ROUTER SKILL- Make a tapered-sliding-dovetail THE EASY WAY!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
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Neat edge guide Stumpy. I will make make one for tapered DT joints as soon as I find my piano hinge that I put away for safe keeping.
Here's a suggestion that will allow you to use a really narrow shim should you choose. When doing the shelves on my router table, I'll double-stick tape a scab of 1/4-inch MDF the same size as the router fence and then slowly slide the fence into position while the router is running until just enough bit protrudes from the surface of the MDF. No notch! Even better, the MDF acts as a zero clearance throat so no fuzzies on the exposed surface of the shelf. And, if the MDF is a little long, it can be reused a number of times by positioning at a different location when reused. Flipping it gives a fresh surface.
Before I found this video, I cut 3 shelves for a bookcase that are tapered sliding dovetail. The wood is red oak. The dovetail is blind. I read Tage Frid. I used 9° router for the dado like you. For the shelf I used a 3/4" shoulder plane guided by 80° template with a shallow saw channel. You are correct. It is a great joint. Originally, I planned a dado. Tage Frid in his book said, "No.". Your video has showed more simple methods. Thanks.
This is EXACTLY what I have been looking for James ,I cant thank you enough .
Very cool. I just finished a bunch of drawers assembled with 10" long sliding dovetails. I had a tight fit, but was damn near impossible to fit once the glue got in there. This would have saved a lot of time and been way easier.
Two things I should have mentioned: 1. Use a dovetail bit that is at least 1/16" narrower (at it's widest point) than the thickness of the material that you will cut on the router table. I use a 5/8" bit for 3/4" material. 2. tape the shim to the back edge of the panel. It will look better if the taper it at it's widest point on the back rather than the front where you will see it more clearly.
Could you check out my question I just posted? I'm going to be trying this soon I think. Thanks!
I don't see your question. Please send it to me via the "contact" link on our website. www.stumpynubs.com/contact-stumpy.html
THANKS! This is a tip I have been looking for. Sliding dovetails are such a cool piece of joinery, and yet getting them to slide ain't been easy!
The simplicity of this technique is amazing
Great content as usual! However, of late, I have been getting away from dovetails because of the advances made over the years in wood glues. In the above example, I would opt for a snug fitting spline secured with Titebond II or III. If this joint is stressed to failure, my experience is that he surrounding wood, not the glue joint will fail. For the same reason, I put cabinet drawers together using box joints. After dialing in my homemade box joint router jig I can quickly produce attractive joints that to me are as esthetically pleasing as dovetails. Some folks, woodworkers in particular, might argue the esthetics point, but they will have to concede that box joints are at least as strong as dovetails when done with modern wood glues. I like the looks of box joints done with 3/8" to 1/2" fingers. I get more positive workmanship comments from non-woodworking friends with a well executed box joint that I do from equally well done dovetails. To each his own!
Great idea. Love the flip up edge guide also. Both are genius! Thanks for the video.
That is a superb video and thank you for the additional information below. I have cut quite a lot of joints over the years including secret mitre dovetails but the tapered sliding dovetail is not one. this would be even better would it not were the dovetail stopped short of the carcase face? The straight edge is an absolute peach. A hidden gem. Please do share this in its own video. I have used straight edges for years and simply measured the offset and in the past mad eone with a witness board which wears away in time and only supports half the router base but this is better than either: provided there is no play in the piano hinge. Thank you.
You are presenting really great tips. I can't wait to get my hands on your next book.
I'm sure one will find its way over to you :)
Great tip. I also love you flip up edge guide. Thanks for sharing.
As always, another great video worthy of my most valuable resource, my time. Thank you James.
Stumpy. Advanced Router Techniques now out of print. Any suggestions to locate the same?
Excellent tip. I just would suggest that when you position the pivot end clamp near the end making the pivot point not effect the cut.
Just discovered and subscribed. Your videos are very well done. Clean, efficient, and effective.
Great tip. Thank you. Robert from Germany.
One of your best videos, thank you so much.
Thank you. This worked great
Nice explanation and jig. Great job
very good. I like that technique
Thank you James. As always, your tutorials are brilliant and practically delivered. I plan to use a sliding dovetail on a violin stand that I am attempting for the first time. The base of the vertical piece is approx. 1" x 6" (cherry) and I would like to slide fit that into the 12" x 13" x 1" base platform (bubinga) from the back end of the base forward untill the back edge of the vertical piece is flush with the back end of the base. So, I have heavy stock with a design that could be top heavy, hence the need for strong joinery with the approx 6" of contact the two elements will have. Your idea seems perfect for my application. Do you agree?
