THANK YOU! I could not find a local mechanic willing to do this and the dealer wanted $350 for both coolant loops. I did not feel comfortable enough to do it my self until I watched your videos. To add to the suggestions there is not need to unplug the sensor on the drain and you could take off less cover to get to the drain valve. Thanks again!
Thanks for the detailed step-by-step videos. USed them replacing my Gen2 Prius coolant. VERY important that the funnel fit snug and tight into the radiator filler neck, otherwise the coolant will seep up/out around it. The multimeter trick works slick too. Thanks again! Mine used 1.5 gals of Toyota SLLC as well.
Thanks for your videos. Helped me change my inverter and engine coolant. Like you I replaced 1.5gal in my engine coolant (took a while to drain, but wasn't too bad). My inverter coolant was around 0.5gal (or a little short). Here are the tricks that I found (no bleeder hoses needed). Just pour the coolant in, and when it is hard for it to naturally flow, just squeeze your tubes. Then when that is "full" and can't be burped, use the motor to run the fluid through the system. Whether that is the one for the engine coolant (and the relay short) or turning the inverter on by pushing the power button twice. It only take a few seconds maybe twice of doing and doesn't kill your 12v much. Then pour and burp the hose. Still make sure to open the bleeder tubes, but not like you have to drain a whole bunch. And after a day of driving, I will likely top off my inverter coolant. After doing this and taking 3 hours, I would say it could be done in an hour, and only consuming 2 gallons of the Toyota SLLC2 50/50 coolant. Hope this helps!
hands down best video of this out there!!! I replaced inverter valve & coolant. the jumper on the pump relay is the coolest trick. old coolant looked quite good, maybe little cloudy but not much, 131K. I'm sure it's not been done b4. I couldn't see turbulence in the inverter reservoir when jumping the pump relay, only once I started the car. it took 1.7 gallons total. disconnected battery to clear the check engine light👍. TY for taking the time to share this!
Instead of the voltmeter pump step I opted for a different method. With BOTH the brake and emergency brake down, I ran the engine in drive with the accelerator down for 30 seconds then turned it off and filled a little bit more. I repeated this until it stayed full at the radiator cap. I can confirm that about 1.5 gallons of coolant is needed. Thanks.
Be sure to put coolant in the expansion reservoir (white bottle) -fill to "cold" line- or the system will suck air back in when the motor cools down, or if anymore air bubbles get expelled.
GREAT EXCELLENT WANT TO WATCH MORE VIDEOS ON HOW TO CHANGE TRANSMISSION AND ENGINE OF TOYOTA PRIUS 2004-2009.I AM REALLY THANKFUL AND APPRECIATE THESE VIDEOS
Your are the man! I followed your technique to bleed my system, and got all the air out! I recently had the stealership flush and replace both coolant systems. After I got it back, I heard bubbling in the firewall on start up and occasionally when the engine would cycle on and off. Took it to the stealership to have them mitigate this two separate times without resolution. I bled my system without using the multi-meter, just adding coolant a little at a time. About one month later, my heat control valve or coolant pump (error code P1121) started coming up. The stealership wanted $450 to do the job! WHAT??? So got the part for around $90 out the door. Bought some hose clamps, and did the job in the driveway in about 1.5 hours. After I was done, the bubbling was back. I tried using my method on bleeding the system, and it was just not happening. So as nervous as I was to stick the multi-meter in the relay switch port, I did it and it worked like a charm! No more stealership for me. I prefer to do things right, and with less financial strain.
@@InteeRaymee no the car is off. You don't actually need the multimeter just something to make the completed circuit (paper clip might work). Pay very close attention to the exact spot to put the multimeter. You will know immediately cuz the pump will make a whirling noise. Don't run it for too long per the original video poster, or you risk burning up the motor. Never again will I take my car into the stealership. They can't even do their jobs right.
