That is very interesting. Never would have thought it would peel of that easy and the bare metal underneath. I have used the RaptorLiner on a few things. It looks very similar to professional bed liners. It doesn't have the strength of those pro liners, but you can fix it yourself and won't cost you near what the pro liners cost. Sometimes you can just spin the spray tip and it will start working again. If you can take them off, soak them in thinner. Then blow air the opposite direction through the tip. I haven't used any of Eastwoods spray cans, but I have used some of their primers.
Yeah, the whole thing pisses me off. I blame myself. It was my pride. I shoulda ran with the Rustoleum paint job until I had the garage I have now. At the time I don’t know if I knew about Raptor Liner. I had done Durabak on my S10, though, and it leave some to be desired. I was just astounded that they didn’t do anything to seal the metal. It was crazy how it peeled off, but that’s because they relied on a mechanical bond only. Absolute stupidity. Now I simply need to find time to peel the rest of the truck and epoxy prime the steel. The clog wasn’t the nozzle. It was in the can, I switched nozzles.
Hey man, love your videos, always very informative and to the point. Im also a DIY guy, currently have 3 OBS trucks, and have painted many parts on them over the years. One trick that i like to use is simply swapping out the nozzle from a different can or if that doesn't work i try cleaning the nozzles with tooth picks, needles, saftey pins, really just anything i can find. A third option is you may try cleaning it with some paint thinner or even blowing it out the the ole air gun. Just some suggestions. Im curious to see if you try any of that haha.
I do try not to become overly verbose in my videos. I don’t know that I’ve seen a vid where they remove Linex or other bedliners. Except maybe one Linex did to show how tough their product is. Yeah, I may go back to that can with some xylene….it’s what I have. I’m hoping the Epoxy primer seals the metal like I need it to. There was certainly enough mechanical bite given what they did to the door.
@Rocky Mtn Redneck Yes, I know what you mean. I actually have Rhino Liner in the bed of my 98. Looks to be nearly as old as the truck but is still in considerably good condition. I once called my local LineX shop and asked them how they would go about removing it, and they basically told me that they can't and wouldn't even try. Now, I know that these are two different products, but they essentially do the same thing. I can tell you tho that just in the very few spots that it is pealing or chipping, there is still paint and primer under it. So, in other words, it was not sprayed directly on the metal bed. I believe that is actually a better method, in my opinion.
@@skywalker3084 my 94 S10 I did Durabak, a polyurethane DIY liner, back in 2005. I’ve recoated it a few times over the years. I prepped that by scuffing the factory paint. I’ve tried peeling it in a couple small spots just to see. It does not come up easy. I should try my “power scraper.” Thing with Durabak is it does fade over time, but you can clean it up and recoat it. It bonds to itself. Linex does not. It’s been fun learning about these different products through usage.
Where I live the Line-X folks rough sand the paint (not through it as primer acts like a water sponge), use some sort of degreaser on the paint, and then spray on the Line-X.
That would be normal, yes. Trouble is my truck’s paint had delaminated from the primer; a problem common with GM and Toyota white. It is kinda shocking that they simply sanded off the factory primer. Hind sight 20-20, I wish I woulda just stuck with my Rustoeum paint job.
I can see the issue right there (awesome truck otherwise BTW, wish my RCSB K1500 was as nice and as kitted), but man, yup, it should've been sealed prior to coated, no idea why they didn't prime the entire truck before using Linex ..... personally, I'd think that's grounds for something from them, otherwise, a lawsuit from you.
Yeah, learned my lesson the hard way. Shoulda left the truck in Rustoleum until I could do it my self. Linex is an awesome material. It just didn’t work out the way I wanted it to. Need something different.
The rust? Yeah, I’m certain it is. I have at least three other spots I know are and I’m betting every single window sill. Seriously pisses me off. This is why I really don’t like letting others work on my truck.
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That is very interesting. Never would have thought it would peel of that easy and the bare metal underneath. I have used the RaptorLiner on a few things. It looks very similar to professional bed liners. It doesn't have the strength of those pro liners, but you can fix it yourself and won't cost you near what the pro liners cost. Sometimes you can just spin the spray tip and it will start working again. If you can take them off, soak them in thinner. Then blow air the opposite direction through the tip. I haven't used any of Eastwoods spray cans, but I have used some of their primers.
