have always been in awe of the craftsmanship of your models. This video demonstrates basics that I can apply right now. Thank you so much for sharing!
Many thanks. I'm glad you understand my intent...to keep it simple, and to share the things that I've learned in free-flight that will quickly get flyers into or back into the game.
@@maxfliart your posts are greatly appreciated & a joy to watch & follow.. youre getting me back into the "sport" in retirement.. with a grandson that absolutely loves planes.. his dad was a light commercial pilot but parent divorced.. trying to instill in him the apreciation of just how much time it takes to not only build models in a world of instant rtf flyers.. but understanding the intracacies of trimming.. he loves creating paper dart planes.. its been 50+ yrs since i changed from rubber to gas power then lost my hobby bug some years after that.. still have some old aeromodeller mags.. thanks again you've changed two lives for sure.. in a really unsure world
'Windy' Urtnowski is known throughout the Control Line Stunt world as both a Master Craftsman builder and flyer of Control Line Stunt model planes. For years he made videos showing others how to build and fly Control Line stunt models. I have learned most of what I know today about CL stunt from 'Windy' videos. And now the 'Windy' of the Free Flight world has started sharing his knowledge with the world! I am Very Excited! Thank you, Tom!!
fun to watch. I used to fly rubber powered models in contests in my younger days, even won a trophy or two :) Props were hand carved, about 2 feet long and folded back against the fuselage when the rubber was spent allowing less drag and longer glides.
When I braid the motor, I make it up in two parts. I reverse wind each separately. The front of each is hooked onto a Tim White hook. The rear of each goes onto a tube that fits over the rear peg. Securing the tube in a vice, I put the front end on the winder and let the motor plait itself. If you don’t reverse wind you spend the first 50 turns unwinding the braid. The purpose for me is to prevent bunching which usually makes for a stalling glide. I aim with braiding to get a motor just slightly longer than the front to rear peg. If the motor is still very long then bunching can still happen. After a couple of winds the motor lengthens itself and this needs to be allowed for.
Tom, what an incredible lesson that was! You are priceless wealth of knowledge. Thank you so very much for taking the time to demonstrate all of this. I cant wait for the next one!
I am just amazed of the quality of everything you make....the plane,the filming,the editing....it is so peacefull to watch your videoos...love it !!..God bless from the Netherlands
Thx for the kind words, Ed. I've been enjoying the process of giving back. It felt like the right time to do so and share the knowledge gained from so many of my mentors these past 35 years. More to come.
Most excellent! I just got into the hobby and am putting together my first kit, a Guillow's 504 Spitfire. I've already picked up a few things from watching your other videos. Tutorials on the basics like these are much needed and appreciated. Looks like my Spit will be getting a few upgrades once I get it flying.
Very good. Seeing is believing, and a lot of people ask about this. When braiding a single loop, I grip the ends in black binder clasps a couple inches from each end, to leave something for tying the knots. On my Cloud Tramp I have four strands of 3/32". I have a 1/8" O-ring around two strands at the knot end, which goes over the rear hook. At the front end, I have a 1/8" O-ring around all four strands and I push it against the prop hook after it is wound. The O-ring at the back makes it easier to get the motor off the winder hook and onto the airplane without losing any turns. (For flight testing, I must know the exact number of turns.)
I'm sure this video series will be recommended to modelers, new and old, alongside Don Ross' book and Earl Stahls articles. The proof is in the pudding. Plus if you ever release a book or dvd it will have great cover art for sure!!
This has to be the most satisfying instructional video on TH-cam. Thank you! I’d sure like to see how the adjustable thrust gizmo works and knowing when to adjust it. I don’t know what it’s called
Dear Max, your videos have fascinated me about this wonderful hobby, I'm watching your tutorials with my smartphone which translates to me, "unfortunately my knowledge of English is not very good", I hope to buy a model soon, I wanted to start with one from Guillows and following your advice, manage to make it fly. Unfortunately here in Italy the free flight with rubber engine is not very widespread and known and there is little or nothing to be found in shops, I am forced to buy abroad....goodbye and good flights.
Thank you for this. I once flew rubber powered 50 years ago. Lost my "bible"Now with retirement coming up, it would be great to get back into it. Your Video will be a great start.
Tom, I've watched all of your videos several times over the years and I truly appreciate you sharing them. Your building skill is fantastic and I'm sure you and your father had many special times together building and flying models you created-fantastic memories.. Well, I'm 61 built many possible flying models in my life but have never flown one... would you consider creating a video of very basic fundamentals of flight? sizing a motor to a plane by weight or wingspan. what equipment to use and where to get it, tying knots, rubber lube , building a winding jig -how to get a kit model in the air? I've recently completed a walnut scale Dumas Fokker Eindecker using only the kit materials and without any rubber seems to balance correctly. I balanced the kit supplied prop (Sig prop) and I'd like to fly it. not looking for anything special, just a first flight... I realise that, a lot to ask even if you could point me some where else for that info, it would be greatly appreciated. You also create some beautiful art work for book covers - I do not have that skill at all. Thank you and enjoy your day! Steve Probelski
As a kid I wondered why rubber kits came with so much extra rubber. I cut the rubber down to fit the model like a toy wind up plane. No wonder I never got them to fly! LOL. I started building again but for micro RC. Yet I really miss the adventure of rubber FF. You sir are showing me tips I never knew about. Please keep them coming. I just bought a 20 inch FF ruber and plan to keep it rubber. I now need to find a FF winder, lube and some aluminum tubing.
Very good information for us who are just learning the joy of free flight. I enjoy my electric R/C planes but these are exciting because you never know what comes next.