@@olhesty2196I love your wording “stealership.” They put a wrong type of coolant (green) into my inverter reservoir. I have to fix their incompetent work. And yeah overcharged me.
for anyone doing this getting a bunch of disilled water and filling it with that and then running the car like he did to burp the system then drain again is the best option if your going to change coolants. as most likely in the heater core he still had some of the old red coolant and else where in the system . as his coolant came out looking pretty red in the end. but if you do a full switch to the new coolant you can move your interval all the way to 100k-150k changes. the total system ICE coolant in these systems is around 1.9 for the inverter its around 2.2 qts ish. and if your chaning to a new coolant type the more out the better
Only things i would do differently is when you have the engine running, periodically jump in the car, keep the parking brake engaged, hold the brake pedal, put it in drive, and then also hold the gas pedal. This will heat the engine to open the thermostat faster. Put it back in park and hop out to refill the funnel every 15 to 30 sec. If the thermostat isn't open, running the engine isn't doing anything. You should also keep an eye on that overflow tank as it should be filled at least to minimum at all times.
inverter coolant and the engine coolant are in seperate circulations. this car is 2nd gen one . you are puting coolant to the engine part which is run by a water pump driven by a belt. inverter part is seperate i think. to bleed you need to start the engine.
Dhammika Aryawansha The Engine coolant has two systems. One is the engine driven water pump as you describe. The second is a small pump that takes hot water from the engine and stores it in an insulated container when you turn the car off. When you start the car back up it reverses and puts the hot water back into the engine to help if warm up faster. When you shut the car off you can hear it run for 5 seconds or so when it is putting the hot water into the insulated container.
Thank you for your videos I'm in the process of replacing the coolant flow control valve on my 2005 Prius do I need to bleed the whole system like you show in this video or do I bleed the inverter coolant only? I will appreciate your input thank-you again.
Do you also somehow start the hybrid system and work the pump which feeds the heating system/heater core? And have you ever had a need to run a bottle of radiator flush prior to refilling with fresh fluid? I would thing it would be a nightmare to extract/remove the flush from the system after it's circulated for the prescribed time. Thank you for posting your videos - you cover aspects of the procedure which other posters have not discussed. I just want to get it right the first time on my 2008. Greetings from South Louisiana!
It would've been a lot easier and faster to just put the vehicle in maintenance mode. You could've used a no spill funnel on the radiator neck and run the tube from the bleeder valve to the inside of the inverter reservoir. You could've kept them both topped off until the radiator stopped gurgling and the flow from the bleeder valve became one continuous stream of coolant.
If you don't have a multimeter can you turn on the pump by turning on the car? Do you have to reconnect the heating tank connecter you disconnected in your first video?
It's not incredibly effective. You need I think it's like a fan for your radiator to kick on, but that goes with your thermostat opening - so after replacing my thermostat was still getting a clog coming up P2601 and took out the pump. Burping the system as regular hasn't cut it and I'm about to try this because in the 15 minutes it took softly on the gas pedal to get my engine to heat up to open my thermostat didn't cut it to bleed the the system inside another 30 minutes. Based on newer models it looks like something about the positioning of the tank being low doesn't allow the air to escape. But every answer I'm turning up looks like turning on that motor manually should do it.
Hey Jason, What did you do to ensure the thermos didn’t have air trapped in it? I heard this could be a major issue and destroy the engine through overheating. Thanks for the good content
My coolant reserve tank looks still empty after driving my car for a few times after the same repair. Should I add some coolant fluid directly into the reserve tank?
thanks for posting, we have a 1st gen 2002 and right hand drive, but it should be almost the same, but cant find a bleeder valve,maybe ok to burp the hoses ect, possibly
what percent do you think would be new fluid if instead of draining it you just opened the bottom and poured new up top never letting air in the engine? Too bad you cant add some sort of dye to see the new come out the bottom. The guy i bought mine from put too much pure antifreeze in and it test like to -60.
+reedjasond When plugging in your voltmeter how exactly are you achieving that? I have a voltmeter with a fresh battery and I've followed your instructions, but the pump will not run. I suspect I am not engaging the terminals correctly... and yes the configuration on the meter is matching yours!
Zenainder You are basically shorting out the two contacts. In this video is is using the volt meter in Amps mode so short out the contacts. Many times people have multimeters that have been overloaded and have burned out an internal fuse. Also be sure as he says to have the meter in 10amp mode (both dial and where the leads plug in) or at least 5 amps if you don't have a 10 amp setting.
