I live on a hill. Very uneven ground. Didnt find this video until i got my front end loader all jacked up and on crooked cuz one end wouldnt line up. Now i have somebody heading up to help. The joy of owning your first tractor with a frobt loader
Really useful video. 99% (maybe more) of the "instructional" type of video assumes near-perfect conditions, but as you pointed out, it's not always the case for lots of us. These kinds of tips, about what you can do with a piece of equipment when everything doesn't fall perfectly into place, are what we need more of. Maybe you can make this the first in a "series" on how to deal with various implements and tractor operations in "real world" conditions!
Man this page is the best….. just had this problem and completely bent my brush guard….. had to remove it just to get the loader level enough to take off…. Glad I did…. Will go back and try this trick very soon…. Thanks!!
Thanks Neal, I have had that problem with putting the bucket itself back on my Kubota when I switch to pallet forks and then back to the bucket on on unlevel ground. Looks like you have "Wood Elves" where you live! Time to build the treehouse; trust me, time goes by fast and they will be too old before you know it to appreciate what dad built for them. Cheers
The only tip I'd add to the what is in the video is to place wooden planks under the bucket, so they are at right angles to the bucket. Place two or three there. The planks will stop the bucket from digging into the ground when the bucket is dropped. This eliminates the possibility of the one end of the bucket digging into the ground while the other end does not. This happened to me and it was a real pain to get the loader back onto the tractor. So get five wooden planks each around a meter long. Three go under the bucket and one goes under each of the loader stand's feet. This will make it easier to get the loader back on the tractor.
Outstanding information! I learned all of this the hard way many years ago before I had outbuildings and paved areas on the property. However, it was not without adding several words to the dictionary of cursing! Thanks, Neil! 👍💪
My first comment to you. I have watched your videos for about 3 years and this was the first time I felt like there should have been 5 more minutes of examples and explanations of corrective techniques. Also, a larger loader is more difficult to connect than a small loader when not set off in a good location. Please make a second video with a larger loader and more example of connection problems. Thank you!
Nice One Neil back when I was regularly taking the loader on and off the works BX 2350 used to put a brick under the middle of the cutting edge to rock loader level Thanks again
Yes indeed - not all of us have a perfectly flat area in which to stow our implements and such-like, and I thank you for this. Just BTW - I have some experience that I can offer you as an editor: "isn't necessarily necessary" sounds a bit like bureaucratic advice from the Department of Redundancy Department. But that having been said, I really appreciate your videos. They were a primary influence in my decision to upgrade to the Kubota Klub, as well as providing ongoing advice navigating the wild, wacky, wonderful world of tractor-and-attachment intricacies.
My grandfather always seemed to put his implements on top of blackberry bushes or something nasty. He said it discouraged thrives and kept the implement from sinking in. It certainly discouraged my brother and me from playing on them.
Mine is bent on my BX2680 due to a mishap reinstall attempt a while back. I just leave the loader on and remove the bucket if I need to LOL, I gave up on the whole quick tach loader. I don't mow my lawn with my tractor, and the loader was one of the main reasons buying a big garden tractor that accepts a loader LOL, so I came to the conclusion the loader is just a permanent fixture after almost dumping the loader assembly over sideways onto the tractor after one of the pins didn't line up with the J-Hook completely and went askew while trying to hook things back up. Would have been a very expensive mistake that KTAC wouldn't have covered.
Great video and great tips.... that was great to see the photo bombing happening... great stuff...build that tree house but put it as close to the house as possible and make sure dad and mom can get in or it may just be a pice of yard art....don't ask me how I know...
I found applying a little parking brake for the last few inches avoids rocking back on uneven ground. A 1” steel bar is also helpful. $40 at TSC. Investing in making a 6x8 concrete pad might save a lifetime of struggle with this. I never plan to take mine off and avoiding all this.
If you mow with your machine, then taking the loader off will be a revelation. My B drives like a race car without the loader. Well, not really, it drives like a tractor, but it doesn't buck up and down like it does with the loader on, and it doesn't chew out the lawn as much. And it really pays dividends not having to fix things you accidentally hit with the loader - some of my mowing is close to the house or to landscaping. Taking the loader off is really very easy, I mow twice a week and probably use the loader once a week - so I have it on or off about once a week.
