Little update on Oakmoss... at the moment IFRA restricts the material to 0.1% in a final product... the EU regulations however passed an updated restriction last year, basically making it prohibited all together. Though it looks like there's a time period on making that strict... Come 2021, so 3 years from now, you can't put a product on the market in the EU containing Oakmoss, or specifically the allergens that are contained within it. Because of "dangers to human health"
Let's see...can't wear the slightest amount of a natural substance that may cause an mild reaction in a small percentage of people (yep, forego simply warning people with allergies to avoid the product)...yet, the government says it perfectly healthy for GMOs, growth hormones, antibiotics and a million and one toxins and chemical goo to be added to our water and frankenfoods (this crap that is making people sick and allergic in the first place) because our politicians are owned by the lobbyists? Oh that rights...the aroma and flavoring industries cannot patent a natural ingredient so let's just ban it out of existence so they can sell faux oakmoss to the masses instead. Sure, their genitals will most likely fall off after using these products for a couple decades, but at least they won't have a mild skin irritation should they forget to shower within 24-hours of wearing an oakmoss perfume. LOL! People are so stupid... :(
Which also begs the question, how are they determining this "dangers to human health." I am very against the animal testing route that apparently is still being utilized in the industry. It's appallingly barbaric, but that aside, the animals are also not a human model...so how are they determining this "danger." I saw another comment elsewhere about the restrictions that I will comment under as well relating to monetary interests and control of the patented aromachemicals...delving into conspiracy just a bit, but a topic that is impossible to ignore. Cheers, great vid Peter.
Brilliant, brilliant!!! you really explain how you “smell” the oils. This is great. I can almost smell the oil when you describe them. It really is ashamed about all the restrictions. I have perfumes from the 1920s to the 1960s that are unbelievably beautiful. I don’t think they could be reproduced today. One of the first perfumes that used synthetics was Jicky made first in 1898 from Guerlain. Still made today, but the old and vintage has real sandalwood, patchouli, absinthe. It was formulated for men, but women loved it so much they took it over. First unisex perfume. I just think you should review when you find a masterpiece, even if it doesn’t quite appeal to you, you really have the talent to know it’s a masterpiece. Highlight the best and interesting leave the bad reviews to others. Your perfumes will be be a success and so will you. I really think you got it man. Use that gift!! All the best to you and Bravo, 👏
Yes! Good good good. Excellent! This is the kind of stuff I absolutely love to watch. As I am learning all the materials I am gaining valuable knowledge and experience in blending. Awesome job Peter. Thank you for this. Keep them coming! X
Peter. I got my hands on rose Damascena, Anatolian rose otto and rose De Mai. They've got nothing to do with rose Givco at all. I was shocked at how complex and intricate these are. Amazing, incredible. I've also acquired Indian mysore sandalwood and Jasmine absolute. This is what separates Matriarchs, Doves and Areej le Dores etc. from those made wholly using cheap synthetics. This real stuff is intoxicating. I've made a perfume for someone recently using the 3 roses mentioned above at the mid, Jasmine absolute and Sambac, as well as saffron that I tinctured 7 months ago; and mysore sandalwood at the base. I keep smelling this thing everyday. Keep up the good work. You got me started on this perfume making science when I didn't know where to start; I came across the first video you made on the subject which became a source of great help and teaching, and of course the subsequent video took it to another level. Thank you very much, your work is much appreciated. Keep up the fantastic work.
I saw this upload first thing this morning before starting my 12 hr shift and was itching all day to put a comment on this upload lol. This is definitely something you need to do more of Peter, these are great mate (a direction you should consider, in part, with regards to your potential fragrance house/TH-cam-channel conflict concerns - as stated in your previous upload); the comments below are testament to that!! Along with your excellent reviews, this is why I subscribed to you in the first place! Alora Dillon (Drop by Drop) and Dave Johnstone (Mountain Aromatics) are really the only other quality channels that are dedicated to this rare, TH-cam subject (which I've watched multiple times and getting educated in my own perfumery creation journey in the process). Seriously, I honestly think you are one of the best fragrance reviewers out there but there are now many reviewers 'clouding' this topic and are now 'ten-a-penny' in my view. Build on this Pete, considering topics on Essential Oils, Absolutes, CO2 Extracts, Enfleurages, Aroma Chemicals, making accords & building fragrances (obviously maintaining your 'secrets'), suppliers etc. (your call). This subject is vast in it's own right!! Thanks for doing this Mr Fragranceview...I support you all the way Brother!!
I agree with the scent of geranium having a rotten flower smell. I offset it with the use of very little Egyptian geranium blended with ylan ylang #3. Sometimes I will mix tagetes in the floral blend.
Ylang-ylang is lovely. I think it is my favorite floral note too. I think orange blossom is a good floral note to my nose as well. I like these types of videos because although there is no smell option on the internet, you do pick great words to describe each scent and, at times, your emotion can be felt through the screen. You do help us understand your perspective on the nature of fragrances, so thank you for posting these videos. :) Also, today (March 21st, I guess it is yesterday in your part of the world) is (or was) National Fragrance Day (at least in the U.S.). It would have been a great day to go over your fragrance life and talk about the impact of fragrance on you. :) I think scents impact people, even if they are not fragrance wearers.
I guess maybe I could do some kind of video on that tomorrow... it's kind of " national fragrance week " so I guess one day off the official "day" of it doens't matter
yeah but when you've got a planet full of people all only playing with 12 notes in a scale, the music ends up getting very repetitive very quickly... same with perfume, everything smells the same, very hard to make something new and interesting because we're all stuck with the same stuff
These kinds of videos are my favorite. I started watching your videos because of the past ones you've done about making perfumes, talking about scents that goes in perfumes, e.t.c. So of course, this one I like very much and hope you make more of them.
I remember, citronella often was an element of cosmetics and perfumes in the past; shown in the ingredients list. My beloved Midnight Poison is also a victim of these restrictions, I guess. Byredo made a good Rose Noir in my opinion, which has a modern twist on rose, the quality seems great. In general, I love rose also a lot, particullary with patchouli in combination. And orange blossom and jasmin absolut. I'd be interested in knowledge about patchouli. I'm searching for a scent for myself, so it shouldn't be old-fashioned and too dirty but comforting, uplifting, with longevity for daytime and wearable not only in the cold season. Very good video Peter, love it! Thanks!
elke gerhard I wish I could like patchouli. And I know there are different kinds of patchouli. But to me, it smells like medicine. And really Herby. And very pungent on the nose like really really strong medicinal scent. I just don't like it. But I do add it to my formulas. If I can't smell it in my formula but it blends well with other materials then great. But then if I smell the patchouli I gag.
Sad to know but we're all individuals, so we must accept it if your reaction is like this. But in general, lot of heavy scents contain some patchouli, often calmed down with vanilla and heliotrope for example. Wish you'll find someday a scent with P. which you like!
Geranium can be a great material if blended correctly. One of my favorite Byredo fragrances is Sunday Cologne which has that geranium coming through but not too hard to the point of becoming repulsive. Could have been slightly toned down though for my taste but only slightly.
Prominent floral notes were my biggest challenge when I first got into the perfume hobby (especially screaming rose and tuberose) but I really enjoy them these days...and especially love smelling them on the ladies. Cheers!
hey peter, thanks for this one. i was waiting for you to do another video on perfume making / materials knowledge. reading the comments here i totally understand so many people being annoyed of the "makes no sense" regulations of the ''bad'' eu and the french perfumery's near extinction :) but i think lot of people miss the bigger context of these regulations. those allergens are restricted/prohibited not only for perfume products , but for all commercial products like cosmetics, cleaning products, food and drinks, pharmaceutical etc....here eugenol as zinc oxide eugenol in dentistry for example, which all are chemical compounds we are confronted with on a daily basis and in so many cases you cant avoid, even if you want to. and fragrance chemicals are constantly everywhere around. talked to a taxi driver recently , he was telling me about this woman , which jumped in his taxi and after 5 min she got such a terrible reaction from his car freshener, coughing and suffocating. last week i took a taxi myself and he had such brutal violets car freshener and i started thinking this guy is breathing those ionones constantly , how is that any good :)) the loser in this case is the art of perfume making, down here someone commented about a painter and using colors, better not those poisonous colors painters had to use centuries ago :) but yeah i also dont disagree for the unbalanced regulatory politics of eu, a lot of shit still widely available especially in agriculture and cosmetics, things you eat and apply on your body everyday... well , now with brexit you could pump as much oakmoss as you want and ignore the eu market :))
So very interesting, thank you for sharing your insights. I don't have all of these oils yet so the info on varying origins is nice for future reference.
I really enjoy these types of videos. Thank you Peter. I'm ordering 30 raw materials from perfumersworld. Video suggestion: if you could make videos covering in depth all your materials that you have . You could as an example do it systematically by covering woods in one video and aldehydes in anothe etc. Much like what you're doing now.
I couldn’t agree more about how geranium smells. It smells like the geranium plants my mother grew. It is very green and dirty with just a hint of something kind of floral. I don’t get citrus but it is sharp and herbal. Diluted its a little better but I still don’t like it. I have used it as a bug repellant. It’s interesting to hear someone else describe their own take on the raw ingredients such as absolutes and essential oils.