Thank you…. Thank you so much for this!!! I am overwhelmed with your magnanimity…. Much obliged for this…. I dare say at the risk of sounding selfish…Looking forward for more if possible… thank you again!
Excellent instructions. How do you determine the size ie width and thickness? Could you please explain and demonstrate how you print the tissue? And which printer and ink you use? I enjoy your building and flight videos. Thanks
I like to use the 25% to 35% weight of the model approach, to determine my motors. You will quickly see if a cross section needs to be more or less..or if the rubber can go longer or needs to be shorter. Most of my motors for mid-sized models are 2 loops. I'd suggest taking any model that u have, weigh it without rubber, then make a motor that fits the 25-35% mark. Also start with at least 2X the hook to peg length for the rubber, before braiding. That will put u in the ball park. I like Epson printers with the Durabrite inks, which are waterproof.
Thank you for the tips. This will certainly help me get longer flights. I like the greasy bag technique. I've used a silicone aerosol before, but that looks like a much better idea.
Thx, Richard. I like the bag too, after years of using my fingers with that lube. Uses surprisingly little from the tube, perhaps only 1/2" length of lube for most smaller motors.
I am enraptured by it all. This PREMIERE! video is the best performance yet of humanity and aviation story; entirely factual, instructive and outstandingly valuable by that alone. But literarily it is poetic and visually stunning, even the music is perfectly suited. But wait! What is the aircraft he so carefreely whips around, but an impeccably produced aircraft that, among many millions I've witnessed in hundreds of ways, was the best. His model here is among the most beautiful and wondrous of all I've ever seen. Most of that PREMIERE beauty is enhanced or appreciated with knowledge that the model shown here is a combination of 3 guidance, aeronautically, historically and materially and, with just those instructions, the model builder/designer has created/produced the result: greater than just the sum of it's parts. The Fokker replica is almost as exquisite and plain gorgeous as a Faberge egg, yet historically flawless too. Further, all this rubberband braiding are brilliant adaptations to exchange a gas chemical internal combustion engine and fuel, the aircraft's power source to something entirely suitable for THIS aircraft, size, scale, type and purpose altogether - off the shelf. Even further, his uncanny, DIY innovative rubber band cotton-djinn miracle machine braider is to the innovation and improvement of rubberband engines as turbocharging and super tuning and designing their real counterparts. Further too, is this all is entirely green leaving no discernible footprints at any point in the pursuit's to limitless excesses; environmentally-, children/family-friendly, at least. I am enthralled by it all, after all. Bravo!
Many thanks, Stefan. I gather random content each time I fly, in hopes of using it for future films, so initially it doesn't take that much time. But then the Editing Monster stops over unexpectedly at the studio...and there's no way around him. Ha. I have to be in the right mood, but then it's fun...and rewarding. Glad the troops enjoy them. Was good to see u at Wawa. Been far too long since I was in DC with the Maxecuter crowd.
You build the most wouderful models an it raises my interest in rubber and free flight so one of my next projects will lead in this direction. thx 4 sharing these wounderful pictures that are really poison for my phantasie ;-) cheer Matze
Thank you so much from Dayton, Ohio! This is the sort of information I need, and think many people attempting a build planes like this, need. I build and fly rubber models but I'm in no way to your level. One of the barriers I have is getting good "speciality" supplies... for example: 1) that small diameter aluminum tubing; 2) the props; 3) the tissue; 4) good kits; 5) the winders; 5) De-thermalizer; etc. Thanks again
Thx. I appreciate the feedback. I'd suggest checking the Easy Built or Volare websites. Both have good kits along with the supplies u would need to get back into building. Their web addresses are in the description below the film.
I still have big "???" over my head and in my mind how you brade the rubber bands? I think my mind just snapped! I joined your model club on FaceBook a while back and I love ever model you build. I haven't much experience flying yet. No place near me leagally to fly without the Police popping up telling me to leave. Plus I'm trying to start my hobby back up after 38 years absent.
This series is really great. Thanks so much for sharing some of your knowledge. I am not near any free flight flier groups so I don't get any personal experience shared with me. Thanks again!!!
I had a Tipsy Nipper plane just like on the thumbnail. It was a kit that had a 2:1 gear ratio that automatically went to 1:1 when winding the rubber band. Quick to wind and flew for a while. It was a fun plane to fly.
This is a fantastic idea! Detailed tutorials are rare on this subject. I plan on building the Altair but I know I'll struggle with the wing root fillets that you made look so beautiful; all advice welcome!
Hello, it's a pleasure to greet you from Guadalajara, Mexico and congratulate you on the great work and teaching that you share with us; I will be very grateful if you teach us how to build the empennage system of an airplane so that the elevator goes up and goes down on its own and thus not lose the plane. Thanks.
This video is pure gold. I took notes. Thank you very much. A few more questions: 1. I am guessing that maximum winds must be determined by winding a sacrificial motor to destruction? 2. "A properly braided motor at rest should not touch the bottom of the fuselage." At 3:31 it looks like the motor is much longer than that. Was that appearance only because part of the motor was stretched tight on the insertion stick? Wait at 12:27 the braided motor at rest also seems to be much longer than nose to rear peg length. Can you explain this discrepancy? 3. On another visit could you show us about crocket hooks? When are they useful and when are they not?