I took my loader off on my carport, still made for an interesting reinstall. Everyone always says to remove the loader on a nice flat level surface...uhh huh, sure. Done that. Went to hook back up to it and that's where the problems began. I thought it was lined up on the j-hooks on the bottom, one of the arms of the loader wasn't quite there, didn't realize it till I started lifting the loader and it slipped off the hook on the loader mount, came real close to dumping the loader over onto the tractor....would have been an extremely expensive oops, as I'm pretty sure KTAC wouldn't cover one of those I'm an idiot moments. Wish you had this video out sooner LOL. The first couple times I removed/reinstalled my loader on my BX2680 was frightening. I realize now after watching this video what happened. Even on a level surface, once you disconnect the hydraulics the loader may settle a bit and could very well settle unevenly. Which apparently was my case, or rather the lack of proper depth perception caused me to not get the tractor positioned between the boom arms of the loader, so when I went to reinstall it, the right side of the loader just wasn't lined up properly. I've gotta go take the loader off my tractor again one of these days and try it again and pay closer attention to how I reproach the loader when I go to reinstall it. Its an easy process, but you gotta pay attention for sure, and in my case I'll get off the tractor and double check next time, from the seat things looked aligned to me. Or I may have a helper take a look if needed LOL.
Gets easier the more you do it. I tend to drive my tractor hard into the arms, it forces them to even out. Then use the loader joystick to rock the arms down into their seat, then curl the bucket to line up the top pins. Which will make no sense if you haven't done it, but if you go do it 5 times, you'll come back and read this and go "oh, yeah, that's exactly what I'm doing too".
I live on a small 50×175 property and can't leave my Sno-Way snow plow for my Tacoma in the one lane driveway so I have to leave it on the lawn which can be a real pain in the butt ! If the ground isn't in the same state, frozen or thawed, as when I last unhooked the plow, nothing ever lines up. This can turn an easy two minute job in to ten to twenty minutes of frustration.
I love these videos! I’ve lived in rural areas my whole life, growing up I’ve always had some sort of tractor on the property (or several). In your videos you do a great job of explaining how things work and what to expect with your new equipment. As I get older I find I’m less and less interested in constantly trying to keep my old equipment running or going outside in the winter to clear snow on a tractor without a cab and heat. For a buyer like myself looking to transition from an old Ford NAA 20-25hp to a new Kubota what would be a good comparison model with a cab? I already have all my 3pt hitch implements I need and don’t want to buy again. When you put a 72” bush hog or 60” blower behind a 20-25hp tractor it looks massive compared to the old NAA of the same HP! I guess I’d like to see a side by side comparison of a older tractor vs a new kubota cab model. I just want to make sure I buy the right machine for what I’m doing. Can you help?
If you have the space, then the small Grand L is not a lot more expensive than an LX, but it's quite a bit more tractor. You'll want similar weight to what you had, and the LX is a relatively small machine. Don't get me wrong - the LX is super capable, small 4WD tractors do a lot more than you expect. But if you can get the Grand L, get it - my impression is most people don't get it because they can't have a bigger tractor, not because it costs more.
Hi Neil, First i wanna say Thank You for your videos. My question is what are those bubble "things" on the loader torsion bar with the valve??? What is that assembly for?
we need more tire tread comparison but i want to see more of that zig-zag bar turf tire in the mix. i was really impressed with it in grass. How does it do in snow/muddy conditions?
What are those small black tanks that appear to part of the hydraulics on the loader? Also, I was thinking about this issue with hydraulic lines on the disconnected implement developing pressure when they get warm. Seems like there could be a market for a widget that plugs into one of the coupler lines that's basically a one-way valve that would allow the pressure to relieve itself, but not allow moisture back in when they cool. The amount of hydraulic fluid it would weep when it vents would be next to nothing, so no environmental issues. I don't know if someone could hit a $20 price point with those, but if you're someone who fights with that issue frequently, they could be helpful.
I don't think we're looking at the same thing. At 1:54, you'll see directly behind the bucket (in the center) a silver valve, then a tank (?) that's mounted vertically, then a tank (?) that's mounted horizontally, both with a light blue or grey cap. I'm familiar with the chainsaw mounting slot. That's a Sawhaul, and I have one of those also (and they're great!).
@@JCWren i believe it is an accumulator, the loader may have ability to be in "autoride" ( case backhoe terminology). It dampens the bounce you get from the loader at higher travel speeds.
I've tried 3 times to take the loader off my 2019 New Holland Workmaster 40, and no dice. In fact, last time I tried I slightly bent the mounting bracket on the right hand side. Quick detach loader my ass........
