"pro tip" , a 2moa rifle will kill just as many deer out to 300 yards and even more. Don't waste so much time and ammo trying to achieve sub moa "groups". If you are shooting for the fun of precision Shooting it should be understood that of course precision such as sub moa is of great interest. However, if your rifle and/or your shooting ability only achieve accuracy in the neighborhood of 2 or 3 moa, it will kill all manner of game out to real hunting distance.
Take it from an old machinist, measure outside to inside of two like sized holes and you have center to center without guessing the center. much more accurate.
Very well explained, but there was no mention of knowing where the cold shot on your rifle goes , it is often slightly different than from a hot barrel. Ultimately for hunters and snipers this is your most important shot.
Not to mention your oil shot to burn out your oil residue if you've cleaned out your gun recently. That one'll be way off unless your scope is measured in minute of man increments.
Great video. To me, the only step missing was how you initially got on target. You stated that you had mounted that scope on other rifles, but I would like to see how you boresighted that particular setup. Do you use a different boresighting method when using other than 0 MOA bases?
....A NICE GROUP IN THE BULLS EYE IS ENOUGH... RESHOOTING THE SAME HOLE OVER AND OVER IS NOT NEEDED. ....EVERY SHOT YOU TAKE IS DIFFERENT. .....PICK UP YOUR GEAR AND GO HOME .....ENJOY THE SPORT!
Amazing how you can watch so many at a range have so much trouble "sighting ???" in a scope. One repeated issue is Improperly mounted baases and rings. Very few even know what " lapping" the rings mean or accomplish. Mounting bases correctly is imperative and it's not a gunsmiths secret. And use real " grid" targets not a damn dot on a paper plate. You will have actual dimension lines to use to adjust the scope.
Each to their own...I never lap rings and shoot at small dots when zeroing...I do however take care when mounting bases and rings and torque everything down..
Can anyone offer advice about how to determine the standard deviation if my chronograph only provides the round speeds. Obviously I can determine the extreme spread off of that info. The SD is my primary inquiry. Thank you to whom ever may be able to help.
Sir good afternoon I am police officer in the Philippines assign as SWAT,I have a lot of question on how to zero my rifle ang sniper scope would it be ok for u to have ur email or fb account for me to communicate u better and ask some advice on a particular weapon I have,I am hoping for ur response to this mesegs for u sir,it’s a big help on my part as a law enforcer in our place,thank u so much
If that is a fast way to sight a rifle. You got to be Army slug. Who else has the amount of bullets your shooting plus math major and equipment to test speed. Never mind glad you was not I. Nam , someone would take a crack at you
Well guys this about view to zero A weapon. See that small picture with the black rings there a throwing hatchet or axe in the wall She found her distance , See guy a year this May I learn my wife was far better than I am. She what work best for her . Her shooting skills. Are real good. See not all ammunition shoot the same. she can back that up. Change ammunition may have to set it back in. What she knows works best for her. Know your weapon line of sight. Not every thing is a Hundred yards. If someone Is long rang shooter. Say 800 .or 900 Hundred hards Like my wife has to sight it in To hit her target. Now your weapon learn what works best. There are lot of Women., I trust my wife How she set up. After all guys she pick out her on weapon paid for it Got good deal on 1000 rounds Its not her first Cast she gone through. Doing her own reloading. . Well if it's set in right. Happy shooting if not there still burning Lead.
I put up a blank piece of paper fire a bullet, then I will fire another shot at that bullet hole in the paper and then wherever the bullet punches another hole I know how much to adjust scopes for zeroing
Clearly neither of you shoot PRS or any other kind of rifle competition 😂😂 when the barrel heats up after a string of shots it starts to throw off your accuracy and in a game where accuracy is king you don’t want that barrel getting hot lol
Parallax fine tune requires verification with head movement to ensure the ret and target image are locked in plane. Depending on the optical quality and astigmatism the focus of the target may not be the perfect locked zero parallax. Just a thought. Currently using one Remmy and two Anschutz stocked MDT. Love the kit. Any chance of a Mod 7rem LSS XL gen 2? By far the best all round chassis you make.
Yes, you will need to make adjustments to the paralax to ensure that both the target and reticle are in focus. There are no plans at this time for a Model 7 LSS-XL but you can always use our customer request form and if there is enough demand that, we will consider it!
