how to use caulk and silicone like a pro - beginner to pro in seconds
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2024
- how to caulk and silicone perfect like a pro .If you want to learn the secret to how to apply a perfect bead of caulk or silicone every time like a prop this is the video for you. I will show you how to use and apply silicone and caulk to go from beginner to pro in seconds with my secret tips and tricks. installing or applying silicone sealant and caulk is very easy if you watch this video and learn my best secret. Make sure you LIKE, COMMENT and SUBSCRIBE for more videos.
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Caulking gun - amzn.to/3ZoToP8
caulking how to use caulk and silicone like a pro - beginner to pro in seconds hacks
#DIY #howto #billshowto
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Dish washing detergent 👍
thanks
That’s Wet Tooling Flim flam that would get any real caulker FIRED back in my day!
@@toecutter1015 why?
Although I've heard this tip before, from my experience, it's important to point out that if the soapy solution gets behind the silicone/caulk (in-between the tile and silicone/caulk) then the soapy solution will prevent the silicone/caulk from adhering to the tile properly. The tried and true method will always be to get a consistent bead and wet your finger then smooth the silicone/caulk. The very important part of that method is to wipe off the excess build up silicone/caulk from your finger before you get too much build up on your finger, wipe it off on a rag and continue down the line. Your tile should always be dry to ensure maximum adhesion.
No kidding. This is horrible advice. Surfactants are bond breakers. The only way to NOT get soap in your joint is to caulk the entire thing and the spray the place down with... why do I even need to explain this 🤦
@@harmonyintegration6612 sounds like you know what your talking about but your comment makes no sense at all… I’m trying to learn and sick of the fairy liquid vs it doesn’t bond please explain yourself more clearly for me 👊
Caulking squares work much better, may not be as easy but no worries on adhesion due to contamination ie washing detergent/soap/windex now the chance of contamination going all the way through to create a leak is probably pretty slim but not one I’m willing to take on someone paying me 10k 20k for a bathroom remodel. Also keep in mind the showers pros are building today are fully waterproof before tile touches the walls. Mildew and mold buildup behind tile is another conversation but you get the point. Just because something is easier doesn’t mean it’s the right way
@@davidc830 fingering of the bead causes the concave. Concave causes thin edges that will get unstuck. Use tools like stick with tip cut flat and little less then the width of the bead or plastic squares. When applied bead wet your finger and press the bead against both surfaces. Itll look messy but don't worry, spray it then with washing up liquid and water mix put your tool of choice on the bead (°45) press firmly and wipe the bead along. As you pressing on it you'll squeeze any left soap between the bead and wall. The soap on top and tool will make straight and clean bead with even edges. Personally like to run finger across the bead to polish tiny scratches from the tool and get some sheen on it as well as to make sure the bead is stuck properly. When you master it you'll be able to apply it 95% perfect with the nozzle and smooth the 5% with a wooden stick
@@davidc830 look at Charlie diyte to find out how to do it properly
This is exactly what my late grandpa did. Even the washing detergent as non-stick agent. Thank you for reminding me about him.
Is washing detergent dish soap or laundry soap?
I would love to know too. We don’t use that term in America. Thanks!
Good tips for DIYers, but as a High-end Residential remodel contractor who doesn't want product to fail and come back to clients, I do things a bit different.
We use de-greaser (water/dishsoap) for silicone or any type of oily base caulking.
however, don't do this with water-base, which are usually interior painters caulk. The de-greaser can often cause bad adhesion and it isn't as easy to work with. it may look fine for a couple months, but tends to come up around 6months to 1 year later. Rather, water alone is better.
We learned this the hard way years back.
Great insight.. So are you saying use water or this special degreaser? Can you post link to this degreaser pls?
Been doing it that way for years, but recently bought a little set of those finishing tools. It is amazing what a difference 1mm makes to the radius of the shaping curve. The other take home advice, and it applies to everything from puttying to plastering: don’t muck about! If the first pass is 85% good, then leave it and move on. Any attempt to improve it by retouching will only make it worse.
Good advice. My friend who I worked for time to time told me the same of working concrete. I believe the saying that is appropriate for this is "the perfect is the enemy of the good".
