Just wanted to leave a comment saying thank you and i appreciate what you do! Your videos have helped me upgrade my GBA screen, shell, and battery my gameboy color screen and led quick solder board and helped me put together my gameboy macro!
I used a CR1616 in my EZ-Flash Omega a couple of years ago. I just positioned the correct way, then soldered the negative tab to the pad and ran a jumper 20 gauge wire to the positive tab and it's still running almost 2 years later. Using a CR2025 or 2032 would be sick, but dang would it be hard to get it to fit in there. Using a tabbed CR1616 actually allowed me to get it within the dimensions of the original casing without having to cut anything as well, so it would fit into the DSLite shell for the EZ-Flash Omega as well. I've been recommending people change out these crappy CR1220s with this type of mod for a while, the batteries they come with stock drain WAY too fast and there isn't a reliable source for replacements.
Good timing! I've got one of these EZFlash Omegas coming to me in the mail soon, and I had been wandering about that battery. Thanks for giving me my answer!
Other than playing Drill Dozer, this is one thing that makes me glad to have shelled out for the DE where it just pops out of a holder, I never even knew the regular omega still had the battery soldered in there. I have an old EZF V that had the same weird type of tabbed battery but I never tried replacing it. I do kinda wonder if they couldn't have used a more standard size, but I dunno.
Space was always going to be unreasonably tight with the form factor they chose (half height AGB). It's extremely difficult to fit a socket in something this size for any (more) standard sized battery.
@@HighPower64 This same concept would work but you'd have to use something like a CR1616 holder that would be small enough to fit and run jumper wires. Could also glue the holder to the casing, since it wouldn't technically need to be removed to hold the battery into place.
I guess things have changed in the year since you posted this vid but there is a couple suitable batteries you can use from Digikey. Part Numbers for the two I found: 1908-CR1220V2-ND CR-1220/FCN Personally would recommend CR-1220/FCN as it's the cheaper option. In either case you'll have to change the tab bend orientations as positive terminal on both these have it's tab laid flat (so it seems these versions of the battery were intended to have positive side facing the PCB). But with both EZ Flash 3in1 and Omega it's the other way around. Better then not having tabs though I suppose. :P
might try this (if i ever find where to get one), interrupted my omega update by mistake and i don't know if the battery is dead (after 4 years or so)or rtc function broken know
Well if it works enough to boot, you should redo the update. Or better yet, install the current firmware since there's been updates in the last four years. But yes, your battery is probably dead if it's an early model or if you otherwise just won (lost?) the lottery.
you should totally check out the eXtremerate DS lite housing. it's heaps better than the other aftermarket shells and comes in some cool new colors like atomic purple.
My omega refuses to work with RTC in emerald ruby and Sapphire, it keeps time fine but sometimes, a lot of time it'll tell me the RTC battery is dry. I know it isn't I've tested it, you think a fresh battery would fix it? Or do I just have a dud unit
without any knowledge of this cards function (do they charge the battery while using them?), you maby could also try LiR instead of CR, they are 'official' rechargeable. because of the environment and so on. 😅
They definitely do not charge the cells while in use. You lose a lot of capacity by switching to a rechargeable cell and these are already very low capacity. Not to mention the additional area needed on the PCB for charge circuitry. Unfortunately, there isn't really a good solution for something like this other than to just replace the battery every few years when it dips below usable voltage. At least, nothing with current technology.
The issue is it's a CR2020 which from what I can tell aren't easily findable on either, also generally ordering from those is bad because they could have lost voltage vs. electronics suppliers where you know their inventory is pretty much guaranteed to be in spec. Now I've never had an issue with coin cell batteries off ebay that I got in the past for non-solder things but I have noted many of them don't last as long as some from say mouser. The tabs on this one are also both on the same side which is harder to find in my experience. While you could bend one of them or worst case run a wire from the tab to the other side, it'd just be way too much of a mess for me.
@@miyakogfl I thought it was a cr1212, in saying that you can convert to coin style battery and install a battery cradle for that style battery and add wires to it.
like perhaps the one I already linked to in the description? oh and the tabs are spot welded, not soldered. Never solder directly to a battery. Best case scenario, the heat kills it. Worst case, they explode.
@@makho i would just convert it and buy the proper battery holder/cradle for it and solder the wires to the holder/cradle, then try and alter the battery itself.
There is very little room internally and battery holders take up a lot more space than welded tabs. If you want to get into retrogaming hardware, I highly recommend taking the time to pick up some soldering skills or getting used to the idea of paying someone else to do your soldering.
Just wanted to leave a comment saying thank you and i appreciate what you do!
Your videos have helped me upgrade my GBA screen, shell, and battery
my gameboy color screen and led quick solder board
and helped me put together my gameboy macro!
I used a CR1616 in my EZ-Flash Omega a couple of years ago. I just positioned the correct way, then soldered the negative tab to the pad and ran a jumper 20 gauge wire to the positive tab and it's still running almost 2 years later. Using a CR2025 or 2032 would be sick, but dang would it be hard to get it to fit in there.
Using a tabbed CR1616 actually allowed me to get it within the dimensions of the original casing without having to cut anything as well, so it would fit into the DSLite shell for the EZ-Flash Omega as well. I've been recommending people change out these crappy CR1220s with this type of mod for a while, the batteries they come with stock drain WAY too fast and there isn't a reliable source for replacements.
