This happened to me recently twice and both times it was long, over 9 hours prints. around 1 mm layer shift on Y axis. Checked the printer and everything was good. I usually remotely check the prints and suspect it might be something related with remotely accessing my Raspberry Pi while printing big files. The CPU resources might get overused and the print processing just shifts. Initially I suspected overheating stepper motor, but it was lukewarm to the touch.
I think It's combination of added weight attached to the bed and running higher accelerations with klipper that overcomes the strength of the motor. For confirmation you could tape ~400g something to the bed and do a test print with sharp direction changes to challenge the Y motor. Possible solutions: - get a bigger motor - increase amount of current going to the motor for more torque - or just slow down 😉
You are on to something. Since I installed a new board (the skr mine E3 v3)I have lowered the current to the steppers a little bit, following a recommendation online, because the stepper could potentially get too hot. My original board let out smoke, that is why I switch to a aftermarket one. The big piece I was printing definitely is a heavy item. The accelerations and speeds I am using are rather low compared to other Klipper Users, I like nice quality, not so worried about speed. But overall I think you hit nail on the head. I might just increase the current of the y stepper and give it another try. Thanks
I have 2 SV06s and have this same issue on 1 of my SV06s. I also increased the current on the y stepper but not sure if that has any effect yet (have not printed anything on it in a few days). I did the silicon mod on both several months ago but the only thing I can think of is that is has something to do with weight of the silicon pieces. Maybe a little heavy??? I'll have to keep on checking my machine
are you talking about the silicone for the bed mounting? Silicon tube instead the aluminum spacers? I did the silicone tube mod for the bed but that doesn't increase the weight.
@@Heiko-Prints correct on both. But what I'm saying is I don't know if the weight of the print is causing the issue on the silicone tubes. I'm not running kipper on mine
You probably had corrupt gcode since the same file failed at the same location on the second time you printed the same file. I recommend you open the gcode file in multiple different slicers to see if the file looks different at that location just in case one of them is not showing an issue in that area. Also, do the speed layer view to see if the speeds increased in that spot or layer height changed or some other weird issue. One last thing; what gcode flavor are you using in PrusaSlicer?
@@Heiko-Prints Did you create a custom printer profile for your machine, or did the slicer have a preconfigured profile that you selected? Also, have you looked at the bad gcode in text format to compare the good layers to the bad ones? gcode can get corrupt during save or export, but it can also happen if your gcode flavor is not compatible with your printer... I dont use CURA anymore, nor do I own a Sovol printer, but I did a test with the latest cura by adding a printer profile for the SV06, and the default gcode flavor in CURA for your machine says Marlin. You might want to ask sovol which gcode flavor to use for each slicer, just incase they require a different flavor per slicer. It could be as simple as a command in the gcode lines are not supported on your machine from PrusaSlicer and OrcaSlicer, but I really dont know or have a way to test/confirm this.
it decouples the vertical up and down movement of the z axis (the movement that is wanted) from any wobble that might exist in the lead screw (all the unwanted movements). It is a very cheap upgrade. the OLDHAMs I used only require a little printer spacer to get fitted.
It is the Y axis motor. The drive shaft of the y axis motor does not have flat side, so the set screw slips when it is pushed to hard. Either it cannot handle the acceleration, or the part got heavy. The motor is too small also. 3 options: 1. If you have an older printer lying around, swap the motor for a larger one, 2. Buy a larger motor, 3. Use a grinder to make a flat side on the drive shaft of the motor. The other motors are not under as much stress, so they don't cause x and z shift.
This looks like what happened to mine, where my motor got waaaaaay too hot, losing steps getting shifts all over the Y axis. Check the motor vref if not too low or too high. Check temps during same failed print just in case. In my example, my motors literally burn my fingers :(
@@auroraRealms Not quite, because I was running 40mms with 500mms accel... Slower than this I have to sell my printer xDDD The case was really over voltage configured to my steppers, after I fix the vref, I get 100mms 5k accel now without ANY burn on my finger skin. vrefs are very important to keep under control, otherwise it will happen what you said indeed. BTW, ender 3 s1 cannot have a larger motor for Y because of the way the motor is mounted, if the motor is taller than currently is, I have no clearance to the bed to pass through it :( -- at least without major changes cannot be easily changed.
@@AyrtonRicardo The motor I put on my Sovol SV06 is 40mm tall (before drive shaft and bearing collar) nema 17. Works like a charm. Also, right after I bought the printer I noticed the motors where running a too hot. So I turned down the currrent until the motors where running warm but not burn your fingers hot. I print 80mm/s petg and pla, 50mm/s tpu. 500mm/s accel, 170mm/s travel. Not barn burning, but safe, good quality and resonably fast. I change temperature in 5c increments to adjust over/under extrusion.
This happened to me recently twice and both times it was long, over 9 hours prints. around 1 mm layer shift on Y axis. Checked the printer and everything was good. I usually remotely check the prints and suspect it might be something related with remotely accessing my Raspberry Pi while printing big files. The CPU resources might get overused and the print processing just shifts.
Initially I suspected overheating stepper motor, but it was lukewarm to the touch.
I think It's combination of added weight attached to the bed and running higher accelerations with klipper that overcomes the strength of the motor.
