Thanks for posting this fix. I'm going to follow your advice for my currently fried PB12 replacing the capacitors and DBR. This video was posted a while back and I am wondering if your unit is still working?.
@@warrenslater9623 you're welcome, bud! Many of these lower-end powered subs don't come with a power switch. I posted a video a while back where I modified it to add that functionality. Something tells me tonic voltage is less ideal to the electronic's longevity.
I see your videos and also read your very active and helpful in comments. Perhaps you can clear up some questions I have? PB10 = red lights only, no bass or green lights Tried replacing cables, tried “Y” cable, different settings, etc However, when I ran single RCA output straight from BR player to sub input, I got the green lights and the sound worked. So I assumed AVR was culprit. Replace my Yamaha with new Denon and same problem. When I ran the Denon speaker setup test, the sub lights turn green, played the tone and passed the test. I’ve tried every HDMI input device and not a peep, just the red lights. Also tried the Denon LFE+Main option. Nothing. What test signal (tone) comes from the internal AVR circuitry that apparently isn’t received from any HDMI inputs (or my components)? Surely every HDMI cable I own hasn’t gone bad. Do they need to be 2020 models? Lol Is the BR/DVD audio output (bypassing AVR ) to sub input a reliable test to go by? Any help is appreciated. Kind of like new AVR, but still in return window and could get nice sub replacement for that price.
I forgot to mention the Denon AVR has a initial setup tone to test the speakers, and another “white noise” type sound that’s used from a different menu. The PB10 works for the setup tone (chime), but not responding (green light or sound) for the other test noise (soft static sound). I also should have said I’m using all JBL speakers in a 5.1 setup with large CL2 rated 14ga AWG 4-conductor copper speaker wire, and dual shielded RCA sub cable.
Hi Kyle, good analysis (discovering it worked with test tones). I have a couple questions and then a general grievance. --What happens when you plug either of those receivers into a DIFFERENT subwoofer that's been verified to work? --Are you able to get thump in that setup? This test will troubleshoot the problem as with the receivers/settings/cables versus the subwoofer. --Also, if you haven't already tried, make sure to play slightly louder MUSIC when you test. Don't use television broadcasts, especially for this sub. Which leads into my grievance. --Often, my PB10 remains in standby (red lamps), while watching television. When it does finally kick in, it seems to only half-heartedly hit that very first note, before performing regularly again. Caps should take care of that right (lol)? Only in the ideal world... These are the situations we compromise with when using budget equipment. I look forward to hearing from you soon. Thank you for the comment 👌🏼
@@VestigialVoice Thanks for the reply, and yes I’ve noticed as the speakers (or myself) age, it takes more volume to switch them into green light mode. That was before the latest dilemma. I did go out and buy a new Klipsch 12” sub and it works without any problem. Im still haven’t tweaked the sound, and I plan to give the Denon Audyssey setup a shot. It would be nice to have the JBL working as my 2nd sub. So I guess the faulty equipment was/is the sub. When it passed the test (I learned about online) by running RCA’s direct from a optical player, I rushed out and replaced a 2 year old Yamaha AVR with a new Denon. Disappointed it didn’t fix my sub problem and it even caused another small one. Now I really like the new Denon and plan to keep it. So that’s won’t likely go over well. From what I’ve read here, sounds like you would start by replacing the capacitors, correct? I can buy the parts but need to find someone with a steady hand to do the labor. I struggle changing a lightbulb, and I’d be nervous as a whore in church messing with electronics internals. Thank you so much for helping the many people here, sharing your knowledge, without sounding condescending. I hope lots of good karma comes your way.
Hello @Vestigial Voice - I need help regarding my JBL PB 12 (Revision 1) subwoofer. The sub will just blow the fuse immediately after connected to power. I de-soldered the 2 capacitors (C1 and C2) and checked them. They are rated at 2200 mF and one measures 2190 and other one at 2270. Should I replace the capacitors? What do you think could be the reason for the sub blowing up fuses.
