Rebuild a Ford Motorcraft 6G Alternator yourself. Ford Lincoln F150 F250 F350 110-135amp 2000-2009

This video will go over how to break down and put back together a Ford 6G alternator and how to do a basic rebuild.
WARNING! DOT NOT EVER PULL OFF YOUR BATTERY CABLES WITH THE VEHICLE RUNNING!
It is a myth that some idiot started that you can test your alternator this way to see if your vehicle will die but it can cause catastrophic damage to your car.
If you are lucky all your relays will disengage and your car will die but if the alternator is charging it can cause it to put out unregulated voltage damaging any electrical system in its path. Blown fuses are best case scenario but it can also cause damage to your ECM, blow out headlights and interior lights, damage sensors, fuel pump, burn wiring and damage your battery. Do not do this. Have your alternator tested normally.
Standard components you want to replace are your bearings, regulator/brush holder assembly, and your bearing tolerance ring.
Pulley should be torqued to atleast 70ft lbs with an impact gun.
You will need a 5/16, 15/16 socket, T20 torque head, a hammer, and a impact gun at minimum for disassembly.
Once back on the vehicle the alternator should always charge between 14.0V to 14.8V. Small emporary fluctuations are normal but anything 15V or over is overcharging and anything under 13.8V is undercharging. If this happens there is an underlying issue with the vehicle or alternator. Bad regulator, bad diode, bad or low battery, dirty cables, or something on the vehicle is pulling excessive amperage.
If you have a diesel vehicle it is normal for your voltage to be around 12.5V to 13.5V on cold start as the glow plugs pull alot of amperage from the alternator. It should stabilize at 14.2V after the motor has warmed up.
Always replace, load test and or fully charge your battery before reinstalling your alternator.
Alternator components part numbers:
BEARINGS:
DE Housing 6303-2RS
SRE Housing B10-50D, B10-51D
REGULATORS: Industry# R77 brushes
Gray w/Gray cover - cannot replace gray/green
Ford - F8WU10C359AB
Regitar USA - GR900, GR900, MFVR01230, VR-F900, VR-F900A, 230-14038
Gray w/Green cover - replaces gray/gray
Ford - 3C3U10C359AA, VP3C3U10C359, VP3C3U10C359AA, VP3C3U10C395
Regitar USA - GR901, GR901M, VR-F901, 230-14047, GR900HD, 230-14047
Heavy Duty Replacement - T900, 230-14045
White w/Grey cover - Replaces both White/Blue and White/Black cover but Blue and Black cannot interchange.
Ford - 4L3U10C359AA, 7L4E10C359AA, VP4F1U10C359A, VP4L3U, VP4L3U10C359AA, VPF1U10C359AA, XW4U10C359A, XW4U10C359AB
Regitar USA - GR910, GR910M, MFVR01240, VR-F910, 230-14057
Taditel - T902
White w/Orange cover
Ford - XS7U10C359BA
Regitar USA - GR930, MFVR01250, 230-14041
Latest circuitry version - must use on 2005-2008 models
Ford- VP4L1U10C359AA
Regitar USA - GR931, GR931M, 230-14048, 230-14054
White w/White cover
Ford - XS7U10C359AC
Regitar USA - GR920, MFVR03860, 230-14048, 230-14054
RECTIFIERS: Use 60/40 preflux solder or stronger
Standard Frame 8 diodes-
RF103HV, RF10HV, RF103A, RF10A, 172-14028, 172-14035, 172-14038
Alternate rectifier clocking with frame bolt to the right of battery post
F8RU10A366CAIP, 172-14044
Standard Frame 6 diode version- Single leads
MFRX04382, RF13, RF133, 172-14032, 172-14033, 172-14058
Alternate clocking with frame bolts to the right of battery post
MFRX04402, RF15, RF153, 172-14034
Large Frame Rectifiers
172-14029, 172-14031, 172-14046, 172-14061, RF123, RF123HV
Slip Ring - Rotor Repair
313-14015, 313-14016

[@carbabry]

Awesome video much appreciated

[@UlyssesMcclendon-ko9fu]

Appreciate the lesson 101

[@practicalplinking6133]

NEVER drive a bearing into place by hitting the inner race !! Heat the boss and drop it in or drive the OUTER RACE !!

[@hassnabd-alnasser2522]

❤❤

[@LowDeltaDave]

Great tips