Take no notice of the negative comments I have two 953’s and have been operating track shovels all my working life, started on b100 internationals cat 951’s 955’s then on to the 953’s d6’s etc etc . We use them in the uk for final trimming roads motorways airport taxiway work and run a 4in 1 bucket for this. When I started I never thought I’d ever be able to level anything and had negative comments from certain people which made me more determined to crack it but I did and have been doing fine levelling for years, track shovels are one of the most versatile machines out there being able to do clearance demo load lorries grading and most things in between,the reason there not popular is there not easy to drive and not many can properly, you’re doing great taking it easy ,by the way that’s lovely looking 963 look after it.
Funny how everybody who's not in the seat is the expert. Fairly certain most of the cats commenting have never run a track loader because the market for them is small. My style for running them is different then yours but you got the job done! In Nebraska I ran one of these all the damn time but these don't even exsist in Colorado and wheel loaders fucking suck!
What's wrong with wheel loaders? Don't get me wrong, no one loves running tracked machines more than me, but I wouldn't be using a tracked machine to do a wheeled ones job and then blame the machine. Care to elaborate?
Richard Noggin well, the road was cut, filled, and is being used. And, the customer called us back out because they are ready to extend it. So, while you’re sitting there flapping your gums from YOUR COMPUTER, we’re going to keep on doing what we do!
well congratulations and next time before you go running off at the mouth,realize when someone is coming to your defense because these clowns that were making fun of you was who i was referring to,not you so you have a good day...
Looks like a nice piece of property to bad its turning into a development . We all have to use the equipment that we have but a scapper might have been a lot quicker for that job. Nice video
Because the aggressive grousers like a dozer has isn't necessary since it's a loader and you get the additional traction needed from the weight transfer of that.
@@d.e303-anewlowcosthomebuil7 With the bucket tipped over and digging in hard ground it is placing much pressure on the tipping links and ram and is totally unnecessary. Ive seen 53's and 63's with screwed up tipping linkage and torn out ram seals due to this abuse. Bring in an excavator to dig it out with half the fuel, a fifth of the track wear and get a better job, the stone up with the 963 if you must
@@jameslindley8318 how do you tilt the blade on those to cut a grade? I mean to crown a road, or to start on a mountain road. Does the blade tilt like a regular dozer?
Guys I need some help. I'm currently learning to operate a 963b and I'm having trouble with the position of my bucket. Any tips or advice? One pass I'm digging too much and the next pass I'm just skimming dirt.
With more practice and training you'll get it. The top of the bucket is a level indicator, with time you'll learn to know when your bucket is level. Before setting you bucket on the ground, pull the lever all the way to the rear until it kicks out. That's when your bucket is 'flat' or in the load position. Then lower the bucket until it a few inches off the ground. This is where you angle the bucket for your dig depth. For shallow digging, tilt the bucket until the teeth touch, go slow and get the feel from there. For deeper digging, you go tilt the bucket at a greater angle and apply down pressure accordingly. Again, go slow until you get the feel for it and are able to visually gauge your depth based on bucket position how the machine handles.