I'm so glad for ur questions, as they allow me to clarify a few things. Wishing I could re-edit the film... Let's start with #2. The benefit of a braided motor shows itself after the motor is installed, wound up, then flown and is fully unwound. That's when the motor's tension, created by the braids, will lead to a foreshortening of the motor, and suspend itself between the hook & rear peg. This is what allows the CG to remain the same throughout the power portion and through the transition to the glide. Winding forward with the braids is the key. Reverse winding is far less effective, on longer motors at least. #1, yes, it's always good to wind a chosen motor to the breaking point. Various grids show the winds per inch, but not until you crank up the motor 'til it's rock hard or if it breaks, will u truly know. #3, crocket hooks make it easier to attach a motor to the prop hook. Some use it for all of their models, but I only use them on 3 loop & 4 loop motors, since it's difficult to hold them when full wound, and thread the needle, so to speak, with the prop hook.
@@maxfliart Thank you, I understand the use of the crocket hook and I understand that there are winding tables which can help one make make an estimate of maximum winds. I further understand that the shortening effect of braiding is not fully apparent until after winding and unwinding for flight a time or two I want to confirm that I understand FORWARD WINDS. I take that to mean winding in the direction one would wind the motor to store power for flight. Again thank you very much for your patient teaching.
Thanks for this. The difference this kind of content will make to the results of soo many people out there is immeasurable but I'm sure pretty significant. How many beautiful models get built but never get past a trim session let alone attain those first beautiful level turns around you as it climbs out. The dark art of rubber handling and the trim flights. One intriguing to me is the model flight path. What causes the choice of under power circle right or left ? Is this determined by model type by design before building as in thrust offset or on the day based on the models natural inclination to turn assuming you have it neutral thrust on prop left or right. Regardless thanks.
Thx for ur comments. For a long time, I had tried to 'force' my models into a right pattern, against initial torque, since I noticed that many models that flew to the left under power didn't climb because of the torque burst. To me, that was waisted power. When my models went to the right during the power burst, they were climbing. Now I feel differently. I still try for a right-right pattern, but if the model shows me that she wants to go left, I'm more willing to follow her lead. I never build a model with the intention of one direction or the other. It's easy enough to change the pattern via thrust, wingtip weight and gurney flaps.
I've been having some badly behaved 16 1/2 inch wingspan but I actually built in some down thrust and right thinking that's required but I wont do that again I'll make it neutral and adjust from there. I suspect it's a lefty for some reason. Thanks again that's good to know.
this was fabulous, thank you so much for the instructions and the video image quality was superb. I hate to look a gift horse in the mouth considering this video is in the top 1% of quality for TH-cam, but a tripod or monopod for the camera operator would make the model much easier to see and watch during the inflight segment
Thank you for amazing video! It is amazing that you are sharing your wisdom and helping other people who want to start with this amazing hobby. Although the video contains plenty of useful information, I have some questions i would like to have answer for: 1. Why do you lube the rubber band? And do you lube it before every flight or only if the band is new? 2. How do you determine max winds for the band? 3. How do you determine the required number of loops for certain model? 4. When you were installing rubber band into the Junkers, you inserted it through a paper tube. What is the tube for? Is it to prevent damage of the fuselage in case the band ruptures? If anybody knows the answers, please help me and answer. Thank you:).
Hi. U only need to lube a motor once. Max winds are partly determined thru years of experience, but I've included a generic rubber turns calculator in the film description. For many models in the 20" to 28" range, two loops will probably get you there. But I also determine the rubber size & length according to the weight of the model, without the motor in it. Shoot for a motor that is at least 2 times the length of the prop hook to the rear peg....and around 25% the weight of the empty model. That's a good place to start. For the Junkers I was using what is called a blast tube. And ur right, it's for protection against a blown motor...especially as you get closer to the max winds for a given motor.
I've a few films to catch up with on your excellent channel Josh-something to look forward to over Christmas! Truly the Wakefield is a classic. This 1 blade prop certainly works well. Nice restoration! Happy Christmas to you and all the family. 🎄⭐👍
You should consider installing a super micro 2 channel radio control system in your larger models to do more than just aerial turns. You wouldn’t need a very big battery for a 60-80 second flight. This would allow you to take advantage of thermos and wind.
Great video. Can you do a short one on the Crochet hook and how to make or purchase. Could show how you switch from winder to prop hook if that is what it is for. Also is there formula for calculating Max windings for various rubber sizes( 1/8th,3/16th, to 1/4 ). Say, 3 loops of 1/8th over 2 loops of 3/16th. Thanks, you inspire us all.
Thx for the comment, Ken. Here's the calculator table that I have listed above in the film description. hallmanstudio.com/rubber_turns_calculator.pdf Here's the source from crocket hooks. www.faimodelsupply.com/product/crocket-hook-medium/
Your videos are always inspiring. I've been building free flight rubber for about 5 years now and I'm always in awe of your builds. THANK YOU for demonstrating how to braid a single loop. I've always wondered how to do that. I'm still a little bit confused regarding of the overall length after braiding - I guess I'm not making my rubber motors long enough because yours seem about 1.5 the length of motor to peg after braiding? Mine are usually only slightly longer than the length of motor to peg.
Thx for the kind words. Yes, you need to make the loops 2.5 to 3 times the length of the prop hook to the rear peg 'before' braiding. Then once they are braided, prior to winding for a flight, the relaxed braided motor will likely be the 1.5 that you saw. But once you wind the motor, and it unwinds inside the model, it will suspend itself evenly between the front & rear pegs. That's the beauty of braiding, as it allows you to use a much longer motor, which gives you many more winds, leading to longer flights, without bunching and changing the center of gravity. So try a longer motor, and braid it. You'll see how well it can work. Good luck, and have fun!
I always had an idea of having a shorter stiffer rubber motor but installing a gearing system in the nose to get a lot more propeller turns for each turn of the rubber.
