BOLTR: DEWALT Carbide | Knife Blades
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.พ. 2019
- Long term testing of carbide blades for olfa box cutters. In my shop the extra cost of carbide does not increase the longevity.
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I got a bunch of these from work! Will post the ebay link in a minute.
Oh noeees Tony, you're that guy?!
Link please?
I started watching this video thinking i was watching This Old Tony, just be completely befuddled when i come by this comment
I have PayPal - I'll take two dozen! I'll need them to unbox my mini lathe when I order it. 👍
You mean the "minila the"
What I prefer about Stanley's blades is that they're just sharp enough to cut through skin but not through cardboard, so I can give them to my kids to play with without fear they'll make a mess
Best comment ive read all day
I think I know the blades you’re talking about. Back when I had a job opening boxes all day, those sharp-enough-to-cut-skin-but-not-cardboard blades were standard issue in the shipping and receiving department.
@@idratherbeoutdoors3753 they self-heal like a bench ; cardboard doesn't
@@charlyzzz ....touche sir......you can keep the kids but I'd like to know where you get those benches?
Big rock candy mountain???? Wtf?
When I was in my twenties, tinting windows, I discovered carbide blades and how well they cut... glass!
Holy F,! The pain of replacing expensive windows.
E30 M3 - When I was a young, I worked at a shop that installed car alarms and stereos. One of our services, was to etch the VIN, on all of the windows. (It makes the car less attractive to chop-shops.) I can’t count the number of times, that guys would make a stencil for a VIN, and then etch it on to the wrong vehicle. Some customers were alright with just having a notarized letter, indicating the mistake, to keep in their glovebox. Other customers, demanded that all of their glass got replaced. Like you said, it starts getting REALLY expensive. We started having them perform a ‘double-check’ procedure, before etching, but the mistakes still continued. We finally quit offering the service, because the idiots we hired couldn’t put the right VIN, on the right vehicle. I can understand your mistake. I’ll also bet that you didn’t continue doing it. Our guys never learned....... or gave a damn.
@@Willam_J Stupid is hard to fix, but sadly, easy to find. I had a driver fill a Tandem axle dump truck with gas during one of his many brain farts. He claimed to have never started it having noticed his mistake. I get to the location and find the truck 100 yards from the pumps, uphill... imagine that, both filters full of gas, I wonder how that happened? The worst part, he did it again 2 weeks later in a different truck, luckily both survived the incident. Now all the trucks have a big sticker to make sure you know the fuel type it needs, as if the clacking of a diesel wasn't enough of a hint. Same guy told me the fuel gauge in the backhoe didn't work, I asked him where he put the fuel, he proudly points to the hydraulic tank... ran that one too, what an expensive mess that was to flush the entire hyd. system.
My windscreen has a slash across a third of it. Trimming a sun strip with a swann morton no7 Handel with an 11a blade.
@@Willam_J I remember that VIN etching. Back then, insurance companies would lower your rate if you had that done. Honda Preludes were one of the most frequent cars for that service.
Sounds paneful.... Wah wah
Definitely cutting edge technology. Ave is sharp as ever today. Thanks for the video.
Very keen of you to notice.
Edgy, huh?
...cut it out with the blade jokes.
A bunch of dull humor around here today.
@@azwrenchmaster5334 a sharp wit is few and far between
As one of my customers explained once when I tried to sell him a premium tool: "the clowns that work for me will drop it on the floor and have a dancing contest on it, so I don't care if a tool is of "premium" quality - they break the cheap ones before they wear out anyway".
Pretty much true, except with some tools the “premium” ones are less prone to break, and with some tools, the cheap ones will break the first time you foolishly try to use them. By the way, it would profitable in the long run for that boss to treat his employees better or pay them more, or whatever it takes to get and retain workers who will not smash the tools.
There is a limit to that. A "premium" utility knife is total nonsense, but a premium air tool is in a completely different league compared to a low quality one, and will likely save you money in the long run by not falling apart when you need it the most.
@@censusgary Pure fantasy.
Just a shout out for a traditional British tool company, still made in Sheffield.
Footprint Tools.
I meet the owner at tool shows every year. Yes the owner is there on the tool stand to talk to the guys who use his tools.
Old school and how it should be.
Excellent tools too.
awesome tools..im a master mason of 35 years here in oz...love my footprint tools...love their line pins too...s & j...stabila..etc..tools i have relied on everyday...
