Number 1 Silverado Issue - How To Fix GMC and Chevy Frame Rust and Undercoating Sierra Tahoe
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2019
- The number 1 complaint (although it is a very tight race with the AFM and condenser issues) I have with my truck is the worthless undercoating that General Motors puts on their Chevy and GMC trucks. It is a wax based undercoating that quickly hardens and flakes off of the frame. You can look under brand new Silverados and Sierras sitting on dealer lots and already see rust starting to form where the wax did not adhere well.
This is particularly frustrating for vehicles, such as mine, that call the rust belt home. It has received enough notice and generated a similar quantity of complaints, that GM has, in some cases, re-coated the frames of particularly badly rusting trucks. Unfortunately, they simply use the exact same wax material and rarely prepare the service correctly by removing the rust and old wax. Since the wax does a poor job of bonding and air-locking the already formed rust, this only masks the problem for it to return worse a few months later.
In this video, we show you how to fix this problem correctly so that you will have a rust free frame for many years to come. All of the products we used are listed below.
Although not shown in this video, I have heard very good things about this at home DIY Undercoating Sprayer: No Paint Booth Required! amzn.to/2LBi7vO
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👉🏼 LINKS TO PURCHASE TOOLS & PARTS FEATURED BELOW👈🏼
#SilveradoFrameRust #SilveradoDIY #2014Silverado
⚠️Try anything shown in this video at your own risk ⚠️
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Associated Videos
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How To Remove Silverado Bed, Tailgate, and Rear Bumper 2014 - 2018: • How To Remove Silverad...
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🔩Parts (Affiliate Links)
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Step 1: Strip Frame
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Step 2: Degrease/Clean
POR-15 40101 Cleaner Degreaser:
amzn.to/2KWTf1I
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Step 3: Prep
POR-15 40201 Metal Prep:
amzn.to/30dLcBA
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Step 4: Paint
1 Gallon POR15 Paint: amzn.to/2RUh0rT
1 Qt POR15 Paint: amzn.to/2xrNNLE
Note: Two (2) quarts should be enough to do the entire frame. POR recommends a shelf life of 6 months if stored correctly
Eastwood Internal Frame Coating:
www.eastwood.com/eastwood-int...
Note: Four (4) cans should be enough to do the all of the frame rails and hard to reach places.
__________________
Step 5: Undercoat
POR-15 49308 Rubberized Spray UnderCoating: amzn.to/30fi3G7
Note: Five (6) cans should do the entire frame
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Tools (Affiliate Links)
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Milwaukee Cordless Impact 2861-20 M18 Fuel: amzn.to/2Lb9tQZ
DIY At Home Undercoating Sprayer: amzn.to/2LBi7vO
Tarp (Covering truck and Floor): amzn.to/2LG96Sd
3M Dual Cartridge Respirator Assembly: amzn.to/2KYBU8V
Spray Bottle: amzn.to/2xwsxVe
Heavy Duty Nitrile gloves: amzn.to/2YwNNpz
Paint Pail: amzn.to/2xw0RQ8
Paint Pail Inserts: amzn.to/30cvmXO
Paint Brushes: amzn.to/2RVOPsP
Wire Wheel: amzn.to/2xs4ruE
Wire Brush: amzn.to/2LzdF0o
Razor Blade Scraper Style 1: amzn.to/2LCcBsG
Razor Blade Scraper Style 2: amzn.to/2JbrwID
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Aputure A.lav Lavalier
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![Repairing a Rusty Frame on a GMT800 Truck [Cheap Duramax Part 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YK8Mq6HWOwI/mqdefault.jpg)
YES!!! THIS VIDEO IS FINALLY HERE! Can’t wait to do this to my Silverado. Thanks gents!
Haha no problem! Sorry it took so long to get up! Very glad I did it to my truck 😁 just have to do the front half still
@@TheSundaeDrive do a video on the front
I will be. I'm going to show how to lift the cab etc but it probably won't be until next summer. Working on the AFM delete right now so those videos will be coming out next
@@TheSundaeDrive Can't wait. I'm currently in the process of doing my rear end and following your video! Thanks. I'm sure I'll follow your video for the front as well
@@AndrewKellman awesome! One thing I would do differently. Score/rough up the surface thoroughly and apply lots of metal prep to any bare metal to make sure you get the best bond of the por15
Best video on GM truck frame corrosion prevention I've seen. Thanks a lot. Good job.