I learned a bunch - thanks for taking the time to show the process. I'm only shooting 22LR and just getting into NRL22 - and can't figure out whether to zero my rifle at 50 yds. or 100 yds. I noticed that a lot of the folks are zeroing at 50 yds just before the match rather than 100 - which is the only range offered just prior to the match. But I have zeroed my rifle at 100 yds before coming, but on a different range. What would be your recommendation for the distance to zero - and if I zeroed the rifle the day before at a different range, should I re-zero at 50 yds - or go with what I've got? Appreciate any wisdom you have because I am literally new to all of this. Also, do you make a chassis for a 22?
It's all personal preference. 50 yards is what most people here zero at since it allows you to deal with any close-in targets fairly easily. Zeroing at 100 means anything under that distance and you will need to hold under. Yes, we offer many different rimfire inlets. mdttac.com/lss-rimfire-chassis-system/
100yds zero for rimfire is equivalent to 300m zero with centerfire rifle. Which is usually only used if your (non-standard, huge cant) mounting options disallow 100m zero. There is just too much wind and other factors that make it not optimal. 50m/50yds zero works very well. Zeroing at 25 is a good choice also, choose which ever range you can verify more often.
Zeroing is easy, within reason no matter the ammo...for me anyway...I would like to make hits @1000yrd so far 300-400 are simple it's finding 1000yrd range I don't have to join for an obscene amount.
Why not pop the bolt out and center the target with the bore of the rifle then bring the center of the scope on the target,the original bore sighting,and should only take 2 rounds to center 😴 🙄 🤔
Just to throw it out there Es is important but not as important as we think, by using a method called positive compensation were your slowest rounds are hitting a bit higher then your fastest, this is how you see guys shooting tiny groups at crazy distances with a Es of 20 or more , good video not knocking it just putting out some food for thought have a great day
Yes, positive compensation is interesting and seems to fall into a similar realm of harmonics and where the barrel is positioned in its whip as it exits as well. Consistency and repeatability are key.
Great videos! Thank you! I have a question; in movies/TV shows they show a sniper un-casing the rifle and then reassembling it! I just snaps together, to me this seems impossible to maintain the integrity of the presicion rifle? Lastly he takes the scope out of the case and snaps it in place - how can he be sure that it is still zoomed? Your comment about re-zeroing after each outing makes sense but the depiction in the show defies this. Yet he takes a long range shot and places the bullet in the forehead between the eyes. I would think given the realities of such a shot it would have to be a body shot - i.e. centre mass! This depiction in the shows is so misleading it really bothers me. Am I missing something that I am not aware of? Thanks, Mike
Hello Mike! Movies and real life are rarely the same. There are rifles out there that are "take downs" which are designed to be taken apart and reassembled and scope mounts with "QD" bases to be able to transport without banging/hitting the scope. When you are confident in your gear and confirm your zero, you know that it's not the rifle if you don't make that shot. Confidence is a key component when shooting accurately.
Snipers stalk high value targets over several days cannot re-zero as environmental change. That is the purpose of laser distance measurement and wind measurement along with Dope
talk about making things much easier to understand. I love watching this. I have spent a lot of time zeroing in a rifle and much more ammo than three rounds on target. i am going to try this next time im out at the range.
Nice video I have a question I have a 6 to 24 Vortex viper second focal plane scope when I sight in zero at 100 yards should I have it on the lowest setting six power or should I have it on the high-power 24 confusing on how I should do it .I won the scope so I am trying to figure it out from an expert like you I am putting it on a 6.5 Creedmoor Ruger American thank you For hunting deer
It's best to sight in at a power that you can see a fine point to have a consistent point of aim. Usually a higher magnification to be more precise on that point of aim.
Once you have the rifle sighted in at your choice of magnification then crank the zoom in the other direction and fire a group. Point of impact should be the same for all magnifications. If not, then the scope is at fault.