@@tymiklic6463 Keep an eye out this summer for a new product from Footprint. I have been testing it for them but at the moment I am sworn to secrecy.
It is a variation on a current product but much better. That is all I can say.
The pen is the most important tool to carry with you so you can write down the tools that you need.
I give my number one tool the VIP treatment. I caress it every day and take it to bed with me at night.
The pen is useful for signing the cheque or credit card bill. It gets you things. I've heard that contracts can be sorted out by the use of a pen too!!
Santa claus just shakes his head in disbelief when he watches me.
Holy fawck are Olfa Black way sharper than normal ones, the scariest is when your trying to separate them from new and they’re all stuck in the preserving oil! Dangeureux!
Having worked in manufacturing since 1974 I had to laugh when you mentioned going to the tool crib to find they were out of some expendable. You know "That Guy", who will have a bunch squirreled away...... "Don't Be That Guy!" LOL!
Yep, The Guy who always has a new pack of inserts in their toolbox "just in case", which means he took the last pack from the crib without telling anyone and the lead time to get more is 2 weeks out, unless you know who The Guy is.
I prefer the double ended blades because they don't randomly break as often.
The carbide blades I've used don't seem to be quite as sharp as the standard blades, but are excellent for cutting acoustic ceiling tiles. Those tiles will quickly dull a standard blade, and will be tearing out chunks by at least the 10th cut, I've cut all day with a single carbide blade.
The box cutter. The go-to shop tool for self-administered minor surgery. Next issue...the gaffer tape band aid.
Oh no, painters tape is band aid. The blue stuff. My GF is convinced the glue inhibits bleeding. Got a roll at every machine.
No electrical black tape is the BEST bandaid. Can be tightened into tourniquet as well. In large scale commercial construction that's what we use. When we blow out fingers(smash fingers hard enough to split open skin) , cut ourselves etc. Safety fucks these days we gotta report even small injuries. Yeah sure ill report all the times my fingers get smashed, or every little cut/scratch. I got my tetanus shots im good. Large scale concrete commercial const. (High rises etc) is dangerous period. You will get hurt just a matter of how bad
Gaffer tape band aid, when you rip it off, a new wound free of charge. Rinse and repeat!
It's true that the utility knife/box cutter is one of the most dangerous tools in your toolbox or workshop. Emergency room statistics prove it. They just don't get the respect of a table saw from the user and they are really, really good at slicing skin. Even Mike Holmes (famous TV contractor) stated that he had only 2 serious accidents during his long career: one, when a six foot step ladder collapsed on him and two; when his hand slipped and he sliced a utility knife into his thigh and opened his femoral artery.
Little tip from someone who uses these knives all day. For breaking off the old blade sections, there is an easier and safer way. Stick the blade out so where you want to break it is at the end of the metal blade holder. Put the grooved side down against something solid, and put your thumb on the side of the blade. Push down with your thumb, while lifting the back end of the handle. It will snap right off without you touching the edge, and without the piece going flying anywhere you will find it later. Watching guys snap them by hitting something is a pet peeve of mine, after finding a few of the pieces in nail boxes, my pouch, or various other unpleasant surprises.
The urge to horde happens after every time the a shop shipment is late. You curse the gods that you have to get your hands dirty, because they are out of your beloved XXXL black gloves. So when they’re back in stock you take 2 boxes instead of one...and you’re not the only one with this affliction. So the natural consequence of this is two fold, first rather then a centralized stock of gloves available to all who need, the glove stock has become decentralized, and every one has 2 boxes in their bottom drawer. Second, the problem intensifies and they run out of gloves sooner, and the cycle magnifies and continues.
But that’s enough about me.
I had one of those guys working for me... When I actually found him with 9 sealed drill indexes, he had his last check in under 10 mins. We are not talking about the cheap 29 count ones that are chinesium, but the 115 count us made $200 a pop kind.
When I finally went thru his box too collect my tools I found almost 7k worth of new tools. I mean he had 2 mag 77 skill saws in the box. After that I went from an open shelf policy to a check in and out policy.
Boy I am glad I went from 38 employees down to 3.
damn and I thought I was bad for stealing two rivets from work to fix my toolbox
I used to work stick frame construction. (fabrication later) We used the normal box cutter style knives for tyvek, which has kevlar fibers. The boss had a firm rule that you changed your blade every time you got down a ladder so there was no fumbling around with blades at the top of a 40' ladder with a big sail of tyvek wrapped around you flipping in the wind. The blades got dull fast enough that this mattered. We had surveyed all the blades available and stanleys definitely lasted longer.