Thanks! It was a lot of work but worth it. Only thing I would have done differently would have been to score the surface a bit before using the metal prep to help the paint have the best bond possible. Now I just have to do the front half 😬
thank you. I just bought a silverado 2500HD and I wanted to add a spray on bed liner and gooseneck to my bed. One thing I noticed when inspecting the truck was that the frame was in rough shape. I was just telling my buddy that I wanted to remove the bed so that I could fix the frame rails correctly. I didn't know there was such a problem with their manufacturing process. You really enlightened me to another fix. Fortunate for my buddy he is in the same boat.
Glad it helped give you some insight. Frustrating after spending so much that it takes this much work to fix properly.
The Sundae Drive have you ever tried the vibrating metal fingers tool? I saw another video where he used those. Just curious before I get started
Excellent videoes! My step dad was just given a 2007 gmc sierra regular cab long bed for free by my brother in law. The trucks transmission is bad so we are taking our time and are going to be doing some resto on the frame of the truck. Keep up the great work!
Awesome! Sounds like a good project 👍 best of luck with it!
I am doing my 2017 Silverado tomorrow using this Video!!! I ordered everything with the links you provided and have a shop taking off the bed since I don't have any help sadly. But I will be doing this outside under a canopy so fingers crossed on that part. I searched for nearly 2 months and this was the best way to do it in my opinion. A shop was going to charge me $3600 to do it so i figured id give it a try. Wish me luck and thank you for this advice!
Best of luck with it! Take your time and prep the metal and you'll be good!
@@TheSundaeDrive Will do! Thank you! Ill let you know how i did
The wire brush is good because after you scrape it across the surface of the metal, you're actually smoothing over small pores in the metal, which makes it harder for the metal to rust as easily.
Absolutely well done video. My 2017's wax frame is already peeling off and exposing rust around welds and cracks. You inspired me to do the same to mine!
It's definitely a lot of work but I think well worth the effort. Hopefully it helps you when you go to do yours!
Great video and good work ...I have done the same process u did many times before on all different brands of trucks usually takes around three years and the por will start to peel off and trap salt and moisture and accelerate the rust .the best thing I've used is New Hampshire oil once a year it is messy to work on the truck but worth it ...the wax coating stays soft and never peels off .I get compliments all the time on how well the frame looks, the truck is a 2015 Silverado and I live in the northeast.
I may use the oil method on the front half and start adding it to the rear as well. Good tips!
I have a 2001 Chevy silverado and the shocks fell off because so much rust it only has 75,000 miles on it and I can't get a sticker is there anyone who can fix it and how much will cost me
Legit! Can't wait to see the front cab video. My 2017 isn't so bad but i did notice some spots and im really debating on doing this. The reason i hesitated is that doing something like this is going to void manufacture warranty. Now seeing the small area of surface rust is making me really want to do this.
wow nice job on the frame. yea i cringe when look under my Silverado plus i noticed that a cross member needs a weld repair. thanks for the video good motivation thanks for giving me a push
You got it man! Best of luck with your truck!
I’ll be taking a vacation this June I want to do this to my Silverado great video
Thanks! It's a lot of work but worth it if done right.
I bought my 2017 HC new and it was completely rust proofed everywhere, with Krown. It still looks brand new, no rust and none of the wax coating peeled. The undercoating seemed to have stopped the wax from peeling.🤔 Great video.
Glad to hear it! Good to know that it is holding up well!
@@TheSundaeDrive Sorry, how's yours holding up after this? I suspect good after all the work you done
@@anthonymacneil2279 good so far!
Seeing this makes me cringe as my 2008 GMC Sierra is in much worse shape. You’ve done an excellent job with this!!
Definetely frustrating. Thank you tho!
You mentioned doing a long term review of this, so how’d it turn out?
This is something I need to do. Thought of using Ospho(spelling) and then just painting it with a textured paint of choice.
Hi my name is Verne, I just wanted to tell you fantastic video and I really like the frame in your truck and fully believe this is the best way to go on my truck, anyway you did and the frame looks fantastic.
Verne Johnson 😊.
How did you clean/prep the inside of the frame rails?
Great video thanks my 2018 gmc elevation is in body shop now they are taking box off to hope they work at it as good as you did terrible though 4 yrs old and have to do this to my pickup
Best of luck with it! Make sure they drop the fuel tank too!
This is the best well work done 👍✅
Thanks!!