This was a very informative video for me! Thank you for showing and explaining how to do this. I am new to rubber motor planes and need to keep learning. Where can I buy the rubber and winder in the USA?
Many thanks. Your nose block tutorial was very helpful. Can you tell me the difference between forward and, presumably, backward winding / braiding is? Thanks again.
Forward braiding means you are adding the braids by winding in the same direction as you would normally wind the motor. It's far better than winding the reverse or backwards direction when making the braids. Winding forward creates the best tension for the motor to unwind and relax evenly, which keeps the model's center of gravity constant throughout the flight. If you wind backwards for the braids, it will still create tension, but not enough to maintain the CG.
I don't understand why at the moment "4:58" you make the turns to wind the rubber clockwise (seen by those who watch the video), the propeller will not turn in this direction?
Thanks for questioning this, as it's something that I should have clarified in the film. I'm using a 10:1 Dave Rees winder from the 1980-90s, which has a gearing that requires a reverse rotation of the crank, to what is typical for most other winders. It took some getting used to long ago, but it's a great winder. Thx again.
Thank you Tom this is exactly what our hobby needs, a lot of us are stuck in our ways because we don't get see many different ways of doing things. I really appreciate your willingness to share. Thanks again
Thx, Duane. My approach is only one of many, but I felt that if I merely share my experiences, learned from the shoulders of my heroes in F/F these past 30 years, then others could be equally inspired.
@@maxfliart Youve inspired me back into the hobbie/sport after leaving it behind some 50yrs hence.. BUT.. omg has the world changed since then, no hobbie shops anywhere any more.. i phased out if rubber power into the early single channel diy rc planes.. now.. where can we get a rubber stripper or the rolls of rubber sheets for our motors.. my old gear has loooong ago evaporated through moves & time.. im interested in manufacturing some of the tit bits like prop shaft bearing buttons etc in setting up die buttons for pressings.. even piano wire has been awkward to source here in NZ.. but i have soooo much more gear/tools & capacity than i had as a youngster waaay back then.. youve reignited a level of excitement i thought i had looong grown out of.. thank you so much 😍
Well this was fantastic. For those of us unseasoned and inexperienced builders and flyers floundering in our lack of knowledge this was so helpful. Please do more. I know it takes your time, but greatly appreciated.
yes yes yes one MILLION times YES!
we all need this- great way to share the knowledge. thank you
I look forward to more in this fantastic series.
At almost 65 years old, I'm a little late getting into this hobby but it's one of those things I have always wanted to do. Your videos are very informative and helpful. Thank you for your time and efforts. I really enjoy these and have learned a lot. Also, I plan to introduce my grandson to this wonderful activity soon. I want him to learn that there is a REAL world out there. Not just something on video.
Thx for the comments, Lawrence. Glad ur going to give it a shot, and share the experience with ur grandson. I'm doing the same with my 7 yr old granddaughter. She loves it.
As clarification, the benefit of a braided motor shows itself "after" the motor is installed, wound up, then flown and becomes fully unwound. That's when the motor's tension, created by the braids, will lead to a foreshortening of the motor, and suspend itself between the hook & rear peg. This is what allows the CG to remain the same during the power portion and throughout the transition into the glide. Winding forward with the braids is the key. Reverse winding is far less effective, on longer motors at least.
Thank you for the video and tips. I have a very basic question (related with my lack of english). What do you mean with "forward" and "reverse" winding?
@@pabloastica Thx for there question. "Forward" winding means that you wind the motor in the direction that would allow the prop to spin in the correct direction for powered flight. Reverse winding (for braiding) would be the opposite, or winding backwards. Regarding braids, I'm saying that it is best to create the braids by winding 'forward'.
@@maxfliart Thank you very much. Clear, now.
To tell the "forward" direction we just need to watch the direction of the winder handle to braid the motor(clockwise from camera) and compare that to winder prior to flight(also clockwise from camera).
Make perfect sense to see it done.
ENCORE!!!
This is GREAT!!!
So glad someone finally is doing a series on this!
Been interested in doing this for awhile now but just didn't know exactly how to do it the right ways.
Thank you, Tom. I am one of those folks that learns better from seeing things than reading about how to do things. It's very kind of you to share your knowledge with us! Sincerely, Barry
You sir, are an incredible, model aircraft builder, flyer and film maker and teacher. Thank you for all you do in this regard. I have learned so much from you and I have thoroughly enjoyed your work.
Greetings.... I am beyond impressed with your modeling skill and your ability (and will) to share your knowledge, thank you. I am a retired Architect , retired hot rodder, retired amature civil aircraft pilot, retired sprint car crew chief and sprint car engine builder and retired father of five children and a widower of 50 years married life and a 101st.airborne infantantry vet.and current free flyte aircraft modeler (age 73) I yield the floor to you, well done!
Hey Henry, thx for reaching out. Impressive life path...uv hit a number of my favorite things. Pop used to take me to dirt track sprint races in Hatfield, PA back in the late 50s, early 60s. It was rather different back back then...seriously more dangerous than now...but it's still a risky sport of course.
I hope you find the fulfillment that I've found through free-flight.
Thank you Tom, for reading my mind and starting this series, I have so many questions since I'm new to free flight and especially the flying/trimming part. Some are answered right here, and I am sure other questions will too in following episodes! Great Stuff!!
The term 'wow' springs to mind, both for the motor technique AND the resulting flight. I have so much to learn.
Thanks for taking the time to share your vast expanse of free flight modeling with everyone. The hobby could use more participation, especially young people, and your efforts have and will help them understand some of the intricacies of flying these wonderful models. Bravo Tom!
