How Loud Can We Make a BUDGET 1000 Watts Subwoofer System?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
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I'm getting alot of TH-cam messages telling me to text you on apps. I'm not gonna fall for that, but if you wanna let ppl know not to get scammed. Everybody thumbs up this so he sees it to let ppl know. He's to good of a guy to have ppl do this to him!
Thanks man! I’ve made some posts and been trying to delete all the scam comments that I’ve seen
No problem. Just sad that you can't just do what ya do without ppl trying to take you're name and use it to scam ppl. But I've been following u since less than 1000 subs and well...... on a positive note you have gotten so big on here that you are now one of the ppl they try to use. 😆 so congrats... kinda. Lol
@@dannystidham2891 haha yessir gotta take the good with the bad!!
Out of curiosity, the xfl vs xr american bass comparison. Is that a video we can get? I have the xr12 set and blew 1. Debate going to xfl but wanted to see the comparison you wanted to do like a year or 2 ago.... would be a great video.... n I know the xfl is you're favorite budget sub... part of the reason I thought of going to those. ( plus they have recone kits where xr doesnt )
@@ParkerTheBasshead be more specific in your post and videos about the giveaways, let people know that this is the only account you will contact the winner from. or whatever account you use.
I have been in car audio for 35 years this is got to be the best car audio video i have seen for beginners ! Keep up the great video coming
Great info to share. When I was a teenager in the mid 90’s information about ohm loads etc were not readily available everywhere. Because of that I bought the wrong subs for my amp. Live and learn. Still an old basshead.
Hey Parker I’ve watched all your videos since the first time I saw you about a year and a half ago. I think it would be awesome if you did a whole series of stock electrical car audio. It would bring new beginners to car audio to your page as well. Not trying to make you do things I want I just think your the coolest to be able to do it 😊
You smiling in front of the subs hitting is iconic in your videos, it makes me happy seeing how happy it makes you. God bless lol
Did a 143 on stock alt ( did add a 2nd lead acid batt) with 2 audiobahn aluma12s on a 1100watt orion (subs) 300w orion on highs and mids all 4ga wiring. This was back in 02 03 and vehicle was an extended cab Dakota. I REALLY miss how clean that system was. Love your videos bro
To me this is so much more practical and interesting for the majority of us. I go to all the bass shows and 150s up is always impressive but USUALLY not musical. I'd rather have a great sounding system instead of a numbers machine
No you wouldn't. You just have to say that because you don't have the money.
@@dooflydetailguuy4349 like you know me. I've had a 154 db tahoe. And I got enough to buy whatever the f I want. Stay in your lane homeboy. Don't try to be another internet thug
@@mikewhite4541 😂 ^^
@@mikewhite4541 shut up
@Mike White mf always jumping on another mf comment ..like how he know wtf u can afford..tell em put his system up if he even got one..lls..me personally yea I like all the hair tricks but sometimes it's jus too much..I like to bass but also hear clear clean music..
Everyone has to start somewhere when it comes to bass, glad to see you doing builds like this for the noobs Parker!!
My first build was a single 12 inch Kicker Comp Q and Kicker amp then went to a single Alpine Type R and a PDX M6 which lead me to where I'm at now with a Rockville Destroyer 12 D2 on a Belva BB5000 after blowing a Sundown Xv2 10. Bass is the essence of life's rhythm.
Mine was also a Kicker Competition but old school "K" logo ones from like 93/94 lol
@@jaz97 i also had kicker comps from the 90s with phoenix gold amp
Yea I got 2 12 CVRs an them bitches still hit. On a baby kicker amp at that. Once I upgrade the amp shit a be hitting real hard
@Pomona Town Started with a w7 lol that's a good start then and even better deal
Spoken like a true Noob! Lol
Nice. My first budget build was 2 NVX 12's in a sealed box being pushed by an Ignite R1600. It sounded pretty awesome and very musical
Great video Parker! Always enjoy starting a day with one of your vids, whether its a new vid or an old one. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!!
@@ParkerTheBasshead u think a tamps smart 3 k is to much power for 3 gothic 12s?
@@Ole.red_4.6frmda252 it’ll balance out,they can take power!
Loving these budget builds bro
Thanks man!!
Man this is great content. So many new guys have so many questions and want to know what will work good together. You've put together a solid system for minimal money! Great job man!
