If you're British, you would ask, #Does it mould?" If you're American, you ask, "Does it mold?" Let's answer the question 😂🤪🤙🫡 Hobbying is fun! Like, share, and subscribe 👍
Silicone is pretty inert and should not be damaged by acetone, so theoretically, you could get a shallow metal or glass tub that is big enough to hold your silicon mold, and cover them in there with acetone, and then have the sprues melt directly into the molds, which afterwards you can just take out and let air dry (preferrably somewhere with good ventilation and in a room you are not in during drying, prolonged acetone vapour exposure is... not good.
@@andersand6576 it's important to take the lid into account. A Römertopf usually does not have a good seal, so your acetone would evaporate pretty fast. And if you choose something with a seal, make sure that acetone vapours do not weaken it... So maybe a metal lunchbox with a silicone seal, or a pyrex container with a silicone lid could work.
I see this method as being in contact with the acetone longer than the previous method which is a no no for me lol. Though I'd be wanting to work in a fume cupboard for either versions.
OK, I'm not going to lie, I was convinced this was going to just look _okay_ or _kinda good_ but honestly? Damn. That's impressive. A huge amount better than just wasting the extra sprues. Subbed.
Hirst arts sells tons of molds like these, fantasy, sci-fi, cave environments and so on. They recommend casting with dental stone or plaster. You can do 2 part epoxy resin, but the heat from the reaction that cures the resin will damage silicone molds over time. I used dental stone and it is far stronger than normal plaster and gives crisp details. The only downside is it is very porous and will require multiple coats of varnish before any washes cam be used or the stone just sucks in the wash like a sponge.
@andybrown9143 it is absolutely a deep rabbit hole to go down. I picked up 3 molds at gencon around 5 years ago. I wanted to buy so many more and build castles and cathedrals. settled for items to make bases and frostgrave scatter terrain.
@@13Nagash13 The last time I bought moulds was in the 80's and they were for good ol lead figures. Not sure if I want to reopen that habit again lol Btw would the PVA /paint mix used to seal plasterboard work with plaster or dental stone?
@andybrown9143 probably, but too thick pva might fill in details. I used airbrush primer, then basecoat of acrylic paint, 2 layers of drybrushing and was shocked to see the was I put on after soak right through instead of pooling in recesses. I think i spayed 3 coats of gloss varnish through my airbrush before the wash worked like normal. After that I either gloss varnished before primer or painted with highlights only and no washes depending on the piece.
I just bought the Sci-Fi mould from GSW and I thought "will sprue goo work in the moulds? Maybe I should try it", and bam, here's this video! I wasn't sure if the acetone will damage in any way the silicone. Thanks for the video, it was really helpful. I will try this!
@PedroBaele yes, my plan is to make them into buildings so the backs will be facing inwards and hidden. I can also double them up to form a wall with pieces placed back to back 🫡
What a lovely video! Thank you so much for sharing this! I had just seen a Goobertown Hobbies video about dealing with sprues, and Sprue Goo was something I hadn't heard of. I started wondering how it could be used for some other part of the hobby and here you are with an example! This is going to save so much plastic from the landfill for me!
I'm literally waiting for the same mold to arrive from Green Stuff World. While cleaning this weekend I also wondered to myself why I'm keeping a whole box of old sprues around. Your timing is amazing. Liked and subscribed.
Thanks for this video, I was just looking at some different Hirst Art molds but wasn’t sure if I wanted to deal with the weight of plaster…this might be a good alternative! Subscribed!
I've been doing this for a while, I have found a lot of success by adding weights. I make flat but irregular shapes for bases by pressing a blob of spruegoo down on some baking paper, and another sheet of baking paper on top, then weighting it with some wooden planks. after 3-5 days that becomes dry enough that it doesn't warp and stays flat. This gives natural shaped bases for larger creatures or terrain. For use with molds like you have, again weights is important, put the sprue goo in the mould like you do, then baking paper and a plank of wood, leave that for 3-5 days and you'll have a much nicer surface detaile piece, with a flat rear surface to attach it to another piece, or to a block of foam. I really need to get my own video on this subject finished, my last one was over a year ago XD.
