I'm getting alot of TH-cam messages telling me to text you on apps. I'm not gonna fall for that, but if you wanna let ppl know not to get scammed. Everybody thumbs up this so he sees it to let ppl know. He's to good of a guy to have ppl do this to him!
No problem. Just sad that you can't just do what ya do without ppl trying to take you're name and use it to scam ppl. But I've been following u since less than 1000 subs and well...... on a positive note you have gotten so big on here that you are now one of the ppl they try to use. 😆 so congrats... kinda. Lol
Out of curiosity, the xfl vs xr american bass comparison. Is that a video we can get? I have the xr12 set and blew 1. Debate going to xfl but wanted to see the comparison you wanted to do like a year or 2 ago.... would be a great video.... n I know the xfl is you're favorite budget sub... part of the reason I thought of going to those. ( plus they have recone kits where xr doesnt )
@@ParkerTheBasshead be more specific in your post and videos about the giveaways, let people know that this is the only account you will contact the winner from. or whatever account you use.
Great info to share. When I was a teenager in the mid 90’s information about ohm loads etc were not readily available everywhere. Because of that I bought the wrong subs for my amp. Live and learn. Still an old basshead.
Did a 143 on stock alt ( did add a 2nd lead acid batt) with 2 audiobahn aluma12s on a 1100watt orion (subs) 300w orion on highs and mids all 4ga wiring. This was back in 02 03 and vehicle was an extended cab Dakota. I REALLY miss how clean that system was. Love your videos bro
Hey Parker I’ve watched all your videos since the first time I saw you about a year and a half ago. I think it would be awesome if you did a whole series of stock electrical car audio. It would bring new beginners to car audio to your page as well. Not trying to make you do things I want I just think your the coolest to be able to do it 😊
Glad you went with American Bass rather than kicker or fosgate. American Bass XFL,HD OR Hawks are very underrated, underutilized. Everyone runs to the big names when these guys can do everything the big boys can do for less $$$..
this is a awesome video. reminds me of my first setup after being away from it for over 10 years. I had 2 kicker comps on a quantum Audio 2k. after about a week the addiction kicked in and I worked a lot of overtime and saved every penny to build a system with 4 db drive wdx g3s on a soundigital evox 12 with double runs of 1/0 350 Ohio generator alternator still have the quantum Audio 6x9s and tweeters on a sundown 200x4 channel amp and haven't had the money to switch to lithium but using 10 1000 energize super cell AGM batteries and a energize 2400 AGM battery. box rise is killing me. I'm only getting lil over 7k out of my amp but doing a 154.2 at 42 htz
I bought the 2 sundown e10 kit for my car. 2019 Hyundai Accent with the big 3 done and a custom box. Does great for what I want and need, still leaves some space in the trunk and can give more than enough bass for daily needs.
Man this is great content. So many new guys have so many questions and want to know what will work good together. You've put together a solid system for minimal money! Great job man!
To me this is so much more practical and interesting for the majority of us. I go to all the bass shows and 150s up is always impressive but USUALLY not musical. I'd rather have a great sounding system instead of a numbers machine
@@dooflydetailguuy4349 like you know me. I've had a 154 db tahoe. And I got enough to buy whatever the f I want. Stay in your lane homeboy. Don't try to be another internet thug
@Mike White mf always jumping on another mf comment ..like how he know wtf u can afford..tell em put his system up if he even got one..lls..me personally yea I like all the hair tricks but sometimes it's jus too much..I like to bass but also hear clear clean music..
I built a good budget system a couple years ago: 4 Sundown E12v3 D2’s at one ohm final load on a Sundown SIA3500d. 2 agm batts and a 500farad supercap bank and 300a alt. Got my subs and amp from the yardsale and shopped around for best deals on wire and all needed tools and accessories. I paid for a professional enclosure design but built and wrapped it myself as well as wiring installing everything. I scored 149db sealed on the dash legal score and was very satisfied with that for having around $1000 in the bass side of the build. Great video Parker!!
Down 4 sound is having a sell on all skar audio.. I just purchased 3 ix 10s for 105 shipped.. I'm gonna pick up a harmony amplifier 800.1 for 160 on Amazon and build a sealed enclosure for it.. I'm excited to get working... 🤙 I know a ported enclosure is louder but I want the controlled flat subsonic frequencies. 🤫
Sealed enclosures always have a tighter bass in my opinion. Not sloppy bass like many ported boxes. The main issue with sealed enclosure is they require more wattage to get the speakers moving as opposed to ported or have a passive radiator Installed .
@@Mr.Robert1 I have a 6.5 massive audio sub with 2 dayton audio 6.5 passive radiators tuned around 38hz, and it sounds incredible for it's size. It does leave a little to be desired.. me being a old school bass head craving that 32hz - 28hz range.
Everyone has to start somewhere when it comes to bass, glad to see you doing builds like this for the noobs Parker!! My first build was a single 12 inch Kicker Comp Q and Kicker amp then went to a single Alpine Type R and a PDX M6 which lead me to where I'm at now with a Rockville Destroyer 12 D2 on a Belva BB5000 after blowing a Sundown Xv2 10. Bass is the essence of life's rhythm.
Parker.. U should do a video/comparison on the performance differences between a car with a factory electrical system vs. A properly upgraded electrical system! Id love to see the watt/amp dif.. All your videos are great btw. Keep it up
There's also another thing, say that a given subwoofer enclosure suitable for the subwoofer driver, if that driver is replaced with a more efficient subwoofer driver (electrically and mechanically) of the same dimensions in the same box using the same amplifier, it will produce better sound, more headroom and without as much stress compared with the one replaced.
I have a budget system at the moment 😂 db machete 12 1600watt dual 2 ohm wired at 1 ohm on a pioneer gm-d8701 single channel monoblock 1ohm stable with 4 gauge wiring, it has cost me so far $650 aud because i already had an old box that i refurbished, budget isn’t always a bad thing it’s actually cost effective to have a budget system
Budget is my motto lol I have had my audiopipe 2k for a few years and had a single 15” L7 kicker up until this year in May, I upgraded to 2 zvx 15s. I’ve slowly just added and added to my setup. Got a 270 amp alt, 2 stock batteries, and all sky high 0 gage double runs of both pos and neg now! Took a few years to get to this point but hey I’m happy with it!
Hmm… question! So I’m eyeing up a 15” Skar bass package, and I’m wondering if I’ll have to upgrade my alternator/add a second battery. I don’t think I will, since it’s a 600W RMS sub (1200W peak power), and it’ll be in a 2021 Ram 1500 Limited with eTorque. Basically I’m just wondering if I have enough power for it without adding anything else I should add I’ve been watching a boatload of videos, but I’m still very new here
Efficiency of the subwoofer and amp is key to getting your money's worth when you have stock electrical. If I was building a budget system I'd want 2 12" or 2 15" 500-700watt rms subs that had +90 sensitivity with a 1000-1500 watt Amp that was as efficient as I could get.
