Hobby Cheating 85 - How to Paint Marble
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through a fast, fun and different way to paint marble. It's a little messy and chaotic, but it can produce a beautiful organic marble effect. Hope you enjoy.
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Vince's RPG Podcast: itunes.apple.c...
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Vince: It's almost impossible to screw up
Me: hold my beer
Well, I did say almost... ;)
i guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to log back into an instagram account??
I somehow forgot my account password. I love any tricks you can offer me.
@Darian Brandon Instablaster =)
Used to watch Bob Ross to help me fall asleep . Now Vince has the job.
Oh man. I did too. Used to love to nap on the couch to Bob Ross
Hands down the greatest tutorial on painting marble on the entire interwebs. I will be taking advantage of this for my harlequin bases.
Awesome - happy to help as always. :)
You have convinced me to give my chapel floor another chance. It has been sitting on a shelf for over a year since I made an abomination out of the floor.
Thanks a million!
Awesome, it's a tricky technique, but super fun. :)
Me: phantasize about an entire adepta sororitas army with marble bases
My brain: don’t you dare.....
Seems like a good idea to me, what could go wrong? ;)
I tried marble with glazes on one of my first models, long before I knew how glazes actually worked, and it went so poorly, I've never really tried it again. I have a feeling this might be my next D&D campaign's base design.
Thank you Vince!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Fantastic job! In the early stages I was really wondering how you were going to get it to look like marble and it really did work. You even worked through a mistake!
Thank you! Cheers!
Wonderful stuff Vince. I always enjoy how you show the different levels and steps people can take a technique to, depending on what they need - always very informative - thanks for sharing
Thank you, I try for just that. Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching and commenting.
Give it time people ..... Trust the process. I paint epic 40k and I've tried everything from sponging to baby wipes and it just didn't seem to cut it on such small a scale.
I did a black and white rather than a brown pallet of paint and at first I'm like seriously wtf you hack ..... my sincere apologies.... I've never have been a model painter or a painter in general until lock down ..... that being said I've always been artistic just life got in the way until it basically stopped I digress the results were just what I was looking for perfect and customised to how I wanted them. Appreciate your videos and how you went into depth and even explained what the water was doing and helping me understand 👍
Just a little note: many stores doesn´t have Vallejo Cement Grey under that name, they have it under US Light Grey
Good note, i didn't realize that.
It was like film developing ; slowly the elements came to the fore . . . Details emurged,
From the depths . . . Expressing themselves out
Of the ethereal into solidity
And focus 😌
Thanks much for sharing this!! I have a few models coming up that feature marble heavily (Roboute Gulliman and the Forge World Leman Russ). Love the way this technique comes out....looks like actual stone.
This looks fun! I do Pathfinder/D&D games, so I'm tempted to buy some 1" acrylic squares and do them all up in this marble style for an ancient throne room/palace for the players to fight through...
That sounds awesome. Love the idea.
Love this pure brush technique!!! Thank you for making this vid
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Random fact - there is red marble. In fact I once went to a quarry in Germany as part of a geology trip and the marble was a random mixture of deep red, pink and white.... turns out it was Hitler's favourite and he wanted to use it for a load of buildings... so perhaps just use it for Chaos Marines...?
Well there you go, that is random, but good to know that color exists.
This is fantastic. Different technique than I have seen.
Thank you, this was a fun one, I imported the technique from a much large painting technique used to do countertops. :)
Vince Venturella yeah my first attempt failed. Time to try again.
wow, I think that last dry brushing you did was like magic! Right after the "sitching"?? I didnt like the spottiness, then after you brushed over it was like, boom marble. Michelangelo! Thanks
Yes! Thank you!
Wonderfull technique work verry well. Just a friendly additionel tip, if you try this technique on a miniature instead of a flat surface, as the paint remains very liquid it tends to sink in the hollows. To reduce the problem work a little longer with the paper towel and let your figurine dry horizontally
Excellent tips for sure.
Well played sir,well played . . .
Wow, this is amazing! Was just trying to figure out how i was going to paint marble bases, and BAM! An awesome process/workflow. Love it!!!
Thank you sir, happy to help as always. One thing I will say from feedback I have gotten from others is that the Vallejo Air paints do seem to be quite essential to the process (or at least thin paints like them) as some folks tried it with other standard paints and had divergent results. Just a word of warning, but this is such a fun technique. :)
@@VinceVenturella So i couldn't do this with Scale75 versions of the colors?