Could make a cheap vibratory table with an obsolete jigsaw or powerdrill with variable speed settings, if you wanna scale it up and really squeeze those bubbles out
Pretty cool results! The micro bubbles are to be expected, but could be addressed with a bit of baking soda & super glue then filing/smoothing it out. Would be really good for basing or for sections of broken terrain e.g. the Osgiliath ruins from GW's LoTR line.
I figured it would work as Acetone doesn't really affect Silicone but damn it turned put amazing, it really looks great. Cool thing is you can throw all the flashing back into the Acetone and melt it again so there's effectively no waste. 👍👍
I have some toy soldier moulds made from metal from the 1950s so will give it a try to see if it will work with them as although casting metal in prince august moulds it's difficult to get the mould hot enough to pour the white metal in so a simple press mould might work with goo in both sides,press hard then clean of excess from mould,great idea with the building moulds,have used sprue goo for years melted in liquid glue but will give asertone a go cheers.
Wow, they picked up the detail really well. One thing I'd say is if you have a 3d printer you could design some backs forms to those moulds, like a stamp. so just a boxy shape with a handle, that roughly matches the shape of the mould, so you can use to use less spru goo, like how injection mould plastic building will have hollow dents in the back. And it will also help you push the goo into the moulds. Might need a release agent on it though, maybe cornstarch, or vasaline. And shape it so the sides are beveled so they pull out easily.
One thing that will help alot as well is pressure, having something heavy on top of it to put pressure on everything helps get into all of the cracks and also when it is hardening up:-)
Nice video. Glad i found your channel. Any chance you could test if sandwiching the mold between two flat pieces of metal would reduce the air bubbles and distortion of texture of the mold with spruegoo?
The front looks great on each part, I dont know if the backs will be an issue though for construction. I dont know if this is possible, but if you can thin down the sprue goo in some way, it may take longer to cure, but it might get you even more consistant results on the backs of them.
I'd be curious to know how many runs it takes before the molds start degrading. I've used Hirst Arts molds for similar, but I've never tried with sprue goo.
While I think this would be fine if you were looking to make ruins, the level of detail is actually pretty poor if you compare it to what casts made with the recommended material look like. You could probably improve detail somewhat by putting in smaller amounts of spue goo to start, and pressing into details with a small, rounded, metal implement. This will allow you to push out more air, and better fill in tight details and areas. As the sprue goo takes some time to set you should be able to take a bit of time to do this. I also have to wonder if repeated use will degrade the molds. Silicone is conditionally resistant to acetone, which is used to make sprue goo. While it will not be immediate, repeated use may slowly affect the molds and destroy detail, or it may not, as the exposure is small. Only time will tell.
Polystyrene melts melts around 250 C/500 F, and you would need moulds from plaster, sand or preferable metal. Dont think the this silicone mould would be good for it. Try search plastic injected moulding at home. Not saying acetone is healthy, but it is not the worst organic solvent. Alot of acetone is made at booze distilleries, where they separate it from the low wines. Still you should have some airflow when working with it.
@studiofoureightnine it definitely would work for smaller builds. It's 100% acetone. I brought it from amazon. You can see the bottle in my previous sprue video 👍 th-cam.com/video/tv_sddfpEes/w-d-xo.html
Great video, I've kept all my sprue extras due to not wanting to contribute to pollution and reusing them for this seems like a great way to recycle. What kind of cam are you using?
@VinceDavis-v4j thanks very much. I've had piles of sprues stored up I a box for years, and now I make them all into sprue goo 😀. I film everything on my phone. It's my home studio. Very basic 🤙
Looks amazing, but you're now going to have to buy loads more boxed sets just for the sprues. was looking around the house for any other plastic to be used, might be worth trying a few things to see if they melt. The backs of old tv's lying about the streets is one huge lump of plastic!
