@Jacob Koster it isn't like they aren't teaching him, and in transparency they will teach browning courses and all that, but he showed me a slide that took all my faith away from them. It was a picture of an sks and it said "the m1 garand was first semi-automatic" exact quote
If you don't count the RSC 1917, Mondragon Rifle (1908), Mauser C98, Fedorov Avtomat, Pedersen rifle, 1924 Garand and a lot of other early semi automatic rifles the M1 would be the first semi auto. Of those the RSC and Fedorov were produced in significant amounts. Noteworthy is that the Soviet union came quite close to adopting the SVT-40 as the standard service rifle, but they lost most of them in the months after June 1941
As a machinist mechnic,, i found a way to protect bare metal for life,, it will never rust anymore,, after some tests i found it and its very simple...
Thank you so much! It took me forever to figure out a hot blueing salt mixture that worked, with the sources I had available. Thanks for sharing your knowledge that openly!
Outstanding. While I can buy pre-mixed solutions in the USA, it's important to me to know the chemistry. Thank you! My next project will be better because of this information!
I’m so glad that people like you can provide good, helpful and free information. I got into restoration a while ago and I’ve been slowly working my way up from scrap metal to tools, and hopefully some day guns.
A key to any bluing or browning is getting the parts free of any oils. I used to do this at Griffin & Howe. We used water and calcium carbonate on a warmed part. The heat dried away any water. The calcium carbonate, now dry power, would suck up any oil. Then the part could be wire wheeled clean of the power, which, if oil is present, will now be stained lightly brown. Oil will exist in sharp corners and irregular surfaces, like engravings, stampings, or scratches. So getting it all will give a better result. Also, when you have the surface and color you desire, you MUST stop any residual acid action. I believed we used warming the part with a rag and oil to drive out remaining acids. Then wipe down the part, dry. Lands and grooves love to rust, so be careful, cause you may not notice it happening.
Wow..a veteran. Thanks for insight..i have done this as a hobby for many years. I have read many different ways to do it. Yeah i thought water bath between coats was just so it stopped the red rust .i just washed with some soft water..i just recently did the hot soft water bath that turns the red/brown to black! Soft water at 200°
About 50 years ago I blued a small firearm with Draino drain cleaner. First I picked all the aluminum particles out of it. I then mixed it with water and heated it on an old gas stove we had in our basement. Worked really well. I doubt whether Draino is the same formula as it was back then but it turned the metal a very nice black.
@@beyond.ballistics Drano is mostly sodium hydroxide with activators. I think the aluminum was an activator to cause a foaming action. I picked every chunk of aluminum out of there. I had lots of time back then.
A great way to get a nice finish is to use a carding wheel, available on Brownells. The steel wires used are VERY thin and won’t act as a wire wheel, but more like a faster 0000 steel wool.
I spoke to an old competition shooter who verbally told me of this process. i had never tried it before, but i might just try it now, because this dumbs it down so much. He said this style of bluing is the best bluing on the market and isn't done anymore due to cost. That true, because i want my weapons i restore to be as tough as possible.
Only found your channel today and have been doing a bit of binging. :) I'm a huge fan of the rust bluing process, the only substantial areas where "my" process differs is a final boil with baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to neutralize any remaining acids. I finish my parts not with oil, but by heating and applying paste wax then rubbing out once cooled. I usually apply three coats of the paste wax, heating for each application. Neat thing about using the wax is that you don't leave visible finger prints on the parts as with oiled parts.
Wow, this is one of the best videos I’ve ever seen on youtube (and I’ve watched a lot). you pack a huge amount of info into a short video and I haven’t seen this covered much anywhere else.
You can just put the parts in a humidifier box to get a thin red rust and then boil or steam them. Then you just card the parts off with a brass brush and penetrating oil.
I myself have an old pistol from turn of the century that needs to be reblued. I am very nervous about attempting to do it myself. This video does help me feel better about trying it, but I still feel I need to do more research before starting. Thank you so much for sharing this. I absolutely love your videos!
I Truly Agree! This Man Is Straight to the point and Very Clear with his Instruction. Thank You Sir For Sharing your Knowlage on this subject. God Bless.
Excellent video.. getting Conc HCL is difficult in UK these days because of the laws as a result of people using acid as a weapon.. You can get several commercial browning solutions though. Laural Mountian Forge browning solution is obtainable through Brownell UK and contains a degreaser. It is easy to use and will produce a good black when heated. I use a steam pipe over a pot of boiling water rather than a boiling tank. It is much easier to use and will do a good blacking in about 20-30 mins. Just a length of drain pipe fixed to the lid of a cheap supermarket cooking pot. Thanks for the hydrogen peroxide tip.. I will try that one!