@@geteavnroc2250 I am not going to say no, because I haven't tried it (it might work great), I will say the gel-medium as a base might have a different effect, so you might need to experiment a little.
Being the cheapskate I am, I'm constantly thinking how to make this with the stuff I already have. That is to say, without the retardant. I have a handful of different sizes and length bristles (equating to softness) makeup brushes, I'm thinking maybe a similar effect could be done with a sloppy drybrushing.
Overbrushing, I think Goobertown's Brent called it, where you don't actually remove enough paint so you get that streaking that would be bad for drybrushing.
If you use a stippling motion, stabbing the base and then dragging it a distance to create streaks from the blotch forward. Do this with a variety of whites and browns, always to the same direction.
Then you do a heavy glaze of your midtone over it to bring it all together. Repeat with the stiple/drag and heavy glaze until there's interesting variations.
Then go in with the tones and washes to make the cracks, glaze to smooth out the ends, repeating back and forth with a brown glaze and the midtone glaze until you get the brown veins and the sharper cracks on top.
Probably would take a lot longer, having to wait until the layers dry every time, but I think you could probably get close.
Sure, it might not be the exact same effect, but it would be cool as well.
Dude this is not cheating, thats just skill
Well thank you, much apprecaited. :)
Was looking forwards to this video after seeing your Sigmar diorama and, as always, you do not disappoint! Great tutorial sir!
Thank you sir, much appreciated and glad I was able to live up to the expectations :)
Vince, you did a fantastic job here.. the results were great, the explanation was great... well done sir.
Thank you sir, much appreciated. Hope it inspires and/or helps.
Vince, are you a teacher by trade? sure seems like it based upon your open approach to teaching this stuff.
Nope, but thank you, that's a great compliment.
You are the Bob Ross of miniature painting!
Thank you, that's quite a compliment and probably not deserved, but deeply appreciated.
Brilliant timing. I`m starting to paint a base for hobby challenge. I`ll use it to make white-red checkerboard tile pattern :)
Sounds like fun, look forward to seeing the results.
Great tutorial, at least with marble there are a heap of varieties and reference photos for inspiration. Will use this on some of the Massive Darkness 2 minis in the future.
Awesome, always happy to help, this is a tricky technique, but it's really fun.
Great video as usual. How would you go about doing a cracked marble surface? Use a base of crackle paint, let it dry, use this method to paint the marble on, then maybe a shade to pick out the cracks and a gloss coat to add that smooth shine that you may have lost from the texture paint?
I would need to see an example of what you are aiming at. Heavy textures make this very difficult and we don't tend to see rough marble when we encounter it in the world. Do you have a reference image of what you are aiming at?
Sorry I probably wasn't super clear! Something like this cdn.pixabay.com/photo/2015/07/20/22/08/marble-853399_960_720.jpg like marble floor that has been smashed by some kind of explosion or giant monster or whatever
Ok that link didn't work... pixabay.com/p-853399/?no_redirect
Well, my thought there is that in that photo, the marble is still very smooth exempting the cracks. If you were going for something truly in tiny rubble, it's going to be hard to capture it's marble, it will just look like stone. I would stay away from crackle paint, as I am not sure how that is going to marry up. That tends to make the ground look and feel flaky, where as marble needs to feel "heavy" and solid. So I would just break up the stone pieces (much like in your photo) and then paint each individually.
what about using modeling clay / plaster in a thin layer, paint it, seal it and hold together with sticky tape, and then break it into pieces however you want?
Looks great. what I have noticed with marble around here is that it has pretty healthy white veins. I have a figure that requires this and I think I will give it a whirl. Great video! Thanks for sharing...
Glad you found it helpful as always. Thanks for watching and commenting :)
Great stuff. Simple, but super effective!
Happy to help as always. :)
Just the video I needed. Thanks kindly Vince.
Excellent, happy to help as always.
I have so many ideas for this
Excellent, glad you find it helpful as always!
awesome, can't wait to try this on the base of my 3 battle brother titus models that came this morning, ha my luck with the hero series lol
Hope you enjoy it! :)
Damn, that looks cool
Thank you, glad it was helpful. :)
Cant wait to try it!!
Hope you like it!
