BLACK FRIDAY - use code *BLACKFRIDAY10* for 10% Off Appliance Parts www.amresupply.com/catalog/Appliance-Parts Valid for unlimited use between Nov 29th - Dec 2nd, 2024 at midnight. Valid only for online purchases. Must enter code at checkout. Subject to product availability, no rain checks issued. Discount applies to pre-tax total only, excludes shipping & handling. Can be used in conjunction with sale priced items and quantity buy discounts. AMRE Supply reserves the right to modify or cancel this promotion at any time without notice.
Does this has to be attached to compressor? I broke the clip on side somehow for control board, do I need to get it repaired? I see continuous red blink but refrigerator seem to work fine.
Thanks for watching. If the screw or the clip broke that mounts this then it shouldn't effect how the inverter control board works. Just make sure that the wire connection is secure.
@@AmreSupply thanks for your response, really appreciate it. Checked again, it's just detached a bit with broken clip/outer black side of board and screw coming out- the fridge is working fine. I do see a red light blink, I believe it's common inside control board just that it's detached a bit so I can see it?
Thanks for watching. When it comes to control boards and inverters, they can't really be tested easily without specialized tools or knowledge. Anything with a circuit board is inherently a black box. It's not like testing the regular start components like a start relay or an overload which all you need is to measure resistance or continuity. So in this case it is more of a process of elimination. For models without an inverter this is the normal process of troubleshooting: th-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/w-d-xo.html
If the refrigerator is warm and freezer is cold, could the compressor inverter board be bad? I’ve tested many other components and they seem good. I don’t hear all the clicking and knocking sounds I’ve heard from the day I bought this fridge but the freezer is cold, just not the fridge. Electrolux 2013 model
Thanks for watching. If the freezer is cold that means the compressor is running and heat is being extracted. So it is more likely that it's an issue with the airflow. It could be a buildup of ice, a faulty evaporator fan, or a stuck damper door motor. You can learn more in this troubleshooting guide: th-cam.com/video/DR1r9BjS46A/w-d-xo.html
@@AmreSupply thanks for your response. I was thinking it must be working but a lot of TH-cam said it could be the compressor in that situation. I am so glad you responded since it seems like it hasn’t been addressed. Pretty sure it’s my thermostat! Sub’d to a great channel
@@AR-xu2gg Thanks for the subscription we're just happy to help. The video that I liked will explain it in more detail but here's the logic: Freezer will only continue to stay frozen when the compressor runs. If the compressor or start components fail, then no heat will be removed from freezer and it will melt. If freezer stays cold/ frozen, then compressor is working. If the freezer is cold / still frozen, but the fridge is too warm then it's likely a blockage in the airflow. Top freezer models have a thermostat, which will detect when the fridge is warm and will trigger it to run. A faulty thermostat will not create a condition where the freezer is cold but the fridge is warm as it would continue to run and eventually the fridge would cool as well. In this case there is likely a blockage, so that air from the freezer is not circulated into the fridge, or the evaporator fain has failed and is not pushing the air. As well a buildup of ice can also block air from flowing into the fridge compartment. In other models this airflow is controlled by a damper motor. Hope this helps.
@@AmreSupply excellent, thank you. There was a ton of ice and the back of the freezer was frozen. Once I got it thawed out, and changed the thermostat, it seems to be working now. Damper was working, heater had continuity, and even the thermostat seemed to work but inconsistently based on sometimes opening at room temp but not at other times as I cycled it through cold to hot cycles so I decided to just replace it and the freezer is defrosting correctly now. I really appreciate your input!!! It’s a 13 year old Electrolux bottom freezer, double doors fridge with 230v compressor powered with an inverter.
@@AR-xu2gg Thanks for the update. That all makes sense and a lot of ice will restrict the airflow between the fridge and freezer. To film this series we let a freezer ice up completely, which blocked the vents. Over a few weeks the average fridge temperature increased until it was sitting about about 15°C. Glad you got it figured out!
