Don't pull in so your knee deep in water in the cab. Go in as least as possible dont submerge the exhaust, wheel blocks, leave in 1st gear with engine off or park if auto tranny. USE E- BRAKE, IF you can turn the wheel so if you do roll you will hit the dock or nearest obstruction. An ya never dropped a boat in the water thank me later.😂😅
No mention of holding the brakes? Even with 2WD, every vehicle has 4 wheel braking. How many boat ramp disasters could be prevented by just holding the brakes until help arrives?
That's absolutely true but that's aborting the launch and crossing your fingers that someone will help you. It also means keeping your brakes engaged the entire time. I'm simply explaining why and how trucks get submerged at boat ramps and how to help avoid it when launching and retrieving your boat.
@@LazyLocations I don't care how big a vehicle you have. If those back tires meet up with slimy moss, then you had better have 4 wheel drive. When I was 16 in the early eighties , I tried to launch a very light vee bottom Texas Lonestar aluminum boat with a three speed on the column 1963 Ford f150. Those back tires hit slimy moss and I almost burned up a clutch getting to dry ramp.
@@LazyLocationsI wonder if there’s just a tow truck driver at the corner of a dock every summer and licking their lips waiting for someone to submerge? 🤣
Good tips here. I also use a chock block with a rope on it that gets looped over my mirror when retrieving. When I'm in the truck and just moving up the ramp I reach out grab the rope and pull the block in.
Always chock your front wheel. It will save your truck. Have a string attached so when you drive up you just pull them. And never back in past the water line. Check ramp for algae. Some people bring a broom to scrub it.
I bring a 4x4 piece of wood (chock) and put it on the ramp at the lowest point I'm willing to reach with the reach tires, when the tires reach it they can't go any further and they can't slide.plus I dont let the tires go in the water (it's also bad because in salt water it rusts the hell out of the bottom of the truck if you don't rinse it with fresh water later on). Also I'm mindful of the inclination of the ramp, algae or seaweed (I sweep it away) and the water level due to the tide. Been boating for 30 years, no problems.
I only use 4WDlso. I also put my studded wading boots on so I can keep on my feet in the algae when I go to unwinch and push my boat off the trailer. Sometimes in later summer I'll also bring a stiff bristle broom to clean off the algae from the ramp before I back in.
I put a stiff nylon brush in the bed and a chock.. if the ramp is slimy I brush it down first.. takes a minute. Tie the chock to the truck so it drags out when you pull out.
Like the guys we see every year who try to look cool pulling their 5,000ft ocean liner with a 4cyl Ranger and just can't believe their stupidity beat them in the end 😂
@edwardgrobe2848 I launch a pontoon and fishing boat with an ATV. It's a dead end road about 2 blocks to the ramp. I'm probably at that 5 to 1 weight ratio.
I usually kick it in 4H, but I put it in first gear. I don't like to use 4L unless I'm in a definite low traction situation, and the wheels are at no risk of getting good pavement traction. I use 4L in mud and sand, but never on pavement. Probably not really a big deal on a boat ramp where you're basically going straight in and out, but if I have to make a turn coming out I'm not risking breaking things in the truck. Its a lot of gear, it can put a whole lot of force on driveline parts when you have good traction.
@@notsure7874all boat ramps are slippery and you’re better off in low. Sure you might get lucky and find a dry textured one. But it’s like how guns are always loaded. The ramp is ALWAYS slippery. It only takes once for you to be just like these guys. They learned the hard way. Don’t be that guy
@@slpguy6026 Oh no doubt, you have a point. Guns are always loaded, and boat ramps are always slicker than owl shit. One time is one time too many. I just figure on some of them if it starts to slip I can brake and kick it into low, but it's probably better to just start there.
I used to launch my 14' Princecraft with a dinky little Mazda Protegé, which was FWD so I could back up to my heart's content without worrying about slipping & sliding.
@@Zork150i have a 16 ft with an 85 hp main and 9 hp kicker. For 2 years I towed it with a Kia Sorento. Never had an issue, that FWD was golden. Always yanked it right out even with the back wheels in the water. That V6 is rated at 260 hp though. The biggest issue was you couldn't see over the boat, so backing up was side mirrors only which can be dicey in the dark.
@@jongrose5870 That's an aluminum fishing boat, which weighs nothing. My Princecraft was a fiberglass runabout with all seating, interior trim, accessories etc... and my car was much smaller. You're good to go.
About 9 years ago, I had an F350 that started to slowly roll backwards at a boat ramp. It was very slow but still freaky AF! I managed to stop it, and actually still launched the boat after I resoved it. BUT, the truck went to service within a couple days and it had some parking brake issues to fix. I had no idea it was having issues. Since then, I ALWAYS use a chock block no matter what. Cheap insurance.
We had two incidents at a boat launch in one day. One guy was in our fishing group with a 2wd pickup. He got in the algae but held his brakes down the second he realized he couldn't go forward. Had another guy strap to him and pull him out to regain traction. Holding the front brakes saved him along with someone to pull him out. Another guy at the same launch later that day went under water with a 2wd ranger. He barely got out before the cab pressurized. I can say don't put it in park!!! hold your brakes until someone can get to you.
A big issue people forget is the handbrake/e-brake is usually on the rear wheels, which are often drum brakes, and they just don't work when wet. For grip I'm seriously thinking of getting a bucket of sand for the algae around here
Many years ago, I was at a harbour and went to the boat ramp as you do, to see if anyone had fish to show for their trip offshore. Once I got to the boat ramp, I noticed a boat was floating at the ramp, with the trailer FULLY submerged underneath it. Not only was the trailer fully submerged, but so was the car ! A V8 with a slippery boat ramp and a driver who forgot that when you lose traction on a boat ramp with a heavy boat you're in trouble. A very expensive car completely submerged!
I would agree with the 4x4 engaged, but with caveat “only when needed”. 4 wheel drive functions effectively because there is a very slight difference in ratio between the front and rear wheels. This is great offroad, or in snowy slippery conditions. On a hard and dry concrete or paved surface it puts an extreme amount of stress on the transfer case. This will cause damage and slop over time, and eventually complete failure of the system. Case in point, my father in law fished avidly, we’re talking 2-3 times a week. He always kept it 4x4 engaged on the ramp. With 38,000 miles on his truck the transfer case was completely shot. “As and When Needed” is the key concept here. That and the use of blocks (as suggested) will get you safely out of the water. Never be afraid to ask for help (tow from a fellow boater, or even call a tow truck) if needed. A whole lot cheaper than an expensive repair. Just my thoughts-
Yeah I think one problem people have is backing up too much! I get it if its low tie but really whats that extra few minutes of just using the wrench to pull the boat to fit the trailer vs losing your vehicle!
Just do something that helps everyone out. Get a large shop broom and go down to the water and start scrubbing the concrete a few feet down into the water. Maybe not do it when things are REALLY BUSY at the ramp, but if you're there and the traffic is low take a couple mins to brush/scrub the ramp area starting where it begins to get slick and continue a few feet down into the water. If you're really concerned about it, inspect the ramp before backing down to see if it will be a problem. Especially if you only have 2WD.