As a novice I have always been in awe of the craftsmanship of your models. This video demonstrates basics that I can apply right now. Thank you so much for sharing!
Many thanks. I'm glad you understand my intent...to keep it simple, and to share the things that I've learned in free-flight that will quickly get flyers into or back into the game.
@@maxfliart your posts are greatly appreciated & a joy to watch & follow.. youre getting me back into the "sport" in retirement.. with a grandson that absolutely loves planes.. his dad was a light commercial pilot but parent divorced.. trying to instill in him the apreciation of just how much time it takes to not only build models in a world of instant rtf flyers.. but understanding the intracacies of trimming.. he loves creating paper dart planes.. its been 50+ yrs since i changed from rubber to gas power then lost my hobby bug some years after that.. still have some old aeromodeller mags.. thanks again you've changed two lives for sure.. in a really unsure world
'Windy' Urtnowski is known throughout the Control Line Stunt world as both a Master Craftsman builder and flyer of Control Line Stunt model planes. For years he made videos showing others how to build and fly Control Line stunt models. I have learned most of what I know today about CL stunt from 'Windy' videos. And now the 'Windy' of the Free Flight world has started sharing his knowledge with the world! I am Very Excited! Thank you, Tom!!
fun to watch. I used to fly rubber powered models in contests in my younger days, even won a trophy or two :) Props were hand carved, about 2 feet long and folded back against the fuselage when the rubber was spent allowing less drag and longer glides.
That Dremel jig saw brought Many fond memories building all sorts of model airplanes back in the day…nice series!
I’ve been waiting for this series from you! Excited!
When I braid the motor, I make it up in two parts. I reverse wind each separately. The front of each is hooked onto a Tim White hook. The rear of each goes onto a tube that fits over the rear peg. Securing the tube in a vice, I put the front end on the winder and let the motor plait itself. If you don’t reverse wind you spend the first 50 turns unwinding the braid. The purpose for me is to prevent bunching which usually makes for a stalling glide. I aim with braiding to get a motor just slightly longer than the front to rear peg. If the motor is still very long then bunching can still happen. After a couple of winds the motor lengthens itself and this needs to be allowed for.
Your level of knowledge and craftmanship Is astonishing, thank you for sharing with us this unvaluable treasure
Tom, what an incredible lesson that was! You are priceless wealth of knowledge. Thank you so very much for taking the time to demonstrate all of this. I cant wait for the next one!
Great Idea this series of "Know How". Thank you.
I am just amazed of the quality of everything you make....the plane,the filming,the editing....it is so peacefull to watch your videoos...love it !!..God bless from the Netherlands
Thx for the kind words, Ed. I've been enjoying the process of giving back. It felt like the right time to do so and share the knowledge gained from so many of my mentors these past 35 years. More to come.
Most excellent! I just got into the hobby and am putting together my first kit, a Guillow's 504 Spitfire. I've already picked up a few things from watching your other videos. Tutorials on the basics like these are much needed and appreciated. Looks like my Spit will be getting a few upgrades once I get it flying.
Very good. Seeing is believing, and a lot of people ask about this. When braiding a single loop, I grip the ends in black binder clasps a couple inches from each end, to leave something for tying the knots. On my Cloud Tramp I have four strands of 3/32". I have a 1/8" O-ring around two strands at the knot end, which goes over the rear hook. At the front end, I have a 1/8" O-ring around all four strands and I push it against the prop hook after it is wound. The O-ring at the back makes it easier to get the motor off the winder hook and onto the airplane without losing any turns. (For flight testing, I must know the exact number of turns.)
Many thanks for doing this. I know I am going to learn a huge amount and I can't think of a more inspirational teacher on the subject.
I'm sure this video series will be recommended to modelers, new and old, alongside Don Ross' book and Earl Stahls articles. The proof is in the pudding. Plus if you ever release a book or dvd it will have great cover art for sure!!
Finely we can learn from the Legend. Please also show how you make the wing ribs, covering and control surfaces. Thank you Tom for doing this series.
Noted. Thx.
All that for just 1 minute of flight?!!... I absolutely love it!
Thank you so much for taking the time to teach us the greatness of free flight. Congratulations from Brazil!!!!
Thank you for revealing your secrets 😀. I am eagerly waiting for your instructional video on how to make propeller.
Great teaching video--one of many to come, I hope---and you have taught this old dog some new tricks he can't wait to try. Many thanks, Tom.
This has to be the most satisfying instructional video on TH-cam. Thank you! I’d sure like to see how the adjustable thrust gizmo works and knowing when to adjust it. I don’t know what it’s called
Thx, Nate. I'll add it to the list.
Dear Max, your videos have fascinated me about this wonderful hobby, I'm watching your tutorials with my smartphone which translates to me, "unfortunately my knowledge of English is not very good", I hope to buy a model soon, I wanted to start with one from Guillows and following your advice, manage to make it fly. Unfortunately here in Italy the free flight with rubber engine is not very widespread and known and there is little or nothing to be found in shops, I am forced to buy abroad....goodbye and good flights.
Thank you so much for this precise, easy to understand instructional video. For us aged, rank beginners to rubber free flight, this was a godsend.
Thx, Steve. Nothing wrong with old dogs & new tricks. It's all good, eh? Have fun building & flying.
Judging by all the comments you have really touched a nerve here , I didn't realise how many people still fly free flight , thanks for all your videos
Thx, Steven. I'm glad to see it.
I really enjoyed that, and learned stuff too :-)
You've really got some nice planes.
Thanks for making the effort !