I was regularly mocked though because I would use my pocket knife instead, which they all insisted was a complete waste of time. Not if you have decent steel it isn't. Mine was a 3rd ish gen Spyderco endura with ATS55, and I could go from morning to lunch break and still be sharp, a quick touch up over lunch with my diamond stone, and keep going. Sometimes there is a "there" there. The VG 10 steel in the newer ones is even better. You want the full flat grind flavor. I have one of the ZDP-189 unicorn steel delicas too, but honestly I don't see any advantage over the VG10 one I have. I some times use it to cut aluminum burrs, copper wires, and about everything else. A really good pocket knife trumps these snap off junk things by a lot, and IMO is a lot nicer ergonomically too.
Here in the UK if you buy a knife blade with the Stanley name on it says made in China. I just get the cheapest ones possible and bin them frequently. The bin/skip is the most important tool in the shop, it's where you hide all your screw ups.
Need a security bin so no one can see. A few of mine have been zombie fuck ups, magically arising from dead to position themselves where everyone in the workshop can see.
aye, and good thing was a big 'un!
I dispose of my blunts via old metal screw top air rifle pellet tins. When they are full. I bin the whole taped up tin. Then they don’t razor my bin bags or me.
Swann Morton here in Sheffield... That's where the quality blades come from
@@daiprout323 Ooh, just down the road from me. The bad lads I was at school with used to get all their blades out of their scrap bins ...
Father was an old PA Dutchman......As am I. Tightest human beings in the world. Coal for Christmas......Pinch between ass cheeks......Diamonds by January. That's tight. Caught the old fella using a needle nose on his utility knife one day. What the hell???? He's snapping the hogged up tip of the blade revealing a new edge. Three or four new edges before he needs to use the marked break point. Who am I to deny my heritage? Third most useful tool......good needle nose!!!!
I use pliers, as well. Too much bumblefuckery with trying to just press and snap.
I work with a guy who sharpened his OLFA blade on a whetstone; kept it going in a heavy construction job for about a year. He swore by the black OLFA ones, the ones they advertise as being somehow "75% sharper" or whatever, said they were made of better steel.
He had a good cry the day that old blade finally snapped off on him...
Great, now all the Amazon Arbitrage channels are going to drive up the price of Stanley blades.
Who can afford to shop a Sobeys these days, I keep all my stolen blades in a No Frills box
I lucked out once and went to home depot to find several boxes (250ct) of husky utility blades (made in USA) on sale for $10ea so I bought 2 and now if it ain't sharp enough, in the trash they go. I think I've only used about 50 so far and it was a few years back, got love the clearance section.
ahh no better feeling than a fresh razor blade scraping off a gasket!!
Jesus! O__O
"Don't be that guy..."
Best advice you'll ever hear, kids. Pay attention now. Oh, and if you don't know who "that guy" is in your place of work, whatever field you work in, then it's probably you.
Every circle of friends has at least one "that guy" in it. If you don't know who it is, then it's probably you.
Don't borrow stuff, especially tools or money. Don't go for drinks and disappear to the toilet whenever it's your turn to buy a round. Don't bum smokes from people - either buy your own or quit. Never, EVER steal from friends, family or co-workers. The company? Sure. People you know? Worst kind of scumbag.
Don't be "that guy".
Those segmented blades are banned at my work. Someone had it fully extended trying to cut thick rubber. Bleeding followed closely.
They should’ve banned the individual not the tool.
yes ban everything
We've had someone drive an electric pallet jack off a loading dock tines first, so I can believe this.
Two uploads back to back, feels like Christmas morning!
Wait.... where's the other one
The only nice thing I can say about the harder blades is that they hold up a hell of a lot better on cardboard, well until you bounce the tip off the cement and get shrapnel in your coffee mug
Santas watching.... so do I put it in the vice or...?
Might as well, just to be safe
He has never once told you to take it out, now has he?
Poor guy really shouldn't have to keep reminding everyone to follow the SOP for a home invasion, when the old greybeard comes 'a trespass'n!
Here all people use cheap mora-knifes. Never break, just sharpen them with the grinder when they're struggling cutting butter. The elechickens even use some weird double or triple knife sheaths. One for nice cuts in the flesh, and one for whittling concrete.