@andybrown9143 I have tons of models on sprues. I've got a bit of a backlog from 20 years of collecting 🤪. I should have enough sprues for a little while
Dont think getting enough sprues is a problem. Know a guy who got covid and needed to stay at home. He asked around and within a day 10+ kg of sprues had been delivered outside his door (:
Reminded of the time as a kid I had silly putty. And it got dirty and I tried to wash it off. BIG MISTAKE! silly putty plus water it becomes the stickiest substance known to man. Have fun getting it off your hands.
@@BrandonMichaels-we9vn I have so many sprues from models I've made 😀, so recycling them seemed like a good idea 💡 definitely plasters a good alternative 👍
Those little air bubbles are pretty ignorable considering they were made from what model makers intend for you to throw away! Make sure to keep the bits of flashing and any parts that don't look good enough, they can go straight back in the sprue goo jar.
Why not? The expensive machinery just automates the process and pumps out thousands of copies a day. You can make a few coies a day by yourself with a bit of skill and some patience. As you can see the results can be comparable to store bought items, the only real problems are gettting rid of air bubbles and keeing the anels flat when drying, it's not rocket science you know.
harsh chemicals and asthma educing smelly if you don't have the right environment to duplicate this method safely. great use of a product that would end up in the bin though!
All views welcome 😀. I like it, and the acetone costs only £9 for 1 litre. The sprues were just going to be thrown out. For me, I'm happy with the outcome but resin is a good idea 👍🫡
Just looked up the price of resin and not that cheap. Plus I like the idea of reusing stuff you've already got (even the acetone if you can steal you're wifes). I'd say they look ok for a first attempt and will get better with improved rolling technique. Or go spend ten grand on some gamesworkshop castle mega model.
@@BitsBoxWorld Yeah your acetone should last forever? or until it evaporates. Resin is about £20 a litre which would be an ongoing cost. If you wanted to do any serious building with resin I could imagine it heading to a few £100 worth of resin a year compared to next to nothing for sprue goo.
Resin is quite expensive in the UK, but I suppose you could do a thin fill of the moulds with resin first to grab the detail, let the resin dry and then pack out the bulk of the mould with the sprue glue.
If you're British, you would ask, #Does it mould?" If you're American, you ask, "Does it mold?" Let's answer the question 😂🤪🤙🫡
Hobbying is fun!
Like, share, and subscribe 👍
Little tip, if you can get your hands on butyl acetate and mix it with acetone at 1:1 you'll have a far smoother pour
@@PassJim thanks for the tip 🫡
Isn't 1:1 butyl acetate and acetone mix exactly what Tamiya (and many other brands) sell as thin cement/airbrush cleaner?
@@PeteOfDarkness the airbrush cleaner from tamiya is 51%/49%, while their plastic cement is 50/50.
@@PeteOfDarkness Yep exact same stuff, although some of their safety sheets mention a third chemical but I'm not sure it's that important.
Ethyl acetate also works pretty well and can usually be found sold as MEK Substitute if butyl acetate is hard to come by in your area.
Silicone is pretty inert and should not be damaged by acetone, so theoretically, you could get a shallow metal or glass tub that is big enough to hold your silicon mold, and cover them in there with acetone, and then have the sprues melt directly into the molds, which afterwards you can just take out and let air dry (preferrably somewhere with good ventilation and in a room you are not in during drying, prolonged acetone vapour exposure is... not good.
@@Weird_Viking that is an incredible suggestion 👏. Definitely need to give it a try. Thank you so much
Thats a great idea. Maybe Pyrex baking tray? Not sure im using the right word, have a glass römertopf that could take the whole mold.
@@andersand6576 it's important to take the lid into account. A Römertopf usually does not have a good seal, so your acetone would evaporate pretty fast.
And if you choose something with a seal, make sure that acetone vapours do not weaken it... So maybe a metal lunchbox with a silicone seal, or a pyrex container with a silicone lid could work.