I own a little 2wd Colorado I’m mostly on a farm and I use the (farm setup on my Colorado all seasons on the front and mudgrips in the rear and even on the worst ramps no weight in the back never had a problem however I don’t overload my truck my Crosby sea sled is like 1300lbs with trailer
I saw a guy put a 2x4 between the brake pedal and steering wheel while in park to apply braking to the front wheels. The parking brake won't help if the back tires are sliding.
Haha I used to do something similar with my old 5 sp s10.. no parking brake and tranny wouldn't hold it so I used a prybar on the pedal and a wheel chock...it was janky but hey
When I was younger I always took a 3 feet =1metre extension tube, to save car getting too close to the water. It was like a telescope, one piece fitting into the other. The extension fitted to the trailer, with a bolt or pin. The other fitted to the car tow hitch, i leave the design to you as some trailers are different than others. You can drill a few extra holes in the tube to suit the length you require. When you cut the tube to length , it can be cut even longer. Hope this helps.
For a video with this title you really should have addressed the common issues of: Not ensuring vehicle is in park Not engaging parking break Not having manual transmissions in gear or relying only on parking brake while in N Falling out of truck while looking back through open door These are far more common than a loss of traction due to wheel spin
I almost lost my truck the other day. Dead low tide ramp was pretty steep. Decent size boat for the truck size. The loose stones on the ramp caused all tires to start skidding. Only thing i could do is bang it in drive and get on the gas. Luckily saved my truck and boat. I tried turning left tuning right no way that worked. I had to bang it into gear. I have backed in many of ramps and many of boats! It can happen to anyone. Be careful everyone.
Has anybody developed a device to extend the tongue of the boat trailer? Just short of the ramp, before launching the boat, disconnect the standard trailer from the truck's hitch. Place a six or eight foot bar between the truck hitch and the trailer hitch. The bar would have corresponding male and female hitch devices on either end. The added length might be enough to keep the truck's rear wheels clear of the slimy part of the boat ramp.
Not that I know of. A simple wheel chock might work too. I feel like every ramp should have some kind of preventive device installed or available. Just not sure what that is.
Grew up near boat ramps in Indiana on lake Michigan. We would sit and watch the happenings that went on there from our canoe or the docks. Often the boaters would ask us for help, or get bent at us from laughing at them. Sometimes in their frustration they'd challenge us to back down to the ramp in their vehicle with trailer and get the boat off or on. So we did it with ease mostly. We kids had a sense of how those boaters would act. Usually the more expensive the boat, the less control they had over launching it or retrieving their stuff. They never thought to practice trailering in a parking lot, but they sure did have some nice big boats. Sometimes we'd go on a cooler raid.....but that's another story.
probably a dumb question, but all I want in life is a little jon boat to take me out on the restricted lakes near me. with 2wd i feel like it doesn't matter what your pulling, it's the ramp surface that will get you in the jam. will adding weight just in case in the bed eliminate this? kind of like winter driving? or is it a roll of the dice? also, maybe should I consider a trailer with an extended tongue? or just cough up the money for that good 4x4 action? thanks
The best thing you could do is carry a wheel chock and use that when you're out of the truck loading and unloading. You could also carry a bag of sand in the bed to throw on the ramp just in case.
Good points. But when I launch my boat I’m paranoid that in the “heat of battle” I’ll just get out to attend to the boat and forget to drop the vehicle into park. I’ve seen it happen!
I think most people put their parking brake on and forget to put it in park. Many times the parking brake does not work well. At the same time, only the back wheels are locked. that is what you should use 4wd if you have it.
Also check your 4x4 function they are not all equal, I discovered too late that 2015 RAM 4x4 only locks transfer case when you rev it, even in "4x4 low" and "4x4 lock" at idle the front wheels are free.
How about just not getting the truck tires in the water at all? Too many people back too far. The boat trailer tires don’t need to be submerged. Then just put on the trucks emergency brake.
We had a tricky launch area into lake with slight incline for 50M into shallow water. Rope was tied to trailer at one end, other end to vehicle which is parked on the dry. Remove trailer from hitch and let go until boat floats off. Retrive trailer by driving forward. Easy peasy. Dry truck.
Different tires act differently on wet surfaces as well. Another tip is to use neutral instead of reverse, once the trailer is on the ramp. The weight of the vessel will help you backup.
What if your car is front wheel drive? I'm looking into getting my first boat and it will be kept on a trailer, just looking for tips. It won't be too heavy, just an older 17 montauk
You aren't kidding about the slipperiness of algae. A couple years ago, I was riding a bicycle trail that had received rain the previous night. One of the wooden bridges was in the shade and had algae growing on it. As soon as I hit that bridge, my tires went out from under me and I landed hard on my hip. Oil on ice is a good description. That was the most slippery surface I've ever encountered.
Because there's more effort required by the vehicle to create momentum. That is likely to cause the rear tires to spin if not in 4wd. Also, there's more weight trying to pull the boat up the ramp vs. backing down the ramp. All that being said, many vehicles still get submerged during launching due to parking brake/transmission issues.
The only reason I even have 4x4 on my truck is for launching and retrieving my boats. I even put it in 4 wheel drive when I'm launching my 500 pound Whaler. I sure put it in 4 wheel drive when I'm launching my 5000 pound Mako CC. It's too late when you're sliding down the ramp.
Another tip is don't have your vehicle in reverse but instead have it in neutral when going down the ramp. also do a brake test in reverse before going near the ramp.also, you should never exceed the maximum SAFE towing weight of the vehicle. When you add angles like a boat ramp, the pull on your vehicle increases keep in mind.
Very informative. My car has a front wheel drive and I guess if I try to go very slow the front wheels have the best traction. And can manage to drive it out.😎
I have seen a coupla front drive cars lose traction becaue the trailer weighs them down in back, lessening the traction in front. The guy was asking for volunteers to sit on the hood. Fact is, people are just unprepared for boat ramps, and that explains the insanity that goes on there.
I've been using two different all wheel drive vehicles over the last 6 years and have no problems pulling out my 15 and a half foot bass cat from the reservoirs here in Georgia.
Here's a reason you didn't mention. The tranmission parking brake uses the driveline to lock the wheels. So when it is is 4wd it locks all 4 wheels instead of just the rear. For instance the vehicle might stay there when you get out of the vehicle on the ramp in 2wd but when loading the boat the weight of the boat breaks the rear wheels traction then it slides back in the water. If you're in 4wd the front tires are locked so that wouldn't happen. I would say most vehicles in the water happens when no one is in the vehicle to hit the brakes when it slides if not in 4wd.
Great video, did wonder how they ended up in water. I bought a RWD car thinking it was better for towing boat than FWD, which is case on gravel roads. Discovered at local boat ramp rear wheels were in loose while front non drive wheels were on hard. Eventual bought AWD and never looked back. Used ramp with that slime, l hold onto car, trailer or boat as its like walking on ice.
