Wtf…i just got mine delivered 2 days ago.. I have a five speed manual. When I shift gears 1,2 and three I notice it jerks hard forward and it’s giving me the code PO 456 and PO 144A.. The old canister purge valve that was stuck open did not make my car jerk but the new one that I got from Amazon makes my car jerk forward whenever I shift up
@@nylezfuller4746 sorry to hear of that frustrating situation. I usually retrace my steps and first ensure I replugged electrical connections, vacuum houses, etc correctly. Just rule out anything I simply overlooked. I don't usually associate these valves with significant driveability issues like the jerking you describe. But, because EVAP system touches on fuel delivery it's possible I suppose. In any event, the P144A needs resolved. After ruling out electrical and vacuum issues, I would bench test the valve. If you don't have time for return and replacement, most auto parts stores do stock these locally for only a bit more than the Amazon price. Again, sorry you're having to deal with this.
Great video i have 2014 aswell no check engine light only "check fuel inlet" cleaned it w wd40 unplugged the battery reset and after a month light came back on and when i gas up pump keeps clicking off. Mechanic wont touch unless check engine light is on but its been like that for months im definitely going to try this!
@@jenniferweigner1436 some cars have a poor filler neck design and you have to slowly fill to keep from kicking off. But if your vehicle never had this problem until suddenly it did, that indicates something changed in the filling or venting. The filler neck path should be checked for kinks and the vent path, including charcoal canister, should be checked for free air flow.
I did all that and still getting the code. What's the name of the hose, maybe I can change that next? I can't find the name of that hose anywhere I search for it.
Hi Chris, if you've worked through fuel door, fuel cap, and purge valve, I would suggest putting a smoke machine ($120 on Amazon) on the system. The escaping smoke will reveal the specific hose, connector or fitting that is leaking. There's some good TH-cam content on smoking the EVAP system that will help you. And, as always, I also recommend factory workshop manuals as a guide for these situations.
Great video. Thank you. The seal on my capless gas lid seems intact but the part itself appears loose and shifts a bit where it is connected to fuel door. Is that my most likely culprit? I did the WD-40 and ragged it clean and cleared the CEL so am in waiting period right now to see if it returns. But guessing that seal shouldn't be shifting where it connects to the fuel door.
Ey Chad, if you mean the little metal "door" on the capless system that should feel pretty sturdy. My two Fords have the very slightest play of maybe 0.5mm to 1mm when poked at with a finger. But no side to side play (just in/out) and generally feel sturdy. Truest test will always be smoke machine.
@@KentForrest Yeah, fuel door. The seal itself seems intact but that part shifts a little from side to side where it connects to the fuel door. It moves left-to-right, more than a couple mm. It does not move up and down. So my guess is that if that shifts, it's not creating the seal I need and leading to the CEL.
@@chad_hartley because it's fast and so often the culprit, just check the purge valve. Because that's faster and cheaper (free) than using smoke to confirm the door. It's not complex to DIY the smoke test if you're mechanically minded. But most don't own the tool. A decent one will cost ~$125+ for something you will very rarely ever use.
@@KentForrest CEL did return. Just pulled off the hose from the purge valve and that seems fine. No suction on the valve the way your video shows. But the hose that plugs in there doesn't seem in great shape. Outer plastic casing is cracked and there's some sort of tape or wrap near the connection that is unraveling. Not sure if that was standard or an after-market fix by someone along the way. Trying to identify the name of that part.
@@chad_hartley should just be called a canister purge valve hose. And if that's not the official name, I'm sure it's enough for a parts counter guy to work from. He'll know what you mean.
My flex feels like it’s going stall after I fill the tank up. This is the only time it happens. I’m not getting any codes, figured I’d try a $40 fix first. quick question, easiest way to get the green tab quick connect off is with the pick? I feel like I’m going to break it. If I do end up breaking it do you know the part to replace it?
My Flex isn't home at the moment to look at, but there's a few types of quick connects on the Fords and often they require "two movements" to release. There will be prongs to pull out, or a piece to twist, or a place to press, etc. before you pull the quick connect up. Study the fitting a few minutes, and it should become clear to you.
@@Kingdope if not the purge valve, potentially the vent or the canister. That's if I'm understanding symptoms correctly, only having trouble on a full tank, everything is fine once fuel level lowers a bit. That's typically an EVAP system that isn't breathing.