@@myownsite Kyllä, the 4€ carbon steel moras are awesome for the price. If you dull it it's easy to sharpen and if you chip it or break the tip you can just buy another one.
They're also great for losing one's respect for properly sharp knives, getting yourself 5cm from a darwin award when you start fiddling with the good stuff. Not that I would know.
@@-The-fire-guyAnd no one bats an eye at a guy in dirty high-vis with one of those on his batman utility-belt, making it absolutely clear what the difference between a weapon and a tool is.
Mora is a classical brand used by all craftsmen out there... Another good brand is hultafors. Tough and reliable pro stuff... In scandinavia that is
I live by my fancy hooked blade. Im a lead worker, you need a knife that will allow alot of pressure on the tip, i go through the tips of stanley blades like fucking chewing gum. Only downside is having to sharpen the knife so often.
eMpo021 only downside of Hultafors tools is that they are not from Sweden (or even Europe) anymore. Some of their knives are “made with japanese steel” but the country of manufacture is a trade secret. I buy Hultafors levels and hammers on fleamarkets, the old stuff made in Sweden. For the mora type of knife, i would buy Frosts or Lindblads.
I worked with one of that kind. Never thought it would be a common behavior.
Grinding disks, welding electrodes, bolts, nuts, washers, and a huge chest of spare metal parts... None ever saw him put use for those, but they were there. Maybe this can be called a "just in case" guy.
Carbide is very hard, but it’s also brittle. That’s why “carbide” tools generally have little pieces of carbide stuck to bigger pieces of steel- that’s one of the reasons, anyway. So the carbide pieces tend to break, or they come unstuck from the steel. Actually, I’ve had the same problem with X-Acto blades (which are just steel, no carbide)- the tip tends to break off before the edge gets dull.
With all the tech AvE shows in his vjeos, this is trult a cutting-edge one!
I've also found
Stanley blades are the best. Might not be the sharpest out of the box, but they dull, and don't chip. The blade itself seems to be more flexible, meaning if you've got the blade out full length to scrape something and bend it a little, you've got more grace before it snaps off and flies into your eyeball. The blades that are harder and chip seem to fly further when they snap, and they snap more often.
EDIT: I fucked up, boys. I checked, I use Irwin blades. Those are my fav, and that's what I was referring to. I'm sorry if I lead anyone astray. Try a regular ol' Irwin blade, not the stanley.
For some reason I was expecting Stanley to come out on top. In the UK the name "Stanley" has been synonymous with shop knives for so long they are generally referred to as "stanley knives", much like you'd call a tissue a kleenex.
I agree - the Stanley blades are my general purpose go-to blade. If I need something really sharp for precise work, I use the black OLFA blades. More expensive, more brittle, but also more sharp :)
@@CDN_Torsten For really sharp and precise work, use sterile surgical scalpel blades.
@@RenThrayskThat's an excellent suggestion - will have to order some to try them out...and put 911 on speed dial :)
@@CDN_Torsten They are a million times more sharp than xacto knives and you can get 100 blades for a few dollars.
I'm a flooring installer by trade, and my go to for cutting material is an Olfa HB. I go through a 50 pack a week sometimes. I figure I've snapped more blades than damn near anyone outside my trade. After 15 year i can say with confidence Olfa silvers are best bang for buck on the market today.
I got an off-cut slab of polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE (teflon)) last week to make one of those sticker removing knives :)
Pro tip: most of these cutters have a slot in the butt end to insert the old blade and get a clean snap.
Looking through the comments for the same thing. It's surprising how many people don't know that little tip. They should include directions on the package like they do on toothpaste. (You know you don't rinse, right?) :D
@@jackenape You don't rinse? What?
Been a carpenter for 30 plus years and carried a medium size OLFA on my belt for about the same amount of time , I find the OLFA brand blades hold an edge the best. for the past two years I've been buying the black ones , they actually last longer than the standard ones, a bit expensive but we use them to accurately score veneers and hardwoods before cutting and find they work the best, but not practical and cost effective for general use.
5:06 Thank you for affirming this!!!! I once had an argumentative battle with exactly this kind of guy! I knew I was doing the correct thing. Thank you!