I'm conserving a FRENCH 1917 LE M M 16 in 8mm Lebel. It's got some major issues. Mainly tons of very old gak and some minor barrel pitting but nothing to serious. A new bluing job will have to be done with some stock repairs. Thank you so much for all your great content and transparency. Best wishes from the USA.
Definitely the most concise yet information rich tutorials on the subject, and I've watched many. Thank you for these (the series) - much appreciated. Subscribed.
Total cost on Amazon for 37% hydrochloric acid, ammonium chloride, and zinc chloride was about $60. I have more than enough for more firearms than I'll ever own! Thanks, I'm so excited to try this out.
I will do. I wanted to find an originally parkerized gun that required refinishing, but they are more recent and are not very common to be found in poor conditions.
Thanks you for this video! I really appreciate that you but all the measurements and how to find them with different concentrations. Great video, keep up the great work!
Looking forward to the next chapter about caustic blueing. There seems to exist a technique for anodizing steel in a hot caustic solution, have you ever experimented with that?
Great video! For extracting zinc from batteries, you can also use alkaline batteries - the technique is just a bit different. For alkaline cells, the zinc is in the center, as a gel or paste of zinc particles suspended in an alkali electrolyte, usually potassium hydroxide. You can scoop it out and wash with water to remove all the soluble components, leaving you with zinc filings or powder.
I have a notion that comment sections tend to get stuffed with yes men for no particularly good reason, but i really do have to comment on this video: very cool. good job. genuinely happy i watched. i want to do this, but with knives. idk if it will work all that well though.
You're an expert in this field, thank you for sharing your knowledge. Do you have the formula of the original german pre WW2 rust blue ? The color is grey-blue and not dark. The right color allows to reblue partially, when for example a weapon is pitted only in small areas, or when only some small areas has been sanded by a previous owner.
Ammonium bicarbonate (hartshorn salt) is quite widely available in food quality. It's used for leavening some types of cookies. Pure food grade ammonium chloride is quite available in places where it is used to salt liquorice. Pure zink is easily and cheaply available at the hardware store for galvanic corrosion protection in boats etc. Saturated zinc chloride + hydrochloric acid solution is used for soldering sometimes. If it's like a paste or gel it has other crap added.
So I think what you said is that the act of forming rust on a high polish surface, will create micro blemishes in that surface by itself, and therefore you can not achieve a mirror blue finish with rust blue
On the oiling- submerging the piece in USED too hot to hold about 110 Degrees) but clean motor oil for 24 hours this will result in a high Glos finish. as always, the repolishing prep work affects the end process. this was a process was passed down to me by a gunsmith who started out in a blacksmith shop at 16 years old in the 1930s. the end result is a deep blue hue I have used this process for 25 years.
"...USED too hot to hold about 110 Degrees) but clean motor oil..." This seems like a contradiction in terms. Used motor oil has particles in it. That's why you change it. What do you mean? Take used motor oil and filter it?
I've seen folks use steam set ups to accelerate the rusting. They would boil distilled water over a large PVC tube and hang the rifle in the tube. I've wondered if adding an ozone generator would help accelerate the process, as it oxidizes quite readily. Something like a PVC frame wrapped in plastic sheet with an open top that contained the generator close to the part.
I really like your videos(both channels), but it has been so long since your last video, that I thought you had abandoned your channels. Hope to see more videos in the future. It is so refreshing to have someone really showing how restoration works, instead of these "fake" videos of other channels.
I had the opportunity of filming a lot of stuff, and I had to do it quickly, meaning I had to sacrifice editing time for filming. I have 4 videos already filmed, that I only have to script and edit, so that's not going to take too long. Hopefully
I recently did something similar, but instead of your rusting solution i used vinegar and table salt heated on the stove to rust the metal. My final hot water bath (i did four coats) i added a bunch of baking soda to neutralize the acids before i dried and oiled.
1) Glad to see another cool video added to this channel. Knew subscribing to both would pay off. 2) You should really have a link back to your main somewhere in the various channel and community tabs.
I just Grey parkerized/phospated my Mossberg 500 with a homemade solution made from fertan Rust converter, distilled water and a little Bit of battery manganese. Worked Like a Charm but getting there with household items and figuring Out what i need was difficult. Since most tutorials include either the brownells Mix wich ist not available to buy in my country or pure chemicals. Would be cool to see some Tutorials on parkerizing in the Future.