Old saying ...If it looks good ..it is good ..then leave it alone 😊
That's such a good point about not mucking around. I do it sometimes when shaping my beard, keep trying to get it perfect and even, and end up going overboard and having to shave the whole thing off 🤣
thanks. I always try to go back and correct errors but it just causes a chain reaction of more and more fixes. 85% is a good rule.
So true. Every time I’ve ever tried to make my caulk or silicon look better always ends up looking worse.
The tip about soap and water is genius! Wish I thought of that all these years I have been caulking my home projects.
Does he mean washing up liquid?? 🤔 And water..... He says washing detergent
My brother-in-law taught me this technique way back in 1971.
He used to manufacture glass fish-tanks, sealed with silicone caulk.
This also works with an unrelated product: vinyl cut stickers for sign-making: it allows one to "slip" the letters into exact position.
Not exactly a "secret", but it is to many folk!
I want to take the time to thank you for showing us do-it-yourselfers how to apply a perfect bead of caulking like the pros. 👍
Genius. I used to stick my index finger in my mouth and use that. Then when it got covered in sealant, middle finger. Then ring finger then pinkie. Great tip.
I still do this on small bits that i cant be bothered to go and get a spray. wors a charm.
Why not just wear gloves?
Next step is wiping it all on your trousers 😄
The Soapy Water and the screw in the Tip are both mind-blowing.
I learned proper caulking from the pros years ago. You flush cut the tip and push it forward controlling the flow. The flush cut tip produces a concave bead and no need to run your finger along. As a cabinet installer, I've caulked about 300 plus quartz counter tops.
You are exactly right. No need to get your fingers in it at all.
I have to disagree with everything I am afraid. Concave looks messy, unclean but most importantly the thinner edges of a concave a much more prone to get unstuck when regularly cleaned. Also you never cut the nozzle clean and it will always leave tiny scratches. What you are describing is basically half of the job. After what you leave I would put wooden stick with tip cut flat less than width of the bead and run it along. The stick is best kept in cup of fairly strong solution of washing up liquid so it soaks it up and eliminates the need for spray. Resulting in °45 angle nice strong bead with even edges and smooth sheen on top that's easy to clean and last lot longer. I should say I am a mastic man from UK and I have to say I never seen mastic done properly in US so you are not the only one.
@@lipeeno Is "mastic" the same thing as what we in the USA call "caulk?" What shape of stick? Round? Square? Rectangle? Would you use that same "stick" technique after the 45 degree tip cut and "pull smoothly" method shown in the video? Do you always use a "run bead and then smooth with stick" method on every caulk you lay? Seems like the main difference between what you are suggesting and the "finger" method shown in the video is that you keep your finger clean. You say a "wooden stick with tip cut flat less than the width of the bead." Since the bead is maybe 1/4" at most, isn't that a very small stick?
@@TheLarryBrown I would agree with @lipeeno - use some sort of stick (or plastic) that has a straight cut at the end, not a finger. Stick will create a flat seam instead of concave - it will be more durable and easier to clean. Moreover, don’t try to clean up the excess silicone that gets pushed to the sides (then using finger you will most likely have to stop to clean it). Trying to clean the excess will just mess up the whole work, and stops will make the seam inconsistent. So just run the seam with stick holding it at 45 degree angle (the excess will be “cut” off the actual seam material), let it dry and remove the excess when dried, it will come off as silicone ropes pretty easily.
love using my fingers tho
Simple, clear and really helpful. Love your energy. THANKS!
This couldn't be more perfect for someone who's never done this before. Really useful and easy to remember.
CAULK
update???
And totally useless for 9 out of 10 jobs.
Cut the 45 on the tip, get a wet rag handy...apply smooth and consistent....wet finger and ease down caulk line at at least a 45 degree angle and stop with the finger as soon as it start to build up on the sides and wipe onto rag.....repeat.....for final wipe....put rag over finger and gently wipe down the caulk line to give a finished consistent look and clean off any that may have been pushed out on to the other surfaces. Practice makes perfect....good luck.
Totally incorrect way to do it...no liquids should be used, it stops the bead edge sticking firmly and always comes off...water creeps down the side of the shower tray and cause big damage to rooms below. Had a lot of work over the years repairing ceilings because of this technique used by "pro's" that never get asked back to their work to see what a mess they made
Just about to apply silicone sealant to multiple joints in our new shower room. I’ve been practicing with the sealant and could not get the finish to an acceptable standard. Just tried your method on a test piece and you’d think I knew what I was doing, it’s that good! Thanks so much!