Excellent explanation of how to use the numbers on the chronograph to find your best ammunition. By the way, I’m new to chronographs and I SHOT my first cronagraph first day on the range. It was placed about 12 feet in front of the muzzle. I shot through it to get your numbers. Unfortunately, I forgot about it switch targets and shot one of the metal rods. Luckily, I found the same metal rod at Ace Hardware cut down to size to fit. Now I have some extras. Using your methods, I have discovered the best ammunition for my 308 and 223. I will look for more of your videos . Kent/Montana, USA
I'm watching this because my AR-15 - Radical Firearms - is shooting like a 6-8 inch groups at 100 yards... Yep you read that right. The spread of my 5 shot groups is 6-8 inches in a prone position, steadied with a shot bag and butt stock bag. Both me and my brother shot these groups and he was an infantry medic in the 82nd airborne. I'm using an acushot made in china scope that has good reviews and Winchester M193. Any suggestions on what could be the problem? I'll first try different ammo and then a different scope.
@@claysonbonds2422 UTG brand picatinny rings... They came with the scope. I torqued the scope rings to like 20 inch pounds. The base mount screws are torqued down as tight as I can get them. The scope rings does not move on the rail nor the scope move in the rings... I made marks with a pencil so any movement would be obvious.
@@TheFlyingZulu I think it may be the scope and/or mount, when I was first getting into guns I just got a cheap mount and it looked and felt solid, but my groups were just about the size of yours, I just switched to a better mount and my groups shrunk to 2inches which is pretty standard for an ar with surplus ammo.
There could be a LOT going on with your rifle. It could be: barrel, harmonics, shooting technique, scope, mounts, ammo, etc. But for sure invest in a better scope and rings. At least consider Vortex for both. Also, what is the quality of your barrel and ammo, something to consider as Winchester is not meant for accuracy. Another thing, if your barrel is free floated, is ANYTHING touching the barrel or gas block like a screw? That will mess up your accuracy. 1-2 MOA should be fine for a typical AR. However, keep in mind bolt action rifles are more accurate than ARs. Hope this helps. But remember to have a designated purpose for your rifle.
5 shots are statistically better than 3 but it will also never get smaller than snot no. 2 so, if shots 1 and two are way off change ammo or brake position loosten off re built and settle in for a second attemp.
Your first shot was a cold barrel shot. You should put at least 3 down range first and get reading off your last 2. You also want a floating barrel. Your muzzle will also effect the barrel dynamics. Shoot east to west/ west to east to avoid coriolis effect. Depending on muzzle velocity your projectile will drop as if you just held it and let it go and it is an exponential accelleration. A projectile in flight will fall the same speed. A higher muzzle velocity will improve accuracy over distance.
Assuming you are @ 100 yds with 5 shots (6:50) with 1/8 click MOA what zoom did you set at? Now at 1 mile, what zoom do you set at and how far below dead center? Then how many clicks to bring up to center? For above shooting there in no wind, a perfect day.
Clicks to center? Depends on MV averaged over preferably 10 rounds at 100 yds., for that load. Ballistic calculator will provide you with moa and mrads as long as your inputs are correct.
@@carfvallrightsreservedwith6649 How many clicks referring to turning the Elevation Adjustment's Knob (click). Giving those information, how much will be bullet drops respect to dead center target @ 1 mile? And how many clicks do I need to turn the elevation to? Ballistic calculator was not used & not allowed.
@@MDTTAC So what are your answers with your products? 1. Brand, model & setting power @ 100 yards? 2. Now @ 1 mile, what zoom power? 3. Without any scope adjustment where did the bullet hit or landed from target? 4. Provides in inches from dead center, then how many elevation needs to turn?
@@angelisone It was a Leupold MK 5, 5 - 25; he was shooting at max power (25). In the video, he didn't go a mile, but that is a personal preference. In the video, the initial rounds went .9 mils low and around .8 mils left from the point of aim. That equates to about 3" low from the point of aim; the adjustment would be the reverse. You would need to come up .9 mils and go .8 mils right to finish siting in. But to clarify as well, we produce chassis systems and accessories for bolt action rifles; we don't manufacture complete firearms.
He's making it much more difficult than it needs to be. There's a much easier way to zero without doing BS computations on elevation and windage adjustments.