Good timing! I've got one of these EZFlash Omegas coming to me in the mail soon, and I had been wandering about that battery. Thanks for giving me my answer!
Other than playing Drill Dozer, this is one thing that makes me glad to have shelled out for the DE where it just pops out of a holder, I never even knew the regular omega still had the battery soldered in there. I have an old EZF V that had the same weird type of tabbed battery but I never tried replacing it. I do kinda wonder if they couldn't have used a more standard size, but I dunno.
Space was always going to be unreasonably tight with the form factor they chose (half height AGB). It's extremely difficult to fit a socket in something this size for any (more) standard sized battery.
Thats a nice idea. Better than a drained or no battery at all for sure! 👍
Would you be able to fit a battery holder in there and maybe use a smaller battery?
No. Battery holders are big. There is no way to fit one without using an even smaller battery.
It would be cool if there’s a battery holder for the EZFlash Omega.
There probably isn’t enough space on the board
@@HighPower64 This same concept would work but you'd have to use something like a CR1616 holder that would be small enough to fit and run jumper wires. Could also glue the holder to the casing, since it wouldn't technically need to be removed to hold the battery into place.
@@husky3g I don't see one that would come close to fitting. If you find one let me know!
There is one on the EZ Flash Omega Definitive Edition 😎🤘
@@the_dpad_dadthat takes a 1025.. I thought the objective was to get a holder for a larger cell not smaller 😂
"I should have tested this beforehand." A true scientist. 😂
I guess things have changed in the year since you posted this vid but there is a couple suitable batteries you can use from Digikey.
Part Numbers for the two I found:
1908-CR1220V2-ND
CR-1220/FCN
Personally would recommend CR-1220/FCN as it's the cheaper option. In either case you'll have to change the tab bend orientations as positive terminal on both these have it's tab laid flat (so it seems these versions of the battery were intended to have positive side facing the PCB).
But with both EZ Flash 3in1 and Omega it's the other way around.
Better then not having tabs though I suppose. :P
My old G6 finally had its battery poop out. Bought the thing all the way back in 2007. lol
Fun video. Also funny cat noises in the background :)
How do you add that microSD card working light indicator to EZO flash cart? I think that is a very importanat feature which EZO is missing for it.
th-cam.com/video/SsPOobvoBe8/w-d-xo.html
might try this (if i ever find where to get one), interrupted my omega update by mistake and i don't know if the battery is dead (after 4 years or so)or rtc function broken know
Well if it works enough to boot, you should redo the update. Or better yet, install the current firmware since there's been updates in the last four years.
But yes, your battery is probably dead if it's an early model or if you otherwise just won (lost?) the lottery.
Wow, awesome GBA.
I have to solder?
For the Omega, yeah. Omega Definitive Edition has a battery holder.
you should totally check out the eXtremerate DS lite housing. it's heaps better than the other aftermarket shells and comes in some cool new colors like atomic purple.
My omega refuses to work with RTC in emerald ruby and Sapphire, it keeps time fine but sometimes, a lot of time it'll tell me the RTC battery is dry. I know it isn't I've tested it, you think a fresh battery would fix it? Or do I just have a dud unit
If the battery is not below 3v and the EZO is keeping time, replacing the battery will not change anything for your game.
i've got one of this flash cart and thanks for the info
i think the ezflash omega DE is the way to go from now on
without any knowledge of this cards function (do they charge the battery while using them?), you maby could also try LiR instead of CR, they are 'official' rechargeable.
because of the environment and so on. 😅
They definitely do not charge the cells while in use. You lose a lot of capacity by switching to a rechargeable cell and these are already very low capacity. Not to mention the additional area needed on the PCB for charge circuitry.
Unfortunately, there isn't really a good solution for something like this other than to just replace the battery every few years when it dips below usable voltage. At least, nothing with current technology.
@@makho oh, okay.. see i have no idea! you're the pro and i just thought! thanks for clarification!
@@makho The original battery included it's a LIR one.
Hey mate, the battery is called a tabbed battery with the legs soldered to it, ebay and aliexpress sell them.
The issue is it's a CR2020 which from what I can tell aren't easily findable on either, also generally ordering from those is bad because they could have lost voltage vs. electronics suppliers where you know their inventory is pretty much guaranteed to be in spec. Now I've never had an issue with coin cell batteries off ebay that I got in the past for non-solder things but I have noted many of them don't last as long as some from say mouser. The tabs on this one are also both on the same side which is harder to find in my experience. While you could bend one of them or worst case run a wire from the tab to the other side, it'd just be way too much of a mess for me.
@@miyakogfl I thought it was a cr1212, in saying that you can convert to coin style battery and install a battery cradle for that style battery and add wires to it.
like perhaps the one I already linked to in the description?
oh and the tabs are spot welded, not soldered. Never solder directly to a battery. Best case scenario, the heat kills it. Worst case, they explode.
@@makho i would just convert it and buy the proper battery holder/cradle for it and solder the wires to the holder/cradle, then try and alter the battery itself.
Feel free to do so. In fact, when you do, please share your method.
Why don't they use a more practical battery replacement system? Most people have zero soldering skills.
There is very little room internally and battery holders take up a lot more space than welded tabs. If you want to get into retrogaming hardware, I highly recommend taking the time to pick up some soldering skills or getting used to the idea of paying someone else to do your soldering.
I thought that battery was powered from the gameboy lol
Nope, just runs the clock circuitry. This is the only way to track the time when not being powered by the GB as the GB itself doesn't track time.