@AvE That Sobey guy (who went by the name of Randy back then) spent awhile at my shop too. He was into hoarding 13/64" drill bits at that time. Makes me feel like we're almost relatives, us both knowing him and all LOL.
tis a bond for sure
@@markgigiel2722 Needed for the pilot hole for a particular tap.
Mark Gigiel Common substitute for #7 drill bit, which is the pilot size for a 1/4” tap
@@TheJeffw5
We went through a ton of these bits (sorry for the mis size...it was 11/64 now that I'm thinking about it more) is what we'd use for the 1/8" buck rivets when replacing damaged semi trailer panels. The ones who couldn't learn how to sharpen their own drill bits had a toolbox full of dull ones, as well as being the culprit who raided all the sharp ones from the tool/parts room.
Carbide blades are worth it when doing repetitive cutting. Eg Drywall or ceiling tile. The tiles or drywall dulls blades very quick. The carbide do hold an edge noticeably longer in those type of conditions.
Worked on a site where we had to cut long sheets of felt material and the regular blades would go thru 2 sheets before needing to be swapped out then one guy showed up with carbide blades and we blew the 15 sheets at a time before they dulled. Worth it
Agreed
"Johnny, he does not even have a toolbox" I bust out laughing. Keep'em comming Uncle. cheers :):):)
Brother, I am the tool cage guy for our local municipality. Thanks for the explanation and thanks for letting all these people know that they shouldn't be hoarding or "aquiring" my items.
I settled on lenox golds years ago. Did find an odd carbide a while back that I was impressed with for about a day
Same, I've found the Lenox golds are my preferred price to performance compromise.
I always broke them cattywampus like that until I realized that you have to break them the opposite way (ie bend the blade the other way) because that's the side of the housing that has the metal going along the length of the score line.
You mean bend them down, away from the score line; bend them up, toward the score; or totally opposite, 45 or 90 degrees against (up or down?) the score?
@@squib308 yeah
Nahh. .they are like USB leads, they don't actually have a "right way" and a "wrong way", just "the opposite way from whatever way you just tried".... except when its the other way of course.
Brooks Ellis Bend them away from the score usually, so pushing on the table with the closed knife side facing you. Only works if you got the proper knife
the line is there so you know where to line up ya tin snips. to cut it right an proper.
I'm from very close by to Sheffield. I was surprisingly pleased to hear you mention little old blighty. 👍
So enjoy your reviews.
The only things I can think of still produced in England are Games Workshop miniatures and Raspberry Pi Zeros
Pi Zeros are dual manufactured (UK and China) now as well, aren't they?
I was disappointed when I found I couldn't get UK-manufactured Pi's anymore.
Hey Uncle Bumblefuck, not related to the video but I don't know of any other way to drop a line and having a chance of you seeing it. My stock and trade while I've been in school for engineering is swimming pool equipment, specifically robotic pool cleaners. After binging your videos over the past year I've gotten the knack of taking this stuff apart and identifying what fails, and even doing some "non-manufacturer approved" repairs. I would be interested to see what your take on some of these non-traditional tools are, and I could even send you some late 80s/early 90s era motors from Dolphin brand cleaners. Israeli and West German motors and electronics, interesting stuff. Newer stuff is shit, as to be expected, but interestingly designed shit nonetheless.
Bump
Bump
Bump
Bump
Sounds like fun to me.
So glad to see my home town still making steel it was once worldwide manufacturers of steel but slowly died over the years
Sheffield man here. Gets me in the feels every time I see we still make tools, known as The Steel City for a reason.
We didn't have a Johnny ..We had a "Chad" that bastard seemed to have Shop Shipment Radar.... Sad thing was he was only a Lamp Machine Maintenance Tech. 90% of the shit he stashed away in his toolbox and locker HE NEVER USED!! lol Like one of them Doomsday Preppers . HEY Chad!!! I need Charcoal Filters for my respirator so I can clean the mercury out of your machine!!!! The CAGE said you got em all!!!
The John Grimsmo shoutout :o
Went till 4 seconds, made my day, dumped in another vape load and hitted the spacebar again for the rest of the vid. Ha, good'ol times
Keep it coming
😂 ah yes Johnny the stores hoarder, every workshops got one, cracked me up when ya said that😂
Stuff like this is why there are kinfemaker fora where nerds agonize ad infinitum over the differences in properties and metallurgy of all manner of boutique steels. A blade has got to have a balance of hardness and "toughness" for its intended application. Whoever thought that the single most abused sort of knife around needed an edge that's as hard as a coffin nail, made out of brittle shit sintered to who knows what, is clearly in the marketing department.