@Weird_Viking You got a point there, chemical sealing should be able to do it. Especially when there is no need for heat.
I see this method as being in contact with the acetone longer than the previous method which is a no no for me lol. Though I'd be wanting to work in a fume cupboard for either versions.
OK, I'm not going to lie, I was convinced this was going to just look _okay_ or _kinda good_ but honestly? Damn. That's impressive. A huge amount better than just wasting the extra sprues. Subbed.
@bushybeardedbear definitely better than I expected. Thanks for the sub 😁
Really cool to see that sprues are reusable. Ive just jumped into the hobby, and have a lot of sprues leftover after building my Hivestorm box
@whatTheFup Hivestorm is an amazing box game. I'm a Tau kill team player, and the Vespids are awesome. I'm glad you liked the video 🤙
any air bubbles or missing bits, just seem to add to the texture give a more worn look
@@c4darkmane616 I agree 👍. I like my terrain to look weathered and battle worn. I can't wait to paint these up when I get a chance
Agreed. Actually old stones in castles sometimes have holes due to erosion caused by rain, so it actually looks better and more realistic.
@j.f.l.bousquet1998 great comment, thank you. I am super happy with them
The bubbles actually make them look more real, great stuff👍
@@SeorkMaxx thank you very much. I like the more ruined look 🤙
That looks pretty great. Even the imperfections might look like damage from age or battle. Excellent use of sprues.
Second that. Only added to the damage designed in the pieces. File, knife, and filler to modify more to preference. Very much like this.
I really like the look of this. Always good to recycle
I'm glad you like it. I had so many sprues laying around
Hirst arts sells tons of molds like these, fantasy, sci-fi, cave environments and so on.
They recommend casting with dental stone or plaster. You can do 2 part epoxy resin, but the heat from the reaction that cures the resin will damage silicone molds over time.
I used dental stone and it is far stronger than normal plaster and gives crisp details. The only downside is it is very porous and will require multiple coats of varnish before any washes cam be used or the stone just sucks in the wash like a sponge.
Checked the site, too much good stuff there.
@andybrown9143 it is absolutely a deep rabbit hole to go down. I picked up 3 molds at gencon around 5 years ago. I wanted to buy so many more and build castles and cathedrals. settled for items to make bases and frostgrave scatter terrain.
@@13Nagash13 The last time I bought moulds was in the 80's and they were for good ol lead figures. Not sure if I want to reopen that habit again lol Btw would the PVA /paint mix used to seal plasterboard work with plaster or dental stone?
@andybrown9143 probably, but too thick pva might fill in details. I used airbrush primer, then basecoat of acrylic paint, 2 layers of drybrushing and was shocked to see the was I put on after soak right through instead of pooling in recesses. I think i spayed 3 coats of gloss varnish through my airbrush before the wash worked like normal.
After that I either gloss varnished before primer or painted with highlights only and no washes depending on the piece.
I just bought the Sci-Fi mould from GSW and I thought "will sprue goo work in the moulds? Maybe I should try it", and bam, here's this video! I wasn't sure if the acetone will damage in any way the silicone. Thanks for the video, it was really helpful. I will try this!
That is amazing. I have the sci-fi mould on my wish list👍. I was nervous the acetone would damage the silicone, so far so good, no damage 😃
Wow the result was surprisingly good.
@@PedroBaele I was not expecting it to come out this well 🫡🤪. But they look great
@BitsBoxWorld will you be making them into buildings? The backs will need some hiding when using these.
@PedroBaele yes, my plan is to make them into buildings so the backs will be facing inwards and hidden. I can also double them up to form a wall with pieces placed back to back 🫡
@@BitsBoxWorld great, will check in on your future builds with these. Tx
Seems so simple, yet so effective!
@@jamesbronk5720 💯% 🫡
Was fully expecting you to destroy some molds as I swear I've seen somone try this before. Shocked to see them come out so well!
