This is really cool! I feel like this will become the future. It's crazy how advanced these machines are yet you still have to compile firmware. It's a major roadblock for anyone new to it and I believe it turns alot of people away. This is a major game changer
This exact board is no longer being made but there is a similar one now available. The info is in the description. I've been very happy with it overall and I'm actually still using it. I've been told that the firmware has improved since my review but I haven't had the desire to upgrade mine. Thanks for the question!
This is my obligatory post where I will post updates, clarifications, and corrections. Helpful hint: If this video seems too long, check out the "Playback speed" by clicking on the little gear on the bottom right of the video. Enjoy! I totally missed that without UART being enabled by default on the 2208/2208 from Lerdge, the reference voltages are way too high and your motors will run really hot (and loud). This spec sheet has the magic formula which amounts to I = 0.88 * Vref. This means we need to turn them way down from what appears to be the default of 1.25 V which is 1.1 A to 0.68 V for .6 A. If we go by my previous installs: X: 0.65 A = 0.739 V Y: 0.8 A = 0.909 V Z: 0.65 A = 0.739 V E: 0.8 A = 0.909 V If you're not sure how to do this here's a previous video that shows the process: th-cam.com/video/cAI0H4e6Usg/w-d-xo.html I'll release a separate video on this soon which will also include how to set up UART. For more information: www.lerdge.com/public/upload/file/360f824755ab521bd741a67994b1de7e.pdf
@@michaelpauli734 The TMC2209 steppe drivers can use stealth chop and will make it silent. My ender 5 plus made a lot of noise, now the only real noise I hear is when it retracts and the fans.
Wow, great video on a great upgrade. This type of board is exactly what I want to see in the upgrade space. Further videos on how to really take advantage of this beast would be fantastic.
Immediately I love that all the important connectors are clearly labeled directly on the board! BTW, never solder power cables unless they're very low voltage and amps, instead crimp them. Solder tin can break and cause micro-arcs which can cause a fire in the long run.
@@kerseyfabs Here's a good tutorial with 6 different way to do it hobbyhoarder.net/how-to-connect-small-wires/ I prefer crimping pins on them to connect them using push-in wire connectors. However quick splice connectors are the absolute fastest way. If you're still gonna solder them, just make sure a maximum number of strands make contact with each other: they need to be tightly intertwined. The solder should only be there to hold them together, not to conduct electricity, meaning there shouldn't be a thick layer of solder between the two cables (which is what happens when cables are laid next to each other and then "glued" together with solder tin).
Excellent quality on these videos, I expected to see you have many more subscribers than you have. Amazing attention to detail and quality editing. Thanks for you hard work!
I just installed a lerdge z in my ender 5 plus,I couldn't get a k board then,and im still working the kinks out,your video helped alot. I missed the part about filament sensor wires being backwards last night and got a puff of smoke when the wire got hot,I unplugged it quick and it seems to still be ok after swapping pins and plugging back in. I also was stumped over the two wire limit switch plugs and the three wire sockets on the board,till I saw you plug them in, just on the right two pins,I would have never thought of that!!I got the bl touch to turn on and probe twice when the system powers on the first time with no issue,so I think it's right. I'm waiting on a new belt for my y axis before I can test it further. I used the massive Mosfet they included as well.. I have never done anything this involved and your video helped immensely,!! I saw below you put a obligatory post stating the motors might run hot??? And the vrefs might need to be adjusted? Do I need to do this with tmc2209's on a lerdge z board??
As always, excellent video and suggestions. Please do a video touching on the WiFi and installing Marlin on this board. I am very interested in seeing how well it handles Marlin and if the performance is comparable. Thanks for doing such an excellent presentation on this install and testing of this board and screen set-up. Cheers
Thank you it is great to find a board upgrade that we don’t have to fight throughout compiling firmware. I will order one and try to sell that 1.4 turbo junk
@@kerseyfabs took a bit of finding out with some of it functions but all is good now. and prints way better now than it did with the tronxy mainboard and being to adjust things that i could never do with the tronxy set up.
This was another very well done video. While I think it's cool that there are manufacturers doing different firmware, I'd hesitate to use anything other than Marlin simply because there's so much documentation and help available. If I'm having trouble with something, it's almost certain that somebody out there knows the answer. Not so much with something like this.
Another very informative video Kris. Thank you. I have found all the ender 5plus videos helpful and about to update with the Lerdge K, just getting the final $ together, as I'm getting a raspberry pi first. The only thing that could change my mind at this stage is the btt skr pro 1.2, I've heard it is pretty solid. I am looking forward to your review of that board. Keep up the great work !!
Hot damn I just ordered an ender 5 plus for my first 3D printer and was thinking hey this would be a good upgrade instead of a normal silent board upgrade. Once you started going through the settings though I lost confidence in my ability to understand all of that and get it done properly. Dang it. Looks like a nice upgrade
Congrats on the new printer! I'll be releasing a new loadable config file for the Ender 5 Plus soon. I obviously can't support everyone individually on this but I do try to make it easy!
@@kerseyfabs oh you definitely make it easy enough and I was going to give it a go anyway and just take my time getting it right. But they are all sold out at the moment so I might have to look into one of the other options you showcased on the channel. Thanks for the help brother!
Thank you for this video and the Lerge TMC2209 video, having had 3 BTT SKR 1.4T's that have failed, two not working from new, I needed an alternative. The Lerdge-K seems fits the bill perfectly after seeing your videos, excellent!
Just waiting to get a new ender 5 plus ill be trying this board my old ender 5 plus when out the window was so sick and tired of trying to get the btt 1.4 turbo to work. Great video this seems a lot better then btt boards. Keep up the good work.
So, nothing the first time, meaning no screen report. I checked a connection on the board going from a filament sensor to the board and discovered it was very hot. So I turned the board off, pulled the connector off it, and then turned the board on again. Success! Now I have to figure out what I got wrong with the filament sensor wiring.
As an FYI to everyone , the stl does not fit with the current version . The adjust knob and buzzer have moved, also the mounting holes on the right side of the lcd mount have moved.
@@kerseyfabs I do, I bought the kit that came with all accessories. the Wifi module now has a hole extended out to be inline with the motherboard hole.
Nice video Kris! I've enjoyed following your journey with the Ender5 Plus. I've used many of your upgrades on my own Ender 5 Plus. Question regarding the Octoprint print quality issue . . . . did you happen to try some post processing of the GCode using Arc Welder? It helps significantly with some of the issues you experienced.
Thanks Scott! I'd love to try arc welder and will plan to check it out in the future. I did verify that Lerdge does have Arc support, so that's a good idea!
Getting the ender 3 v2 with mosquito hotend.... Would you recommend going with this board, Using stock board with a raspi4 with Octaprint, or going with duet 3 board?
Right now I can't fully recommend this board if you plan to use OctoPrint. I hope they will have the bugs I found fixed soon. So, if you plan to make a purchase soon, go Duet.
@@kerseyfabs Is it "better" to go with a duet 3 (could be hooked with raspberry pi 4) or is the new ender 3 v2 board with raspberry pi 4 pretty much same?
