I'm so tired of those. Just the abundant use of epoxy really. Like obviously do what you wanna do, I'm just voicing my personal opinion on them. I have to put that disclaimer cause we all know how "they" can be lmfao
@connorhart7597 Everyone's taste is their own, and I'm glad people are making things with their hands. That being said: river tables are the CrossFit of fine woodworking and I want the style to die a quick, complete death.
I am a beginner to woodwork, the main test I have with this bundle th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt is that I think that its hard to settle on a choice of the plan and outline to use as there are a large portion of them there. Nonetheless, I like the simple stride to step directions laid out there.
As someone who lives in a weird hybrid land where we use a mix of metric and imperial measurements, I really appreciate you using both systems in your videos, but they do highlight how weird my brain is with measurements. I've been making a conscious effort to train myself more on metric - I've stopped weighing myself in stones and use kg instead, and as my kids have grown, I've only ever used cm to check their heights. But, a few years back, I worked in a shop that did packing and shipping and when reshaping cardboard boxes (to fit pictures frames etc) I tended to use inches for the simple reason that "The numbers are smaller so the arithmetic is easier" and this has bled into some aspects of my woodworking, but not others. Half-inch plywood is easier to visualise than 12mm, but as soon as you were talking about changing from 3/4" to 5/8", I had to stop and think about the fractions because I have no practice of using inch fractions beyond quarter. And when folks on TH-cam start talking about 32nds of an inch, I have no idea how small that is, and then find myself in my calculator dividing 25.4 by 32 to get a value in mm. It's a funny old world
@@RexKrueger love it. Off topic: I have a complete set of Chinese planes. I’ve seen you use them often. If you know of someone who needs a set let me know. I’d like to donate to a deserving new woodworker.
The Moravian stool design is by far one of my favorites. I recently finished a set of bar stools based on this design, and they're tough as nails. Between the wedged through tennon, sliding dovetail battens, and morticed stretchers, it's just stupidly strong.
@Vanessa Kitty it's definitely worth it. I'd be sure to have stretchers between the lower portion of the legs at bar height, though. In my experience, the legs start to flex a bit once they get longer than 30".
So nice again. I will never build a Moravian Stool, but your techniques and thoughts will still inform me. This is a good example of how humans should behave. Cheers from a musical instrument maker in Vienna, Scott
This is so ingenious. I think the value of most of your builds is in the light you shine on otherwise unknown (to me at least) woodworking technology. I love this!
The well-splayed octagonal top-tapered legs are often found in Welsh stick chairs too, as parts were often shaved rather than turned, unlike the traditional Windsor. Interesting that you found an example from a Central European tradition.
My grandma's grandma used a small stepstool like this while milking a cow some 100 years ago. I made another one from a 115 years old piece of spruce firewood. This kind of stool has a very clever design. It can last another 100 years. Thanks for a detailed video.
I do the handhold first, but I also learned the hardway to remember it. I use a coping saw to cut the outline between drill holes and a rasp to do the main finish shaping. It isn't a Moravian design, but that handle is useful in most low stools.
The good thing about it is the dovetail dado adds thickness to the bench without making it looks heavy. By just looking at it I immediately want to add stretchers both way for my 90kg rump, but I know the thickness of bench and dado combined could handle the spreading of the legs. Great works as always Rex!
The irony is that the stool with the wider tapered end at the bottom may look more substantial, but it's significantly less sturdy than the other way around.
Great video. Mirroring the compound angle via the use of a bevel gauge is such a trippy thing I never really feel like I'm going to pull it off but sure enough my eyeballs figure it out. I'm going to give most of the credit to the bit and brace length.
most excellent video, rex; thank you...! in the background i noticed a big pipe and thought, rex should get an artist to paint the pipe to look like a giant ship's auger bit... 😁👍
I love sliding dovetail as a stablizer for solid panels. I have a radial drill, and its head can rotate, which will make the angled mortise drilling easier.
Very nice stool. Yes, it would have been easier to cut the hand hold before doing the legs. I also like the sliding dovetail. I used it on two baby cradles I built a while back. I also have a nice tapering jig for use with my table saw. Excellent design. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Impressive that you are showcasing the sliding dovetail Rex. A few years ago I tested my talents and started making my outdoor table sets with sliding dovetails. It really is a genious way of building. Right now as you post this great instructional video, I am currently building the first of three garden/planter boxes using only sliding dovetails. The boxes are 5'(w) x 3'(T) x 16'(L). Once you start applying using just wood joinery in your projects, you just may never go back to using nails or screws. I also use Draw board joinery on my table sets on the tressles and stringers, Perhaps you can showcase that type of joinery?