I'm surprised how well they came out! good stuff
@NikkiSiixxENTConsultingLLC So was I 🫡🤪
Love this idea. I'm a little terrified of the chemicals and fumes but maybe when it's warmer, I'll turn on a fan and give it a shot!
Yes, you need a bit of ventilation, door and window open 😉
What a lovely video! Thank you so much for sharing this! I had just seen a Goobertown Hobbies video about dealing with sprues, and Sprue Goo was something I hadn't heard of. I started wondering how it could be used for some other part of the hobby and here you are with an example! This is going to save so much plastic from the landfill for me!
Amazing. I am glad I can help 🤙. It's certainly a great way to use the waste parts of the hobby 😀
I'm literally waiting for the same mold to arrive from Green Stuff World. While cleaning this weekend I also wondered to myself why I'm keeping a whole box of old sprues around. Your timing is amazing. Liked and subscribed.
You're very welcome. It's great to have you. Thank you 😊
I'd love to see these painted!
It's coming 😀 . I'll have a video this week when I get around to it
Those came out very well! I wonder how this would work with a mold that fully encases the part, rather than a one-sided mold?
I'm planning on doing a 2-sided mould, I just need to find some time to do it 🤙
I’ve never done sprue goo but seeing this has sure given me ideas ty
ok thats cool that'd work for AOS or fantasy/similar games yeah :) the slightly rough effect from drying sprue goo adds to it
Definitely give a good ruined building vibe. Would be great in AoS or fantasy
Great idea, I have tons of plastic sprue, I'm definitely doing this!! Great video, thanks
Glad it was helpful! Have fun with it 🤙
Wow that worked really well. And all the flash could just go back into the jar.
@SeanCrosser definitely. The flash goes back it, no waste at all 😀
I suppose that would work for a "bad" casting too.
I have tried something like this more than once an succeeded less than once... Good on you!
Thanks for the video! Just ordered the molds from GSW plus a few others. I have to large bags filled with sprues to try this with.
Have fun! So worth it 👍
Love it. This is amazing looking
Wow! I didn't think it was gonna turn out quite as well as it did, but it looks like sprue goo way way better for moulding than I thought!
It's crazy. I didn't expect it either, but I am loving the result
Thanks for this video, I was just looking at some different Hirst Art molds but wasn’t sure if I wanted to deal with the weight of plaster…this might be a good alternative! Subscribed!
Amazing, I am now going down a Hirst Arts rabbit hole 😅. Thanks for the sub
I've been doing this for a while, I have found a lot of success by adding weights.
I make flat but irregular shapes for bases by pressing a blob of spruegoo down on some baking paper, and another sheet of baking paper on top, then weighting it with some wooden planks. after 3-5 days that becomes dry enough that it doesn't warp and stays flat. This gives natural shaped bases for larger creatures or terrain.
For use with molds like you have, again weights is important, put the sprue goo in the mould like you do, then baking paper and a plank of wood, leave that for 3-5 days and you'll have a much nicer surface detaile piece, with a flat rear surface to attach it to another piece, or to a block of foam.
I really need to get my own video on this subject finished, my last one was over a year ago XD.
@EDSKaR amazing suggestion. Thanks very much. Sounds like a good video when you can get it posted 🫡
@@BitsBoxWorld I need to start fron scratch sd I don't have enough footage of the process. In the meantine I'd be happy to share my experiences.
Could make a cheap vibratory table with an obsolete jigsaw or powerdrill with variable speed settings, if you wanna scale it up and really squeeze those bubbles out
Works great with plaster, not sure it work here as the spruegoo have such a low viscosity. You might need a pressure chamber insread
Where was this in my life about 15 years ago? I have thrown away so many sprues in my time that I could have been making terrain with?!
@jaypodoll-claflin6740 I didn't think about sprues until this year, and I have been hobbying for 20 years 😳. But no more waste for me 🫡
Unbelievable, I’m doing this as soon as I get home from hunting!
How did it go for you?