Seems like a well thought out board, except the missing USB for octoprint. To me, the biggest drawback is the closed source firmware. I lived through 2 closed source printers, and do not intend to do it again. Great review. Thanks
After I upload your configuration files and when I open page 2/2 on the Auto Leveling Setting, the buzzer sounds continually until I change the Probe Wiring Mode to N-O . Why on N-C it beeping? Is my wiring for BL Touch is wrong. I follow your wire coloring and polarity on the video.
After a few extruder crasher to the bed, I got it fixed I think. The black/wire wire on your video is correct. Is my fault the pin not all the way seated, that's is why when N-C it make beeping sound. When I recorrected the pin connection, it works. Now I have to work on the offsets. What is your off setting for the OEM Extruder/BL Touch for Ender Plus?
I figured it out the reason it keep making beeping because the black/white pin not connected properly and cause N-O circuit and thus the beeper sounds.
Thank you Kersey! This board would be so much easier getting up and running a dual hotend! I have had so many issues to get it up and running nicely on marlin.
I also wanted to add that your detail on this video is absolutely perfect when It comes to wiring and setting up vs your previous videos, regarding bltouch wiring generations, direction of color of wiring, especially to get that bltouch working. (I have had so many issues to get that thing to work on my ender 5 plus)
@@kerseyfabs I was thinking, have you tried the arc welder plug-in for cura and octoprint to see if there would be a difference in quality in the prints and could solve the issue with octoprint?
Just curious after having this board and screen for a couple months now , what are your thoughts on it and out of all the boards you have tested in your Ender 5 plus , whats your go to board ? Thanks for all your hard work making some of the best 3d printer videos on YT.
Pity about those problems with usb communication. Some people claimed it has improved when they used extremely short cable. I don't understand why the usb port is not directly on the board? Octoprint+Lerdge looked like an ideal combination for me. I heard about Ledge a long time ago but now I realize the fact that you can change everything on the fly has a huge advantage over marlin.
Hi bro,... I tried to change this board on my Ender5 Plus... I have connected all wirings, all is on (board,BLTouch,fillament detection... ), but display is still off :/ and...I dont know why :((((((( PLS help me ...
For direct help, you'll have to him me up via DM on another social platform. The comments will be too cumbersome for a back and forth. I'll be happy to do what I can though.
PID!!!!! I'm getting this for that feature. Our bed is warping and the PID control of the bed looks to be the solution. However, our current board will NOT allow for changes. (maybe a knock-off). Going to take a chance and order the board. I'm a Mechanical Engineer, not a software geek. Marlin has proven to be an absolute nightmare. Should have done the PID as part of this video.
Took the plunge and purchased the Lerdge K upgrade kit, direct from their online store. Have to say very impressed with the quality and the documentation. Today was the day, I had printed every thing ready. This evening I have ran a test xyz cube, with no visible issues at all. Just need a bit of time to test retraction setting and bits. I did do the PID tune that was easy, but would like to see a follow up video. showing the technique to auto level, and set z offset. With the 2 drivers for the zaxis will left to right bed leveling be automatic? 1 thing that has changed the TFT screen is now a version 2 and your case no long fits this model, the jog knob has been moved more central to the PCB, and the fixing holes have different locations. must be pretty new as I have not found and cases that fit this new style yet. Q. is there any way to fine tune the z-offset while printing? or did i miss something in leveling? thanks for your great support
Install the Arc-Welder OctoPrint plug-in and a lot if not all your issues will likely go away. Just verify the lerdge board supports the arc gcode commands first of course.
I just installed the Lerdge K Board and followed your settings for now, but if i set the z offset it won't work properly. It seems like it doesn't use the value that i entered... Any Idea what the Problem is
What I don't understand is why you set the endstop wiring mode to N-C? Based on the diagram I saw of the Lerdge Board, all three of my physical endstops are Middle Wire / Normal Open, and Botton Wire / Closed? Am I write? I wish you'd reply back on the question because this was a real mess of discussion when I was trying to install the world's most expensive riprap board.
Thank you for the video. I am considering this modification on my Ender 5 plus and was wondering if the new Lerdge Z board addressed the issue with Octoprint? Too bad they stripped several standard features off the K and called it the Z. Now you have to purchase more add-ons to get the functionality of the older board.
I am using prusaslicer. apparently you can select the firmware being used. lerdge is not an option, so what should I choose? mainly want to be able to adjust the linear advance value
Question, your link now goest to btt 2209 v1.2. They look different. Will these still work on the lerdge k board? If so any info if I need to do anything different?
Love your videos! So glad I found your channel. I ordered my Ender 5 Plus from Tiny Machines. Can't wait to get it. What is the case you used for your Raspberry Pi? I have a Raspberry Pi 3b+. Did you print that using PLA or PETG?
Hey Kris, I am having issues homing the z-axis. The BL touch tests normal, but when I try to home z, the bed does not stop when it comes in contact with the BL touch probe. I've been troubleshooting this for days, and I am getting nowhere. Any advice is appreciated! Thanks!
Thanks Master Kersey :-) I like all your work. and on this one I Like The Music. Groetjes uit Holland Ordered this set after watching this movie. :-) Also 3 order out at Creality, after 30 days still nothing received. Got an order wrong what I didn't order.
You don't have to use their steppers right? I can use bigtreetech or mks 2209 or whatever ? I got the board but passed on steppers since it was like 40 dollars extra when i have like 10 2209 ,12 2208 and a bunch 2225
Hi, i have a question, how does the printer know that the hot end has moved for example 100 mm in the z axis?, or any other axis x and y? How does it do its calculations? Thx.
ok bought and installed everything, having small issues,, one is getting the pt100 thermistor working correctly, second issue as soon as you hit home it wont stop going to the top, grinding hard and its only on the left side mostly
Sorry to hear about your problems. Unfortunately I don't have a PT100 for testing but I do remember seeing that option in the menus. If it doesn't work, I'd contact Lerdge. For the Z issues, I'd double check your BLtouch wiring and settings.
@@kerseyfabs ty so much for your help, I have the worse luck, the pt100 works fine after trying it without the booster, apparently lerdge k has onboard support, simply hook it up like any other thermistor and set it on pt100. now after fixing that, both extruders jut stopped working, tested by switching the drivers around and they still wont work.. sorry to bother yas lol,,,,,,,,,my luck with 3d printers suck, from the factory board to the lerdge k. I hope to print something some day lol
Like the video I have the same board I installed on my ender 5plus but I haven't got it dialed in yet do you have or do you plan on putting out a follow up video from start to finish on the actual setup and settings and leveling that work for you to get it printing well ?
Could you have used both, the BL-TOUCH and an END STOP? I ask because the END STOP seams to generally give more repeatable reliable Z-positioning. What I'd like to do is dedicate the SENSOR only for BED LEVELING and the END STOP for homing. I'm using ARDUINO and an MKS G1.4 BOARD now, but don't know how or if it can be coded that way?
Hopefully you can help, I screwed up and run the wireless module update and run it normal though the screen. Now on startup it immediately go to blue screen, Lerdge Z Bootloader Mode. Now I'm stuck, any advice? Jack
I watched this video before i got a End5+. I wish id gone this way with my upgrade as the BTT MiniE3V3 i brought since turns out to be flashed for Ender 3 and even your firmware wont touch it.