Nails actually aren’t very hard. They’re made to be tough rather than hard. That’s why they bend, instead of shattering, when you hit them askew, and why thy bend a little, instead of shearing off, when you put some lateral stress on a nailed joint. It’s exactly what they are meant to do.
Texicles You know, some people actually like to cut with these knifes. Maybe those are the targeted audience of diamond fucking laserblades
Working on floors I wish carpet blades were made like that. Glass eats the steel blades quickly when trimming. Dirt eats them even faster on tear out. I think that there is a place for the tech somewhere.
Though pen/sharpie is king 2nd most commonly used tool is debatable. Back in my rock monkey days an olfa tied with the 12" Rastall miners special. Nowadays I would say it falls to the wayside compared with; a 6" pocket scale/scraper, a mini slotted/scraper, a Klein 11-in-1 (beautiful for on the spot diagnosing but not as a pry bar/scraper) or the apprentice.
For me, it’s still the Swiss Army knife. It won’t whittle concrete (not more than once) but the steel is pretty good, it really is “Rostfrei,” as they claim, and the extra tools are pretty well-designed. That said, the quality had declined since about 2000.
for me it's knipex cobra water pump pliers 180mm or whatever they call them in the US.
Number one tool.... Brains. Number two? Depends on the job , usually a hammer. A light 6-8 oz ballpean is my favorite mild adjustment tool.
I’ve been really impressed with the “serrated” razor blades
I love you your video's you tell it like it is and you are funny as hell 😂
A frickin blade with frickin carbide lasered onto it?
For some reason the image of an upgraded shark with fricken' lasered carbide fins popped into my mind, nobody would swim in the ocean ever again...
@@licensetodrive9930 would the shark also have a carbide laser on its head?
@@licensetodrive9930 and you could tell the age of the shark by how chipped it's fin was.
@@licensetodrive9930 I don't think the fins are actually the scary part of a shark, just saying.
probable translation...'carbide grit laser melted to cutting surface'...but apparently brittle, not like 'toughened steel'
I used the Stanley carbide blades at my work for cutting carpet on fibreglass boats, there a hole lot better than the standard blades, went from using 25+ blades on single boat to 2-3 blades per boat, they hold an edge longer cutting on the fibreglass
As soon as you said “Tools in a Sobey’s bag” my wife looked right at me!
You know, its probably the grid lines on your green mat that makes the camera so difficult to focus. I bet its locking on to it.
Good point, probably so.
its possible, but I think the camera is just self focusing on whatever objects it finds suitable lol
A week ago I'd have said too bad then, the mat is there to stay we'll have to deal with the focusing issues, but all kinds of things have been changing!
@AvE Solution: use single point AF if you have to use AF at all.
Yeah, but focus you fack is almost an AvE trademark.
I was unsubscribed but still got your email... and I know damn well I never unsubscribed
I've been contemplating on buying a carbide knife of any sorts... this vajayo really helped shed light on this, Thanks Uncle Bumblefuk!
*THE MORE YOU KNOW*
You nailed it when you said this is a “Shop hacker”.... I use it for everything. Weeds, boxes, wires, .....if it’s the closet thing.... it gonna get used.
Re: the Olfa Heavy Duty: that blackening aint the only think going for em. I used to work in a factory that made re-vulcanised rubber pylon bases (the ones with the 4" hole that a 3' orange tube sticks through). When I was a rookie they'd set me 8 hours of trimming flashing off those things and let me tell you. The plain-jane olfa blades you'd snap a bit off every hour but there's somehing about the black ones that lasted at least 2 hrs per section. Course, i had to pilfer them from my super's private stock if i wanted them, they don't just up'n give them to a rookie
I cut my thumb once with those. Right down to the bone. Bled like a stuck pig and healed for a month. Yeah, don't cut towards your thumbs kids.
It's all about the follow-through. Always known where the tool/bullet is gonna go.
A tear rolled down my cheek when you explained why you like the Stanley blades... Proud Brit here... Sobbing away.