Your ingredient videos are eye opening. Thank you so much for your passion and for sharing your knowledge so freely, something rare to find in the world of perfumery. I would love to see more ingredient based reviews, and would request a video covering base notes like incense, resins, leather and suedes. I have been inspired by your videos and plan to place an order with pell wall for a set of ingredients to begin my own experiments with fragrance design, though honestly I am at a loss to decide on what to purchase to begin with since their library is absolutely massive. If you have any inputs for me in this regard, I would be most obliged to you.
Sure thing! shame the postage is so expensive at Pellwall, but they do offer discounts quite often if you sign up to their news letter, you get emails with promotion codes .. which helps. I'd say start with what interests you personally the most, maybe look at what's inside your favourite perfumes, and pick out a few of those...
Hello Peter. Thanks for your reply, I am so happy that you have acknowledged my post! I like your idea of looking to my favorite perfumes for inspiration on what to purchase from a raw materials provider. I would like your opinion on whether it would be advisable to choose one of my favorite perfumes and try to recreate the same using ingredients which I can buy, to try to get an idea of the ratios etc, or do you think this would be a very bad idea. My reasoning is that even though I may get similar ingredients to what constitutes my favorite perfume, that due to variations in distillation, raw material sources and such things, that trying to recreate something maybe a frustrating and confusing experience!
Just another question. What would you recommend being a starter fragrance to aim at for a beginner to make? If you could give me a suggestion on any particular perfume, then I can look up the ingredients list and place an order! I was personally looking at attempting ADP's Bergamotto di Calabria, which has top notes of bergamot, citron, middle notes of cedar, ginger and flowers (i may have to take some liberties with this one), though I can distinctly smell jasmine in this one, and base notes of vetiver, musk and benzoin.
You won't be able to copy it, no chance... even trained noses will struggle for months to try to copy. People use Gas Chromatography to copy scents. Though you could make something inspired by, and try and do something with similar feelings... a lot of materials used in mass perfumery can be "Captive" so it's not for sale to general public.. In general I'd so something along the Eccentric Molecules line, start with a big base of ISO E SUPER, HEDIONE, and add in other notes, to accent it, like the ones you listed
I’d love it if you could cover a bit more about accords and how to develop them. Also your recommendations on entry level dirty/skanky notes and how you decide which to use when.
Peter, please do a new video on making perfume including basics. it would be a really helpful thing for a lot of the noobies like me. if possible do one video on making perfumes only with naturals.
I don't enjoy geranium,neroli and sambac jasmine in perfumes. Weirdly it depends what tuberose is blended with as to whether it appeals but most florals I quite like. I get citrus from magnolia too. I like the 'waffling on randomly'😂It's interesting. Thank you❤I have smelt real rose in Kazimi and just wondering where else I may have...
Cool channel. I've been making some aftershaves etc with frankincense, rum, sandalwood, cedar, etc with witch hazel, and am tempted to try something more like a cologne. I even tried some tobacco and bay leaf tinctures, but I suspect that's not healthy. It must cost a fortune to get started... I would like to learn about oudh etc, but the prices are crazy. I'd love to learn more about tonka bean, vanilla, tobacco, and how to use strong smells like amber without stinking!
Dear Peter, your videos contain information on IFRA regulations and other stuffs - for e.g., what naturals can used at what %, what are typically used instead from synthatic, etcs. Rarely anyone mentions those. When you add that to the equation of marketing and fancy words and the fact that you mention some synthetic alternatives that are used, it becomes a bit more difficult to convince potential buyers as some of them will be more educated. It is for this reason (sharing of this type of information), I think, you should continue this channel even as and when you release your own perfumes. PS: I mentioned about moving to Asia jokingly as I saw your ALD preview video earlier today. I wish I could grab them all from the 1st series till now! I think you'll love Adam's oud oils as well.
Very informative! do you like the Tahitian Gardenia? also, are you referring to Turkish or Bulgarian Rose (Rosa Damascena )? have you smelled Ta'if Rose?
Ramkumar Chinnappa Really long lasting base notes and fixatives that have 250-400 hours tenacity. If you want to make your fragrance more diffusive, powerful, and long lasting, one way is to focus more on the base and use multiple synergies within the materials used. I have learned from personal experience as well. Hope that helps, my friend :)
Hello Peter. It’s an absolute treat, these ingredients videos that you are doing. I have a question for you. I’ve tried fragrance after fragrance trying to find a true floral that reminds me of real flowers, for me, somehow a real flower smells more delicate, watery and in some way a little bit more effervescent as it were than what I’ve smelled in any fragrance. Is there any synthetic that could possibly recreate a watery effervescent vibe to make the florals feel a bit more realistic to my nose?
There's an all natural house in France... they have a very realistic floral bouquet built up mainly of different roses. It smells incredibly true to life to me, they're called Sharini, the fragrance is named Rose Blanche. That was like a watery light floral bouquet... If you can pick up a sample I'd recommend it.
I forgot to add, maybe a video on the different woods, or the base notes like amber, Benzoin. Or the different patchoulis there are many. What is the rules on selling perfumes privately? Still IFRA regulations?
Interesting video!! I was unaware of all the restrictions. I also thought hmm I really enjoy vetiver geranium by creed and wondered if you cared for that one since it has geranium in it.
Next level detail as always! How about something on a wear-at-home fragrance? Something probably subtle but that you'd love to smell on yourself all the time if you could. I saw you mention something similar a couple of years ago with the now-discontinued Kiehls Vanilla & Cedarwood. For you has anything topped that since or are any other offerings worthy of consideration?
I wouldn't want to smell the same every day, I have to be in the mood for certain things.. You're looking specifically for a vanilla ? There's a couple of others I enjoy.. By Kilian - Amber Oud is a very nice warm boozy vanilla.. Ivory Route by Xerjoff is lovely, as is Lira by the same brand.. Both are spiced Vanillas.... Lira has more fruit and citrus in the top. Annick Goutal have a great vanilla I like called Ambre Sauvage
Not vanilla specifically but it does appeal more and more to be honest, even if its not a note i'd wear out too often. I guess what appeals from your verbal description is when its balanced with things like leather (which i like), tobacco (never really smelled) or cedarwood and the like. Previously I've always gravitated towards woody notes or vetivers and fresher (i guess safer) fragrances and well away from anything sweet but i'm having my mind slowly changed! Those other two are great suggestions i'll check them out - thanks a mill
Super interesting video. What are the reasons for all these restrictions? Is it purely because of the rarity and protection of the raw materials? I expect there is more to it.. 🤔
I don’t typically care for heavy doses of any floral except rose. On occasion I like big doses of some others. I wonder if it’s Egyptian Jasmine that is used in Al-Khatt? I get tobacco in the drydown, but it’s not in the notes.
FragranceView I know you did...I remember your statements on it quite well...”like diarrhea after eating too much candy”...something along those lines lol. That doesn’t bother me, I still love it! After the opening the skanky oud fades into the background (it never disappears, like some ppl claim though) then I get a fruity jasmine, which starts to smell honeyed in the drydown, along with tobacco...however the only fruit listed is bergamot, and there’s no honey or tobacco...but that’s what I get...with the skanky oud in the background.
just because it's not listed doesn't mean it's not there though, they never include everything on the break downs... some of it could be natural facets of the Oud though, Oud is hugely complex and has a lot of natural nuances, so the tobacco vibe could be from that
HI Peter I was wondering if you had a suggestion for helping me find a olive leaves oil or something closest to this to help finish my scent I'm creating I would like to complete my fragrance with refreshing greens !
As far as I am aware, there's no kind of natural essential oil for that.. There are synthetics that mimic green leaves, and accords that can be created too.
these are the videos that I most enjoy. Which oils do you recommend to start training your nose from zero?... there are so many notes and so many different oils from each note that it becomes difficult to make a choice
I like ylang ylang but unfortunately I don’t have a favorite fragrance with this as dominant note. Hopefully you can create something that’s much more magical than what’s available in the market. Completely enjoyed inside perfume talk video. Thanks!
Hi, Peter. Sorry if my Q sounds silly but how to be sure that the ingridience we want to use will be not toxic together? Also, there are many videos how to do a parfume at home but they do not contain all these elements. So, are they parfumes or just alcohol spray with essential oils?
there's no reaction between common perfumer materials that would create something toxic.. don't worry. If it's a combination of oil and alcohol and it smells, it's a perfume, just some and more simple than others
Have you ever had the chance to smell Taif Rose? It's suppose to be of the highest quality compared to the others, but it's extremely expensive and hard to come by.
Dear Peter, Happy New Year ! I am an herbalist & beginner incense & perfume formulator. Most of my medicinal tinctures are from plants I grow in my garden or forage locally. I am most interested in making tinctures from raw materials to then mix into perfumes. Do you do this yourself ? or can you point me in the right direction ? I’m watching all your videos with genuine enjoyment. Thank you for sharing your gift with us ~ Rachel
Can't do it legally in the UK in commercial perfume without having safety paper work for it.. Tincture process is limited to what will actually tincture well, not everything tinctures. The main things people tincture are Ambergris and Vanilla beans. Things like Rose, Lavender things you can grow in the garden.. will not produce a particularly strong tincture, it's just easier to purchase an absolute or essential oil which will smell better, and last longer. You won't really be able to make a good perfume, or one that lasts more than 10 minutes on skin with using that kind of self made tincturing.. Unless you plan on weaving it with other materials, but still the strength of the tinctures would be very light in comparison..