Excellent video! I fully intend to try this. I do have one question. Is the water you boil the parts in Distilled water or tap water? Does it make any difference?
Make sure to use some acetone to degrease your steel wool. You can use kerosene to set the finish. If you have a bench grinder you can use a carding wheel instead of steel wool. Make sure it's a carding wheel and not a wire wheel. A carding wheel won't hurt you if you touch it while it's spinning. A wire wheel will cut you up.
I do this to my steel impact bits but with much more housetold type items. All I use is acetone, white vinegar, salt , peroxide, and boiling water. I clean them with acetone first. Then I soak them in vinegar for 5 mins. Then a mix of salt and peroxide. Maybe a teaspoon of salt to a cup of peroxide. Let that soak another 5 to 10 minites. You will see the rust start to form and react. Then I put then in boiling water for 10 minutes. To go darker just repeat the proccess. I just did a handful of impact driver bits the other night. Don't forget to oil them up after. Also I later did a few where I just added the vinegar to the salt/h2o2 mix to make it one step. This does make small amounts of peracetic acid tho so be careful. What the result is turning iron oxide (Fe2o3)into black oxide (Fe3O4). It's basicaly black oxide coating like the black nuts and bolts you can buy at tsc.
This is great. 🤘 I will definitely give it a try myself, especially the browning. I think a few browned small parts put some nice little accents on blued guns.
Finger oils will definetly damage a new coat of oxide layer, especially a refractive layer like heat blueing. I have a 22 with a bright grey fingerprint on the blue/purple background
On not hurting soldered joints there is a solder that melts at way way low temp like 205 f. Read it in a old gunsmith book. Can't remember what it was called but they talked about it as a warning it is out there. Old not used anymore but old stuff may have it.
oooooo Ill take all the rust bluing videos I can get! On a side note, would you happen to know what they did to get the "red" or "Plum" color that is present on Makarov and Stetchkin safeties and sometimes hammers? I always thought it was intentional, however other guns, like some ruger revolvers, seem to also become plum, tho unintentionally, and I wonder if its the same effect.
Another good source of Zinc is the goold old GARBAGE U.S. zinc penny. These are usually copper clad so you will need to melt the zinc out of them with a torch being careful to remain below the temperatures required to vaporize said zinc which would be well below the temperatures required to melt the penny. Using the zinc in the battery is probably safer :)
A lot of stuff nowadays is made out of zinc, but in most cases it's a zinc alloy containing other elements in small proportions in it, usually aluminum and copper, and I'm worried they might interfere with the process. I chose the battery casing as a source of zinc because that's usually pure zinc, or at least pure enough.
I did a few different types. Your method overlaps. the hot water will turn red to black rust (after carding with steelwool) i missed that in a passed job..that turned out plum brown...the last one i did with hot soft water bath turned black...black black...i think this would have rubbed off..but i stabilized with drying oil .linseed tung paste wax.also you can burnish with .003" "wire" brush.the best general utility i have found ..treat steel parts with paint prep phosphoric acid or navel gel...works great after light bead blast...i did a few,looked nice gray. Duhhh...i rubbed on black stain! Then rub on a drying oil like tung oil..great for an old 22 or mossberg pump ..basicly wipe everything off it is easy..a gunsmith would think its real..and you can touch it up. Thanks again..your method looks good i encourage you to check out different processes. I learned about rust bluing at about 8 years old im still learning at 62!
What kind of ‘pot’? Do you use for boiling the rifle? Is it specifically designed for boiling or is it like a flower bed or something? Also what kind of stove do you use? Great video and I hope you read thanks!
It's called "bluing" in English for the same reason it's called "pavonado" (lit. "made it look like a peacock") in Spanish; because the original means in late medieval times of making the steel black started by making it look blue by heating, then dunking it in oil.
Three important questions: 1) Do you need to replace the all water every boiling cycle or can you keep the water in the tank you used before? 2) Do you need to thoroughly clean and degrease the gun after each time you scrub off the black oxide and before the next application of solution? 3) Can you really put gun oil OVER boiled linseed oil? I am worried that the gun oil will dissolve or emulsify the boiled linseed oil underneath, even after it has hardened. Thank you!
1) Not necesary to replace the water (distilled water is better than tap water), but it delivers a little chemical smell. So if you use it inside your home, be careful to not worry your wife. 2)If you handle your parts AND steel whool with clean gloves, not necessary to degrease before applying new coat of liquor.
Thanks for the great ideas. Do you know a good way to remove a nickel finish? It's an old top break in 38s&w, and the finish on the barrel is peeling off, and I would like to make it look nice.