The D7 scanner has saved me much more money in shop fees than the scanner cost. If you have basic mechanical knowledge and a general understanding of how engines work, then there are a lot of good sources via the internet where you can get more training. And then, the most valuable item will be having access to the factory shop manual.
So, basically, if this was the first time using the scanner, he'd already have broken even. He would then have a great tool to use on a bazillion other cars. It doesn't take an advanced degree to use a scanning tool.
Steve, you're much safer using your Year, Make, Model, Engine information as you source the part. When shopping online at Amazon, O'Reilly's, AutoZone, NAPA, Walmart, etc. you have the opportunity to enter this information to ensure compatibility of parts. Also, a phone call to your local Ford dealer parts department with your VIN number can score you the OEM part number. You can then use this to cross reference as you consider aftermarket parts. Always best to do these things for yourself on all parts purchases. Nothing more frustrating than buying and receiving an incorrect part because "some guy on the internet" gave you wrong info for your specific vehicle.
@@KentForrest that make sense. My year was only 1 year off from yours figured it would be the same. My local dealer is closed today. Obviously the car still drives but just wanted to get it taken care of asap. Thank you though.
@@stevecampos1055 give O'Reilly's, AutoZone, NAPA call or use their website. With Year Make Model and Engine (or VIN) they can be sure to get you the correct part number.
This Amazon valve FAILED after a few months. Now buying Motorcraft!
Wtf…i just got mine delivered 2 days ago.. I have a five speed manual. When I shift gears 1,2 and three I notice it jerks hard forward and it’s giving me the code PO 456 and PO 144A.. The old canister purge valve that was stuck open did not make my car jerk but the new one that I got from Amazon makes my car jerk forward whenever I shift up
@@nylezfuller4746 sorry to hear of that frustrating situation. I usually retrace my steps and first ensure I replugged electrical connections, vacuum houses, etc correctly. Just rule out anything I simply overlooked. I don't usually associate these valves with significant driveability issues like the jerking you describe. But, because EVAP system touches on fuel delivery it's possible I suppose. In any event, the P144A needs resolved. After ruling out electrical and vacuum issues, I would bench test the valve. If you don't have time for return and replacement, most auto parts stores do stock these locally for only a bit more than the Amazon price. Again, sorry you're having to deal with this.
@@KentForrest I think the electrical plug-in needs to be replaced that goes to the evap piece
@@KentForrest But I don’t know what it’s called to look it up if it does have to be taken out
@@nylezfuller4746 that's called Canister Purge Valve Connector. What leads you to think that may need replacement?
Dude. I got the same car with the same problem. thanks for taking the time to do this.
Yeah, exactly why I do this is because of how many times someone's TH-cam has helped me. ✌️
Sweet nice tip on how to check the purge valve!
Vacuums don't lie. 👌
Great video i have 2014 aswell no check engine light only "check fuel inlet" cleaned it w wd40 unplugged the battery reset and after a month light came back on and when i gas up pump keeps clicking off. Mechanic wont touch unless check engine light is on but its been like that for months im definitely going to try this!
Is your vehicle "capless" or does it have a traditional gas cap?
@@KentForrest its capless
@@jenniferweigner1436 some cars have a poor filler neck design and you have to slowly fill to keep from kicking off. But if your vehicle never had this problem until suddenly it did, that indicates something changed in the filling or venting. The filler neck path should be checked for kinks and the vent path, including charcoal canister, should be checked for free air flow.
@@jenniferweigner1436 this will help you speak knowledgeably with your mechanic:
th-cam.com/video/cCT8-aOyAbo/w-d-xo.html
@@KentForrest yea it never did it. It started after i repalced the fuel pump relay. I will talk to my mechanic thank you for your help
Excellent video!!
Hey thanks, Tom. I'm super grateful for how much TH-cam has helped me with DIY efforts, so just trying to share back to the community where I can.
I did all that and still getting the code. What's the name of the hose, maybe I can change that next? I can't find the name of that hose anywhere I search for it.
Hi Chris, if you've worked through fuel door, fuel cap, and purge valve, I would suggest putting a smoke machine ($120 on Amazon) on the system. The escaping smoke will reveal the specific hose, connector or fitting that is leaking. There's some good TH-cam content on smoking the EVAP system that will help you. And, as always, I also recommend factory workshop manuals as a guide for these situations.
How does the quick connect disconnect?
Great video. Thank you.