Thank you for the videos. You've been a wonderful asset to my world of the Ender 5 plus. Just wondering, what is your total cost in upgrades so far with this printer?
I'm happy I can help! My printer is always in flux because of the channel. One day I hope to have a "master Ender 5 Plus" with my favorite upgrades. Honestly, at any given time, I'm guessing it's not more than a few hundred dollars. That would include a new mainboard and display, new hotend, and new motion as well as odds and ends.
@@kerseyfabs thank you so much for responding. I really appreciate it. I purchased my ender-5 used off of eBay and it was pretty wrecked up. But after following your videos, I am excited about the future of it. Do you have any outlook on maybe building an enclosure for it? I'm hoping to be able to do that soon. I was going to build out of wood, but now wood is more expensive than glass and steel right now so I think I'm going to go that route. Thanks again for all you do. Your vision and your channel are both amazing. Keep up the great work. I look forward to seeing your next videos. Have a great day.
@@adamflight1 You're very kind Adam. Thank you! If I were going to build an enclosure, I'd build it out of plexiglass and aluminum extrusions. It would look amazing and be relatively cheap and easy. If I wanted it to be more thermally insulating, I'd probably get some sheet aluminum and put insulation on the side panels. I hope this helps. Maybe I'll do a future build but it won't be soon. Too much on the plate.
Kris, I have just finished installing the Lerdge-Z board in my ender-5 plus, I have the homing working correctly, it goes to the back right, and the BL-touch works fine. When I went to run the first print, the print head came to the center, then went back to the home corner and started extruding. Did you have to change anything in the slicer, from the standard Cura profile for the E5P? Thanks
I need help. Follow your video installed the board just fine but the z axis try push up the extruder and the BL touch do not stop it. What do I do wrong? I need to reverse the Z axis motor direction also than the video. When Z+ press on the screen does the bed suppose to go up or down? Because if I follow your video direction the Auto Level probe test about 10 inches above the bed. What is my first step to test the BL touch work correctly?
1) It sounds like your black/white BLtouch is not wired correctly. Double check that one. 2) Z+ should bring the bed down because you are increasing the Z height.
@@kerseyfabs 1) I try flip the black and white wires (Opposite than your video) and now when I go to Auti Leveling Setting Probe Wiring Mode NC it does not beep any longer. 2) The Z+ now move the bed down same as your video, just to confirm. Now when I do the Z axis home, the BL Touch turns to blue (red off) and the probe is down. But when it reaches the BL touch it does NOT stop and the nozzle crash to the bed. I have to do emergency power off. What is the problem why the BL touch does not stop the Z motor? What setting do I need to change, is the probe wiring need to be N-O?
Thanks KF, got all to works now but I still have one questions on the stock BL Touch and Extruder mounting what is the Off set values and how to measure it correctly? You mention the Z axis need to be -3 but +3 seem to work also?? Why?
Love all your videos, super helpful and informative. I ended up buying the lerdge kit, but it came with the LCD V2.1 and it does not fit in the case you shared files of in this video. Would anyone know where I could find the files to print the case out for the V2.1?
If I understand correctly the unique selling point of this board is that it runs plug and play, due to using its own custom firmware, without having to compile stuff. So obviously I would be interested in hearing more about the features in that, and if they work well (for improving print quality). From the top of my head, how well does linear advance work, does it support dual z leveling, probe grid size. Generally speaking: How does this board+firmware compare feature-wise to stock ender 5 plus, and a custom marlin on a BTT board. And of course I'm interested in uart mode, and what that could do for me, driver-wise.
I Just want to make sure will the ender 5 + board mount directly into a gen 1 CR-10? Reason I'm asking is cause my idea is if that main board does fit then your mount will also work for my printer.
I have just purchased the board and screen for my ender 5 plus. Is there some settings for the bl touch on the stok hot end? I can't seem to find anything
hi, thank you for the great vids, may I ask how long does it take to upgrade the board?! mine is stuck for a long time on a blue screen that says "checking the system UI please wait!" update version 4.3.6.1, thanks in advance
Been watching the videos And they are great. Just want to ask is that Raspberry pi case mounted to the frame? Been trying to find a case that is mountable to the frame. Thanks!
I enyoid your video and it helps me a lot but on my Creality Ender 5 printer a significant problem arised and i am stuck to solve it When i Home the Hotend bumbes on to the Endstops then I want to make a Testprint and the Hotend bump on the Endstop then again and then it jams on the Endstops and the printer is screaming what is the reason?I forgot to mention I have a Lerdge K board
Main reason I will not ever use octoprint, even though I would love to be able to send gcode and do everything remotely (on my Ender 5) but the slow down is a problem I see people talking about a lot with higher definition models that take more data to produce. This is the reason I think people see improvements with using Arc Welder since it reduces the gcode required by a TON on certain models. Would love to see a huge/high-res model compared with and without octoprint and then with arc welder included. I love the ability to do things direct on the mainboard without having to recompile Marlin (ugh)! I wonder how many limitations there are though. Basically, what settings are not included that someone who is a little more involved with micro-managing settings and/or adding hardware and options (like yourself with what you do reviewing and constantly adding or changing parts). Excellent video as normal (I am catching up....hopefully lol)!
OctoPrint can be a problem sometimes if you have certain plug-ins installed or if your board's firmware isn't configured to handle a lot of data over USB. I go back and forth between using it to print. Either way though, I can use it to monitor printing, even if I'm printing from SD.
@@kerseyfabs You know, I never thought about that! I am an idiot but I didn't realize I was this bad LOL You don't HAVE to use it to print from just to monitor....Ok, now I might actually get the stuff to build one of these puppies. I don't know why I was thinking if you don't run the stl from it you can't monitor anything... Thanx for the info man!
Hello eveyone, for anyone who follows the video on installing the mother board pls be aware that when he instructs you to swap the red and yellow on the run out/ break sensor wire when I did this it cause my mother board to heat up so I had to swap it back to get it to work if left the other way it would lead to a electric fire
@@kerseyfabs So to add to this, I forgot to swap my red and yellow even tho i had it wrote down to check.. When I did a filament change my printer turn off(crashed). I did the wire swap now it works fine. As long as the switch is closed you would get 5v to signal either way(swapped or not), with it reversed and the switch opened I would have grounded the signal wire. I think the video is correct.
this sounds cool, but if your going to do this, just go TH3D, USA support and some of the best support you will ever see in the 3d printing market, they went above and beyond for me with fixing issues I had even though it was out of warranty.
Kris when you did the Marlin 2.0 on an Ender 8-bit board video to show the slow processing you visualised this by printing the Batman model, can you do a video on Arc Welder and see if this can solve the bad Batman quality?
you rekon this would be a simple enough thing to do if you were going straight from default main board to this? seems like for the most part it's plug-and-play other than some configuration stuff and swapping one or two pins. I'd also like the thank you for making this series on the ender 5 plus. seems no-one else out there has made any worthwhile videos on this printer and no one really seems to know about it. when i finally get around to getting mine i've already decided that im going to get an exo-slide kit at the same time thanks to the video you made of them, and your fixes for the BL-touch seems easy enough to do.