For confirmation you could tape ~400g something to the bed and do a test print with sharp direction changes to challenge the Y motor.
Possible solutions:
- get a bigger motor
- increase amount of current going to the motor for more torque
- or just slow down 😉
You are on to something. Since I installed a new board (the skr mine E3 v3)I have lowered the current to the steppers a little bit, following a recommendation online, because the stepper could potentially get too hot. My original board let out smoke, that is why I switch to a aftermarket one.
The big piece I was printing definitely is a heavy item. The accelerations and speeds I am using are rather low compared to other Klipper Users, I like nice quality, not so worried about speed.
But overall I think you hit nail on the head. I might just increase the current of the y stepper and give it another try.
Thanks
Is your bed smooth when you push it? On mine it had catches when you pushed it slowly and sovol sent me new rails
it was a little sticky after the first failed print. I ended up lubricating it. But it failed again. I might switch to nylon bearings.
@@Heiko-Prints either get new rods from sovol, or switch to IGUS drylin bearings. Or both
I have 2 SV06s and have this same issue on 1 of my SV06s. I also increased the current on the y stepper but not sure if that has any effect yet (have not printed anything on it in a few days). I did the silicon mod on both several months ago but the only thing I can think of is that is has something to do with weight of the silicon pieces. Maybe a little heavy??? I'll have to keep on checking my machine
are you talking about the silicone for the bed mounting? Silicon tube instead the aluminum spacers? I did the silicone tube mod for the bed but that doesn't increase the weight.
@@Heiko-Prints correct on both. But what I'm saying is I don't know if the weight of the print is causing the issue on the silicone tubes. I'm not running kipper on mine
You probably had corrupt gcode since the same file failed at the same location on the second time you printed the same file.
I recommend you open the gcode file in multiple different slicers to see if the file looks different at that location just in case one of them is not showing an issue in that area. Also, do the speed layer view to see if the speeds increased in that spot or layer height changed or some other weird issue. One last thing; what gcode flavor are you using in PrusaSlicer?
that is a good idea. I use orca and prusa slicer interchangablily. I should have thought of that.
Flavor is Klipper.
@@Heiko-Prints Did you create a custom printer profile for your machine, or did the slicer have a preconfigured profile that you selected? Also, have you looked at the bad gcode in text format to compare the good layers to the bad ones?
gcode can get corrupt during save or export, but it can also happen if your gcode flavor is not compatible with your printer... I dont use CURA anymore, nor do I own a Sovol printer, but I did a test with the latest cura by adding a printer profile for the SV06, and the default gcode flavor in CURA for your machine says Marlin.
You might want to ask sovol which gcode flavor to use for each slicer, just incase they require a different flavor per slicer. It could be as simple as a command in the gcode lines are not supported on your machine from PrusaSlicer and OrcaSlicer, but I really dont know or have a way to test/confirm this.
Can you explain what the Oldham mounts on your lead screws are for?
it decouples the vertical up and down movement of the z axis (the movement that is wanted) from any wobble that might exist in the lead screw (all the unwanted movements). It is a very cheap upgrade. the OLDHAMs I used only require a little printer spacer to get fitted.
@@Heiko-Printsso you just installed them on top of the existing gantry hardware?
It is the Y axis motor. The drive shaft of the y axis motor does not have flat side, so the set screw slips when it is pushed to hard. Either it cannot handle the acceleration, or the part got heavy. The motor is too small also. 3 options: 1. If you have an older printer lying around, swap the motor for a larger one, 2. Buy a larger motor, 3. Use a grinder to make a flat side on the drive shaft of the motor.
The other motors are not under as much stress, so they don't cause x and z shift.
Thanks, that is all good information.
This looks like what happened to mine, where my motor got waaaaaay too hot, losing steps getting shifts all over the Y axis. Check the motor vref if not too low or too high. Check temps during same failed print just in case. In my example, my motors literally burn my fingers :(
In that case, either slow down, or replace the y axis motor with a larger one. The added power will burn up the motor.
Thanks, I will do that.
@@auroraRealms Not quite, because I was running 40mms with 500mms accel... Slower than this I have to sell my printer xDDD
The case was really over voltage configured to my steppers, after I fix the vref, I get 100mms 5k accel now without ANY burn on my finger skin. vrefs are very important to keep under control, otherwise it will happen what you said indeed.
BTW, ender 3 s1 cannot have a larger motor for Y because of the way the motor is mounted, if the motor is taller than currently is, I have no clearance to the bed to pass through it :( -- at least without major changes cannot be easily changed.
@@AyrtonRicardo The motor I put on my Sovol SV06 is 40mm tall (before drive shaft and bearing collar) nema 17. Works like a charm. Also, right after I bought the printer I noticed the motors where running a too hot. So I turned down the currrent until the motors where running warm but not burn your fingers hot.
I print 80mm/s petg and pla, 50mm/s tpu. 500mm/s accel, 170mm/s travel. Not barn burning, but safe, good quality and resonably fast. I change temperature in 5c increments to adjust over/under extrusion.
@@auroraRealms80mm/s is basically stock speeds though. You should be well into the 100s with klipper and an after market cooling fan.