GOAT chemist. Im curious do the different solutions produce different finishes? By pure chance I ended up binging all your videos last night and ended up with that question (commercial rust blueing vendors sell different formulas for different guns it seems). I'm a a bit afraid to boil the guns that never had rust bluing (parkerized or salt blue) because I have the feeling it will just convert the splotches of rust to blueing that wont match the rest.
Most American coins are mostly zinc. I read on the treasury website that its perfectly legal to use coins for their raw materials as well. For anyone not wanting to mess with batteries Depending on the purity of the hydrogen gas produced I'd be breathing as much in as I could and/or storing it in a vessel with potable water, which when shaken sufficiently should yield hydrogen rich water. You really ought to read the research surrounding the medical benefits of breathing/drinking/bathing in hydrogen infused water, there must be dozens of studies with scads of benefits and I've never seen a downside
It only affects the reaction velocity, I have seen no difference on the results. Over 6% the reaction is so quick it becomes hard to control, leading to visible pitting
Amazing work as always & lots of very useful information you don't find elsewhere I just recently tried the ferric chloride solution option & was very pleased with the results. One thing I will say is its a nice deep black but under sunlight indoors you get the browning effect Is this normal or have I missed something?
Ferric based solutions tend to leave an orange/brown hue on the finished bluing, so you didn't miss anything. If you'd rather have a pure black, the solution I described in this video will do the trick.
@@beyond.ballistics I managed to remove the browning & get more of a darker finish by doing a few more passes Is it possible to use ferric chloride solution without the hydrogen peroxide? How long should I let the part rust without using hydrogen peroxide?
Zinc metal is common available @ hardware stores as in zinc %/or strapping w/ holes punched in along it's length ...also caution zinc & Hcl acid reaction produces hydrogen gas & chlorine gas so this fuel/air ratio easily ignites into a fireball spectacular ...clumsy drop a tool on the concrete floor or any spark makes for fun.....
honestly teaches us more on his hobby channel than sdi is teaching my friend for money. thank you for all the information you share!
My pleasure!
Out of curiosity what is SDI teaching their students
@Jacob Koster it isn't like they aren't teaching him, and in transparency they will teach browning courses and all that, but he showed me a slide that took all my faith away from them. It was a picture of an sks and it said "the m1 garand was first semi-automatic" exact quote
@@Knobs4u bruj
If you don't count the RSC 1917, Mondragon Rifle (1908), Mauser C98, Fedorov Avtomat, Pedersen rifle, 1924 Garand and a lot of other early semi automatic rifles the M1 would be the first semi auto. Of those the RSC and Fedorov were produced in significant amounts. Noteworthy is that the Soviet union came quite close to adopting the SVT-40 as the standard service rifle, but they lost most of them in the months after June 1941
It's insane that such a clear and plainly illustrated description of the process doesn't seem to exist anywhere else online.
As a machinist mechnic,, i found a way to protect bare metal for life,, it will never rust anymore,, after some tests i found it and its very simple...
You alive dude?
😂@@anteneupitra
If only more youtube videos were made like this: concise, accurate, with easy to follow instructions and images of the finished result.
Thanks.
My pleasure!
Thank you so much! It took me forever to figure out a hot blueing salt mixture that worked, with the sources I had available. Thanks for sharing your knowledge that openly!
The pleasure is mine
Outstanding. While I can buy pre-mixed solutions in the USA, it's important to me to know the chemistry. Thank you! My next project will be better because of this information!
The pleasure is mine!
This video is *superb.*
The chemistry, explanations, demonstrations, and quality are second-to-none.
That's the content we want to see ! Amazing job and great tips, thanks again !
Big support from France 🇨🇵🇨🇵
I’m so glad that people like you can provide good, helpful and free information.
I got into restoration a while ago and I’ve been slowly working my way up from scrap metal to tools, and hopefully some day guns.
A key to any bluing or browning is getting the parts free of any oils. I used to do this at Griffin & Howe. We used water and calcium carbonate on a warmed part. The heat dried away any water. The calcium carbonate, now dry power, would suck up any oil. Then the part could be wire wheeled clean of the power, which, if oil is present, will now be stained lightly brown.
Oil will exist in sharp corners and irregular surfaces, like engravings, stampings, or scratches. So getting it all will give a better result.
Also, when you have the surface and color you desire, you MUST stop any residual acid action. I believed we used warming the part with a rag and oil to drive out remaining acids. Then wipe down the part, dry.
Lands and grooves love to rust, so be careful, cause you may not notice it happening.