Check out Down4Sounds JP8! I’ve been using Skar RP800 and their factory enclosure with (1) 10” SDR DVC2 then I swapped the sub for the Skar 10” SVR DVC2 running at 1 ohm because I had plans to get the JP8 that pulls less current and puts out ALOT of power plus so many cool feature like plexi bottom, cooling fan, bass knob with clip light too many to list. I was really impressed! I read so much online about the JP series I had to give it a try. I ordered the JP8 which is a 800 watt amp VERY capable of so much more that in my factory 20’ Civic with factory alternator and a new Interstate battery and I just couldn’t believe the difference in these two amps!(day&night) I’m a fan of both the Skar RP800 (works great) and JP800 for The Skar SVR 10” DVC2 handles the power from both amps well so far. Thanks to @BigDWiz for the info and Down4Sound for the amp!#🔊❤️@Down4Sound@BigDWiz@skaraudio@cOcOasauce
I agree, I would spend some money on sound deadening material and put that on all the large thin flat metal and plastic panels in the vehicle. This will make the vehicle sound better with less power. The other side benefit to doing this is a lot less road noise. I think the other main area I would spend time on would be researching and building a proper box. The box can make or break a system and how the ports are arranged and the direction the subs fire is important to get the most out of it.
@@davidbrennan5 Definitely agree with you that sound deadening will make a big difference. I spent more on sound deadening in my truck than the system I got later so I didn't count it as part of the system lol. I have sound deadening paint on the external floor, firewall, and every panel inside the cab. There's a jute mats on the floor, rubberized adhesive pads in the back of the cab, and I have more pads for the roof when I finally get a headliner.
@@c0c0asauce Hey, i just bought an used 2000wrms amplifier(4000peak) at 1ohm stable and wondering what subs to get for it. Im leaning towards two 12s or 10s becouse i want to have a sort of smaller setup but also want to keep my elektrical as stock as possible. What would be a good option?
@@tobias2310 You first have to decide how much space you want to give up for the subs. You gotta get subs that can take advantage of the space you have and that will help narrow your options. Your stock electrical probably won't support 2000rms continuously. Some 1000rms subs would last forever but you will never push them as hard as they were designed for. I would get some 650rms subs. You will be able to push those pretty good on stock electrical and if you upgrade your electrical they will handle the extra power without having to upgrade. If you want to buy new subs a good budget option would be some CT sounds Tropo 10s. If you want more SQ and you got the cash then a pair of DB drive SPW10s are going to sound really good. If you can find some lightly used Rockford Fosgate P2s you might be surprised at how hard they hit and they are happy to play in just about any kind of enclosure.
I found 2 old ass kicker CVR 15s on Craigslist for $150. I bought a taramps smart 3K for $270 and I hit 147 DB on stock electrical in a prefab box. I love budget bangers!!!
Bro those things were getting down!!!! Dayum! Slap slap! Love this man , I have a budget system in my work truck, all d4s 6.5 on head unit power , a top gear strong amp on a skar pre fab 8 box and man I love it, not like my old days of 6 12s in a jeep but def gets down, doing a single 12 in gfs car next . Doing all ds18 highs and mids and either skar or ct sounds 10 😊
CT sounds go that way brother I have the tropop 12 hooked up to a Rockford fosgate r 750 1d or whatever and it absolutely pounds I also have the strato 12 at 1250 RMS but I have to build a new box for that but long story short CT sounds over skar any day of the week fosho
Yes, me and my girlfriend love your Sunday videos. Parker, you make me jealous because first you look like you are having so much fun and you make her smile and laugh more than me lol! We're down for whatever, we are here every Sunday love ya bro!!!!!!!!!!!!!!🤟🤟
Everyone hates skar but honestly 2 years ago i got a skar kit with a 12 inch SDR for $300 that came with a 800w rms amp, i blew the sdr pretty quick but immediately replaced it with the svr and have not had a problem since.. i plan to upgrade it eventually but it honestly has sounded so good ive spent my time and money on replacing all my speakers with kappas, getting a dsp, sound deadning, an 800w 4 channel amp, big 3, etc people always think i have wayy more in my trunk than what i actually do. The point is you can get a super cheap budget build that actually sounds decent and just add improvements to make it sound much better and prolonging it
Hook up the 8k to them. I have the same subs but the version 1 series that doesnt have the ribbed surround. Interested to see what kind of gains you would get jumping to the 8k.
The truth is. If you purchase speakers that have a good sensitivity rating then you don't need a ridiculous amount of wattage in order for them to sound loud and clear. On the other hand if you going to go out and buy a speaker because you like the way it looks or you like the price without any knowledge about it you may be forced to get an amplifier with mega wattage in order to get these speakers moving. Just one simple fact. Nice systems out there with one 8 inch woofer in a proper box providing enough base for music not a base contest. Same thing goes for he mids and highs. Name brand, efficient speakers amplifiers and proper installation. I had a friend that got a good 15inch woofer. He did not have the room for it. He mounted it in a box that was way to small and it had no low end at all.
I believe you when you say cone area is everything. I've run 10's since early 90's because I thought 12's and definitely 15's were slow and not musical. I recently got myself a 13w7 and put it on a RF1500 diet. The bass is so effortless and powerful. On the freeway going 85 with all the windows down, I'll feel my insides not feeling right and it brings the biggest smile to my face. I'm on team as big as you can get dude!
With mine I gotta upgrade alternator and battery, runnin 2500 watts on 2 Skar SDR-12s stock electrical. Does good but at around 28Hz and below it starts dropping voltage. Amp is a power acoustik 2500watt mono block and a planet audio head unit
So I was able to purchase two l7s in a box with a 1200 watt kicker amp and a wiring kit that only cost $600 granted the box was massive and takes up the whole trunk of my Lincoln LS butt hits absolutely amazing and needed a second battery just to keep the lights from dimming crazy a high Farid cap is recommended with it
Parker I enjoy your videos, didn't think I could afford to get back into car audio but I see there's quality products out there that a working man can afford I'm going bassing again!
Often times I end up watching one of these right after they come out because I stayed up all night lmao. It be 8 am currently and this will be my last video for the "night" Love you bro, truly an inspiration am go sleep loool. Goodnight! (In like 15 mins)
I have a excursion 2k running a single 12 on 800w rms @2 ohm and i added 2 mids of 200w rms each and a single 100w supertweeter, total would be around 1300w and to produce it, assuming i have class ab amplifiers cuz i like more how they sound so they have 70% efficiency so it would take around 1900w real watts of power and i havent tested yet if it would work for a extended period of time, what simple upgrades would you recomend me??
@@josemanuelguerrero115hi I would use welding cable as it is 100% oxygen free cable because of the current on a mig or tig welder and it will be a lot cheaper to buy and do the big 3/4 because in my car when the bass comes in my head lights was flickering and it stop after fitting the welding cable as extra earth cable in the engine to as meny places as possible and do sound deading as well it will help the car to have less road noise and I don’t have a garage it will done on my drive way so I could only do the sound deading when it is a dry day
If y put taramps smart 3k what cain of electrical y need. all ready have a big tree secudary battery super cell 1600. ofc 4 gauge wire american bass 4000 w amp 2 ,12 sub american bass 1244 elite do i need more power for the taramps smart 3k thanks.
I don't know how to say this, but What? I have a pb of 144.8 @ 39hz on a singel 18" in a poorly designed musical box clamping 580w rms. My buddy does 143db on a factory 2x12 RF p2 with a Rf 1200.1 (o Probably no way near the 1ohm 1200watt.. )
There's an old TH-cam video with a Blazer, single facing Fi 18" sub and (forgot the wattage but wasnt much) that thing is skating gas stations, awnings, etc. It doesn't take much at all.
I was just talking to someone about this. 800-1000 rms for 2 subs in a custom box is more than most people need. I built a full system for my wife's car with Lc2i for $400. Does 140s and it's more than she will ever need.
may I suggest a full Deaf Bonce version of this type of budget build and instead of beefing up on the sub side, running slightly over rms on something more efficient.. maybe 2 Machete Light 15s? "Thx for the awesome content Parker! 🤘🇨🇱 TX fks withcya lol.. Keep up the great work bro."