On a side note, funny thing about my work store. We have to write a material request for an extra rivet, nylon washer, or a pack of cable ties, yet treaded fasteners are not controlled items, meaning you can take freely. From an m3 grub screw, right up to m36 bolts and nuts... Same with drill bits and mills(no carbide unfortunately) and files. From tiny to massive. Smooth to rough... I don't get that logic. "A 25mm end mill and a 36mm twist drill? go ahead." "Extra fine 12" flat file? Sure." "Pack of 100mm cable ties? Oh... You need to fill out a mat req form and get the foreman to co sign it. ".
Go figure.
Ave, my dad was that guy. What happened was now i have all the knives and blades i'll ever need in my life, as does my brother, mother, sister, a few friends and the guy who bought a bunch at the garage sale we had.
The best box cutter blades come from Japan. Olfa masterrace.
We have Titanium nitride coated ones here in Germany. Cheaper and even better than the Olfa ones. Olfa has also ceramic ones. Goot for some applications but overkill to open cardbord boxes...
Laser deposited carbides? Sounds like a complete gimmick. And how the primary grind looks to the bare eye should not matter on a disposable blade if it's actually sharp - the apex is cleanly formed and the steel is not burned.
I don't know how the "laser deposited carbide" works but I think it is similar to hard casing iron. During heat treating they wrap the iron piece with a high carbon compound and the heat will help sink the carbon into the workpiece. Turning mild steel to high carbon steel
No, in normal style Stanley blades they do a carbide blade, not much more than normal ones but last for a long time cutting gasket paper and rubber.
You really only cut with about the outside 0.1 mm of the blade- the rest is really just a wedge that follows the cutting edge. So on a pre-sharpened blade, that outer edge is what you ought to look at.
If you got a shitty grind on there that means the cutting edge is ragged and more saw like than a blade. Well, every blade is saw like on a microscopic level but you want a fine saw to call it a good knife.
@@allesklarklaus147 That's not inaccurate, but plenty of these are also polished at the very edge (at a steeper angle) after they hog off the initial bevel.
Thanks for the info. You the man!
Great video Ave
top tip if your in the uk carry one of these everywhere you go
And get arrested for carrying a weapon :(
TacticalFluke09 just tell them you’re a professional box cutter.
@@TacticalFluke09 Apparently you can't even buy a butter knife over there. Somehow it's classified as a weapon. God forbid you want some buttered toast with your tea.
How about ceramic utility blades? ;)
Duller than bleep in no time flat...
F that. Just go back to using flint blades.
Similarly, we used to occasionally use solid carbide end mills and drills in a CNC job shop. We found that as soon as the edge wore, there was no ‘give’ in the cutter and would break. It was really down to the substrate. For some applications, including 500 Brinell wear plate we used Fraisa TiCN coated HSS cutters. Their surface hardness was greater ( I recall it was 2700 Vickers) than tungsten carbide (2000 Vickers) but had a softer and more flexible substrate. Best of both worlds. Very expensive though, made in Switzerland.
You can't beat what works, Stanley!
I'm sorry, I'll keep my Olfa blades. Sharpest blades out of the box I've ever found.
Edgy video, but I don't get the point.
Bob, you need to "strop" what you're doing and take a sharper look...
Im not the sharpest tool in the shed but I believe I've filed the meaning down to a nice edge.
As a Sheffield man … I salute your Geographical appreciation sir … kisses form UK
Many years ago, I worked in a computer shop where we went through a lot of paper, almost all continuous feed, and we had true unitask box cutters. It was basically a block of very hard plastic that fit nicely in the hand, with a 90 degree cutout section that fit nicely along any edge of a box. There was a small, very sharp blade that stuck out from the cutout section, just far enough to go through the box, and just far enough from the top of the cutout to cut the side of the box instead of slicing into the side of the top. If that makes any sense. You'd take the cutter, run it along each side of the box, overhanging the box top, and in about two seconds the box top was a separate flat piece of cardboard you could toss, leaving the paper ready to feed from the box. What you have there, and call a shop knife, I generally just call a utility knife, but never a box cutter. If you're not going to use a proper box cutter to cut boxes, then a utility/shop knife is handy enough for it (you could just as well use an electric chainsaw, reciprocating saw, or a number of other tools), but they're also good for many other tasks, so it's a bit limiting to call it a box cutter. My favorite utility knife is a Kobalt folding model, easy to open or close with one hand, locks in either position, and blade changes are quick and easy, no eye protection needed.
As always, I love the viddies you put out there on the inter-nets. But what I really love are the PSA's that all us trade monkeys can learn from, or should.