Useful to put a line of felt tip marker to line where the angle cut is so you always know where the caulk comes out when using in awkward spaces at different angles
recently had a glass installer use this method with silicone he did a fantastic finish I'm going to use this method on a project tomorrow thanks for the video
So simple but works really well, I could never apply it properly up until I saw your video.
Thanks!
Thank you Bill! I was clueless, but your easy to follow steps made my job look professional.
Glad I could help and you enjoyed the video 👍👍
Practice makes perfect, it's easy for a person that's been doing this a long time, however when they or you start caulking dont be afraid of messing it up, these tips have been around for ever and are perfect for a beginner
Billshowto you've done it again - another great diy lesson - really helpful - thanks heaps!
Absolutely brilliant. I have been looking for this advice for years and I've finally found it.
The problem with this method is, it's great if you have lots of experiance. I would recommend Diy'rs to use the masking method, which guarantees perfect results, even if it is your first time. Just mask off both sides of where you need your silicone, with a gap in the centre about 6mm, apply the filler to the gap, wet your finger, and wipe across it when finished just like in this video, making sure that the silicon has filled the gap completely, then remove the tape as soon as you have finished, job done, perfect edges,
Agreed. The masking tape method will leave a slight ridge the thickness of the tape though, so I suggest as a final step after removing the tape is to wet your finger and light swipe over the silicone one more time to smooth it perfectly.
Thanks!
@Billshowto instead of the screw in the end I use those little memory foam earbud things, cut one in half and squash down then twist into the hole. Works pretty well.
That is the best tip ever! Just completed a silicon job in our bathroom, and the finish was perfect. I've always struggled with this job and ended up covered in silicon, but my hands were clean too! Thanks
Ace tip... I used this method for decades at work... TY for sharing Mate.
Very nice! Good tips! The spray and soapy water and finger is what a tile professional told me too, so you have confirmed the technique you show on your vid
I am going to try this. When doing particular areas where the smallest bead possible is desired, I always use tape. Tape both sides, apply caulk/silicone and remove excess, pull tape and then lightly run wet finger over it in order to press the edges down. I don't do this method always, but some situations you want a very tiny bead but to ensure you have a seal. Tape allows you to push aggressively while minimizing the outside. Works great if you have uneven surfaces too. I like the trick learned in this video and will try, just figured I would share my trick with all.
The screw in tip of the nozzle trick been doing that for over 40 years. Great vid again
Simple, to the point and mighty helpful. Thanks mate!
I been doing this for 23 years & I approve this method.
there is a other bettter way to finish the silicone sealant by using the caulking tool, if you need, we provide you for free to try.
E X C E L L E N T ! Nice job indeed, clear how-to / show-and-tell tips in a 5.5 min. video. Much appreciated.
Wow. And having soap and water with a spray bottle is genius. 1st time I seen this. Thank you
Kudos to you for this time-saving, effective, caulk application hack! You did so without a lot of rambling, silliness, or loud, annoying music.. again, thanks!👍🏼
👍
Your jerky section looked better than most of my finished beads. 😂
I’ve always smoothed out the caulking by running my finger in the reverse direction it was applied, it makes a big difference than running your finger in the same direction it was applied.
thank you so much, so simple but helpful
Hi I just watched your video. And I’ve just done the sealant on my bathroom and toilet floor. It was so easy! The water and dish washing detergent worked a treat. Thank you for making such a helpful video. I’ve never used sealant before. I think it looks great 😊
Holy crap - that's like magic! I'm inspired to go re-seal the kitchen after a sorry-looking attempt last year.
I love common sense cures. I’ve done this for years with my finger and turned out well. So we’ll that my family thinks I’m a pro and gets me to caulk anything that ever needs it. Privately I hated it though because I had no idea what I was doing! I got a smooth bead (check). I used my finger (check). But that’s where it ends for me and my method. I always had a big mess on my hands and lots of time cleanup and effort. This was a real blessing to me and will save me lots of work and time. Thanks. I’ve subscribed.