{{{shakes head}}} you's with them new fangled cartridge guns got it easy. Try muzzleloading. Finding the best powder charge, to include granulation, brand, real vs synthetic powder, patch thickness, patch/bullet lube/grease (several formulations and brands) and so on for each projectile you use. A patched round ball will use a different powder charge than a conical. A greased bore diameter conical will use a different charge than a saboted pistol or rifle bullet. Oh, the most accurate target and hunting loads are not the same, even when using the same projectiles. On traditional side lock guns chances are no scope. A vernier tang sight and a globe front sight might be an option - if bases are available for your arm. Most adjustable sights are an adjustable leaf v sight like you'll find on a Winchester lever action. A lot of traditional muzzleloading rifles have fixed sights. You can adjust windage by moving the front and/or rear sight. To adjust elevation AFTER getting a tight group you file down the front sight blade to raise the group or install a taller sight, and file it as necessary, for the range you zeroed in at. For longer and shorter ranges, and lighter or heavier loads, you need to learn how much to hold over or under (fixed sights) and how to compensate for different wind speed and direction (unless you have a tang sight with adjustable windage. Not all of them do.) Another thing to consider is some jurisdictions prohibit scopes and electronic (red dot) sights on traditional muzzleloaders used in the muzzleloading seasons. (inlines are only allowed in the gun and any gun seasons; not the muzzleloader season.) BTW, a traditional side lock muzzleloading rifle is quite capable of sub-MOA accuracy. Are you? They are also capable of long range shots. During the US War of Independence, Congress wanted the Colonial troops to keep their shots under 400 yards when sniping the British officers. True story: One newly arrived British officer was mounted, his Sargents told him to dismount. The enemy were 700 yards away. To which that officer scoffed and said "They couldn't hit an elephant at that ra" He was killed by a headshot while speaking. During the Civil War, the Whitworth rifle equiped with vernier tang sight and globe front sight was "accurate on a man size target" out to 1200 to 1500 yards, depending on which authority is speaking. Question: When sighting in with a scope, after making sure you're on the paper, why not take a shot using a rest, then without moving the rifle, adjust the crosshair to intersect the hole? Your second shot should then be in the bullseye. "Two Shot Zero". It worked well from the 50's to at least 2020.
Looking to build a sporting or hunting rifle? Check out mdttac.com/
You guys are stepping up your game with all these TH-cam uploads!
Pro Tip: Always wear dark shooting glasses so no one can see you flinching.
That is wild, maybe some people just can't get past it no matter how long and how often they shoot?
Damn that’s funny!!
I wear shades so I can watch the ladies' booty shake when they shoot in the prone.
It's an issue for me. Granted I'm not always behind my rifle which would probably help. Any tips on the flinching?
@@TheOleOtterget a calibre you can shoot without flinching and work your way up.
nice shoot.
Very good.
"pro tip" , a 2moa rifle will kill just as many deer out to 300 yards and even more.
Don't waste so much time and ammo trying to achieve sub moa "groups".
If you are shooting for the fun of precision Shooting it should be understood that of course precision such as sub moa is of great interest. However, if your rifle and/or your shooting ability only achieve accuracy in the neighborhood of 2 or 3 moa, it will kill all manner of game out to real hunting distance.
Take a plain price of paper place your first shot anywhere then put the next shot thru the same hole it saves all the numbers
Best explanation on zeroing I have ever seen. Definitely gets a like and subscribe from me.
Take it from an old machinist, measure outside to inside of two like sized holes and you have center to center without guessing the center. much more accurate.
Very well explained, but there was no mention of knowing where the cold shot on your rifle goes , it is often slightly different than from a hot barrel. Ultimately for hunters and snipers this is your most important shot.
Not to mention your oil shot to burn out your oil residue if you've cleaned out your gun recently. That one'll be way off unless your scope is measured in minute of man increments.
@@verysmallcats1374 You leave oil in your barrel 🤔
Great video. To me, the only step missing was how you initially got on target. You stated that you had mounted that scope on other rifles, but I would like to see how you boresighted that particular setup. Do you use a different boresighting method when using other than 0 MOA bases?
Great video would have been nice if you mentioned the brands of ammo you used.
2nd one was probably Hornady Match 6.5 Creedmoor. It is rated at 2710 FPS but not sure what the first one was....possibly Federal?
Excellent video. Thanks
....A NICE GROUP IN THE BULLS EYE IS ENOUGH... RESHOOTING THE SAME HOLE OVER AND OVER IS NOT NEEDED.