Also super cool to see you jump back in the sequoia , same for big d using the gateley 12 in that sick box. All about the roots baby, would love to see a wrx video next dude 🇺🇸🇺🇸🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
I got a skar sdr 15 that came with the amp, wires ect for like 500 bucks on amizon and it hits damn good down at 14 hz it looks like it sounds about the same as the 2 in the video and taps out my phone speaker.
Dude Rockville has a k6 8” subwoofer and now a Punisher 8” subwoofer ones $60 the others only $115. I’d love to see you test these out to see if they are a budget hit or not. They both looks good.
2:25 I've actually had a single SPL SP 15 back in 2014 that was dual 4 ohm. Wired down to 2 Ohm and the pickup truck I had this in, it would die at a stop sign if it was flexing down to 20 or 30Hz Playing Gorilla Zoe's tracks. Not only did I have more than 1 battery under the bench seat in my extended cab, I also had a 5 Farad capacitor which was unheard of in 2014.... When I tried a single lead on 4 ohms, as well series up to 8 ohms the truck would be fine. Even though it wouldn't push as hard. I don't think lower impedance means less power, I'm pretty sure lower impedance needs more power. So the sub gets more power from the amp, and the amp requires more juice from DC power. If your system is running 8 or 4 ohm's you can get some beats out of 2 12's on 1000 watts and still sound good. But power is a must, reliability as well. Most vehicles "as is" should be able to support 4 ohm systems without special mods, or extra sources of power such as more alternators. I'm pretty sure its reversed, the lower the ohms the more power you will need, because amps off of Walmart shelf's wont go lower than 4 ohms and the ones that do support 1 or 2 ohms require capacitors, battery banks, or a secondary source of power. I am not here to correct this man in his videos, I watch them from time to time because I have loved car audio for many years as well very interested to see what he does in bass building projects. But I will be the one to say that anything lower than 4 ohms will require more stable and source able power, lower the ohms the more power you will need. This is coming from someone who had a 5k amp back then that supported 2 ohms, well before 1 ohm was ever a thing.
In about the year 1999, I learned a 600 watt capable Harmon Kardon TC600 and a single Cerwin Vega Stroker 15 in 5 cubic feet tuned to 35hz will do 140db on the glass with the windows up on a Termpro mic...
I’m on stock 130a alt with big 3 and an xs power d1200 battery 0 gauge ofc. 2 sundown sa v2 12’s in a d4s profab box running on a synergy WFO 35.1D at 1ohm. Runs around 145db full tilt voltage drop into the 12’s. Not exactly budget but hey it’s on stock alt!
So what would you recommend for an Amp in a 2002-06 Honda CRV running on a stock 90~100 Amp Alternator with a 1000 CA Red Top Optima Dry Cell Battery? A 1500 Watt D•1 or 2000 Watt D•1 Amp? (Running either 2 18" EVLs, or possibly 2 18" CT SOUNDS Tropo's???) As of right now the setup im picking up will be (2) 18" SDR SKARS (650w RMS each) ATM, that come with a 2000 Watt Amp SKAR 2000•D1 Amp... The Box I will be having the (2) 18" SKAR SDR in will be a 4.6ft³ (which is EXACTLY what these subs need and call for) so 9.2ft Total Interior Air Volume space tuned to 29Hz The problem with 02-06 Honda CRV's is they have the ELD (Electronic Load Detector) underside the Fuse Box so will most likely have to bypass it or remove it from the system... Otherwise if I do Run into issues would adding a Capacitor be a great solution? I definitely don't want to add extra Batteries and have all that extra heavy weight in the CRV, but adding a Capacitor or upgrading the Alternator I'm ok with down the road (just not an Alternator at the moment if I can Help getting away without it, 😁) another problem I'm having is finding a ln upgraded 200 Amp Alternator for the CRV! Who should I look into buying an upgraded Alternator and Capacitor from???
I had issue with the tramps and sound digital 1600 couldn't push my american bass elites for more than 10 minutes with out cutting out. Put in the audiopipe 1800 and now we're good. No issues. The audiopipe sound better too
Got a CT 10 strato on a 3k tar amp and flash sale was 159 for sub and 60 for the box and not bad for just over 400 bucks and I sold all my RF gear and still money left over and it slams harder than my expensive RF gear!
I’ve got a mud toy that’s a jeep no back seat I had 2 10s on a skar 2500 and it thumps good but after a motor swap to a 350sbc I just can’t hear it as much any recommendations? I’m willing to run an aux battery or another alternator I just want something that I can hear the lows good.
I got a budget system right now some SoB stole my last system I'm currently running a Skar 1200rp with one EVL 15 in a single cab Toyota wired to 1 ohm may hook up another 12 wired to .5ohm and let it eat
I have a question, I have a similar system of 2 15”s on 1500w. Im wondering if the bursts can blow your amp or subs because i would like to meter it, also what app or software are you getting the burst frequencies from?
I've got a American bass hawk 15 wired to 2 ohm, on a ct sounds 2000.d mono, at 2 ohm that amp puts out 1250 rms, and I've 2400 watt amp, at 4 ohm x 4 channels its 400 rms per channel going to 4 6x8 kenwood performance series door speakers on a stock f150 alt and if I'm driving I very rarely go under 13.5 volts and that's usually at a pretty good volume.
Great vid. Numbers may be a bit low, but those subs could easily handle some more power if you expand your budget in the future. A 2000 watt amp may have got a 140 an still been ok electrically assuming the stock electrical isn't horrible as some vehicles are. I've had pretty good luck running 2k amps on stock electrical with minimal upgrades, maybe a big 3. That usually gives enough to run 2k/2.5k once again assuming the vehicle has a somewhat decent stock alt. Hope to see more videos like this! I love my more expensive gear, but ive always had a passion for loud lower budget systems. It might sound silly , but i wouldn't mind seeing how loud an how good a complete boss system could sound. Yes their numbers are an out right lie, but can it still get loud an sound good on the cheap?
I want to upgrade. I was recommended to get taramps. I don't know much. So if I want to add four 10" eminence to the existing four 8" I already have. What taramps amplifier should I get
I have two of those same 15's(they bang hard)on a stestom 3k digital bass but they make the amp go into protection mode after they been banging for a while but when I borrowed a kole audio 5500 amp to try it won't go into protection mode like with the stestom 3k
How come my sequoia don’t have turn signals inside the mirror. I got a limited 😢. I love bass and I’m glad we both own the Same car. You earned a subscription
Funny stuff, I just bought this exact Amp, it was recommended at the store, Hooked it up, haven't tune it yet, But I am happy.. Not trying to shake the Ground, but to have good base, and it does the job, and I have 2 /12" trash 300watts rms 1.2kwatt peak.. Thinking on getting that AP2bd2 you like so much, for what I've seen in your videos for $100 ... 2 / 12" of those with this amp, could be right.
Hey can you recommend something for my toyota coaster bus. I have two 12" subs and four 8" midrange. My subs are 400 watts each. And my four 8" midrange are eminence
I'm really happy you used this amp, I have one and used it with an American bass xr12, which I bought cause of your video on it however I experienced some problems, nothing major but can you share your settings on your amp cause I had to raise the gain all the way up to get it loud and experiencing soft clipping. It's a good amp don't get me wrong but rather the Audiopipe APCL 1500 which I eventually swapped it with cause it has a bass knob. Anyways I understand with the taramps there's no electrical upgrade needed but just sharing my experience. Definitely have to use a secondary battery or ultra capacitor now. Thanks again for your awesome videos keep 🔊 on.