+Zenainder , you dont need a voltmeter to run it , if you need to run voltmeter set up to 10AMP and move the plug to 10AMP , or you dont need the voltmeter at all , just find a wire then touch those 2 together and the pump will run my friend
Hey, some of these comments are throwing in just general burping the system - I'm pretty sure this is this way because your CHS tank has air trapped in inside it... leading to your heat not working.
I thought you suppose to bleed and fill the coolant at almost the same time? Bleeder old coolant into a waste container? Waste a lil' more coolant but make more sense? They mixed a little but hey better than the old one?
I am shocked, that the guy is using electric pump to pump engine coolant, that pump is not in any way connected to the engine cooling system, he suppose to run the engine, which will ran the cooling liquid pump. He is not showing the bleeding hose, which would show a real stream coming from it, if he would use the proper pump. This is very unfortunate for TH-cam, that along with very good information, you can get a very misleading staff, like this video.
Everyone can ignore this guy, he doesnt know what he is talking about. I can verify with 1st hand experience thepump activated in this video does help burp the engine coolant system.
@@HandfulOfTranquility he has probably never delt with an electric water pump before. cars without them would need you to run the engine as they are belt driven. but things like he suggest having a real stream of coolant come back out the bleder valve would be useless once coolant comes out of it and its not having air bubbles it has in a sense bleed what air bubbles are near it. the reason it did bleed more once he started it is the engine got up to temp and opened up the thermos to bleed the rest of the system behind it.
On a Prius the two coolant pumps are electric and do not require the engine runnng to pump. Same goes for the power steering, the ac compressor and even the power brakes.
@@rj.parker A gen 2 Prius has 4 water pumps. The main engine water pump is belt-driven. The inverter has an electric pump, then there's the aux/heater electric pump and finally there's the CHS electric pump he's running in the video.
Hello. I am trying to change my coolant. What info don't hear the pump after inserting the multimeter? Does it mean the pump is not good? I have current in the relay outlet. Thx
I have heard a reading of 2-3 amps means bubbles are still present. Note you need to have a multimeter that can measure 10 Amps (not mA). If you don't have the 10 Amp feature, you can use a wire to short the terminals. When I placed the multimeter in mA mode, I measured .003 (erroneous reading) and the pump did not run. When I placed the multimeter in 10 Amp mode, the pump ran, and at first I measured fluctuations between 2-3 Amps. Place the car into the accessories mode by pressing Start twice (without pressing the Brake). Connect the multimeter in the 10 Amp mode and run the motor for 15-20 seconds at a time while allowing the pump to rest a minute or two between runs (repeat 6 times). When the car is in the accessories mode, I measured about 3.94 amps. When not the car is off, I measured about 4.09 amps.
+Bob Waller i think it is so easy just use vaccum and small tub , to stick all the way to the bottom to suck it dry , or take it out and empty it if you have the access
you probably already ran into it but if you get everthing out of the engine depending on the model it could need 1.9+- gallons just for it. but that only happens if your doing a flush to get into the heater core. otherwise you will use about 1.5 for the ICE and 2 ish qts for the inverter. you probably have already ran into it but you may have ended up a little short on coolant if you filled the inverter to full and the over flow bottle for the ICE to between full and low it would take a little more then 2
I know this is from over 4 years ago but does anyone know if you should also have the climate system on High Temp and Fan speed 100% to flush the heater core as well when the engine is running. I bought my car used and this past winter I would hear gurgling from the heater core area when the heater was on.
its a good idea once the car reaches temp it should open up the heater core. its also a good idea if your going to do this to do a flush threw the system with distilled water if your going to change coolant types like he did here. and if its a prius cranking the heater on is also a good way to keep the engine running and removing bubbles if any are deeper in the system
I have heard a reading of 2-3 amps means bubbles are still present. Note you need to have a multimeter that can measure 10 Amps (not mA). If you don't have the 10 Amp feature, you can use a wire to short the terminals. When I placed the multimeter in mA mode, I measured .003 (erroneous reading) and the pump did not run. When I placed the multimeter in 10 Amp mode, the pump ran, and at first I measured fluctuations between 2-3 Amps. Place the car into the accessories mode by pressing Start twice (without pressing the Brake). Connect the multimeter in the 10 Amp mode and run the motor for 15-20 seconds at a time while allowing the pump to rest a minute or two between runs (repeat 6 times). When the car is in the accessories mode, I measured about 3.94 amps. When not the car is off, I measured about 4.09 amps.