I think this is a good board upgrade for those not interested in Marlin. I hope to receive a fix on the OctoPrint issue. I'm glad you're enjoying the content. Thanks for watching!
The board changed on the Lerdge Z and I fried my BL Touch can I have a wiring diagram for the Z Board please on Ender 5 plus. And your channel is awesome, just can’t find anything on the Z board! Thanks
Will this setup fix the 2 most nagging faults with what should be a great printer. I, the dreaded warped bed the BLtouch makes a nice consistent mesh, but Marlin v1.7 (even your compiled firmware) never seems to read it properly. I resort on big prints to use a raft. 2 marlin v1.7 does not read long file names, which is a pain when you want to save great prints with basic design info for my own back catalogue. Great video again must sort myself to get on the patriot list.
I am getting the board soon about over 1 month from China. I like you to do some video on the touch sensor from lerdge that use circle ring on the hot end. I did order one but not sure hot it works. Also video on replacing the end stop with lerdge using optical switch.
I noticed in your batman bust, the support had some holes in it. I've seen that in the past before-- what is causing this and how do we fix it (if we need?). Is this this related to infill speed?
Yes! I'm still using it for prints big and small without issue. I am looking forward to the next video worth of content to work a few things out but it does work well. The main thing I need to do is get UART mode working. It will help make it quieter and better tune my voltages.
@@kerseyfabs excellent. Is this considered a “silent board”? I’ve got the oem board on my e5+. It’s been driving me bonkers for nearly 6 months. Came across your video on this and it is a much more intriguing upgrade to me compared to the creality silent board
Well, the board itself isn't silent. You'll need to order it with silent stepper drivers. Since it looks like that's all they sell it with, you should be good.
Great job, I'd like to see if Marlin could be put on it. I'm also interested in hearing more about the octoprint issues. I don't think I'd upgrade to a board that didn't have good communication with octoprint.
Octo works flawlessly with Lerdge boards, I have been using them fault free for 4 years now. Marlin has been ported for Lerdge but it doesn't function as nicely as Lerdge FW. In my years of using Lerdge boards, I have NEVER once ever said to myself, gee I wish this was marlin. It is significantly better! Beware of one youtubers opinion regarding a feature like this guy with saying octo deosn't work, it does and it does well!
I ordered the lerdge k via aliexpress with the link as described in your comments. How do i order the usb and wifi module for this board. I do have the Ender 5 3d printer. Thanks for your videos, big thumb up!
@Kersey Fabrications great job on the video. I appreciate the detail you went into with this printer. Is there any chance you will do a video on the ender 6 or know anything about it? I am having an issue and wanted to see if I can get help resolving it.
Спасибо, за отличный обзор, очень помогло определиться с выбором платы. Остановился на lerdge k. Хотя у BTT SKR v1.2 были все шансы, но простота настройки сделала мой выбор.
Bro, your great. I have the regular Ender 5. Can't stand the Cantilever bed. I'm really considering the 5 plus now for the volume, dual z, but mainly because you have an extensive upgrade library of info I can use to make it better. Will you be messing with the Ender 6 in the future?
I ordered a k board for my ender 5 plus. Has anyone used Kersey's config file on the latest board? Just wondering if it works on the latest version. Thanks
![[Устарело] Обзор Lerdge X и Lerdge K после обновления. Linear advance в Lerdge!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4lE7awstEYQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for all the Ender 5 plus videos. I'm new to 3d printing and bought a 5 plus and you have been my go to guy. Thank you.
Glad to help! Happy printing!
yeah the 5 plus has kind of been a pain in the butt compared to other printers
This is really cool! I feel like this will become the future. It's crazy how advanced these machines are yet you still have to compile firmware. It's a major roadblock for anyone new to it and I believe it turns alot of people away. This is a major game changer
I'm still using my board and have been since this video. I may even have an update coming. 😎
@@kerseyfabs I would love to hear your review after a year of use, as I am contemplating this upgrade. This is another great video btw!
This exact board is no longer being made but there is a similar one now available. The info is in the description. I've been very happy with it overall and I'm actually still using it. I've been told that the firmware has improved since my review but I haven't had the desire to upgrade mine. Thanks for the question!
This is my obligatory post where I will post updates, clarifications, and corrections. Helpful hint: If this video seems too long, check out the "Playback speed" by clicking on the little gear on the bottom right of the video. Enjoy!
I totally missed that without UART being enabled by default on the 2208/2208 from Lerdge, the reference voltages are way too high and your motors will run really hot (and loud).
This spec sheet has the magic formula which amounts to I = 0.88 * Vref. This means we need to turn them way down from what appears to be the default of 1.25 V which is 1.1 A to 0.68 V for .6 A.
If we go by my previous installs:
X: 0.65 A = 0.739 V
Y: 0.8 A = 0.909 V
Z: 0.65 A = 0.739 V
E: 0.8 A = 0.909 V
If you're not sure how to do this here's a previous video that shows the process: th-cam.com/video/cAI0H4e6Usg/w-d-xo.html
I'll release a separate video on this soon which will also include how to set up UART.
For more information: www.lerdge.com/public/upload/file/360f824755ab521bd741a67994b1de7e.pdf
Now I was just wondering if this board is a silent board as well. In addition would you say this bad boy increases print quality?
@@michaelpauli734 The TMC2209 steppe drivers can use stealth chop and will make it silent. My ender 5 plus made a lot of noise, now the only real noise I hear is when it retracts and the fans.
@@jumpjet908 what about print quality, will it be increased or no.
Wow, great video on a great upgrade. This type of board is exactly what I want to see in the upgrade space. Further videos on how to really take advantage of this beast would be fantastic.
Thanks, will do!
Just love your channel, especially your ender 5 plus videos! Has been a great help for me, thanks! :)
Thanks! I appreciate that!
I really appreciate your attention to detail, thanks so much for another clear and concise instructional video.
You're very welcome!
Immediately I love that all the important connectors are clearly labeled directly on the board!
BTW, never solder power cables unless they're very low voltage and amps, instead crimp them. Solder tin can break and cause micro-arcs which can cause a fire in the long run.
What's your recommendation for connections like this? I thought about using wire nuts or a terminal but neither seemed quite right.
@@kerseyfabs Here's a good tutorial with 6 different way to do it
hobbyhoarder.net/how-to-connect-small-wires/
I prefer crimping pins on them to connect them using push-in wire connectors. However quick splice connectors are the absolute fastest way.
If you're still gonna solder them, just make sure a maximum number of strands make contact with each other: they need to be tightly intertwined. The solder should only be there to hold them together, not to conduct electricity, meaning there shouldn't be a thick layer of solder between the two cables (which is what happens when cables are laid next to each other and then "glued" together with solder tin).
Thanks Muru! I'll be sure to take a look!
I FINALLY ABLE TO INSTALL THE SKR E3 V3 MINI. THANKS TO THIS VIDEO. THANK YOU SO MUCH !