Nice job. I would advise against POR-15 and rubberized products. Rubberized undercoating turns porous over time and actually holds water like a sponge. Por-15 peels over time. I recommend an oil based enamel, topcoated with a cosmoline product.
I may change it out at some point in the next couple of years. Going to be doing more research and doing a follow up video
I've done a ton of research on this and I agree I would not use a rubberized undercoating over your finished por 15. I'd go with the a lanolin a based product like Wholwax. It locks the moisture out, doesn't dry - it does need to be reapplied every two years but it'll work a lot better in the long run than any rubberized coating.
So I've started doing that this past year. Need to really finish the front half tho. Much harder to work on but need to do it
Great video!😎👍👍
Thanks! Took a lil longer to get up than planned lol
That looks so freaking nice. I can’t wait to take care of my new trucks frame. I bought a 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 4 x 4 and the frame looks so terrible it’s nasty and rusted. I want to make it look new again.
A lot of work for sure but take your time with it and it will turn out nice
The reason you stir it rather than shaking is to reduce air bubble formation in the coating
Thanks!
My 2017 serria had rust appearing when I bought it off the lot .... I have had many cheve trucks... I had the same complaint with all of them and all my trucks were well looked after
Amazing video... thank you so much. When will you be doing the cab?! Do you think there is any way to do this to your Silverado without removing the cab?
Within the next year or so hopefully. You could work around everything on the ground but it would be pretty hard to get everywhere well
Hey thanks for this video, I just finished doing this on my truck and it was a huge help!! I was wondering if you're still planning on pulling the cab of this truck and showing that as well. I want to know how big of a project pulling the cab is and if I should just half ass the front half of the frame or not lol
I'd like to. It's just a matter of finding the time. In the meantime I might fluid film it or something similar until I can remove it.
Can you still drive if the car is rusted but the frame is good?
Will be doing this on my ‘16 1500.
I’m not sold on using the product POR 15, but wouldn’t it still make sense to use the degreaser and the metal prep regardless of the final product used?
Nice video. Again didn't even think about having bad rust protection on the frame when I bought my 2018 silverado. How did you do the frame under the cab?
Haven't done it yet but it's definitely planned. Probably later this year or next. Lot of content we are working on so have to space out the bigger jobs like that one.
Did por 15 stick did peel or have any problems? I had a 78. Trans Am and I had issues with it. Some of it stuck real well. Some of it Didn’t it probably was me. I’m getting ready to do a 2012 GMC Denali just got it scraped and getting ready to paint was going to go with Summit racing chassis paint but would rather use por 15 if it works
POR15 is a great product. POR stands for paint over rust.
It dries from the inside out so there's no porosity. Regular paint dries from the outside in so as the VOCs evaporate they have to come through the dried exterior.
It's also tough as nails. You can hit it with a hammer and not affect it.
I've never used the surface prep. Always used it on seasoned metal. Light coat of rust. It bonds best to that rough textured surface.
I found that multiple coats work best if you just allow the 1st coat to just set up. If it dries it won't even stick or etch into itself. Lacquer thinner won't take it off Once dry. And it will never come off concrete. Or your skin. Make sure you do the bed and rockers and cab corners. Labor intensive but great results.
The fluid film is similar to the waxy coating but requires reoeated applications used in snow removal equipment industries. Another company is Rohmar products they have a product called Lubriseal. It sticks like undercoating and seals it very well.
Thanks for the tips! Definetely tough stuff
I cleaned my 03 and used correseal then sprayed boiled linseed oil and Rust-Oleum so far so good
Thanks good info on this video my 2009 Silverado needs to have this done to it lot cheaper then buying a new truck
Yeah, prices right now are crazy.
Maybe i missed it but i thought POR15 has a metal prep that you are supposed to apply to the bare metal/rust before applying the actual paint?
Yes it does and we apply it in the video 👍 that is a critical step
So whats the price off this job if I take this to a body shop I want to do this to my 16 sierra 1500
Great job! Question, how long did the whole process take?
Did it over a long weekend. I think about 3 days total. Would have been faster without filming but you have to let the coats dry between applying anyways
@@TheSundaeDrive how many hours total would you estimate ? Thanks !
#1 silverado issue: waves & valleys that form in the paper thin sheet metal GM started using in 2014. The frame can rust all day & will last a lifetime; ever heard of a broken silverado frame? Me either, so you can keep this expensive time consuming project. Respect for the amount of patience & free time you have.👍
I live in Montana and this just isn’t an issue. We don’t salt our roads here. I’ve been looking at the frames of 2-20 year old GM trucks around here and every one of looked just fine.