@@FragranceView I appreciate your honestly. It’s confusing because there’s all these romantic sounding articles popping up & natural perfumers that hint around at making plant tinctures for perfumes...but don’t talk much at all about how they might actually work in a perfume..I. e strength of scent or how long a scent might last..so it seems very misleading. Do you have any thoughts to share on enfleurage or making an absolute from a tincture? Could these techniques produce an outcome worth the painstaking process ? It sounds like I’ll have to just experiment as well as invest in the oils. I have a liquid amber tree I want to try to tap and know where I can get loads of oak moss ..but am scratching my head at how to make a solvent extraction. Hope you’re taking care & Thanks so much for your 2 scents
Enfleurage is something you'd need to learn from a professional to do it well.. You can't make an absolute from a tincture, it's two completely different ways. Absolute comes from strong solvent extraction which creates a thick waxy substance they call a concrete, then they separate the oil from the concrete in a vacuum.. you wouldn't be able to do that at home. Tincturing is just a material floating in alcohol, and then using the alcohol, two different methods. Essential oils are from steam distillation where the hot water streams up through the plant material, and then condenses through a cooling tube, and what comes out is water, and essential oil. The amount of flowers you would need to create just a small amount of oil wouldn't be worth while for a hobbiest at home either even if you could.. I don't mean to put you off, it's just realistic, you can play around with tinctures and see what works for you..
@@FragranceView I made my first enfleurage attempt last summer and now know I need a proper set up with the appropriate enfleurage trays. I actually got a pretty good scent from my sunflowers before the whole thing grew mold. I’ll try again. I’m not put off by your realism. I think I have an idea of how much tenacity and hard work it takes to grow & forage your own materials because I’ve been making herbal medicine for a few years now. I know making good natural perfume will take time and patience. Trial & error. I have a copper still that I’ve been using to make my own hydrosol as well as essential oils. For me it’s very worth while to be involved in making scent from actual plant matter..it’s how I learn and connect deeply with nature & Spirit. The plants are why I began this journey a few years back. I’ve ordered a fair amount of essential oils from Eden botanicals to start with Oud being the very first one to spark incredible fascination and anticipation. Thanks for the conversation
Hiya, where can we find this list of restrictions?... so far I’ve only seen restrictions included in labels for preservatives etc...I wasn’t aware of the oak moss and fortunately haven’t added it to any formulas- but was about to😱
i loved this review! thank you! if i go over the restrictions on a personal perfume that i make for myself, could i get sick? possibly make others around me sick?
Not a fan of tea fragrance and interesting that you mentioned that mimosa smells like tea and I’m not fond of mimosa in some cases. Interesting review. Why are some elements restricted? What is the danger?
Thanks for the vid. Peter. I’m wondering if the smell of row materials represents the exact smell of real thing. For example: does the geranium oil smell the same as the geranium flower and leaves??!
It was listed as a Solvent Extraction, bought from Hermitage Oils in Europe hermitageoils.com/product/gardenia-absolute/ The Magnolia is a bit more complicated... but you can read here hermitageoils.com/product/magnolia-heart/
Why are the restrictions so harsh on these ingredients? Is it to protect the species (floral, woods etc) or is it a control of a supply/demand situation? Very informative video. PS: don’t stop reviewing if you create you’re own line. People watch your videos because they’re more than just typical reviews. You take a more personal approach and speak to what interest you and people connect with that.You’re channel is informative and teaches others about fragrances. Don’t stop what you’re passionate about, especially if you’re good at it. Good job so far buddy.
It's a complex issue... they would like you to believe it's for safety, some are allergens and may cause rashes in a certain small percentage of people. There could be darker reasons for it, like the big companies that control the perfume industry patenting and creating the replacement versions, then influencing restrictions on the real, forcing everyone to buy their material instead of the real. At the same time as pushing the price of the real oil up to a point, where a lot of people will find it not cost effective. Thanks man
Wait! Is mimosa just acacia? I'm from Australia and we just call it acacia. A plant in full bloom is amazing on a spring day. Lovely scent. You should try get some brown boronia oil. Its awesome. Daphne should be used more so in perfumes i believe.
Did you just take your how to make perfumes made simple private ? I was going to watch it when I has sufficient time. I got to the first to books you mentioned , but stopped. I also didn't write them down. What were they again ?
Yeah, re-making the video next week... gonna adjust a few things, and re make it better.. Main books I referenced for beginners at home were Mandy Aftel - Fragrant the secret life of scent. Roja Dove The Essence of Perfume and Jean Claude Ellena The Diary of a Nose
Super! Question: What makes a synthetic synthetic? When you talk about a replacement for rose, does it mean it's totally fabricated, or is it a natural rose product that has had the offending bits removed, or is it part natural and part synthetic?
a true synthetic is put together by a person, created in a lab, that can't be found in nature... like an ozone note or something like that.. There's a grey line with certain things because you can also create in a lab by a person with molecules that by themselves are extracted from natural essential oils, like eugenol... and piece together a "rose replacement " which technically contains "natural" pieces of information placed together by a chemist. Yet was not distilled from a flower... so it's not synthetic in the sense of it's not new artificial elements created to make something new that doesn't exist in nature. It's real chemicals from real different essential oils.. to create something already in nature. Just building it up like lego instead of actually getting the full effect straight from a flower. That way they can leave out many of the allergic dangerous elements of the full rose.
Frankensmell... Is there a name for this class of smells? Also, when putting together something like a "rose replacement", you're saying that the components would have nothing to do with a natural rose itself? Where do the components come from (essential oils from other flowers, or even common things such as grains, or other plants)? Is it possible to completely recreate a natural smell with sourced components, and if so, do they smell exactly the same, or does the process of breaking up and putting bits back together affect the end result?
No the rose replacement does contain natural chemicals found in rose... it still uses the same materials rose does, but they add in other stuff as well, and take away dangerous elements. To me the rose replacement does not smell like a rose absolute, it's sweeter, lighter, more rosy.. You can tell it doesn't smell "real" in my opinion... even though it's made up of real elements..
Many thanks 😊 my question is can you store floral absolutes and oils in room temperature (cool, dark, dry place) and for how long? Btw if you want to make perfume for yourself only you can go crazy with %; right?
yes it's fine, the last for years so don't worry too much.. you can do whatever you like if it's for you personally, just be careful of giving yourself a rash
Very Interesting, what exactly are synthetics? Correct me but, what chemicals are used to make a synthetic rose for example? And are these chemicals harmful? This is all new to me and I want to learn. It's like learning about wines as they too have their "bouquet". Your channel is educating me and not look dumb when buying perfume but also keep and understand a conversation if the occasion occurs. Thank you for what you do :)
They're not harmful no, they're typically a lot safer than a natural, because they either have no or very little allergens. Synthetics are basically compounds made by chemists in a lab artificially constructed to smell a particular way,
Very novice question here; What is the reasoning specifically for the restrictions on Eugenol, and Oakmoss? What type of toxicity is the risk, or is it allergen reactions that the restrictions are so heavy for these? Quite curious.
it's much broader, the restrictions cover many materials, but it's basically allergens. I small few percentage of the population may get a rash from certain things. Also some are just considered "dangerous" in general...
You might like the one I mentioned better; it reminds me of a bastard child of oakmoss and rose! If you get a chance, try and sample some Massoia Bark EO- think it's highly restricted, but it smells so bloody unique!
yes the restrictions are tougher for natural essential oils and absolutes, than they are for synthetics. Synthetics are designed in a lab to avoid the allergens essentially.
Brilliant video, thank you so much for the time and effort! I've started making my own 100% natural perfumes and I'm loving it and getting good results. I'm feeling quite downcast about the restrictions though as I love using some of the restricted materials as strong elements in a perfume - tuberose and rose to mention a couple. It would be great if you could make videos focussing on cracking this issue without the use of synthetics. I take heart in the fact that there are a small number of European perfumers who seem to manage it with really great results (Hiram Green and Marina Barcenilla for instance - goodness knows how they do it!)- and they surely must be following the guidelines as they sell commercially and are stocked in London stores etc. Any info you have on this subject would be very much appreciated. Thanks :o)
Marina makes use of some Natural Isolates, all though things like Rose Absolute you can use up to around 5 to 6% in a finished perfume if it's diluted to 20% - obviously more if it's only 10%, she doesn't have any over dose of rose in her creations.. It's difficult working within the restrictions for naturals, no doubt. It's a balance of using what you can, and experimenting with what % to mix the finished product to, to try and get the most out of a particular material. You might need to make a rose perfume at only 12% concentration to be able to pack in as much of it as you need in the concentrate without going over the limit of the final product
Thanks for your response - very helpful. Do you work with isolates and do they still have any of the restricted elements in them? Would you make a video about them? It's the next thing I'm going to investigate. Marina is based very close to where I live but her advanced workshop is out of my budget on top of buying materials. I wouldn't want to dilute any more than 20% with most of my perfumes - if you have any more tips on how to get natural perfume to smell stronger and last a little longer that would be ace (I know a lot of it has to do with experimenting/trial and error) as it's so difficult to find information on this. Can you point me in the right direction for info on: IFRA restrictions on naturals and on 'doing the maths' (not my strong point :-) Please.