IN ENDER 5 PLUS .
I'm glad to hear it but this is the Lerdge video. 😆
This is the bees knees!!!! Thank you for this....... ordering now. Can´t wait for the updates! Wifi etc.
Awesome! I hope it works well for you!
@@kerseyfabs Arrived today! Now I´ll have to find time to install. Do you have any updates? Wifi etc.
Working..........................
My printer has never been so quiet! GREAT.
Very happy with this
Is there a WIFI vid. coming
@@kerseyfabs Have you set up the Linear advance on the K board yet?
@@crazytrutas No, I haven't really had a need to. My speeds, acceleration, and jerk are pretty conservative.
Another great video! Thanks, Kris.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent quality on these videos, I expected to see you have many more subscribers than you have. Amazing attention to detail and quality editing. Thanks for you hard work!
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching!
I just installed a lerdge z in my ender 5 plus,I couldn't get a k board then,and im still working the kinks out,your video helped alot. I missed the part about filament sensor wires being backwards last night and got a puff of smoke when the wire got hot,I unplugged it quick and it seems to still be ok after swapping pins and plugging back in. I also was stumped over the two wire limit switch plugs and the three wire sockets on the board,till I saw you plug them in, just on the right two pins,I would have never thought of that!!I got the bl touch to turn on and probe twice when the system powers on the first time with no issue,so I think it's right. I'm waiting on a new belt for my y axis before I can test it further. I used the massive Mosfet they included as well.. I have never done anything this involved and your video helped immensely,!! I saw below you put a obligatory post stating the motors might run hot??? And the vrefs might need to be adjusted? Do I need to do this with tmc2209's on a lerdge z board??
As always, excellent video and suggestions. Please do a video touching on the WiFi and installing Marlin on this board. I am very interested in seeing how well it handles Marlin and if the performance is comparable. Thanks for doing such an excellent presentation on this install and testing of this board and screen set-up. Cheers
Thank you it is great to find a board upgrade that we don’t have to fight throughout compiling firmware. I will order one and try to sell that 1.4 turbo junk
fitted my lerdge board in yesterday into my tronxy x5sa and today is tune the settings day.
Awesome! I hope you love it!
@@kerseyfabs took a bit of finding out with some of it functions but all is good now.
and prints way better now than it did with the tronxy mainboard and being to adjust things that i could never do with the tronxy set up.
This was another very well done video. While I think it's cool that there are manufacturers doing different firmware, I'd hesitate to use anything other than Marlin simply because there's so much documentation and help available. If I'm having trouble with something, it's almost certain that somebody out there knows the answer. Not so much with something like this.
I completely understand. Hopefully through further adoption though, it will get more usage and more mature.
Another very informative video Kris. Thank you. I have found all the ender 5plus videos helpful and about to update with the Lerdge K, just getting the final $ together, as I'm getting a raspberry pi first. The only thing that could change my mind at this stage is the btt skr pro 1.2, I've heard it is pretty solid. I am looking forward to your review of that board.
Keep up the great work !!
Hot damn I just ordered an ender 5 plus for my first 3D printer and was thinking hey this would be a good upgrade instead of a normal silent board upgrade. Once you started going through the settings though I lost confidence in my ability to understand all of that and get it done properly. Dang it. Looks like a nice upgrade
Congrats on the new printer! I'll be releasing a new loadable config file for the Ender 5 Plus soon. I obviously can't support everyone individually on this but I do try to make it easy!
@@kerseyfabs oh you definitely make it easy enough and I was going to give it a go anyway and just take my time getting it right. But they are all sold out at the moment so I might have to look into one of the other options you showcased on the channel. Thanks for the help brother!
Super video! I applauded for $5.00 👏👏
Thank you!
this setup looks so super easy....
Thank you for this video and the Lerge TMC2209 video, having had 3 BTT SKR 1.4T's that have failed, two not working from new, I needed an alternative. The Lerdge-K seems fits the bill perfectly after seeing your videos, excellent!
Glad it helped! Sorry about your BTT experience. I have yet to kill any of their boards so far.
I love this board. It's so easy to use.
Just waiting to get a new ender 5 plus ill be trying this board my old ender 5 plus when out the window was so sick and tired of trying to get the btt 1.4 turbo to work.
Great video this seems a lot better then btt boards.
Keep up the good work.
Sorry to hear about your BTT problems. I hope this is the solution you're looking for. Thanks!
Men you hooked me up to this, will be ordering this for my JGAroura
My experience with this board has been terrific. I will be showing a new photo/video on my socials later this evening of my latest print!
speaking of the heat sinks. anodized aluminimum isnt conductive so you should not be too worried about shorting the pins.
Fantastic video, just what I signed up to!!
Thanks for sharing your knoll age with all of us :-)
My pleasure!
So, nothing the first time, meaning no screen report. I checked a connection on the board going from a filament sensor to the board and discovered it was very hot. So I turned the board off, pulled the connector off it, and then turned the board on again. Success! Now I have to figure out what I got wrong with the filament sensor wiring.
As an FYI to everyone , the stl does not fit with the current version . The adjust knob and buzzer have moved, also the mounting holes on the right side of the lcd mount have moved.
That sucks! I don't have the new screen to fix my model. I wonder if someone else has?
@@kerseyfabs I do, I bought the kit that came with all accessories. the Wifi module now has a hole extended out to be inline with the motherboard hole.
@@kerseyfabs Its a V2 motherboard now and the diagram for it doesnt show the wire colours. I am just hoping the old diagram is still correct.
Nice video Kris! I've enjoyed following your journey with the Ender5 Plus. I've used many of your upgrades on my own Ender 5 Plus. Question regarding the Octoprint print quality issue . . . . did you happen to try some post processing of the GCode using Arc Welder? It helps significantly with some of the issues you experienced.
Thanks Scott! I'd love to try arc welder and will plan to check it out in the future. I did verify that Lerdge does have Arc support, so that's a good idea!
Awesome review. Just bought one! Hope to see the deep dive video if you make one!!!
Thanks! Will do!
Getting the ender 3 v2 with mosquito hotend.... Would you recommend going with this board, Using stock board with a raspi4 with Octaprint, or going with duet 3 board?
Right now I can't fully recommend this board if you plan to use OctoPrint. I hope they will have the bugs I found fixed soon. So, if you plan to make a purchase soon, go Duet.
@@kerseyfabs Is it "better" to go with a duet 3 (could be hooked with raspberry pi 4) or is the new ender 3 v2 board with raspberry pi 4 pretty much same?
Seems like a well thought out board, except the missing USB for octoprint. To me, the biggest drawback is the closed source firmware. I lived through 2 closed source printers, and do not intend to do it again. Great review. Thanks
They do a usb add on and it’s quite cheap, I use mine with repetier-server and have no issues through the usb
After I upload your configuration files and when I open page 2/2 on the Auto Leveling Setting, the buzzer sounds continually until I change the Probe Wiring Mode to N-O . Why on N-C it beeping? Is my wiring for BL Touch is wrong. I follow your wire coloring and polarity on the video.