I'd love to see a video on attaching and removing a tiller - say, an RTA1266 just to choose one at random. I'm currently doing it with 2 floor jacks and it takes about an hour. The procedure in the manual doesn't work, even on a flat concrete floor. I can do a "rotary brush cutter" in 5 minutes.
@@MessicksEquip I pull out the top link pin, then the bottom link pins, then it falls backward and imitates a dead bug with its legs up in the air. :-) I would need a top link that extends about an extra foot to hook up again. I've taken to putting a jack under the back (where the door forms a hinge) before I unhook it, but that can't be normal. MX4800, extendable link arms, RTA1266. Fantastic machine, turns red clay into potting soil, clearly I'm doing something wrong.
@@erikscott5709 Do you have a way to put your tiller on a pallet? If so, that's what I'd do....rather that is what I did. Like you my RTR0550 decides that once that top link is off its gonna rotate itself around upside down, I guess a nice thing if you want to inspect or replace tines but for storage and reattachment later its a pain. Reason being is if you do not set the tiller down on its skids the tines hit the ground first, and cause the tiller housing itself to rotate independent from the tine shaft. So, what I did is I unhook my tiller on a pallet that I attached a couple chains to, this allows me to chain the tiller down so it cannot move out of position. When its time to use the tiller again, all I do is backup to the pallet with the quick hitch on the 3 point, lift the tiller and drive forward off the pallet then lower the tiller and connect the PTO. FYI the parking stands on these tillers are installed on the wrong side of the tine housing IMO...they should be on the back which would prevent the tiller from being able to rotate itself on its tine rotor shaft...a parking stand on opposing corners would work best. Wish we could post pictures here on how I did mine to make it easier for others, I think pretty much everyone has this same issue LOL. I love my roto-tiller, but dang its the worst implement to try and hookup and unhook till you find a way to unhook it so it doesn't do the dead cockroach on you LOL.
Seems ridiculous..if you can afford a $20k tractor you should be able to afford a shelter with a concrete slab. I would hate to leave equipment out in event it would get stolen and its too much money just to leave it out getting ruined.
Or sometimes your somewhere other then your own place. For example a friend, neighbor or customer. And you don't feel like hauling the tractor all the way home just to remove the loader so you can attach something else.
I live on a hill. Very uneven ground. Didnt find this video until i got my front end loader all jacked up and on crooked cuz one end wouldnt line up. Now i have somebody heading up to help. The joy of owning your first tractor with a frobt loader
Really useful, that with the recent take loader off for mowing is great - one of the biggest reasons I brought a Kubota was Messicks videos
Really useful video. 99% (maybe more) of the "instructional" type of video assumes near-perfect conditions, but as you pointed out, it's not always the case for lots of us. These kinds of tips, about what you can do with a piece of equipment when everything doesn't fall perfectly into place, are what we need more of. Maybe you can make this the first in a "series" on how to deal with various implements and tractor operations in "real world" conditions!
Man this page is the best….. just had this problem and completely bent my brush guard….. had to remove it just to get the loader level enough to take off…. Glad I did…. Will go back and try this trick very soon…. Thanks!!
Totally thought your first words would be "dont". But I love how honest and realistic this is.
Great advice Neal. I used to fight with all those things you mentioned. Then, last summer, I built a 40 x 60 barndimonium. 😀
Thanks Neil, great tips, haven’t tried taking my loader off yet, gives me a bit more confidence.
Thanks Neal, I have had that problem with putting the bucket itself back on my Kubota when I switch to pallet forks and then back to the bucket on on unlevel ground. Looks like you have "Wood Elves" where you live! Time to build the treehouse; trust me, time goes by fast and they will be too old before you know it to appreciate what dad built for them. Cheers
The only tip I'd add to the what is in the video is to place wooden planks under the bucket, so they are at right angles to the bucket. Place two or three there. The planks will stop the bucket from digging into the ground when the bucket is dropped. This eliminates the possibility of the one end of the bucket digging into the ground while the other end does not. This happened to me and it was a real pain to get the loader back onto the tractor.
So get five wooden planks each around a meter long. Three go under the bucket and one goes under each of the loader stand's feet. This will make it easier to get the loader back on the tractor.
Outstanding information! I learned all of this the hard way many years ago before I had outbuildings and paved areas on the property. However, it was not without adding several words to the dictionary of cursing! Thanks, Neil! 👍💪
My first comment to you. I have watched your videos for about 3 years and this was the first time I felt like there should have been 5 more minutes of examples and explanations of corrective techniques. Also, a larger loader is more difficult to connect than a small loader when not set off in a good location. Please make a second video with a larger loader and more example of connection problems. Thank you!