Parker.. U should do a video/comparison on the performance differences between a car with a factory electrical system vs. A properly upgraded electrical system! Id love to see the watt/amp dif.. All your videos are great btw. Keep it up
I have a budget system at the moment 😂 db machete 12 1600watt dual 2 ohm wired at 1 ohm on a pioneer gm-d8701 single channel monoblock 1ohm stable with 4 gauge wiring, it has cost me so far $650 aud because i already had an old box that i refurbished, budget isn’t always a bad thing it’s actually cost effective to have a budget system
I've got 2 Db machetes, how do you like yours, I love mine
Budget is my motto lol I have had my audiopipe 2k for a few years and had a single 15” L7 kicker up until this year in May, I upgraded to 2 zvx 15s. I’ve slowly just added and added to my setup. Got a 270 amp alt, 2 stock batteries, and all sky high 0 gage double runs of both pos and neg now! Took a few years to get to this point but hey I’m happy with it!
That way it gets stolen or car gets messed up. Won't be out thousands of dollars
@@garymiller652 I have had my audiopipe apmn 2000.1 for 4 years now.
@@garymiller652 audiopipe actually does there own r&d. Makes there own stuff. Not copy or re label stuff from China I fux wit pipes all day
Efficiency of the subwoofer and amp is key to getting your money's worth when you have stock electrical. If I was building a budget system I'd want 2 12" or 2 15" 500-700watt rms subs that had +90 sensitivity with a 1000-1500 watt Amp that was as efficient as I could get.
Check out Down4Sounds JP8! I’ve been using Skar RP800 and their factory enclosure with (1) 10” SDR DVC2 then I swapped the sub for the Skar 10” SVR DVC2 running at 1 ohm because I had plans to get the JP8 that pulls less current and puts out ALOT of power plus so many cool feature like plexi bottom, cooling fan, bass knob with clip light too many to list. I was really impressed! I read so much online about the JP series I had to give it a try. I ordered the JP8 which is a 800 watt amp VERY capable of so much more that in my factory 20’ Civic with factory alternator and a new Interstate battery and I just couldn’t believe the difference in these two amps!(day&night) I’m a fan of both the Skar RP800 (works great) and JP800 for The Skar SVR 10” DVC2 handles the power from both amps well so far. Thanks to @BigDWiz for the info and Down4Sound for the amp!#🔊❤️@Down4Sound@BigDWiz@skaraudio@cOcOasauce
I agree, I would spend some money on sound deadening material and put that on all the large thin flat metal and plastic panels in the vehicle. This will make the vehicle sound better with less power. The other side benefit to doing this is a lot less road noise. I think the other main area I would spend time on would be researching and building a proper box. The box can make or break a system and how the ports are arranged and the direction the subs fire is important to get the most out of it.
@@davidbrennan5 Definitely agree with you that sound deadening will make a big difference. I spent more on sound deadening in my truck than the system I got later so I didn't count it as part of the system lol. I have sound deadening paint on the external floor, firewall, and every panel inside the cab. There's a jute mats on the floor, rubberized adhesive pads in the back of the cab, and I have more pads for the roof when I finally get a headliner.
@@c0c0asauce Hey, i just bought an used 2000wrms amplifier(4000peak) at 1ohm stable and wondering what subs to get for it. Im leaning towards two 12s or 10s becouse i want to have a sort of smaller setup but also want to keep my elektrical as stock as possible. What would be a good option?
@@tobias2310 You first have to decide how much space you want to give up for the subs. You gotta get subs that can take advantage of the space you have and that will help narrow your options. Your stock electrical probably won't support 2000rms continuously. Some 1000rms subs would last forever but you will never push them as hard as they were designed for. I would get some 650rms subs. You will be able to push those pretty good on stock electrical and if you upgrade your electrical they will handle the extra power without having to upgrade.
If you want to buy new subs a good budget option would be some CT sounds Tropo 10s. If you want more SQ and you got the cash then a pair of DB drive SPW10s are going to sound really good.
If you can find some lightly used Rockford Fosgate P2s you might be surprised at how hard they hit and they are happy to play in just about any kind of enclosure.
I bought the 2 sundown e10 kit for my car. 2019 Hyundai Accent with the big 3 done and a custom box. Does great for what I want and need, still leaves some space in the trunk and can give more than enough bass for daily needs.
The limiting factor on which subs to get is size of the box... 2 10's in the right airspace will outperform 2 12's that are in too small of a box...
Yes this is very true!!
There's also another thing, say that a given subwoofer enclosure suitable for the subwoofer driver, if that driver is replaced with a more efficient subwoofer driver (electrically and mechanically) of the same dimensions in the same box using the same amplifier, it will produce better sound, more headroom and without as much stress compared with the one replaced.