Just another reason I’ve always owned 4x4 trucks. Because you’ve always got front driving wheels on the dry part of the launch ramp. Especially helpful when lots of 2 stroke PWC or boats are present on a lake. Those ramps are very slippery!
Vehicles become attached to their owners and may get highly jealous of their boat siblings. Vehicles have been known to join their owner and boat for a swim, deep seeded separation issues.
@@reel5717 seated indeed, you are correct my friend. The way people speak slang today, I'm surprised I am able to put half a sentence together at all 😅
@@NoNopeAndNo 😂 believe me I know there are so many common phrases and things we just say wrong from just learning it and always hearing it wrong you know God speed bro✌️
Make sure there’s no heavy slime at the waterline or try to keep the rear tires out of it. You’ll definitely want to use 2nd gear or Low for more torque at slower speed so you don’t have to give it a lot of power. When I used it on my old 4Runner 2nd gear did the trick and it felt like a strong crawl. Finally, I would buy a wheel chock and place it behind your front driver side tire after you back the trailer in the water. Especially, on the retrieve. Tie it to your side view mirror so it drags with you when you drive up the ramp. That’s the final fail-safe. It should keep your car dry if you can’t get traction but someone will probably still have to tow/assist you. But at least the car is dry.
If you have help, have your helper stand next to driver door with a rubber wheel chock, if vehicle begins to slide backwards immediately drop the wheel chock behind front tire. Put vehicle in park, emergency brake on, then take the boat off the trailer. Try to pull empty trailer out of the water while helper removes wheel chock and replaced it if unable to pull trailer all the way out. Once trailer is out of the water begin begging others there with 4x4 to retrieve your boat, maybe even for a small fee
Also, a boat does not have to 'float off the trailer' if it means backing onto a slippery area. Back down only as far as safe, the push boat into water. And when reloading, use the winch. If you still can't get close enough, buy and new trailer or tongue extension. Cheaper than replacing the vehicle after submersion! :)
Once a two-wheel drive truck gets Wheels on the slime they can't move forward.... And every time they try they go backwards a little bit until bloop bloop bloop bloop........ And of course some people simply don't use the parking brake.... Or wheel chocks. I've never seen anybody actually use wheel chocks but me....but I chock the front wheel every time... They're only like 8 bucks at harbor freight
I used to pull my i/o 18 ft with a plymouth caravan. Short highway hauls were fine .. the boat ramp could be entertaining though for those watching . People likely thought i was a newby.. am not ..just dont have the coin for a 4x4 truck.. Any way it way usually not a problem getting the boat out depending on the ramp i was st.. every so often i got a slippery or wet ramp or too much sand building up on the trailer wheels. Ever seen a plymouth caravan smoking the front tires.. i could get it looking like a guy with a mustang doing burnouts in the parking lot. High fives all around from the on lookers after getting the boat out and leaving 10 ft of rubber on the ramp. Good times.
@jeffsim8664 I only have a couple blocks to the ramp on a dead end road. I use an ATV to launch a pontoon and 17' fishing boat. I sure get some looks but it works really good
Low gear is the quickest way to break the tires loose. On a muddy day at the MX track we always pull the holeshot in 2nd. Also loading the boat at first will take tongue weight off the vehicle's rear end or possibly even lift it . Not good on rear wheel drive. Be safe!
It’s ideal to have someone that knows what’s going on in the boat, with it running, to help push the truck in if it goes bad. Don’t always have that person, so check the ramp first, only go back as far as absolutely necessary, let the boat(gravity and/or bouyancy) do the work. I hade a friend that lost his 11 year old daughter in a situation like this, just awful.
😁👍🏻 Or people putting the trailer wheels off the ramp slabs at low tide, which can change. I launched in twenty years. When you do it all the time it looks easy to others, but you gotta know what you’re doing. Thanks for the reminder.
"If you can, try and keep the rear wheels out of the slime/algae". I have the entire video on my course so I started talking about something else that I couldn't edit cleanly so that's why I cut it off so abruptly. Sorry about that.
@@LazyLocations thank you so much for getting back so quick! I thought, or was imaging something along lines of, "bring a push broom for these types of situations, along with a wire brush or some sort" 😂 silly me. But nonetheless, thank you for getting back this quick! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
@@charlievelez3510 That could work too! I've also seen people use a wheel chock under the front driver side wheel to keep from rolling back. Attached by a rope looped around the sideview mirror and it'll drag with the truck when exiting the ramp. Genius!
i have a paddle boat and i use the boat launch for it, not backing my trailer in but its a convienient place to put my 5x8 boat. that slimey launch is no joke ive slipped there so many times getting the boat in the water.
I wonder how many of these "accidents" are actually tenatives to defraud the inssurance companies by making them pay for a truck the owner can no longer pay for or just wants to get rid of without paying for it.
I've never owned a 4x4 and always drove small to mid sized trucks. Never had a problem at the boat ramp. Trick my Dad taught me was let a little air out the back tires like you're at the trail head going off-roading. Next is to wedge a pipe onto the brake pedal inbetween the seat bottom. And obviously do your best to keep rear wheels outta the waterline! My truck has never slid back down a boat ramp and I've never lost traction. Boat is a 19' Bow rider Sea Nymph with 115hp.
That's a good question. I would think an easy $500+. Also depends on size of trailer and boat and how messed up they are. Many times divers have to be used too.
There are ramps at places like Fayette County Lake where moss grows on the ramps at the water line. Trucks pet their back tires in that moss and slide back.
Thats what I was going to say and never see covered with boaters. Especially with PUs that tare light in the back etc. Not everyone can afford a 4wd. Also there is some traction things you can put down on the road like for ice that would also work if that happens
Number 1 reason: idiots. I never had a problem. Sure I made minor mistakes, but never forgot a drain plug, never forgot my safety chains, had 4wd but never needed it. Got to have a routine and stick with it, and if something does go wrong, don’t panic, keep a cool head, and things will work out.
I think it’s ok because so many trucks do it and I never hear about consequential problems. Look it up online to see if you can find specific info about it. What I found was conflicting. Also, it might be best to ask your car mechanic.
@@LazyLocations Ok thanks, I won’t attempt it for now. Trying to tow a 2005 Centurion Avalanche with a weight of 3,200 lbs and trailer weight of about 1,000 lbs with a 2021 4Runner only 4 miles away. Will do some more research, thank for the video I’ll put I in 4L when launching and retrieving. Will probably tow it in 4th gear max
They back up too far and drive the trailer tires off the edge of the pavement. The trailer drops off the ramp end point and is stuck until it is lifted out. I have seen it 100 times.
It seems to me that boat docks should have mandatory concrete pylons (or something) that you can connect a tow hitch to as a safeguard. Therefore if you do begin to slip or get pulled, you will only go so far. That's pretty cheap insurance. Other possible ideas are encouraged.
Almost seems like having a more beefy front wheel on the trailer that can be raised or lowered wouldn't be a horrible idea. have a winch on either the truck or the trailer, conect the 2 with the winch, unhitch and gently roll the trailer back while the truck has nice traction on dry land. would need to be something tougher than the normal jocky wheel thats on most small trailers to aid with moveing the trailer by hand.