SLHawk92 Thanks man. The boss has me stripping top soil off a lot and then I have grade it and right now it looks like I cut a bunch of speed bumps all over the place. I'll try again tomorrow and see how it goes
John Norris to fix that, set the teeth in the ground about an inch or two “use your judgement “ to knock the bumps down. Once you got it relatively ‘flat’ then float it with the teeth pointed straight down. Continue to work it at a reduced angle until you got it like you want it. Over time, you’ll get better at it
Place machine on level ground Sit in the seat and set the bucket flat on the deck- by rolling right back, put the heels on the ground and roll bucket forward until the teeth hit, (then a tad more roll pressure on the teeth )then lift up/Raise Vertically just a Tad until the teeth are just skimming/touching the ground, then jump out your seat and check where your teeth are, and adjust until the teeth are just toed down a tad, jump back in the seat and sit in your normal/comfortable position and sight through/align a part of the tipping link with a part of the bucket or similar and get a mate to paint a mark on the bucket & linkage so the paint marks line up, whilst your still in the seat !- That will give you a Bench Mark as to where your Bucket Teeth are. That said if the self levelling device is working you shouldn't need the above !.But it may need adjustment. CUTTING When you start your Cut- take it VERY SLOWLY ( Cut the Revs back to half throttle)and feel what the machine is doing- (Remember) the bucket will do what ever the machine is doing,) !! ie -if the machine stays flat level then you will dig flat level !, Enter the Cut by rolling the bucket forward a TAD ONLY! GO MEGA MEGA SLOW until the teeth are around 250 mm under- then as the machine progresses forward onto the new cut ground and starts to rock forward- roll the bucket back (just a tad )and progressively to prevent the teeth diving in too deep, ("progressively" to keep a smooth cut) and to prevent corrugations. LEVELLING. If the machine rocks sideways or fore n aft then STOP Immediately (Patience required here) , go back dump a bucket full when the low spot is, making sure you fill the low spot from the machine side, ie ( no hollows) then back off a tad, reset your bucket and cut the top off the dumped spoil a Tad High -(150 mm if soft material)to allow for compaction as you track over it. Remember !! What ever the machine is doing -ie leaning side ways or nosing down or up, that is what your bucket is doing !! So many think if they've been over it - they think its level, Learn Patience and GO BACK & (AMPLY) FILL THE HOLLOW- if the machine ducks or starts leaning over. Feel machine position through your ass. CROWNING Id not bother Crowning the Reduced level dig, Put the Crown on when stoning up- put the stone on Well High! - (around 200 mm-300 mm Proud) a machine width in the Centre of the road for maybe 20- 30 linear metres, then push a bit off to either side letting the machine duck a bit as you slew either side, the back blade the centre berm stone to take out any slew ridging then go back to the start, fill your bucket with stone and run straight down either side of the road but 150 mm lower than the centre berm, filling any Hollows as required, Then straddle the Centre Berm and the lower bench at one side of the road hence rocking the machine over slightly and run down the road blending the centre berm with the lower side grade- repeat on the other side ! hence you have your Camber/Crown. PATIENCE IS PARAMOUNT- SLOW THAT ENGINE DOWN !!! AND PAY ATTENTION until you have it embedded in you head- then you will throw it on so fast it'll make others heads spin.
I guess I don't understand why you would use a tracked machine with a bucket to do a dozers job! A D3 with a 6 way blade would've been much faster and cleaner, use the bucket machine to pickup the piles you made with a dozer.
For a couple of reasons. The first being, topsoil doesn't compact well and will hold water underneath the base and surface of the road. Over time, especially in an area that gets a moderate amount of precipitation, the road will never get hard and eventually rut up again. Remove the topsoil to get down to a good solid dirt for the subbase. If you go down so far (your call) and you still find the soil is too soft and silty, you can add geotextile paper and increase the amount of stone put in for the base.. Secondly, the side walls will contain the stone that you put down and keep it from running while your spreading it.
@@HammaDownEnterprises Coz Top soil will turn to shit when its wet and will push straight through crushed stone capping plus if you put stone straight on top your road would standing high with no side support hence the edges will break away
Take no notice of the negative comments I have two 953’s and have been operating track shovels all my working life, started on b100 internationals cat 951’s 955’s then on to the 953’s d6’s etc etc . We use them in the uk for final trimming roads motorways airport taxiway work and run a 4in 1 bucket for this. When I started I never thought I’d ever be able to level anything and had negative comments from certain people which made me more determined to crack it but I did and have been doing fine levelling for years, track shovels are one of the most versatile machines out there being able to do clearance demo load lorries grading and most things in between,the reason there not popular is there not easy to drive and not many can properly, you’re doing great taking it easy ,by the way that’s lovely looking 963 look after it.
Thanks!
Funny how everybody who's not in the seat is the expert. Fairly certain most of the cats commenting have never run a track loader because the market for them is small. My style for running them is different then yours but you got the job done! In Nebraska I ran one of these all the damn time but these don't even exsist in Colorado and wheel loaders fucking suck!
What's wrong with wheel loaders? Don't get me wrong, no one loves running tracked machines more than me, but I wouldn't be using a tracked machine to do a wheeled ones job and then blame the machine. Care to elaborate?
i gotta say,you armchair operators keep it entertaining LOL...im gonna bet its really hard trying to cut subgrade in a computer chair smdh...