8:02 THAT GUCCI HIT DIFFERENT
Watch out. You'll hear his cheeks getting clapped by diddly next 😂😂😂😂😂
Great vid. Numbers may be a bit low, but those subs could easily handle some more power if you expand your budget in the future. A 2000 watt amp may have got a 140 an still been ok electrically assuming the stock electrical isn't horrible as some vehicles are. I've had pretty good luck running 2k amps on stock electrical with minimal upgrades, maybe a big 3. That usually gives enough to run 2k/2.5k once again assuming the vehicle has a somewhat decent stock alt. Hope to see more videos like this! I love my more expensive gear, but ive always had a passion for loud lower budget systems. It might sound silly , but i wouldn't mind seeing how loud an how good a complete boss system could sound. Yes their numbers are an out right lie, but can it still get loud an sound good on the cheap?
Yeah definitely some thinks we could do to make it to 140!!
Let's go full boss system he's right
My wimpy stock alt is 100 amps - so say *NO* to 2k watts
Let's hear em on the 8k!!!!
I might have to do it!!
may I suggest a full Deaf Bonce version of this type of budget build and instead of beefing up on the sub side, running slightly over rms on something more efficient.. maybe 2 Machete Light 15s? "Thx for the awesome content Parker! 🤘🇨🇱 TX fks withcya lol.. Keep up the great work bro."
I found 2 old ass kicker CVR 15s on Craigslist for $150. I bought a taramps smart 3K for $270 and I hit 147 DB on stock electrical in a prefab box. I love budget bangers!!!
Glad you went with American Bass rather than kicker or fosgate. American Bass XFL,HD OR Hawks are very underrated, underutilized. Everyone runs to the big names when these guys can do everything the big boys can do for less $$$..
The truth is. If you purchase speakers that have a good sensitivity rating then you don't need a ridiculous amount of wattage in order for them to sound loud and clear.
On the other hand if you going to go out and buy a speaker because you like the way it looks or you like the price without any knowledge about it you may be forced to get an amplifier with mega wattage in order to get these speakers moving. Just one simple fact. Nice systems out there with one 8 inch woofer in a proper box providing enough base for music not a base contest. Same thing goes for he mids and highs. Name brand, efficient speakers amplifiers and proper installation.
I had a friend that got a good 15inch woofer. He did not have the room for it. He mounted it in a box that was way to small and it had no low end at all.
it is wild how much more stuff is involved when you want to shake the car apart versus a normal good sounding system.
this is a awesome video. reminds me of my first setup after being away from it for over 10 years. I had 2 kicker comps on a quantum Audio 2k. after about a week the addiction kicked in and I worked a lot of overtime and saved every penny to build a system with 4 db drive wdx g3s on a soundigital evox 12 with double runs of 1/0 350 Ohio generator alternator still have the quantum Audio 6x9s and tweeters on a sundown 200x4 channel amp and haven't had the money to switch to lithium but using 10 1000 energize super cell AGM batteries and a energize 2400 AGM battery. box rise is killing me. I'm only getting lil over 7k out of my amp but doing a 154.2 at 42 htz
I don't know how to say this, but What?
I have a pb of 144.8 @ 39hz on a singel 18" in a poorly designed musical box clamping 580w rms. My buddy does 143db on a factory 2x12 RF p2 with a Rf 1200.1 (o
Probably no way near the 1ohm 1200watt.. )
Hook up the 8k to them. I have the same subs but the version 1 series that doesnt have the ribbed surround. Interested to see what kind of gains you would get jumping to the 8k.
Would really like to see 2 12 xfls build
Hmm… question! So I’m eyeing up a 15” Skar bass package, and I’m wondering if I’ll have to upgrade my alternator/add a second battery. I don’t think I will, since it’s a 600W RMS sub (1200W peak power), and it’ll be in a 2021 Ram 1500 Limited with eTorque. Basically I’m just wondering if I have enough power for it without adding anything else
I should add I’ve been watching a boatload of videos, but I’m still very new here
Do a video on a vfl signature series 12 or 15!!!! PLEASE!!! I JUST GOT ONE AND YOU WILL BE SOO IMPRESSED!!
I got a d2 15 white basket
I believe you when you say cone area is everything. I've run 10's since early 90's because I thought 12's and definitely 15's were slow and not musical. I recently got myself a 13w7 and put it on a RF1500 diet. The bass is so effortless and powerful. On the freeway going 85 with all the windows down, I'll feel my insides not feeling right and it brings the biggest smile to my face. I'm on team as big as you can get dude!