....EVERY SHOT YOU TAKE IS DIFFERENT. .....PICK UP YOUR GEAR AND GO HOME .....ENJOY THE SPORT!
Amazing how you can watch so many at a range have so much trouble "sighting ???" in a scope. One repeated issue is Improperly mounted baases and rings. Very few even know what " lapping" the rings mean or accomplish. Mounting bases correctly is imperative and it's not a gunsmiths secret. And use real " grid" targets not a damn dot on a paper plate. You will have actual dimension lines to use to adjust the scope.
Each to their own...I never lap rings and shoot at small dots when zeroing...I do however take care when mounting bases and rings and torque everything down..
Never start at 100 yards with a new scope always start at 25 yards with a few shots
Love It! Good presentation, clear and easy! Well played!
Drinking game ... Take a shot everytime he say "go ahead " lol
Can anyone offer advice about how to determine the standard deviation if my chronograph only provides the round speeds. Obviously I can determine the extreme spread off of that info. The SD is my primary inquiry. Thank you to whom ever may be able to help.
Sir good afternoon I am police officer in the Philippines assign as SWAT,I have a lot of question on how to zero my rifle ang sniper scope would it be ok for u to have ur email or fb account for me to communicate u better and ask some advice on a particular weapon I have,I am hoping for ur response to this mesegs for u sir,it’s a big help on my part as a law enforcer in our place,thank u so much
If that is a fast way to sight a rifle. You got to be Army slug. Who else has the amount of bullets your shooting plus math major and equipment to test speed. Never mind glad you was not I. Nam , someone would take a crack at you
Well guys this about view to zero
A weapon.
See that small picture with the black rings there a throwing hatchet or axe in the wall She found her distance ,
See guy a year this May
I learn my wife was far better than I am. She what work best for her . Her shooting skills.
Are real good.
See not all ammunition shoot the same. she can back that up.
Change ammunition may have to set it back in.
What she knows works best for her. Know your weapon line of sight. Not every thing is a Hundred yards. If someone
Is long rang shooter.
Say 800 .or 900 Hundred hards
Like my wife has to sight it in
To hit her target.
Now your weapon learn what works best. There are lot of
Women., I trust my wife
How she set up.
After all guys she pick out her on weapon paid for it
Got good deal on 1000 rounds
Its not her first Cast she gone through. Doing her own reloading. .
Well if it's set in right. Happy shooting if not there still burning
Lead.
I put up a blank piece of paper fire a bullet, then I will fire another shot at that bullet hole in the paper and then wherever the bullet punches another hole I know how much to adjust scopes for zeroing
You don’t have to ‘go ahead’ before you do something. Count the number of times you say ‘go ahead’ and ask yourself; is this necessary?
If your barrel overheats after shooting more than five rounds than you have the wrong Barrel
If you have to shoot more than 5 rounds shoot better.
Clearly neither of you shoot PRS or any other kind of rifle competition 😂😂 when the barrel heats up after a string of shots it starts to throw off your accuracy and in a game where accuracy is king you don’t want that barrel getting hot lol
@MDTTAC can you please post the build/components for the rifle used in this video?
Lone peak action, HS precision Barrel. 6.5cm in a ACC Premier chassis with a Leupold Mark 5 scope
@@MDTTAC thank you!
If I scope in my Rimfire at 50 yards we’ll it still be accurate under 50 yards or less ?
Too much math. Numbers turn my brain into a kaleidoscopic whirl.
Parallax fine tune requires verification with head movement to ensure the ret and target image are locked in plane. Depending on the optical quality and astigmatism the focus of the target may not be the perfect locked zero parallax. Just a thought.
Currently using one Remmy and two Anschutz stocked MDT. Love the kit.
Any chance of a Mod 7rem LSS XL gen 2? By far the best all round chassis you make.
Yes, you will need to make adjustments to the paralax to ensure that both the target and reticle are in focus.
There are no plans at this time for a Model 7 LSS-XL but you can always use our customer request form and if there is enough demand that, we will consider it!
That may be okay for young eyes, but for my 70 years old eyes, it ain't going to work. You will find out in the future; it started for me at 46.