Thank you for this. I once flew rubber powered 50 years ago. Lost my "bible"Now with retirement coming up, it would be great to get back into it. Your Video will be a great start.
Tom,
I've watched all of your videos several times over the years and I truly appreciate you sharing them. Your building skill is fantastic and I'm sure you and your father had many special times together building and flying models you created-fantastic memories..
Well, I'm 61 built many possible flying models in my life but have never flown one...
would you consider creating a video of very basic fundamentals of flight? sizing a motor to a plane by weight or wingspan. what equipment to use and where to get it, tying knots, rubber lube , building a winding jig -how to get a kit model in the air?
I've recently completed a walnut scale Dumas Fokker Eindecker using only the kit materials and without any rubber seems to balance correctly. I balanced the kit supplied prop (Sig prop) and I'd like to fly it. not looking for anything special, just a first flight...
I realise that, a lot to ask even if you could point me some where else for that info, it would be greatly appreciated.
You also create some beautiful art work for book covers - I do not have that skill at all.
Thank you and enjoy your day!
Steve Probelski
Thank you for sharing this! I would love to see a video on propellers, nose blocks, and all that.
Thx. Will add to the list.
Oh, thanks for this, Tom!
As a kid I wondered why rubber kits came with so much extra rubber. I cut the rubber down to fit the model like a toy wind up plane. No wonder I never got them to fly! LOL. I started building again but for micro RC. Yet I really miss the adventure of rubber FF. You sir are showing me tips I never knew about. Please keep them coming. I just bought a 20 inch FF ruber and plan to keep it rubber. I now need to find a FF winder, lube and some aluminum tubing.
I LOVED this one. From a french "old" viewer. Thank youy!
Thank you for sharing the fruits of many years of experience.
Thanks for the very helpful video. Any other tutorials would be greatly appreciated
Thx. More to come as time allows.
Thank you! Great to learn the correct way from a true craftsman!
Poetry... just bloomin lovely 😍
Very good information for us who are just learning the joy of free flight. I enjoy my electric R/C planes but these are exciting because you never know what comes next.
Thank you…. Thank you so much for this!!! I am overwhelmed with your magnanimity…. Much obliged for this…. I dare say at the risk of sounding selfish…Looking forward for more if possible… thank you again!
Thx.
Que bueno max cuanta dedicacion y pasion es admirable un abraso
Gracias. Me alegro que hayas disfrutado de la película.
Excellent instructions. How do you determine the size ie width and thickness? Could you please explain and demonstrate how you print the tissue? And which printer and ink you use? I enjoy your building and flight videos. Thanks
I like to use the 25% to 35% weight of the model approach, to determine my motors. You will quickly see if a cross section needs to be more or less..or if the rubber can go longer or needs to be shorter. Most of my motors for mid-sized models are 2 loops. I'd suggest taking any model that u have, weigh it without rubber, then make a motor that fits the 25-35% mark. Also start with at least 2X the hook to peg length for the rubber, before braiding. That will put u in the ball park. I like Epson printers with the Durabrite inks, which are waterproof.
Thank you for the tips. This will certainly help me get longer flights. I like the greasy bag technique. I've used a silicone aerosol before, but that looks like a much better idea.
Thx, Richard. I like the bag too, after years of using my fingers with that lube. Uses surprisingly little from the tube, perhaps only 1/2" length of lube for most smaller motors.
Thank You for this video. I was looking for something like this.
Superb tutorial. Thanks very much.
Thank you for making these videos. They are greatly appreciated.
I am enraptured by it all. This PREMIERE! video is the best performance yet of humanity and aviation story; entirely factual, instructive and outstandingly valuable by that alone. But literarily it is poetic and visually stunning, even the music is perfectly suited. But wait! What is the aircraft he so carefreely whips around, but an impeccably produced aircraft that, among many millions I've witnessed in hundreds of ways, was the best. His model here is among the most beautiful and wondrous of all I've ever seen.
Most of that PREMIERE beauty is enhanced or appreciated with knowledge that the model shown here is a combination of 3 guidance, aeronautically, historically and materially and, with just those instructions, the model builder/designer has created/produced the result: greater than just the sum of it's parts. The Fokker replica is almost as exquisite and plain gorgeous as a Faberge egg, yet historically flawless too. Further, all this rubberband braiding are brilliant adaptations to exchange a gas chemical internal combustion engine and fuel, the aircraft's power source to something entirely suitable for THIS aircraft, size, scale, type and purpose altogether - off the shelf. Even further, his uncanny, DIY innovative rubber band cotton-djinn miracle machine braider is to the innovation and improvement of rubberband engines as turbocharging and super tuning and designing their real counterparts. Further too, is this all is entirely green leaving no discernible footprints at any point in the pursuit's to limitless excesses; environmentally-, children/family-friendly, at least. I am enthralled by it all, after all. Bravo!
That was a flight to be proud of!
Thank you very much for the lesson! I am excited do see new videos of the series.
Aussi je suis le seul à pratiquer cette passion sur mon île. Merci beaucoup pour cette belle démonstration et à très bientôt.
a thousand years from now people will still be making model airplanes and watching your videos.
Haha...hope so.
This is Great! Thank you for your effort putting this together for the rest of us.
Thanks Tom, I know how much work this was to plan, edit and create. Love your simple motor stuffing sticks! I' make that way from now on.
Many thanks, Stefan. I gather random content each time I fly, in hopes of using it for future films, so initially it doesn't take that much time. But then the Editing Monster stops over unexpectedly at the studio...and there's no way around him. Ha. I have to be in the right mood, but then it's fun...and rewarding. Glad the troops enjoy them. Was good to see u at Wawa. Been far too long since I was in DC with the Maxecuter crowd.
