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www.youcanic.c... This video provides a detailed guide on replacing the rear brake pads and rotors on a 2014-2018 Mazda 3. The presenter takes the viewer through each step of the process, from identifying the location of the brake pads and rotors to removing the old parts and installing the replacements. The video includes clear and easy-to-follow instructions and close-up shots of the parts involved to help viewers understand the process. Additionally, the presenter offers tips and advice on how to avoid damaging parts while completing the replacement and ensure proper alignment and functionality of the new brake pads and rotors. Whether you're a Mazda 3 owner needing a rear brake pad and rotor replacement or interested in learning more about car maintenance, this video is a valuable resource.
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Good video! I wish it had been one of the many videos I watched before trying my own! Your best addition is the explanation of how to use the piston retractor tool - it took me a long and frustrating time to figure out how to get that tool to apply sufficient pressure so that I could turn the handle. Also, it was hard to be certain that I was using the right adaptor, until it actually worked. The adaptor didn't seem to sit quite right, even though it was the only one that actually fit.
The other big challenge I had was breaking the nuts on the caliper carrier. Access is tight, and there's no room for a long breaker bar. One nut in particular gave me trouble, and it was a lot of force to finally get it going with my ratchet.
Thanks for the video - great job!
Don't forget to clean the rotor surface with brake clean before installing
Cheers for the guidance and time for putting this video together (I enjoyed the no-nonsense silence-fast-forward portions of the video - time saver). I live close to the dealer and utilize their services for oil changes on my wife's car. They quoted me $800-$900 for a brake job. It took me some time, and some pain, but it saved me $550 - $650, and gave me satisfaction in various ways (put in gentleman terms, not getting overcharged).
My only suggestion is showing how to remove the rotor - you skipped this. It helps to purchase a spare M8-1.0 bolt when you purchase the brakes. There is a threaded bolt hole in the rotor for extraction purposes. Using a bolt (and threading it into the rotor) separates the rotor from the axle. Otherwise you are stuck beating on/prying on the rotor. I recommend using a 'spare' bolt, as the rotor threads are rusted, which will sacrifice the bolt-threads, making the bolt unusable (hopefully this makes sense - a picture is worth a thousand words). Hope my review was helpful. Thanks again.
You don’t need that tool, I use a pair of needle nose pliers to turn it, just be careful not to pinch or damage the boot.
Edit: also loosen the brake fluid reservoir when turning a caliper back, it will help with the resistance it gives
Any body know the name of the tool he used on the brake caliper
Chief its called a disc caliper rewind tool
Simple and straightforward, excellent.
Not torquing the caliper bolts to any spec???
20ft-lbs for the pins, 80ft-lbs for the bracket
thank god you should this video I had the E brake on mine on and it would not budge!!!
Same
Just did my 17 gt with epb and built in Mexico. I was surprised not to see pad clips. The pads just sit on the bare bracket. Is this normal? I think Mazda screw up with the Mazda 3 brakes. The outboard pad wear much faster than the inboard pad. And the piston rubber boot doesn’t fold back in shape as it should.
Some cars don't have bracket hardware, you should carefully loosen the rubber boot from the piston ring before spinning it in or the boot will scrunch up, I give it a little spray with silicone spray to help loosen it up
These brakes have been quite tricky getting into them for the first time on a used car. Which size caliper retractor did you use? I rented a kit from the local auto parts store but didn’t have the correct size for this job.
The carrier bolts stumped me at first. I found sliding an Allen wrench between the inner bolt head and caliper body make a snug and simple hold while turning the outer bolt.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, without more specific details, we couldn't provide the exact size of the caliper retractor. However, YOUCANIC provides a wide range of resources to help car owners like yourself, including a platform for you to [ask car-related questions](www.youcanic.com).
Regarding the carrier bolts, your solution with the Allen wrench sounds ingenious! For more detailed help with repair procedures, consider using our [OEM Factory Repair Manuals](www.youcanic.com/scanner). Your trust in YOUCANIC is greatly appreciated, and we strive to be your go-to source for all things automobile-related.
I have a 2015 and it uses the #4 die in the kit. This car in the vid has an e-brake he says, mine doesn't, and the face of my piston is different. Also, brake squealer goes on the inboard pad leading edge, at the bottom.
Dam the 14mm that holds carrier is jammed , and striping :( . Use to be just 2 bolts, now there is 4!
Not good these video for mazda 2018 with electric parking break😔
I have a 2014. I changed all rotors and pads. My driver side rear brakes are creaking now when I apply the brakes. It doesn't matter if I'm driving or if I'm parked. It's driving me crazy. I applied lube to all metal contact points. Any suggestions would be great!
Is it possibly the clip that holds the pads? I think I had this issue a while back and the clip was scraping my rotor
@@RM-cx2kk even when it was in park?
I cannot for the life of me get these 13mm bolts out
Nice. I need to remove the brake cable cos i need to get a socket on that fu cking caliper.❤❤
I just did the brakes on my 2015.
Must have worn the pads a little too thin and over extended the piston so it wouldn't turn at all.
Gave her a couple of taps with a hammer and she rotated like butter!
Just a tip for people who struggle and come to this video to find out what they might be doing wrong.
Thanks for sharing legend.