Wait i’m confused…so i’m a moron who backs up too far and when i try to move forward my rear tires slip and spin so instead of putting on the brakes which would lock the front tires as well and calling for help i just floor it and let the rear tires spin as i slide into the water?? Sounds like some people should not be behind a wheel. I have always said no man should own a 2wd truck as well…. 🙄 if your algae comment is correct and you have a 2wd truck that goes too far and the rear tires are in the water and spinning the only thing you could do is press the brake pedal (not the emergency brake) locking all four tires and call for help. That’s your only shot.
That slime is a killer. I can't tell you how many times I've slipped. Even when it looks clear, it is not! Be careful. I always, always, always use 4 x 4.
The front brakes are no good unless your foot is on the foot pedal. If the back tires are spinning and your foot off of the brick you're going in. Is cut a tubafourtwo fit the brake paddle to the stirring wheel when not in the truck. Most people are spinning the backtires and going backwards. It's called panic.
If you're having problems getting the boat up the ramp and you're not alone, have someone put the boat in forward and apply the throttle, it will help remove the weight from the trailer and boat and actually push the truck a bit. Shut off the outboard before your prop leaves the water.
You should also use your parking/emergency brake so all of that weight isn’t sitting on your parking gear. Being in “L” or gear #1 doesn’t change anything. It just means it will bounce off the rev limiter instead of shift when you keep spinning(you shouldn’t be staying on the gas while spinning on a boat ramp though lol)
I’m not sure I understand your comment. You definitely must have the e brake on when stopped on the ramp. You also have to be on the gas if the wheels are spinning. Please clarify.
@@LazyLocations The only thing that would happen if you put the gear selector on “L” is you would stay in gear 1. Meaning if you were spinning with your foot on the gas like a dumbass, all that would happen is you would bang off the rev limiter instead of shifting. You aren’t getting any better traction, or any benefit…other than limiting yourself to 1st gear.
Shifting means nothing. When you’re caught in the algae it doesn’t matter if you’re in 2wd low/2 or auto. If you’re spinning in low then you’re definitely spinning in the higher gears. Also, you specifically mentioned you should use the pkg brake (which is obvious). My point is once you’re off the brake and trying to accelerate up the ramp the pkg brake is no longer a factor. If and when the spinning starts you’ll keep spinning as you slowly roll into the water. Bottom line, use 4WD if you have it.
@@LazyLocations Right I agree shifting means nothing. Hence I dispute your recommendation of being in “L” on the column AKA 1st gear. Obviously the parking break shouldn’t used when moving. Although it’s good to “relax” the load on the parking break by inching forward a little before releasing. Parking break engaged before you shift into park so it takes the load, reducing wear on your parking gear. Won’t ever have that SLAM when putting the column back in drive on the ramp. Another factor is the kind of tires you’re running. Soft compound all terrains are going to resist slippage a lot more than conventional highway tread with harder compound(both of course aired properly).
Proper way to set parking brake: -With foot on the brake apply the parking brake. -Shift to neutral. -Release foot brake. -Allow parking brake to absorb load. -Shift to Park. When ready to go: -Foot on brake. -Shift to forward gear. -Release parking brake. This will prevent parking pawl damage inside the transmission. The park pawl is designed to hold the vehicle steady on a flat or moderate grade, it is not designed to hold a heavy boat and trailer on a steep ramp.
I've always had 4wd tow vehicles but I've only used it twice in close to fifty years of boating/towing. The number one reason is driver error/poor judgement.
I’m 2wd so I put a wheel chalk under my front driver tire with a rope attached, then as I pull out I pull the wheel chalk up through my window
That’s the smartest way to go!
4 Wheel drive, Wheel chocks & weight in the bed. If you have no weight borrow some coolers & fill with water, Pick up's need weight on the rear tires.
Same
same method I do.
Don't pull in so your knee deep in water in the cab. Go in as least as possible dont submerge the exhaust, wheel blocks, leave in 1st gear with engine off or park if auto tranny. USE E- BRAKE, IF you can turn the wheel so if you do roll you will hit the dock or nearest obstruction. An ya never dropped a boat in the water thank me later.😂😅
No mention of holding the brakes? Even with 2WD, every vehicle has 4 wheel braking. How many boat ramp disasters could be prevented by just holding the brakes until help arrives?
That's absolutely true but that's aborting the launch and crossing your fingers that someone will help you. It also means keeping your brakes engaged the entire time. I'm simply explaining why and how trucks get submerged at boat ramps and how to help avoid it when launching and retrieving your boat.
If you get all four wheels n the slime, gravity will pull you down the incline regardless of hitting the brakes, just like ice.
@@LazyLocations I don't care how big a vehicle you have. If those back tires meet up with slimy moss, then you had better have 4 wheel drive. When I was 16 in the early eighties , I tried to launch a very light vee bottom Texas Lonestar aluminum boat with a three speed on the column 1963 Ford f150. Those back tires hit slimy moss and I almost burned up a clutch getting to dry ramp.
@@christophermichaels If you have to get all 4 wheels wet to launch or retrieve your boat, you're doing it wrong.
@@LazyLocationsI wonder if there’s just a tow truck driver at the corner of a dock every summer and licking their lips waiting for someone to submerge? 🤣
Good tips here. I also use a chock block with a rope on it that gets looped over my mirror when retrieving. When I'm in the truck and just moving up the ramp I reach out grab the rope and pull the block in.
Great idea! That's actually the best way to do it. Thanks!
Always chock your front wheel. It will save your truck. Have a string attached so when you drive up you just pull them. And never back in past the water line. Check ramp for algae. Some people bring a broom to scrub it.
Good point
Better advice in 1 sentence then this whole video
I was thinking thinking I’d bring a broom but sucks most people are lazy
Good tips
I bring a 4x4 piece of wood (chock) and put it on the ramp at the lowest point I'm willing to reach with the reach tires, when the tires reach it they can't go any further and they can't slide.plus I dont let the tires go in the water (it's also bad because in salt water it rusts the hell out of the bottom of the truck if you don't rinse it with fresh water later on). Also I'm mindful of the inclination of the ramp, algae or seaweed (I sweep it away) and the water level due to the tide. Been boating for 30 years, no problems.
I only use 4WDlso. I also put my studded wading boots on so I can keep on my feet in the algae when I go to unwinch and push my boat off the trailer. Sometimes in later summer I'll also bring a stiff bristle broom to clean off the algae from the ramp before I back in.
I put a stiff nylon brush in the bed and a chock.. if the ramp is slimy I brush it down first.. takes a minute.
Tie the chock to the truck so it drags out when you pull out.
#1. People whose boats weigh five times more than their towing vehicle.
Definitely
Like the guys we see every year who try to look cool pulling their 5,000ft ocean liner with a 4cyl Ranger and just can't believe their stupidity beat them in the end 😂
@@Drmcclungthen you have people like me driving a 2008 F350 DUALLY towing a Twin Troller to the local river boat ramp 😂😂.
@@Drmcclung I-KNOW-THAT-TRUCK IM-NO-STRANGER ..