Wow..a veteran. Thanks for insight..i have done this as a hobby for many years. I have read many different ways to do it. Yeah i thought water bath between coats was just so it stopped the red rust .i just washed with some soft water..i just recently did the hot soft water bath that turns the red/brown to black! Soft water at 200°
This is why I started watching you. These rust blue videos are the best out there
About 50 years ago I blued a small firearm with Draino drain cleaner. First I picked all the aluminum particles out of it. I then mixed it with water and heated it on an old gas stove we had in our basement. Worked really well. I doubt whether Draino is the same formula as it was back then but it turned the metal a very nice black.
That's probably hydroxide based, so it sounds you did some form of caustic bluing. That's what I'm covering in the next video.
@@beyond.ballistics Drano is mostly sodium hydroxide with activators. I think the aluminum was an activator to cause a foaming action. I picked every chunk of aluminum out of there. I had lots of time back then.
A great way to get a nice finish is to use a carding wheel, available on Brownells. The steel wires used are VERY thin and won’t act as a wire wheel, but more like a faster 0000 steel wool.
I did this with a nearly identical revolver to the one in the thumbnail back in college. One of my favorite projects
I spoke to an old competition shooter who verbally told me of this process. i had never tried it before, but i might just try it now, because this dumbs it down so much. He said this style of bluing is the best bluing on the market and isn't done anymore due to cost. That true, because i want my weapons i restore to be as tough as possible.
Only found your channel today and have been doing a bit of binging. :) I'm a huge fan of the rust bluing process, the only substantial areas where "my" process differs is a final boil with baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to neutralize any remaining acids. I finish my parts not with oil, but by heating and applying paste wax then rubbing out once cooled. I usually apply three coats of the paste wax, heating for each application. Neat thing about using the wax is that you don't leave visible finger prints on the parts as with oiled parts.
The neutralizing bath you do is always a good practice, but I'm lazy🤣
Wow, this is one of the best videos I’ve ever seen on youtube (and I’ve watched a lot). you pack a huge amount of info into a short video and I haven’t seen this covered much anywhere else.
Always good to see different methods of blueing or browning or rust blueing. Thanks for the explanation.
You can just put the parts in a humidifier box to get a thin red rust and then boil or steam them. Then you just card the parts off with a brass brush and penetrating oil.
I myself have an old pistol from turn of the century that needs to be reblued. I am very nervous about attempting to do it myself. This video does help me feel better about trying it, but I still feel I need to do more research before starting. Thank you so much for sharing this. I absolutely love your videos!
I Truly Agree! This Man Is Straight to the point and Very Clear with his Instruction. Thank You Sir For Sharing your Knowlage on this subject. God Bless.
Excellent video.. getting Conc HCL is difficult in UK these days because of the laws as a result of people using acid as a weapon.. You can get several commercial browning solutions though. Laural Mountian Forge browning solution is obtainable through Brownell UK and contains a degreaser. It is easy to use and will produce a good black when heated.
I use a steam pipe over a pot of boiling water rather than a boiling tank. It is much easier to use and will do a good blacking in about 20-30 mins. Just a length of drain pipe fixed to the lid of a cheap supermarket cooking pot.
Thanks for the hydrogen peroxide tip.. I will try that one!
I'm conserving a FRENCH 1917 LE M M 16 in 8mm Lebel. It's got some major issues. Mainly tons of very old gak and some minor barrel pitting but nothing to serious. A new bluing job will have to be done with some stock repairs. Thank you so much for all your great content and transparency. Best wishes from the USA.
Definitely the most concise yet information rich tutorials on the subject, and I've watched many. Thank you for these (the series) - much appreciated. Subscribed.
Total cost on Amazon for 37% hydrochloric acid, ammonium chloride, and zinc chloride was about $60. I have more than enough for more firearms than I'll ever own! Thanks, I'm so excited to try this out.
This was fantastic and your results were beautiful! Thank you so much for sharing this information with us.
i always wanted to know this! I have a 50s air gun that seen better days and the bluing is pretty much gone.
I like your boiling tank set up. I use the same tank and loose alot of heat with the open burners i use. Thanks for the info.
Awesome video, you should also do a video on parkerization
I will do. I wanted to find an originally parkerized gun that required refinishing, but they are more recent and are not very common to be found in poor conditions.
Quanto adoro sto canale. Ti giuro uso i tuoi video anche per addormentarmi la notte
Thanks you for this video! I really appreciate that you but all the measurements and how to find them with different concentrations. Great video, keep up the great work!
Looking forward to the next chapter about caustic blueing.
