COMPLETE Hinderer XM-18 Disassembly & Total Transformation! (With some Tips & Tricks)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มี.ค. 2020
- You won't find a more complete Hinderer disassembly video anywhere! Swapping out literally 85% of this Hinderer for brand new parts. "Make it Your Own" Indeed!!!
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One reason Hinderer knives come apart and go together so well is that everything fits perfectly. I know no other manufacturer which is so consistently perfect as Hinderer! There is nearly zero variation in how the parts fit together. I particularly like how they feel both strong as steel, on the one hand, and somehow soft and comfortable in the hand. THAT, among many other qualities, is what makes Hinderers special, and WELL worth their price.
Did u put the PB washer before the washers on the show side?????
I think the spacer should be first then PB washers..
No. Washer faces the blade.
@@SliceyDicey no actually if u watch rick hinderer video the metal spacer fills the gap the bearings left thus making it like a standard blade and then the washer goes on between blade and liner
@@dubglock2312 yep thats what im trying to say
@@SliceyDicey thats the reason why the blade is not centered and why it has a bad action i did mine with PB and it work out well
@@knifeaddict_2133 yes, he did it wrong
That "lockbar insert" which was actually the lockbar stabilizer, can be done on a complete knife & not 1 that's disassembled like you thought here.
Here is another trick. Place a small piece of masking tape over each standoff taping them to the handle to hold them in place and you can freely move the handle around.
Never has worked for me. Always falls off.
I have done this 70 or 80 times with pivot screws and standoffs and have never had tape fall off. In fact you have to peel the tape off when you are finished. The tape sticks to aluminum, titanium, G-10, etc.
You can work the pivot from both sides, if necessary, to achieve both the correct degree of tightness (and drop-shuttiness) and also a centered blade… usually, in my experience, Hinderer parts are made to such tight tolerances, they just drop into place perfectly, every single time so far!
What I do to bypass the frustration you face with screws is use a few squares of that crappy "reusable tape" or double sided silicone tape with the majority of the stickyness removed from one side using finger oils, and tape the screws and pivot in place before reassembly. They won't fall out when you flip it over, and it doesn't leave residue when pulled off.
Great video ! Like how the knife turned out, very cool.👍😊
Possibly the single thing I like best about Hinderers - to work on - is the ready availability of parts, the same preference I have for Spyderco PM2s and Para 3s, for which parts are abundantly available. That makes all the difference to me! The prospect of getting screwed because I lost or damage a tiny screw has me scared! With foreign brands, many of which are terrific, where do I get a specific tiny screw if I need one? How do I even describe what I need, precisely? From my perspective, that is changing as more and more foreign sellers speak my language, but I much prefer working on knives for which spares are readily available (and choose brands accordingly)!
Hey man. Love the combo that your boy picked out. Btw, you could have changed the LBS after it was together. You don’t have to remove anything but the clip. It’s a .05 hex. Little trick for the nuts is to just tape them in place so they don’t fall out.
Caught the very end, looks nice!
This is gonna be cool!
Looking good!!!!
Gotta be honest man, this was brutal to watch. Hinderers are like the easiest knives to work with. You shouldn't be assembling the knife with the blade open. When the blade is open halfway, then everything assembles so easily.
Use masking or blue tape to hold the screws on the scales
The tape never sticks well enough for me.
Will be very helpfull when I get my own hinderer this week but just a scale swap when it first comes
Cool video with some handy tips. We're constantly quoting Eddie Izzard at our house. I believe "I shall hack at your neck with the thin bit" was in the same scene. :)
Interesting. I'm using PB washers and my action is perfect. I like the action with bearings but I've always heard that dirt or whatever will get inside the race or whatever and then you have to take it apart to clean out
Eddie Izzard death star cantina reference FTW! Did you dry these in a rain forrest?!
Hi Slicey don’t know if you’ve changed it but the PB washer you installed on the show side was reversed. The washer goes against the copper liner, then the spacer, then blade, then washer, then spacer. Adjust pivot and wear in the washers. Hope this helps! Keep up the videos 👍
What?
@@TeaDoubleE85 he put the PB washer in the spacer pocket on the blade and then the spacer on top. That’s backwards.