Yeah I used to have an APCL!! Definitely an awesome amp. Only reason I’m getting some decent though with this Taramps is because I’m on 2 15s so way more cone area than a 12
The best thing about the taramps is it only draws around 45 amps of current which doesn't really strain your stock electrical. So I understand what your saying about cone area and for a little amp it does get loud but like what you said everyone's definition of what's loud varies. Thanks for your prompt reply. Your videos keeps all of us going and striving to get bigger and louder. Thanks buddy .
I switched to APCL Better and gets pretty loud, setting off car alarms when I go by. Have a Kenwood KMM-B238 head unit. Next project ultra cap install helps my other build keeps current and voltage stable, bass booming and shaking things lol. Skar audio VXF bought cause of another of your videos which was my favorite. Anyways don't want to keep rambling so thanks again for sharing your experiences and giving us countless budget builds. We all appreciate what you're doing 🔊 on dude!!
And unless you're trying to use your car as a sound system for a rave or something, there just isn't much point... That is unless you're always bumping 90+ decibels and decimating your hearing in the process.
@phorty2 yep, and quality only matters if you are into needing it to sound like a studio. I got some AudioFrog speakers used, and they are studio quality. It is nice, but it is definitely not a necessity.
little tiney amp does pretty good looks like the box is tunned low they way i like it might not do numbers but dropping those lows that rittz song one of my favs im running the biggest wolfram 300 ounce 12s 2000rms 3 of them on a taramp 12k does a 150 in a 2003 buick lesabre with subs face tords back think i could get a 153 if i turned subs around and ajust vent for higher bass but thinking on going to a hatch car and ad the forth sub in and go with 2 amps
If you wanna get loud on stock electric. Look for subs that have a high efficiency. Pair with efficient amplifier. And tune your system to work well with the vehicle
Got a refurbished kit off Amazon for $340. Full wiring kit 4g kicker cxa800.1 factory certified to 915 watts. And a kicker compr on ported box.. have had issues with the comp R taking just 400w rms wo burning up.. recently opted for a scar evl in the factory scar 2.0 cub box. $339 but can sell the kicker with box for $200 all day and then some.. so I’m $480 in.. spent about $120 on matting and did everything.. 12mil Matt.. I was peeking 140 on certain tracks with the comp R off just 400.. Turned the amp up and per multimeter I’m pushing 1100watrs out of this little cxa amp and I’ve still got no distortion so no clue how they rated it at 915? I’m punishing 142-143 on music all day every day off a single evl in factory box off just a cxa800.1 and 4 gauche power with 80amp fuse. Passenger seat down and all 4 windows down 3” or soo.. but she’s banging for a single 12.. wish I could go duals and upgrade the amp and wires but I got real life stuff to haul daily for youth football. Even with 18cubes I barley got room for a single 12 and my gear. But for the box passenger side facing rear and drivers rear seat is down which seems to make for amazing loading off the rear and trunk with all the 12mil matting I put in. Helps this car pushes 14.6-14.8 volts almost all day too. But my xts has perfect loading with one seat down and good power.. I’ve got way less then 1h and just a single 12 and hitting more them most running duals and quads.. with more power and a lot more money.. Hell tbh I was blowing most away with the single compR in the factory box before. But this new evl is way way more.. she hits.. no idea why I is what it is but it is what it is lol. Prob gonna take to a local comp just to push to the limit and embarrass some running so much more then me lol. Haven’t competed in 12 years or more but I’ll promise I’m hitting pretty good for watts to amp per vehicle and based on a single 12. This new gen has no idea how to make real sound wo 0g wires 14 batteries and some knock off 3-5k amps.. I’ll be seeing some of you in my daily around florida soon and you’re all gonna feel pretty dumb for focusing so much on watts instead of more important things when designing a system 😏
Blessings you always are very informative to bad I saw the video now if not I would've bought thise subs for that price Question I have 2-12 kicker Solo-Baric l7 and a 3k Taramp but when either I raise the volume or some type of base comes in my amp goes into protection and the it restarts if I don't lower the volume one or two notches it will go into protection
I have a question in everybody's opinion do u think 12" alpine type Rs are worth the money or is there subs wit more bass better low bass for cheaper or same price I paid $275 for 1 of the newer styles 12" 2ohm dvc
Loudest system I had was 2 1200 watt Audiobahns bridged on an(original). JL 500 mono. Small 94 Celica hatchback.. it banged... Eventually I added another amp, and had a 10" xtant on there as well.
I'm getting alot of TH-cam messages telling me to text you on apps. I'm not gonna fall for that, but if you wanna let ppl know not to get scammed. Everybody thumbs up this so he sees it to let ppl know. He's to good of a guy to have ppl do this to him!
Thanks man! I’ve made some posts and been trying to delete all the scam comments that I’ve seen
No problem. Just sad that you can't just do what ya do without ppl trying to take you're name and use it to scam ppl. But I've been following u since less than 1000 subs and well...... on a positive note you have gotten so big on here that you are now one of the ppl they try to use. 😆 so congrats... kinda. Lol
@@dannystidham2891 haha yessir gotta take the good with the bad!!
Out of curiosity, the xfl vs xr american bass comparison. Is that a video we can get? I have the xr12 set and blew 1. Debate going to xfl but wanted to see the comparison you wanted to do like a year or 2 ago.... would be a great video.... n I know the xfl is you're favorite budget sub... part of the reason I thought of going to those. ( plus they have recone kits where xr doesnt )
@@ParkerTheBasshead be more specific in your post and videos about the giveaways, let people know that this is the only account you will contact the winner from. or whatever account you use.
I have been in car audio for 35 years this is got to be the best car audio video i have seen for beginners ! Keep up the great video coming
Great info to share. When I was a teenager in the mid 90’s information about ohm loads etc were not readily available everywhere. Because of that I bought the wrong subs for my amp. Live and learn. Still an old basshead.
Did a 143 on stock alt ( did add a 2nd lead acid batt) with 2 audiobahn aluma12s on a 1100watt orion (subs) 300w orion on highs and mids all 4ga wiring. This was back in 02 03 and vehicle was an extended cab Dakota. I REALLY miss how clean that system was. Love your videos bro
You smiling in front of the subs hitting is iconic in your videos, it makes me happy seeing how happy it makes you. God bless lol
Hey Parker I’ve watched all your videos since the first time I saw you about a year and a half ago. I think it would be awesome if you did a whole series of stock electrical car audio. It would bring new beginners to car audio to your page as well. Not trying to make you do things I want I just think your the coolest to be able to do it 😊
Glad you went with American Bass rather than kicker or fosgate. American Bass XFL,HD OR Hawks are very underrated, underutilized. Everyone runs to the big names when these guys can do everything the big boys can do for less $$$..
Nice. My first budget build was 2 NVX 12's in a sealed box being pushed by an Ignite R1600. It sounded pretty awesome and very musical
this is a awesome video. reminds me of my first setup after being away from it for over 10 years. I had 2 kicker comps on a quantum Audio 2k. after about a week the addiction kicked in and I worked a lot of overtime and saved every penny to build a system with 4 db drive wdx g3s on a soundigital evox 12 with double runs of 1/0 350 Ohio generator alternator still have the quantum Audio 6x9s and tweeters on a sundown 200x4 channel amp and haven't had the money to switch to lithium but using 10 1000 energize super cell AGM batteries and a energize 2400 AGM battery. box rise is killing me. I'm only getting lil over 7k out of my amp but doing a 154.2 at 42 htz
I bought the 2 sundown e10 kit for my car. 2019 Hyundai Accent with the big 3 done and a custom box. Does great for what I want and need, still leaves some space in the trunk and can give more than enough bass for daily needs.