I filled the inverter coolant reserve bottle which took about twice the amount you see in the bottle (to fill attached hoses). I connected a transparent hose from a bleeder nob located at the front of the inverter and fed it into the top of the inverter coolant reserve bottle. I loosed the nob a few turns. I turned on the car utilities by pressing the start button twice (without pressing the brake). I could hear the coolant pump running but the fluid level in the bottle did not change. After about 5 minutes, the fluid level suddenly dropped to the bottom of the bottle. I filled the bottle once more and topped it off a bit. Once the air bubbles have been bled out, you can close the bleed nob and remove the hose. I did not measure the amount of coolant but I'm guessing about 1/2 gallon. People have been saying it takes about 1.5 gallons of coolant for both the inverter and ICE engine.
Hello, I am in the same boat as Zenainder. I have have tried two of my friends multimeters and I bought a new one for myself, so three in all. I have hooked everything up as you did: Black in the COM, Red in the 10amp. I turned the dial to the 10 amp setting. I put the red in the top of where the relay goes and the black, just below it. Nothing, nodda. You never mentioned if you had the key in the ignition and or whether the car was turned on or if the start button was hit twice. I have tried it every way (key not in, key in, key in and the start button hit twice, car on and I keep getting the same result, nothing. The multimeter doesn't come off of zeros. In the video, it looks like the red is in a setting that has a number that reds more than 10amp. Does anyone out there know why it worked for reedjasond, but not for Zenainder or myself? My Prius is a 2007. I have checked all the fuses and non are blown. I would appreciate any imput. I have gotten a hair less than a gallon to go back in, it won't take anymore, yet more than a gallon came out. I need to get the rest of the air bubbles out. Your waterpump tricked worked great, I need the same thing. Also, I tried the wire trick, that didn't work either. Thanks all. Shane
i have a 1st gen 2002 and they are slightly different, but with care i managed to figure it out +(mine is a RH drive here in NEW Zealand) and all the stuff is on the other side of the car, this is a great tutorial video and top marks to this man for posting it
THANK YOU! I could not find a local mechanic willing to do this and the dealer wanted $350 for both coolant loops. I did not feel comfortable enough to do it my self until I watched your videos. To add to the suggestions there is not need to unplug the sensor on the drain and you could take off less cover to get to the drain valve. Thanks again!
rip off dealers eh
Thanks for the detailed step-by-step videos. USed them replacing my Gen2 Prius coolant. VERY important that the funnel fit snug and tight into the radiator filler neck, otherwise the coolant will seep up/out around it. The multimeter trick works slick too. Thanks again! Mine used 1.5 gals of Toyota SLLC as well.
Thanks for your videos. Helped me change my inverter and engine coolant. Like you I replaced 1.5gal in my engine coolant (took a while to drain, but wasn't too bad). My inverter coolant was around 0.5gal (or a little short). Here are the tricks that I found (no bleeder hoses needed). Just pour the coolant in, and when it is hard for it to naturally flow, just squeeze your tubes. Then when that is "full" and can't be burped, use the motor to run the fluid through the system. Whether that is the one for the engine coolant (and the relay short) or turning the inverter on by pushing the power button twice. It only take a few seconds maybe twice of doing and doesn't kill your 12v much. Then pour and burp the hose. Still make sure to open the bleeder tubes, but not like you have to drain a whole bunch. And after a day of driving, I will likely top off my inverter coolant. After doing this and taking 3 hours, I would say it could be done in an hour, and only consuming 2 gallons of the Toyota SLLC2 50/50 coolant. Hope this helps!
Just push the power button twice without enabling the speedometer right?