I built a good budget system a couple years ago: 4 Sundown E12v3 D2’s at one ohm final load on a Sundown SIA3500d. 2 agm batts and a 500farad supercap bank and 300a alt. Got my subs and amp from the yardsale and shopped around for best deals on wire and all needed tools and accessories. I paid for a professional enclosure design but built and wrapped it myself as well as wiring installing everything. I scored 149db sealed on the dash legal score and was very satisfied with that for having around $1000 in the bass side of the build. Great video Parker!!
Dam where did you find all that foe 1000 dollars all the above is beyond budget
Bro those things were getting down!!!! Dayum! Slap slap! Love this man , I have a budget system in my work truck, all d4s 6.5 on head unit power , a top gear strong amp on a skar pre fab 8 box and man I love it, not like my old days of 6 12s in a jeep but def gets down, doing a single 12 in gfs car next . Doing all ds18 highs and mids and either skar or ct sounds 10 😊
CT sounds go that way brother I have the tropop 12 hooked up to a Rockford fosgate r 750 1d or whatever and it absolutely pounds I also have the strato 12 at 1250 RMS but I have to build a new box for that but long story short CT sounds over skar any day of the week fosho
I usually run 800 to 1200 rms on my systems. The right setup will get you 140s. If you are a diy type guy and have some tools. Great stuff. 👍
In about the year 1999, I learned a 600 watt capable Harmon Kardon TC600 and a single Cerwin Vega Stroker 15 in 5 cubic feet tuned to 35hz will do 140db on the glass with the windows up on a Termpro mic...
So I was able to purchase two l7s in a box with a 1200 watt kicker amp and a wiring kit that only cost $600 granted the box was massive and takes up the whole trunk of my Lincoln LS butt hits absolutely amazing and needed a second battery just to keep the lights from dimming crazy a high Farid cap is recommended with it
I was just talking to someone about this. 800-1000 rms for 2 subs in a custom box is more than most people need. I built a full system for my wife's car with Lc2i for $400. Does 140s and it's more than she will ever need.
Everyone hates skar but honestly 2 years ago i got a skar kit with a 12 inch SDR for $300 that came with a 800w rms amp, i blew the sdr pretty quick but immediately replaced it with the svr and have not had a problem since.. i plan to upgrade it eventually but it honestly has sounded so good ive spent my time and money on replacing all my speakers with kappas, getting a dsp, sound deadning, an 800w 4 channel amp, big 3, etc people always think i have wayy more in my trunk than what i actually do. The point is you can get a super cheap budget build that actually sounds decent and just add improvements to make it sound much better and prolonging it
Very nice video Parker. This should help budget BaSs heads gets started. Where is BasS head kitty?
That box sounds amazing with them subs
Thank you for doing these videos, they really help the economic minded and gives us great ideas and confidence.
Dude Rockville has a k6 8” subwoofer and now a Punisher 8” subwoofer ones $60 the others only $115. I’d love to see you test these out to see if they are a budget hit or not. They both looks good.
As usual great informative video parker. Keep it up!
Thanks man glad you thought so!
N2deep we were banging that song almost 30 years ago. Awesome to still hear it. Stickem B legit was our go to as well.
Also super cool to see you jump back in the sequoia , same for big d using the gateley 12 in that sick box. All about the roots baby, would love to see a wrx video next dude 🇺🇸🇺🇸🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Down 4 sound is having a sell on all skar audio.. I just purchased 3 ix 10s for 105 shipped.. I'm gonna pick up a harmony amplifier 800.1 for 160 on Amazon and build a sealed enclosure for it.. I'm excited to get working... 🤙
I know a ported enclosure is louder but I want the controlled flat subsonic frequencies. 🤫
Sealed enclosures always have a tighter bass in my opinion. Not sloppy bass like many ported boxes. The main issue with sealed enclosure is they require more wattage to get the speakers moving as opposed to ported or have a passive radiator Installed .
@@Mr.Robert1 I have a 6.5 massive audio sub with 2 dayton audio 6.5 passive radiators tuned around 38hz, and it sounds incredible for it's size. It does leave a little to be desired.. me being a old school bass head craving that 32hz - 28hz range.
This was nice but wish you went with a larger amp. Still if your on a budget this was a great combination between affordability and power output.
whoever is sending the middle finger emoji to people is not Parker! You need to grow the f@#k up!