Complicated to explain... I own a few Isolates, but you do have to check the Data Safety Sheets to make sure it's not containing anything restricted. - I found when it comes to naturals, for personal experience, they tend to start lasting longer and being stronger, the more material you use. So if you're blending a perfume with only 10 to 15 notes, it's most likely only going to last a couple of hours. Where as if you blend with 20 to 50 notes, you'll find it lasts much longer in general. Obviously cherry picking certain longer lasting notes obviously helps, and making use of a few natural fixatives... you go to the IFRA website, and click " Standards " tab, then type in the name of the material you want to check in the search bar, if nothing comes up, it's not restricted. Though if you type in something like just " Rose " it won't help, you need to be searching for the individual components that make up rose... Because Rose by it's self is not a restricted material, only it's components. Where as Jasmine as a material is restricted, so you search Jasmine it will tell you 0.7% for Absolute and 4% for Sambac. So the material is restricted as well as the individual elements within it. You can cross check it with The Good Scents Company, by using their search function on materials, and going down to the safety in use tab, which will give you a guideline on % to be used in concentration. It's not so easy to explain really
Thanks so much - It all feels a bit overwhelming, but at the end of the day there probably aren't that many oils I want to use regularly that are heavily restricted so the research and maths wont be too much of a drag - hopefully - and once I know, I'll be able to experiment within the boundaries and find out if it's still something I want to do. I really appreciate your advice here while I have my melt down about this. Loving your videos - so much excellent info - I'm off to buy some scout scales now :-)
I am not sure what's considered the "best" actually, I am sure there's a couple of rare ones that are difficult to attain... It's probably a specific variety of rose, and probably an Otto
that's just the type of oil.. like you get Rose Absolute, and Rose Otto.. the Otto is more concentrated, but it's not a specific variety of Rose... I am not sure which the most expensive Rose type is
Little question here....If the real rose oil was so restricted in perfume ...why kazimi can put like 7 diffrent rose in it???🤔🤔🤔🤔and....Please do the iris oil video!!highly intrested!!
Really thats not the way id describe or how geranium smells but i grew up with it my grandma grows so many of them kinda reminds me of the way her house smells. So has a bit of a uforic element for me
depending how the oil is sourced will have a slightly different odour profile, and the profile of the oil will not be the same as the fresh flower from a garden smells
FragranceView that makes alot of sence. So the geranium that i have might not be quite the same as yours. Still oddly smells like my grandmas house concentrated. She has too many geraniums to count. The floral oils smell very much like the flower they are from to me just concentrated. Im seeing what you mean though with the sharp citris type note. I never even noticed the different parts of it. pulled mine out to smell it to see what you ment.
is your gardenia steam distilled or?.....Magnolia (real) to me has a bright slightly acrid side to me w/a deep almost indolic backround. Mimosa seems like cool hay to me....or even a bit of camomile..the dryness of it. Real tuberose to me has a honey like backround..like a dying white flower to some extent a scent more thick than gardenia. That rose explaination was interesting...even if you could use he absolute..it wont "come up" enough cause of its restricion in the mix...........all this is so cool...
ok...Im not sure of the highest degree of that processing in terms of that gardenia itself does not produce any essential oils in nature. Ill check it out....i have smelled (many yrs ago) a true gardenia oil..its costly to produce as a true gardenia. Most gardenia is "synthetic"..even in high end perfuming for the most part.
Hey Peter, EU Comission banned two components of oakmoss completely: atranol and chloroatranol, therefore oakmoss is completely prohibited if you follow EU cosmetic rules. Also Lyral is prohibited also by the same regulations, so you should check your bases. For example my Rose Givco 217 base contains some Lyral.
atranol says it's restricted to 0.1% and chloroatranol also 0.1% through the IFRA site, but not completely prohibited, is there a new amendment that's missing? I presumed the IFRA library was correct... maybe it's not by the looks of it
The IFRA is not the only organization that makes restrictions on fragrances. EU regulations are more important and they are sometimes different from IFRA
The laws in America are still complicated, and vary from state to state... it would be a mission to do that from here, and you have the probably of shipping dangerous goods to the states.
Yes, but for the vast majority that is not allergic these EOs are beneficial as aromatherapy.Putting on a perfume with a dominant natural rose note creates a comforting mood to the person wearing it and those around them
I agree, the restrictions are based on solid and proven research while Aromatherapy is more like an alternative way of healing But i think that no one can deny the fact that natural scents are more pleasing and uplifting than artificial ones
thank you! i didn't understand what exactly you are sniffing, those weren't essential oils, but some special perfume materials? i am allergic to 95% contemporary perfumes that contain "musk" notes (i guess, those are synthetics that gives sillage), but no problems with real 100% oils that i use in aromatheraphy, containing all those restricted eugeniols 😊 take care!!
oh sorry, they were Absolutes.... I didn't think to say - strange about the musk, they claim synthetics are much safer than naturals.. but you're the opposite lol
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Little update on Oakmoss... at the moment IFRA restricts the material to 0.1% in a final product... the EU regulations however passed an updated restriction last year, basically making it prohibited all together. Though it looks like there's a time period on making that strict... Come 2021, so 3 years from now, you can't put a product on the market in the EU containing Oakmoss, or specifically the allergens that are contained within it. Because of "dangers to human health"
They'll kill the French Perfumery as well if they do so. Unbelievable!
FragranceView that’s just awful...I get it but I don’t like it.
Let's see...can't wear the slightest amount of a natural substance that may cause an mild reaction in a small percentage of people (yep, forego simply warning people with allergies to avoid the product)...yet, the government says it perfectly healthy for GMOs, growth hormones, antibiotics and a million and one toxins and chemical goo to be added to our water and frankenfoods (this crap that is making people sick and allergic in the first place) because our politicians are owned by the lobbyists? Oh that rights...the aroma and flavoring industries cannot patent a natural ingredient so let's just ban it out of existence so they can sell faux oakmoss to the masses instead. Sure, their genitals will most likely fall off after using these products for a couple decades, but at least they won't have a mild skin irritation should they forget to shower within 24-hours of wearing an oakmoss perfume. LOL! People are so stupid... :(
Jim R if I could ❤️ that comment I so would!!
Which also begs the question, how are they determining this "dangers to human health." I am very against the animal testing route that apparently is still being utilized in the industry. It's appallingly barbaric, but that aside, the animals are also not a human model...so how are they determining this "danger." I saw another comment elsewhere about the restrictions that I will comment under as well relating to monetary interests and control of the patented aromachemicals...delving into conspiracy just a bit, but a topic that is impossible to ignore. Cheers, great vid Peter.
Brilliant, brilliant!!! you really explain how you “smell” the oils. This is great. I can almost smell the oil when you describe them. It really is ashamed about all the restrictions. I have perfumes from the 1920s to the 1960s that are unbelievably beautiful. I don’t think they could be reproduced today. One of the first perfumes that used synthetics was Jicky made first in 1898 from Guerlain. Still made today, but the old and vintage has real sandalwood, patchouli, absinthe. It was formulated for men, but women loved it so much they took it over. First unisex perfume.
I just think you should review when you find a masterpiece, even if it doesn’t quite appeal to you, you really have the talent to know it’s a masterpiece. Highlight the best and interesting leave the bad reviews to others.
Your perfumes will be be a success and so will you. I really think you got it man. Use that gift!! All the best to you and Bravo, 👏
Cheers!!
Thanks for doing this video, Peter. These behind-the-scenes videos that you do are my favorites. Hope to see more! :)
Cheers
Yes! Good good good. Excellent! This is the kind of stuff I absolutely love to watch. As I am learning all the materials I am gaining valuable knowledge and experience in blending. Awesome job Peter. Thank you for this. Keep them coming! X
Thanks!
Peter. I got my hands on rose Damascena, Anatolian rose otto and rose De Mai. They've got nothing to do with rose Givco at all. I was shocked at how complex and intricate these are. Amazing, incredible. I've also acquired Indian mysore sandalwood and Jasmine absolute. This is what separates Matriarchs, Doves and Areej le Dores etc. from those made wholly using cheap synthetics. This real stuff is intoxicating. I've made a perfume for someone recently using the 3 roses mentioned above at the mid, Jasmine absolute and Sambac, as well as saffron that I tinctured 7 months ago; and mysore sandalwood at the base. I keep smelling this thing everyday. Keep up the good work. You got me started on this perfume making science when I didn't know where to start; I came across the first video you made on the subject which became a source of great help and teaching, and of course the subsequent video took it to another level. Thank you very much, your work is much appreciated. Keep up the fantastic work.
Cheers, great materials will always help make great perfume..
Peter your videos are so educational. I’m so glad that I found you!