Glad I found your channel, very nice tutorial, thank you! :)
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Awesome marble effect. Gonna try it on my Lord of hellas Greek god's bases. Thanks!
Excellent, happy to assist.
Dang cool method! Thx will try this out on the boards I’m working on..
It's great for those large flat surfaces. Just make sure you have a very light touch with the brush when blending and an extremely soft brush (something like a make-up brush works very well).
Vince Venturella thx...I actually bought a soft rounded eye makeup brush a while ago and I use it as a very soft dry brush, it just never occurred to me to use it on wet paint to blend/push back
Hey Vince at 1:30 you said that you mixed 2:1 retarder medium and cement grey. Am I understanding correctly that it's 2 parts retarder, 1 part paint? Or is it the other way around (2 parts paint, 1 part retarder medium)?
Awesome guide! Quick question - if I want to do this with a black marble, would you start with solid black and then add in greys and whites as you did with the strong tone and agrax?
Yep I think that would work, my advice would be to use the same Model color paint (but in black) I have had some feedback from other people that doing this with other paints is tricky, but apparently the model color is thinned exactly right. :)
Great video. Have you ever tried this technique on something that isn’t a flat base, like a pillar? I guess it would be harder if there’s lots of ridges and crevices
I have, it's very hard to do, it really needs a flat surface.
You are genius Mister!
Thank you sir, very much appreciated and glad it was helpful.
Would you say this technique eorks for the new Domain of Sigmar scenery?
Absolutely, this is great for that stuff as it's largely big flats. You would want to go back after and redefine the cracks between stones, but beyond that, absolutely.
the best so far ive seen
Thank you, glad to help as always. :)
I really want to paint some marbled armour, buy damn it looks close to impossible to achieve such a look on a model like custodes or a similar size. Still hoping to make some marble marines though, I'll find the technique some day
Yeah, this would be very difficult on a model. That being said, you may want to look at either the sponging method (which I have an earlier video on) or the dryer sheet method. Both can be great for models and are really easy to execute.
Excellent tutorial thanks, great effect :)
Thank you sir, happy to help as always.
A very good tutorial. Thanks!
Thank you sir, much appreciated.
very convincing effect. nice work. i'm curious how this would work with green washes and some copper speckles.
Not sure, I mean I am sure you could use lots of 3 color combinations as long as you had the right contrast and shades. The copper speckles is interesting for sure, I hadn't considered that, I will have to give it a try at some point.
Great tutorial and effect. Thank you very much, Sir!
The drying retarder is only mixed into the mid tone, right?
In this case yes, which means you have to watch the drying time on your dark tone very carefully. If you were trying a larger space, you would probably want a little retarder and water in your dark tone as well, but a very small amount. It's sort of a feel it out thing and because this is a very "random" painting process, you often just have to go with it and see what happens.
Seems like a really good technique! How well suited is it for more uneven surfaces, or objects like stairs? In any case, thank you for the video! It was really useful!
It's best on a flat surface, but can work pretty well on stairs. If the surface itself is uneven, then this doesn't really work.
Alright, thank you! I'll be trying this technique on the base of the forgeworld primarch series Horus. I'll let you know how it works out!
in the ending photo the pillars have the same look, was it the same technique because they look pretty awesome also?
Yep, same technique, it's a little rougher on an uneven surface, but it's the same thing, you just have to be more careful with your thin lines.
Great, will be trying this definitely. Thanks for the instant reply!
Excellent tutorial Vince! I've been going through most of You hobby cheating videos over the last couple of weeks. Your channel was excactly what I needed to start painting again after Coronadepression made me take a break. Do You host the pictures from the tutorials somewhere? I'd love to seed some of the end results in better quality, especially this one.
They are all on my twitter and instagram (in the desctiption), but I am not sure if I have this up as it was quite a while ago.
How would you do this on any miniatures themselves?
And what colours would you use for a black/jade marble?
Honestly, this technique is really for flat surfaces, it won't work great on minis with detail. FOr black jade, basically those and white, maybe a dark green.
Hey Vince, method looks good but I wonder if you'd do anything different for painting a white or blue-gray marble i.e., Italian/Carrara marble?
Change the colors, but basically the same technique
How would you add in some gold/jade in the veins? Similar? Or would you leave it sharper?
Basically the same yes, just some thin lines.