@edwardgrobe2848 I launch a pontoon and fishing boat with an ATV. It's a dead end road about 2 blocks to the ramp. I'm probably at that 5 to 1 weight ratio.
Once I get lined up straight with the ramp I always switch to 4 low going in and out. Another benefit is nothing happens fast in 4 low.
Exactly!
I usually kick it in 4H, but I put it in first gear. I don't like to use 4L unless I'm in a definite low traction situation, and the wheels are at no risk of getting good pavement traction. I use 4L in mud and sand, but never on pavement. Probably not really a big deal on a boat ramp where you're basically going straight in and out, but if I have to make a turn coming out I'm not risking breaking things in the truck. Its a lot of gear, it can put a whole lot of force on driveline parts when you have good traction.
@@notsure7874all boat ramps are slippery and you’re better off in low. Sure you might get lucky and find a dry textured one. But it’s like how guns are always loaded. The ramp is ALWAYS slippery. It only takes once for you to be just like these guys. They learned the hard way. Don’t be that guy
@@slpguy6026 Oh no doubt, you have a point. Guns are always loaded, and boat ramps are always slicker than owl shit. One time is one time too many.
I just figure on some of them if it starts to slip I can brake and kick it into low, but it's probably better to just start there.
@@notsure7874 4L in short distances with high traction at low speeds won’t bind you up, especially if you aren’t cranking on the wheel.
i have 2wd never had an issue. I just dont back into really steep inclines ramps.
I agree but you never know. I used my 2wd 4Runner for years and got out of some crazy ramps but, still, 4wd is so much more comforting.
Back in the 80s we had a 2WD full size van pulling a small boat. Luckily never had an issue. We’d sometimes spin but never got sucked in.
I used to launch my 14' Princecraft with a dinky little Mazda Protegé, which was FWD so I could back up to my heart's content without worrying about slipping & sliding.
So you believe the front wheel drive works well
For a light enough boat like a 14' Princecraft with a 70 hp 2-stroke Johnson, it never let me down once.
@@Zork150i have a 16 ft with an 85 hp main and 9 hp kicker. For 2 years I towed it with a Kia Sorento. Never had an issue, that FWD was golden. Always yanked it right out even with the back wheels in the water. That V6 is rated at 260 hp though. The biggest issue was you couldn't see over the boat, so backing up was side mirrors only which can be dicey in the dark.
That is encouraging i found a 12 foot StarCraft and have a jeep renegade that can tow 2000lbs and found this video concerned about the ramp lol
@@jongrose5870 That's an aluminum fishing boat, which weighs nothing. My Princecraft was a fiberglass runabout with all seating, interior trim, accessories etc... and my car was much smaller. You're good to go.
The low gear idea is gold. What about bringing along a stiff brush in the back of the truck and scraping off the algae before using the ramp?
About 9 years ago, I had an F350 that started to slowly roll backwards at a boat ramp. It was very slow but still freaky AF!
I managed to stop it, and actually still launched the boat after I resoved it.
BUT, the truck went to service within a couple days and it had some parking brake issues to fix. I had no idea it was having issues.
Since then, I ALWAYS use a chock block no matter what. Cheap insurance.
Great advice!
We had two incidents at a boat launch in one day. One guy was in our fishing group with a 2wd pickup. He got in the algae but held his brakes down the second he realized he couldn't go forward. Had another guy strap to him and pull him out to regain traction. Holding the front brakes saved him along with someone to pull him out. Another guy at the same launch later that day went under water with a 2wd ranger. He barely got out before the cab pressurized.
I can say don't put it in park!!! hold your brakes until someone can get to you.
You can also have a 2X2 or whatever cut to right length to wedge between seat and brake pedal if working alone.
A big issue people forget is the handbrake/e-brake is usually on the rear wheels, which are often drum brakes, and they just don't work when wet. For grip I'm seriously thinking of getting a bucket of sand for the algae around here
Many years ago, I was at a harbour and went to the boat ramp as you do, to see if anyone had fish to show for their trip offshore. Once I got to the boat ramp, I noticed a boat was floating at the ramp, with the trailer FULLY submerged underneath it. Not only was the trailer fully submerged, but so was the car ! A V8 with a slippery boat ramp and a driver who forgot that when you lose traction on a boat ramp with a heavy boat you're in trouble. A very expensive car completely submerged!
Thank you for recording and posting this valuable educational video.
I would agree with the 4x4 engaged, but with caveat “only when needed”. 4 wheel drive functions effectively because there is a very slight difference in ratio between the front and rear wheels. This is great offroad, or in snowy slippery conditions. On a hard and dry concrete or paved surface it puts an extreme amount of stress on the transfer case. This will cause damage and slop over time, and eventually complete failure of the system. Case in point, my father in law fished avidly, we’re talking 2-3 times a week. He always kept it 4x4 engaged on the ramp. With 38,000 miles on his truck the transfer case was completely shot. “As and When Needed” is the key concept here. That and the use of blocks (as suggested) will get you safely out of the water. Never be afraid to ask for help (tow from a fellow boater, or even call a tow truck) if needed. A whole lot cheaper than an expensive repair. Just my thoughts-
Yeah I think one problem people have is backing up too much! I get it if its low tie but really whats that extra few minutes of just using the wrench to pull the boat to fit the trailer vs losing your vehicle!
Just do something that helps everyone out. Get a large shop broom and go down to the water and start scrubbing the concrete a few feet down into the water. Maybe not do it when things are REALLY BUSY at the ramp, but if you're there and the traffic is low take a couple mins to brush/scrub the ramp area starting where it begins to get slick and continue a few feet down into the water. If you're really concerned about it, inspect the ramp before backing down to see if it will be a problem. Especially if you only have 2WD.
I own a little 2wd Colorado I’m mostly on a farm and I use the (farm setup on my Colorado all seasons on the front and mudgrips in the rear and even on the worst ramps no weight in the back never had a problem however I don’t overload my truck my Crosby sea sled is like 1300lbs with trailer
I saw a guy put a 2x4 between the brake pedal and steering wheel while in park to apply braking to the front wheels. The parking brake won't help if the back tires are sliding.
Great idea but you can use something much smaller and lighter but place it between seat and brake pedal after getting out.
Pedal
@bigguyinalittleboat7927 Thanks!
Haha I used to do something similar with my old 5 sp s10.. no parking brake and tranny wouldn't hold it so I used a prybar on the pedal and a wheel chock...it was janky but hey
Most people don't check the "Truck Book" at the dealership when purchasing a truck to pull a trailer. You have to match the truck with the trailer.
When I was younger I always took a 3 feet =1metre extension tube, to save car getting too close to the water. It was like a telescope, one piece fitting into the other. The extension fitted to the trailer, with a bolt or pin. The other fitted to the car tow hitch, i leave the design to you as some trailers are different than others. You can drill a few extra holes in the tube to suit the length you require. When you cut the tube to length , it can be cut even longer. Hope this helps.
Only use the extension bar when launching or pulling your boat out of the water, NOT for long distances.