Very unique and precise! I love 💗 this hobby! For the love of details! You are the “mastermind”! Salud 🥂!
Thanks. Big help to those of us who are starting out in Rubber Power.
You build the most wouderful models an it raises my interest in rubber and free flight so one of my next projects will lead in this direction. thx 4 sharing these wounderful pictures that are really poison for my phantasie ;-) cheer Matze
Thank you so much from Dayton, Ohio! This is the sort of information I need, and think many people attempting a build planes like this, need. I build and fly rubber models but I'm in no way to your level. One of the barriers I have is getting good "speciality" supplies... for example: 1) that small diameter aluminum tubing; 2) the props; 3) the tissue; 4) good kits; 5) the winders; 5) De-thermalizer; etc. Thanks again
Thx. I appreciate the feedback. I'd suggest checking the Easy Built or Volare websites. Both have good kits along with the supplies u would need to get back into building. Their web addresses are in the description below the film.
@@maxfliart Thanks. I didn't realize this was listed. Thanks.
Great video and lesson. Thanks!
Pure gold. I learned so much. And I was entertained at the same time. Thank you
I do not ave any idea on flying scale model planes. But it is being a pleasure to watch your videos!
I still have big "???" over my head and in my mind how you brade the rubber bands? I think my mind just snapped! I joined your model club on FaceBook a while back and I love ever model you build. I haven't much experience flying yet. No place near me leagally to fly without the Police popping up telling me to leave. Plus I'm trying to start my hobby back up after 38 years absent.
This series is really great. Thanks so much for sharing some of your knowledge. I am not near any free flight flier groups so I don't get any personal experience shared with me. Thanks again!!!
Thank you so much Tom. You are a great teacher for us!
I had a Tipsy Nipper plane just like on the thumbnail. It was a kit that had a 2:1 gear ratio that automatically went to 1:1 when winding the rubber band. Quick to wind and flew for a while. It was a fun plane to fly.
Thank you so much for sharing your tips. I am keeping this video for future reference. 👍👍👍👍
Thanks and looking forward to all your future Basic Primer. Your techniques are so simply explained! Entices me to explore rubber power.
That was very informative. Thank you for taking the time!
This is a fantastic idea! Detailed tutorials are rare on this subject. I plan on building the Altair but I know I'll struggle with the wing root fillets that you made look so beautiful; all advice welcome!
Thx for the kind words. I'll add fillets to the list. The Altair is a great flyer, loads of fun!
Hello, it's a pleasure to greet you from Guadalajara, Mexico and congratulate you on the great work and teaching that you share with us; I will be very grateful if you teach us how to build the empennage system of an airplane so that the elevator goes up and goes down on its own and thus not lose the plane. Thanks.
This video is pure gold. I took notes. Thank you very much.
A few more questions:
1. I am guessing that maximum winds must be determined by winding a sacrificial motor to destruction?
2. "A properly braided motor at rest should not touch the bottom of the fuselage." At 3:31 it looks like the motor is much longer than that. Was that appearance only because part of the motor was stretched tight on the insertion stick? Wait at 12:27 the braided motor at rest also seems to be much longer than nose to rear peg length. Can you explain this discrepancy?
3. On another visit could you show us about crocket hooks? When are they useful and when are they not?
I'm so glad for ur questions, as they allow me to clarify a few things. Wishing I could re-edit the film... Let's start with #2. The benefit of a braided motor shows itself after the motor is installed, wound up, then flown and is fully unwound. That's when the motor's tension, created by the braids, will lead to a foreshortening of the motor, and suspend itself between the hook & rear peg. This is what allows the CG to remain the same throughout the power portion and through the transition to the glide. Winding forward with the braids is the key. Reverse winding is far less effective, on longer motors at least. #1, yes, it's always good to wind a chosen motor to the breaking point. Various grids show the winds per inch, but not until you crank up the motor 'til it's rock hard or if it breaks, will u truly know. #3, crocket hooks make it easier to attach a motor to the prop hook. Some use it for all of their models, but I only use them on 3 loop & 4 loop motors, since it's difficult to hold them when full wound, and thread the needle, so to speak, with the prop hook.
@@maxfliart
Thank you, I understand the use of the crocket hook and I understand that there are winding tables which can help one make make an estimate of maximum winds. I further understand that the shortening effect of braiding is not fully apparent until after winding and unwinding
for flight a time or two
I want to confirm that I understand FORWARD WINDS. I take that to mean winding in the direction one would wind the motor to store power for flight.
Again thank you very much for your patient teaching.
@@robertrussellmd Yes, that's correct. Forward braiding is winding the motor in the same direction as u would for powered flight.
This is awesome. Thanks for putting the work in to make it for us!
Thanks for this. The difference this kind of content will make to the results of soo many people out there is immeasurable but I'm sure pretty significant.
How many beautiful models get built but never get past a trim session let alone attain those first beautiful level turns around you as it climbs out.
The dark art of rubber handling and the trim flights.
One intriguing to me is the model flight path. What causes the choice of under power circle right or left ?
Is this determined by model type by design before building as in thrust offset or on the day based on the models natural inclination to turn assuming you have it neutral thrust on prop left or right.
Regardless thanks.
Thx for ur comments. For a long time, I had tried to 'force' my models into a right pattern, against initial torque, since I noticed that many models that flew to the left under power didn't climb because of the torque burst. To me, that was waisted power. When my models went to the right during the power burst, they were climbing. Now I feel differently. I still try for a right-right pattern, but if the model shows me that she wants to go left, I'm more willing to follow her lead. I never build a model with the intention of one direction or the other. It's easy enough to change the pattern via thrust, wingtip weight and gurney flaps.