I saw this upload first thing this morning before starting my 12 hr shift and was itching all day to put a comment on this upload lol. This is definitely something you need to do more of Peter, these are great mate (a direction you should consider, in part, with regards to your potential fragrance house/TH-cam-channel conflict concerns - as stated in your previous upload); the comments below are testament to that!! Along with your excellent reviews, this is why I subscribed to you in the first place! Alora Dillon (Drop by Drop) and Dave Johnstone (Mountain Aromatics) are really the only other quality channels that are dedicated to this rare, TH-cam subject (which I've watched multiple times and getting educated in my own perfumery creation journey in the process). Seriously, I honestly think you are one of the best fragrance reviewers out there but there are now many reviewers 'clouding' this topic and are now 'ten-a-penny' in my view. Build on this Pete, considering topics on Essential Oils, Absolutes, CO2 Extracts, Enfleurages, Aroma Chemicals, making accords & building fragrances (obviously maintaining your 'secrets'), suppliers etc. (your call). This subject is vast in it's own right!! Thanks for doing this Mr Fragranceview...I support you all the way Brother!!
Cheers!!
I agree with the scent of geranium having a rotten flower smell. I offset it with the use of very little Egyptian geranium blended with ylan ylang #3. Sometimes I will mix tagetes in the floral blend.
weird isn't it
Ylang-ylang is lovely. I think it is my favorite floral note too. I think orange blossom is a good floral note to my nose as well.
I like these types of videos because although there is no smell option on the internet, you do pick great words to describe each scent and, at times, your emotion can be felt through the screen. You do help us understand your perspective on the nature of fragrances, so thank you for posting these videos. :)
Also, today (March 21st, I guess it is yesterday in your part of the world) is (or was) National Fragrance Day (at least in the U.S.). It would have been a great day to go over your fragrance life and talk about the impact of fragrance on you. :) I think scents impact people, even if they are not fragrance wearers.
I guess maybe I could do some kind of video on that tomorrow... it's kind of " national fragrance week " so I guess one day off the official "day" of it doens't matter
would love a video on the restrictions - where to dive in and the journey to how you felt you got a good understanding?
It's a pretty long complicated subject!
It’s odd how engaging and satisfying it is, spending time with your impressions. You do share with us at a lot of levels. Thank you. M
Cheers!
Kind of depressing to know all this, its like a artists being restricted on the colors he can use in his paintings.
Exactly correct...
yeah but when you've got a planet full of people all only playing with 12 notes in a scale, the music ends up getting very repetitive very quickly... same with perfume, everything smells the same, very hard to make something new and interesting because we're all stuck with the same stuff
We are- remember flake white, and a few other colors that contained lead😂
These kinds of videos are my favorite. I started watching your videos because of the past ones you've done about making perfumes, talking about scents that goes in perfumes, e.t.c. So of course, this one I like very much and hope you make more of them.
Cheers Gollum
I remember, citronella often was an element of cosmetics and perfumes in the past; shown in the ingredients list.
My beloved Midnight Poison is also a victim of these restrictions, I guess. Byredo made a good Rose Noir in my opinion, which has a modern twist on rose, the quality seems great.
In general, I love rose also a lot, particullary with patchouli in combination. And orange blossom and jasmin absolut.
I'd be interested in knowledge about patchouli. I'm searching for a scent for myself, so it shouldn't be old-fashioned and too dirty but comforting, uplifting, with longevity for daytime and wearable not only in the cold season.
Very good video Peter, love it! Thanks!
Thank you!
elke gerhard I like rose and patchouli too
It's a classy and lovely combo and so versatile if it's well done.
elke gerhard I wish I could like patchouli. And I know there are different kinds of patchouli. But to me, it smells like medicine. And really Herby. And very pungent on the nose like really really strong medicinal scent. I just don't like it. But I do add it to my formulas. If I can't smell it in my formula but it blends well with other materials then great. But then if I smell the patchouli I gag.
Sad to know but we're all individuals, so we must accept it if your reaction is like this. But in general, lot of heavy scents contain some patchouli, often calmed down with vanilla and heliotrope for example.
Wish you'll find someday a scent with P. which you like!
Geranium can be a great material if blended correctly.
One of my favorite Byredo fragrances is Sunday Cologne which has that geranium coming through but not too hard to the point of becoming repulsive. Could have been slightly toned down though for my taste but only slightly.
Prominent floral notes were my biggest challenge when I first got into the perfume hobby (especially screaming rose and tuberose) but I really enjoy them these days...and especially love smelling them on the ladies. Cheers!
Cheers Jim
What a nice collection! That looks like fun
thanks!
hey peter, thanks for this one. i was waiting for you to do another video on perfume making / materials knowledge. reading the comments here i totally understand so many people being annoyed of the "makes no sense" regulations of the ''bad'' eu and the french perfumery's near extinction :) but i think lot of people miss the bigger context of these regulations. those allergens are restricted/prohibited not only for perfume products , but for all commercial products like cosmetics, cleaning products, food and drinks, pharmaceutical etc....here eugenol as zinc oxide eugenol in dentistry for example, which all are chemical compounds we are confronted with on a daily basis and in so many cases you cant avoid, even if you want to. and fragrance chemicals are constantly everywhere around. talked to a taxi driver recently , he was telling me about this woman , which jumped in his taxi and after 5 min she got such a terrible reaction from his car freshener, coughing and suffocating. last week i took a taxi myself and he had such brutal violets car freshener and i started thinking this guy is breathing those ionones constantly , how is that any good :)) the loser in this case is the art of perfume making, down here someone commented about a painter and using colors, better not those poisonous colors painters had to use centuries ago :) but yeah i also dont disagree for the unbalanced regulatory politics of eu, a lot of shit still widely available especially in agriculture and cosmetics, things you eat and apply on your body everyday... well , now with brexit you could pump as much oakmoss as you want and ignore the eu market :))
brexit won't change anything for the rules in the UK, they'll stay the same
wellllll if this video didn’t discourage me from attempting to create a commercially available perfume, nothing will 😂. Great video.
So very interesting, thank you for sharing your insights. I don't have all of these oils yet so the info on varying origins is nice for future reference.
cheers
frankincense I always relate the fresh coolness to Pine , not quite full menthol but whatever is in pine seems to be in there
yeah I'd go with that, all though the pine has a weird sweetness to it
These are some of my favorite types of videos you do. It would be interesting to see you make a perfume video while focusing on the legal restrictions
that would be complicated, and a lot of maths...
I really enjoy these types of videos. Thank you Peter. I'm ordering 30 raw materials from perfumersworld. Video suggestion: if you could make videos covering in depth all your materials that you have . You could as an example do it systematically by covering woods in one video and aldehydes in anothe etc. Much like what you're doing now.
It would be a pretty long video...
We don't mind. You can split it up or then only cover the ones you like most. Not on one video.
I couldn’t agree more about how geranium smells. It smells like the geranium plants my mother grew. It is very green and dirty with just a hint of something kind of floral. I don’t get citrus but it is sharp and herbal. Diluted its a little better but I still don’t like it. I have used it as a bug repellant. It’s interesting to hear someone else describe their own take on the raw ingredients such as absolutes and essential oils.
Thanks! It seems a lot of people use it as bug repellant!
Your ingredient videos are eye opening. Thank you so much for your passion and for sharing your knowledge so freely, something rare to find in the world of perfumery. I would love to see more ingredient based reviews, and would request a video covering base notes like incense, resins, leather and suedes.
I have been inspired by your videos and plan to place an order with pell wall for a set of ingredients to begin my own experiments with fragrance design, though honestly I am at a loss to decide on what to purchase to begin with since their library is absolutely massive. If you have any inputs for me in this regard, I would be most obliged to you.
Sure thing! shame the postage is so expensive at Pellwall, but they do offer discounts quite often if you sign up to their news letter, you get emails with promotion codes .. which helps.
I'd say start with what interests you personally the most, maybe look at what's inside your favourite perfumes, and pick out a few of those...
Hello Peter. Thanks for your reply, I am so happy that you have acknowledged my post! I like your idea of looking to my favorite perfumes for inspiration on what to purchase from a raw materials provider. I would like your opinion on whether it would be advisable to choose one of my favorite perfumes and try to recreate the same using ingredients which I can buy, to try to get an idea of the ratios etc, or do you think this would be a very bad idea. My reasoning is that even though I may get similar ingredients to what constitutes my favorite perfume, that due to variations in distillation, raw material sources and such things, that trying to recreate something maybe a frustrating and confusing experience!
Just another question. What would you recommend being a starter fragrance to aim at for a beginner to make? If you could give me a suggestion on any particular perfume, then I can look up the ingredients list and place an order! I was personally looking at attempting ADP's Bergamotto di Calabria, which has top notes of bergamot, citron, middle notes of cedar, ginger and flowers (i may have to take some liberties with this one), though I can distinctly smell jasmine in this one, and base notes of vetiver, musk and benzoin.
You won't be able to copy it, no chance... even trained noses will struggle for months to try to copy.
People use Gas Chromatography to copy scents. Though you could make something inspired by, and try and do something with similar feelings... a lot of materials used in mass perfumery can be "Captive" so it's not for sale to general public.. In general I'd so something along the Eccentric Molecules line, start with a big base of ISO E SUPER, HEDIONE, and add in other notes, to accent it, like the ones you listed
I’d love it if you could cover a bit more about accords and how to develop them. Also your recommendations on entry level dirty/skanky notes and how you decide which to use when.
ok sure
Love these kind of videos. Very interesting to get an insight into the fascinating world perfume.
Cheers!