Hi Alok, if you properly tested those capacitors, then I doubt that is the problem. It sounds more like you have a short circuit which is allowing too much current to flow across the fuse, which, in turn, keeps blowing the fuse out. The good news: if it weren't for that fuse blowing out, your hardware would be damaged. As to where it is happening, you'll have to hunt around with that multimeter, good luck, my friend 🍀
Thank you for the comment, Axel! I placed the information in the comments, but probably neglected to add it in the actual video... It is an RS606 AC that handles an 800V max (if memory serves, the original was a 600V, but don't hold me to that). I purchased mine off ebay from a vendor in Europe, but you can probably find an equivalent on digikey or mouser.com. Have a great weekend!! :)
@@axeljehovanymendoza did you ever continue on with this project? I think the module and capacitors are burnt out on mine. I would assume the diode is out as well. I think this happened because I hooked it up to a 6 way
Hey sherif, good to hear from you again! I do not know where to get a complete circuit for that subwoofer. What on earth happened that you would need one as opposed to just replacing a single faulty component?
@@VestigialVoice Hey, I don't really know, but what I have noticed lately that if the volume is low the subwoofer starts to try to kick in on and off quickly with no use but just a buzz sound But when I raise the volume it kicks in and works properly.. also on the case the music stops it keeps buzzing till it switches off and the led keep flickering green/red gradually till it stops and turn red.. Do you have an advice ?? I can also load videos for the above.
Im having the same issue as well but it's Northridge E250P. Works fine for 30-60 mins and then the light starts flickering between green and red. Everytime it turns green as it flickers, there is the popping noise from being turned on. Tried all connections, ports, settings, and wires but the same problem persists. Next, I will try to open it up like what is shown here.
@@archael18 In this case I think there is a different component that requires to be checked, rather than the capacitors as i have already replaced them with no result.. unfortunately
@@smmohy i've opened it up and checked. There are 2 failing capacitors and one exploded super small diode, it seems like. I will likely attempt a fix in the coming weeks. I had found a circuit diagram as well to make sure I replace the correct parts.
I doubt anyone will see this, but I am having the problem where as soon as I plug it in, the fuse blows. Caps are ok, I was sure the bridge rectifier was shorted, and replaced it, but it turned out that when out of circuit the BR tested ok and not shorted. So now I am out of ideas and hoping it is not the module, although I think I saw a post headline somewhere that someone was able to fix their module. Anyone have any ideas what else could be causing this? I have been testing the board when out of the box, so nothing to do with the speaker. Also tested the transformer and that is ok. I really don't want to have to throw a sub I love out because of some $3 part... Help!
Bro I have almost the same problem with my jbl subwoofer 140/230. I am not familiar on using a tester. can I send you the video of the subwoofer having the noise thru your email?
HM, I checked out your most recent video, awesome drone footage and video editing! You've got skills :) As for your question: If you'd like me to check out a personal video, upload it to youtube as "unlisted" and then link it in the comments here.
@@VestigialVoice Thank you for your reply bro! and thanks for visiting my videos... hehehe! Here's the link to my problematic speaker, It's still working tho but currently when I play some music (for like 30mins), except from that crackling noise, I notice it does not blow that much bass unlike before, and sometimes it wasn't playing at all, it sounds like lose connection/wires, I guess it really damaged the electronics inside already I checked the speaker inside, speaker wires are all good tho. th-cam.com/video/hszKWvsTl90/w-d-xo.html Sorry for this very long message,.
Geez, HM, that noise would bother me ;) From what I can hear, it's making the same sound as a subwoofer being plugged in, which almost leads me to believe, after large bass-hits, the power becomes depleted (or is a weak solder joint to the PSU). Typically, there are multiple (usually 2) large capacitors. I would start there (see my first JBL repair video). With only 1 fully functional cap in circuit, the sub will eventually fail. The good news is: this is a fairly simple fix. Make sure to get the polarity correct (+ and -). Also, I would recommend replacing both capacitors if you find that to be the problem. You will be able to verify the failed capacitor, using a multimeter, after removal from the circuit (unless you have a ESR tester, which allows you to test without removing the capacitor). Let me know what you find out!