@@BitsBoxWorld hahaha I’m waiting for the molds in the mail
this is real cool and I'm gonna do this
Pretty cool results! The micro bubbles are to be expected, but could be addressed with a bit of baking soda & super glue then filing/smoothing it out.
Would be really good for basing or for sections of broken terrain e.g. the Osgiliath ruins from GW's LoTR line.
I figured it would work as Acetone doesn't really affect Silicone but damn it turned put amazing, it really looks great. Cool thing is you can throw all the flashing back into the Acetone and melt it again so there's effectively no waste. 👍👍
Constant recycling. If the molds fails, stick it back in and try again 👍
they look awesome! it's very warhammer, like the buildings have been through some stuff lol
@@benderxx1338 I love a ruined building 😁
The result is awesome ! I want to try those molds myself now hahaha
Thank you! Cheers! They are awesome
wow, so sprues are actually sort of infinitely recyclable? This is amazing
Definitely 🤙
I have some toy soldier moulds made from metal from the 1950s so will give it a try to see if it will work with them as although casting metal in prince august moulds it's difficult to get the mould hot enough to pour the white metal in so a simple press mould might work with goo in both sides,press hard then clean of excess from mould,great idea with the building moulds,have used sprue goo for years melted in liquid glue but will give asertone a go cheers.
Wow, they picked up the detail really well.
One thing I'd say is if you have a 3d printer you could design some backs forms to those moulds, like a stamp. so just a boxy shape with a handle, that roughly matches the shape of the mould, so you can use to use less spru goo, like how injection mould plastic building will have hollow dents in the back. And it will also help you push the goo into the moulds.
Might need a release agent on it though, maybe cornstarch, or vasaline. And shape it so the sides are beveled so they pull out easily.
Brilliant! I need to give this a try with some of the Hirst Arts moulds.
Thank you! Cheers! I need to check their molds out 🫡
One thing that will help alot as well is pressure, having something heavy on top of it to put pressure on everything helps get into all of the cracks and also when it is hardening up:-)
Pretty cool, my man 👍🏻 It would be great to see one built and painted 😉
@@paulofreire7520 definitely. I'll get one put together soon 👍🫡
@@BitsBoxWorldMaybe try making one with plaster aswell, to compare how much the texture is changed.
Hope to see the build and paint with these pieces soon.
Thank you for the video! I'm not a Warhammer guy, but I have all of my gunpla boxes and old runners. now if I can find some good molds for gunpla...
This changes everything! However I wonder how easy it will be do use the gloop with smaller moulds.
Nice video. Glad i found your channel.
Any chance you could test if sandwiching the mold between two flat pieces of metal would reduce the air bubbles and distortion of texture of the mold with spruegoo?
@andersand6576 definitely want to test with some weight on top to stop the backs buldging. Thanks for joining. It's great to have you here 😀
OMG. Mind blown.
Wow!! That was an amazing idea, this video has made me subscribe to your channel awesome...
@julianressa9396 welcome aboard 😀. Great to have you sub 👍
I'm very pleasantly surprised! Thanks for your very interesting video 😊
Thanks for watching! Very welcome 🫡
Good stuff! Subbed!
Welcome aboard and thank you 🫡
I've always kind of wondered about this.
The front looks great on each part, I dont know if the backs will be an issue though for construction. I dont know if this is possible, but if you can thin down the sprue goo in some way, it may take longer to cure, but it might get you even more consistant results on the backs of them.
I'd be curious to know how many runs it takes before the molds start degrading. I've used Hirst Arts molds for similar, but I've never tried with sprue goo.
It's an intriguing question. So far I've used them 5 times and have no quality loss yet 👍
Now I want to mold all the things!
It definitely opens a rabbit hole 🫡
Amazing 😍
You should try adding a bit of solvent first onto the mould, the main problem is air trapped into tiny crevices.
Great tutorial. 👍👍
Thank you very much 👍
While I think this would be fine if you were looking to make ruins, the level of detail is actually pretty poor if you compare it to what casts made with the recommended material look like. You could probably improve detail somewhat by putting in smaller amounts of spue goo to start, and pressing into details with a small, rounded, metal implement. This will allow you to push out more air, and better fill in tight details and areas. As the sprue goo takes some time to set you should be able to take a bit of time to do this.