There seems to exist a technique for anodizing steel in a hot caustic solution, have you ever experimented with that?
me TOO!
Great video!
For extracting zinc from batteries, you can also use alkaline batteries - the technique is just a bit different.
For alkaline cells, the zinc is in the center, as a gel or paste of zinc particles suspended in an alkali electrolyte, usually potassium hydroxide. You can scoop it out and wash with water to remove all the soluble components, leaving you with zinc filings or powder.
Fair point, but I'm not sure it's worth the extra effort. Also the reaction of zinc powder with the acid quold be very violent...
@@beyond.ballistics Agreed, you'd have to be careful, but if one is desperate...
Man what an absolutely great video! I have some parts I will be using this on!
Truly honored to see you here!
I have a notion that comment sections tend to get stuffed with yes men for no particularly good reason, but i really do have to comment on this video: very cool. good job. genuinely happy i watched. i want to do this, but with knives. idk if it will work all that well though.
Didn’t know you had second channel, but that is great! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
You're an expert in this field, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Do you have the formula of the original german pre WW2 rust blue ?
The color is grey-blue and not dark.
The right color allows to reblue partially, when for example a weapon is pitted only in small areas, or when only some small areas has been sanded by a previous owner.
I understood the nomenclature on “Bluing” to refer to the transition colors and the way the coating reflects light at sharp angles.
Ammonium bicarbonate (hartshorn salt) is quite widely available in food quality. It's used for leavening some types of cookies. Pure food grade ammonium chloride is quite available in places where it is used to salt liquorice. Pure zink is easily and cheaply available at the hardware store for galvanic corrosion protection in boats etc. Saturated zinc chloride + hydrochloric acid solution is used for soldering sometimes. If it's like a paste or gel it has other crap added.
So I think what you said is that the act of forming rust on a high polish surface, will create micro blemishes in that surface by itself, and therefore you can not achieve a mirror blue finish with rust blue
On the oiling- submerging the piece in USED too hot to hold about 110 Degrees) but clean motor oil for 24 hours this will result in a high Glos finish. as always, the repolishing prep work affects the end process.
this was a process was passed down to me by a gunsmith who started out in a blacksmith shop at 16 years old in the 1930s. the end result is a deep blue hue I have used this process for 25 years.
"...USED too hot to hold about 110 Degrees) but clean motor oil..."
This seems like a contradiction in terms. Used motor oil has particles in it. That's why you change it. What do you mean? Take used motor oil and filter it?
I've seen folks use steam set ups to accelerate the rusting. They would boil distilled water over a large PVC tube and hang the rifle in the tube. I've wondered if adding an ozone generator would help accelerate the process, as it oxidizes quite readily. Something like a PVC frame wrapped in plastic sheet with an open top that contained the generator close to the part.
Lots of people use steam with good success, but I only tried it briefly.
I really like your videos(both channels), but it has been so long since your last video, that I thought you had abandoned your channels. Hope to see more videos in the future. It is so refreshing to have someone really showing how restoration works, instead of these "fake" videos of other channels.
I had the opportunity of filming a lot of stuff, and I had to do it quickly, meaning I had to sacrifice editing time for filming. I have 4 videos already filmed, that I only have to script and edit, so that's not going to take too long. Hopefully
@@beyond.ballistics I'll be looking forward to seeing them. Thanks for taking time to read and reply to my comment.
What’s the other channel?
@@DrewDiaz The other channel is Backyard Ballistics.
I’m really looking forward to the next two parts!
I recently did something similar, but instead of your rusting solution i used vinegar and table salt heated on the stove to rust the metal.
My final hot water bath (i did four coats) i added a bunch of baking soda to neutralize the acids before i dried and oiled.
so was it satisfactory? would you do it again?
@@domm5715 it worked.
I wouldn't have done it on something as important as a firearm though.
1) Glad to see another cool video added to this channel. Knew subscribing to both would pay off.
2) You should really have a link back to your main somewhere in the various channel and community tabs.
You're definitely right, I forgot. I'll do it later
Nice result with the Orbea Hermanos/Tettoni revolver :-)
I really like your videos. Can you do a tutorial with parkerizing/ fosphating? I experimented with this process on some parts with mixed result.
I just Grey parkerized/phospated my Mossberg 500 with a homemade solution made from fertan Rust converter, distilled water and a little Bit of battery manganese. Worked Like a Charm but getting there with household items and figuring Out what i need was difficult. Since most tutorials include either the brownells Mix wich ist not available to buy in my country or pure chemicals.
Would be cool to see some Tutorials on parkerizing in the Future.
I will definitely cover parkerizing, both zinc and manganese based.