@@VestigialVoice Really appreciate your reply bro.! I actually opened the electronics inside but I can't find any suspicious caps based on your repair video (or I am not really expert on finding faulty caps) I think base on your diagnosis it is better to get a new one. haha! Thank you so much bro... really really appreciate it! 🙏🙏🙏
You're welcome, brother :) I hear ya' about getting a new one (I always get excited for new gear), but also use this as a learning opportunity! Tinker with the 140/230 and perhaps you'll learn something (or even fix it)! You know where to find me if you have any questions, have a great week :)
Ok so it crapped out again. I replaced the two capacitors as they were both puffed up again. Still no good. The transformer inside was hot to the touch as well. Wondering if I should continue chasing this down or look into another unit. Although I have a Sony behind my couch but its mediocre in comparison! Thoughts? Hope all is well with you and family!
@@VestigialVoice I didn't get that far. I swapped it out for the Sony and put it in my basement. How do I go about testing the DBR? Ohms test I assume?
@@VestigialVoice Please ignore my question! I do not have a meter with a diode setting & not sure if it would be worth purchasing as I have no use it other than for this unit. I work in a different electrical field and have access to meters and wondered if I can do a resistance check on this?
I had the same issue with mine. I was going to buy a new one. This seems like an easy fix, thank you. Hopefully I can get mine back. I live this sub.
Thanks for posting this fix. I'm going to follow your advice for my currently fried PB12 replacing the capacitors and DBR. This video was posted a while back and I am wondering if your unit is still working?.
Hi Warren, it's still working great! In fact, the sub is thumping right now 👌
Great news. Thanks@@VestigialVoice
@@warrenslater9623 you're welcome, bud! Many of these lower-end powered subs don't come with a power switch. I posted a video a while back where I modified it to add that functionality. Something tells me tonic voltage is less ideal to the electronic's longevity.
I see your videos and also read your very active and helpful in comments. Perhaps you can clear up some questions I have?
PB10 = red lights only, no bass or green lights
Tried replacing cables, tried “Y” cable, different settings, etc
However, when I ran single RCA output straight from BR player to sub input, I got the green lights and the sound worked. So I assumed AVR was culprit.
Replace my Yamaha with new Denon and same problem.
When I ran the Denon speaker setup test, the sub lights turn green, played the tone and passed the test. I’ve tried every HDMI input device and not a peep, just the red lights. Also tried the Denon LFE+Main option. Nothing.
What test signal (tone) comes from the internal AVR circuitry that apparently isn’t received from any HDMI inputs (or my components)? Surely every HDMI cable I own hasn’t gone bad. Do they need to be 2020 models? Lol
Is the BR/DVD audio output (bypassing AVR ) to sub input a reliable test to go by?
Any help is appreciated. Kind of like new AVR, but still in return window and could get nice sub replacement for that price.
I forgot to mention the Denon AVR has a initial setup tone to test the speakers, and another “white noise” type sound that’s used from a different menu. The PB10 works for the setup tone (chime), but not responding (green light or sound) for the other test noise (soft static sound). I also should have said I’m using all JBL speakers in a 5.1 setup with large CL2 rated 14ga AWG 4-conductor copper speaker wire, and dual shielded RCA sub cable.
Hi Kyle, good analysis (discovering it worked with test tones).
I have a couple questions and then a general grievance.
--What happens when you plug either of those receivers into a DIFFERENT subwoofer that's been verified to work?
--Are you able to get thump in that setup? This test will troubleshoot the problem as with the receivers/settings/cables versus the subwoofer.
--Also, if you haven't already tried, make sure to play slightly louder MUSIC when you test. Don't use television broadcasts, especially for this sub. Which leads into my grievance.
--Often, my PB10 remains in standby (red lamps), while watching television. When it does finally kick in, it seems to only half-heartedly hit that very first note, before performing regularly again. Caps should take care of that right (lol)? Only in the ideal world... These are the situations we compromise with when using budget equipment.