Often times I end up watching one of these right after they come out because I stayed up all night lmao. It be 8 am currently and this will be my last video for the "night"
Love you bro, truly an inspiration am go sleep loool. Goodnight! (In like 15 mins)
Haha that is awesome!
I have a excursion 2k running a single 12 on 800w rms @2 ohm and i added 2 mids of 200w rms each and a single 100w supertweeter, total would be around 1300w and to produce it, assuming i have class ab amplifiers cuz i like more how they sound so they have 70% efficiency so it would take around 1900w real watts of power and i havent tested yet if it would work for a extended period of time, what simple upgrades would you recomend me??
@@josemanuelguerrero115hi I would use welding cable as it is 100% oxygen free cable because of the current on a mig or tig welder and it will be a lot cheaper to buy and do the big 3/4 because in my car when the bass comes in my head lights was flickering and it stop after fitting the welding cable as extra earth cable in the engine to as meny places as possible and do sound deading as well it will help the car to have less road noise and I don’t have a garage it will done on my drive way so I could only do the sound deading when it is a dry day
Parker I enjoy your videos, didn't think I could afford to get back into car audio but I see there's quality products out there that a working man can afford I'm going bassing again!
There's an old TH-cam video with a Blazer, single facing Fi 18" sub and (forgot the wattage but wasnt much) that thing is skating gas stations, awnings, etc. It doesn't take much at all.
Audio pipe bdc 4???? How bout 3 bdc4 10inch 2ohm subs in a sealed enclosure for heavy metal? Can you did that Mr Parker?
Ahhhh Going BACK to the Motel!!👍👍👍👍👍
I'm really happy you used this amp, I have one and used it with an American bass xr12, which I bought cause of your video on it however I experienced some problems, nothing major but can you share your settings on your amp cause I had to raise the gain all the way up to get it loud and experiencing soft clipping. It's a good amp don't get me wrong but rather the Audiopipe APCL 1500 which I eventually swapped it with cause it has a bass knob. Anyways I understand with the taramps there's no electrical upgrade needed but just sharing my experience. Definitely have to use a secondary battery or ultra capacitor now. Thanks again for your awesome videos keep 🔊 on.
Yeah I used to have an APCL!! Definitely an awesome amp. Only reason I’m getting some decent though with this Taramps is because I’m on 2 15s so way more cone area than a 12
The best thing about the taramps is it only draws around 45 amps of current which doesn't really strain your stock electrical. So I understand what your saying about cone area and for a little amp it does get loud but like what you said everyone's definition of what's loud varies. Thanks for your prompt reply. Your videos keeps all of us going and striving to get bigger and louder. Thanks buddy .
If you have to turn the gain all the way up then you need a better amp or head unit.
I switched to APCL Better and gets pretty loud, setting off car alarms when I go by. Have a Kenwood KMM-B238 head unit. Next project ultra cap install helps my other build keeps current and voltage stable, bass booming and shaking things lol. Skar audio VXF bought cause of another of your videos which was my favorite. Anyways don't want to keep rambling so thanks again for sharing your experiences and giving us countless budget builds. We all appreciate what you're doing 🔊 on dude!!
My favorite kinda vids bro! And yeah let's hook up that 8k and get those bad bois jumpin!
I’ve known so many people who buy so much equipment for years and years trying to get more sound when they could’ve upgraded the electrical and had awesome sound and save tons of money. But if you wanna do a budget build know the limitations and try to just be humble and enjoy it cause your budget builds can get expensive if you don’t do your homework. Building your own box is not that hard it’s actually fun cause once you build one it only gets easier and FASTER to do.
I've always liked the look of those ribbed surrounds on this American Bass subs 👍
Yes hook them up to the 8k 😁
You have to show this system hooked to your powerful 8k amplifier!
Yes, me and my girlfriend love your Sunday videos. Parker, you make me jealous because first you look like you are having so much fun and you make her smile and laugh more than me lol! We're down for whatever, we are here every Sunday love ya bro!!!!!!!!!!!!!!🤟🤟
Lots of great content parker, good seeing the budget builds
Thats not budget. Scar similiar products are more of a budget build.
That avater sub is no joke in the right box I have one 12 and that thing shaking my house
I put together a budget system in my 2000 Toyota Corolla that came factory with an 80 amp alternator!