For a video with this title you really should have addressed the common issues of:
Not ensuring vehicle is in park
Not engaging parking break
Not having manual transmissions in gear or relying only on parking brake while in N
Falling out of truck while looking back through open door
These are far more common than a loss of traction due to wheel spin
I almost lost my truck the other day. Dead low tide ramp was pretty steep. Decent size boat for the truck size. The loose stones on the ramp caused all tires to start skidding. Only thing i could do is bang it in drive and get on the gas. Luckily saved my truck and boat. I tried turning left tuning right no way that worked. I had to bang it into gear. I have backed in many of ramps and many of boats! It can happen to anyone. Be careful everyone.
Thanks for sharing Anthony. Glad you made it out!
Sounds dicey! Unfortunately sometimes things just happen that you can’t control. Glad you were able to save the truck!
Has anybody developed a device to extend the tongue of the boat trailer? Just short of the ramp, before launching the boat, disconnect the standard trailer from the truck's hitch. Place a six or eight foot bar between the truck hitch and the trailer hitch. The bar would have corresponding male and female hitch devices on either end. The added length might be enough to keep the truck's rear wheels clear of the slimy part of the boat ramp.
Not that I know of. A simple wheel chock might work too. I feel like every ramp should have some kind of preventive device installed or available. Just not sure what that is.
Not a problem with front wheel drive, if the boat ramp is good design .
Grew up near boat ramps in Indiana on lake Michigan. We would sit and watch the happenings that went on there from our canoe or the docks. Often the boaters would ask us for help, or get bent at us from laughing at them. Sometimes in their frustration they'd challenge us to back down to the ramp in their vehicle with trailer and get the boat off or on. So we did it with ease mostly. We kids had a sense of how those boaters would act. Usually the more expensive the boat, the less control they had over launching it or retrieving their stuff. They never thought to practice trailering in a parking lot, but they sure did have some nice big boats. Sometimes we'd go on a cooler raid.....but that's another story.
probably a dumb question, but all I want in life is a little jon boat to take me out on the restricted lakes near me. with 2wd i feel like it doesn't matter what your pulling, it's the ramp surface that will get you in the jam. will adding weight just in case in the bed eliminate this? kind of like winter driving? or is it a roll of the dice? also, maybe should I consider a trailer with an extended tongue? or just cough up the money for that good 4x4 action? thanks
The best thing you could do is carry a wheel chock and use that when you're out of the truck loading and unloading. You could also carry a bag of sand in the bed to throw on the ramp just in case.
You'd be better off with a front wheel drive car if it's a budget issue
I wear spike shoes. They're kinda like ice cleats but super aggressive. It helps me not go down. The lake is the only place I use them.
Good points. But when I launch my boat I’m paranoid that in the “heat of battle” I’ll just get out to attend to the boat and forget to drop the vehicle into park. I’ve seen it happen!
I think most people put their parking brake on and forget to put it in park. Many times the parking brake does not work well. At the same time, only the back wheels are locked. that is what you should use 4wd if you have it.
Exactly!
Do you use 4wd when your on the freeway?
Any decent boat launch should be treating for algae slime. Although I can’t speak to southern states that higher temps.
Also check your 4x4 function they are not all equal, I discovered too late that 2015 RAM 4x4 only locks transfer case when you rev it, even in "4x4 low" and "4x4 lock" at idle the front wheels are free.
Wow! Thanks for the valuable info!
How about just not getting the truck tires in the water at all? Too many people back too far. The boat trailer tires don’t need to be submerged. Then just put on the trucks emergency brake.
That kinda depends on how steep the ramp is and depth of the water
On the really slippery ramps with algae buildup, i bring a hard brisled broom and quickly brush the ramp where the rear tires will be in the water.
We had a tricky launch area into lake with slight incline for 50M into shallow water. Rope was tied to trailer at one end, other end to vehicle which is parked on the dry. Remove trailer from hitch and let go until boat floats off. Retrive trailer by driving forward. Easy peasy. Dry truck.
Do you back up in neutral and take off in 4LO? Some say backing up in neutral is the best?
No. I back up already in 4WD low.
Different tires act differently on wet surfaces as well.
Another tip is to use neutral instead of reverse, once the trailer is on the ramp. The weight of the vessel will help you backup.
How about parking brake too. Better for transmission
Absolutely a must.
What if your car is front wheel drive? I'm looking into getting my first boat and it will be kept on a trailer, just looking for tips. It won't be too heavy, just an older 17 montauk
You aren't kidding about the slipperiness of algae. A couple years ago, I was riding a bicycle trail that had received rain the previous night. One of the wooden bridges was in the shade and had algae growing on it. As soon as I hit that bridge, my tires went out from under me and I landed hard on my hip. Oil on ice is a good description. That was the most slippery surface I've ever encountered.
Why is it more likely to happen retrieving the boat?
Because there's more effort required by the vehicle to create momentum. That is likely to cause the rear tires to spin if not in 4wd. Also, there's more weight trying to pull the boat up the ramp vs. backing down the ramp. All that being said, many vehicles still get submerged during launching due to parking brake/transmission issues.
why don’t they put a removable steel bollard at the top for a winch or something to anchor to in a pinch?
Great idea. I agree.
The only reason I even have 4x4 on my truck is for launching and retrieving my boats. I even put it in 4 wheel drive when I'm launching my 500 pound Whaler. I sure put it in 4 wheel drive when I'm launching my 5000 pound Mako CC. It's too late when you're sliding down the ramp.
Another tip is don't have your vehicle in reverse but instead have it in neutral when going down the ramp. also do a brake test in reverse before going near the ramp.also, you should never exceed the maximum SAFE towing weight of the vehicle. When you add angles like a boat ramp, the pull on your vehicle increases keep in mind.
Very informative. My car has a front wheel drive and I guess if I try to go very slow the front wheels have the best traction. And can manage to drive it out.😎
I have seen a coupla front drive cars lose traction becaue the trailer weighs them down in back, lessening the traction in front. The guy was asking for volunteers to sit on the hood. Fact is, people are just unprepared for boat ramps, and that explains the insanity that goes on there.
@@Lollygagger-k4p oh ok. 👌
It’s a crime against nature to pull a boat with a car.
My old 2011 suzuki grand vitara had awd plus 4wd. Even with oil on ice and covered with algae it would still pull 3,300 lbs up a ramp no problem.
I've been using two different all wheel drive vehicles over the last 6 years and have no problems pulling out my 15 and a half foot bass cat from the reservoirs here in Georgia.
Here's a reason you didn't mention. The tranmission parking brake uses the driveline to lock the wheels. So when it is is 4wd it locks all 4 wheels instead of just the rear. For instance the vehicle might stay there when you get out of the vehicle on the ramp in 2wd but when loading the boat the weight of the boat breaks the rear wheels traction then it slides back in the water. If you're in 4wd the front tires are locked so that wouldn't happen. I would say most vehicles in the water happens when no one is in the vehicle to hit the brakes when it slides if not in 4wd.
Good thing I have fwd…I think that helps a lot since my two front wheels that are nowhere near the water are pulling.
Huge help for sure!
Great video, did wonder how they ended up in water.