Best way is to sandblast, spray metal prep (etching), let sit as directed then rinse thoroughly, allow to flash rust over since por15 and chassis saver actually need rust for adhesion, apply coats with a sponge (way easier than a paint brush), allow to dry.
And DO NOT open the can like he did! Drill a small hole on top and pour into a smaller cup size of your choice. Then immediately cover that hole with duct tape. It cures with air so do leave what you aren’t using immediately exposed to oxygen.
Good tips but shouldn't you mix the POR15 tho before pouring it out? You'll need the lid off to mix.
@@TheSundaeDrive listen to this man. he knows the drill. i would buy a 6 pack of smaller cans.
Biggest mistake I ever made in my life was buying a Chevy Silverado from Vanbortel. Chevrolet. A little over 2 years old and the frame started rusting out and they agreed to fix it under a TSB. Well 3 months later they still have it and have not touched it. Now say they can't fix it per the TSB because they don't have equipment and GM has not trained any employees. They checked and no other dealer in the area will touch it. The only option is to have Ziebart patch it up without the Chevy warranty. Totally made a mistake buying a over 60k Chevy and buying from Vanbortel. New Silverados are rust buckets in a little over 2 years so do some research before considering one
Oh man - that sounds terrible. I feel like at this point they should owe you a new vehicle. How can they keep it for 3 months and just now tell you they can't do anything with it.
@@TheSundaeDrive For 3 months they said it was being worked on and would be finished soon. Turns out they were lying and trying to find a big dealer with a body shop to do it but none will touch the job saying it will never be right again after disassembly to fix right. GM doesn't doesn't care even though it's covered by a tsb. Stuck with a lemon.
I think you can get lemon law involved. I don't know what they mean it won't ever be right again tho, that doesn't make any sense. You remove the cab and bed, strip and spray it and done. Not rocket science. Dealers are lazy.
Unless the rust is so bad it needs a new frame but If that is the case I would hope gm would cover it but then again, I have my doubts lol
Is there anything else you can use besides diesel fuel?
Looking to upgrade from my old cherokee, rust isnt new, a familiar word. However, this wax thing. Very sad. I am looking to move to a 2005 ish Silverado. In terms of the products you just mentioned, por-15 can be expensive and other products may be opted for. However, I swear by the metal prep and a MUST have. I use a basic Mastercraft flux core welder, and makes my welding experience so much better. I don't know about gas, but in terms of flux core it was the best 10$ cad I've spent compared to having to import welding primer through amazon, metal prep was readily available just about everywhere.
Very very true!
Hey there. I have an 11’ with a little bit of surface rust on the frame and some suspension components. Is there any way to stop the corrosion without taking off the bed? I don’t really have the manpower or space to do it myself. Thanks!
Get off as much rust as you can, paint it, then spray everything with a protective coating like fluid film. Be careful which components you get it on tho. Fit example, fluid film can cause some rubber to swell so you'll want to avoid rubber if you use that
Are you ever gonna do the under cab frame?
Yes. I'll make a video when I do. It probably won't be until next year tho.
How did this hold up?
POR 15 is crazy stuff. I laughed at the end of the video when it looks like you got some on your face. I had some splash and hit my ear....took over 2 weeks for it to finally come off. Stuff is nuclear. I'd wear a bio-hazard suit if I was gonna attempt what you just did. Its the best coating you can get though, hands down. If a truck manufacturer teamed up with POR 15 and made that their standard for frame and underbody coating straight from the factory.....they would rule the world.
Agreed! Haha the stuff I got on me took forever to come off. Fingers crossed it holds up as well on the frame as it did on my 😉 I am still going to hit everything with some fluid film to be safe but I think between these two, my frame should be sealed up pretty well. I just have to get the front half done now. I wish automotive manufactures would do that but no one keeps their vehicle's long enough for them to care 🤦🏼♂️
But then the trucks would last too long and then you would not have to but another from them.
Lol hit the nail on the head
We’re you able to get to the front of the frame?