I'm not sure why it would be doing that unless your BLTouch has an error currently and needs to be reset. Were your wires the same color as mine?
@@kerseyfabs The Black and White, Orange, Brown and Red wires.
After a few extruder crasher to the bed, I got it fixed I think. The black/wire wire on your video is correct. Is my fault the pin not all the way seated, that's is why when N-C it make beeping sound. When I recorrected the pin connection, it works. Now I have to work on the offsets. What is your off setting for the OEM Extruder/BL Touch for Ender Plus?
I figured it out the reason it keep making beeping because the black/white pin not connected properly and cause N-O circuit and thus the beeper sounds.
great video thank you
Glad it was helpful! I'm loving their new printer too!
Thank you Kersey! This board would be so much easier getting up and running a dual hotend! I have had so many issues to get it up and running nicely on marlin.
I also wanted to add that your detail on this video is absolutely perfect when It comes to wiring and setting up vs your previous videos, regarding bltouch wiring generations, direction of color of wiring, especially to get that bltouch working. (I have had so many issues to get that thing to work on my ender 5 plus)
Thank you for the feedback! I hope this is much easier for people and provides a good alternative.
@@kerseyfabs I was thinking, have you tried the arc welder plug-in for cura and octoprint to see if there would be a difference in quality in the prints and could solve the issue with octoprint?
No, not yet but I have had a lot of people suggesting it, so I will.
Just curious after having this board and screen for a couple months now , what are your thoughts on it and out of all the boards you have tested in your Ender 5 plus , whats your go to board ? Thanks for all your hard work making some of the best 3d printer videos on YT.
this was very helpful building cusom printer and it will make it easyier to configure. thanks kris
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Great walkthrough! Thanks so much
Glad you enjoyed it!
Pity about those problems with usb communication. Some people claimed it has improved when they used extremely short cable. I don't understand why the usb port is not directly on the board? Octoprint+Lerdge looked like an ideal combination for me. I heard about Ledge a long time ago but now I realize the fact that you can change everything on the fly has a huge advantage over marlin.
Great review and instructions. Please do a follow up including UART setup
Will do!
Hi bro,... I tried to change this board on my Ender5 Plus... I have connected all wirings, all is on (board,BLTouch,fillament detection... ), but display is still off :/ and...I dont know why :((((((( PLS help me ...
For direct help, you'll have to him me up via DM on another social platform. The comments will be too cumbersome for a back and forth. I'll be happy to do what I can though.
PID!!!!! I'm getting this for that feature. Our bed is warping and the PID control of the bed looks to be the solution. However, our current board will NOT allow for changes. (maybe a knock-off). Going to take a chance and order the board. I'm a Mechanical Engineer, not a software geek. Marlin has proven to be an absolute nightmare. Should have done the PID as part of this video.
Took the plunge and purchased the Lerdge K upgrade kit, direct from their online store.
Have to say very impressed with the quality and the documentation. Today was the day, I had printed every thing ready. This evening I have ran a test xyz cube, with no visible issues at all. Just need a bit of time to test retraction setting and bits.
I did do the PID tune that was easy, but would like to see a follow up video. showing the technique to auto level, and set z offset. With the 2 drivers for the zaxis will left to right bed leveling be automatic?
1 thing that has changed the TFT screen is now a version 2 and your case no long fits this model, the jog knob has been moved more central to the PCB, and the fixing holes have different locations. must be pretty new as I have not found and cases that fit this new style yet.
Q. is there any way to fine tune the z-offset while printing? or did i miss something in leveling?
thanks for your great support
What was the extrusion rate when printing on the printing screen. I had to put it at 450 is that correct 🤔. Its the only way I can get it to print.
Install the Arc-Welder OctoPrint plug-in and a lot if not all your issues will likely go away. Just verify the lerdge board supports the arc gcode commands first of course.
I just installed the Lerdge K Board and followed your settings for now, but if i set the z offset it won't work properly. It seems like it doesn't use the value that i entered... Any Idea what the Problem is
What I don't understand is why you set the endstop wiring mode to N-C? Based on the diagram I saw of the Lerdge Board, all three of my physical endstops are Middle Wire / Normal Open, and Botton Wire / Closed? Am I write? I wish you'd reply back on the question because this was a real mess of discussion when I was trying to install the world's most expensive riprap board.
Thank you for the video. I am considering this modification on my Ender 5 plus and was wondering if the new Lerdge Z board addressed the issue with Octoprint? Too bad they stripped several standard features off the K and called it the Z. Now you have to purchase more add-ons to get the functionality of the older board.
From what I've heard, they fixed the OctoPrint issues a while ago. I haven't confirmed this myself but it's what I've been told.
I am using prusaslicer. apparently you can select the firmware being used. lerdge is not an option, so what should I choose? mainly want to be able to adjust the linear advance value
In Cura, I select Marlin still. It may not be 100% compatible but I haven't run across any issues.
Question, your link now goest to btt 2209 v1.2. They look different. Will these still work on the lerdge k board? If so any info if I need to do anything different?
I have another video on setting up the stepper drivers. Check this out: th-cam.com/video/aLxvXGPD2ZA/w-d-xo.html
Love your videos! So glad I found your channel. I ordered my Ender 5 Plus from Tiny Machines. Can't wait to get it.
What is the case you used for your Raspberry Pi? I have a Raspberry Pi 3b+. Did you print that using PLA or PETG?
Hey Kris, I am having issues homing the z-axis. The BL touch tests normal, but when I try to home z, the bed does not stop when it comes in contact with the BL touch probe. I've been troubleshooting this for days, and I am getting nowhere. Any advice is appreciated! Thanks!
is that yellow box on the right vertical leg with the roundish triangular vents a raspberry pi set up with octoprint?
Yep! www.thingiverse.com/thing:922740
Be interested to see your high speed Octoprint test results with either the Cura Arc Welder plugin or the Octoprint Arc Welder plugin.
It's officially on the list!
Thanks Master Kersey :-) I like all your work. and on this one I Like The Music. Groetjes uit Holland
Ordered this set after watching this movie. :-)
Also 3 order out at Creality, after 30 days still nothing received. Got an order wrong what I didn't order.
I really appreciate that! I need to visit Holland!
You don't have to use their steppers right? I can use bigtreetech or mks 2209 or whatever ? I got the board but passed on steppers since it was like 40 dollars extra when i have like 10 2209 ,12 2208 and a bunch 2225
I actually haven't checked the pinout to see if they're the same. I'll see if I can find time to do that.
My 3D Touch doesn't stop the bed. I've changed everything I could for the auto level settings as well nothing has fixed it
Hi, i have a question, how does the printer know that the hot end has moved for example 100 mm in the z axis?, or any other axis x and y? How does it do its calculations? Thx.
ok bought and installed everything, having small issues,, one is getting the pt100 thermistor working correctly, second issue as soon as you hit home it wont stop going to the top, grinding hard and its only on the left side mostly
Sorry to hear about your problems. Unfortunately I don't have a PT100 for testing but I do remember seeing that option in the menus. If it doesn't work, I'd contact Lerdge. For the Z issues, I'd double check your BLtouch wiring and settings.