Really helpful! No way if have figured this out using normal engine bleeding techniques. Thank you!
hands down best video of this out there!!! I replaced inverter valve & coolant. the jumper on the pump relay is the coolest trick. old coolant looked quite good, maybe little cloudy but not much, 131K. I'm sure it's not been done b4. I couldn't see turbulence in the inverter reservoir when jumping the pump relay, only once I started the car. it took 1.7 gallons total. disconnected battery to clear the check engine light👍. TY for taking the time to share this!
Instead of the voltmeter pump step I opted for a different method. With BOTH the brake and emergency brake down, I ran the engine in drive with the accelerator down for 30 seconds then turned it off and filled a little bit more. I repeated this until it stayed full at the radiator cap. I can confirm that about 1.5 gallons of coolant is needed. Thanks.
+Typhoonbladefist but wouldn't you not want to run the engine with such a small about of coolant in the system?
+Jason schmidt Ideally yes, but it worked and didn't overheat in the process.
This is also how you can force charge your battery. Pretty coo
Thank you very much for making these videos for the prius. you saved me hundreds from the dealership!!!!
Be sure to put coolant in the expansion reservoir (white bottle) -fill to "cold" line- or the system will suck air back in when the motor cools down, or if anymore air bubbles get expelled.
GREAT EXCELLENT WANT TO WATCH MORE VIDEOS ON HOW TO CHANGE TRANSMISSION AND ENGINE OF TOYOTA PRIUS 2004-2009.I AM REALLY THANKFUL AND APPRECIATE THESE VIDEOS
Your are the man! I followed your technique to bleed my system, and got all the air out! I recently had the stealership flush and replace both coolant systems. After I got it back, I heard bubbling in the firewall on start up and occasionally when the engine would cycle on and off. Took it to the stealership to have them mitigate this two separate times without resolution. I bled my system without using the multi-meter, just adding coolant a little at a time. About one month later, my heat control valve or coolant pump (error code P1121) started coming up. The stealership wanted $450 to do the job! WHAT??? So got the part for around $90 out the door. Bought some hose clamps, and did the job in the driveway in about 1.5 hours. After I was done, the bubbling was back. I tried using my method on bleeding the system, and it was just not happening. So as nervous as I was to stick the multi-meter in the relay switch port, I did it and it worked like a charm! No more stealership for me. I prefer to do things right, and with less financial strain.
Brandon Hestwood I’m having a hard time getting the multimeter trick to work. Is there a trick? Is the car on in any way?
@@InteeRaymee no the car is off. You don't actually need the multimeter just something to make the completed circuit (paper clip might work). Pay very close attention to the exact spot to put the multimeter. You will know immediately cuz the pump will make a whirling noise. Don't run it for too long per the original video poster, or you risk burning up the motor. Never again will I take my car into the stealership. They can't even do their jobs right.
Thank you for this comment. Me too I’m afraid to stick multimeter in that relay
@@olhesty2196I love your wording “stealership.” They put a wrong type of coolant (green) into my inverter reservoir. I have to fix their incompetent work. And yeah overcharged me.
Great video, thank you for walking us through all of the steps. Very thoughtful! 👍🏻
for anyone doing this getting a bunch of disilled water and filling it with that and then running the car like he did to burp the system then drain again is the best option if your going to change coolants. as most likely in the heater core he still had some of the old red coolant and else where in the system . as his coolant came out looking pretty red in the end. but if you do a full switch to the new coolant you can move your interval all the way to 100k-150k changes. the total system ICE coolant in these systems is around 1.9 for the inverter its around 2.2 qts ish. and if your chaning to a new coolant type the more out the better
This is such a great idea. Thank you!!!
thanks you so much for detail explanation. appreciated your hard work.
Only things i would do differently is when you have the engine running, periodically jump in the car, keep the parking brake engaged, hold the brake pedal, put it in drive, and then also hold the gas pedal. This will heat the engine to open the thermostat faster. Put it back in park and hop out to refill the funnel every 15 to 30 sec. If the thermostat isn't open, running the engine isn't doing anything. You should also keep an eye on that overflow tank as it should be filled at least to minimum at all times.
inverter coolant and the engine coolant are in seperate circulations. this car is 2nd gen one . you are puting coolant to the engine part which is run by a water
pump driven by a belt. inverter part is seperate i think. to bleed you need to start the engine.