Cheers
Woods! Also resins! And different skanky animal stuff that smell disgusting on their own and what they add to the composition.
Sure thing, thanks
I second this!
Really appreciate your evaluations and yes, you are good at verbalizing what scents are like. Would you consider talking about woody oils?
I already did :) here is a link:
th-cam.com/video/i5BKEcSRsUU/w-d-xo.html
I do like the vid.....id love the Iris one...its used alot in perfumery.
cheers will do
Really helpful but difficult not knowing if these are all synthetics or essential oils or absolutes...I feel like that's fairly important info
Peter, please do a new video on making perfume including basics. it would be a really helpful thing for a lot of the noobies like me. if possible do one video on making perfumes only with naturals.
ok sure
I would love that too - 100% naturals - particularly with regard to using materials with restricted elements to full effect within IFRA guidelines.
I don't enjoy geranium,neroli and sambac jasmine in perfumes. Weirdly it depends what tuberose is blended with as to whether it appeals but most florals I quite like. I get citrus from magnolia too. I like the 'waffling on randomly'😂It's interesting. Thank you❤I have smelt real rose in Kazimi and just wondering where else I may have...
thanks!
Cool channel. I've been making some aftershaves etc with frankincense, rum, sandalwood, cedar, etc with witch hazel, and am tempted to try something more like a cologne. I even tried some tobacco and bay leaf tinctures, but I suspect that's not healthy. It must cost a fortune to get started... I would like to learn about oudh etc, but the prices are crazy. I'd love to learn more about tonka bean, vanilla, tobacco, and how to use strong smells like amber without stinking!
Thank you! Good luck with your creations!
No wonder why some people don't like your videos. But I do. Thanks for the very useful video, Peter. Perhaps you want to move to Asia.
What do you mean? There's something in this video people won't like ?
Dear Peter, your videos contain information on IFRA regulations and other stuffs - for e.g., what naturals can used at what %, what are typically used instead from synthatic, etcs. Rarely anyone mentions those.
When you add that to the equation of marketing and fancy words and the fact that you mention some synthetic alternatives that are used, it becomes a bit more difficult to convince potential buyers as some of them will be more educated. It is for this reason (sharing of this type of information), I think, you should continue this channel even as and when you release your own perfumes.
PS: I mentioned about moving to Asia jokingly as I saw your ALD preview video earlier today. I wish I could grab them all from the 1st series till now! I think you'll love Adam's oud oils as well.
How did you get to the point of confidence with IFRA compliance ???
Another amazing video thanks for all the help
cheers
I personaly don't considder geranium a floral - I think it's distilled from the entire plant, that idea helps me with the appreciation of what it is.
Love this; infinitely interesting (plus, a good source of knowledge for things to put in poems).
thanks
I would like to start what are a good first 10 to start with. Or is there a vid
Very informative! do you like the Tahitian Gardenia? also, are you referring to Turkish or Bulgarian Rose (Rosa Damascena )? have you smelled Ta'if Rose?
if I want to make my perfumes long lasting,what should I add
Magic
Ramkumar Chinnappa
Really long lasting base notes and fixatives that have 250-400 hours tenacity. If you want to make your fragrance more diffusive, powerful, and long lasting, one way is to focus more on the base and use multiple synergies within the materials used. I have learned from personal experience as well. Hope that helps, my friend :)
Hello Peter. It’s an absolute treat, these ingredients videos that you are doing. I have a question for you. I’ve tried fragrance after fragrance trying to find a true floral that reminds me of real flowers, for me, somehow a real flower smells more delicate, watery and in some way a little bit more effervescent as it were than what I’ve smelled in any fragrance. Is there any synthetic that could possibly recreate a watery effervescent vibe to make the florals feel a bit more realistic to my nose?
There's an all natural house in France... they have a very realistic floral bouquet built up mainly of different roses. It smells incredibly true to life to me, they're called Sharini, the fragrance is named Rose Blanche.
That was like a watery light floral bouquet... If you can pick up a sample I'd recommend it.
Hello Peter, thanks so much for this. I will definitely take up your recommendation and try to get a sample of Rose Blanche!
I forgot to add, maybe a video on the different woods, or the base notes like amber, Benzoin. Or the different patchoulis there are many. What is the rules on selling perfumes privately? Still IFRA regulations?
Selling perfume privately to family and friends, there's no restrictions at all... you can do what you like :)
Interesting video!! I was unaware of all the restrictions. I also thought hmm I really enjoy vetiver geranium by creed and wondered if you cared for that one since it has geranium in it.
I didn't like it personally!
Next level detail as always! How about something on a wear-at-home fragrance? Something probably subtle but that you'd love to smell on yourself all the time if you could. I saw you mention something similar a couple of years ago with the now-discontinued Kiehls Vanilla & Cedarwood. For you has anything topped that since or are any other offerings worthy of consideration?
PS - i know you love H.O.M. Coco Blanc (have to try that) though i feel that may be a bit pricey for an everyday
I wouldn't want to smell the same every day, I have to be in the mood for certain things..
You're looking specifically for a vanilla ? There's a couple of others I enjoy.. By Kilian - Amber Oud is a very nice warm boozy vanilla.. Ivory Route by Xerjoff is lovely, as is Lira by the same brand.. Both are spiced Vanillas.... Lira has more fruit and citrus in the top. Annick Goutal have a great vanilla I like called Ambre Sauvage
Not vanilla specifically but it does appeal more and more to be honest, even if its not a note i'd wear out too often. I guess what appeals from your verbal description is when its balanced with things like leather (which i like), tobacco (never really smelled) or cedarwood and the like. Previously I've always gravitated towards woody notes or vetivers and fresher (i guess safer) fragrances and well away from anything sweet but i'm having my mind slowly changed! Those other two are great suggestions i'll check them out - thanks a mill
Super interesting video. What are the reasons for all these restrictions? Is it purely because of the rarity and protection of the raw materials? I expect there is more to it.. 🤔
Allergens... certain % of people are allergic to certain parts that make up the scent of the flower..
Enjoyed your video very much would like videos on wood, animalic and balsamic notes
I did a video on Woods already you can search for it "Woods in Perfumery / Fragranceview "
I don’t typically care for heavy doses of any floral except rose. On occasion I like big doses of some others. I wonder if it’s Egyptian Jasmine that is used in Al-Khatt? I get tobacco in the drydown, but it’s not in the notes.
Not sure, I hated Al-Khatt smelled so bad to me.... so, so, so very bad. lol
FragranceView I know you did...I remember your statements on it quite well...”like diarrhea after eating too much candy”...something along those lines lol. That doesn’t bother me, I still love it! After the opening the skanky oud fades into the background (it never disappears, like some ppl claim though) then I get a fruity jasmine, which starts to smell honeyed in the drydown, along with tobacco...however the only fruit listed is bergamot, and there’s no honey or tobacco...but that’s what I get...with the skanky oud in the background.
just because it's not listed doesn't mean it's not there though, they never include everything on the break downs... some of it could be natural facets of the Oud though, Oud is hugely complex and has a lot of natural nuances, so the tobacco vibe could be from that
HI Peter I was wondering if you had a suggestion for helping me find a olive leaves oil or something closest to this to help finish my scent I'm creating I would like to complete my fragrance with refreshing greens !
As far as I am aware, there's no kind of natural essential oil for that.. There are synthetics that mimic green leaves, and accords that can be created too.
@@FragranceView Any suggestions for green leaves brand wise ?
these are the videos that I most enjoy. Which oils do you recommend to start training your nose from zero?... there are so many notes and so many different oils from each note that it becomes difficult to make a choice
difficult question.... because it depends what you want to train your nose to.. most perfumes in the shops won't use any of these as naturals
You can do this in your new videos. And share taking products to market, as you said.
I can get in to that if people need
I like ylang ylang but unfortunately I don’t have a favorite fragrance with this as dominant note. Hopefully you can create something that’s much more magical than what’s available in the market.
Completely enjoyed inside perfume talk video. Thanks!
It's not used in perfume really because of how heavily restricted it is...
Hi, Peter. Sorry if my Q sounds silly but how to be sure that the ingridience we want to use will be not toxic together? Also, there are many videos how to do a parfume at home but they do not contain all these elements. So, are they parfumes or just alcohol spray with essential oils?
there's no reaction between common perfumer materials that would create something toxic.. don't worry. If it's a combination of oil and alcohol and it smells, it's a perfume, just some and more simple than others
@@FragranceView thank you! I've become a fan of your channel. Keep going☺️
Have you done the video talking about iris and Morris butter??
Orris **
In fact, geranium IS a very good insect repellent. ;-)
Have you ever had the chance to smell Taif Rose? It's suppose to be of the highest quality compared to the others, but it's extremely expensive and hard to come by.
I haven't no, the most fancy I have is Persian Rose Otto
Dear Peter, Happy New Year !