Man this is great content. So many new guys have so many questions and want to know what will work good together. You've put together a solid system for minimal money! Great job man!
To me this is so much more practical and interesting for the majority of us. I go to all the bass shows and 150s up is always impressive but USUALLY not musical. I'd rather have a great sounding system instead of a numbers machine
No you wouldn't. You just have to say that because you don't have the money.
@@dooflydetailguuy4349 like you know me. I've had a 154 db tahoe. And I got enough to buy whatever the f I want. Stay in your lane homeboy. Don't try to be another internet thug
@@mikewhite4541 😂 ^^
@@mikewhite4541 shut up
@Mike White mf always jumping on another mf comment ..like how he know wtf u can afford..tell em put his system up if he even got one..lls..me personally yea I like all the hair tricks but sometimes it's jus too much..I like to bass but also hear clear clean music..
I built a good budget system a couple years ago: 4 Sundown E12v3 D2’s at one ohm final load on a Sundown SIA3500d. 2 agm batts and a 500farad supercap bank and 300a alt. Got my subs and amp from the yardsale and shopped around for best deals on wire and all needed tools and accessories. I paid for a professional enclosure design but built and wrapped it myself as well as wiring installing everything. I scored 149db sealed on the dash legal score and was very satisfied with that for having around $1000 in the bass side of the build. Great video Parker!!
Dam where did you find all that foe 1000 dollars all the above is beyond budget
Down 4 sound is having a sell on all skar audio.. I just purchased 3 ix 10s for 105 shipped.. I'm gonna pick up a harmony amplifier 800.1 for 160 on Amazon and build a sealed enclosure for it.. I'm excited to get working... 🤙
I know a ported enclosure is louder but I want the controlled flat subsonic frequencies. 🤫
Sealed enclosures always have a tighter bass in my opinion. Not sloppy bass like many ported boxes. The main issue with sealed enclosure is they require more wattage to get the speakers moving as opposed to ported or have a passive radiator Installed .
@@Mr.Robert1 I have a 6.5 massive audio sub with 2 dayton audio 6.5 passive radiators tuned around 38hz, and it sounds incredible for it's size. It does leave a little to be desired.. me being a old school bass head craving that 32hz - 28hz range.
Everyone has to start somewhere when it comes to bass, glad to see you doing builds like this for the noobs Parker!!
My first build was a single 12 inch Kicker Comp Q and Kicker amp then went to a single Alpine Type R and a PDX M6 which lead me to where I'm at now with a Rockville Destroyer 12 D2 on a Belva BB5000 after blowing a Sundown Xv2 10. Bass is the essence of life's rhythm.
Mine was also a Kicker Competition but old school "K" logo ones from like 93/94 lol
@@jaz97 i also had kicker comps from the 90s with phoenix gold amp
Yea I got 2 12 CVRs an them bitches still hit. On a baby kicker amp at that. Once I upgrade the amp shit a be hitting real hard
@Pomona Town Started with a w7 lol that's a good start then and even better deal
Spoken like a true Noob! Lol
Parker.. U should do a video/comparison on the performance differences between a car with a factory electrical system vs. A properly upgraded electrical system! Id love to see the watt/amp dif.. All your videos are great btw. Keep it up
The limiting factor on which subs to get is size of the box... 2 10's in the right airspace will outperform 2 12's that are in too small of a box...
Yes this is very true!!
There's also another thing, say that a given subwoofer enclosure suitable for the subwoofer driver, if that driver is replaced with a more efficient subwoofer driver (electrically and mechanically) of the same dimensions in the same box using the same amplifier, it will produce better sound, more headroom and without as much stress compared with the one replaced.
Yep...I went from an xfl1544 to a pr of ddx10s...and there way louder. Smart3k.
Great video Parker! Always enjoy starting a day with one of your vids, whether its a new vid or an old one. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!!
@@ParkerTheBasshead u think a tamps smart 3 k is to much power for 3 gothic 12s?
@@Ole.red_4.6frmda252 it’ll balance out,they can take power!
I have a budget system at the moment 😂 db machete 12 1600watt dual 2 ohm wired at 1 ohm on a pioneer gm-d8701 single channel monoblock 1ohm stable with 4 gauge wiring, it has cost me so far $650 aud because i already had an old box that i refurbished, budget isn’t always a bad thing it’s actually cost effective to have a budget system
I've got 2 Db machetes, how do you like yours, I love mine
Budget is my motto lol I have had my audiopipe 2k for a few years and had a single 15” L7 kicker up until this year in May, I upgraded to 2 zvx 15s. I’ve slowly just added and added to my setup. Got a 270 amp alt, 2 stock batteries, and all sky high 0 gage double runs of both pos and neg now! Took a few years to get to this point but hey I’m happy with it!
That way it gets stolen or car gets messed up. Won't be out thousands of dollars
@@garymiller652 I have had my audiopipe apmn 2000.1 for 4 years now.
@@garymiller652 audiopipe actually does there own r&d. Makes there own stuff. Not copy or re label stuff from China I fux wit pipes all day
Hmm… question! So I’m eyeing up a 15” Skar bass package, and I’m wondering if I’ll have to upgrade my alternator/add a second battery. I don’t think I will, since it’s a 600W RMS sub (1200W peak power), and it’ll be in a 2021 Ram 1500 Limited with eTorque. Basically I’m just wondering if I have enough power for it without adding anything else
I should add I’ve been watching a boatload of videos, but I’m still very new here
Loving these budget builds bro
Thanks man!!
Says they’re 1200 rms each? So if I have a single 1200 rms amp can I run two or would I need 2400 rms?
Efficiency of the subwoofer and amp is key to getting your money's worth when you have stock electrical. If I was building a budget system I'd want 2 12" or 2 15" 500-700watt rms subs that had +90 sensitivity with a 1000-1500 watt Amp that was as efficient as I could get.
Check out Down4Sounds JP8! I’ve been using Skar RP800 and their factory enclosure with (1) 10” SDR DVC2 then I swapped the sub for the Skar 10” SVR DVC2 running at 1 ohm because I had plans to get the JP8 that pulls less current and puts out ALOT of power plus so many cool feature like plexi bottom, cooling fan, bass knob with clip light too many to list. I was really impressed! I read so much online about the JP series I had to give it a try. I ordered the JP8 which is a 800 watt amp VERY capable of so much more that in my factory 20’ Civic with factory alternator and a new Interstate battery and I just couldn’t believe the difference in these two amps!(day&night) I’m a fan of both the Skar RP800 (works great) and JP800 for The Skar SVR 10” DVC2 handles the power from both amps well so far. Thanks to @BigDWiz for the info and Down4Sound for the amp!#🔊❤️@Down4Sound@BigDWiz@skaraudio@cOcOasauce
I agree, I would spend some money on sound deadening material and put that on all the large thin flat metal and plastic panels in the vehicle. This will make the vehicle sound better with less power. The other side benefit to doing this is a lot less road noise. I think the other main area I would spend time on would be researching and building a proper box. The box can make or break a system and how the ports are arranged and the direction the subs fire is important to get the most out of it.
@@davidbrennan5 Definitely agree with you that sound deadening will make a big difference. I spent more on sound deadening in my truck than the system I got later so I didn't count it as part of the system lol. I have sound deadening paint on the external floor, firewall, and every panel inside the cab. There's a jute mats on the floor, rubberized adhesive pads in the back of the cab, and I have more pads for the roof when I finally get a headliner.