Dhammika Aryawansha The Engine coolant has two systems. One is the engine driven water pump as you describe. The second is a small pump that takes hot water from the engine and stores it in an insulated container when you turn the car off. When you start the car back up it reverses and puts the hot water back into the engine to help if warm up faster. When you shut the car off you can hear it run for 5 seconds or so when it is putting the hot water into the insulated container.
Why not turn on engine to setting 2? (Press start twice without depressing brake peddle)
Thank you for your videos I'm in the process of replacing the coolant flow control valve on my 2005 Prius do I need to bleed the whole system like you show in this video or do I bleed the inverter coolant only? I will appreciate your input thank-you again.
Do you also somehow start the hybrid system and work the pump which feeds the heating system/heater core? And have you ever had a need to run a bottle of radiator flush prior to refilling with fresh fluid? I would thing it would be a nightmare to extract/remove the flush from the system after it's circulated for the prescribed time. Thank you for posting your videos - you cover aspects of the procedure which other posters have not discussed. I just want to get it right the first time on my 2008. Greetings from South Louisiana!
That coolant looks like it would be good with a few ice cubes on a hot day
I wonder if this is how the dealership would fill the coolant? If not, how would they do it?
Thank you so much. Huge help.
Where did you find the ratchet that you used to refasten the panels underneath the car?
Thanks. When I connect the relay terminals with the multimeter, my water pump does not run. Any idea.
Reedjason,why is necessary to disconnect the coolant heat storage tank sensor.thanks in advance for your response.
I just replaced themostat, but it's not hot enough even add cooland. Is air in the cooland system?
It would've been a lot easier and faster to just put the vehicle in maintenance mode. You could've used a no spill funnel on the radiator neck and run the tube from the bleeder valve to the inside of the inverter reservoir. You could've kept them both topped off until the radiator stopped gurgling and the flow from the bleeder valve became one continuous stream of coolant.
If you don't have a multimeter can you turn on the pump by turning on the car? Do you have to reconnect the heating tank connecter you disconnected in your first video?
It's not incredibly effective. You need I think it's like a fan for your radiator to kick on, but that goes with your thermostat opening - so after replacing my thermostat was still getting a clog coming up P2601 and took out the pump. Burping the system as regular hasn't cut it and I'm about to try this because in the 15 minutes it took softly on the gas pedal to get my engine to heat up to open my thermostat didn't cut it to bleed the the system inside another 30 minutes. Based on newer models it looks like something about the positioning of the tank being low doesn't allow the air to escape. But every answer I'm turning up looks like turning on that motor manually should do it.
Hey Jason,
What did you do to ensure the thermos didn’t have air trapped in it? I heard this could be a major issue and destroy the engine through overheating. Thanks for the good content
if you leave the ICE running it will open them up at a rated temp you can run it with the cap off so the bubbles pop out.
Obviously late - I think you just have to initially confirm that you ran it until your thermostat opened up. So go until you hear your fan kick on.
When you shut the engine off and the fluid cycled into the thermos bottle did the fluid level drop?
My coolant reserve tank looks still empty after driving my car for a few times after the same repair. Should I add some coolant fluid directly into the reserve tank?
Did you fix the reserve problem? How did you fill reserve level?
thanks for posting, we have a 1st gen 2002 and right hand drive, but it should be almost the same, but cant find a bleeder valve,maybe ok to burp the hoses ect,
possibly
Cant you just put it in maintenance mode instead of manually running the pump?
This was a very helpful video, thank you! The multimeter should be on 10 amps in the DC field (not AC), if that might help others.
What did you do with the heat storage tank? Why didnt you show what you did with it?!
what percent do you think would be new fluid if instead of draining it you just opened the bottom and poured new up top never letting air in the engine? Too bad you cant add some sort of dye to see the new come out the bottom. The guy i bought mine from put too much pure antifreeze in and it test like to -60.
did you adjust the knob on the multimeter or it doesn't matter where it faces?
+reedjasond
When plugging in your voltmeter how exactly are you achieving that? I have a voltmeter with a fresh battery and I've followed your instructions, but the pump will not run. I suspect I am not engaging the terminals correctly... and yes the configuration on the meter is matching yours!