Any updates so far on the quality? I had to start gutting my 2006 silverados truck bed today as I was going to put on a bedliner, I removed the old one in preperation for the spray on and it was rusted almost completely out. The frame is still good but while Im on this project I want to re treat the frame as well. I have heard alot of people say POR15 or just bedline the frame. If yours is still looking as good as it was in the final shot Im going with the POR and then bedliner like you did. Thanks for a great video!
glad you liked the video! I have not really driven the truck enough to give a solid review because of doing the DOD delete - It made it through one winter tho. I will do a review soon tho!
@@TheSundaeDrive Please do!
@@TheSundaeDrivewe’re waiting :)
@@Truthloveliberty no issues so far! I need to pull the bed off soon and do under the fuel tank but with the winter here in NJ will probably not be until the spring sadly.
Another thing about the wax frame that's really awesome is when you climb under your truck to do an oil change or anything for that matter.. shit gets all over your shirt and arms from the frame. And will never come off. Thanks GM!
A 2014 with this much rust on the frame in 2019. Absolutely poor quality from GM. And to think folks pay the amounts of money the do for these rust buckets.
Some newer ones are even worse. Never buy new lol. I got mine used and glad I did. Every company has its problems. Tacoma's break in half lol. Problem is the throw away mentality. No one keeps anything for more than 5 years.
Shame, these trucks are meant to last until the warranty expires and not much else. I bought a 2002 Avalanche brand new and babied it - the entire truck rusted away to nothing,.
😢 that stinks. Trying to avoid having that happen to this truck as best as possible
@@TheSundaeDrive GM's are the same as the old Tacoma, tundras and sequoias. The newer ones are much better after the lawsuit. I've seen enough rotted Silverado that I'm surprised there isn't a class action lawsuit against them.
@@willc5979 All that pickups are now e-coated, except GM. But Gm is at way doing it. They adding it to plants.
I’ve heard rubberized undercoating isn’t the best due to it drying out, cracking and holding moisture. Is this application different because you totally stripped the frame down and repainted?
It still isn't ideal. You will want to add an additional protective coating yearly regardless of the product you use. Something like fluid film will keep a moisture barrier wherever any weaknesses develop in the POR
I have a 2015 Silverado, 1500, 4X4. I live in Oklahoma. I don't know if the rust would be as severe on my frame or not, since I live in Oklahoma. Thanks for the video
Your truck's frame probably won't be as bad since I don't think they use salt or brine or on the roads out there. From the 6 months I spent in Oklahoma tho, I know you guys do get a lot of moisture (rain, snow, hail, etc) so yours will still corrode in time but not at the same rate as mine.
POR 15 is a wonderful product, not for frames thought. I use an oil based spray on mine, seeps and creeps. Only downside it needs to be redone every year or two.
I plan to do that on top of the por15. It's not a leave it and done solution for sure. If you want it to last, you need to apply and oil based spray on top of whatever you treat the base with.
If you have access to the fuel pump, make sure you coat it with something to prevent rust!
How do you adjust the bed ? I have a brand new 2019 LD and the bed is off to one side.....
I didn't have any issues putting it back on. My alignment pins centered it up for me
Did you do the cab section of the frame as well or just the bed?
I will be doing the can section at some point. Haven't yet.
Great video!!! I found out my spare tire crossmember had badly rusted requiring replacement. The back side of the spare's rim was also badly corroded and had to be replaced. I don't understand why GM doesn't offer an undercoating service to recoat the frame with the wax material. There are certainly better coatings available, but if you keep on top of the coating and retouch it, it would mitigate most of the issues. How many people can afford or are able to remove the bed on their truck and clean this mess up? It looks great when done, but what a butt load of work!
Re-application will do nothing to help the issue where the original layer is cracked and separated from the metal. It must be removed.
@@SNELLERIZED not doing anything to correct it, or at very least recommending to re-coat it within a specified interval, doesn't help either.
Did you consider hiring a dustless blasting company (or renting a machine) to blast the frame instead of removing the wax by hand? How did you remove the wax from the center "tube" part of the frame? Did you apply any coating to the bed or recommend anything? I have a 2017 that's showing very early signs of rust on the spot welds on the underside of the bed. Thanks for the videos, keep up the good work! Looking forward to the cab removal video!
Just spray original wax yearly. Why would you go out of yours way with that.
My transmission just went out on my 2014 Silverado at 109k for the second time. Can you do a video on what the root cause and permanent repair would be?