The seal on my capless gas lid seems intact but the part itself appears loose and shifts a bit where it is connected to fuel door. Is that my most likely culprit? I did the WD-40 and ragged it clean and cleared the CEL so am in waiting period right now to see if it returns. But guessing that seal shouldn't be shifting where it connects to the fuel door.
Ey Chad, if you mean the little metal "door" on the capless system that should feel pretty sturdy. My two Fords have the very slightest play of maybe 0.5mm to 1mm when poked at with a finger. But no side to side play (just in/out) and generally feel sturdy.
Truest test will always be smoke machine.
@@KentForrest Yeah, fuel door. The seal itself seems intact but that part shifts a little from side to side where it connects to the fuel door. It moves left-to-right, more than a couple mm. It does not move up and down. So my guess is that if that shifts, it's not creating the seal I need and leading to the CEL.
@@chad_hartley because it's fast and so often the culprit, just check the purge valve.
Because that's faster and cheaper (free) than using smoke to confirm the door. It's not complex to DIY the smoke test if you're mechanically minded. But most don't own the tool. A decent one will cost ~$125+ for something you will very rarely ever use.
@@KentForrest CEL did return. Just pulled off the hose from the purge valve and that seems fine. No suction on the valve the way your video shows. But the hose that plugs in there doesn't seem in great shape. Outer plastic casing is cracked and there's some sort of tape or wrap near the connection that is unraveling. Not sure if that was standard or an after-market fix by someone along the way. Trying to identify the name of that part.
@@chad_hartley should just be called a canister purge valve hose. And if that's not the official name, I'm sure it's enough for a parts counter guy to work from. He'll know what you mean.
My flex feels like it’s going stall after I fill the tank up. This is the only time it happens. I’m not getting any codes, figured I’d try a $40 fix first. quick question, easiest way to get the green tab quick connect off is with the pick? I feel like I’m going to break it. If I do end up breaking it do you know the part to replace it?
My Flex isn't home at the moment to look at, but there's a few types of quick connects on the Fords and often they require "two movements" to release. There will be prongs to pull out, or a piece to twist, or a place to press, etc. before you pull the quick connect up. Study the fitting a few minutes, and it should become clear to you.
I figured it out and replaced the valve. Hopefully that solves the issue when refilling. Thank you for the video.
@@Kingdope if not the purge valve, potentially the vent or the canister. That's if I'm understanding symptoms correctly, only having trouble on a full tank, everything is fine once fuel level lowers a bit. That's typically an EVAP system that isn't breathing.
Bidirectional scanner I'm assuming. Looking for one. Either d7 or d8
Very well done. But that scanner you using costs around $600.and you have to have the knowledge to understand, how to use it
The D7 scanner has saved me much more money in shop fees than the scanner cost. If you have basic mechanical knowledge and a general understanding of how engines work, then there are a lot of good sources via the internet where you can get more training. And then, the most valuable item will be having access to the factory shop manual.
So, basically, if this was the first time using the scanner, he'd already have broken even. He would then have a great tool to use on a bazillion other cars. It doesn't take an advanced degree to use a scanning tool.
Can you link a part number for the purge valve please?
Steve, you're much safer using your Year, Make, Model, Engine information as you source the part. When shopping online at Amazon, O'Reilly's, AutoZone, NAPA, Walmart, etc. you have the opportunity to enter this information to ensure compatibility of parts. Also, a phone call to your local Ford dealer parts department with your VIN number can score you the OEM part number. You can then use this to cross reference as you consider aftermarket parts.
Always best to do these things for yourself on all parts purchases. Nothing more frustrating than buying and receiving an incorrect part because "some guy on the internet" gave you wrong info for your specific vehicle.
@@KentForrest that make sense. My year was only 1 year off from yours figured it would be the same. My local dealer is closed today. Obviously the car still drives but just wanted to get it taken care of asap. Thank you though.
@@stevecampos1055 give O'Reilly's, AutoZone, NAPA call or use their website. With Year Make Model and Engine (or VIN) they can be sure to get you the correct part number.
Where to get the “Ford” funnel?
AIPICO 8U5A-17B068-AD 8U5Z17B068B Fuel Filler Funnel Tube for Ford Lincoln Mercury a.co/d/47rdsWm
Your car should come with the funnel. Mine was clipped in near the spare tire.
What is the name of the reader you are using?
Hi Shelley, by reader do you mean the scan tool? The XTool D7 is the device in use here.