Zenainder You are basically shorting out the two contacts. In this video is is using the volt meter in Amps mode so short out the contacts. Many times people have multimeters that have been overloaded and have burned out an internal fuse. Also be sure as he says to have the meter in 10amp mode (both dial and where the leads plug in) or at least 5 amps if you don't have a 10 amp setting.
+Zenainder , you dont need a voltmeter to run it , if you need to run voltmeter set up to 10AMP and move the plug to 10AMP , or you dont need the voltmeter at all , just find a wire then touch those 2 together and the pump will run my friend
Hey, some of these comments are throwing in just general burping the system - I'm pretty sure this is this way because your CHS tank has air trapped in inside it... leading to your heat not working.
I thought you suppose to bleed and fill the coolant at almost the same time? Bleeder old coolant into a waste container? Waste a lil' more coolant but make more sense? They mixed a little but hey better than the old one?
Thank You Sr , this is super amazing video , very good explanation how to make this jub , muy agradecido , very thankful .
I wonder if this concept also works for the 3rd gen prius??
I am shocked, that the guy is using electric pump to pump engine coolant, that pump is not in any way connected to the engine cooling system, he suppose to run the engine, which will ran the cooling liquid pump. He is not showing the bleeding hose, which would show a real stream coming from it, if he would use the proper pump. This is very unfortunate for TH-cam, that along with very good information, you can get a very misleading staff, like this video.
Everyone can ignore this guy, he doesnt know what he is talking about. I can verify with 1st hand experience thepump activated in this video does help burp the engine coolant system.
@@HandfulOfTranquility he has probably never delt with an electric water pump before. cars without them would need you to run the engine as they are belt driven. but things like he suggest having a real stream of coolant come back out the bleder valve would be useless once coolant comes out of it and its not having air bubbles it has in a sense bleed what air bubbles are near it. the reason it did bleed more once he started it is the engine got up to temp and opened up the thermos to bleed the rest of the system behind it.
On a Prius the two coolant pumps are electric and do not require the engine runnng to pump. Same goes for the power steering, the ac compressor and even the power brakes.
@@rj.parker A gen 2 Prius has 4 water pumps. The main engine water pump is belt-driven. The inverter has an electric pump, then there's the aux/heater electric pump and finally there's the CHS electric pump he's running in the video.
Hello. I am trying to change my coolant. What info don't hear the pump after inserting the multimeter? Does it mean the pump is not good? I have current in the relay outlet. Thx
I have heard a reading of 2-3 amps means bubbles are still present. Note you need to have a multimeter that can measure 10 Amps (not mA). If you don't have the 10 Amp feature, you can use a wire to short the terminals. When I placed the multimeter in mA mode, I measured .003 (erroneous reading) and the pump did not run. When I placed the multimeter in 10 Amp mode, the pump ran, and at first I measured fluctuations between 2-3 Amps. Place the car into the accessories mode by pressing Start twice (without pressing the Brake). Connect the multimeter in the 10 Amp mode and run the motor for 15-20 seconds at a time while allowing the pump to rest a minute or two between runs (repeat 6 times). When the car is in the accessories mode, I measured about 3.94 amps. When not the car is off, I measured about 4.09 amps.
nicely done ..thanks for posting.
I curious as to how you drain the fluid from the overflow in the white container? I would think you want to drain and refill that as well?
+Bob Waller i think it is so easy just use vaccum and small tub , to stick all the way to the bottom to suck it dry , or take it out and empty it if you have the access
I am thinking of doing this tomorrow, I bought 2 gallons of coolant, is that enough to fill engine coolant and inverter coolant?
you probably already ran into it but if you get everthing out of the engine depending on the model it could need 1.9+- gallons just for it. but that only happens if your doing a flush to get into the heater core. otherwise you will use about 1.5 for the ICE and 2 ish qts for the inverter. you probably have already ran into it but you may have ended up a little short on coolant if you filled the inverter to full and the over flow bottle for the ICE to between full and low it would take a little more then 2
Love your ratchet, what is the manufacturer and do you remember where did you get it? Thank you for your wonderful video :)
I know this is from over 4 years ago but does anyone know if you should also have the climate system on High Temp and Fan speed 100% to flush the heater core as well when the engine is running. I bought my car used and this past winter I would hear gurgling from the heater core area when the heater was on.
its a good idea once the car reaches temp it should open up the heater core. its also a good idea if your going to do this to do a flush threw the system with distilled water if your going to change coolant types like he did here. and if its a prius cranking the heater on is also a good way to keep the engine running and removing bubbles if any are deeper in the system
Hello my coolant is full but the multimeter read 2.0 is the ok?