@@kerseyfabs ty so much for your help, I have the worse luck, the pt100 works fine after trying it without the booster, apparently lerdge k has onboard support, simply hook it up like any other thermistor and set it on pt100. now after fixing that, both extruders jut stopped working, tested by switching the drivers around and they still wont work.. sorry to bother yas lol,,,,,,,,,my luck with 3d printers suck, from the factory board to the lerdge k. I hope to print something some day lol
That sucks! I can't imagine what happened from such an easy fix. Any chance that booster blew something?
Like the video I have the same board I installed on my ender 5plus but I haven't got it dialed in yet do you have or do you plan on putting out a follow up video from start to finish on the actual setup and settings and leveling that work for you to get it printing well ?
Could you have used both, the BL-TOUCH and an END STOP? I ask because the END STOP seams to generally give more repeatable reliable
Z-positioning.
What I'd like to do is dedicate the SENSOR only for BED LEVELING and the END STOP for homing.
I'm using ARDUINO and an MKS G1.4 BOARD now, but don't know how or if it can be coded that way?
Great video. Do you know if the lerdge k board supports BTT S42B V1.1 closed loop stepper motors.
Yes, the Lerdge board does accept the BTT S42B V1.1 steppers.
Kris .... did you try to upgrade E5+ to work on higher temperature up to 300 deg C for another filaments ?? .... thanks
Hopefully you can help, I screwed up and run the wireless module update and run it normal though the screen. Now on startup it immediately go to blue screen, Lerdge Z Bootloader Mode. Now I'm stuck, any advice? Jack
On my Lerdge K kit that I got on 8-20-22, the push button on the monitor is centered???
I only got ONE ribbon cable, and the corner of one end was damaged.
I watched this video before i got a End5+. I wish id gone this way with my upgrade as the BTT MiniE3V3 i brought since turns out to be flashed for Ender 3 and even your firmware wont touch it.
Thank you for the videos. You've been a wonderful asset to my world of the Ender 5 plus. Just wondering, what is your total cost in upgrades so far with this printer?
I'm happy I can help! My printer is always in flux because of the channel. One day I hope to have a "master Ender 5 Plus" with my favorite upgrades. Honestly, at any given time, I'm guessing it's not more than a few hundred dollars. That would include a new mainboard and display, new hotend, and new motion as well as odds and ends.
@@kerseyfabs thank you so much for responding. I really appreciate it. I purchased my ender-5 used off of eBay and it was pretty wrecked up. But after following your videos, I am excited about the future of it. Do you have any outlook on maybe building an enclosure for it? I'm hoping to be able to do that soon. I was going to build out of wood, but now wood is more expensive than glass and steel right now so I think I'm going to go that route. Thanks again for all you do. Your vision and your channel are both amazing. Keep up the great work. I look forward to seeing your next videos. Have a great day.
@@adamflight1 You're very kind Adam. Thank you! If I were going to build an enclosure, I'd build it out of plexiglass and aluminum extrusions. It would look amazing and be relatively cheap and easy. If I wanted it to be more thermally insulating, I'd probably get some sheet aluminum and put insulation on the side panels. I hope this helps. Maybe I'll do a future build but it won't be soon. Too much on the plate.
@@kerseyfabs th-cam.com/video/DrZVF6uOayg/w-d-xo.html
Hey buddy amazing video! thank you! by chance do you have any info on how to set the z offset with this board..... I cant seem to get it right
Kris, I have just finished installing the Lerdge-Z board in my ender-5 plus, I have the homing working correctly, it goes to the back right, and the BL-touch works fine. When I went to run the first print, the print head came to the center, then went back to the home corner and started extruding. Did you have to change anything in the slicer, from the standard Cura profile for the E5P? Thanks
I need help. Follow your video installed the board just fine but the z axis try push up the extruder and the BL touch do not stop it. What do I do wrong? I need to reverse the Z axis motor direction also than the video. When Z+ press on the screen does the bed suppose to go up or down? Because if I follow your video direction the Auto Level probe test about 10 inches above the bed. What is my first step to test the BL touch work correctly?
1) It sounds like your black/white BLtouch is not wired correctly. Double check that one.
2) Z+ should bring the bed down because you are increasing the Z height.
@@kerseyfabs 1) I try flip the black and white wires (Opposite than your video) and now when I go to Auti Leveling Setting Probe Wiring Mode NC it does not beep any longer.
2) The Z+ now move the bed down same as your video, just to confirm.
Now when I do the Z axis home, the BL Touch turns to blue (red off) and the probe is down. But when it reaches the BL touch it does NOT stop and the nozzle crash to the bed. I have to do emergency power off. What is the problem why the BL touch does not stop the Z motor? What setting do I need to change, is the probe wiring need to be N-O?
Thanks KF, got all to works now but I still have one questions on the stock BL Touch and Extruder mounting what is the Off set values and how to measure it correctly? You mention the Z axis need to be -3 but +3 seem to work also?? Why?
This video was great helped a lot.
Glad I could help!
Love all your videos, super helpful and informative. I ended up buying the lerdge kit, but it came with the LCD V2.1 and it does not fit in the case you shared files of in this video. Would anyone know where I could find the files to print the case out for the V2.1?
If I understand correctly the unique selling point of this board is that it runs plug and play, due to using its own custom firmware, without having to compile stuff. So obviously I would be interested in hearing more about the features in that, and if they work well (for improving print quality). From the top of my head, how well does linear advance work, does it support dual z leveling, probe grid size. Generally speaking: How does this board+firmware compare feature-wise to stock ender 5 plus, and a custom marlin on a BTT board.
And of course I'm interested in uart mode, and what that could do for me, driver-wise.
Thanks for the feedback!
I Just want to make sure will the ender 5 + board mount directly into a gen 1 CR-10? Reason I'm asking is cause my idea is if that main board does fit then your mount will also work for my printer.
I'm not 100% sure. If I get a chance to open up my CR-10 I'll let you know.
@@kerseyfabs Alright thank you.
Would you happen to have the pin diagram for the Geeetech Smartto V1.0 motherboard used in the A30T?
Sorry but I don't have one of those. Have you checked the board to see if it's labeled?
@@kerseyfabs Thank You, the board is not labeled and Geeetech is not helpful
I have just purchased the board and screen for my ender 5 plus. Is there some settings for the bl touch on the stok hot end? I can't seem to find anything
hi, thank you for the great vids, may I ask how long does it take to upgrade the board?! mine is stuck for a long time on a blue screen that says "checking the system UI please wait!" update version 4.3.6.1, thanks in advance
Been watching the videos And they are great. Just want to ask is that Raspberry pi case mounted to the frame? Been trying to find a case that is mountable to the frame. Thanks!
Yes, it is. Here's a link: www.thingiverse.com/thing:922740
@@kerseyfabs awesome thanks!!!