It starts with a $37 AM/FM/media player Belva radio. I already had 2 amps, a 4 channel Kicker and a Down For Sound Shop JP8. From the amps, the front and rear speakers were changed to some very cheap Dual brand 6 1/2” speakers running high pass on the Kicker amp, and these speakers ran $25 for each pair. For subs, I went small. I wanted the subwoofer sound, but I did not want to take up ANY trunk space, plus I wanted to keep it VERY cheap, and I wanted something that was VERY different and clean sounding instead of just loud. So I bought eight 6 1/2” midbass drivers from Partsexpress for $8 each, and they are running in an infinite baffle setup. All total, for everything except for the amps, cost me less than $200!
The subwoofer setup, despite only using 6 1/2” midbass drivers, has useable output down to 25hz. However, at 25hz, excursion is VERY limited so I set the subsonic filter to 30 hz. It hits the low notes really good, thumps tight enough to feel it in your chest, and plays plenty loud enough.
The best part is even with everything cranked, and the air conditioning running, the voltage never drops below 13.5 volts without even doing the Big 3!!
I’ve got a video on my channel showing this little setup.
Btw, the subs are wired a combination of series and parallel for an end impedance of 2 ohms. Due to impedance rise though, each woofer is getting less than 50 watts which helps prevent over excursion.
I try to buy my amp second hand and I buy kenwood as put out more power then the rated power in the manual as it has been tested by big d on you tube
How come my sequoia don’t have turn signals inside the mirror. I got a limited 😢. I love bass and I’m glad we both own the Same car. You earned a subscription
If you wanna get loud on stock electric. Look for subs that have a high efficiency. Pair with efficient amplifier. And tune your system to work well with the vehicle
Says they’re 1200 rms each? So if I have a single 1200 rms amp can I run two or would I need 2400 rms?
Great vidja as always keep it up Parker
I was really hoping you'd pull out some test equipment and show how much amperage it was pulling and maybe even show the real time impedance load that the amp was seeing. 4ga is rated for 70A on a 20 ft run, but only if its copper. You should make it clear to use copper and not CCA.
IMPEDANCE = the alternating current equivalent of direct current RESISTANCE
(how the electrons passing through a wire or electrical component are impeded or resisted, measured in ohms)
OHM= unit of measurement of how difficult it is for electrons to pass through a cable, electrical component (capacitor, inductor, resistor, diode, etc.) or anything else in the circuit
Mann .. I been on American bass but this video sold me more .. thanks for the walk thru and install
My set up is budget as well
I have a used sony dsx300 headunit
Rockville 4 channel 100wx4
Skar 6.5 upfront
Cerwin vega 6.5 in the rear
Rockville db14 1000rms @ 2ohms
Kicker comp r 12s in a kicker box at 2ohms
I still got mine from you making a video few yrs ago lol. They've sat in the boxes of my basement for like 2 yrs now🤣 I paid $125 each for em at that time from Audio Savings website. 🤷♂️
Dang you got them for a steal!!
@@ParkerTheBasshead well, it was a while ago now lol.
2:25 I've actually had a single SPL SP 15 back in 2014 that was dual 4 ohm. Wired down to 2 Ohm and the pickup truck I had this in, it would die at a stop sign if it was flexing down to 20 or 30Hz Playing Gorilla Zoe's tracks. Not only did I have more than 1 battery under the bench seat in my extended cab, I also had a 5 Farad capacitor which was unheard of in 2014.... When I tried a single lead on 4 ohms, as well series up to 8 ohms the truck would be fine. Even though it wouldn't push as hard. I don't think lower impedance means less power, I'm pretty sure lower impedance needs more power. So the sub gets more power from the amp, and the amp requires more juice from DC power. If your system is running 8 or 4 ohm's you can get some beats out of 2 12's on 1000 watts and still sound good. But power is a must, reliability as well. Most vehicles "as is" should be able to support 4 ohm systems without special mods, or extra sources of power such as more alternators. I'm pretty sure its reversed, the lower the ohms the more power you will need, because amps off of Walmart shelf's wont go lower than 4 ohms and the ones that do support 1 or 2 ohms require capacitors, battery banks, or a secondary source of power.
I am not here to correct this man in his videos, I watch them from time to time because I have loved car audio for many years as well very interested to see what he does in bass building projects.
But I will be the one to say that anything lower than 4 ohms will require more stable and source able power, lower the ohms the more power you will need.
This is coming from someone who had a 5k amp back then that supported 2 ohms, well before 1 ohm was ever a thing.