I look forward to hearing from you soon. Thank you for the comment 👌🏼
@@VestigialVoice Thanks for the reply, and yes I’ve noticed as the speakers (or myself) age, it takes more volume to switch them into green light mode. That was before the latest dilemma. I did go out and buy a new Klipsch 12” sub and it works without any problem. Im still haven’t tweaked the sound, and I plan to give the Denon Audyssey setup a shot. It would be nice to have the JBL working as my 2nd sub. So I guess the faulty equipment was/is the sub. When it passed the test (I learned about online) by running RCA’s direct from a optical player, I rushed out and replaced a 2 year old Yamaha AVR with a new Denon. Disappointed it didn’t fix my sub problem and it even caused another small one. Now I really like the new Denon and plan to keep it. So that’s won’t likely go over well.
From what I’ve read here, sounds like you would start by replacing the capacitors, correct? I can buy the parts but need to find someone with a steady hand to do the labor. I struggle changing a lightbulb, and I’d be nervous as a whore in church messing with electronics internals.
Thank you so much for helping the many people here, sharing your knowledge, without sounding condescending. I hope lots of good karma comes your way.
@@MrAlvinTostig yes hi i got a powerbass pb10 from a friend and when i plug it in it has lil pop sound and wont connect lights stay red
im useing a pyle PD3000BA IT WORKS FINE SUB OUT PUTS WORK
Hello @Vestigial Voice - I need help regarding my JBL PB 12 (Revision 1) subwoofer. The sub will just blow the fuse immediately after connected to power. I de-soldered the 2 capacitors (C1 and C2) and checked them. They are rated at 2200 mF and one measures 2190 and other one at 2270. Should I replace the capacitors? What do you think could be the reason for the sub blowing up fuses.
Hi Alok, if you properly tested those capacitors, then I doubt that is the problem. It sounds more like you have a short circuit which is allowing too much current to flow across the fuse, which, in turn, keeps blowing the fuse out.
The good news: if it weren't for that fuse blowing out, your hardware would be damaged.
As to where it is happening, you'll have to hunt around with that multimeter, good luck, my friend 🍀
check on the bridge rectifier for any possible shorts
Hi I have jbl e150p do you think it's same capacitor. My sub having buzzing sound and like shorted sound also. Thanks and advance
It certainly could be, juan. Open up your sub box to take a look at your large capacitors.
Please any help with JBL ARC Sub 8? Distorted sound that keeps going up and down. Thanks
Hi, Kofi. Sure, link a video in my comments of your subwoofer acting up and maybe we can figure out your problem.
Do you remember what diode you used? 600V or 800V? Also do you have link for the part? Thank you in advance.
Thank you for the comment, Axel! I placed the information in the comments, but probably neglected to add it in the actual video... It is an RS606 AC that handles an 800V max (if memory serves, the original was a 600V, but don't hold me to that). I purchased mine off ebay from a vendor in Europe, but you can probably find an equivalent on digikey or mouser.com. Have a great weekend!! :)
Thank you very much. Your knowledge is much appreciated.
@@axeljehovanymendoza did you ever continue on with this project? I think the module and capacitors are burnt out on mine. I would assume the diode is out as well. I think this happened because I hooked it up to a 6 way
Hi any idea about where to get the complete circuit of the subwoofer northridge e150p
Hey sherif, good to hear from you again!
I do not know where to get a complete circuit for that subwoofer.
What on earth happened that you would need one as opposed to just replacing a single faulty component?
@@VestigialVoice Hey, I don't really know, but what I have noticed lately that if the volume is low the subwoofer starts to try to kick in on and off quickly with no use but just a buzz sound
But when I raise the volume it kicks in and works properly..
also on the case the music stops it keeps buzzing till it switches off and the led keep flickering green/red gradually till it stops and turn red..
Do you have an advice ??
I can also load videos for the above.
Im having the same issue as well but it's Northridge E250P. Works fine for 30-60 mins and then the light starts flickering between green and red. Everytime it turns green as it flickers, there is the popping noise from being turned on. Tried all connections, ports, settings, and wires but the same problem persists.
Next, I will try to open it up like what is shown here.
@@archael18 In this case I think there is a different component that requires to be checked, rather than the capacitors as i have already replaced them with no result.. unfortunately
@@smmohy i've opened it up and checked. There are 2 failing capacitors and one exploded super small diode, it seems like. I will likely attempt a fix in the coming weeks. I had found a circuit diagram as well to make sure I replace the correct parts.