I am an herbalist & beginner incense & perfume formulator. Most of my medicinal tinctures are from plants I grow in my garden or forage locally. I am most interested in making tinctures from raw materials to then mix into perfumes. Do you do this yourself ? or can you point me in the right direction ? I’m watching all your videos with genuine enjoyment. Thank you for sharing your gift with us ~ Rachel
Can't do it legally in the UK in commercial perfume without having safety paper work for it.. Tincture process is limited to what will actually tincture well, not everything tinctures. The main things people tincture are Ambergris and Vanilla beans. Things like Rose, Lavender things you can grow in the garden.. will not produce a particularly strong tincture, it's just easier to purchase an absolute or essential oil which will smell better, and last longer. You won't really be able to make a good perfume, or one that lasts more than 10 minutes on skin with using that kind of self made tincturing.. Unless you plan on weaving it with other materials, but still the strength of the tinctures would be very light in comparison..
@@FragranceView I appreciate your honestly. It’s confusing because there’s all these romantic sounding articles popping up & natural perfumers that hint around at making plant tinctures for perfumes...but don’t talk much at all about how they might actually work in a perfume..I. e strength of scent or how long a scent might last..so it seems very misleading. Do you have any thoughts to share on enfleurage or making an absolute from a tincture? Could these techniques produce an outcome worth the painstaking process ?
It sounds like I’ll have to just experiment as well as invest in the oils. I have a liquid amber tree I want to try to tap and know where I can get loads of oak moss ..but am scratching my head at how to make a solvent extraction. Hope you’re taking care & Thanks so much for your 2 scents
Enfleurage is something you'd need to learn from a professional to do it well.. You can't make an absolute from a tincture, it's two completely different ways. Absolute comes from strong solvent extraction which creates a thick waxy substance they call a concrete, then they separate the oil from the concrete in a vacuum.. you wouldn't be able to do that at home. Tincturing is just a material floating in alcohol, and then using the alcohol, two different methods. Essential oils are from steam distillation where the hot water streams up through the plant material, and then condenses through a cooling tube, and what comes out is water, and essential oil. The amount of flowers you would need to create just a small amount of oil wouldn't be worth while for a hobbiest at home either even if you could..
I don't mean to put you off, it's just realistic, you can play around with tinctures and see what works for you..
@@FragranceView I made my first enfleurage attempt last summer and now know I need a proper set up with the appropriate enfleurage trays. I actually got a pretty good scent from my sunflowers before the whole thing grew mold. I’ll try again. I’m not put off by your realism. I think I have an idea of how much tenacity and hard work it takes to grow & forage your own materials because I’ve been making herbal medicine for a few years now. I know making good natural perfume will take time and patience. Trial & error. I have a copper still that I’ve been using to make my own hydrosol as well as essential oils. For me it’s very worth while to be involved in making scent from actual plant matter..it’s how I learn and connect deeply with nature & Spirit. The plants are why I began this journey a few years back. I’ve ordered a fair amount of essential oils from Eden botanicals to start with Oud being the very first one to spark incredible fascination and anticipation. Thanks for the conversation
Hi where did you source the magnolia abs?
Hiya, where can we find this list of restrictions?... so far I’ve only seen restrictions included in labels for preservatives etc...I wasn’t aware of the oak moss and fortunately haven’t added it to any formulas- but was about to😱
IFRA website
i loved this review! thank you!
if i go over the restrictions on a personal perfume that i make for myself, could i get sick? possibly make others around me sick?
You should be fine, don't worry...
Not a fan of tea fragrance and interesting that you mentioned that mimosa smells like tea and I’m not fond of mimosa in some cases. Interesting review. Why are some elements restricted? What is the danger?
A lot of flowers have allergens in them, that can give people a rash on their skin, so the use is restricted so it's less likely to happen
That makes sense. I was thinking something more drastic. Thanks!
Yeah great video, very informative!
thanks
The Champaka in Walimah is what real Champaka smells like. Steam distilling i guess is better than CO2 extraction here.
probably!
Thanks for the vid. Peter. I’m wondering if the smell of row materials represents the exact smell of real thing. For example: does the geranium oil smell the same as the geranium flower and leaves??!
I don't believe it does in all cases, difficult question as I've never stuffed geraniums in my face to check though!!
For Gardenia and Magnolia are those accords or extractions? I know there’s an enfleurage of Gardenia available.
It was listed as a Solvent Extraction, bought from Hermitage Oils in Europe
hermitageoils.com/product/gardenia-absolute/
The Magnolia is a bit more complicated... but you can read here
hermitageoils.com/product/magnolia-heart/
Why are the restrictions so harsh on these ingredients? Is it to protect the species (floral, woods etc) or is it a control of a supply/demand situation? Very informative video. PS: don’t stop reviewing if you create you’re own line. People watch your videos because they’re more than just typical reviews. You take a more personal approach and speak to what interest you and people connect with that.You’re channel is informative and teaches others about fragrances. Don’t stop what you’re passionate about, especially if you’re good at it. Good job so far buddy.
It's a complex issue... they would like you to believe it's for safety, some are allergens and may cause rashes in a certain small percentage of people. There could be darker reasons for it, like the big companies that control the perfume industry patenting and creating the replacement versions, then influencing restrictions on the real, forcing everyone to buy their material instead of the real. At the same time as pushing the price of the real oil up to a point, where a lot of people will find it not cost effective.
Thanks man
Wait! Is mimosa just acacia? I'm from Australia and we just call it acacia. A plant in full bloom is amazing on a spring day. Lovely scent. You should try get some brown boronia oil. Its awesome. Daphne should be used more so in perfumes i believe.
Did you just take your how to make perfumes made simple private ?
I was going to watch it when I has sufficient time.
I got to the first to books you mentioned , but stopped.
I also didn't write them down.
What were they again ?
Yeah, re-making the video next week... gonna adjust a few things, and re make it better..
Main books I referenced for beginners at home were Mandy Aftel - Fragrant the secret life of scent.
Roja Dove The Essence of Perfume and Jean Claude Ellena The Diary of a Nose
Got it Peter. Thanks
Super! Question: What makes a synthetic synthetic? When you talk about a replacement for rose, does it mean it's totally fabricated, or is it a natural rose product that has had the offending bits removed, or is it part natural and part synthetic?
a true synthetic is put together by a person, created in a lab, that can't be found in nature... like an ozone note or something like that.. There's a grey line with certain things because you can also create in a lab by a person with molecules that by themselves are extracted from natural essential oils, like eugenol...
and piece together a "rose replacement " which technically contains "natural" pieces of information placed together by a chemist. Yet was not distilled from a flower... so it's not synthetic in the sense of it's not new artificial elements created to make something new that doesn't exist in nature. It's real chemicals from real different essential oils.. to create something already in nature. Just building it up like lego instead of actually getting the full effect straight from a flower. That way they can leave out many of the allergic dangerous elements of the full rose.
Frankensmell... Is there a name for this class of smells? Also, when putting together something like a "rose replacement", you're saying that the components would have nothing to do with a natural rose itself? Where do the components come from (essential oils from other flowers, or even common things such as grains, or other plants)? Is it possible to completely recreate a natural smell with sourced components, and if so, do they smell exactly the same, or does the process of breaking up and putting bits back together affect the end result?
No the rose replacement does contain natural chemicals found in rose... it still uses the same materials rose does, but they add in other stuff as well, and take away dangerous elements.
To me the rose replacement does not smell like a rose absolute, it's sweeter, lighter, more rosy..
You can tell it doesn't smell "real" in my opinion... even though it's made up of real elements..
Many thanks 😊 my question is can you store floral absolutes and oils in room temperature (cool, dark, dry place) and for how long?
Btw if you want to make perfume for yourself only you can go crazy with %; right?
yes it's fine, the last for years so don't worry too much.. you can do whatever you like if it's for you personally, just be careful of giving yourself a rash
@@FragranceView sure, many thanks indeed 🤗
@@FragranceView are you aware that hermitage oils don’t ship to the UK anymore? Only Vat registered businesses 🧐
My favorite videos that you do❤❤❤
Very interesting watch. I see how different each persons nose is. Loved the video.
thanks
Very Interesting, what exactly are synthetics? Correct me but, what chemicals are used to make a synthetic rose for example? And are these chemicals harmful? This is all new to me and I want to learn. It's like learning about wines as they too have their "bouquet". Your channel is educating me and not look dumb when buying perfume but also keep and understand a conversation if the occasion occurs. Thank you for what you do :)
They're not harmful no, they're typically a lot safer than a natural, because they either have no or very little allergens. Synthetics are basically compounds made by chemists in a lab artificially constructed to smell a particular way,
Very novice question here; What is the reasoning specifically for the restrictions on Eugenol, and Oakmoss? What type of toxicity is the risk, or is it allergen reactions that the restrictions are so heavy for these? Quite curious.
hicap06 I think its allergens.
it's much broader, the restrictions cover many materials, but it's basically allergens. I small few percentage of the population may get a rash from certain things. Also some are just considered "dangerous" in general...
Have you tried the emerald green geranium absolute from Hermitage? I'm not sure if you are sniffing the essential oil here or the abs.
Never smelled that version! I was smelling an essential oil in that case
You might like the one I mentioned better; it reminds me of a bastard child of oakmoss and rose! If you get a chance, try and sample some Massoia Bark EO- think it's highly restricted, but it smells so bloody unique!