@@c0c0asauce Hey, i just bought an used 2000wrms amplifier(4000peak) at 1ohm stable and wondering what subs to get for it. Im leaning towards two 12s or 10s becouse i want to have a sort of smaller setup but also want to keep my elektrical as stock as possible. What would be a good option?
@@tobias2310 You first have to decide how much space you want to give up for the subs. You gotta get subs that can take advantage of the space you have and that will help narrow your options. Your stock electrical probably won't support 2000rms continuously. Some 1000rms subs would last forever but you will never push them as hard as they were designed for. I would get some 650rms subs. You will be able to push those pretty good on stock electrical and if you upgrade your electrical they will handle the extra power without having to upgrade.
If you want to buy new subs a good budget option would be some CT sounds Tropo 10s. If you want more SQ and you got the cash then a pair of DB drive SPW10s are going to sound really good.
If you can find some lightly used Rockford Fosgate P2s you might be surprised at how hard they hit and they are happy to play in just about any kind of enclosure.
I found 2 old ass kicker CVR 15s on Craigslist for $150. I bought a taramps smart 3K for $270 and I hit 147 DB on stock electrical in a prefab box. I love budget bangers!!!
3K on stock electrical is wild. A 800-1200w rms amp would have sufficed on stock alt and batts bro
Bro those things were getting down!!!! Dayum! Slap slap! Love this man , I have a budget system in my work truck, all d4s 6.5 on head unit power , a top gear strong amp on a skar pre fab 8 box and man I love it, not like my old days of 6 12s in a jeep but def gets down, doing a single 12 in gfs car next . Doing all ds18 highs and mids and either skar or ct sounds 10 😊
CT sounds go that way brother I have the tropop 12 hooked up to a Rockford fosgate r 750 1d or whatever and it absolutely pounds I also have the strato 12 at 1250 RMS but I have to build a new box for that but long story short CT sounds over skar any day of the week fosho
Yes, me and my girlfriend love your Sunday videos. Parker, you make me jealous because first you look like you are having so much fun and you make her smile and laugh more than me lol! We're down for whatever, we are here every Sunday love ya bro!!!!!!!!!!!!!!🤟🤟
Everyone hates skar but honestly 2 years ago i got a skar kit with a 12 inch SDR for $300 that came with a 800w rms amp, i blew the sdr pretty quick but immediately replaced it with the svr and have not had a problem since.. i plan to upgrade it eventually but it honestly has sounded so good ive spent my time and money on replacing all my speakers with kappas, getting a dsp, sound deadning, an 800w 4 channel amp, big 3, etc people always think i have wayy more in my trunk than what i actually do. The point is you can get a super cheap budget build that actually sounds decent and just add improvements to make it sound much better and prolonging it
Hook up the 8k to them. I have the same subs but the version 1 series that doesnt have the ribbed surround. Interested to see what kind of gains you would get jumping to the 8k.
The truth is. If you purchase speakers that have a good sensitivity rating then you don't need a ridiculous amount of wattage in order for them to sound loud and clear.
On the other hand if you going to go out and buy a speaker because you like the way it looks or you like the price without any knowledge about it you may be forced to get an amplifier with mega wattage in order to get these speakers moving. Just one simple fact. Nice systems out there with one 8 inch woofer in a proper box providing enough base for music not a base contest. Same thing goes for he mids and highs. Name brand, efficient speakers amplifiers and proper installation.
I had a friend that got a good 15inch woofer. He did not have the room for it. He mounted it in a box that was way to small and it had no low end at all.
Does anyone have an idea what’ the most I can upgrade the amp with this setup stock electrical
I believe you when you say cone area is everything. I've run 10's since early 90's because I thought 12's and definitely 15's were slow and not musical. I recently got myself a 13w7 and put it on a RF1500 diet. The bass is so effortless and powerful. On the freeway going 85 with all the windows down, I'll feel my insides not feeling right and it brings the biggest smile to my face. I'm on team as big as you can get dude!
8:02 THAT GUCCI HIT DIFFERENT
Watch out. You'll hear his cheeks getting clapped by diddly next 😂😂😂😂😂
With mine I gotta upgrade alternator and battery, runnin 2500 watts on 2 Skar SDR-12s stock electrical. Does good but at around 28Hz and below it starts dropping voltage. Amp is a power acoustik 2500watt mono block and a planet audio head unit
Thank you for doing these videos, they really help the economic minded and gives us great ideas and confidence.
So I was able to purchase two l7s in a box with a 1200 watt kicker amp and a wiring kit that only cost $600 granted the box was massive and takes up the whole trunk of my Lincoln LS butt hits absolutely amazing and needed a second battery just to keep the lights from dimming crazy a high Farid cap is recommended with it
Parker I enjoy your videos, didn't think I could afford to get back into car audio but I see there's quality products out there that a working man can afford I'm going bassing again!
I started on two jl audio w7 12 inch on a boss audio 1500 with the big three and a 220 amp alternator
My favorite kinda vids bro! And yeah let's hook up that 8k and get those bad bois jumpin!
Often times I end up watching one of these right after they come out because I stayed up all night lmao. It be 8 am currently and this will be my last video for the "night"
Love you bro, truly an inspiration am go sleep loool. Goodnight! (In like 15 mins)
Haha that is awesome!
I have a excursion 2k running a single 12 on 800w rms @2 ohm and i added 2 mids of 200w rms each and a single 100w supertweeter, total would be around 1300w and to produce it, assuming i have class ab amplifiers cuz i like more how they sound so they have 70% efficiency so it would take around 1900w real watts of power and i havent tested yet if it would work for a extended period of time, what simple upgrades would you recomend me??
@@josemanuelguerrero115hi I would use welding cable as it is 100% oxygen free cable because of the current on a mig or tig welder and it will be a lot cheaper to buy and do the big 3/4 because in my car when the bass comes in my head lights was flickering and it stop after fitting the welding cable as extra earth cable in the engine to as meny places as possible and do sound deading as well it will help the car to have less road noise and I don’t have a garage it will done on my drive way so I could only do the sound deading when it is a dry day
If y put taramps smart 3k what cain of electrical y need. all ready have a big tree secudary battery super cell 1600. ofc 4 gauge wire american bass 4000 w amp 2 ,12 sub american bass 1244 elite do i need more power for the taramps smart 3k thanks.
I don't know how to say this, but What?
I have a pb of 144.8 @ 39hz on a singel 18" in a poorly designed musical box clamping 580w rms. My buddy does 143db on a factory 2x12 RF p2 with a Rf 1200.1 (o
Probably no way near the 1ohm 1200watt.. )
Very nice video Parker. This should help budget BaSs heads gets started. Where is BasS head kitty?
That box sounds amazing with them subs
There's an old TH-cam video with a Blazer, single facing Fi 18" sub and (forgot the wattage but wasnt much) that thing is skating gas stations, awnings, etc. It doesn't take much at all.
I was just talking to someone about this. 800-1000 rms for 2 subs in a custom box is more than most people need. I built a full system for my wife's car with Lc2i for $400. Does 140s and it's more than she will ever need.
Let's hear em on the 8k!!!!
I might have to do it!!
may I suggest a full Deaf Bonce version of this type of budget build and instead of beefing up on the sub side, running slightly over rms on something more efficient.. maybe 2 Machete Light 15s? "Thx for the awesome content Parker! 🤘🇨🇱 TX fks withcya lol.. Keep up the great work bro."