We have all been there at some point, great tips.
this gives me hope! I haven't taken off my FEL because I don't have a nice concrete or asphalt pad. just hard packed gravel driveway and grass.
Nice One Neil back when I was regularly taking the loader on and off the works BX 2350 used to put a brick under the middle of the cutting edge to rock loader level Thanks again
Yes indeed - not all of us have a perfectly flat area in which to stow our implements and such-like, and I thank you for this.
Just BTW - I have some experience that I can offer you as an editor: "isn't necessarily necessary" sounds a bit like bureaucratic advice from the Department of Redundancy Department.
But that having been said, I really appreciate your videos. They were a primary influence in my decision to upgrade to the Kubota Klub, as well as providing ongoing advice navigating the wild, wacky, wonderful world of tractor-and-attachment intricacies.
So helpful I have this problem all the time
Yep, the more you do it the easier it will get. Although it can be frustrating, I sometimes just stop calm down, scratch my head and start over. 👍
My grandfather always seemed to put his implements on top of blackberry bushes or something nasty. He said it discouraged thrives and kept the implement from sinking in. It certainly discouraged my brother and me from playing on them.
Wish this was published prior to me breaking my FEL. the kickstand is all jacked up now.
Mine is bent on my BX2680 due to a mishap reinstall attempt a while back. I just leave the loader on and remove the bucket if I need to LOL, I gave up on the whole quick tach loader. I don't mow my lawn with my tractor, and the loader was one of the main reasons buying a big garden tractor that accepts a loader LOL, so I came to the conclusion the loader is just a permanent fixture after almost dumping the loader assembly over sideways onto the tractor after one of the pins didn't line up with the J-Hook completely and went askew while trying to hook things back up. Would have been a very expensive mistake that KTAC wouldn't have covered.
This video would of been a life saver a month ago
Thanks Neil! Looks like you have a future operator at the ready..
I have an operator who's 13, and a future operator who's 8. I'm loosing half my seat time (that I want) to my kids.
@@MessicksEquip as many will say, enjoy it now. Before too long it's just a memory..
@@MessicksEquip Get a second tractor. Then you can work together......or maybe a mini-ex.
Great practical video. The ground is never level for me.
Good info Neil. Thanks for the video. Barndimonium… love it.
Great video and great tips.... that was great to see the photo bombing happening... great stuff...build that tree house but put it as close to the house as possible and make sure dad and mom can get in or it may just be a pice of yard art....don't ask me how I know...
Thanks Neit. That was a great video!
I found applying a little parking brake for the last few inches avoids rocking back on uneven ground. A 1” steel bar is also helpful. $40 at TSC. Investing in making a 6x8 concrete pad might save a lifetime of struggle with this. I never plan to take mine off and avoiding all this.
If you mow with your machine, then taking the loader off will be a revelation. My B drives like a race car without the loader. Well, not really, it drives like a tractor, but it doesn't buck up and down like it does with the loader on, and it doesn't chew out the lawn as much. And it really pays dividends not having to fix things you accidentally hit with the loader - some of my mowing is close to the house or to landscaping. Taking the loader off is really very easy, I mow twice a week and probably use the loader once a week - so I have it on or off about once a week.
Loader, no problem. Reattaching backhoe on uneven ground when temperature changes by about 50 degrees, that requires a good deal of bad language.😁
I took my loader off on my carport, still made for an interesting reinstall. Everyone always says to remove the loader on a nice flat level surface...uhh huh, sure. Done that. Went to hook back up to it and that's where the problems began. I thought it was lined up on the j-hooks on the bottom, one of the arms of the loader wasn't quite there, didn't realize it till I started lifting the loader and it slipped off the hook on the loader mount, came real close to dumping the loader over onto the tractor....would have been an extremely expensive oops, as I'm pretty sure KTAC wouldn't cover one of those I'm an idiot moments.
Wish you had this video out sooner LOL. The first couple times I removed/reinstalled my loader on my BX2680 was frightening. I realize now after watching this video what happened. Even on a level surface, once you disconnect the hydraulics the loader may settle a bit and could very well settle unevenly. Which apparently was my case, or rather the lack of proper depth perception caused me to not get the tractor positioned between the boom arms of the loader, so when I went to reinstall it, the right side of the loader just wasn't lined up properly. I've gotta go take the loader off my tractor again one of these days and try it again and pay closer attention to how I reproach the loader when I go to reinstall it. Its an easy process, but you gotta pay attention for sure, and in my case I'll get off the tractor and double check next time, from the seat things looked aligned to me. Or I may have a helper take a look if needed LOL.