Doing that final smoothing with a finger is such a satisfying way to finish the job 🙂
My misses agrees with you my friend. 😎
fast and clear instructions, very easy to follow. Thanks a lot.
Never been that good at siliconeing. Jus had a feature wall done that required good quality silicone. This video turned my average work into great. Thanku very much.
You are so awesome!! Thank you for your honest, and helpful tips! 👍🏼
Mate youre a legend! You make this job alot so easy!
I was quite worried about siliconing around my worktops. Never done it before, so definitely a novice.After watching your video, I’m very confident at giving it ago. Thankyou 🙌
This appears doable to a novice like me. Thanks!🎉
I used the screw cap idea for years but recently found wrapping the tip of the nozzle in a piece of cling film works even better with none of the sealant drying out at the tip.
I'll give it a try. 🙂
Hot glue is best
Thanks for the tips. I was always taught that the best caulk job is the one you can't see. So I would always use a damp cloth and wipe all that excess caulk away. That way the joint is completely filled and if you used clear or a color match you would never even see it and it makes it easier to clean if it's like in a shower or other wet area that builds up mold and mildew
Best and most useful video I’ve seen in ages … looking forward to doing my next caulking job now. THANKS!!!
Excellent video! I just used the soapy water on my finger and it all worked perfectly!
Thanks for this “to the point” video guide with no mucking about and without having to listen to someone so full of themselves and waffling on for half an hour.
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Amazing, we just repainted our bathrooms and I was about caulk the trim. I'm really happy I watched this video, I have always hated doing caulking, I can't wait to try this out.
Use the detergent but instead of using finger use paddle pop stick.
@@regwright1716Does not work in tight areas and tight corners.
Fab! Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. 😊
Thank you sir… I spent an inordinate amount of time applying expensive painters tape before doing the silicone! This is a much easier method
Awesome tips, especially putting a screw in the top of the nozzle, thanks
Great tips!
Tried the spray routine and it worked perfectly! Used dishwashing solution (Dove) cuz’ all we have is pods for the washer.
Bill is very nice to help us homeowners! Please donate appropriately. We did :)
Glad I could help , thank you 👍
So glad to see someone doing this correctly. You don't any special tools. I was taught this way over 30 years ago. It's the Pro way too. Anyone says different, well they were not taught by pros.
Finally,.... Something I can work with!
This was genuinely a very informative and easy to understand/follow video
45 degree cut, water dish detergent mixture, wipe and finished lol got it!!
Good vid. From years of (sometimes painful) experience I managed to find all those techniques except the water/detergent spray bit. Thanks.
I'm 43 and been doing any and everything in 🏠 improvement and building and this is the most simple and amazing tip/trick I've seen to date ... thx
I agree! Been a dir’er for many years, never knew the liquid soap trick!
@@jimw91321 the liquid soap makes it easier to get a clean finish for sure, but it should actually be avoided. What you want is actually a caulking liquid *without* added detergent. These liquids are cheap and works just the same for applications. The big difference is, if you use a detergent on silicone based sealants, it will remove the silicon oil from the outmost layer of the bead, which means as it hardens the outer later will end up slightly more "rubbery" due to there becoming microscopic little pores in the surface. These are not visible however, but over time you will see a difference in that a silicon bead applied with detergent will be more prone to collect dust/dirt (especially visible when using white) and it will make white silicone turn a light yellow after a 8-12 months. Using the proper stuff without detergents will give you a nice smooth bead that will look the same as it did when applied 5-10 even years later.
The second half of your good bead was not in contact with the tile before you wet the area. The water will stop it sticking where you want it to. The joint will leak and mould will grow. The bead needs to be stuck to the surface before the spray is applied.
Have to agree with Ramino Man. After applying the silicone you must make sure it is in contact with both surfaces before you spray. The bead applied here will fail! Showers will leak. This guy really doesn't know how to apply silicone.
A pro sealant applicator would use nothing but an angled nozzle, a pro would apply a fillet of silicone to a joint like that and it wouldn't need touching. As some one said your effort was not good as soon as you spray a joint like yours it would not stick!
Wet the tool don't spray , better still don't don't touch it.
Agreed, air gap, soapy water underneath, failed adhesion. I came here looking for expert demonstrations.