Richard Noggin well, the road was cut, filled, and is being used. And, the customer called us back out because they are ready to extend it. So, while you’re sitting there flapping your gums from YOUR COMPUTER, we’re going to keep on doing what we do!
well congratulations and next time before you go running off at the mouth,realize when someone is coming to your defense because these clowns that were making fun of you was who i was referring to,not you so you have a good day...
Richard Noggin yeah, you’re right. Looks like I misread that one. My apologies...
Rite on Richard 👍👍👍👍
Nice job and not slamming the machine👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Keep going, going back is a waste turn around
don't be so quick on the controls.
Great Video; How can we find others similar to this one
Looks like a nice piece of property to bad its turning into a development . We all have to use the equipment that we have but a scapper might have been a lot quicker for that job. Nice video
Pretty sure this guy had never even set in a highlift before today!! That was ugly to watch.
IT IS CALLED A TRACK LOADER.
@@alphonsotate2982 They were called highlifts long before they were called track loaders.
They were never called high lifts by anyone
@@JoshuaSmith-xw6jp You would be wrong on that.
Only a “layman “ would call a track loader a high lift 👔
Great video! I enjoyed it. Does that loader have the 3126 motor in it?
I believe so, but don't hold me to it.
SLHawk92 Ok. Thanks for the reply!
ENGINE ------MOTORS ARE ELECTRIC.
No its hydrostatic
Seems a little deep???
Damn...rough
how?
👍👍👍
Just turn around for a long run like that and save time.
Painful to watch. Operator needs tuition badly
So it's true what they say, everyone is always drunk in the USA. This bloke seems to be anyway.
I thought that was in Oz.?
Why do track loaders have excavator style tracks and not dozer tracks?
My same thought!
To aid in turning loading trucks.
Because the aggressive grousers like a dozer has isn't necessary since it's a loader and you get the additional traction needed from the weight transfer of that.
They now come as an option with Cats.
Are these real videos does the operator ill say drive blind folded causes hes not an operator
Casey you dumb fuck.Just fucking stop!
Nice machine ..What year is it? Ive always like the style where they were more yellow and very little black on the body
scott m don’t know. I was renting this machine from Martin and Gass.
HE'D NOT BE DRIVING FOR ME !!, Fckn about he'll have that tilt ram seal out if he keeps at it like that
like how?
@@d.e303-anewlowcosthomebuil7
With the bucket tipped over and digging in hard ground it is placing much pressure on the tipping links and ram and is totally unnecessary.
Ive seen 53's and 63's with screwed up tipping linkage and torn out ram seals due to this abuse.
Bring in an excavator to dig it out with half the fuel, a fifth of the track wear and get a better job, the stone up with the 963 if you must
@@jameslindley8318 ur right, i just saw that
@@jameslindley8318 how do you tilt the blade on those to cut a grade?
I mean to crown a road, or to start on a mountain road. Does the blade tilt like a regular dozer?
@@d.e303-anewlowcosthomebuil7 No Tilt Just Experience
Rookie
Guys I need some help. I'm currently learning to operate a 963b and I'm having trouble with the position of my bucket. Any tips or advice? One pass I'm digging too much and the next pass I'm just skimming dirt.
With more practice and training you'll get it. The top of the bucket is a level indicator, with time you'll learn to know when your bucket is level. Before setting you bucket on the ground, pull the lever all the way to the rear until it kicks out. That's when your bucket is 'flat' or in the load position. Then lower the bucket until it a few inches off the ground. This is where you angle the bucket for your dig depth. For shallow digging, tilt the bucket until the teeth touch, go slow and get the feel from there. For deeper digging, you go tilt the bucket at a greater angle and apply down pressure accordingly. Again, go slow until you get the feel for it and are able to visually gauge your depth based on bucket position how the machine handles.
SLHawk92
Thanks man. The boss has me stripping top soil off a lot and then I have grade it and right now it looks like I cut a bunch of speed bumps all over the place. I'll try again tomorrow and see how it goes
John Norris to fix that, set the teeth in the ground about an inch or two “use your judgement “ to knock the bumps down. Once you got it relatively ‘flat’ then float it with the teeth pointed straight down. Continue to work it at a reduced angle until you got it like you want it. Over time, you’ll get better at it
Keep practicing you’ll get it ..... keep your eye on the bar above bucket ram ..... that’ll show you where your bucket is
Place machine on level ground
Sit in the seat and set the bucket flat on the deck- by rolling right back, put the heels on the ground and roll bucket forward until the teeth hit, (then a tad more roll pressure on the teeth )then lift up/Raise Vertically just a Tad until the teeth are just skimming/touching the ground, then jump out your seat and check where your teeth are, and adjust until the teeth are just toed down a tad, jump back in the seat and sit in your normal/comfortable position and sight through/align a part of the tipping link with a part of the bucket or similar and get a mate to paint a mark on the bucket & linkage so the paint marks line up, whilst your still in the seat !- That will give you a Bench Mark as to where your Bucket Teeth are.