Audio pipe bdc 4???? How bout 3 bdc4 10inch 2ohm subs in a sealed enclosure for heavy metal? Can you did that Mr Parker?
I've always liked the look of those ribbed surrounds on this American Bass subs 👍
Yes hook them up to the 8k 😁
Mann .. I been on American bass but this video sold me more .. thanks for the walk thru and install
Also super cool to see you jump back in the sequoia , same for big d using the gateley 12 in that sick box. All about the roots baby, would love to see a wrx video next dude 🇺🇸🇺🇸🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
I have a dumb question. If you have 300 w, are you better off with one 12 inch sub, or two 12-inch subs, getting 1:50 each? Which would be louder?
I got a skar sdr 15 that came with the amp, wires ect for like 500 bucks on amizon and it hits damn good down at 14 hz it looks like it sounds about the same as the 2 in the video and taps out my phone speaker.
154db on 2 12" kicker solo classics on a 275w system in 1992. That's how it's done! Top that! Yes I said complete system, 3 amps 275w total
Dude Rockville has a k6 8” subwoofer and now a Punisher 8” subwoofer ones $60 the others only $115. I’d love to see you test these out to see if they are a budget hit or not. They both looks good.
May i know what's the song played on 10:23?
2:25 I've actually had a single SPL SP 15 back in 2014 that was dual 4 ohm. Wired down to 2 Ohm and the pickup truck I had this in, it would die at a stop sign if it was flexing down to 20 or 30Hz Playing Gorilla Zoe's tracks. Not only did I have more than 1 battery under the bench seat in my extended cab, I also had a 5 Farad capacitor which was unheard of in 2014.... When I tried a single lead on 4 ohms, as well series up to 8 ohms the truck would be fine. Even though it wouldn't push as hard. I don't think lower impedance means less power, I'm pretty sure lower impedance needs more power. So the sub gets more power from the amp, and the amp requires more juice from DC power. If your system is running 8 or 4 ohm's you can get some beats out of 2 12's on 1000 watts and still sound good. But power is a must, reliability as well. Most vehicles "as is" should be able to support 4 ohm systems without special mods, or extra sources of power such as more alternators. I'm pretty sure its reversed, the lower the ohms the more power you will need, because amps off of Walmart shelf's wont go lower than 4 ohms and the ones that do support 1 or 2 ohms require capacitors, battery banks, or a secondary source of power.
I am not here to correct this man in his videos, I watch them from time to time because I have loved car audio for many years as well very interested to see what he does in bass building projects.
But I will be the one to say that anything lower than 4 ohms will require more stable and source able power, lower the ohms the more power you will need.
This is coming from someone who had a 5k amp back then that supported 2 ohms, well before 1 ohm was ever a thing.
I usually run 800 to 1200 rms on my systems. The right setup will get you 140s. If you are a diy type guy and have some tools. Great stuff. 👍
In about the year 1999, I learned a 600 watt capable Harmon Kardon TC600 and a single Cerwin Vega Stroker 15 in 5 cubic feet tuned to 35hz will do 140db on the glass with the windows up on a Termpro mic...
I’m on stock 130a alt with big 3 and an xs power d1200 battery 0 gauge ofc. 2 sundown sa v2 12’s in a d4s profab box running on a synergy WFO 35.1D at 1ohm. Runs around 145db full tilt voltage drop into the 12’s. Not exactly budget but hey it’s on stock alt!
So what would you recommend for an Amp in a 2002-06 Honda CRV running on a stock 90~100 Amp Alternator with a 1000 CA Red Top Optima Dry Cell Battery?
A 1500 Watt D•1
or
2000 Watt D•1 Amp?
(Running either 2 18" EVLs, or possibly 2 18" CT SOUNDS Tropo's???)
As of right now the setup im picking up will be (2) 18" SDR SKARS (650w RMS each) ATM, that come with a 2000 Watt Amp SKAR 2000•D1 Amp...
The Box I will be having the (2) 18" SKAR SDR in will be a 4.6ft³ (which is EXACTLY what these subs need and call for) so 9.2ft Total Interior Air Volume space tuned to 29Hz
The problem with 02-06 Honda CRV's is they have the ELD (Electronic Load Detector) underside the Fuse Box so will most likely have to bypass it or remove it from the system...
Otherwise if I do Run into issues would adding a Capacitor be a great solution? I definitely don't want to add extra Batteries and have all that extra heavy weight in the CRV, but adding a Capacitor or upgrading the Alternator I'm ok with down the road (just not an Alternator at the moment if I can Help getting away without it, 😁) another problem I'm having is finding a ln upgraded 200 Amp Alternator for the CRV!
Who should I look into buying an upgraded Alternator and Capacitor from???
I had issue with the tramps and sound digital 1600 couldn't push my american bass elites for more than 10 minutes with out cutting out. Put in the audiopipe 1800 and now we're good. No issues. The audiopipe sound better too
Got a CT 10 strato on a 3k tar amp and flash sale was 159 for sub and 60 for the box and not bad for just over 400 bucks and I sold all my RF gear and still money left over and it slams harder than my expensive RF gear!
Would really like to see 2 12 xfls build
Love the video bro still waiting to see who win the avatar subwoofer bro much love an respect my guy
I’ve got a mud toy that’s a jeep no back seat I had 2 10s on a skar 2500 and it thumps good but after a motor swap to a 350sbc I just can’t hear it as much any recommendations? I’m willing to run an aux battery or another alternator I just want something that I can hear the lows good.
I was able to hit 145.17db @38Hz sealed in my bmw e91. With stock electrical. 2 dd audio 712 in a 5cuft box tuned to 35Hz + dd audio dm2500a
I got a budget system right now some SoB stole my last system I'm currently running a Skar 1200rp with one EVL 15 in a single cab Toyota wired to 1 ohm may hook up another 12 wired to .5ohm and let it eat
Where should i set the high pass and low pass filters to?
So I have 2 jl 15” in my ford f150. They are svc 4ohm. They all of a sudden got quieter. Anyone know what would cause that? I have them on 1500 watts
I have a question, I have a similar system of 2 15”s on 1500w. Im wondering if the bursts can blow your amp or subs because i would like to meter it, also what app or software are you getting the burst frequencies from?
I've got a American bass hawk 15 wired to 2 ohm, on a ct sounds 2000.d mono, at 2 ohm that amp puts out 1250 rms, and I've 2400 watt amp, at 4 ohm x 4 channels its 400 rms per channel going to 4 6x8 kenwood performance series door speakers on a stock f150 alt and if I'm driving I very rarely go under 13.5 volts and that's usually at a pretty good volume.
Great vid. Numbers may be a bit low, but those subs could easily handle some more power if you expand your budget in the future. A 2000 watt amp may have got a 140 an still been ok electrically assuming the stock electrical isn't horrible as some vehicles are. I've had pretty good luck running 2k amps on stock electrical with minimal upgrades, maybe a big 3. That usually gives enough to run 2k/2.5k once again assuming the vehicle has a somewhat decent stock alt. Hope to see more videos like this! I love my more expensive gear, but ive always had a passion for loud lower budget systems. It might sound silly , but i wouldn't mind seeing how loud an how good a complete boss system could sound. Yes their numbers are an out right lie, but can it still get loud an sound good on the cheap?
Yeah definitely some thinks we could do to make it to 140!!