Damn. Just a day late for a mini I was thinking of making marble but just went stone texture instead!
Well, at least you'll have it for next time ;)
Great tutorial!
Thank you sir, much appreciated.
Absolutely stellar tutorial! Thank you so much.
Do you think this would work for a blue marble effect too? I'm trying to recreate the shoulders from the box art of the GW Necron Overlord with Warscythe model.
It will be tough to use this on a small surface for something like a shoulder pad, though you can certainly switch the colors. I do have another video on marble here that might be better suited for smaller surfaces - th-cam.com/video/rS_pp-PrmrE/w-d-xo.html
ALso, you can check out Darren Latham's recent posts on Instagram he is actually doing a marble tutorial on exactly the part you are talking about. He is literally doing that marble on the armor plates on Necrons. So you could steal his exact technique.
@@VinceVenturella yeah tried your method over and over again last night and couldn't get it to work. The issue is that the drying times vary far too much so you'll have one bit starting to dry and is perfect for brushing to this effect and another that will just smush together 😅. Ends up being too inconsistent.
I have had a look at Daz's method, it doesn't seem to be the same effect (?) as used on the box art but I will give it a go anyway and see how it turns out. Thanks for the help anyway Vince, it's still a great video!
Dude that is magic thanks for this vid
Thank you, glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting :)
is there any difference in technique when working on an uneven surface(ex statue)
Yes, this can be a little more difficult if something is heavily textured. Marble is generally quite smooth, but something like a statue isn't too much a problem, you just want to break it down and do sections you can work, so you don't get anything drying incorrectly. (So like, do the torso, then the arms, then the legs, etc.) that way you can better control the dry time and make corrections. Now if you have really, really rough textures and cracks, it's just going to be hard to make it read as marble, as marble just doesn't tend to have that rough texture when we see it in the world.
Thank you
Thank you and happy to help as always. :)
Absolute Genius
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Very nice, but what its the color used
The specific color isn't too important, but in this case, I used some Cement grey as the base color.
I am deffinetly Going to base an Inquisition Retinue with this effect. I was wondering how would you do a Black marble effect, since it's mostly just white on black I a not sure how to go about doing this effect that relies on many tones.
I I would say the same thing, but with some grey and thin white lines, but it's tougher for sure.
Sadly, when I use the big dry brush very gently, I still loose all my lines
It's a really tough technique, you could try a softer drybrush or let the paint sit slightly longer, it's really easy for this to go wrong admittedly.
Would this work in reverse from black to white?
The white probably wouldn't blend as well into the black, but it could. I have never tried it in that way, but it would be an interesting experiment.
tried this today, it didn't go well, after i drybrushed each step it mixed way to much, the ores/veins got almost fully mixed with the wet base, for drybrushing i used an old, broad cosmetic brush, so it should be more than soft enough, any tipps for me?
The key is letting everything sit for just long enough, I will also say the paint dilution matters, the model air paints turned out to be the perfect dilution, so if you are trying to replicate with other paints, you need to hit that thinness.
@@VinceVenturella
i bought the same paints you used in this tutorial but yeah i was to impatient and figured afterwards it should be better to wait, so the paint gets a little time to sit.
thank you very much for your fast answer and everything you do on your channel.
I had two problems. After applying the first layer, when I added lines, instead of leaving paint behind, it was just moving the paint from step 1. i had to use excess paint just to get it to stick. Then when doing the drybrushing everything just blended in completely :/
So here are my two pieces of advice. First, make sure you have a good solid line laid down into the original color. Second, you need a VERY soft brush and a VERY light touch. This isn't like normal drybrushing. My advice is to get a make-up brush (they are incredibly soft) and have a super-light touch with your dry brush.
Vince Venturella I'll try the makeup brush. Is it 2 parts retarder to paint for the first step?
When I was trying to add the initial lines, instead of the paint coming off the brush, it was just moving the first later around. Maybe I need to thin my other paints too
Correct, you want the line paint to flow really well also. Something like a small bit of flow-aid can help. As to the retarder medium, it's not an exact ratio, it's more about making sure it doesn't dry, so it's very dependent on the individual paint. My advice is play with it and see what works, but 2 or 3 to 1 is a good start.