I would have thought the mortices were only in the dovetail, leaving a solid top. You might need a thicker piece for the dovetail if you did it that way though.
I love sliding dovetails and this stool seems like the best test project! I also almost thought your shave horse had a back rest because of the pallet testing against the wall behind you hahah
Always wondered how legs like that were angled and made symmetrical. I guess you could prop the corner of the seat under a 15degree wedge and drill press the hole once you've started it flat give yourself a hole starting guide
This is great! @Rex, just my education, why did you wedged the legs in the stool top? That would prevent expansion, which is the point of the dovetail pieces. Why not make those beefier enough to accept the wedged legs?
Thanks for the reply, but the question was why not use the dovetail pieces to do that? Wedging the legs that way has the penalty of limiting wood movement of the stool seat. Nevertheless, I appreciate your teaching style and the fact that you are bring to our attention a method that is unique
Ah, now I get the question. Sorry. You can use just the battens for the legs, but then the battens have to be much thicker, which messes up the whole point of using thin boards. Also, these rarely split, so there's basically no downside to sending them all the way thru. Thanks for taking the time to explain your question again.
Little tricky, but interessing way to build stole. But why making dovetail assembly when legs will pass through all the seat? Ils this only to prevent the seat from timing?
Rex, I enjoy your videos (and book!) but I've noticed that lately the sync between sound and video is out. I find it disturbing to watch (my grey matter is intolerant to it) so I wonder - with your incredible talent with timber - if you could make yourself a Clapper Board out of some scraps and maybe help to sync the audio track. Maybe that would make a good subject for a video, too!
Thanks Rex. I made a 10 degree jig not that long ago (about 1:6) for sliding dovetails and then 90 degrees on the other side. That way it has a dual use. The sliding dovetail side is obvious. The other allows me to chop to the baselines easily after coping/fretting out the waste of dovetails (trick I learned from Laura Mays). In order for the scribing to work, does the bench also need to be level with the floor? I can't quite tell in my head if that is needed. I know the surface of my bench is flat and twist free.
Yes, it would need to be level. Imagine just two legs, the left one is 1 inch shorter than the right. You would put a 1 inch spacer underneath the left leg to bring it level. If you have a block set at 2 inches to scribe the legs, then you will correctly chop 1 inch off the left leg and 2 from the non-wedged right leg. If the bench is not level, skewed by 0.5 inch downward at the left leg then you'd need a 1.5 inch wedge under the left leg to make the seat level. Thus when you scribe the legs then, you'd be taking only 0.5 inches from wedged left leg, leaving a 0.5 inch discrepancy when you stand on the floor. Hope that explains it (and I hope I'm right!).
Also, I should add, don't try to level your bench if it isn't already. Just use a flat piece of ply or MDF and shim that until level on top of your bench. It'll save a lot of effort. It's not a requirement in normal use to have a perfectly level bench.
There seems to be an error in your plans, Rex. You say "Drill into that center-mark a 1⅛ " (43mm) dirll bit". Whilst we spell it "centre" in England, 43mm is more like 1¾". (1⅛ " is nearer to 28mm). So I am left wondering which is correct.
I might be dumb but I don't understand what is the purpose of the sliding joint, why not just insert the legs into the top plank? Is it just esthetics?
As he mentioned, the sliding dovetail construction allows one to use thinner pieces of material while providing a great deal of strength in the finished piece that you wouldn’t otherwise have in using such thin planks.
I`m sorry but I don`t get it. Why use sliding dovetail when legs are drilled and secured to both pieces. I could see glued into slide only then it would be easy to tear down and transport.
Way better than a rivertable
I'm so tired of those. Just the abundant use of epoxy really. Like obviously do what you wanna do, I'm just voicing my personal opinion on them. I have to put that disclaimer cause we all know how "they" can be lmfao
Yes!! So many slab tables and live edge everything. When did bolting legs to a slab become the standard?
@connorhart7597 Everyone's taste is their own, and I'm glad people are making things with their hands. That being said: river tables are the CrossFit of fine woodworking and I want the style to die a quick, complete death.
@@evanlane1690 holy shit dude couldn't have said it better myself. It belongs where green and red carpet went to.