I also have to wonder if repeated use will degrade the molds. Silicone is conditionally resistant to acetone, which is used to make sprue goo. While it will not be immediate, repeated use may slowly affect the molds and destroy detail, or it may not, as the exposure is small. Only time will tell.
Is there a way to make the good thinner? And if so could you pore it like a resin into the molds?
I'll do some research 🤔. Good question
How can you get the air bubbles out? Also, do you think sprue goo can be used to make replacement parts for actual missing pieces?
You should get a small vacuum chamber, that will help get rid of the air bubbles absolutely.
Cool but surely theres a way to just melt them? Acetone is really bad to be arround.
Polystyrene melts melts around 250 C/500 F, and you would need moulds from plaster, sand or preferable metal. Dont think the this silicone mould would be good for it. Try search plastic injected moulding at home.
Not saying acetone is healthy, but it is not the worst organic solvent. Alot of acetone is made at booze distilleries, where they separate it from the low wines. Still you should have some airflow when working with it.
What kind of acetone are you using? I think this would work great in smaller builds too.
@studiofoureightnine it definitely would work for smaller builds. It's 100% acetone. I brought it from amazon. You can see the bottle in my previous sprue video 👍
th-cam.com/video/tv_sddfpEes/w-d-xo.html
Considering the viscocity of sprue gue, I'm surprised there's barely any visible air bubbles
@jazzj2 definitely better than I thought it would be, and I've repeated the process multiple times now, and it gets better each time 🤙🫡
Great video, I've kept all my sprue extras due to not wanting to contribute to pollution and reusing them for this seems like a great way to recycle.
What kind of cam are you using?
@VinceDavis-v4j thanks very much. I've had piles of sprues stored up I a box for years, and now I make them all into sprue goo 😀. I film everything on my phone. It's my home studio. Very basic 🤙
@@BitsBoxWorld Your phone has a good cam! Thanks for the reply!
Cann you melt down other plastic waste? in the long terme is the aceton also damage the Mold?
Hirst art molds are cool for dnd and wargaming molds!
Let’s see some more examples of sprue gloo in moulds!
Looks amazing, but you're now going to have to buy loads more boxed sets just for the sprues. was looking around the house for any other plastic to be used, might be worth trying a few things to see if they melt. The backs of old tv's lying about the streets is one huge lump of plastic!
@andybrown9143 I have tons of models on sprues. I've got a bit of a backlog from 20 years of collecting 🤪. I should have enough sprues for a little while
Dont think getting enough sprues is a problem. Know a guy who got covid and needed to stay at home. He asked around and within a day 10+ kg of sprues had been delivered outside his door (:
@@andersand6576 If you want to craft a Mordor battle scene you need 20kg+ lol
@@andybrown9143 Ask your local club and you might be surprised about the amount of sprues around (:
@@andersand6576 It's a general rule of nature that no matter how much you have you always need a bit more lol
When assembling them into a structure can you just use plastic glue again to glue them together.
A time-lapse of some completed dudes melting in the liquid would look great! 🤣
That would be cool! 🤣, I'll see if I have a model to sacrifice 🫠
How do you make the goo ?
@MarkNurton I made a video on this which can be found here th-cam.com/video/tv_sddfpEes/w-d-xo.html
Reminded of the time as a kid I had silly putty. And it got dirty and I tried to wash it off.
BIG MISTAKE! silly putty plus water it becomes the stickiest substance known to man. Have fun getting it off your hands.
Love it 🤙
plaster comes in various grades, some is very hard, it would be easier to use the hard plasters and cheaper.
@@BrandonMichaels-we9vn I have so many sprues from models I've made 😀, so recycling them seemed like a good idea 💡 definitely plasters a good alternative 👍
"I'm super excited about this!" he says while showing a jar that looks suspiciously like urine.