Excellent video! I fully intend to try this. I do have one question. Is the water you boil the parts in Distilled water or tap water? Does it make any difference?
Thank you for this video. Very informative and very detailed and clear. I am sure i will try this process on some metal. Keep up the excellent work.
Anvil Mark Novak's video is the YT recommendation following yours 👍
Make sure to use some acetone to degrease your steel wool. You can use kerosene to set the finish. If you have a bench grinder you can use a carding wheel instead of steel wool. Make sure it's a carding wheel and not a wire wheel. A carding wheel won't hurt you if you touch it while it's spinning. A wire wheel will cut you up.
Carding wheel in a drill press is what I prefer, turns slower.
I do this to my steel impact bits but with much more housetold type items. All I use is acetone, white vinegar, salt , peroxide, and boiling water. I clean them with acetone first. Then I soak them in vinegar for 5 mins. Then a mix of salt and peroxide. Maybe a teaspoon of salt to a cup of peroxide. Let that soak another 5 to 10 minites. You will see the rust start to form and react. Then I put then in boiling water for 10 minutes. To go darker just repeat the proccess. I just did a handful of impact driver bits the other night. Don't forget to oil them up after. Also I later did a few where I just added the vinegar to the salt/h2o2 mix to make it one step. This does make small amounts of peracetic acid tho so be careful. What the result is turning iron oxide (Fe2o3)into black oxide (Fe3O4). It's basicaly black oxide coating like the black nuts and bolts you can buy at tsc.
You are a beautiful human being. Thanks for your quality information.
One of the best descripitions ever. Tks!
This is great. 🤘
I will definitely give it a try myself, especially the browning. I think a few browned small parts put some nice little accents on blued guns.
Fantastic video! Really clear explanation of bluing.
Finger oils will definetly damage a new coat of oxide layer, especially a refractive layer like heat blueing. I have a 22 with a bright grey fingerprint on the blue/purple background
I’d love to learn more about the other bluing methods
Absolutely fantastic video. Thank you Sir
How was I not subscribed to this channel already?
Thank you so much for this detailed information!!
ZnO is zinc white, normally available and with chlorid acid get ZnCl. I used it as flux for soldering.
On not hurting soldered joints there is a solder that melts at way way low temp like 205 f. Read it in a old gunsmith book. Can't remember what it was called but they talked about it as a warning it is out there. Old not used anymore but old stuff may have it.
God bless my man. Love the chemistry tips and all your work.
Great job as always!
How longs this been a thing! Backyard ballistics club 🤣🤣🤣
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the zinc cores of US 1¢ pieces would work as a source of zinc (make sure they are from 1983 or newer).
oooooo Ill take all the rust bluing videos I can get!
On a side note, would you happen to know what they did to get the "red" or "Plum" color that is present on Makarov and Stetchkin safeties and sometimes hammers? I always thought it was intentional, however other guns, like some ruger revolvers, seem to also become plum, tho unintentionally, and I wonder if its the same effect.
That's the color some alloys take when caustic bluing. Sintered parts seem to be more affected. I don't think you can get that with rust bluing
@@beyond.ballistics mmmmm I see. Thank you for the reply!
Excellent tutorial. Immediately subscribed.
so from what i understand i can take H2O2 and rub it on my gun, then boil it and after a few times it will be good?
First time i heard of the peroxide,thanks again...
Excellent video! Thankyou very much!
Another good source of Zinc is the goold old GARBAGE U.S. zinc penny. These are usually copper clad so you will need to melt the zinc out of them with a torch being careful to remain below the temperatures required to vaporize said zinc which would be well below the temperatures required to melt the penny. Using the zinc in the battery is probably safer :)
Newer minted pennies are also made from zinc but they are plated with copper on the surface so you’ll have to sand that off
A lot of stuff nowadays is made out of zinc, but in most cases it's a zinc alloy containing other elements in small proportions in it, usually aluminum and copper, and I'm worried they might interfere with the process. I chose the battery casing as a source of zinc because that's usually pure zinc, or at least pure enough.
Looking forward to the boiling caustic salts process
Wow! Thanks for a very informative video. Definitely want to try this
Great video!
How would one achieve the shiny black of modern colts and smith revolvers????
Thanks, can't wait for other methods.