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll add to basket next time I do an order! :)
Great video, very interesting. Your note on the oakmoss has me intrigued - do you know what makes it a hazard to humans?
atranol and chloroatranol
It was deemed the cause of the largest amount of allergen complaints
What?? I love geranium! About those restriction...id understand it's more hard on natural essential oils then sintetic ones??
yes the restrictions are tougher for natural essential oils and absolutes, than they are for synthetics. Synthetics are designed in a lab to avoid the allergens essentially.
@@FragranceView idk how you can work like that as a small business, what are you suppose to do take it to lab testing?
Brilliant video, thank you so much for the time and effort! I've started making my own 100% natural perfumes and I'm loving it and getting good results. I'm feeling quite downcast about the restrictions though as I love using some of the restricted materials as strong elements in a perfume - tuberose and rose to mention a couple. It would be great if you could make videos focussing on cracking this issue without the use of synthetics. I take heart in the fact that there are a small number of European perfumers who seem to manage it with really great results (Hiram Green and Marina Barcenilla for instance - goodness knows how they do it!)- and they surely must be following the guidelines as they sell commercially and are stocked in London stores etc. Any info you have on this subject would be very much appreciated. Thanks :o)
Marina makes use of some Natural Isolates, all though things like Rose Absolute you can use up to around 5 to 6% in a finished perfume if it's diluted to 20% - obviously more if it's only 10%, she doesn't have any over dose of rose in her creations.. It's difficult working within the restrictions for naturals, no doubt.
It's a balance of using what you can, and experimenting with what % to mix the finished product to, to try and get the most out of a particular material. You might need to make a rose perfume at only 12% concentration to be able to pack in as much of it as you need in the concentrate without going over the limit of the final product
Thanks for your response - very helpful. Do you work with isolates and do they still have any of the restricted elements in them? Would you make a video about them? It's the next thing I'm going to investigate. Marina is based very close to where I live but her advanced workshop is out of my budget on top of buying materials.
I wouldn't want to dilute any more than 20% with most of my perfumes - if you have any more tips on how to get natural perfume to smell stronger and last a little longer that would be ace (I know a lot of it has to do with experimenting/trial and error) as it's so difficult to find information on this.
Can you point me in the right direction for info on: IFRA restrictions on naturals and on 'doing the maths' (not my strong point :-) Please.
Complicated to explain... I own a few Isolates, but you do have to check the Data Safety Sheets to make sure it's not containing anything restricted. - I found when it comes to naturals, for personal experience, they tend to start lasting longer and being stronger, the more material you use.
So if you're blending a perfume with only 10 to 15 notes, it's most likely only going to last a couple of hours. Where as if you blend with 20 to 50 notes, you'll find it lasts much longer in general.
Obviously cherry picking certain longer lasting notes obviously helps, and making use of a few natural fixatives... you go to the IFRA website, and click " Standards " tab, then type in the name of the material you want to check in the search bar, if nothing comes up, it's not restricted. Though if you type in something like just " Rose " it won't help, you need to be searching for the individual components that make up rose... Because Rose by it's self is not a restricted material, only it's components. Where as Jasmine as a material is restricted, so you search Jasmine it will tell you 0.7% for Absolute and 4% for Sambac. So the material is restricted as well as the individual elements within it. You can cross check it with The Good Scents Company, by using their search function on materials, and going down to the safety in use tab, which will give you a guideline on % to be used in concentration. It's not so easy to explain really
Thanks so much - It all feels a bit overwhelming, but at the end of the day there probably aren't that many oils I want to use regularly that are heavily restricted so the research and maths wont be too much of a drag - hopefully - and once I know, I'll be able to experiment within the boundaries and find out if it's still something I want to do. I really appreciate your advice here while I have my melt down about this. Loving your videos - so much excellent info - I'm off to buy some scout scales now :-)
I know the feeling.. I had the same headache!
Thank you for this vid, really interesting:) I’m wondering if its possible to have jasmine abs as well as jasmine sambac in the same perfume to sell?
yes of course, just make sure the combination is under the limit for restrictions
Hi Peter
What is the best quality and most expensive rose oil used in perfumery
Thanks
I am not sure what's considered the "best" actually, I am sure there's a couple of rare ones that are difficult to attain... It's probably a specific variety of rose, and probably an Otto
FragranceView ok thanks is it Otto the rearrest one?
that's just the type of oil.. like you get Rose Absolute, and Rose Otto.. the Otto is more concentrated,
but it's not a specific variety of Rose... I am not sure which the most expensive Rose type is
FragranceView thanks Peter
Can u do an overview of Persian rose attar vs absolute
the restrictions, is it because it can create an allergic reaction? If not, then why do they need to put restriction?
Because of allergens yes, maybe a couple of people in a thousand may get a little itchy or red skin.. so they restrict things so it's less common
Where do you buy your essential oils from? if you'd be comfortable sharing
Hermitage Oils, Eden Botanicals
@@FragranceView thank you very much man, appreciate the time you take to reply
Love this video so much!
thanks
Little question here....If the real rose oil was so restricted in perfume ...why kazimi can put like 7 diffrent rose in it???🤔🤔🤔🤔and....Please do the iris oil video!!highly intrested!!
Because Kazimi is made in the USA - No IFRA - No Restrictions
FragranceView 😳😳😳 so only france fragrance was restricted ?
All of Europe not just France
What do you mix Ylang Ylang with? Jasmine?
beautiful combo
Really thats not the way id describe or how geranium smells but i grew up with it my grandma grows so many of them kinda reminds me of the way her house smells. So has a bit of a uforic element for me
Very valuble information
depending how the oil is sourced will have a slightly different odour profile, and the profile of the oil will not be the same as the fresh flower from a garden smells
FragranceView that makes alot of sence. So the geranium that i have might not be quite the same as yours. Still oddly smells like my grandmas house concentrated. She has too many geraniums to count. The floral oils smell very much like the flower they are from to me just concentrated. Im seeing what you mean though with the sharp citris type note. I never even noticed the different parts of it. pulled mine out to smell it to see what you ment.
Where do you get your fragrance oils?
Hermitage Oils / Pell Wall / Perfumers Apprentice / Eden Botanicals
Oakmoss, Woods, Amber, Fruits, Spices, Green notes
ok sure
Love these kinds of videos :)
thanks
is your gardenia steam distilled or?.....Magnolia (real) to me has a bright slightly acrid side to me w/a deep almost indolic backround. Mimosa seems like cool hay to me....or even a bit of camomile..the dryness of it. Real tuberose to me has a honey like backround..like a dying white flower to some extent a scent more thick than gardenia. That rose explaination was interesting...even if you could use he absolute..it wont "come up" enough cause of its restricion in the mix...........all this is so cool...
Purchased by Gardenia through Hermiage and their sites reads " Produced by solvent extracting the fresh flowers " -
ok...Im not sure of the highest degree of that processing in terms of that gardenia itself does not produce any essential oils in nature. Ill check it out....i have smelled (many yrs ago) a true gardenia oil..its costly to produce as a true gardenia. Most gardenia is "synthetic"..even in high end perfuming for the most part.
I want to buy fine perfumes (perfumes compounds), where it's available
do you mean finished perfume formula concentrates? you would have to pay a perfumer...
yes bro, I want to dialute my self,as my wish
ok, then I have no idea I am sorry... I don't know anyone offering that
Hey Peter, EU Comission banned two components of oakmoss completely: atranol and chloroatranol, therefore oakmoss is completely prohibited if you follow EU cosmetic rules. Also Lyral is prohibited also by the same regulations, so you should check your bases. For example my Rose Givco 217 base contains some Lyral.
hot damn, thanks! I'll double check those
atranol says it's restricted to 0.1% and chloroatranol also 0.1% through the IFRA site, but not completely prohibited, is there a new amendment that's missing? I presumed the IFRA library was correct... maybe it's not by the looks of it
The IFRA is not the only organization that makes restrictions on fragrances. EU regulations are more important and they are sometimes different from IFRA
eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?qid=1502329423429&uri=CELEX:32017R1410
Thanks for the link, they don't make it easy do they!
thanks very informative video!
Thanks
Can someone in EU create a fragrance only for the US market?
The laws in America are still complicated, and vary from state to state... it would be a mission to do that from here, and you have the probably of shipping dangerous goods to the states.
Nice informative vid!
Cheers!
They put restrictions on the florals that have healing properties
Because they contain skin allergens
Yes, but for the vast majority that is not allergic these EOs are beneficial as aromatherapy.Putting on a perfume with a dominant natural rose note creates a comforting mood to the person wearing it and those around them
Yeah but that’s not scientific, the restrictions are just on scientific analyses and product testing
I agree, the restrictions are based on solid and proven research while Aromatherapy is more like an alternative way of healing
But i think that no one can deny the fact that natural scents are more pleasing and uplifting than artificial ones
I agree, but it is the way it is...
thank you! i didn't understand what exactly you are sniffing, those weren't essential oils, but some special perfume materials? i am allergic to 95% contemporary perfumes that contain "musk" notes (i guess, those are synthetics that gives sillage), but no problems with real 100% oils that i use in aromatheraphy, containing all those restricted eugeniols 😊 take care!!
oh sorry, they were Absolutes.... I didn't think to say - strange about the musk, they claim synthetics are much safer than naturals.. but you're the opposite lol
Is it me or are the videos on making perfume deleted?
Deleted, going to make new ones!
@@FragranceView awesome! Looking forward to it 😎