I learned a bunch - thanks for taking the time to show the process. I'm only shooting 22LR and just getting into NRL22 - and can't figure out whether to zero my rifle at 50 yds. or 100 yds. I noticed that a lot of the folks are zeroing at 50 yds just before the match rather than 100 - which is the only range offered just prior to the match. But I have zeroed my rifle at 100 yds before coming, but on a different range. What would be your recommendation for the distance to zero - and if I zeroed the rifle the day before at a different range, should I re-zero at 50 yds - or go with what I've got? Appreciate any wisdom you have because I am literally new to all of this. Also, do you make a chassis for a 22?
It's all personal preference. 50 yards is what most people here zero at since it allows you to deal with any close-in targets fairly easily. Zeroing at 100 means anything under that distance and you will need to hold under.
Yes, we offer many different rimfire inlets.
mdttac.com/lss-rimfire-chassis-system/
100yds zero for rimfire is equivalent to 300m zero with centerfire rifle. Which is usually only used if your (non-standard, huge cant) mounting options disallow 100m zero. There is just too much wind and other factors that make it not optimal.
50m/50yds zero works very well. Zeroing at 25 is a good choice also, choose which ever range you can verify more often.
Great work and presentation!
Who the he🏒🏒 would give this video and great effort to make it a thumbs down? Great job and thanks for sharing. Best regards!🍻😷👍
Zeroing is easy, within reason no matter the ammo...for me anyway...I would like to make hits @1000yrd so far 300-400 are simple it's finding 1000yrd range I don't have to join for an obscene amount.
Why not pop the bolt out and center the target with the bore of the rifle then bring the center of the scope on the target,the original bore sighting,and should only take 2 rounds to center 😴 🙄 🤔
Well done, great edit. Thanks.,.
What’s the factory ammo?
Are you horizontally parallel to the target or are you shooting upwards slightly?
Are you bench resting zeroing that rifle? wow, i never learnt it that way in the military.
Just to throw it out there Es is important but not as important as we think, by using a method called positive compensation were your slowest rounds are hitting a bit higher then your fastest, this is how you see guys shooting tiny groups at crazy distances with a Es of 20 or more , good video not knocking it just putting out some food for thought have a great day
Yes, positive compensation is interesting and seems to fall into a similar realm of harmonics and where the barrel is positioned in its whip as it exits as well. Consistency and repeatability are key.
I agree, I get bored and need something to feed my ocd lol and positive compensation is my next meal
Where's your bubble level?
Great videos! Thank you!
I have a question; in movies/TV shows they show a sniper un-casing the rifle and then reassembling it! I just snaps together, to me this seems impossible to maintain the integrity of the presicion rifle? Lastly he takes the scope out of the case and snaps it in place - how can he be sure that it is still zoomed? Your comment about re-zeroing after each outing makes sense but the depiction in the show defies this. Yet he takes a long range shot and places the bullet in the forehead between the eyes. I would think given the realities of such a shot it would have to be a body shot - i.e. centre mass!
This depiction in the shows is so misleading it really bothers me. Am I missing something that I am not aware of?
Thanks,
Mike
Hello Mike! Movies and real life are rarely the same. There are rifles out there that are "take downs" which are designed to be taken apart and reassembled and scope mounts with "QD" bases to be able to transport without banging/hitting the scope. When you are confident in your gear and confirm your zero, you know that it's not the rifle if you don't make that shot. Confidence is a key component when shooting accurately.
Snipers stalk high value targets over several days cannot re-zero as environmental change. That is the purpose of laser distance measurement and wind measurement along with Dope
You watch to much TV.
why not chrono when you fired all the loads with the first 5 rounds?
very interesting, in army we zero in on 100m our iron sights and our red dots.
To much talking
Great job learned something new
EXCELLENT THANK YOU
5oo big for a group must be a orçhestra learn how to shoot
Whats the distance of you and your target?
Jesus loves you
not a bad vid, but he says "go ahead" waaaay too much
Perfect my friend
I use outside to inside of farthest..usually
talk about making things much easier to understand. I love watching this. I have spent a lot of time zeroing in a rifle and much more ammo than three rounds on target. i am going to try this next time im out at the range.
Use rubber o rings assorted sizes. Quick and easy
Why zero a rifle at 100 yards when the scope is set up for meters/metric?
MRADs are a unit of measurement which is not tied to imperial or metric distances. You can use it for either.