@@crapparc 👍😀🤪
Ingenuous
I taught it would have been much more all bubbly
Serious loss of detail in certain places and a lot of airbubbles, works ok for things that are supposed to look a bit ruined
@Bolton19 thanks for your comment. I like the 'weathered' effect, so will be making ruins really 👍
Thanks 👍
@calvanoni5443 very welcome 🫡
It would be easier if you told us what kind of liquid you used to make the goo lol
Thank you for the comment. Check out my other video on how to make sprue goo 😀
th-cam.com/video/tv_sddfpEes/w-d-xo.html
Those little air bubbles are pretty ignorable considering they were made from what model makers intend for you to throw away! Make sure to keep the bits of flashing and any parts that don't look good enough, they can go straight back in the sprue goo jar.
Exactly right. All the flash and failed pieces can just be recycled 🤙🫠
I meltted my friends Orc army with a couple of lighters. He made a big plastic turd with it. The Emperor ejects.
🤣
Looks at 20 years of sprues.... sitting there hummmmmmm
Definitely the case 😀. Melt it all 😁
That's "Flat" panels!
What about ??? Squigs !?
@@barryloughran3632 I've got some Orks to paint up who definitely need squigs. Great suggestion 🤙🫡
hey man, idk if u noticed but you keep hitting your mic making a really jarring popping noise every few seconds
@bimpus69 thanks for pointing that out. My mic setup isn't great. I'll work on it 🫡
It looks like u put the extra parts in there. Buts bins matter too man
You should get a respirator.
I'm in a well ventilated room. But I hear you 👍
I would much rather use cheap resin instead of sprue but thats just me
Each to there own 😉. Just have fun with it 😄
Hot diggity damn!! Also just reusing the waste and making it usable it such a win!! wtg man!!
@@vectorshaman338 definitely a win 🤙
sure bro, they use high pressure injection machines costing millions, but you can do the same at home !
Why not? The expensive machinery just automates the process and pumps out thousands of copies a day. You can make a few coies a day by yourself with a bit of skill and some patience. As you can see the results can be comparable to store bought items, the only real problems are gettting rid of air bubbles and keeing the anels flat when drying, it's not rocket science you know.
harsh chemicals and asthma educing smelly if you don't have the right environment to duplicate this method safely. great use of a product that would end up in the bin though!
I'm a little disappointed because I threw away all my sprues.
Oh, rubbish. It might be an excuse to buy more models.. 🤔 🫡🤪
BOYCOTT GREENSTUFF WORLD TERRIBLE COMPANY
but wow those turned out great
Thanks very much for your comment. Tbh I don't know much about GSW
Could you tell us, why it is a terrible company in your opinion? I'm just curious, no hard feelings.
Looks terrible... Resin or plaster isn't expensive and they're the materials ideal for moulds. Melted sprue, greenstuff, etc just don't work.
All views welcome 😀. I like it, and the acetone costs only £9 for 1 litre. The sprues were just going to be thrown out. For me, I'm happy with the outcome but resin is a good idea 👍🫡
Just looked up the price of resin and not that cheap. Plus I like the idea of reusing stuff you've already got (even the acetone if you can steal you're wifes). I'd say they look ok for a first attempt and will get better with improved rolling technique. Or go spend ten grand on some gamesworkshop castle mega model.
@@BitsBoxWorld Yeah your acetone should last forever? or until it evaporates. Resin is about £20 a litre which would be an ongoing cost. If you wanted to do any serious building with resin I could imagine it heading to a few £100 worth of resin a year compared to next to nothing for sprue goo.
In fact the prICE to BEAR would be CRIMINAL.
Resin is quite expensive in the UK, but I suppose you could do a thin fill of the moulds with resin first to grab the detail, let the resin dry and then pack out the bulk of the mould with the sprue glue.
Let’s see some more examples of sprue gloo in moulds!
I've ordered some more molds. When they arrive I'll do some more videos with sprue goo 🫡