You guys are great! Have never been interested in fixing cars but moving to Canada makes you think and do things you have never even given thought to. Your videos helped me tremendously. Best part? Straight to the point, calm music that is barely noticed, no garbage "Hey what's up you guys" and "We've beed thinking about this video for a long time" and similar junk which is completely redundant waste of time. Big thanks and God bless.
Continuing with the excellent production quality of these how to videos. A tip - for removing the top mount nut from the piston rod, use a deep offset ring spanner with sufficient crank profile to fit in the mount recess.
I can see the diffuclty in winding the nut off the end of the piston rod. The piston rod end should be either an internal or external hex to fit a spanner of allen key but that's one for the shocks manufacturers. An mentioned in one of the other comments, torque settings please which encourages good engineering practise. Why the silly bib and braces? ..... what's wrong with professional overalls? A quality set of videos by the way!
Hi AutoDoc. Thanks for your videos. My question is different. I have a VW Bora 1.6SR AEH engine. Scanning it showed codes 01314 and 01315. I have checked the wires connecting the ECM and TCM and seem not to trace any faulty cable/harness as suggested by Ross tech. I have also checked my fuses and all looked good. My transmission goes into Limp mode quite often and gets corrected when you switch off engine and turn back on. Any useful tip to correcting this will be appreciated. Thanks.
Seems pretty easy, although I'll need two jacks, one to lift the wheel and remove tyre and one to lift the coil(I'll use my brothers jack). Waiting for a set of rear shock absorbers to arrive(seat ibiza ..which is about the same style as this VW)
Thank you for your request! The complexity of removing the part may vary, since you may require some extra tools/liquids to remove a rusty nut. Best Regards, Autodoc Team!
Is everything just snugged? Shouldn't these be torqued down to some NM? I don't want to have my shock absorbers fly off when I accidentally hit a pothole.
Thank you for your feedback! We appreciate your valuable comment. We know that we made mistakes in not using the torque wrench. The new video will show it and there will be more information on tightening moment Best regards, Autodoc.
You can do it on jackstands as well its just a pain in the ass and takes longer... Like everything else thats under the car but not everyone has the space and thousands to buy a lift so ...
Unfortunately, the complexity of replacement is individual on each machine, it all depends on the technical condition of the parts. Our videos are for informational purposes only in the sequence of replacement and to save time, we loosen some of the nodes in advance. AUTODOC
You are absolutely right, in practice, it is imperative to use a torque wrench and observe the appropriate tightening torques. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. AUTODOC
![How to change rear shock absorber on VW GOLF 4 (1J1) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kce7jYElY6A/mqdefault.jpg)
No chatter, no small talk, no "Hey TH-cam!", no crazy music. 100% informational. Best. Video. Ever. Thank you!
We are glad that this video was useful to you!
The music is quite annoying
You guys are great! Have never been interested in fixing cars but moving to Canada makes you think and do things you have never even given thought to.
Your videos helped me tremendously. Best part? Straight to the point, calm music that is barely noticed, no garbage "Hey what's up you guys" and "We've beed thinking about this video for a long time" and similar junk which is completely redundant waste of time.
Big thanks and God bless.
We are glad that you enjoy our work!
I had no idea it's just that, so easy. Great video!
Continuing with the excellent production quality of these how to videos.
A tip - for removing the top mount nut from the piston rod, use a deep offset ring spanner with sufficient crank profile to fit in the mount recess.
By far one of the best tutorial channel on TH-cam!
Thank you for the feedback! It inspires us to make more videos! Follow our upcoming updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
love this man nothing perturbs him where u and i would be groaning lol
Nice simple video, only thing I would like to have seen included would be torque specs for mounting.
Thank you for your feedback! We are grateful for your comment. Our new video will surely include this information. Best regards, Autodoc.
suspension stuff is always just tight as F*** lol
I've watched many of your Tutorials and they've helped me immensely. Thank you!
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
I can see the diffuclty in winding the nut off the end of the piston rod.
The piston rod end should be either an internal or external hex to fit a spanner of allen key but that's one for the shocks manufacturers.
An mentioned in one of the other comments, torque settings please which encourages good engineering practise.
Why the silly bib and braces? ..... what's wrong with professional overalls?
A quality set of videos by the way!
Thank you for your feedback! Thank for your kind words ! Our new videos will surely show this information for our viewers. Best regards, Autodoc.
@@autodocuk
You're welcome!
The video series are providing valuable know-how.
Hi AutoDoc. Thanks for your videos. My question is different. I have a VW Bora 1.6SR AEH engine. Scanning it showed codes 01314 and 01315. I have checked the wires connecting the ECM and TCM and seem not to trace any faulty cable/harness as suggested by Ross tech. I have also checked my fuses and all looked good. My transmission goes into Limp mode quite often and gets corrected when you switch off engine and turn back on. Any useful tip to correcting this will be appreciated. Thanks.
Thank you for the feedback! We strongly recommend you to visit a specialized car service center. Best regards, Autodoc.
What size is the nut that was removed from the top of the strut @ 3:19?
16mm if OEM nut was used. Or sometimes 17mm If aftermarket.
What brand/kind of pry bar is that? Thank you!
Thank you for the feedback! The brand name is STARK. Best Regards, Autodoc
Seems pretty easy, although I'll need two jacks, one to lift the wheel and remove tyre and one to lift the coil(I'll use my brothers jack). Waiting for a set of rear shock absorbers to arrive(seat ibiza ..which is about the same style as this VW)
Thank you for the feedback! It’s great to know that our video was useful! Follow our upcoming updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Great video!
Thank you for your positive comment. We hope you keep watching!
anyone know if the top nut is as easy to remove as shown in the video? or does it sieze is place and require a special tool to remove?
Thank you for your request! The complexity of removing the part may vary, since you may require some extra tools/liquids to remove a rusty nut. Best Regards, Autodoc Team!
Is everything just snugged? Shouldn't these be torqued down to some NM? I don't want to have my shock absorbers fly off when I accidentally hit a pothole.
Thank you for your feedback! We appreciate your valuable comment. We know that we made mistakes in not using the torque wrench. The new video will show it and there will be more information on tightening moment Best regards, Autodoc.
thx for the help, saved me 70 euros
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Step one....buy a lift :-)
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
You can do it on jackstands as well its just a pain in the ass and takes longer... Like everything else thats under the car but not everyone has the space and thousands to buy a lift so ...
Shouldn't there be a snap ring 1J0512109 ?
Thank you for your comment!
Yes, you are right, but this ring needs to be changed with the replacement of the spring.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
the nut at 2:54 can be a hassle to get loose because of how its locking.
Unfortunately, the complexity of replacement is individual on each machine, it all depends on the technical condition of the parts.
Our videos are for informational purposes only in the sequence of replacement and to save time, we loosen some of the nodes in advance.
AUTODOC
Thanks, excellent videos. But please smile
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad you find our video interesting and informative. Stay tuned. Best regards, Autodoc.
the only wrong thing i see is he never used a torque wrench those are strech bolts one time use only ???
You are absolutely right, in practice, it is imperative to use a torque wrench and observe the appropriate tightening torques.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
AUTODOC
yep definetly buy a lift lmao
Thank you for your feedback! I think it is the best step for the qualified and secure car parts replacement. Best regards, Autodoc.