Let's go full boss system he's right
My wimpy stock alt is 100 amps - so say *NO* to 2k watts
I want to upgrade. I was recommended to get taramps. I don't know much. So if I want to add four 10" eminence to the existing four 8" I already have. What taramps amplifier should I get
I ran 2 tnt 12s on a crunch 3000 and built box. For all about 374 before upgrade
I have two of those same 15's(they bang hard)on a stestom 3k digital bass but they make the amp go into protection mode after they been banging for a while but when I borrowed a kole audio 5500 amp to try it won't go into protection mode like with the stestom 3k
As usual great informative video parker. Keep it up!
Thanks man glad you thought so!
I want to know wit box rise how much power this little taramps is putting out.
Do a video on a vfl signature series 12 or 15!!!! PLEASE!!! I JUST GOT ONE AND YOU WILL BE SOO IMPRESSED!!
I got a d2 15 white basket
How come my sequoia don’t have turn signals inside the mirror. I got a limited 😢. I love bass and I’m glad we both own the Same car. You earned a subscription
Funny stuff, I just bought this exact Amp, it was recommended at the store, Hooked it up, haven't tune it yet, But I am happy.. Not trying to shake the Ground, but to have good base, and it does the job, and I have 2 /12" trash 300watts rms 1.2kwatt peak.. Thinking on getting that AP2bd2 you like so much, for what I've seen in your videos for $100 ... 2 / 12" of those with this amp, could be right.
Hey can you recommend something for my toyota coaster bus. I have two 12" subs and four 8" midrange. My subs are 400 watts each. And my four 8" midrange are eminence
I'm really happy you used this amp, I have one and used it with an American bass xr12, which I bought cause of your video on it however I experienced some problems, nothing major but can you share your settings on your amp cause I had to raise the gain all the way up to get it loud and experiencing soft clipping. It's a good amp don't get me wrong but rather the Audiopipe APCL 1500 which I eventually swapped it with cause it has a bass knob. Anyways I understand with the taramps there's no electrical upgrade needed but just sharing my experience. Definitely have to use a secondary battery or ultra capacitor now. Thanks again for your awesome videos keep 🔊 on.
Yeah I used to have an APCL!! Definitely an awesome amp. Only reason I’m getting some decent though with this Taramps is because I’m on 2 15s so way more cone area than a 12
The best thing about the taramps is it only draws around 45 amps of current which doesn't really strain your stock electrical. So I understand what your saying about cone area and for a little amp it does get loud but like what you said everyone's definition of what's loud varies. Thanks for your prompt reply. Your videos keeps all of us going and striving to get bigger and louder. Thanks buddy .
If you have to turn the gain all the way up then you need a better amp or head unit.
I switched to APCL Better and gets pretty loud, setting off car alarms when I go by. Have a Kenwood KMM-B238 head unit. Next project ultra cap install helps my other build keeps current and voltage stable, bass booming and shaking things lol. Skar audio VXF bought cause of another of your videos which was my favorite. Anyways don't want to keep rambling so thanks again for sharing your experiences and giving us countless budget builds. We all appreciate what you're doing 🔊 on dude!!
I got a 138 on the dash from a single 12 on a cab22 2 ohm. It was out the trunk too.
it is wild how much more stuff is involved when you want to shake the car apart versus a normal good sounding system.
And unless you're trying to use your car as a sound system for a rave or something, there just isn't much point... That is unless you're always bumping 90+ decibels and decimating your hearing in the process.
@phorty2 yep, and quality only matters if you are into needing it to sound like a studio. I got some AudioFrog speakers used, and they are studio quality. It is nice, but it is definitely not a necessity.
little tiney amp does pretty good looks like the box is tunned low they way i like it might not do numbers but dropping those lows that rittz song one of my favs im running the biggest wolfram 300 ounce 12s 2000rms 3 of them on a taramp 12k does a 150 in a 2003 buick lesabre with subs face tords back think i could get a 153 if i turned subs around and ajust vent for higher bass but thinking on going to a hatch car and ad the forth sub in and go with 2 amps
This was nice but wish you went with a larger amp. Still if your on a budget this was a great combination between affordability and power output.
whoever is sending the middle finger emoji to people is not Parker! You need to grow the f@#k up!
I plan on getting these subs but i have a single cab and im having alot of trouble trying to get the right mesurments for a blow through box
If you wanna get loud on stock electric. Look for subs that have a high efficiency. Pair with efficient amplifier. And tune your system to work well with the vehicle
I have a 140 amp alternator, is that enough for two 12’s and a 1200 watt amp?
Got a refurbished kit off Amazon for $340. Full wiring kit 4g kicker cxa800.1 factory certified to 915 watts. And a kicker compr on ported box.. have had issues with the comp R taking just 400w rms wo burning up.. recently opted for a scar evl in the factory scar 2.0 cub box. $339 but can sell the kicker with box for $200 all day and then some.. so I’m $480 in.. spent about $120 on matting and did everything.. 12mil Matt..
I was peeking 140 on certain tracks with the comp R off just 400..
Turned the amp up and per multimeter I’m pushing 1100watrs out of this little cxa amp and I’ve still got no distortion so no clue how they rated it at 915? I’m punishing 142-143 on music all day every day off a single evl in factory box off just a cxa800.1 and 4 gauche power with 80amp fuse.
Passenger seat down and all 4 windows down 3” or soo.. but she’s banging for a single 12.. wish I could go duals and upgrade the amp and wires but I got real life stuff to haul daily for youth football. Even with 18cubes I barley got room for a single 12 and my gear.
But for the box passenger side facing rear and drivers rear seat is down which seems to make for amazing loading off the rear and trunk with all the 12mil matting I put in.
Helps this car pushes 14.6-14.8 volts almost all day too. But my xts has perfect loading with one seat down and good power.. I’ve got way less then 1h and just a single 12 and hitting more them most running duals and quads.. with more power and a lot more money..
Hell tbh I was blowing most away with the single compR in the factory box before. But this new evl is way way more.. she hits.. no idea why I is what it is but it is what it is lol. Prob gonna take to a local comp just to push to the limit and embarrass some running so much more then me lol. Haven’t competed in 12 years or more but I’ll promise I’m hitting pretty good for watts to amp per vehicle and based on a single 12. This new gen has no idea how to make real sound wo 0g wires 14 batteries and some knock off 3-5k amps..
I’ll be seeing some of you in my daily around florida soon and you’re all gonna feel pretty dumb for focusing so much on watts instead of more important things when designing a system 😏
I have that same taramp and that same subwoofer what frequency cut did you give it 🔥🔥💪
Do you know of any company that makes amplified alternators for import vehicles. Specifically a 92 Nissan D21
Blessings you always are very informative to bad I saw the video now if not I would've bought thise subs for that price
Question I have 2-12 kicker Solo-Baric l7 and a 3k Taramp but when either I raise the volume or some type of base comes in my amp goes into protection and the it restarts if I don't lower the volume one or two notches it will go into protection
i have a 15” L7 4OHMs i’m trying to set up so since it’s a 4 is that bad?
What's the song at 10:03?
I have a question in everybody's opinion do u think 12" alpine type Rs are worth the money or is there subs wit more bass better low bass for cheaper or same price I paid $275 for 1 of the newer styles 12" 2ohm dvc
N2deep we were banging that song almost 30 years ago. Awesome to still hear it. Stickem B legit was our go to as well.
2 JL Audio 12"s or 1 Skar Audio 15"? Amp is a power acoustic 2500W
What can I do to stop headlight dimming when bass hits?
Loudest system I had was 2 1200 watt Audiobahns bridged on an(original). JL 500 mono. Small 94 Celica hatchback.. it banged... Eventually I added another amp, and had a 10" xtant on there as well.
Lots of great content parker, good seeing the budget builds
Thats not budget. Scar similiar products are more of a budget build.