Hello Vince I have a cuestión....can u wrote me the link where the comparation paints are listed...cause I use GW brand and I need to know what are the paints that I need to achieve this awesome effect...thanks
Not sure they are all on here, but the link is below. The key is mid-tone brown, darker brown, and a near white. - www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart
I think i am going to try this effect on a Tomb Kings warsphinx, any tips?
It's going to be really tough on a non-flat surface like that. I have another video on stippled marble, that is what I used for my warsphinx (in fact, it's what I use in the video). I can't say it won't work, but I can say it will be challenging across all those angles.
This is an amazing tutorial! I just saw it today and I already bought those paints and tried it. But I have a question if you don't mind. I never work with retarder and I'm wondering how much do you use with the cement grey. I mixed two retarder drop in four cement drops and I think that it's not enough. When I painted the sinai lines, the brush rip the cement coat. And when I tried to smooth the lines, averything becomed a mess xD
Thank you for your help and your amazing video.
The short answer is a lot more retardent medium. You need to at least invert your ratio (4 to 2 or 1, medium to paint), you need it to stay workable for a fair amount of time. The other key is a very light touch with your brush as you are smoothing, you are better making small moves and blends over lots of strokes. Hope that helps.
Thank you. I will try it tomorrow again
The issue was that you just said in the video mix retarder in a 2-1 ratio, but you didn't say whether retarder was the 2 parts or paint was the 2 parts, so i was also unsure about it.
Doh! Totally fair, sorry about that, I need to make sure I am very clear about that sort of thing. My apologies. I did manage to work with Carlos to get it all straightened out, always happy to help.
OKay, i have attempted this over 10 time nows and have tried everything i can think of. but everysingle time when i come to the drybrushing part it just mixes everything together. and I bought an extra extra soft brush. I am at a complete loss.
So I have had a few others say this as well, it's tough to diagnose, but here are some thoughts that have helped others.
1) Lighter touch, You need to barely be touching the paint.
2) Thicker base layer - more paint on so you are not pulling everything across.
3) Allow the base to dry for a few more minutes. If everything sets just a little more, you might see less mixing. Let the base set, then do the first lines.
4) I was using Game Air paints for this (and always have with this technique) - so it could be that some other paints don't perform the same. This may be one of those cases where you have to use the same paints. I am nto sure, as I have only used these.
Hope that helps. Reach out if you encounter more challenges.
wouldnt more base paint mean there is more paint to mix?
I have tried the lightest touch possible but as soon as the bristle touch the paint its mush.
Could you perhaps do an updated tutorial where you go over all of the paints mixed and consistency. We do not see any paints mixed in this video. and that could also be where my problem is.
I have tried flow aide to thin the line paints considerably, I have tried GW air paints. Still zero luck.
I guess i will have to buy some game air paints and hope that works, but it still doesnt help to not know how to mix the paints.
Maybe a tutorial with black marble and white lines?
I just noticed you are using AIr paints. They are already increadibly thin, does that make a difference compared to using GW? I am still failing with gw after 5 attempts. I am trying to do black marble with greys and whites in it
It does make a difference, you may have to thin some as well in addition to the retarder. I haven't tried this with anything except air paints and I didn't think of the difference that might have made.
ok, i bought extra soft makeup brush and i thinned the paints considerably...as soon as i try the first trick they ppaints just mix together on the object instead of doing what you are doing. I have no idea what i am doing wrong
"If you don't want to eat paint then don't eat paint" Well what's the fun in that?
That's what I'm saying. :)
has anyone told you that you sound like Steve Buscemi?
Many times. :)
What primer are you using for this?
Just my standard Vallejo Surface Primer (German Panzer Black-Grey)
Yeah I thought you said something like that. You prefer that over straight up black?
Is that German Panzer Grey (74.603) or am I not finding Black-Grey?
@@travisellis9230 Yep, that's it.
Give it time people ..... Trust the process. I paint epic 40k and I've tried everything from sponging to baby wipes and it just didn't seem to cut it on such small a scale.
I did a black and white rather than a brown pallet of paint and at first I'm like seriously wtf you hack ..... my sincere apologies.... I've never have been a model painter or a painter in general until lock down ..... that being said I've always been artistic just life got in the way until it basically stopped I digress the results were just what I was looking for perfect and customised to how I wanted them. Appreciate your videos and how you went into depth and even explained what the water was doing and helping me understand 👍
Awesome, glad I was able to help. :)