I've been having some badly behaved 16 1/2 inch wingspan but I actually built in some down thrust and right thinking that's required but I wont do that again I'll make it neutral and adjust from there.
I suspect it's a lefty for some reason.
Thanks again that's good to know.
this was fabulous, thank you so much for the instructions and the video image quality was superb.
I hate to look a gift horse in the mouth considering this video is in the top 1% of quality for TH-cam, but a tripod or monopod for the camera operator would make the model much easier to see and watch during the inflight segment
started with rubber 70 years ago went through all the other styles back to rubber FF is the best
Thx, John. Sounds like you've seen it all, and have a lot of air time! I feel the same about FF. Pure & simple.
Thank you for amazing video! It is amazing that you are sharing your wisdom and helping other people who want to start with this amazing hobby. Although the video contains plenty of useful information, I have some questions i would like to have answer for:
1. Why do you lube the rubber band? And do you lube it before every flight or only if the band is new?
2. How do you determine max winds for the band?
3. How do you determine the required number of loops for certain model?
4. When you were installing rubber band into the Junkers, you inserted it through a paper tube. What is the tube for? Is it to prevent damage of the fuselage in case the band ruptures?
If anybody knows the answers, please help me and answer. Thank you:).
Hi. U only need to lube a motor once. Max winds are partly determined thru years of experience, but I've included a generic rubber turns calculator in the film description. For many models in the 20" to 28" range, two loops will probably get you there. But I also determine the rubber size & length according to the weight of the model, without the motor in it. Shoot for a motor that is at least 2 times the length of the prop hook to the rear peg....and around 25% the weight of the empty model. That's a good place to start. For the Junkers I was using what is called a blast tube. And ur right, it's for protection against a blown motor...especially as you get closer to the max winds for a given motor.
@@maxfliart Thank you very much!
Thanks again (time #2) Hopefully it will be warm enough on Monday in Nashville for some free flight time!
I've a few films to catch up with on your excellent channel Josh-something to look forward to over Christmas! Truly the Wakefield is a classic. This 1 blade prop certainly works well. Nice restoration! Happy Christmas to you and all the family. 🎄⭐👍
The guy who thumbed down this video flies foam
Thanks for such free flight greatness. Please keep up the great work!
You should consider installing a super micro 2 channel radio control system in your larger models to do more than just aerial turns. You wouldn’t need a very big battery for a 60-80 second flight. This would allow you to take advantage of thermos and wind.
I couldn't agree with Neale Unruh more. this was great, and I need so much more instruction and tips I can't find elsewhere.
Great video. Can you do a short one on the Crochet hook and how to make or purchase. Could show how you switch from winder to prop hook if that is what it is for.
Also is there formula for calculating Max windings for various rubber sizes( 1/8th,3/16th, to 1/4 ). Say, 3 loops of 1/8th over 2 loops of 3/16th.
Thanks, you inspire us all.
Thx for the comment, Ken. Here's the calculator table that I have listed above in the film description. hallmanstudio.com/rubber_turns_calculator.pdf
Here's the source from crocket hooks. www.faimodelsupply.com/product/crocket-hook-medium/
Your videos are always inspiring. I've been building free flight rubber for about 5 years now and I'm always in awe of your builds. THANK YOU for demonstrating how to braid a single loop. I've always wondered how to do that. I'm still a little bit confused regarding of the overall length after braiding - I guess I'm not making my rubber motors long enough because yours seem about 1.5 the length of motor to peg after braiding? Mine are usually only slightly longer than the length of motor to peg.
Thx for the kind words. Yes, you need to make the loops 2.5 to 3 times the length of the prop hook to the rear peg 'before' braiding. Then once they are braided, prior to winding for a flight, the relaxed braided motor will likely be the 1.5 that you saw. But once you wind the motor, and it unwinds inside the model, it will suspend itself evenly between the front & rear pegs. That's the beauty of braiding, as it allows you to use a much longer motor, which gives you many more winds, leading to longer flights, without bunching and changing the center of gravity. So try a longer motor, and braid it. You'll see how well it can work. Good luck, and have fun!
@@maxfliart I most certainly will. The increased run time should really improve flight times!
Thanks a lot for your all your GREAT videos, now it's very clear for me wich was not the case when i was a kid ... THANKS🙏!!! Let's FLY !!! 😉 Sam
I always had an idea of having a shorter stiffer rubber motor but installing a gearing system in the nose to get a lot more propeller turns for each turn of the rubber.
This was a very informative video for me! Thank you for showing and explaining how to do this.
I am new to rubber motor planes and need to keep learning.
Where can I buy the rubber and winder in the USA?
Many thanks. Your nose block tutorial was very helpful. Can you tell me the difference between forward and, presumably, backward winding / braiding is? Thanks again.
Forward braiding means you are adding the braids by winding in the same direction as you would normally wind the motor. It's far better than winding the reverse or backwards direction when making the braids. Winding forward creates the best tension for the motor to unwind and relax evenly, which keeps the model's center of gravity constant throughout the flight. If you wind backwards for the braids, it will still create tension, but not enough to maintain the CG.
@@maxfliart Thanks for the reply. Should have read the rest of the posts first. Glad I wasn't the only one with the question though.
You are a master of this craft. Would love to someday meet you at a Flying Aces Nats.
Man I like that blue plane. I really love homebuilts
Thank you for your great experience sharing.
I don't have idea what are you doin but it works!