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
BLACK FRIDAY - use code *BLACKFRIDAY10* for 10% Off Appliance Parts
www.amresupply.com/catalog/Appliance-Parts
Valid for unlimited use between Nov 29th - Dec 2nd, 2024 at midnight. Valid only for online purchases. Must enter code at checkout. Subject to product availability, no rain checks issued. Discount applies to pre-tax total only, excludes shipping & handling. Can be used in conjunction with sale priced items and quantity buy discounts. AMRE Supply reserves the right to modify or cancel this promotion at any time without notice.
Does this has to be attached to compressor? I broke the clip on side somehow for control board, do I need to get it repaired? I see continuous red blink but refrigerator seem to work fine.
Thanks for watching. If the screw or the clip broke that mounts this then it shouldn't effect how the inverter control board works. Just make sure that the wire connection is secure.
@@AmreSupply thanks for your response, really appreciate it. Checked again, it's just detached a bit with broken clip/outer black side of board and screw coming out- the fridge is working fine. I do see a red light blink, I believe it's common inside control board just that it's detached a bit so I can see it?
It would be better to have an info how to deteсt if the invertor failed.
Thanks for watching. When it comes to control boards and inverters, they can't really be tested easily without specialized tools or knowledge. Anything with a circuit board is inherently a black box. It's not like testing the regular start components like a start relay or an overload which all you need is to measure resistance or continuity. So in this case it is more of a process of elimination. For models without an inverter this is the normal process of troubleshooting: th-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/w-d-xo.html
If the refrigerator is warm and freezer is cold, could the compressor inverter board be bad? I’ve tested many other components and they seem good. I don’t hear all the clicking and knocking sounds I’ve heard from the day I bought this fridge but the freezer is cold, just not the fridge. Electrolux 2013 model
Thanks for watching. If the freezer is cold that means the compressor is running and heat is being extracted.
So it is more likely that it's an issue with the airflow. It could be a buildup of ice, a faulty evaporator fan, or a stuck damper door motor. You can learn more in this troubleshooting guide: th-cam.com/video/DR1r9BjS46A/w-d-xo.html
@@AmreSupply thanks for your response. I was thinking it must be working but a lot of TH-cam said it could be the compressor in that situation. I am so glad you responded since it seems like it hasn’t been addressed. Pretty sure it’s my thermostat! Sub’d to a great channel
@@AR-xu2gg Thanks for the subscription we're just happy to help.
The video that I liked will explain it in more detail but here's the logic:
Freezer will only continue to stay frozen when the compressor runs.
If the compressor or start components fail, then no heat will be removed from freezer and it will melt.
If freezer stays cold/ frozen, then compressor is working.
If the freezer is cold / still frozen, but the fridge is too warm then it's likely a blockage in the airflow.
Top freezer models have a thermostat, which will detect when the fridge is warm and will trigger it to run. A faulty thermostat will not create a condition where the freezer is cold but the fridge is warm as it would continue to run and eventually the fridge would cool as well.
In this case there is likely a blockage, so that air from the freezer is not circulated into the fridge, or the evaporator fain has failed and is not pushing the air. As well a buildup of ice can also block air from flowing into the fridge compartment.
In other models this airflow is controlled by a damper motor.
Hope this helps.
@@AmreSupply excellent, thank you. There was a ton of ice and the back of the freezer was frozen. Once I got it thawed out, and changed the thermostat, it seems to be working now. Damper was working, heater had continuity, and even the thermostat seemed to work but inconsistently based on sometimes opening at room temp but not at other times as I cycled it through cold to hot cycles so I decided to just replace it and the freezer is defrosting correctly now. I really appreciate your input!!! It’s a 13 year old Electrolux bottom freezer, double doors fridge with 230v compressor powered with an inverter.
@@AR-xu2gg Thanks for the update. That all makes sense and a lot of ice will restrict the airflow between the fridge and freezer. To film this series we let a freezer ice up completely, which blocked the vents. Over a few weeks the average fridge temperature increased until it was sitting about about 15°C.
Glad you got it figured out!