I thought I was the only guy who felt that way
I am a beginner to woodwork, the main test I have with this bundle th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt is that I think that its hard to settle on a choice of the plan and outline to use as there are a large portion of them there. Nonetheless, I like the simple stride to step directions laid out there.
I live in the center of Moravia and had no idea there was a woodworking design from here known around the world. That's pretty cool!
Just watching it at home in the middle of Southern Moraivia 🍇
There are lots of excellent woodworking content creators. But when Rex is in form there's no one better.
As someone who lives in a weird hybrid land where we use a mix of metric and imperial measurements, I really appreciate you using both systems in your videos, but they do highlight how weird my brain is with measurements.
I've been making a conscious effort to train myself more on metric - I've stopped weighing myself in stones and use kg instead, and as my kids have grown, I've only ever used cm to check their heights.
But, a few years back, I worked in a shop that did packing and shipping and when reshaping cardboard boxes (to fit pictures frames etc) I tended to use inches for the simple reason that "The numbers are smaller so the arithmetic is easier" and this has bled into some aspects of my woodworking, but not others. Half-inch plywood is easier to visualise than 12mm, but as soon as you were talking about changing from 3/4" to 5/8", I had to stop and think about the fractions because I have no practice of using inch fractions beyond quarter. And when folks on TH-cam start talking about 32nds of an inch, I have no idea how small that is, and then find myself in my calculator dividing 25.4 by 32 to get a value in mm.
It's a funny old world
Great video Rex! I appreciate that you don’t do epoxy river tables.
I think the cleanup part before final fitting is what my work has been missing to make it look professional rather then amateur.
I'm right there with you. My work is not pro yet. More attention to details.
@@RexKrueger love it. Off topic: I have a complete set of Chinese planes. I’ve seen you use them often. If you know of someone who needs a set let me know. I’d like to donate to a deserving new woodworker.
The Moravian stool design is by far one of my favorites. I recently finished a set of bar stools based on this design, and they're tough as nails. Between the wedged through tennon, sliding dovetail battens, and morticed stretchers, it's just stupidly strong.
I have been thinking this design at the bar height.
@Vanessa Kitty it's definitely worth it. I'd be sure to have stretchers between the lower portion of the legs at bar height, though. In my experience, the legs start to flex a bit once they get longer than 30".
So nice again. I will never build a Moravian Stool, but your techniques and thoughts will still inform me. This is a good example of how humans should behave.
Cheers from a musical instrument maker in Vienna, Scott
Thanks for designing it around 3/4" stock instead of requiring 8/4 or other, harder to acquire material.
Just became a Patron on Patreon. Thanks for your excellent and honest videos.
Great video. I used to see this type of chair all through my childhood. Guess what. I spent my entire childhood in Moravia. Thank you!
This is so ingenious. I think the value of most of your builds is in the light you shine on otherwise unknown (to me at least) woodworking technology. I love this!
I'm from Moravia and I approve this stool :). Have old one just like this at home. Good job Rex
So appreciate the ingeniously simple but sound techniques you demonstrate - eg, your approach here to tapering down the legs. Well done again, Rex!
The well-splayed octagonal top-tapered legs are often found in Welsh stick chairs too, as parts were often shaved rather than turned, unlike the traditional Windsor. Interesting that you found an example from a Central European tradition.
I also really like the look of tapered legs with the wide end at the floor. I’m pretty sure that Schwarz-style stick chairs are in my future.
I made the Shwarz three-legged stool with legs in this style, it really worked well and made the build way simpler :)
My grandma's grandma used a small stepstool like this while milking a cow some 100 years ago. I made another one from a 115 years old piece of spruce firewood. This kind of stool has a very clever design. It can last another 100 years. Thanks for a detailed video.
Thank You! Your content connects the beauty I see with the techniques, tools and history. It’s so appreciated!
Sliding dovetails are so cool! Always appreciate your great instruction. Thank you
I do the handhold first, but I also learned the hardway to remember it. I use a coping saw to cut the outline between drill holes and a rasp to do the main finish shaping. It isn't a Moravian design, but that handle is useful in most low stools.
The good thing about it is the dovetail dado adds thickness to the bench without making it looks heavy. By just looking at it I immediately want to add stretchers both way for my 90kg rump, but I know the thickness of bench and dado combined could handle the spreading of the legs. Great works as always Rex!
The irony is that the stool with the wider tapered end at the bottom may look more substantial, but it's significantly less sturdy than the other way around.
Now that's a really kuul project, done by a really kuul woodworker and a kuuler teacher!