"Don't be that guy". Truer words were never spoken......
Possibly the EARLIEST reminder of Christmas detected yet. Thanks for the heads-up !
"Don't be that f@ckin' guy!" Best advice for any line of work!
I like the olfa LA-X type of knife in accordance to the metal flapper on the bung end
Love the peek into Canadian industry at the end
I've got a friend who does leather working and he likes the carbide blades because they do tend to hold an edge longer when he's doing his rough cutting, he doesn't trust them not to chip when he's doing more detailed work of course, but it does keep him from having to sharpen his knives as often.
I've tried those Dewalt "carbide edge" blades and they were not impressive at all. Same for most other brands I've tried. The best snap blades I've ever used are made by Tajima. They are really well sharpened, and the steel they use is just of better quality. They don't chip nearly as easily as any others I've used.
The proverbial proof pudding was when I was trying to source an 18mm snap blade to use in my Makita 18v drywall saw. The Makita blades are ridiculously expensive for what they are, and they get destroyed when you hit a screw with them. Not that you're likely to hit a screw when blindly cutting into taped. mudded and painted drywall, but in theory it could happen. Every other brand I tried ended up shattering or became completely blunted after 20 or so feet of cutting. The Tajima blade (it's just 3 segments of the blade) I put in over a year ago, and cut several hundred feet of sheetrock with, still has a point, and the edge of the blade is sharp enough to cut skin.
Would also love to see a BOLTR on the Makita ( XDS01Z in case anyone is wondering.) Hell I'd even consider sending it up your way for one if you'd cover the shipping, didn't cut it in half with a chainsaw and returned it. Would be an interesting test unit for a snap blade comparison.
I love those black Olfa ultra sharp blades. All my knives are the 9mm size, so I don't tend to torque on them enough to chip the edge all that often.
As a drywall guy I use these knives often and the tap snap is done with the side with the bigger score down and hit on the opposite corner from the dingus edge.
Word of caution I received from a guy who showed up to work with an eye patch (and I've learned to trust their advice) : If you're going to be doing heavy duty cutting, don't get these flimsy 10mm wide blades for "mini box cutters". Your blade will snap-off and fly into every which direction. Get yourself a nice thick, beefy blade worthy of a 200lb gorilla. A reversible blade is preferable to a snap-off in many cases of heavy cutting environments.
Or, you know, wear eye protection.
I have had a very different experience with carbide utility knife blades. I haven't seen them chip so much and the ones I use have had a dramatically longer usable life than regular blades.
'Remember kids, Santa Claus is watching' 🤣
As a Sheffield bloke. Got some seriously great blades. For next to nothing got some really nice stabby stabby things
I knew a Johnny like that, he was a carpenter out in the refineries but always wore a bolt bag with a ball peen hammer in it. He always had whatever tools he could scalp off of any trade. Never carried any nails though, now that I think of it. Can’t right recall him sticking any scaffolding, pounding any nails or twisting any wire. He wasn’t the foreman either.......
Had that guy back in my old work place.
The guy was clearly a scrap horder. But the thing he was doing was that he slowly and slowly horded stuff, so in the end he had is own corner of the werehouse with a shit tone of stuff.
Now he was in charge of the incoming goods to the warehouse and where supposed to pack up all that stuff when in came in. But since it was filled with so much shit, he would some times get things wrong. And scrap a cable that was fine, since he mistook it for a broken one.
So what broke the camels back was when he mistook a brand new projector that had broke on a gig and was supposed to be repaired for scrap, and massacer it for copper and other shit so he could sell it.
Now that projector was some of the first ones to project 4K for professional settings, so it cost the company roughly 100k a pop for the company.
So the face off the boss was priceless when the guy who was supposed to repair it came in and told him that the scrap guy had torn it apart, beyond repair!
It was a face off 1000 burning suns!
Don't be that guy! That made my day!
In the back of the blade there is usually a piece that pulls out that you use to snap off the end of the blade at the correct angle.
I had to open this just to be sure you weren't talking about tooling. Very well, carry on.
I love every video
We use the carbide edge DeWalt utility knife blades in our machines for cutting plastic. They last way longer than any thing else that I have found. When Home Desperate stopped stocking the 50-pack of the blades I tried others, including Lenox TiN edge, and even my beloved Milwaukee, and nothing but NOTHING lasts nearly as long for that application (no impact, just miles and miles and miles of abrasion).