I enyoid your video and it helps me a lot but on my Creality Ender 5 printer a significant problem arised and i am stuck to solve it When i Home the Hotend bumbes on to the Endstops then I want to make a Testprint and the Hotend bump on the Endstop then again and then it jams on the Endstops and the printer is screaming what is the reason?I forgot to mention I have a Lerdge K board
just got my lerdge kit my screen only has 4 holes not 6
Main reason I will not ever use octoprint, even though I would love to be able to send gcode and do everything remotely (on my Ender 5) but the slow down is a problem I see people talking about a lot with higher definition models that take more data to produce. This is the reason I think people see improvements with using Arc Welder since it reduces the gcode required by a TON on certain models. Would love to see a huge/high-res model compared with and without octoprint and then with arc welder included.
I love the ability to do things direct on the mainboard without having to recompile Marlin (ugh)! I wonder how many limitations there are though. Basically, what settings are not included that someone who is a little more involved with micro-managing settings and/or adding hardware and options (like yourself with what you do reviewing and constantly adding or changing parts).
Excellent video as normal (I am catching up....hopefully lol)!
OctoPrint can be a problem sometimes if you have certain plug-ins installed or if your board's firmware isn't configured to handle a lot of data over USB. I go back and forth between using it to print. Either way though, I can use it to monitor printing, even if I'm printing from SD.
@@kerseyfabs You know, I never thought about that! I am an idiot but I didn't realize I was this bad LOL You don't HAVE to use it to print from just to monitor....Ok, now I might actually get the stuff to build one of these puppies. I don't know why I was thinking if you don't run the stl from it you can't monitor anything... Thanx for the info man!
Does the upgrade really fix anything or is this a needed upgrade
It's not "needed" but it is an upgrade. Much easier to configure. New drivers. More options.
Hello eveyone, for anyone who follows the video on installing the mother board pls be aware that when he instructs you to swap the red and yellow on the run out/ break sensor wire when I did this it cause my mother board to heat up so I had to swap it back to get it to work if left the other way it would lead to a electric fire
Thanks for the feedback. Did you do this on the Lerdge K or one of their other boards?
@@kerseyfabs So to add to this, I forgot to swap my red and yellow even tho i had it wrote down to check.. When I did a filament change my printer turn off(crashed). I did the wire swap now it works fine. As long as the switch is closed you would get 5v to signal either way(swapped or not), with it reversed and the switch opened I would have grounded the signal wire. I think the video is correct.
this sounds cool, but if your going to do this, just go TH3D, USA support and some of the best support you will ever see in the 3d printing market, they went above and beyond for me with fixing issues I had even though it was out of warranty.
Now if only They did this but klipper but it was all on one board including the pi
Like the pandapi ?
Kris when you did the Marlin 2.0 on an Ender 8-bit board video to show the slow processing you visualised this by printing the Batman model, can you do a video on Arc Welder and see if this can solve the bad Batman quality?
I'd love to do this. I'll put it on my bonus video list.
It’s about time. I already did it. But I wanted someone to do it better.
Awesome! I hope this lived up to expectations.
you rekon this would be a simple enough thing to do if you were going straight from default main board to this? seems like for the most part it's plug-and-play other than some configuration stuff and swapping one or two pins.
I'd also like the thank you for making this series on the ender 5 plus. seems no-one else out there has made any worthwhile videos on this printer and no one really seems to know about it. when i finally get around to getting mine i've already decided that im going to get an exo-slide kit at the same time thanks to the video you made of them, and your fixes for the BL-touch seems easy enough to do.
I think this is a good board upgrade for those not interested in Marlin. I hope to receive a fix on the OctoPrint issue. I'm glad you're enjoying the content. Thanks for watching!
The board changed on the Lerdge Z and I fried my BL Touch can I have a wiring diagram for the Z Board please on Ender 5 plus. And your channel is awesome, just can’t find anything on the Z board! Thanks
Will this setup fix the 2 most nagging faults with what should be a great printer.
I, the dreaded warped bed the BLtouch makes a nice consistent mesh, but Marlin v1.7 (even your compiled firmware) never seems to read it properly. I resort on big prints to use a raft.
2 marlin v1.7 does not read long file names, which is a pain when you want to save great prints with basic design info for my own back catalogue.
Great video again must sort myself to get on the patriot list.
I am getting the board soon about over 1 month from China. I like you to do some video on the touch sensor from lerdge that use circle ring on the hot end. I did order one but not sure hot it works. Also video on replacing the end stop with lerdge using optical switch.
I noticed in your batman bust, the support had some holes in it. I've seen that in the past before-- what is causing this and how do we fix it (if we need?). Is this this related to infill speed?
Now that it’s been a month, are you still happy with this setup? I really like that you can adjust offsets and such right through the printer UI
Yes! I'm still using it for prints big and small without issue. I am looking forward to the next video worth of content to work a few things out but it does work well. The main thing I need to do is get UART mode working. It will help make it quieter and better tune my voltages.
@@kerseyfabs excellent. Is this considered a “silent board”? I’ve got the oem board on my e5+. It’s been driving me bonkers for nearly 6 months. Came across your video on this and it is a much more intriguing upgrade to me compared to the creality silent board
Well, the board itself isn't silent. You'll need to order it with silent stepper drivers. Since it looks like that's all they sell it with, you should be good.
@@kerseyfabs right understand that it is the steppers. Great videos by the way. They’ve been quite helpful.
Great job, I'd like to see if Marlin could be put on it. I'm also interested in hearing more about the octoprint issues. I don't think I'd upgrade to a board that didn't have good communication with octoprint.
Thanks! I'm expecting that they can work out the OctoPrint issues. I'll keep everyone informed.
Octo works flawlessly with Lerdge boards, I have been using them fault free for 4 years now. Marlin has been ported for Lerdge but it doesn't function as nicely as Lerdge FW. In my years of using Lerdge boards, I have NEVER once ever said to myself, gee I wish this was marlin. It is significantly better!
Beware of one youtubers opinion regarding a feature like this guy with saying octo deosn't work, it does and it does well!
I ordered the lerdge k via aliexpress with the link as described in your comments. How do i order the usb and wifi module for this board. I do have the Ender 5 3d printer. Thanks for your videos, big thumb up!
@Kersey Fabrications great job on the video. I appreciate the detail you went into with this printer. Is there any chance you will do a video on the ender 6 or know anything about it? I am having an issue and wanted to see if I can get help resolving it.
Thanks for the feedback! Ender 6: Yes! Coming soon! It's already in the garage.
@@kerseyfabs hope you can get a lot out of it as you did the ender 5 ➕
Спасибо, за отличный обзор, очень помогло определиться с выбором платы. Остановился на lerdge k. Хотя у BTT SKR v1.2 были все шансы, но простота настройки сделала мой выбор.
Спасибо за ваш отзыв! Надеюсь, вы останетесь довольны своим выбором.
Bro, your great. I have the regular Ender 5. Can't stand the Cantilever bed. I'm really considering the 5 plus now for the volume, dual z, but mainly because you have an extensive upgrade library of info I can use to make it better. Will you be messing with the Ender 6 in the future?
Thank you so much! I do have an Ender 6 and will be taking a look at it as soon as I can!
I ordered a k board for my ender 5 plus. Has anyone used Kersey's config file on the latest board? Just wondering if it works on the latest version. Thanks
well it mostly worked. I had to set the motors up, set bed size and end stops.