Look at the anonymous cowards who are criticizing you from behind their Grandmother's keyboard!
Utterly pathetic retarded infants.
I figured that was part of the “or if you know nothing at all” (something like that). So even if you fuck up, the pray will just make it look nice.
very nicely and simply explained, im just about to do some window frames and never had much joy before getting a nice bead with minimum mess, so hopefully the soapy spray method will help. cheers
👍👍👍
anyhoo i did the windows yesterday and the beads ended up perfectly acceptable. maybe not as good as a pro but it passed muster. the only thing i will add is that i still ended up with a bit of a gooey mess in a rag because every time i put the caulking gun down i got some sealent oozing out, which i understand doesnt happen if you get one that 'sucks back' when released, but it's not a job i do everyday so i can live with it and didnt want to buy a pro gun. the other thing was, i think my (garden) spray bottle dispensed a little too much soapy water, but at the end of the day it's all good, and i've finished a job i didnt really want to do lol, so onto the rest of the decorating and a happier wife :)
Love that water+detergent trick, which makes perfect sense to reduce drag, cheers mate.
I'm hardly a pro, but I'm a stickler for straight lines. I always use painter's tape above and below the line to be caulked; apply the caulk, pull my finger through it until it's even, then remove the tape and pull my finger lightly across it again. It may be silly, but I always get a perfect line every time.
Right there with you on that. Looks the business
you may have nice straight lines that look very neat and tidy but you will also have a concave bead that is extremely thin at point of contact with tile and tray/bath. This will soon lose contact from minimal cleaning and give access to water and soap and shortly to mould.
@@webmastermail8 what would you recommend?
I've done the painters tape method a couple times looks nice but never seems to last as long as it would if you didnt. I have a tool I use now that allows you to make the bead into the shape you want and scrapes up the excess
@@RennieAsh I think this is the best way and shows you how as well as explaining why.
th-cam.com/video/_DI4hfHM_Hg/w-d-xo.html
Great tips…. The screw on the nozzle to preserve the caulking is particularly helpful for me
please dont do that just press a litle silicone out let it be out and dry, next time you are going to use it just grab the litle bit you let out for dry and remove it and voila you made your own seal for youre silicone tube and next time you just leave a litle out again to dry.
Very helpful. Great video, well produced, really good demonstration.
Great work Bill....one additional tip
Is to use disposable baby wipes to clean excess caulk off your finger. Wipes off easy and avoids spreading caulk all over old rags
great video, simple and straight to the point... these last few days i've been finding courage to apply new silicone in my shower, and this video was a great help!
You’re welcome 👍
That is fantasstic sharing - I've never done this before and now feel more confident using your method. Thank you
Fantastic tip, looks to be very effective AND simple. Thanks
Perfect video, thanks for the tips! worked extremely well in my bathroom :)
Nice trick. When I painted for a living I would hold a wet finger just behind the nozzle as I ran down the seam, squeezing out the caulk and smoothing it all in one go, instead of two steps. Easier to do on shorter runs, but even longer ones got easier over time
that's exactly the way I do it and it comes out perfect.
Thanks for your opinions folks. There are obviously numerous ways to get a good caulk line, but as I stated, I am hardly a pro. I've never had any 'adhering' problems with the method that I use, but I suppose only time will tell. I have one of those application tools but I don't care for it much. As for sealing the tube, I use wine bottle corks. I drill a partial hole in the top, press it down over the tip, give it a twist, and it works great for months.
Wire nuts and you will never use anything else, cheap, practical and excellent seal.
My caulking skills are pretty average but just finished a small job in the laundry using your method and it worked a treat. Thanks heaps!
We just bought a fixer upper house and Bill, you are saving our life mate. Absolutely top stuff, thank you!
You’re very welcome 👍
I just had this show up in my recommendations and I didn’t realize this channel has been going for so long, very cool.
👍
Omg 😱😱😱 this has made my finished caulk look ten times better! TY 🥰
Be sure to share pictures of your caulk with friends and family. 🥰
Omg thank u. This worked so well .. could never get a straight line without all the caulk sticking all over the place
I spend so much money on caulking tools. that is the best video. Thanks
Use the "finger" from the acrylic glove over to seal the calk and tie off with rubber band. Seals better than a screw or use both.