Awe man that stinks! If you tow a lot I would suggest upgrading to a larger pan for better cooling. I would also swap out to a bad fluid like amsoil as soon as possible and change it regularly. I will definitely look into this tho and see about making a video. I hope this doesn't happen to mine 😭
Trade it off and get an f150 with a 10 speed a lot better truck than the chevys
Update on what the issue is, it is the torque converter failing. I have a video coming out on it
@@nickcary7175 lol thats why the 10 speed is already being discontinued
How has it held up over time? Any bubbling or rust coming through?
I'm planning to pull the bed off soon and do an update for you all. As much as I can see it is holding up well
How long did this take you in total?
I had someone help with the frame cleaning and first coat. Did it over 4 days. Removing the bed was about 2 hours. All the work on the frame took about 25 man hours, and two hours to put it back together. I was also filming a lot of it so that slowed me down a bit.
Could you use a sandblaster to take off the undercoating
I would imagine so
How much did it cost total just for degreaser, metal prep, paint etc just only all the por 15 supplies in the video
Prices have change a lot but probably around $100-$120 - parts are linked in the description so you can pull up the current pricing
Where in the North East are you from? And do you have your own shop to do this?
NJ and no 😔 we don't do this professionally. There are better products to use if getting it done professionally 👍👍
My son used this product 7 years ago on his ford frame and I cant belleville it looks like the day he put it on prep prep prep is the key I see n some guys use it and in one year it pealed off they said they did the steps but obviously something was skipped
That's good to hear that with the right prep it holds up well. I've been concerned after hearing everyone saying it peeled off for them. Hopefully my prep was thorough enough!
@@TheSundaeDrive Peeled off because they didn't rough up the metal. Nothing will stick to smooth metal
Still in the middle of cleaning everything off of mine. Was there some spots you couldn’t get the wax off ? Will the por still adhere over it ?
I would get off as much as possible. You could always get a small media blaster to get in the corners
it will not adhere to an improperly prepared surface
Couldn't you just spray the frame every year with Fluid Film?
Yes that will work for sure but you have be careful because it eats the the wax so you may need to apply multiple times the first few years. The downside is that any service on your truck becomes very messy
@@TheSundaeDrive I agree with the messy part. I have a 2005 that I spray the whole frame, inside the rockers and all inner fenders.
Spray it before summer and winter right before they start salting.
Great video btw, we just treated a 2006 GMC Topkick with POR15 which is going to be used as a salt truck. We still coat it with Fluid Film after.
@@TheSundaeDrive Would it eat away the wax? It's safe for plastics. It's the only rust prevention product I've seen that's safe for use on farm equipment.
@@AnthonyJ350 I did a lil research when deciding what to do and some people were saying it does but I haven't tested it myself 🤷♂️ I read it on the internet so it must be true right? 😂
@@TheSundaeDrive Ya only time will tell. Your frame looks great after the treatment.
Here in Michigan you find folks parting out trucks with frames broken in half by the dozen on marketplace
:( that's terrible. A truck frame should outlast the rest of the vehicle.
wow that looks great! I wish i had access to a garage to do this. I live in a community that doesn't allow car work in the driveways and i know my 2011 Sierra Frame needs this done. Living in Michigan, i'm sure it's terrible!
Sorry to hear that :( Hopefully you can find a shop that can do it for you!
That's just unAmerican
Many HOAs have some really screwed up rules. Not let a man work on his car...hogwash
That's communist
Great video. But rule no.1 is don’t buy a new truck in the rust belt. Without having a winter beater.
Dang! I just bought a 2015 2500HD with 191,000 miles. There is no wax coating at all left, and my frame looks identical to yours where you flaked off the wax coating. I live north of Spokane. I'll need to do the same as you did within the next couple years. I love the truck, but hate the rust! I swear that wax does nothing but accelerate the rust problem by trapping dirt and moisture underneath. Would have bought a Ford or Dodge, but their engines are JUNK. I love the GM 6.0
How are you addressing under the cab?
I'm planning to lift the cab and do the undercoating at the same time I delete my afm system. Going to be a lot of work but I want to keep the truck for a long time. I'm fortunate enough to have access to a lift which will make the job a lot easier.
What have you done to the truck box? you must have done something to rust proof it?
I have been spraying it with fluid film
@@TheSundaeDrive hey! :) can you resend or do a quick followup on the truck frame? Also how have you done the inside cleaning of the frame and sand it?