My ruger American shoots just as accurately as that rifle
No it doesn't
Where did you get that cool leupold sticker? Would love one on my MK5.
That is a Leupold decal so you would have to contact them
Nice video I have a question I have a 6 to 24 Vortex viper second focal plane scope when I sight in zero at 100 yards should I have it on the lowest setting six power or should I have it on the high-power 24 confusing on how I should do it .I won the scope so I am trying to figure it out from an expert like you I am putting it on a 6.5 Creedmoor Ruger American thank you For hunting deer
It's best to sight in at a power that you can see a fine point to have a consistent point of aim. Usually a higher magnification to be more precise on that point of aim.
Once you have the rifle sighted in at your choice of magnification then crank the zoom in the other direction and fire a group. Point of impact should be the same for all magnifications. If not, then the scope is at fault.
What kind of chronograph was used for this video?
Magneto speed V3.
Hi what is the adapter kit your using on the v3 please
It looks like an MK Machining version.
Thank You Sir, very well explained!
Great video thanks
super :)
Top
Excellent explanation of how to use the numbers on the chronograph to find your best ammunition. By the way, I’m new to chronographs and I SHOT my first cronagraph first day on the range. It was placed about 12 feet in front of the muzzle. I shot through it to get your numbers. Unfortunately, I forgot about it switch targets and shot one of the metal rods. Luckily, I found the same metal rod at Ace Hardware cut down to size to fit. Now I have some extras. Using your methods, I have discovered the best ammunition for my 308 and 223. I will look for more of your videos . Kent/Montana, USA
Excellent
I'm watching this because my AR-15 - Radical Firearms - is shooting like a 6-8 inch groups at 100 yards... Yep you read that right. The spread of my 5 shot groups is 6-8 inches in a prone position, steadied with a shot bag and butt stock bag. Both me and my brother shot these groups and he was an infantry medic in the 82nd airborne. I'm using an acushot made in china scope that has good reviews and Winchester M193. Any suggestions on what could be the problem? I'll first try different ammo and then a different scope.
What mount do you have for the scope?
@@claysonbonds2422 UTG brand picatinny rings... They came with the scope. I torqued the scope rings to like 20 inch pounds. The base mount screws are torqued down as tight as I can get them. The scope rings does not move on the rail nor the scope move in the rings... I made marks with a pencil so any movement would be obvious.
@@TheFlyingZulu I think it may be the scope and/or mount, when I was first getting into guns I just got a cheap mount and it looked and felt solid, but my groups were just about the size of yours, I just switched to a better mount and my groups shrunk to 2inches which is pretty standard for an ar with surplus ammo.
@@claysonbonds2422 What brand or mounts did you switch to? I have a 30mm tube scope.
There could be a LOT going on with your rifle. It could be: barrel, harmonics, shooting technique, scope, mounts, ammo, etc. But for sure invest in a better scope and rings. At least consider Vortex for both. Also, what is the quality of your barrel and ammo, something to consider as Winchester is not meant for accuracy. Another thing, if your barrel is free floated, is ANYTHING touching the barrel or gas block like a screw? That will mess up your accuracy. 1-2 MOA should be fine for a typical AR. However, keep in mind bolt action rifles are more accurate than ARs. Hope this helps. But remember to have a designated purpose for your rifle.
Lol
Pure awesomeness!! Thanks man!!
Thanks, that made understanding zeroing really easy 🙏 🙏 🙏
Thank you for watching!
Awesome video! Great content and informative. What’s the length of your barrel?
5 shots are statistically better than 3 but it will also never get smaller than snot no. 2 so, if shots 1 and two are way off change ammo or brake position loosten off re built and settle in for a second attemp.
Chrono used?
magnetospeed v3
What was Load #1 ???
Blind ammo test. no names will be given, sorry.
Based on the groups and the 2690fps listed velocity, probably Hornady 147gr ELD-M
Your first shot was a cold barrel shot. You should put at least 3 down range first and get reading off your last 2. You also want a floating barrel.
Your muzzle will also effect the barrel dynamics.
Shoot east to west/ west to east to avoid coriolis effect. Depending on muzzle velocity your projectile will drop as if you just held it and let it go and it is an exponential accelleration. A projectile in flight will fall the same speed. A higher muzzle velocity will improve accuracy over distance.