The best method by far is wire nuts, it will create a perfect seal and very practical. You have to use the right size for the nozzle application, you will never use anything else.
@@willoughby1888 Another arrow in the quiver. I just drop the wire nut in my pocket and when I'm done caulking it's right there.
The other thing that works very well is an ammonia-free foaming window cleaner. They are available in spray cans. This is a very useful video and the demonstrated technique that most professional installers of glass shower enclosures and solid surface countertops use.
The guys I worked with were “old pros” in building maintenance. Carpenters, flooring, cabinetry, plumbers, drywall and painters and on some jobs - landscapers. Pity we were thought of as “janitors or custodians” when actually we are skilled, and in many cases, certified/licensed to do our jobs in any variety of facility “maintenance. This caulking technique wasn’t taught in any school I’ve ever attended but handed down knowledge by observation! It does work like a charm and really puts the finishing touch on the work.
EXCELLENT VIDEO. Thank you so much for your time and for sharing your "secrets". 🙂
I love videos like this because when someone shower fails I get to come in and tile a new one. Crappy TH-cam“tips” accounts for about 9% of my business.
Same!!
So how does the caulking shown in this video fails a shower so that you have to remove all the tiles?
It's a troubleshooting error. Its when a clueless customer calls in an "expert" and they have no idea how to troubleshoot an issue so they just blame it on the last guy, quote a maximum repair, do a bunch of unnecessary work, take the money and run
Didn't know Alexander Volkanovski makes how-to videos
I was so glad you used your finger Bill. Best caulking tools available the fingers. Tiny, clean consistent bead, all the way up to a fat bead, all on one hand 👌
Pretty good, I recommend a set of silicone finishing profiles from you local diy store, about a tenner.
Me too, but you have to remember to spray the tool for best outcomes.
@@andrewdrummond8576 good point, will that!
I've been applying silicone for 30 years, and you SHOULD NOT pull the gun along. The gun should be pushed ahead. This is the only way to get the silicone to squeeze into the gap between the tiles. Also, the use of detergent water is OK but this will prevent the silicone adhering to the tiles everywhere the silicone does not initially stick when you apply it from the gun. The only sure way to tell if there is an adhesion problem is some months later when mold creeps out onto the silicone. Good idea to clean the surfaces FIRST with wax and grease stripper, acetone or similar.
I like to apply the silicone, wet finger thoroughly, smooth the silicone so as to ensure it adheres everywhere, THEN spray area with the detergent water, and then use a shaped tool to strike the excess off.
Bit of a knack to that too, so as not to get silicone everywhere, and I mean everywhere.
Ive been doing it for 30 + years , never pushed the gun, but it does make sense.
Definitely going to try pushing next time.
Must agree with you pushing is the best way to apply caulk or silicone. As you said it pushes it into the joint
Excellent instructions. Thank you very much.
Great tip. Thanks mate. Going to help me seal my caravan.
Thank you ever so much. After all this time of Covid, we’re not having people come into the house. I have to learn to do this myself love your tips
Simple, clear and extremely useful. Thank you!
you just changed my life. Thank you very much brother!!
Love ur videos u make them Short to the point, with easy to follow instructions,!, Thank u! Ur enthusiasm is contagious, u got a great attitude!, very helpful for a DIY r like myself, ur not like all other videos thatTalk and Talk and drag on and on; keep those videos coming Thank u; all the way from Chi town
Maybe the real secret is the friends we made along the way
why not try the caulking sealant tool for free ?
In construction, there are no friends. you must be a real amateur
And what is even nicer is the idea that there are no secrets amongst friends. Keep sharing👍
@@1sydman1 And you sir, must be a complete ass hat... Ka Kite anō....
@@IRISHSALTMINER61 no Im not, Im actually a well off and successful builder that knows the business better than u i think
Dang I have been using a bucket and a sponge for years. This method is much faster and easier. Kind of same concept but no exact. Thanks for great video. I am only painter on a 6k sq ft home with lots of crown mold and double door casing and windows
Spit on my finger is how i’ve always done. No wonder I was always thirsty after work, might have saved my marriage using this spray bottle method.
Worked like a charm. The key was spraying the soapy water on the new caulk and finger before spreading.
So simple so professional well done thanks mate