Blessings y'all
Crawford out 🙏🔥⚒️🧙🏼♂️
Nice design. I love sliding dovetails in furniture.
Great video. Mirroring the compound angle via the use of a bevel gauge is such a trippy thing I never really feel like I'm going to pull it off but sure enough my eyeballs figure it out. I'm going to give most of the credit to the bit and brace length.
most excellent video, rex; thank you...! in the background i noticed a big pipe and thought, rex should get an artist to paint the pipe to look like a giant ship's auger bit... 😁👍
Recently I built the stool you made from common construction lumber. Used hand tools that belonged to my wife’s grandfather.
love that stool, with different dimensions, it could be a simple elegant table. i'll add it to my shortlist of "next projects"!
I love sliding dovetail as a stablizer for solid panels.
I have a radial drill, and its head can rotate, which will make the angled mortise drilling easier.
I love your passion over this stuff it is very motivating to me when I am in a slump! Thanks
Very nice stool. Yes, it would have been easier to cut the hand hold before doing the legs. I also like the sliding dovetail. I used it on two baby cradles I built a while back. I also have a nice tapering jig for use with my table saw. Excellent design. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Nice video and product. All the best from South Moravia😉
Cool! Glad I mentioned the style a while back here. You got it done! I have enjoyed your book.
Love this project. A very cool, well, stool. I think it's an under appreciated style and I may try to get this built. Thanks for sharing.
Great video Rex. And thank you for the tip on the guide for getting the angle on the dovetail.
Impressive that you are showcasing the sliding dovetail Rex. A few years ago I tested my talents and started making my outdoor table sets with sliding dovetails. It really is a genious way of building. Right now as you post this great instructional video, I am currently building the first of three garden/planter boxes using only sliding dovetails. The boxes are 5'(w) x 3'(T) x 16'(L). Once you start applying using just wood joinery in your projects, you just may never go back to using nails or screws. I also use Draw board joinery on my table sets on the tressles and stringers, Perhaps you can showcase that type of joinery?
Beautiful work, Rex! It really looks amazing! 😃
Thanks a bunch for all the tips!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I would have thought the mortices were only in the dovetail, leaving a solid top. You might need a thicker piece for the dovetail if you did it that way though.
Hmm... I'll have to give this a try some time.
I love sliding dovetails and this stool seems like the best test project! I also almost thought your shave horse had a back rest because of the pallet testing against the wall behind you hahah
Very cool stuff. I always enjoy your videos
Beautiful stool, Rex
Great work on the shop, audio has come along way when compared to your first video.
Also, enjoyed the video!
Love your leg method!
Thumbs up for a great build.
Always wondered how legs like that were angled and made symmetrical. I guess you could prop the corner of the seat under a 15degree wedge and drill press the hole once you've started it flat give yourself a hole starting guide
1.7k views in an hour! You'll get a million in three weeks👏👏
That's a good project ! Thank you !
Great build!
Again exceptional !
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Excellent, Rex!
Well done Rex
This is great! @Rex, just my education, why did you wedged the legs in the stool top? That would prevent expansion, which is the point of the dovetail pieces. Why not make those beefier enough to accept the wedged legs?
Wedging the legs keeps them from falling out. With a straight tenon, they need wedges.
Thanks for the reply, but the question was why not use the dovetail pieces to do that? Wedging the legs that way has the penalty of limiting wood movement of the stool seat. Nevertheless, I appreciate your teaching style and the fact that you are bring to our attention a method that is unique
Ah, now I get the question. Sorry. You can use just the battens for the legs, but then the battens have to be much thicker, which messes up the whole point of using thin boards. Also, these rarely split, so there's basically no downside to sending them all the way thru. Thanks for taking the time to explain your question again.
Nice job!
Little tricky, but interessing way to build stole.
But why making dovetail assembly when legs will pass through all the seat? Ils this only to prevent the seat from timing?
How does this make the chair stronger? Is it because the batons add thickness? Is it the perpendicular grain directions? What is it?
Yup. Perpendicular construction WITH the legs staked all the way through. Crazy strong.
Nice project! Keep up the good work!
Great new project! Link to Peter's channel?
I challenge you Rex. Can you put a square peg in a round hole?
you should have bought the godrilla extension from lost art press!😉
My eyes! My eyes! Not only did you show electric tools, you USED them in the video....Aaaagggghhhh. Lol, carry on. Another great one!