I put a video out a few months ago showing an update. It's the fluid film video. That one should show you :)
I'm paying for repair of cross bars and rust removal and coating currently on a 2013 silverado. I was shocked the vars was about rusted into. But they do sell replacement kits. Guys charging me 450.00 to do it all
We are about a year and a half later, how is it holding up? My 17 sierra all came off at the car wash so i am starting this soon
I'll do an update in the spring of 21. Truck has been sitting too much to do a real review. After driving it this winter it will have seen two winters of driving so we do an update then. A quick inspection and it still looks good tho! Make sure to prep the metal properly tho!
@@TheSundaeDrive I bought everything por15 recommends. I dropped the gas tank as well working on getting all the crap off. I used a heated power washer and it took a majority of it off
Any updates on how this held up??
So far so good but we had an extremely mild winter this past year and I didn't drive it much while creating the AFM DOD delete series. I did take it all the way to main and back and drove down about 100 Miles if dirt roads without issue. I plan to pop the bed off in a bit and do an update :)
You said toward the beginning of the video that GM essentially dips their frames in a wax based coating, in order apply such to them, as an undercoating. So I'm wondering, how would one go about removing that wax coating from inside of the frame rails, as well - since I'm assuming that that same, wax based coating, would also, presumably and eventually, harden and chip away from the inside of the rails, too - thereby potentially diminishing the effectiveness of any internal application, of the Eastwood internal Frame Coating Kit product?
Correct, there is wax in the frame. My goals was to add as much protection inside the rails as I could. I plan to add oil on top of my coating in the future. You want to keep it as lubricated as possible to avoid rust build up.
@@TheSundaeDrive Good advise. Thank you for the info and responding. Any ideas how the wax c0ating could be stripped from inside frame?
@@TheSundaeDrive Very wise and good, and sage advise. Meanwhile - and as originally deferred to in my original inquiry - would you happen to know, however, of any practical means, whereby the wax could also be be somehow removed from inside of the the frame rails; as well, prior to internally coating? Sorry to be so repetitive, and please forgive my ignorance, but in order to learn, one has to ask. And so while awaiting your reply, thanks, in advance, for your patient consideration.
I am not sure of a good way to do it. I do know that fuel eats through the wax pretty rapidly. It would probably need to be submerged in something and left to soak to get rid of the wax.
@@TheSundaeDrive Thanks again, for this new follow-up, as well. I'm going to be hanging on to all of this info for future reference, as I've been seriously considering a complete chassis swap-out, for an older '86 GMC Jimmy SLE - for which I'd probably look to someone else to get it done correctly, and professionally - but I'll most likely be wanting to first procure a brand new, OEM stock item to get it done, and fully "prep" such in advance, before passing it on to whoever I hire, to finish the job . . . and this is all part of my early, preparational / research phase . . . so all of this info's very helpful ! :)
How long did it take to do it all?
A lot of time lol. It's been awhile so I can't remember exactly but probably 20+ hours. I'm also not a professional doing this, a shop that specializes in this would be able to do it much faster.
Can i just remove the wax and paint the problem area? Im just some guy and dont have all this ability
you can - you'll just need to touch it up yearly or maybe twice yearly since the paint will harden and wax leftover. Make sure to clean off as much of the rust as you can first.
4 years ago. How’s this held up for you I’m debating if this is worth it. 2016 duramax factory wax. (Michigan)
So far so good but I want to pull off the bed soon and do an inspection. Will update when we do
@@TheSundaeDrive how much would u charge to do same work in a 2018 Silverado single. An short bed ?
What about the frame under the cab so only save half of the truck frame.
On my list to do
why not weld caps on that pipe ???
You could - but any trapped water or condensation wouldn't have a way to escape. Maybe if you could pull a vacuum on it somehow.
Wax is just like paint in many ways. It doesn’t build up a film on sharp edges. The water penetrates the wax on sharp edges and creates rust which creeps under the wax or thin paint bubbles up and pushes it off. Every where they scratch the frame installing a part creates new rust..
True, the wax works well until it is compromised. Unfortunately, it does get hard after time and flake off. If it stayed soft it probably wouldn't be as bad as it is
If you bought new and put por15 over the wax (before corrosion) that would be okay correct?
no, POR 15 instructions must be followed closely or you are wasting your time and money
Agreed. POR won't adhere over wax. If you want to keep the wax you should use a different product
What is the song at 12 mins 10 secs
Fluid film is 45 a gallon spray gun 120 I do my 2010 2 times a year on spots that wash off "wheel wells . Took rubber plugs out of rockers and put half gallon in each when I bought truck live in North East and plow with truck rockers are sold frame is rust free.many people only fluid film the frame but I do entire underside of truck.