That said if the self levelling device is working you shouldn't need the above !.But it may need adjustment.
CUTTING
When you start your Cut- take it VERY SLOWLY ( Cut the Revs back to half throttle)and feel what the machine is doing- (Remember) the bucket will do what ever the machine is doing,) !! ie -if the machine stays flat level then you will dig flat level !,
Enter the Cut by rolling the bucket forward a TAD ONLY! GO MEGA MEGA SLOW until the teeth are around 250 mm under- then as the machine progresses forward onto the new cut ground and starts to rock forward- roll the bucket back (just a tad )and progressively to prevent the teeth diving in too deep, ("progressively" to keep a smooth cut) and to prevent corrugations.
LEVELLING.
If the machine rocks sideways or fore n aft then STOP Immediately (Patience required here) , go back dump a bucket full when the low spot is, making sure you fill the low spot from the machine side, ie ( no hollows) then back off a tad, reset your bucket and cut the top off the dumped spoil a Tad High -(150 mm if soft material)to allow for compaction as you track over it.
Remember !! What ever the machine is doing -ie leaning side ways or nosing down or up, that is what your bucket is doing !!
So many think if they've been over it - they think its level,
Learn Patience and GO BACK & (AMPLY) FILL THE HOLLOW- if the machine ducks or starts leaning over.
Feel machine position through your ass.
CROWNING
Id not bother Crowning the Reduced level dig,
Put the Crown on when stoning up- put the stone on Well High! - (around 200 mm-300 mm Proud) a machine width in the Centre of the road for maybe 20- 30 linear metres, then push a bit off to either side letting the machine duck a bit as you slew either side, the back blade the centre berm stone to take out any slew ridging
then go back to the start, fill your bucket with stone and run straight down either side of the road but 150 mm lower than the centre berm, filling any Hollows as required,
Then straddle the Centre Berm and the lower bench at one side of the road hence rocking the machine over slightly and run down the road blending the centre berm with the lower side grade- repeat on the other side ! hence you have your Camber/Crown.
PATIENCE IS PARAMOUNT- SLOW THAT ENGINE DOWN !!! AND PAY ATTENTION until you have it embedded in you head- then you will throw it on so fast it'll make others heads spin.
I guess I don't understand why you would use a tracked machine with a bucket to do a dozers job! A D3 with a 6 way blade would've been much faster and cleaner, use the bucket machine to pickup the piles you made with a dozer.
Professor MaryAnn why use 2 machines when 1 could do the job?
U work with what u got dump ass.
Shut up
Yeah A D3 is gonna do the same job as a 963 You dingdong
Why would u incur the extra cost when one machine could do it.
Bonjour
habil belmiloud howdy!
Why would you cut top soil off a road
For a couple of reasons. The first being, topsoil doesn't compact well and will hold water underneath the base and surface of the road. Over time, especially in an area that gets a moderate amount of precipitation, the road will never get hard and eventually rut up again. Remove the topsoil to get down to a good solid dirt for the subbase. If you go down so far (your call) and you still find the soil is too soft and silty, you can add geotextile paper and increase the amount of stone put in for the base.. Secondly, the side walls will contain the stone that you put down and keep it from running while your spreading it.
@@HammaDownEnterprises
Coz Top soil will turn to shit when its wet and will push straight through crushed stone capping plus if you put stone straight on top your road would standing high with no side support hence the edges will break away
Jesus Wept !!!!!!!!!!!
NAH !
Lmao
No hate but I'd take this down , its doing you more harm than good !
And why is that?
Der übte noch oder
track loaders not as effective as escavators
@The Greatman *latter
I think the saying is " apples to oranges"
@@Fiberglasser03 that is funny!
These earthmoving vids bring out the Dickheads!!!