Gets easier the more you do it. I tend to drive my tractor hard into the arms, it forces them to even out. Then use the loader joystick to rock the arms down into their seat, then curl the bucket to line up the top pins. Which will make no sense if you haven't done it, but if you go do it 5 times, you'll come back and read this and go "oh, yeah, that's exactly what I'm doing too".
I live on a small 50×175 property and can't leave my Sno-Way snow plow for my Tacoma in the one lane driveway so I have to leave it on the lawn which can be a real pain in the butt ! If the ground isn't in the same state, frozen or thawed, as when I last unhooked the plow, nothing ever lines up. This can turn an easy two minute job in to ten to twenty minutes of frustration.
I love these videos! I’ve lived in rural areas my whole life, growing up I’ve always had some sort of tractor on the property (or several). In your videos you do a great job of explaining how things work and what to expect with your new equipment. As I get older I find I’m less and less interested in constantly trying to keep my old equipment running or going outside in the winter to clear snow on a tractor without a cab and heat. For a buyer like myself looking to transition from an old Ford NAA 20-25hp to a new Kubota what would be a good comparison model with a cab? I already have all my 3pt hitch implements I need and don’t want to buy again. When you put a 72” bush hog or 60” blower behind a 20-25hp tractor it looks massive compared to the old NAA of the same HP! I guess I’d like to see a side by side comparison of a older tractor vs a new kubota cab model. I just want to make sure I buy the right machine for what I’m doing. Can you help?
In Kubota, LX or a small Grand L. Once you butt hits the seat you'll know quick.
If you have the space, then the small Grand L is not a lot more expensive than an LX, but it's quite a bit more tractor. You'll want similar weight to what you had, and the LX is a relatively small machine. Don't get me wrong - the LX is super capable, small 4WD tractors do a lot more than you expect. But if you can get the Grand L, get it - my impression is most people don't get it because they can't have a bigger tractor, not because it costs more.
Hi Neil, First i wanna say Thank You for your videos. My question is what are those bubble "things" on the loader torsion bar with the valve??? What is that assembly for?
Soft ride accumulators.
Some good tips, thanks
Great video, also has anyone ever told you that you look just like Mack from Its always sunny in Philadelphia?!
Several times, I need to watch the show sometime.
Where there's a will there's a way - good video I think we've all been there. :)
No, I'm will, and I'm telling you there's no way...sorry couldn't resist LOL.
Nicely informative as usual sir - now go clean the mud off those wheels! 😀
I always use concrete pavers under the stand and bucket lip when taking the loader off on the dirt.
What are the black things at the front of the loader and the ball valve for?
Hydraulic Accumulator - Keep an eye out for the video releasing in the next couple weeks!
we need more tire tread comparison but i want to see more of that zig-zag bar turf tire in the mix. i was really impressed with it in grass. How does it do in snow/muddy conditions?
honestly not sure. I hear good things, but I've not had much seat time on those.
@@MessicksEquip I can hardly find a mention of them other than your one tire comparison video. Its like they don't exist.
Put a couple 2x4s under the bucket when you remove the loader. Makes reattaching MUCH easier.. ask me how I know......
Can you please share more information about the chainsaw holder you have on your loader?
Search, he did a video on them probably 1-2 years ago.
Saw Haul Chain Saw Carrier | Features, Fit & Installation - th-cam.com/video/6V-qGtWKRYQ/w-d-xo.html
Saw Haul Universal Chainsaw Carrier Kit for Tractors - messicks.com/part/sh001cct/sawhaul-universal-chainsaw-carrier-kit-for-tr
Saw Haul Universal Chainsaw Carrier Kit for ROPS - messicks.com/part/sh003ccr/sawhaul-universal-chainsaw-carrier-kit-for-ro
You have a tractor, why don't you make a level spot ?
Is that a chainsaw mount on the side of your loader? If it is where are they available?