Can't wait 😊 till "late 2017". I want it now!
This is great! Simple and to the point. Most other videos on sliding dovetails use hand tools, and while I enjoy watching that kind of work, I'm generally less successful that way... I'll continue practicing, but in the meantime, when I need to actually get something done (raised bed for my wife) it's nice to know that methods like yours are simple - especially if I'm not doing anything tapered - I shouldn't need the taper for a raised garden, right? 1x boards into 2x2 posts?
Can you use a sliding dovetail on plywood as well?
Thank You a lot for the video! I watched it about 10 times.. how would you do it on 5 feet long beam that should slide under the table top ?
I have the same MasterForce Router from Menards!!
Great tip!
Guess you could always cut a specific B.S. mdf fence with only an opening for the bit but continous above it so the shim dont fall in. When you did this, you only tapered 1 side, correct ? I know you said only move 1 end but you also only taper 1 wall of the dovetail socket.
I'm using a sliding dovetail soon more as a decorative accent instead of a dado. It'll be used to attach a shelf into the face of a slab of wood that will be mounted onto a wall. The slab is a coat rack, and the shelf, well, it's a shelf. I want the dovetail to be nicely visible on either end, so it won't be blind. will this tapered technique work for me?
The coat rack will be 36 inches long. Thanks in advance.
Jim
I've spent the morning trying to get a clean dovetail on the baltic birch plywood I want to use, but tearout is really bad. I've tried taping and prescoring, still get nasty tearout. More tearout with my new 2 fluted bit than with my older single fluted bit, but both bits produce clean cuts in pine test boards. Any suggestions? In your video you didn't seem to take any special steps, did I miss something?
Amazing tutorial, this is golden, thank you very much!
But, for the love of gosh, please switch to SI, people.
thank you very much!
Got a question? I don't have a router table just a router how do I proceed to do the 2nd step? By the way brilliant tutorial!!!
On smaller sliding dovetails (let's say
Hey man, this is the bomb!
This really is great joint and I'm surprised I don't see it used more often. But then again I guess I'm just as guilty as the next guy :-)
My router fence is shorter than the length of wood. So the shim stock would eventually be pushed past the end. I assume this would be a problem making a tapered sliding dovetail. I realize I am very late to this video. Do you have any thoughts on this situation? My fence is at most 18 inches past the bit and the wood piece is 35 inches. Or is there a way to make a long non-tapered sliding dovetail be made so you can put this together? Does just making it looser help? I plan on gluing this dovetail.
Stick a piece of MDF on your fence to make it longer.
@@StumpyNubs Thanks. I have to chuckle that I could not see that as an option. There are not many YT videos on sliding tapered dovetail made with routers. Thanks for making these videos.
Great info as always !
I want to do this to rafters at ridge but the old hardwood I'm using is too long and heavy to use a table , do you have any suggestions on how to do it on sawhorses with router ?
I am unclear as to whether the taper in the shelf sides is taken from the bottom of the dovetail/dado or from the top or if it matters...worried about visible gaps at the sliding dovetail.
James,thanks one less thing to swear at in the workshop!
One important point also: This *will not work* if your sliding dovetail is longer than either side of your router table fence. Each side of your fence MUST be AT LEAST as long as the dovetail.
You can clamp on a sacrificial fence face of any length to extend your fence.
Brilliant
You mentioned using a 1/16” shim. Is there a ratio of shim thickness to dovetail joint length? Or as long as everything is cut the same, will it work out? Thanks for sharing.
very cool james!👍👍
Why not use the cut dovetail slot as a gauge just a thought like your videos love from England
That would work on small parts. But this technique is often used on large casework where it would be difficult to use the cut part for the gauge.
Again...You da man!
I have got to get a router!
Yes you do...they are awesome!!!
Brandon White I only have 5... thinking about getting 1 more lol.
nice 👍🏻 👍🏻👍🏻
Does the technique work if your work piece is longer then your router fence?
Your router fence can be as long as you like. Just clamp a straight board to it to make it longer.