Finally time
Great video!! Do you have the link to Peter's account as well? I didn't see it in the description
I like it! Nice
What’s the point in the sliding dovetailing your fixing the legs via a wedge all the way through the seat?
Rex, I enjoy your videos (and book!) but I've noticed that lately the sync between sound and video is out. I find it disturbing to watch (my grey matter is intolerant to it) so I wonder - with your incredible talent with timber - if you could make yourself a Clapper Board out of some scraps and maybe help to sync the audio track. Maybe that would make a good subject for a video, too!
I actualy used the sliding dovetail in my shaving horse builde
Seems like if you start with 3/4 inch stock to laminate legs you are 1/8 inch short to end up at 1 5/8 inch.
Looks like one inch stock.
Thanks Rex. I made a 10 degree jig not that long ago (about 1:6) for sliding dovetails and then 90 degrees on the other side. That way it has a dual use. The sliding dovetail side is obvious. The other allows me to chop to the baselines easily after coping/fretting out the waste of dovetails (trick I learned from Laura Mays).
In order for the scribing to work, does the bench also need to be level with the floor? I can't quite tell in my head if that is needed. I know the surface of my bench is flat and twist free.
Yes, it would need to be level. Imagine just two legs, the left one is 1 inch shorter than the right. You would put a 1 inch spacer underneath the left leg to bring it level. If you have a block set at 2 inches to scribe the legs, then you will correctly chop 1 inch off the left leg and 2 from the non-wedged right leg. If the bench is not level, skewed by 0.5 inch downward at the left leg then you'd need a 1.5 inch wedge under the left leg to make the seat level. Thus when you scribe the legs then, you'd be taking only 0.5 inches from wedged left leg, leaving a 0.5 inch discrepancy when you stand on the floor.
Hope that explains it (and I hope I'm right!).
Also, I should add, don't try to level your bench if it isn't already. Just use a flat piece of ply or MDF and shim that until level on top of your bench. It'll save a lot of effort. It's not a requirement in normal use to have a perfectly level bench.
Im a little confused what the point of the dovetails are if the tennons still come out the top
I cannot see why the legs locking the dovetail blocks to the seat does not restrain the seat causing it to split during wood movement. ?.?
Sometimes they do. Not often, but it happens.
the Moravian stool plan purchase link in the description is not working: it's missing the "-1" at the end of the URL
thanks
There seems to be an error in your plans, Rex.
You say "Drill into that center-mark a 1⅛ " (43mm) dirll bit".
Whilst we spell it "centre" in England, 43mm is more like 1¾". (1⅛ " is nearer to 28mm).
So I am left wondering which is correct.
1 1/8 is correct!
Who else thinks that the guy who first made this stool just put the legs on the wrong way around.. 😂
Rex you have a sawstop you don’t use???
I might be dumb but I don't understand what is the purpose of the sliding joint, why not just insert the legs into the top plank? Is it just esthetics?
As he mentioned, the sliding dovetail construction allows one to use thinner pieces of material while providing a great deal of strength in the finished piece that you wouldn’t otherwise have in using such thin planks.
Would we want to make slots instead of holes in the seat board for the legs to account for expansion?
what's the point of the sliding dovetail if everything is glued and pinned into place
I used to subscribe to you then I got tired of how it seemed all you did was sell. After watching this video am going to subscribe again
I'm pretty sure 2 pieces of 3/4" stock glued together won't make 1-5/8". What am I missing here?
My stock was from a sawmill and was a tiny bit over. Use 3/4 stock. You'll never miss the 1/8.
Link for stool said it could not be found. Could not find the stool in the store. Am I doing something wrong?
Merci !!
I am from sout moravia and I did not see this type of stool never.
I`m sorry but I don`t get it. Why use sliding dovetail when legs are drilled and secured to both pieces. I could see glued into slide only then it would be easy to tear down and transport.
what is the purpose of the dove tail?
What happened to the good mic quality?
whats up with the audio? it sounds a bit fried
Which plane stop is that on the bench?
That's the new one from my company, Compass Rose Tools . It will be ready next month.
Another reupload?
Nope. No idea why you would think that... unless you didn't actually watch the video.
@@RexKrueger because that's 3rd or 4th video about the same stool
But this is the video where I actually built it. It's in 2 parts. The other video was about practice. No reuploads here.
Definitely different videos. There were also several posts on Instagram with this. Go back and review the videos...
👍⭐️⭐️⭐️👏
Followed you on Instagram.