I did a few different types. Your method overlaps. the hot water will turn red to black rust (after carding with steelwool) i missed that in a passed job..that turned out plum brown...the last one i did with hot soft water bath turned black...black black...i think this would have rubbed off..but i stabilized with drying oil .linseed tung paste wax.also you can burnish with .003" "wire" brush.the best general utility i have found ..treat steel parts with paint prep phosphoric acid or navel gel...works great after light bead blast...i did a few,looked nice gray. Duhhh...i rubbed on black stain! Then rub on a drying oil like tung oil..great for an old 22 or mossberg pump ..basicly wipe everything off it is easy..a gunsmith would think its real..and you can touch it up. Thanks again..your method looks good i encourage you to check out different processes. I learned about rust bluing at about 8 years old im still learning at 62!
OUSTANDING!
What kind of ‘pot’? Do you use for boiling the rifle? Is it specifically designed for boiling or is it like a flower bed or something? Also what kind of stove do you use? Great video and I hope you read thanks!
It's called "bluing" in English for the same reason it's called "pavonado" (lit. "made it look like a peacock") in Spanish; because the original means in late medieval times of making the steel black started by making it look blue by heating, then dunking it in oil.
WONDERFUL video on the topic. Thank you very much, subscribed.
Keep on posting content like this, and this channel will get around
Fantastic content as usual. Thanks!
That was extremely well presented information
Thank you
Three important questions:
1) Do you need to replace the all water every boiling cycle or can you keep the water in the tank you used before?
2) Do you need to thoroughly clean and degrease the gun after each time you scrub off the black oxide and before the next application of solution?
3) Can you really put gun oil OVER boiled linseed oil? I am worried that the gun oil will dissolve or emulsify the boiled linseed oil underneath, even after it has hardened.
Thank you!
1) Not necesary to replace the water (distilled water is better than tap water), but it delivers a little chemical smell. So if you use it inside your home, be careful to not worry your wife.
2)If you handle your parts AND steel whool with clean gloves, not necessary to degrease before applying new coat of liquor.
Thanks for the great ideas. Do you know a good way to remove a nickel finish? It's an old top break in 38s&w, and the finish on the barrel is peeling off, and I would like to make it look nice.
Hydrochloric acid is banned in the UK, all strong acids were banned here following the acid attacks by Islamists in London back in the 2010s
I hope you manage to do the other two videos still.
the caustic bluing video was already uploaded about 10 months ago ;)
I want to go more Brown on my next dive, and doing "German Silver" sights on my repro colts.
GOAT chemist. Im curious do the different solutions produce different finishes? By pure chance I ended up binging all your videos last night and ended up with that question (commercial rust blueing vendors sell different formulas for different guns it seems). I'm a a bit afraid to boil the guns that never had rust bluing (parkerized or salt blue) because I have the feeling it will just convert the splotches of rust to blueing that wont match the rest.
Once there's rust, the splotch is already there. If you card it as it is, it'll look brown. If you boil it, it'll be grey/black
Great video! Any suggestions for “bluing” stainless steel ? Any way to darken it short of painting?
Most American coins are mostly zinc. I read on the treasury website that its perfectly legal to use coins for their raw materials as well. For anyone not wanting to mess with batteries
Depending on the purity of the hydrogen gas produced I'd be breathing as much in as I could and/or storing it in a vessel with potable water, which when shaken sufficiently should yield hydrogen rich water. You really ought to read the research surrounding the medical benefits of breathing/drinking/bathing in hydrogen infused water, there must be dozens of studies with scads of benefits and I've never seen a downside
Great video thanks!
Have you ever tried rusting the part using ammonia fumes?
Is the concentration of Hydrogen peroxide important (for example 3%)?
It only affects the reaction velocity, I have seen no difference on the results. Over 6% the reaction is so quick it becomes hard to control, leading to visible pitting
Amazing work as always & lots of very useful information you don't find elsewhere
I just recently tried the ferric chloride solution option & was very pleased with the results. One thing I will say is its a nice deep black but under sunlight indoors you get the browning effect
Is this normal or have I missed something?
Ferric based solutions tend to leave an orange/brown hue on the finished bluing, so you didn't miss anything. If you'd rather have a pure black, the solution I described in this video will do the trick.
@@beyond.ballistics I managed to remove the browning & get more of a darker finish by doing a few more passes
Is it possible to use ferric chloride solution without the hydrogen peroxide? How long should I let the part rust without using hydrogen peroxide?
Salammoniac is easy to come by any welding outfit carrying soldering supplies will have it.
Zinc metal is common available @ hardware stores as in zinc %/or strapping w/ holes punched in along it's length ...also caution zinc & Hcl acid reaction produces hydrogen gas & chlorine gas so this fuel/air ratio easily ignites into a fireball spectacular ...clumsy drop a tool on the concrete floor or any spark makes for fun.....