@@StumpyNubs Thanks. I will make the fence longer and see if it fixes my issues
Does the shim you use taper at all or is it a uniform 1/16” thick the entire length? I ask because-and maybe I’m overthinking this-wouldn’t a uniform shim create a kind of “step” on the piece with the tail instead of a smooth taper?
The shim rides on the fence, not the bit. So as long as the length of the piece can be fully cut without the shim passing the end of the fence, there will be no drop in the taper. I how I'm exposing that right. Watch the video again at 3:49.
Very nice, thank you :-)
I like it much more when you come across as a serious woodworker instead of a wannabe comedian. Very good.
Thanks for the insult wrapped up inside a compliment.
Oh my wow, that's some hand tool fetish you have there nice lol.
How do you make slotsin a post for three legged table?
Genius!! I Love You, Man! Have a cold one, on me.
does is matter which side you taper? say you did this to a shelf into a panel, how do you know the shelf is still square to the front edge of the cabinet? wouldn't it tip your shelf to lean forward or backward. just curious as to what part I'm missing.
I am not sure I understand what you are saying. The joint comes out nice and square as long as you support the panel as you cut so that it's perpendicular tot he router table.
Stumpy Nubs hmmm let's try this, say you want your shelf 12" down from the top of the panel, by tapering the slot by 1/16" the Dado is not parallel to the top of the panel any more. Is this auto corrected by tapering the tail on the shelf? sorry if I didn't ask well enough the first time.
You are creating a taper in the slot that cancels out the taper in the shelf. It's sort of like laying two identical wedges on each other, facing in opposite directions. They cancel each other out.
Gotcha! The two wedges explanation makes perfect sense!!! Thanks for helping me understand that.
So you taper the slot fron to back and the shelf from back to front to cancel each other - if i understand the wedge analogu correctly. This is a very useful video. Now show us how to do a blind one.....please
I've got to figure out how to do this on the end of a 2m x30mm thick x670mm deep piece of pine 🤦🏻♂️
doh! shim on the panel, I get it now lol.
How is a sliding dovetail stronger than a dato? I understand it seems that way because you get that immediate stiffness even before the glue dries. But rationally speaking, if glue stronger than wood (and it undoubtedly is), and the wood is at its weakest running along the grain (as in splitting the wood), then doesn't it follow that a sliding dovetail would be able to split along the short length of grain, whereas a dado would have to overcome the tensile pull of the integrally connected wood grain to do the same. When adding to this the fact that the continuous wood fiber is narrower with a sliding dovetail, one has to conclude the sliding dovetail is measurably weaker in all directions. Still, for what it's worth, if for whatever reason you have to do a sliding dovetail, I like your technique.
You're living in the world of theory. Go create the two joints and test them. You'll see.
@@StumpyNubs I was hoping that you or someone else had done that, that's why I asked. Can I now infer from your response that you have tested them. Because I neither want to waste the material nor the time duplicating work that you've already done, what would be the sense of that. If you tell me that you have tested with a type II adhesive, then I will assume that there's something that I'm missing. On a slightly separate note, I've been in construction for 34 years, built my share of doors, cabnets, shelving, etc. It seems to me that everything, every discipline, that starts with theory ends with a better finished product. I would contrast this with those contractors that start out doing crappy work because they don't research their trade, only to gain in skill in time to the great misfortune of their early customers. Kind of ironic, because it's that desire to do research about welding that brought me to TH-cam in the first place. And now TH-camr is telling me to do my own experiments. LOL, you're still awesome to me man, but you have to admit, that's funny.
any recommendations on decent quality router bits for a new woodworker?
Whiteside: amzn.to/2j90mWD They are a family owned and operated, small business that make top quality bits. A lot of professional woodworkers swear by them!
Thank you sir!
Don't forget, you can sharpen good quality bits so they last a looooooong time. Here's a video on that- th-cam.com/video/o4AtrNXR5Iw/w-d-xo.html
interesting. where such a connection plan to use?
Fixed shelves in a bookcase, for example
The best video I've seen from you ever. Glad you did away with the lame comedy. Well done. I'll subscribe.
You have a really nice shop. But Underhill's method is WAY simpler.
nize😄
It's a pity you own that amazing "museum" of good tools behind you and use only electric tools to make a dovetail. Old school is also fun!
Who says I "only use electric tools to make a dovetail?" You watched one video about one technique. We have 600 other videos...
@@StumpyNubs dude electric tools all the way for first passes at least, first of all. Keeps everything else sharp too.