Love the video bro still waiting to see who win the avatar subwoofer bro much love an respect my guy
I wouldn't be running Taramps compared to CT-Sounds. Taramps are known for wanting more than 14.2V to reach the rated power ratings. That doesn't seem a problem with SKAR or CT-Sounds. It's too late in the year now for me to start building up a system, but I'll be going CT-Sounds monoblock with a CT-Sounds Tropo loaded box next year.
I’m on stock 130a alt with big 3 and an xs power d1200 battery 0 gauge ofc. 2 sundown sa v2 12’s in a d4s profab box running on a synergy WFO 35.1D at 1ohm. Runs around 145db full tilt voltage drop into the 12’s. Not exactly budget but hey it’s on stock alt!
I was able to hit 145.17db @38Hz sealed in my bmw e91. With stock electrical. 2 dd audio 712 in a 5cuft box tuned to 35Hz + dd audio dm2500a
I have a soundqubed hdx3 15 wired to a avatar 1200.1 wired at 2 ohms
Loudest system I had was 2 1200 watt Audiobahns bridged on an(original). JL 500 mono. Small 94 Celica hatchback.. it banged... Eventually I added another amp, and had a 10" xtant on there as well.
Yeah buddy we wanna see what those things can handle!!!
Good to hear I might give it a try!
I've got a American bass hawk 15 wired to 2 ohm, on a ct sounds 2000.d mono, at 2 ohm that amp puts out 1250 rms, and I've 2400 watt amp, at 4 ohm x 4 channels its 400 rms per channel going to 4 6x8 kenwood performance series door speakers on a stock f150 alt and if I'm driving I very rarely go under 13.5 volts and that's usually at a pretty good volume.
I had 2 hiphonics Brutus 15in subs on 3500 watt Orion amp. Hit pretty hard and was well under 1k.
In high school I did a budget build with 2 eye candy 15s and a bxi 2610d and that setup slammed. Had less than 1000 into the entire build
I built a small 250w 12” system in my sisters car, there’s currently a small broken 10” that hardly works but still pounds
I got a skar sdr 15 that came with the amp, wires ect for like 500 bucks on amizon and it hits damn good down at 14 hz it looks like it sounds about the same as the 2 in the video and taps out my phone speaker.
I started on two jl audio w7 12 inch on a boss audio 1500 with the big three and a 220 amp alternator
I use a t-line, which can be a great on a budget due to efficiency. I've ran a 1500 rms sub on 400 watts and was more than enough power in that box and it sounds awesome it hits lows highs and everything in between or you can tune it to hit however. This setup is just as loud as my 12in phoenix gold elite on 3000 watts. Only downside to t-line is the box for 1 ten looks like it should have a 15 in it.
I had issue with the tramps and sound digital 1600 couldn't push my american bass elites for more than 10 minutes with out cutting out. Put in the audiopipe 1800 and now we're good. No issues. The audiopipe sound better too
How about a video of you driving down the street slumping hella..at the same time showing how the speakers are performing..as well as the reaction of the public.... I'm a Big bass head... although I don't have a set right now..I had a Chevy S10 with 2 audiobahn immortals 15s audiobahn 2400 Hc .... Boston acoustics pro series for highs... Rockford fosgate head unit....then I went with 3 Rockford fosgate 12s to that same amp..... hitting hard Bro.
I wish I could send this to you personally but I started from the bottom and now I have the ability to push top end subs over the limit,and I have very little knowledge on the subject I get my audio knowledge from you Big D XO and MB. In fact my build came from what I learned from you guys and I'm still learning, but quite frankly we are past this point. PLEASE DON'T MISUNDERSTAND!!!!! This is great content and there is definitely a need for it, it's great for many people but I need box design, equipment testing, product reviews, and maximum power testing on high level Amps And Subs. And yes by all means please do hook them up to the 8k
Well if you need it so badly then why not do it yourself? Video everything & post on your channel rather than writing a novel requesting someone else to do the hard work for you.
@@HashDogg06 🤣🤣🤣
Dude American Bass should definitely help you out. I bought a HAWK 15 because of you.
I did a budget build with Soundstream equipment.
The amps work great and the 15 pounds.
I got the sub new for 200 and I couldn't be happier.
Got a refurbished kit off Amazon for $340. Full wiring kit 4g kicker cxa800.1 factory certified to 915 watts. And a kicker compr on ported box.. have had issues with the comp R taking just 400w rms wo burning up.. recently opted for a scar evl in the factory scar 2.0 cub box. $339 but can sell the kicker with box for $200 all day and then some.. so I’m $480 in.. spent about $120 on matting and did everything.. 12mil Matt..
I was peeking 140 on certain tracks with the comp R off just 400..