I bought a RWD car thinking it was better for towing boat than FWD, which is case on gravel roads. Discovered at local boat ramp rear wheels were in loose while front non drive wheels were on hard. Eventual bought AWD and never looked back.
Used ramp with that slime, l hold onto car, trailer or boat as its like walking on ice.
I have a lexus lx450 with front and rear locking diff. Should I just go ahead and engage the diffs as I'm backing down ?
Just another reason I’ve always owned 4x4 trucks. Because you’ve always got front driving wheels on the dry part of the launch ramp. Especially helpful when lots of 2 stroke PWC or boats are present on a lake. Those ramps are very slippery!
Just curious, where's this boat ramp at?
Blackburn Point Boat Park Ramp in Osprey (Sarasota Area)
Vehicles become attached to their owners and may get highly jealous of their boat siblings. Vehicles have been known to join their owner and boat for a swim, deep seeded separation issues.
It's deep seated sorry don't come for me🤣✌️
@@reel5717 seated indeed, you are correct my friend. The way people speak slang today, I'm surprised I am able to put half a sentence together at all 😅
@@NoNopeAndNo 😂 believe me I know there are so many common phrases and things we just say wrong from just learning it and always hearing it wrong you know God speed bro✌️
What would I need to do to prevent the vehicle from getting into the water if my vehicle was just 2WD?
Make sure there’s no heavy slime at the waterline or try to keep the rear tires out of it. You’ll definitely want to use 2nd gear or Low for more torque at slower speed so you don’t have to give it a lot of power. When I used it on my old 4Runner 2nd gear did the trick and it felt like a strong crawl. Finally, I would buy a wheel chock and place it behind your front driver side tire after you back the trailer in the water. Especially, on the retrieve. Tie it to your side view mirror so it drags with you when you drive up the ramp. That’s the final fail-safe. It should keep your car dry if you can’t get traction but someone will probably still have to tow/assist you. But at least the car is dry.
If you have help, have your helper stand next to driver door with a rubber wheel chock, if vehicle begins to slide backwards immediately drop the wheel chock behind front tire. Put vehicle in park, emergency brake on, then take the boat off the trailer. Try to pull empty trailer out of the water while helper removes wheel chock and replaced it if unable to pull trailer all the way out. Once trailer is out of the water begin begging others there with 4x4 to retrieve your boat, maybe even for a small fee
Also, a boat does not have to 'float off the trailer' if it means backing onto a slippery area. Back down only as far as safe, the push boat into water. And when reloading, use the winch. If you still can't get close enough, buy and new trailer or tongue extension. Cheaper than replacing the vehicle after submersion! :)
Once a two-wheel drive truck gets Wheels on the slime they can't move forward.... And every time they try they go backwards a little bit until bloop bloop bloop bloop........ And of course some people simply don't use the parking brake.... Or wheel chocks. I've never seen anybody actually use wheel chocks but me....but I chock the front wheel every time... They're only like 8 bucks at harbor freight
I used to pull my i/o 18 ft with a plymouth caravan. Short highway hauls were fine .. the boat ramp could be entertaining though for those watching . People likely thought i was a newby.. am not ..just dont have the coin for a 4x4 truck..
Any way it way usually not a problem getting the boat out depending on the ramp i was st.. every so often i got a slippery or wet ramp or too much sand building up on the trailer wheels.
Ever seen a plymouth caravan smoking the front tires.. i could get it looking like a guy with a mustang doing burnouts in the parking lot.
High fives all around from the on lookers after getting the boat out and leaving 10 ft of rubber on the ramp.
Good times.
@jeffsim8664 I only have a couple blocks to the ramp on a dead end road. I use an ATV to launch a pontoon and 17' fishing boat. I sure get some looks but it works really good
Low gear is the quickest way to break the tires loose. On a muddy day at the MX track we always pull the holeshot in 2nd. Also loading the boat at first will take tongue weight off the vehicle's rear end or possibly even lift it . Not good on rear wheel drive. Be safe!
It’s ideal to have someone that knows what’s going on in the boat, with it running, to help push the truck in if it goes bad. Don’t always have that person, so check the ramp first, only go back as far as absolutely necessary, let the boat(gravity and/or bouyancy) do the work. I hade a friend that lost his 11 year old daughter in a situation like this, just awful.
Drivers that don't set the parking brake or forget and leave it in reverse or neutral.
😁👍🏻 Or people putting the trailer wheels off the ramp slabs at low tide, which can change. I launched in twenty years. When you do it all the time it looks easy to others, but you gotta know what you’re doing.
Thanks for the reminder.
I'm sorry, why did he just cut that off? @1:13?
"If you can what"?
"If you can, try and keep the rear wheels out of the slime/algae". I have the entire video on my course so I started talking about something else that I couldn't edit cleanly so that's why I cut it off so abruptly. Sorry about that.
@@LazyLocations thank you so much for getting back so quick!
I thought, or was imaging something along lines of, "bring a push broom for these types of situations, along with a wire brush or some sort"
😂 silly me.
But nonetheless, thank you for getting back this quick! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
@@charlievelez3510 That could work too! I've also seen people use a wheel chock under the front driver side wheel to keep from rolling back. Attached by a rope looped around the sideview mirror and it'll drag with the truck when exiting the ramp. Genius!
Lots of 4wd trucks have mud grips that work good in mud but not so great on slippery concrete.
Great point!
If you have lockers use them
i have a paddle boat and i use the boat launch for it, not backing my trailer in but its a convienient place to put my 5x8 boat. that slimey launch is no joke ive slipped there so many times getting the boat in the water.
I wonder how many of these "accidents" are actually tenatives to defraud the inssurance companies by making them pay for a truck the owner can no longer pay for or just wants to get rid of without paying for it.
Love your Whaler
Thx Jack!
Great advice. Great boat. Wouldn't even be a passenger in a Japanese vehicle.
I've never owned a 4x4 and always drove small to mid sized trucks. Never had a problem at the boat ramp. Trick my Dad taught me was let a little air out the back tires like you're at the trail head going off-roading. Next is to wedge a pipe onto the brake pedal inbetween the seat bottom. And obviously do your best to keep rear wheels outta the waterline! My truck has never slid back down a boat ramp and I've never lost traction. Boat is a 19' Bow rider Sea Nymph with 115hp.
I like it! Thanks for the info.
It locks the front wheels too and provides traction
What’s the rough price to rescue a vehicle that’s went into the water
That's a good question. I would think an easy $500+. Also depends on size of trailer and boat and how messed up they are. Many times divers have to be used too.
There are ramps at places like Fayette County Lake where moss grows on the ramps at the water line. Trucks pet their back tires in that moss and slide back.
Used to keep a 5 gallon pail of course sand in my truck throw a coffee can worth in the slime line it's cheap insurance... key is course sand...
When you stop to unload, or stop to load the boat, you should also engage the parking brake
Deflating your tires a bit is an off-roading trick that might give you more traction if your wheels are slipping.