Thanks, love the videos you put out.
www.messicks.com/part/sh001cct/sawhaul-universal-chainsaw-carrier-kit-for-tr
What are those small black tanks that appear to part of the hydraulics on the loader? Also, I was thinking about this issue with hydraulic lines on the disconnected implement developing pressure when they get warm. Seems like there could be a market for a widget that plugs into one of the coupler lines that's basically a one-way valve that would allow the pressure to relieve itself, but not allow moisture back in when they cool. The amount of hydraulic fluid it would weep when it vents would be next to nothing, so no environmental issues. I don't know if someone could hit a $20 price point with those, but if you're someone who fights with that issue frequently, they could be helpful.
That black thing isn't a tank, though now that you mention it I see the resemblance. It's a chainsaw mounting slot.
I don't think we're looking at the same thing. At 1:54, you'll see directly behind the bucket (in the center) a silver valve, then a tank (?) that's mounted vertically, then a tank (?) that's mounted horizontally, both with a light blue or grey cap.
I'm familiar with the chainsaw mounting slot. That's a Sawhaul, and I have one of those also (and they're great!).
@@JCWren i believe it is an accumulator, the loader may have ability to be in "autoride" ( case backhoe terminology). It dampens the bounce you get from the loader at higher travel speeds.
Yes, its an accumulator. I have a bunch of dirt work coming up once the weather warms. Video is in the works.
I've tried 3 times to take the loader off my 2019 New Holland Workmaster 40, and no dice. In fact, last time I tried I slightly bent the mounting bracket on the right hand side. Quick detach loader my ass........
They grow up quick, dont put off building the tree house
I'd love to see a video on attaching and removing a tiller - say, an RTA1266 just to choose one at random. I'm currently doing it with 2 floor jacks and it takes about an hour. The procedure in the manual doesn't work, even on a flat concrete floor. I can do a "rotary brush cutter" in 5 minutes.
what makes the tiller different than your rotary cutter?
@@MessicksEquip I pull out the top link pin, then the bottom link pins, then it falls backward and imitates a dead bug with its legs up in the air. :-) I would need a top link that extends about an extra foot to hook up again. I've taken to putting a jack under the back (where the door forms a hinge) before I unhook it, but that can't be normal.
MX4800, extendable link arms, RTA1266. Fantastic machine, turns red clay into potting soil, clearly I'm doing something wrong.
@@erikscott5709 Do you have a way to put your tiller on a pallet? If so, that's what I'd do....rather that is what I did. Like you my RTR0550 decides that once that top link is off its gonna rotate itself around upside down, I guess a nice thing if you want to inspect or replace tines but for storage and reattachment later its a pain. Reason being is if you do not set the tiller down on its skids the tines hit the ground first, and cause the tiller housing itself to rotate independent from the tine shaft. So, what I did is I unhook my tiller on a pallet that I attached a couple chains to, this allows me to chain the tiller down so it cannot move out of position. When its time to use the tiller again, all I do is backup to the pallet with the quick hitch on the 3 point, lift the tiller and drive forward off the pallet then lower the tiller and connect the PTO.
FYI the parking stands on these tillers are installed on the wrong side of the tine housing IMO...they should be on the back which would prevent the tiller from being able to rotate itself on its tine rotor shaft...a parking stand on opposing corners would work best. Wish we could post pictures here on how I did mine to make it easier for others, I think pretty much everyone has this same issue LOL.
I love my roto-tiller, but dang its the worst implement to try and hookup and unhook till you find a way to unhook it so it doesn't do the dead cockroach on you LOL.
@@wildbill23c I have some pallets and a good supply of ratchet straps. I'll try this, probably Wed or Thurs. Thanks!
@@erikscott5709 There is a parking stand in the front corner. With this down, it should prevent "dead bug syndrome"
"Use the Force Neal" - obi wan Kenobi - probably...
OBI WAN KUBOTI
cool
If the slope is constant, it's not much different than level.
A little thought can prevent a lot of work.
Hurry up Dad! 😀
My tractors are bigger. All have loaders. Only once did I take my loader off and that was because I leaking cylinder I deferred repairing.
Do you identify as a privileged spokesmodel Neil?
Seems ridiculous..if you can afford a $20k tractor you should be able to afford a shelter with a concrete slab. I would hate to leave equipment out in event it would get stolen and its too much money just to leave it out getting ruined.
Maybe it was a choice between the tractor or the shed. Sometimes sheds are built that do not have a concrete floor. I have one.
If that were true, the world would be a perfect place!
Or sometimes your somewhere other then your own place. For example a friend, neighbor or customer. And you don't feel like hauling the tractor all the way home just to remove the loader so you can attach something else.
@@kdegraa - A limestone gravel floor would be ok, just something to secure and cover like wood shed with locking door would work.