Yeah, the whole thing pisses me off. I blame myself. It was my pride. I shoulda ran with the Rustoleum paint job until I had the garage I have now. At the time I don’t know if I knew about Raptor Liner. I had done Durabak on my S10, though, and it leave some to be desired. I was just astounded that they didn’t do anything to seal the metal. It was crazy how it peeled off, but that’s because they relied on a mechanical bond only. Absolute stupidity. Now I simply need to find time to peel the rest of the truck and epoxy prime the steel. The clog wasn’t the nozzle. It was in the can, I switched nozzles.
Hey man, love your videos, always very informative and to the point. Im also a DIY guy, currently have 3 OBS trucks, and have painted many parts on them over the years. One trick that i like to use is simply swapping out the nozzle from a different can or if that doesn't work i try cleaning the nozzles with tooth picks, needles, saftey pins, really just anything i can find. A third option is you may try cleaning it with some paint thinner or even blowing it out the the ole air gun. Just some suggestions. Im curious to see if you try any of that haha.
I do try not to become overly verbose in my videos. I don’t know that I’ve seen a vid where they remove Linex or other bedliners. Except maybe one Linex did to show how tough their product is. Yeah, I may go back to that can with some xylene….it’s what I have. I’m hoping the Epoxy primer seals the metal like I need it to. There was certainly enough mechanical bite given what they did to the door.
@Rocky Mtn Redneck Yes, I know what you mean. I actually have Rhino Liner in the bed of my 98. Looks to be nearly as old as the truck but is still in considerably good condition. I once called my local LineX shop and asked them how they would go about removing it, and they basically told me that they can't and wouldn't even try. Now, I know that these are two different products, but they essentially do the same thing. I can tell you tho that just in the very few spots that it is pealing or chipping, there is still paint and primer under it. So, in other words, it was not sprayed directly on the metal bed. I believe that is actually a better method, in my opinion.
@@skywalker3084 my 94 S10 I did Durabak, a polyurethane DIY liner, back in 2005. I’ve recoated it a few times over the years. I prepped that by scuffing the factory paint. I’ve tried peeling it in a couple small spots just to see. It does not come up easy. I should try my “power scraper.” Thing with Durabak is it does fade over time, but you can clean it up and recoat it. It bonds to itself. Linex does not. It’s been fun learning about these different products through usage.
Where I live the Line-X folks rough sand the paint (not through it as primer acts like a water sponge), use some sort of degreaser on the paint, and then spray on the Line-X.
That would be normal, yes. Trouble is my truck’s paint had delaminated from the primer; a problem common with GM and Toyota white. It is kinda shocking that they simply sanded off the factory primer. Hind sight 20-20, I wish I woulda just stuck with my Rustoeum paint job.
Big Doug here 😁
That really sucks. You think they would have used an epoxy primer at least….
Yeah, it baffles me how on earth they thought this would be okay.
@@rockymtnredneck4888 I bet their other customers are experiencing the same issue too.
I can see the issue right there (awesome truck otherwise BTW, wish my RCSB K1500 was as nice and as kitted), but man, yup, it should've been sealed prior to coated, no idea why they didn't prime the entire truck before using Linex ..... personally, I'd think that's grounds for something from them, otherwise, a lawsuit from you.
Linex is not supposed to be sprayed directly on to bare metal… that’s why it’s rusting. Primer the surface first. Trust me. Been there, done that
I don’t have to trust you. These are truths we hold to be self-evident. They screwed me when they did it this way.
If you want anything done right you have to do it your self. It’s sad but true.
More and more these days.
That sucks, so bad!
Yeah, learned my lesson the hard way. Shoulda left the truck in Rustoleum until I could do it my self. Linex is an awesome material. It just didn’t work out the way I wanted it to. Need something different.
Prep is everything, and that was not the correct way.
Nope, that was failure to prep.
Nice burb I bet it's like that all over.
The rust? Yeah, I’m certain it is. I have at least three other spots I know are and I’m betting every single window sill. Seriously pisses me off. This is why I really don’t like letting others work on my truck.
@@rockymtnredneck4888 good luck with it i got a simliar 93 just did a solid axel swap you'd like it. i should do a vid.