Turned the amp up and per multimeter I’m pushing 1100watrs out of this little cxa amp and I’ve still got no distortion so no clue how they rated it at 915? I’m punishing 142-143 on music all day every day off a single evl in factory box off just a cxa800.1 and 4 gauche power with 80amp fuse.
Passenger seat down and all 4 windows down 3” or soo.. but she’s banging for a single 12.. wish I could go duals and upgrade the amp and wires but I got real life stuff to haul daily for youth football. Even with 18cubes I barley got room for a single 12 and my gear.
But for the box passenger side facing rear and drivers rear seat is down which seems to make for amazing loading off the rear and trunk with all the 12mil matting I put in.
Helps this car pushes 14.6-14.8 volts almost all day too. But my xts has perfect loading with one seat down and good power.. I’ve got way less then 1h and just a single 12 and hitting more them most running duals and quads.. with more power and a lot more money..
Hell tbh I was blowing most away with the single compR in the factory box before. But this new evl is way way more.. she hits.. no idea why I is what it is but it is what it is lol. Prob gonna take to a local comp just to push to the limit and embarrass some running so much more then me lol. Haven’t competed in 12 years or more but I’ll promise I’m hitting pretty good for watts to amp per vehicle and based on a single 12. This new gen has no idea how to make real sound wo 0g wires 14 batteries and some knock off 3-5k amps..
I’ll be seeing some of you in my daily around florida soon and you’re all gonna feel pretty dumb for focusing so much on watts instead of more important things when designing a system 😏
I'm really in the market for a budget system. I had a 1500 watt sundown audio on 2 sundown audio 12s. Lasted only a year and the amp took a crap. So I just took the 12s out and looking for another build. I have a crown Victoria with a huge trunk.
i believe all panther cars have deepest trunk in their class. i own a 92 towncar myself
I've had this same amp and boy does it push💯🤌
What
One thing you didn't touch on was efficient subs and amps. Check the db rating on your subs. The higher the rating the less power it will take to make your subs sound good. Also check efficiency rating for your amp. If it's not doing 70 percent or higher for a sub amp your really going to tax the stock electrical. Williston Audio Labs will more than likely have an amp Dyno of the amp you want to try and run. Great video as always Parker!
Only in an optimum enclosure, there's a reason why efficiency is lower these day compared to 20 years ago with same size speakers.
I think it matters how good of an electrical system your car car has stock too. My Audi A6 has a 180amp alt stock and a giant agm battery . My wifes new Mazda 3 Grand Touring only has a 100amp alt and a fairly small battery.
I got a 138 on the dash from a single 12 on a cab22 2 ohm. It was out the trunk too.
Hey Parker, can you reach out to Sky High about the Trinity Subwoofer lineup. There is hardly anything out there on them and the 12s are amazing! Thanks for staying consistent over the past 2 years.
I ran 2 tnt 12s on a crunch 3000 and built box. For all about 374 before upgrade
Really appreciate this video I’m a beginner and didn’t want to do the big 3 upgrade, For sound quality and loudness would it be better to do 1 12 at 750 rms or 2 12’s at 400rms each? Cone area or power
Cone area is king im running 4 zvx 8s on a svk 4500 watt amp and a 320 amp singer alternator and 2 batteries in the trunk one under the hood
I got a budget system right now some SoB stole my last system I'm currently running a Skar 1200rp with one EVL 15 in a single cab Toyota wired to 1 ohm may hook up another 12 wired to .5ohm and let it eat
I like the budget build. I need to haul tools and kids in my daily. I did my big $ builds in my younger days. It’s way cheaper to build a budget system in 2022 than in was in 1997 when I started. These days my budget system consists of high performance stuff while reducing weight. My Audi sedan runs a high 11 second 1/4 mile with upgraded turbo and fuel system. So I have a skar 1200.1 and a skar evl8 in a custom ported box tuned to 38hz for lows.
Old school trying Skar. They run on the warm to hot side depending on the wiring and placement. They also draw more amperage from the electrical system.
Unfortunately today most kids are shopping wattage for the money. Not considering any of the other factors involved. Not saying that you should spend a fortune on your build. I just had a lot of experience selling and repairing car audio since the '80s. Reason why Parker has over $1000 in his electrical. Not only because of the amount of wattage he's using. That brand of amplifier he uses Is a pig on amperage draw. Pioneer makes great equipment for the money today. Clear as a bell. Easy on the wallet and runs very efficient speakers, amplifiers and head units.