You make this MUCH more complicated than it actually is! You can actually zero a weapon at 100 yards using only 2 shots!
Assuming you are @ 100 yds with 5 shots (6:50) with 1/8 click MOA what zoom did you set at?
Now at 1 mile, what zoom do you set at and how far below dead center?
Then how many clicks to bring up to center?
For above shooting there in no wind, a perfect day.
We run FFP optics in MRAD so we wouldn't be able to provide you a solid answer. Most shooters will run in the mid-range of the power.
Clicks to center? Depends on MV averaged over preferably 10 rounds at 100 yds., for that load. Ballistic calculator will provide you with moa and mrads as long as your inputs are correct.
@@carfvallrightsreservedwith6649 How many clicks referring to turning the Elevation Adjustment's Knob (click).
Giving those information, how much will be bullet drops respect to dead center target @ 1 mile?
And how many clicks do I need to turn the elevation to?
Ballistic calculator was not used & not allowed.
@@MDTTAC So what are your answers with your products?
1. Brand, model & setting power @ 100 yards?
2. Now @ 1 mile, what zoom power?
3. Without any scope adjustment where did the bullet hit or landed from target?
4. Provides in inches from dead center, then how many elevation needs to turn?
@@angelisone It was a Leupold MK 5, 5 - 25; he was shooting at max power (25). In the video, he didn't go a mile, but that is a personal preference. In the video, the initial rounds went .9 mils low and around .8 mils left from the point of aim. That equates to about 3" low from the point of aim; the adjustment would be the reverse. You would need to come up .9 mils and go .8 mils right to finish siting in.
But to clarify as well, we produce chassis systems and accessories for bolt action rifles; we don't manufacture complete firearms.
He's making it much more difficult than it needs to be. There's a much easier way to zero without doing BS computations on elevation and windage adjustments.
He zero'd in 3 shots, without having to stand up. You don't have to, but that is kinda the definition of easy.
Kein Interesse 😡😡😡
{{{shakes head}}} you's with them new fangled cartridge guns got it easy. Try muzzleloading.
Finding the best powder charge, to include granulation, brand, real vs synthetic powder, patch thickness, patch/bullet lube/grease (several formulations and brands) and so on for each projectile you use.
A patched round ball will use a different powder charge than a conical. A greased bore diameter conical will use a different charge than a saboted pistol or rifle bullet. Oh, the most accurate target and hunting loads are not the same, even when using the same projectiles.
On traditional side lock guns chances are no scope. A vernier tang sight and a globe front sight might be an option - if bases are available for your arm. Most adjustable sights are an adjustable leaf v sight like you'll find on a Winchester lever action.
A lot of traditional muzzleloading rifles have fixed sights. You can adjust windage by moving the front and/or rear sight. To adjust elevation AFTER getting a tight group you file down the front sight blade to raise the group or install a taller sight, and file it as necessary, for the range you zeroed in at. For longer and shorter ranges, and lighter or heavier loads, you need to learn how much to hold over or under (fixed sights) and how to compensate for different wind speed and direction (unless you have a tang sight with adjustable windage. Not all of them do.)
Another thing to consider is some jurisdictions prohibit scopes and electronic (red dot) sights on traditional muzzleloaders used in the muzzleloading seasons. (inlines are only allowed in the gun and any gun seasons; not the muzzleloader season.)
BTW, a traditional side lock muzzleloading rifle is quite capable of sub-MOA accuracy. Are you?
They are also capable of long range shots. During the US War of Independence, Congress wanted the Colonial troops to keep their shots under 400 yards when sniping the British officers. True story: One newly arrived British officer was mounted, his Sargents told him to dismount. The enemy were 700 yards away. To which that officer scoffed and said "They couldn't hit an elephant at that ra" He was killed by a headshot while speaking.
During the Civil War, the Whitworth rifle equiped with vernier tang sight and globe front sight was "accurate on a man size target" out to 1200 to 1500 yards, depending on which authority is speaking.
Question:
When sighting in with a scope, after making sure you're on the paper, why not take a shot using a rest, then without moving the rifle, adjust the crosshair to intersect the hole? Your second shot should then be in the bullseye.
"Two Shot Zero". It worked well from the 50's to at least 2020.