I doubt anyone will see this, but I am having the problem where as soon as I plug it in, the fuse blows. Caps are ok, I was sure the bridge rectifier was shorted, and replaced it, but it turned out that when out of circuit the BR tested ok and not shorted. So now I am out of ideas and hoping it is not the module, although I think I saw a post headline somewhere that someone was able to fix their module.
Anyone have any ideas what else could be causing this? I have been testing the board when out of the box, so nothing to do with the speaker. Also tested the transformer and that is ok. I really don't want to have to throw a sub I love out because of some $3 part... Help!
Are you replacing with the correct SLO BLO specc'd fuse, veloci?
How much current do you have hitting that fuse?
@@VestigialVoice yes sit. I then replaced the bridge rectifier, I was sure that was going to be it, but it wasn’t… :(
Bro I have almost the same problem with my jbl subwoofer 140/230. I am not familiar on using a tester. can I send you the video of the subwoofer having the noise thru your email?
HM, I checked out your most recent video, awesome drone footage and video editing! You've got skills :)
As for your question: If you'd like me to check out a personal video, upload it to youtube as "unlisted" and then link it in the comments here.
@@VestigialVoice Thank you for your reply bro! and thanks for visiting my videos... hehehe!
Here's the link to my problematic speaker, It's still working tho but currently when I play some music (for like 30mins), except from that crackling noise, I notice it does not blow that much bass unlike before, and sometimes it wasn't playing at all, it sounds like lose connection/wires, I guess it really damaged the electronics inside already I checked the speaker inside, speaker wires are all good tho.
th-cam.com/video/hszKWvsTl90/w-d-xo.html
Sorry for this very long message,.
Geez, HM, that noise would bother me ;)
From what I can hear, it's making the same sound as a subwoofer being plugged in, which almost leads me to believe, after large bass-hits, the power becomes depleted (or is a weak solder joint to the PSU).
Typically, there are multiple (usually 2) large capacitors. I would start there (see my first JBL repair video). With only 1 fully functional cap in circuit, the sub will eventually fail.
The good news is: this is a fairly simple fix. Make sure to get the polarity correct (+ and -). Also, I would recommend replacing both capacitors if you find that to be the problem.
You will be able to verify the failed capacitor, using a multimeter, after removal from the circuit (unless you have a ESR tester, which allows you to test without removing the capacitor).
Let me know what you find out!
@@VestigialVoice Really appreciate your reply bro.! I actually opened the electronics inside but I can't find any suspicious caps based on your repair video (or I am not really expert on finding faulty caps) I think base on your diagnosis it is better to get a new one. haha! Thank you so much bro... really really appreciate it! 🙏🙏🙏
You're welcome, brother :) I hear ya' about getting a new one (I always get excited for new gear), but also use this as a learning opportunity! Tinker with the 140/230 and perhaps you'll learn something (or even fix it)!
You know where to find me if you have any questions, have a great week :)
Thank You Sir!!
You're welcome, rich! Have a great weekend :)
so far so good with my unit,no pops or capacitors blowing up!
You are the man, Aaron! I'm glad to hear the videos helped! :)
Ok so it crapped out again. I replaced the two capacitors as they were both puffed up again. Still no good. The transformer inside was hot to the touch as well. Wondering if I should continue chasing this down or look into another unit. Although I have a Sony behind my couch but its mediocre in comparison! Thoughts? Hope all is well with you and family!
What happened when you tested the diode bridge rectifier?
@@VestigialVoice I didn't get that far. I swapped it out for the Sony and put it in my basement. How do I go about testing the DBR? Ohms test I assume?
@@VestigialVoice Please ignore my question! I do not have a meter with a diode setting & not sure if it would be worth purchasing as I have no use it other than for this unit. I work in a different electrical field and have access to meters and wondered if I can do a resistance check on this?
Maybe make a note on your 1st video almost called it good and just ordered parts
That's a good idea, sled. I think I'll do that.
Thank you for stopping by my channel, bud 👌🏼
What you need to do is take the amplifier out of the box and you need it take it out of the plastic part and have a fan blowing on it cuz it gets hot