I bought my first xm 18 skinny today and I want to carry tip up but even after I unscrew the filler plate on the bottom half of the scale it is so precisely put together that it won't pop out to switch the clip side any tips?
I’d rather have yours. It’s a no brainer. Warthog’s kick ass, and it just looks freaking awesome!!! It’s not even close. -Stephen, Ohio 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Create video Even though I don't have one but hopefully one day I will if you put tape on the frame lock over the new screws maybe that will work to pick it up
Never sticks well enough for me. Easier to just do it all flat.
Putting a piece of tape on top of the barrel spacers will keep them from falling out , I used some blue painters tape
Yours!!!
Do you still need this tool to open his pivot?
Wonder if the action would improve some with a bearing on the non-copper side. Use one bearing and one washer. Looks pretty though.
I was curious if this as well
I use a strip of scotch tape across the back to hold the three back screws in place so they don't keep falling out.
Thanks for the video. I have a question regarding bearings. The bearing cage is not symmetric. Your video shows the open side of the cage against the blade and the closed side against the frame and scale. Is this correct? I cannot find any information on this. Does it matter?
Doesnt matter at all
That’s why I prefer a sebenza 😂
I would rather have his because I looooove black Micarta it’s my favorite so he had the edge from the start 😂
I wonder how long it took for it to smoothen out with those phosphor bronze washers
I bet they get better with time but I don’t want to try
Definitely tan micarta and copper hardware👍🏻😚 Seems like you messed up the action? Shouldn't it run better than that with fosfor bronze washers? And the blade centering is just way off. I'm wondering if something is under tension in the frame or the pivot since both the action and the blade centering is FUBAR? Anyway, I enjoy your videos Slicey and especially your review table with the half an inch squares where I really get an idea of size vice. And you are one of the few guys that leave the knife on your table long enough so people can get an idea. Regards from Norway⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐👍🏻🤠
I put a strip of tape along the handle nuts. That way, if you gotta pick it up, then don’t fall out.
That’s a beautiful build but I like yours better.
I like yours better but that micarta and copper is gonna look sik when it gets some patina to it.
His looks really nice but I like your better smooth is the name of the game 😊😊😊
Four Hinderers. What is Emilio doing right? Or wrong? ;-)
If you're not changing the handle nuts or even after you get the new ones in you can just use some painters tape to hold them in while putting on standoffs, liner, scale, etc I forget where I learned that trick. But it is definitely a swear stopper. 😤 -->😁
Ughhhhhhh you coulda waited until the very end to do the LBS
The tape has never stuck for me.
@@SliceyDicey I actually use electrical tape cause I almost always have a roll in my pocket or around from work. It does leave a residue that comes off with alcohol, I said painters cause that wont leave anything behind.
I would have wiped my finger prints off of the copper liner
So T6 bit ok?
NO! It will damage the screws eventually.
@@SliceyDicey damn, used them once to tighten my screws. Really want to switch my scales.
@@TeaDoubleE85 It’s an SAE hex. I just can’t remember the size right now. I have the armorers tool.
Hinderer are lime a 12 piece puzzle. Once you do it you know how.
That Micarta is sweet. Not a fan of the copper though. Great job!!! I'd rather have the bearings too
Looks cool but all that money and your left with that kinda action , no way
The end was disappointing. Off center and way stiff.
Think that makes a battery...
That looks really nice...and really expensive. Hah
Water is wettt!!!
His looks better, but I'd rather have the slicer blade on bearings.
Dude, you said you had some painters tape??? Put a lil' tape on em' to hold them while you work your magic... Come on SD, smarter not harder...
Never sticks well for me.
Put that show side washer in wrong. The filler should have gone in the milled hole, then the washer. No wonder the action sucks.
There both beautiful i like your just a bit better your front scale is bad a__
I think that’s a spearpoint, rather than a slicer…
You put the washer last washer where the steel insert is supposed to go. I mean there is break in time but that is why it was off centered and such terrible action.
Squeezing out hemorrhoids
I have the, Pennie al'a arabiata please
You whant peeas with tha't
Jesus…have you ever taken a knife apart…you’re changing hardware and a scale bro..10 min tops