Thats what I was going to say and never see covered with boaters. Especially with PUs that tare light in the back etc. Not everyone can afford a 4wd. Also there is some traction things you can put down on the road like for ice that would also work if that happens
Number 1 reason: idiots. I never had a problem. Sure I made minor mistakes, but never forgot a drain plug, never forgot my safety chains, had 4wd but never needed it. Got to have a routine and stick with it, and if something does go wrong, don’t panic, keep a cool head, and things will work out.
Algae gets so bad, I wear those metal cleats (ice creepers) on my shoes sometimes to walk around on the ramp & undo safety straps or whatever
I hear ya. That's definitely needed at times!
What about the rear differential getting submerged in water? Is that ok?
That could definitely cause a potential problem for the transmission if the rear is submerged long enough.
@@LazyLocations You think 10 minutes is ok? That’s the only thing I’m worried about
I think it’s ok because so many trucks do it and I never hear about consequential problems. Look it up online to see if you can find specific info about it. What I found was conflicting. Also, it might be best to ask your car mechanic.
@@LazyLocations Ok thanks, I won’t attempt it for now. Trying to tow a 2005 Centurion Avalanche with a weight of 3,200 lbs and trailer weight of about 1,000 lbs with a 2021 4Runner only 4 miles away. Will do some more research, thank for the video I’ll put I in 4L when launching and retrieving. Will probably tow it in 4th gear max
Differentials get wet all the time. If they were susceptible to water intrusion you'd have problems with fluid escape as well.
put a second ball hitch on the front bumper .
They back up too far and drive the trailer tires off the edge of the pavement. The trailer drops off the ramp end point and is stuck until it is lifted out.
I have seen it 100 times.
It seems to me that boat docks should have mandatory concrete pylons (or something) that you can connect a tow hitch to as a safeguard. Therefore if you do begin to slip or get pulled, you will only go so far. That's pretty cheap insurance. Other possible ideas are encouraged.
Almost seems like having a more beefy front wheel on the trailer that can be raised or lowered wouldn't be a horrible idea. have a winch on either the truck or the trailer, conect the 2 with the winch, unhitch and gently roll the trailer back while the truck has nice traction on dry land. would need to be something tougher than the normal jocky wheel thats on most small trailers to aid with moveing the trailer by hand.
Some great content rt here, Thank you !
Do you used 4wd when towing the boat on the freeway? Or do you use it getting in the water and out the water?
No, I just use "4WD Low" at the ramp. As soon as I'm ready to leave the ramp I switch back to 2WD for normal road towing.
@@LazyLocations thank you alote
@@LazyLocations thank you much l really love those videos.
Don't do it on the highway!! Transfer case will go bang
@@robertgoodwin2787 thank you
Helpful, thank you!
Wait i’m confused…so i’m a moron who backs up too far and when i try to move forward my rear tires slip and spin so instead of putting on the brakes which would lock the front tires as well and calling for help i just floor it and let the rear tires spin as i slide into the water?? Sounds like some people should not be behind a wheel. I have always said no man should own a 2wd truck as well…. 🙄 if your algae comment is correct and you have a 2wd truck that goes too far and the rear tires are in the water and spinning the only thing you could do is press the brake pedal (not the emergency brake) locking all four tires and call for help. That’s your only shot.
had a 4000 lb wellcraft for 30 years always used 4x4 low never slipped once
Odds are you used the same ramp/s during that time. Slippage occurs unexpectedly at new ramps with different angles and water levels.
This happens when people are underwater on their trucks and have paid up GAP and insurance.
Underwater. I saw what you did there. lol
You would think the park or city workers would monitor the ramp because it's so heavily used, and then scrub the algea away.
Lol, why should people using a public boat ramp be baby sat at taxpayers expense?
Because 2wd. Anytime I launch any boat 4lo and two footed driving braking and gas to stop any roll back.
That slime is a killer. I can't tell you how many times I've slipped. Even when it looks clear, it is not! Be careful. I always, always, always use 4 x 4.
Wonder why people don’t throw down some sand on the ramp.
The front brakes are no good unless your foot is on the foot pedal. If the back tires are spinning and your foot off of the brick you're going in. Is cut a tubafourtwo fit the brake paddle to the stirring wheel when not in the truck. Most people are spinning the backtires and going backwards. It's called panic.
Can I use the word algae. Two wheel drive truck brakes not working too good. Keyword don't panic.
Always use parking brake when parking
When I'm pulling the boat out the water. Do I engage to 4h or 4L to get the boat out?
4WD Low
@@LazyLocations thank you again
If you're having problems getting the boat up the ramp and you're not alone, have someone put the boat in forward and apply the throttle, it will help remove the weight from the trailer and boat and actually push the truck a bit. Shut off the outboard before your prop leaves the water.
You should also use your parking/emergency brake so all of that weight isn’t sitting on your parking gear. Being in “L” or gear #1 doesn’t change anything. It just means it will bounce off the rev limiter instead of shift when you keep spinning(you shouldn’t be staying on the gas while spinning on a boat ramp though lol)
I’m not sure I understand your comment. You definitely must have the e brake on when stopped on the ramp. You also have to be on the gas if the wheels are spinning. Please clarify.
@@LazyLocations The only thing that would happen if you put the gear selector on “L” is you would stay in gear 1. Meaning if you were spinning with your foot on the gas like a dumbass, all that would happen is you would bang off the rev limiter instead of shifting. You aren’t getting any better traction, or any benefit…other than limiting yourself to 1st gear.
Shifting means nothing. When you’re caught in the algae it doesn’t matter if you’re in 2wd low/2 or auto. If you’re spinning in low then you’re definitely spinning in the higher gears. Also, you specifically mentioned you should use the pkg brake (which is obvious). My point is once you’re off the brake and trying to accelerate up the ramp the pkg brake is no longer a factor. If and when the spinning starts you’ll keep spinning as you slowly roll into the water. Bottom line, use 4WD if you have it.
@@LazyLocations Right I agree shifting means nothing. Hence I dispute your recommendation of being in “L” on the column AKA 1st gear. Obviously the parking break shouldn’t used when moving. Although it’s good to “relax” the load on the parking break by inching forward a little before releasing. Parking break engaged before you shift into park so it takes the load, reducing wear on your parking gear. Won’t ever have that SLAM when putting the column back in drive on the ramp. Another factor is the kind of tires you’re running. Soft compound all terrains are going to resist slippage a lot more than conventional highway tread with harder compound(both of course aired properly).
Proper way to set parking brake:
-With foot on the brake apply the parking brake.
-Shift to neutral.
-Release foot brake.
-Allow parking brake to absorb load.
-Shift to Park.
When ready to go:
-Foot on brake.
-Shift to forward gear.
-Release parking brake.
This will prevent parking pawl damage inside the transmission. The park pawl is designed to hold the vehicle steady on a flat or moderate grade, it is not designed to hold a heavy boat and trailer on a steep ramp.
And always roll down your windows ! To escape ! 😇
I've always had 4wd tow vehicles but I've only used it twice in close to fifty years of boating/towing. The number one reason is driver error/poor judgement.
My favorite ramp, Blackburn in Nokomis,Fl
So nice!