Have you had any issues with the wires absorbing the fluid and expanding? Supposedly it's not good to get on the rubber
@@TheSundaeDrive no problems at all .Going on year 6 with no problems with rubber or wires .Only complaint is it will wash off wheel wells . Tried pb blaster surface shield in wheel wells and it held up a little better but could only find in small spray cans so it would be expensive to do a entire truck with surface shield.
Cool thanks for the insight!
looks good
Thanks!
@@TheSundaeDrive no problem, I wanted to do the same thing for a 1990 GMC Sierra. Thanks for sharing this video.
Absolutely
Any suggestions how to clean rust off of the hitch receiver?
It's hard to keep it cleaned because the reciever slides around and continually scrapes off the paint. I just hit it up with a rattle can every once in awhile.
Get Taylor swift to suck it off for you
@@MattMohsOutdoors damn dude, that there was some funny shyte!
I drew a smiley face into the frame wax of a silverado with my fingernail just to exploit it hahahahaha
They have better products out there than POR 15. I use SEM Rust Trap on all the frames I've done and it's way more forgiving and does a crazy good job.
I'm researching into more products. I may redo the rear when I do the front. POR15 Seems like what a lot of guys like but has some drawbacks. From some more research epoxy is looking like a good candidate
Why not do dustless sandblasting?
I use rustoleum paint and primer they work good
That will work too 👍 as long as you keep moisture off of the frame most things will work 👍
Not gonna read all of the comments (430 and counting) but a comment on the stir vs agitate the paint. Take a clear bottle and fill it half full of polyurethane, shellac, varnish, etc that is clear or opaque. Now shake the half full bottle/jar for 1 minute. Note the air bubbles and how they stay suspended. That is why they say stir. Trapped air bubbles works against good product adhesion.
Maybe only my opinion, but also over 40 years experience.
Good point! A few others mentioned that too. Thanks for the input!
If you want to use a cheaper coating advance auto has dupli color brand por 15 that is pretty good, also rustoleum truck bed coating is amazing, only costs $50 a gallon. Always remember to sand the frame before coating or it will just peel off
Definetely need to prep the surface which is what the metal prep solution is for. It etches into the surface 👍
What about the last quarter of the frame?
It's on my list. I plan to lift the cab. and do it proper. There will be a video when that time comes for sure
Where are you located?
NJ
How would you fix the the rust on the front end of the vehicle, considering you can’t remove the cab?
Cover it yearly with a fluid film or something similar and locks out the moisture or lift the cab. I'm planning to figure out how to lift the cab and do it that way.
The Sundae Drive Thank you, I’d love to see a video on how to remove the cab.
@@HateTheIRS me too 😂 going to be an adventure but hoping I can get to it this summer. We will definitely be filming it when we do it. We have the advantage of having a lift so that will help
@@TheSundaeDrive doesn't the fluid film eat away at the wax coating?
Yes, from what I've heard. That's why you need to apply annually
Just a quick tip if u have a handheld butane torch then u can heat the coating with it and you can just wipe the coating off.
Oo, that's good to know! does that put off a lot of fumes?
@@TheSundaeDrive no not that ive ever encountered it just liquifies and can be wiped off.
@@Michael-qx8bz I'm getting ready to do the front half so I'll try that!
@@TheSundaeDrive Cool deal i look foward to seeing how it turns out! Hope this helps you out for sure.
@@Michael-qx8bz us as well!
All the crossmembers are gonna rot first between the tank and the pipes that its hanging below. Why didn't you remove the most important part?
100% agree. Fully regret not doing this. It's on my list to do soon. We will have a video coming out very soon welding a new cross member in Pete's 2004 because that exact thing happened
What about the part of the frame under the cab?
I plan to lift the cab at some point. 👍
Would it be possible to ask GM to fabricate you a stainless frame at time of production?.
Did you also do the front of the truck? I am about to restore my 2004 frame/suspension front to back. Seems like Im going to miss some spots under the truck either way. Still better than the junkyard look haha!
There are some issues up there. I am planning to lift the cab at some point but haven't gotten to it yet
The Sundae Drive That sounds like a lot of work as opposed to just lifting bed. Hoping I can achieve decent coverage without separating cab/frame. Good luck on yours
Thanks! Hoping so