I have heard a reading of 2-3 amps means bubbles are still present. Note you need to have a multimeter that can measure 10 Amps (not mA). If you don't have the 10 Amp feature, you can use a wire to short the terminals. When I placed the multimeter in mA mode, I measured .003 (erroneous reading) and the pump did not run. When I placed the multimeter in 10 Amp mode, the pump ran, and at first I measured fluctuations between 2-3 Amps. Place the car into the accessories mode by pressing Start twice (without pressing the Brake). Connect the multimeter in the 10 Amp mode and run the motor for 15-20 seconds at a time while allowing the pump to rest a minute or two between runs (repeat 6 times). When the car is in the accessories mode, I measured about 3.94 amps. When not the car is off, I measured about 4.09 amps.
P 1118 problem eror?
is this the same fluid you use for the power inverter as well?
Yes
Yes
HELLO. how much coolant goes into inverter and engine? thanks in advances
I filled the inverter coolant reserve bottle which took about twice the amount you see in the bottle (to fill attached hoses). I connected a transparent hose from a bleeder nob located at the front of the inverter and fed it into the top of the inverter coolant reserve bottle. I loosed the nob a few turns. I turned on the car utilities by pressing the start button twice (without pressing the brake). I could hear the coolant pump running but the fluid level in the bottle did not change. After about 5 minutes, the fluid level suddenly dropped to the bottom of the bottle. I filled the bottle once more and topped it off a bit. Once the air bubbles have been bled out, you can close the bleed nob and remove the hose. I did not measure the amount of coolant but I'm guessing about 1/2 gallon. People have been saying it takes about 1.5 gallons of coolant for both the inverter and ICE engine.
Hello, I am in the same boat as Zenainder. I have have tried two of my friends multimeters and I bought a new one for myself, so three in all. I have hooked everything up as you did: Black in the COM, Red in the 10amp. I turned the dial to the 10 amp setting. I put the red in the top of where the relay goes and the black, just below it. Nothing, nodda. You never mentioned if you had the key in the ignition and or whether the car was turned on or if the start button was hit twice. I have tried it every way (key not in, key in, key in and the start button hit twice, car on and I keep getting the same result, nothing. The multimeter doesn't come off of zeros. In the video, it looks like the red is in a setting that has a number that reds more than 10amp. Does anyone out there know why it worked for reedjasond, but not for Zenainder or myself? My Prius is a 2007. I have checked all the fuses and non are blown. I would appreciate any imput. I have gotten a hair less than a gallon to go back in, it won't take anymore, yet more than a gallon came out. I need to get the rest of the air bubbles out. Your waterpump tricked worked great, I need the same thing. Also, I tried the wire trick, that didn't work either. Thanks all. Shane
55shane55 my multimeter wasn't working either then realized I had to move the red to 10A and then it worked fine.
So how different is this on a 1st gen? 2002 to be exact
i have a 1st gen 2002 and they are slightly different, but with care i managed to figure it out +(mine is a RH drive here in NEW Zealand) and all the stuff is on the other side of the car, this is a great tutorial video and top marks to this man for posting it
Well done, thanks!
Hopefully this helped bleed my system after changing the inverter coolant valve.
No matter what gotta got to the damb bleeder valve 😢
I dont understand why this guy just doesnt keep pouring more coolant as it goes down while the pump is running.
geat video thx!
Very cool!
Where os the tube connected to how come u dont show that the most important part
It's in his Part 1 video about mid way into the video.
When he finally ran the engine, he did not open the bleeding valve wide enough, so the liquid would really ran trough the tube.
1000 subs.
With distilled water? Just kidding.